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Home , 700 BC, 7th century BC, Ashurnasirpal II, Buskin, Costume, Jewellery

Journal of Business Vol. 14, No. 3, pp.1~19(2010)

A study on the Assyrian

Kim Moonja Prof. Dept. & , Suwon University

Abstract

The Assyrians usually wore two types - the and the . These two types were worn alone, or in combination and changes were introduced by varying the proportions of the tunic or shawl. The tunic appeared to be of the sleeves are short and reaching to the ankles or shortened to knee length according to the rank. Assyrian shawl pattern can be divided into five distinct styless. Many of the styles were suitable for to wear in religious plays and pageants. Fringed were the trademark of forma1 Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was a long fringed shawl. Intermediate rank wore shawl with short fringes and lower grade wore no shawl at all. The costume was comparative uniformity : conical was regarded as Scythic in , short, fringed , wide belts or , round and long tunics covered in scales, belted at the . Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or was a plaid tunic and wide over it. They wore and horned and , ugal (head-) and the most were the drop and the cross shape and was made of the coloured stones and ended with heads of animal was regarded as Scythy style or adorned with a rosette at the centre.

Key Words : Assyrian, shawl, tunic. tassel, tiara

I. introduction We must notice that the Assyrian and arts were affected by the general status of the The Assyrian Empire began its career of Assyrian empire at any given time; as a rule, conquest c. 11OO B.C. and the characteristic they progressed in a parallel manner to the costume seems to have reached its full political and economical development of the development by that date, also the style . It is important to know that arts served survived practically unchanged until the the official needs of the Assyrian empire more overthrow of the Assyrians by the and than anything else. Excluding some minor arts, Persians. 1) in general they were not at service of the

Corresponding author; Kim Moonja, Tel.+82-31-220-2244 , Fax.+82-31-220-2535 E-mail:[email protected]

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individuals or the society. The rest were linked times in history. It was named for its original directly or indirectly to the royal pa1ace or the capital, the ancient city of . The term temple, particularly costumes and related items, can also refer to the geographic region major or minor. The elaborate study of the or heartland where these empires were centered. costume and their accessories provides the The Assyrian conquerors invented a new policy scholars with a clear idea about the daily towards the conquered: in order to prevent life at any given moment in history. The study of nationalist revolts by the conquered people, the the Assyrian costumes is no exception. The Assyrians would force the people they Assyrian murals and from the conquered to migrate in large numbers to other referenced period provided detailed accounts of areas of the empire. Besides guaranteeing the the social life in the Assyrian society then. 2) security of an empire built off of conquered Simplicity was always resorted to in depicting people of different and languages, fashion details, so that we tend to believe that these mass deportations of the populations in the original costumes were more complex than the Middle East, , and Armenia, displayed by the sculptor. It is difficult to know turned the region into a melting pot of diverse with exactitude what articles of clothing were cultures, , and languages. Whereas there worn in addition to outer garments-particularly would be little cultural contact between the those, which covered the shoulders, the limbs conquered and the conquerors in early and the breast. Another overlooked by Mesopotamian history, under the Assyrians the the Assyrian artist was the depiction of folds on entire area became a vast experiment in cultural dress. But there is no doubt that the Assyrian mixing. 4) costumes represent a development from those The Assyrians must have had great of . 3) organizational ability to have raised, equipped, The purpose of this study is reviewing and and maintained such large and efficient military researching the symbolic meaning and and governing forces. They left remains of vast classifying the types of the style of the Assyrian building projects at (Ashurnasirpal II, Costume. 883-859 B.C.), Khorsobad(Sargon II, 722-705 The method of this study is deals with the B.C.) and (, 705-681 B.C. characteristics of Assyrian Costume and divided and , 668-625 B.C.), whence came into the types according to the antique records the sculptures which are our source of and murals, reliefs, sculptures and tomb information about what they wore. 5) bequests. The characteristic Assyrian art form was narrative relief . Unlike the other southern Mesopotamian peoples, the Assyrians II. Historical background of had access to large quantities of stone, and Assyrian Costume their many carved reliefs have consequently survived . These shallow carvings were used Assyria was a civilization centered on the to decorate palaces, for example, the Palace of Upper Tigris river, in Mesopotamia (), that Ashurbanipal (7th B.C.). Its finely carved came to rule regional empires a number of reliefs include dramatic scenes of a hunt,

2 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

now in the , . Winged palaces and temples. Their magical strength was bulls with human faces, carved partially in the intended to frighten away evil demons. The round, stood as sentinels at the royal gateways figure of a man with wings may be the (Louvre, Paris). Many of the artistic wall reliefs creature called an apkallu in found by archaeologists show the king offering cuneiform texts. He wears a tasselled and a animals as sacrifices to Nergal, the sun God. fringed and embroidered . His curled This Mesopotamian god ruled the underworld moustache, and beard are typical of and was known as the deity of war and figures of this date. Across the body runs pestilence. 6) Ashurnasirpal's 'Standard Inscription', which The palace was excavated by A.H. Layard records some of the king's titles and (1846-51) and by many later archaeologists. achistaments and is repeated on many of his Stone panel was one of a group found, out of stone reliefs. The inscription was cut after the position, somewhere between the palace of King figure was carved, as some of the details of Sennacherib (reigned 704-681 B.C.) and the decoration on the dress have been chiselled Temple of Ishtar, the principal goddess of through. 8) Nineveh. The panels may have lined a bridge or The Royal Tombs of Nimrud were first corridor used by the king when visiting the discovered in April of 1989 by an expedition of temple. the Iraqi Department of Antiquities and Heritage. The scene shows the king and his entourage The Tomb was located in the North-West Palace in formal . The two figures on this of the Ancient city of Kalkhu (modern city of panel formed part of the king's bodyguard. The nimrud). The city of Kalkhu was a capital of the archer on the left is one of the lightly-armed Assyrian Empire for over 150 years until King soldiers who were probably drawn from the Sargon moved the capital to Dur-Sharukin Aramaic-speaking communities in and around (modern Khorshabad) in 717 B.C. The city is the Assyrian heartland, which the Assyrians had located 4 miles south-west of the Christian conquered. The Assyrians incorporated soldiers monastery of Mar Behnam. The first dig of this from all parts of the empire into their forces. ancient site was conducted by a British mission The -man on the right wears a over 150 years ago which uncovered many fastened by a with long ear-flaps, reliefs. Many Ancient Assyrian Tombs have been and a short kilt curving upwards above his found in the past, however the goods had all knees. His clothing tells us that he comes from been plundered and stolen. Two remaining around . 7) tombs exist; one in and one in its original The relief, carved on , was one of a location in the city of . The sarcophagus in pair which guarded an entrance into the private the tomb chamber contained hundreds of items apartments of Ashurnasirpal II, at his palace in including jewelry, vessels, ornaments, seals and Kalhu, the capital of Assyria. The protection of other goods. 9) the entrance to a building using magic was a long-standing tradition in Mesopotamia. Images of supernatural creatures were sometimes buried under doorways or set up at the entrances of

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III. The style of have the tunic worn alone without the shawl the Assyrian Costume draperies. The most common material for clothing was Both men and women wore the same , although had been known from an costume, but with variations. They, too, used and was often used for , which became known as “ better-quality garments. Cotton did not become Babylonian work.” These were brilliantly colored available until Sennacherib introduced it into fabrics; royalty trimmed their garments with Assyria in about 700 BC, from which time it was gold. 10) used for the making of cloth. Other materials The usual badge of rank worn by all higher sometimes used were leather and papyrus. The Court and State officials was a long fringed skins and furs of animals and metal were also shawl or shoulder shawl, the ends of which in use, but chiefly for military and 12) were wound round the person. While rank was costume. sometimes indicated by the amount of trimming Their had a sole of leather with heel on the full-length , it was sti11 more clearly straps or a heel cap, a for the large toe shown by the shawl. The richness of the and tied around the ankle. Soldier wore a material and the length(as well, perhaps, as the knee-high of leather laced from toe to colour of the fringes and the manner in which knee. were used as a protection the shawl was worn-plain or crossed) indicated against the sun, but were permitted only to the station of the wearer. For example a shawl persons of rank, the same being true of fans. 13) with long fringes worn crossed over the breast Both were carried by bearers. was the distinctive mark of the prime minister, or vizer. A double shawl with equally long 1. Men's costume fringes worn crossed indicated the master of The representations of costume which Assyrian ceremonies. The king's own personal attendant art has left us are almost entirely those of wore shawl with short fringes. Officials of sti11 men’s costume. The kings are shown wearing lower grade, 1ike the parasol-bearer, wore no tunics and shawls complete1y covered with shawl at all. 11) pattern, which many have been -woven The knee-length and full-length tunics with or embroidered. Assyrian court costume was short sleeves are the commonest worn passed through the belt with its daggers. 14) to different types of headdress. There were only The King’s hair was adorned with gold two types of garment generally found in the threads, no doubt arranged in a sort of net. representations of ancient Assyrian costume: Carefully groomed masses of curled hair and there were the shawl and tunic vary in size and beards give the Assyrians a heavy hirsute look. proportion, and are worn either alone, but more The men wore their hair and beards long, done generally in combination. The earliest type of in carefully arranged tight corkscrew mirk and costume is a rather elaborate shawl drapery are known to have powdered their hair with gold worn without any tunic underneath. Later comes dust. 15) the tunic with various-fringed shawl draperies worn in addition, and some of the latest types

4 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

1) Tunic with tassels, and, in keeping with the dignity of the wearers, the garments themselves were The tunic appears to be of cut; the trimmed and embroidered more or 1ess sleeves are short and the body of the garment elaborately. 18) is tubular, reaching to the ankles among the This richly embroidered tunic 19) is one upper class but shortened to knee length for royal Assyrian might have worn. The hem has a active military duty, hunting, and day labor. 16) decorative fringe and the tunic would have been The tunic is typical of Assyrian clothing of the pulled in at the waist with a wide and narrow ninth century B.C. and is quite similar to the belt. The neck opening is a slit but the neckline foundation Egyptian tunic. The national dress also has on the shoulder . both m Assyria was a tunic with short, tight Even the wore tunic, and, in addition sleeves, cut very like the Egyptian kalasiris- The to it, on ceremonial occasions he put on tunic length varied. This was the sole garment of the style , whose shape and trimming lower orders for both sexes. Some wore it with underwent many changes as time went on. and some without a . Even during the time In its earliest form this garment resembled the when the national prosperity was at its height shoulder- that was from primitive times the slaves of the nobles had no other dress worn by the nobles of the various peoples. It than this, and, in their case, it was only long consisted of a large, oblong piece of material of enough to reach to the knee. 17) varying co1our and pattern. This was either Men of the higher orders also wore this drawn forward under one arm and fastened on short-sleeved tunic, but with them it reached to the other shoulder with an c1asp, or openings the feet. Most of them wore trimmed were made in it for the head and one arm, and

tunic tunic style cloak tunic and tunic -Assyrian Costumes and -A History of Costume, style cloak Jewelry, p.52 p.70 -A History of costume, p.71

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it hung over both shoulders, being open of The excess fabric created in the Small Shawl course on one side. by b-e-f can be tucked in at the waistline. This As time went on these tunic style cloak is all covered by a wide leather belt, which is became richer and more elaborate. The edges held in position by a narrow leather contrast were trimmed with fringes and tassels. But the belt. only change of cut was that the shoulder parts Then tuck end b of the Large Shawl( 40" X were lengthened so as to reach the middle of 60") into the narrow belt on the left side the upper arm. To allow this to be done the of the waist. The edge a to b of the large shawl garment was made in two pieces and sewn is passed around the back towards the right together at the , a hole being left for the side of the waist, upwards towards the chest. It head . Both sides were now left open, then hangs down the back over the shoulder. instead of being open on1y at the armhole, and This completes the drapery of the costume. 23) the front and back pieces were held together with tapes sewn for this purpose to the inside (2) Style B of the garment. 20) is another representation of the Assyrian King Assurnasirpal. Over the long tunic 2) Shawl above right, the king would have worn a shawl Fringed shaw1s or yardage of fringe used as drapery. The shawl would have measured 72" X girdles or insignia of office are the trademark of 90". 24) forma1 Assyrian costume. Elaborately mounted To drape this shawl, line e to f would have tassels hang from corners of shawls and been folded over so that a to b hangs on the baldrics (shoulder straps from which swords outside of the body. The cord was attached just were suspended). 21) at e to g. Assyrian Shawl pattern consisted of five styles. Then hold g at the right side of the waist in Many of the styles are suitable for costumes to front, throwing the rest of the shawl wear in religious plays and pageants. backwards over the right shoulder. Edge e to f was then drawn around the back of the neck (1) Style A and formed a sling over the left arm. To finish draping, the edge e to f was passed around the The second Assyrian costume is that of the waist towards the right, under the right elbow, type worn by an attendant to a king such as then on around the back until it reached about King Assurnasirpal . The Assyrian 6 inches in front of the left side waist. The costume consists of a simple to the knee tunic remainder of the fabric swathe was folded with sleeves. The outfit is made complete with 2 underneath as seen in the . Finally a decorative shawls wrapped into position over the cord was tied around the waist to keep the tunic. Begin with point a of the Small draped shawl firmly in position. Shawl(20"X 40") 22) placed on the right If cord e to g is pulled down so that e hip. Use edge a to b of the shawl and it touches the waist, then both the shoulders will around the abdomen front toward the left side be covered by the drapery. Model A is and fully around the waist. one method of arranging the shawl as seen at

6 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

Shawl pattern Style A -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p.139

Shawl pattern Style A′ King Assurnasirpal -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, -http://www.fashion-era.com p.139

Shawl pattern Style B King Assurnasirpal -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, -http://www.fashion-era.com p.137

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Model A -Ancient Egyptian, Model B -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p.137 Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p.137

, but the effect can also be achieved Crook and dagger are symbols of his office. without the added waist-cord or small attached The heavy is typical of Assyrian 28) cord, e-g . To drape as at Model B, jewelry. The costume pattern is based on a take the same shawl and make a somewhat small statue of that King in the British Museum, deeper fold-over. The point e should be pinned which uses a simple under tunic plus two or knotted to the waist-cord of tunic. Then, shawls-a shawl and a half circle shawl. while arranging the remainder of the drapery Model C looks a little more like the after previous method, keep it at the costume plate of King Assurnasirpal. First the waist while it is being adjusted. When worn wearer must wear a tunic foundation. Next use thus, with a roll of itself; the drapery will remain the Square Shawl. in position, but it s not quite so secure as when The square shawl must measure 60" confined with an added waist-cord. On the by 60" as shown in the diagram. Fold about one whole, this drapery with the large shawl or third of the square shawl over and outwards. Tie shawls must have been reserved for occasions a waist cord on the top of the tunic. Now tuck of ceremony where movement was slow and the corner of the shawl at f deeply into the dignified. 25) waist cord at the left side. Next draw the folded shawl tightly around the body to the front. Take (3) Style C it around again across the back of the waist until the left side is reached once more. Now 26) King Ashurbanipal II is dressed for double about 6 inches of the square shawl religious ceremonies, with the shawl arranged in inwards and tuck into the waist cord. a special way, fold in two lengthwise, so as to Then use the semi circular shawl form two tiers of fringes, then wound round the edge g to h, and attach the cord at the end, to 27) body like a skirt and held on the left shoulder. another waist cord and throw backwards over

8 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

King Ashurbanipal II Model C -Ancient Egyptian, -20000 Years of Fashion, p.46 Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p.135

Shawl pattern Style C Shawl pattern Style C′ -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian - Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p.135 Costumes, p.135 the right shoulder and arrange it as a sling over (4) Style D the left arm. The corner h of the semi circular The Assyrian king Ashurnasirpal 30) in shawl hangs in front about 8 inches towards the a ceremonial costume after returning from a left and below the waist. Over this shawl the victory for his troops. He wears a similar outfit second waist cord should be tied very tightly to to his attendant above, but his tunic is longer to keep everything in position. 29) the ankle. A tasselled small 20" square shawl has been tied around his waist to add decorative value to his outfit. 31)

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(5) Style E

The high , the head of whom was the king himself, wore over this a c1oak-1ike garment cut all in one piece. It was drawl through under one arm and fastened on the opposite shoulder in such a manner that the front fel1 back over the upper arm. On the open side the back of the c1oak-1ike garment was tied to the front with cords sewn to the inside, their tasse1led ends hanging low down. This arrangement caused the garment to fit fairly close over breast and back. 32)

3) Military costume

The Assyrians’ warlike nature manifested itself in military costume. From the tenth century B.C on, and soldiers were dressed with comparative uniformity : short, fringed king Ashurnasirpal tunics, wide belts, conical helmets lined with -Assyrian Costumes and Jewelry, p.36 leather. Horseback archers, who fought in pairs,

Assyrian king Shawl pattern Style E -A History of Costume, p.74 -A History of Costume, p.74

10 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

wore helmet or round caps ; archers in long garments reaching to the ankles, thc wore long tunics covered in metal scales, belted tasseled, short-sleeved and non-decorated at the waist, and hooded helmets. The common tunic, over which a tasseled armored vest made Assyrian pointed helmet was regarded as Scythic of leather is usually worn. 35) in character. That cap appears, whether we Two heavily armed warriors will be follow the foreign, or the native representations seen that a carries a shield and dagger while of it, to have been of , whereas the Assyrian one is armed with a bow and sword, also one pointed helmet was made of metal: it was much is bare-footed while the other has sandals. The taller than the Assyrian head-dress, and it was conical helmets are characteristic and with their less upright. 33) curtains of mail from a very complete After the seventh century B.C, we can note protection for the head. The mail itself most the extension on cavalry and heavy infantry of probably consists of small meta1 plates sewn on the scaled cuirass, completed with and to a foundation of leather or stoutly woven shin-guards worn inside high . Light cloth. infantry replaced the cuirass with a metal disk Two military costumes wear fixed to the front of the chest ; archers, used in , where it would certainly seem as if the dispersed order, protected their chests with a earlier Assyrian was superseded by high folded cloak and wore only a short skirt and an laced boots from some outside source. Again, ordinary rolled round their heads. 34) the helmets at differ from the King Tiglath-Pilesar III are represented conical type seen at . Indeed

King Tiglath-Pilesar III armed warriors -Ancient Egyptian, -Assyrian Costumes and Jewelry . p.56 Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p. 141

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military costume military costume -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian -Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes, p. 147 Costumes, p. 147

20> has a he1met which is not unlike a certain The Assyrian working woman of type worn by the warriors of Ancient in about 700 B.C. wears a long tunic with a long 36) a later age. fringed shawl. The fringed shawl measure 50" x 80". The instructions to wear this style 2. Women's costume effectively, suggest first placing one corner of the shawl under the left armpit. Then the shawl is the Queen of King Assur-bani-pal should be drawn across the back under the right who ruled in the seventh century B.C. She armpit, wrapping it once around the body. wears a long fringe-trimmed tunic similar to that Then it should be drawn across the back and of her husband but with longer sleeves. Her up over the right shoulder, so that a corner of shawl would be 50" by 130" and was wrapped the fringed shawl hangs down in front of the once around her lower body, covering the lower right shoulder. part of her tunic and then wound up and around is an Assyrian woman costume her upper body with the shawl draped over her dating to the late Assyrian era taken from a shoulder. She wears a dog collar, which had vessel found in Ashur city. It shows the long been fashionable as far back as Akkadian times, tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed jeweled , and bulky earrings and shawl. 38) bracelets. Her 1ow completely cover her is another woman costume taken feet, the front part being patterned, the back from a religious ceremony representing the appearing to be shaped and held in p1ace by a transfer of gods by soldiers. It is known that such as is seen on primitive . 37)

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Queen of King Assurbanipal working woman -http://www.fashion-era.com -http://www.fashion-era.com

woman costume woman costume - Assyrian Costumes and Jewelry . p.64 - Assyrian Costumes and Jewelry . p.68

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when the Assyrians raided the Baby1onians and wide bracelets, generally decorated with in revenge, transferred god Marduk to the their rosettes. 41) kingdom as a pillage. 39) She wears a plaid tunic and wide belt over it. 1)

Around 1990, Iraqi archaeologists found three 3. Accessory very rich Assyrian tombs, dating to about The tiara, symbol of office, was a high 750-700 B.C., under the floors of rooms in fez-shaped headdress formed by alternating Ashurnasirpal's harem. One contained this rows of patterned and p1ain . An inverted extraordinary gold crown, it has a cone on top provided extra height. Infulae, or trellis vine on top, with bunches of lapis-lazuli ribbon-like streamers, fe1l from the headdress grapes hanging below it, supported by down the back. Large earrings bulky brace1ets, four-winged robed figures, similar to what is and armlets harmonize with the heavy, muscular, often described as angel, standing on rows of masculine forms. Swords and sheaths were pomegranates and rosettes. 42) handsome1y wrought. Sandals with functional The headgear represents an important counters are typical of Assyrian design. 40) complimentary clement of the Assyrian attire. In Many of the Assyrian costumes are richly general, it points to divine and religious symbols decorated and worn with a lavish display of in accordance to the ancient Mesopotamian . Assyrian has become known myths. The fabric headgear was among thc royal to us through representations on bas-reliefs and symbols placed before the gods during the on enamelled tiles and bricks where royal Festive God Assembly in the sky. Therefore personages and their gods are shown in great there is a strong connection between god and magnificence. these holy symbols. For example, the crown that The Assyrians, who prized rich jewels, wore is placed over the king’s head during coronation long ring-walnut-shaped earrings, at the neck, is considered the great and thc magnificent of several strands, composed of crown of god Ashur, the grand Assyrian god. 43) talismanic motifs, while on their arms they wore is the horned Cap of power. 44)

gold crown ugal(headdress) -http://jewelry-products-online.com/Jewelry- -http://www.bible-archaeology.info/jewelry.htm in-Ancient-Mesopotamia.html

14 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

God Sin- the god of the moon- is the god of parallel with the others, rose with a gentle curve the crown, and the moon light is the body of towards the front, allowing room for a large the crown. When the moon is crescent, it is rosette over the forehead, and for other similar viewed as a face with two horns, the face of a ornaments. In the early sculptures the small strong bull with tough and solid horns. more depressed than in the later, and it is also they were considered the symbols of divinity. less richly ornamented. It has seldom more than The horns were essential elements for the crown two bands, viz., a narrow one at top, and at along with the shiny and glittering beams. Thus, bottom a broader curved one, rising towards the light and gutter held an important place among front. To this last are attached two long strings Assyrians, and became fundamental elements of or lappets, which fall behind the monarch's back divinity and monarchy. 45) to a level with his elbow. 46) The special royal head-dress was a tall mitre This ugal (head-dress) once worn by or tiara which at first took the an Assyrian queen was recovered from the tomb shape of the head, but rose above it to a of Nimrud. 47) Also the Assyrian king Ashurnasirpal certain height in a gracefully curved line, when it was worn a headgear that is not as was covered in with a top, flat, like that of a high as those of the succeeding ere. The large , but having a projection towards the centre, gold flower that is decorating the front of the which rose up into a sort of , or peak, not crown, which ends by two bands that dangled however pointed, but either rounded or squared on thc back. 48) off. The tiara was generally ornamented with a succession of bands, between which were 2) Earrings commonly patterns more or less elaborate. The most ordinary form of the royal earrings in Ordinarily the lowest band, instead of running the more ancient times was a long drop, which

The Man-Bull pine cone earrings earrings -http://www.collection-gbornhau -History of Western -British Museum ser.li/114401.html Costume, p. 72

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was sometimes delicately chased another Necklace from the tomb at the common kind was an incomplete Maltese cross, ancient city of Nimrud, in Iraq is joined by a one arm of the four being left out because it clasp in the shape of entwined animal heads, would have interfered with the ear. In later times this finely worked gold necklace is one of six there was a good deal of variety in the details; retrieved from a tomb containing the personal but the drop and the cross were always favorite items and remains of two Assyrian queens. A features. total of 157 objects, including a gold Assyrian earrings varied according to the weighing more than two pounds, were found in social status and the costume worn by both the tomb, one of three discovered during an males and females. 49) excavation at a palace in the ancient city of The huge guardians were standing in Nimrud in Iraq. The tombs, which are thought to front of assyrian palaces, to protect them date from the eighth century B.C., contained an against evil spirits. Lamassu has the body of a astonishing amount of riches— more than 50 bull with five legs, wings and a bearded head pounds of gold and semiprecious stones. 52) with the crown of the gods on his head and Assyrian jewellery was not simply pretty exactly pine cone earrings 50) . Necklace with Coloured stones (and Gypsum wall panel relief: a beardless ) were considered to have attendant, the Keeper of the King's Bow, who beneficial properties: they warded off evil and wears over his garment a fringed wrap enriched protected against harm. 53) with a border of rosettes and concentric squares. His has three knob-like 4) Bracelet projections. 51) The monarch wore a variety of armlets. The most common was a plain of a single twist, 3) Necklace the ends of which slightly overlapped each other.

Necklace Necklace -"From With Gold" -http://knp.prs.heacademy.ac.uk/essentials/m edicinehealing/

16 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

A more elegant kind was similar to this, they were elastic, and were slipped over the except that the bar terminated in animal hand. 55) heads carefully wrought, among which the heads of rams, horses, and ducks were the most common. The style of the terminated in Ⅳ. Conclusion animal heads was regarded as a usual Stythic in character. The Assyria costume was become accomplished A third sort has the appearance of being in two types of usual tunic and shawl. composed of a number of long strings or , The tunic appears to be of the sleeves are confined at intervals of less than an inch by short and the body of the garment is tubular, cross bands at right angles to the wires. This reaching to the ankles among the upper class sort was carried round the arm twice, and even but shortened to knee length for active military then its ends overlapped considerably. It is duty, hunting, and day labor. probable that all the armlets were of metal, and Assyrian Shawl pattern consisted of five styles. that the appearance of the last was given to it Many of the styles are suitable for costumes to by the workman in imitation of an earlier and wear in religious plays and pageants. ruder armlet of worsted or leather. is Fringed shaw1s are the trademark of forma1 armlets inlaid with semiprecious stones. 54) Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was The bracelets of the king, like his armlets, a long fringed shawl or shoulder shawl, the were sometimes mere bars of metal, quite plain ends of which were wound round the person. and without ornament. More often, however, they The richness of the material and the length were ribbed and adorned with a large rosette at indicated the station of the wearer. The shawl the centre. Sometimes, instead of one with long fringes worn crossed over the breast simple rosette, we see three double rosettes, was the distinctive mark of the prime minister, between which project small points, shaped like or vizer. A double shawl with equally long the head of a spear. Occasionally these double fringes worn crossed indicated the master of rosettes appear to be set on the surface of a ceremonies. The king's own personal attendant broad bar, which is chased so as to represent wore shawl with short fringes. Officials of lower brickwork. The bracelets were fastened; perhaps grade wore no shawl at all.

bracelets bracelets armlets -http://www.bible-archaeolog -History of Western -"From Baghdad With Gold" y.info/jewelry.htm Costume, p.73

17 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.14, No.3

The military costume was comparative The bracelets were fastened; perhaps they were uniformity : conical helmets was regarded as elastic, and were slipped over the hand. Scythic in character, short, fringed tunics, wide We notice the types of costumes for daily belts or helmet, round caps and long tunics living of the royal society, the costumes of covered in metal scales, belted at the waist. religious , costumes for hunting and war, Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic costumes for the kings to wear when sick or with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or when they want to drive evil spirit away, or to the plaid tunic and wide belt over it. uncover relations, etc. Many of the Assyrian costumes are richly decorated and worn with a lavish display of jewellery. Reference The headgear represents an important complimentary clement of the Assyrian attire. 1) Mary G. Houston(2002), Ancient Egyptian, They wore gold crown and horned Cap and Assyrian and Persian Costumes, Mineor, tiara, ugal (head-dress). New York: Dover Publication, Inc. p.132. The crown that is placed over the king’s head 2) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi(2010), Assyrian during coronation is considered the great and Costumes and Jewelry . trans, Samir Johna, thc magnificent crown of god Ashur, the grand Regina Tower, Bloomington: Authorhouse, p.3. Assyrian god. The horned Cap of power was 3) Fred Aprim(1991), "Clothing in Ancient fundamental elements of divinity and monarchy. Assyria" Retrieved 2009. 7. 1 from http: The tiara was generally ornamented with a //www.nineveh.com/Clothing%20in%20 succession of bands, between which were Ancient%20Assyria.html commonly patterns more or less elaborate. the 4) Retrieved 2009. 7. 1 from http://www. ugal (head-dress) was among thc royal symbols wsu.edu/~dee/MESO/ASSYRIA.HTM, placed before the gods during the Festive God 5) Blanche Payne(1965), History of Costume , Assembly in the sky. Therefore there is a strong New York: Harper & Row Pub., p.46. connection between god and these holy 6) Retrieved 2010. 3. 15 from http://www. symbols. articlesbase.com/art-articles/the- Assyrian earrings varied according to the importance-of-hunting-in-assyrian-art-1991 social status and the costume worn by both 143.html males and females. The most ordinary earrings 7) J. E. Curtis, J. E. Reade(eds)(1995), Art and were the drop and the cross features. Necklace empire: treasures from , London: The British with Coloured stones were considered to have Museum Press. beneficial properties: they warded off evil and 8) Ibid. protected against harm. The most common 9) Retrieved 2010. 1. 2 from http://aina.org/ bracelets were a plain bar terminated in animal aol/nimrud/ heads that was regarded as a usual Stythic in 10) Leonard G. Rubin(1976), The World of character of a single twist, the ends of which Fashion, New york Hagerstown Philadelphia slightly overlapped each other or were ribbed San Francisco London: Harper & Row Pub., and adorned with a large rosette at the centre. p.13.

18 Kim Moonja / A study on the Assyrian Costume

11) Carl Köhler(1963), A History of Costume , 38) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.64. trans, Alexander K. M. A, New 39) Ibid., p.68. York:Dover Publication, Inc., p.71. 40) Blanche Payne, op.cit., pp.47-48. 12) Fred Aprim, op.cit. 41) François Boucher, op.cit., p.48. 13) R. Tuner Wilcox(1958), The Mode in Costume, 42) Retrieved 2009. 12. 3 from http://www. New York: Charles Scribner's Son, p.8. christiansofiraq.com/guardeanang el.html 14) François Boucher(1967), 20000 Years of 43) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.14. Fashion , London: Thames & Hudson, p.46. 44) Mary G. Houston, op.cit., p.156. 15) R. Tuner Wilcox, op.cit., p.8. 45) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.14. 16) Blanche Payne, op.cit., p.46. 46) M. A. Rawlinson, George, op.cit. 17) Carl Köhler. op.cit., p.70. 47) Retrieved 2009. 11. 4 from http://www. 18) ibid. ushistory.org/civ/4d.asp 19) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.52. 48) Ibid. 20) Carl Köhler, op.cit., pp.70-71. 49) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.86. 21) Blanche Payne, op.cit., p. 46. 50) Retrieved 2009. 11. 10 from http://www. 22) Mary G. Houston, op.cit., p.139. collection-gbornhauser.li/114401. html 23) Ibid., pp.139-140. 51) Cho Jinei, Son Heuijeong, Lee Hyejin 24) Retrieved 2009. 12. 1 from http://www. (2001), History of Western Costume , fashion-era.com/ancient_costume kyunchoonsa, p.72. /assyrian_clothing_pictures_assur.htm 52) Retrieved 2009. 11. 30 from http://www. 25) Mary G. Houston, op.cit., pp.137-138. zindamagazine.com/html/archives/ 26) François Boucher, op.cit., p. 46. 2002/10.21.02/index.php 27) Ibid., p.47. 53) Retrieved 2009. 11. 20 from http://knp. 28) Blanche Payne, op.cit., pp.46-47. prs.heacademy.ac.uk/essentials/me 29) Mary G. Houston, op.cit., p.136. dicinehealing 30) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit. p.36. 54) Jarrett A. Lobell(2002, May/June), "From 31) Retrieved 2009. 12. 1 from http://www. Baghdad With Gold" 55(3), Retrieved 2009. fashion-era.com/ancient_costume 11. 20 from http://www.archaeology.org/ /assyrian_clothing_pictures_assur.htm 0205/newsbriefs/iraqgold.html 32) Carl Köhler op.cit., pp.73-74. 55) M. A. Rawlinson, George(2005), "The Seven 33) M. A. Rawlinson, George(2005), "THE SEVEN Great Monarchies Of The Ancient Eastern GREAT MONARCHIES OF THE ANCIENT World, Vol 7. (of 7): The Sass." Retrieved EASTERN WORLD; CAMDEN PROFESSOR OF 2010. 2. 1 from http://www.gutenberg.org IN THE UNIVERSITY OF /files/ 16162/16162-h/r2d.htm#image-0026 OXFORD, IN THREE VOLUMES. VOLUME I". Retrieved 2010. 2. 1 from http://www. gutenberg.org/files/16162/16162-h/r2main.htm Received February 22, 2010 34) François Boucher, op.cit., p.48. Revised March 15, 2010 35) Walid Al-Jadir, Dia Al-Azzawi, op.cit., p.56. Accepted March 22, 2010 36) Mary G. Houston, op.cit., pp.144-146. 37) Blanche Payne, op.cit., pp.48-49.

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