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What Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA) has set the standard in the vintage industry since opening our Soho Flagship store in 1993. Inspired by the values of individuality, authenticity, quality and collectability, the WGACA team travels the globe using their more than 50 years of combined experience to hand pick an assortment of vintage and collectible fashion. The WGACA vintage Chanel collection is authenticated through our long history and experience as the leaders in the vintage market.

Gabrielle Chanel, or as we know her today - Coco Chanel - was and still remains, one of the most iconic women in fashion. With her passion, determination and talent she built a fashion empire, beginning with her first millinery shop in 1912. By the 1920s, Chanel had liberated women by successfully replacing the commonly worn corset with comfortable and sophisticated looks like simple suiting, trousers and dresses worn with beautifully intricate costume jewelry.

Chanel introduced her first collection of jewelry in the early 1920s. She created the jewelry for herself as much as for her customers. Her simple dress designs and plain fabrics were ideal for layering charms. The pieces were made in pure contrast to the simplicity of her clothing - they were bold and theatrical with many enchanting inspirations. Chanel favored multi-colored, semi-precious stones and often mixed real and faux.

In her later years, when she began designing again after a hiatus during WWII, Chanel's designs were made of multi-colored glass stones, faux pearls and rhinestones fashioned into necklaces, bracelets, broaches, pendants and earrings using gold plated metal that was superior in quality to her pervious work. These pieces of jewelry are highly collectible. Many of her early pieces were not signed.

Chanel was a firm believer in wearing faux jewels; "Jewelry is not made to give women the aura of wealth, but to make them beautiful," she had said. Ironically, Chanel jewelry today, from all past decades, holds its value and high price tag because of its beautifully unique designs and exclusivity. ! ! ! ! !

jewelry

COSTUME JEWELRY IS NOT MADE TO GIVE WOMEN AN AURA OF WEALTH, BUT TO MAKE THEM BEAUTIFUL. -COCO CHANEL

“CHANEL JEWELRY IS IDENTIFIED THREE WAYS: SIGNED BY CHANEL IN BLOCK CAPITAL LETTERS, AS IT IS CURRENTLY MARKED; IN CURSIVE, WITH THE FIRST LETTER CAPITALIZED; OR UNSIGNED” (CERA, 1995:174).

18K GOLD PLATED

BAROQUE is the style of fake pearls.! GRIPOIX is the family of jewellers that SAUTOIR refers to a long Chanel worked with beginning in the stranded necklace. 1920s. They poured glass to attain semi- precious stones. Poured glass is known ! as 'paté de verge.ʼ

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COMMON THEMES/MOTIFS

LIONS: CHANELʼS ASTROLOGICAL SIGN WAS LEO CAMELLIA FLOWERS: HER QUILTING: INSPIRED FAVORITE BY JOCKEY UNIFORMS

FRETWORK

MALTESE CROSS: DESIGN MOTIF BY VERDURA STRAWBOATERS: REFERS TO 31 RUE CAMBON: HER FIRST CHANELʼS FIRST FORAY INTO STOREFRONT DESIGN AS A MILLINER

2.55 BAG: CREATED IN FEBRUARY 1955, ONE OF HER MOST ICONIC DESIGNS

SCISSORS: CHANEL TENDED NUMBER 5: HER LUCKY TO WEAR A PAIR OF NUMBER AND SUBSEQUENT SCISSORS ON A SILK RIBBON CHOICE FOR HER INFAMOUS IN HER ATELIER CHANEL NO. 5 PARFUM !

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1920S-1930S 1940S 1950S-1960S 1970S-MID 1980S

NOT MARKED, RARE REDUCED RUE DE CAMBON SHOP RE-OPENS COPYRIGHT AND REGISTRATION TRADEMARKS PRODUCTION DUE TO BEGAN TO APPEAR 1929 INVITED WORLD WAR II CAMELLIA FLOWERS BECOME MOTIF VERDURA TO DESIGN, SIGNATURE PLATE FROM THE MID-70S TO THE MALTESE CROSS ACCESSORIES AND MANY PIECES DESIGNED BY ROBERT EARLY 80S INCLUDES THE CHANEL CC MADE IN MOTIF PERFUMES STILL GOOSENS FRANCE ACCOMPANIED WITH THE COPYRIGHT POPULAR BUYS AND REGISTRATION TRADEMARK TO BE WORN WITH AMONG SOLDIERS SIMPLY MARKED AS CHANEL; CHANEL LOOKS USUALLY STAMPED ON THE PIECE 1980-1985 THE DATE REPLACED MADE IN ITSELF FRANCE

! OVAL RATHER THAN ROUND PLATE 1986-1992 1990S-2000S COPYRIGHT MARK MOVED NEXT TO THE CC LAGERFELD WAS APPOINTED COUTURIER AND JEWELRY FROM THE 90S ARE TAGGED LOGO AS OPPOSED TO ONE SIDE OF THE WORD HEAD DESIGNER IN 1983 WITH THE YEAR AND THE SEASON CHANEL

HIRED VICTOIRE DE CASTELLANE (NOW AT P MEANS PRINTEMPS (SPRING/SUMMER 1978 READY-TO-WEAR LINE BEGINS. DIOR) COLLECTION) ACCESSORIES ARE NOW DISTRIBUTED WORLDWIDE HER COLLECTIONS SPAN THIS SEVEN YEAR A MEANS AUTUMN (AUTUMN/WINTER PERIOD AND ARE MARKED AS: COLLECTION) 1981 USED PINK/BLUE/RED CIRCLE CRYSTALS

RD 2 CC 3: 23 COLLECTION, 1986 0: 1990 IN 1932, 1: 1991 TH CHANEL 2 CC 4: 24 COLLECTION, 1987 2: 1992 TEAMED UP 93: 1993 TH WITH DE BEERS 2 CC 5: 25 COLLECTION, 1988 94: 1994 AND CREATED TH 95: 1995 2 CC 6: 26 COLLECTION, 1989 96: 1996 A COLLECTION TH OF JEWELRY 2 CC 7: 27 COLLECTION, 1990 97: 1997 98: 1998 THAT WAS 2 CC 8: 28TH COLLECTION, 1991 99: 1999 MORE 00: 2000 AFFORDABLE TH 2 CC 9: 29 COLLECTION, 1992 01: 2001 DUE TO THE 02: 2002 DEPRESSION USED GREEN CRYSTALS IN LATER 1980S

“BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS” FINE JEWELRY EXHIBITION, 1932

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TAG or HALLMARK guarantees the authenticity of the item. Each item has a tag or hallmark that indicates the production year and seasons.

1950S-1960S 70S- MID80S

1986: 23RD COLLECTION 1993 PRINTEMPS (S/S)

TH 1991: 28 COLLECTION 1995 PRINTEMPS (S/S) 1995 AUTUMN (A/W) ! ! 1994 AUTUMN (A/W) !

1991: 28TH COLLECTION 2006 AUTUMN (A/W) ! ! ! ! !

Handbags

FEBRUARY 1955: CHANEL DESIGNS HER FIRST HANDBAG THAT COMES TO BE KNOWN AS THE 2.55 AFTER THE DATE IT WAS CREATED. BASED ON A DESIGN BY GERMAIN GUERIN & REFERRED TO AS THE FIRST MODERN BAG, IT PROVIDED WOMEN WITH A HANDS-FREE BAG ALLOWING THEM TO BOTH DRINK AND SMOKE. IT WAS CONSIDERED PRACTICAL AS THE STRAP LENGTH COULD BE ADJUSTED FROM SHORTER TO LONGER. FIRST PRODUCED IN JERSEY (A FABRIC SHE POPULARIZED IN THE 1910S; PRIOR IT HAD BEEN USED FOR MENʼS UNDERGARMENTS) AND LEATHER IN A QUILTED PATTERN. THIS QUILTING WAS ORIGINALLY DONE BY HAND, NOW BY MACHINE. THE ORIGINAL 2.55 LOCK WAS RECTANGULAR WITH A GOLD PLATED CHAIN. THE DESIGN IS STILL PRODUCED TODAY. IN 2005, A TRIBUTE TO THE ORIGINAL 2.55 BAG WAS MADE CALLED THE REISSUE. INFAMOUS QUILTED DIAMOND DESIGN INSPIRED BY JOCKEY UNIFORMS. SHE WANTED THE BAG TO HAVE BODY THUS THE 3- DIMENSIONAL SHAPE CREATED BY THE QUILTING.

FRONT FLAP RECTANGULAR, GOLD PLATED LOCK. ALSO ADJUSTABLE GOLD KNOWN AS THE PLATED CHAIN STRAPS. MADEMOISELLE LOCK AS INSPIRED BY CHAINS CHANEL NEVER MARRIED. GUARDS WORE AT CHANEL STAMPED BELOW ORPHANAGE AS A EARLY 2.55 CHANEL BAG ON REISSUE. CHILD.

THREE BELLOW POCKETS WITHIN TO STORE LADYʼS NECESSITIES SUCH AS LIPSTICK.

INNER RED LINING. DOUBLE FLAP TO INSPIRED BY CONCEAL MONEY. BACK POCKET FOR BACK OF FRONT FLAP ORPHANAGE UNIFORMS EXTRA CASH. ZIPPERED POCKET FOR AS YOUNG GIRL. HIDING LOVE LETTERS. ! ! ! ! !

1980s: KARL LAGERFELD CREATED THE CC LOCK. THE GOLD PLATED CHAIN STRAP WAS ALSO UPDATED WITH AN INTERTWINED STRAP OF LAMBSKIN OR CALFSKIN LEATHER. LAMBSKIN AND CALFSKIN LEATHER WAS LATER USED AFTER THE INITIAL USE OF JERSEY IN THE DESIGN OF THE 2.55 BAG. LEATHER WAS MEANT FOR DAYTIME USE WHILE JESREY AND SILK BAGS WERE WORN AT NIGHT. THE LAMBSKIN REISSUE IS LEATHER WOVEN THROUGH REFERRED TO AS THE CLASSIC 24K GOLD GILDED CHAIN LAMBSKIN REISSUE WITH A RED LEATHER LINING. THE CAVIAR VERSION IS CALLED THE CLASSIC FLAP AND SHOULD HAVE A BLACK LINING

CC LOCK

QUILTING DONE BY MACHINE ON LEATHER MATERIALS.

MATERIALS 2005 2.55 REISSUE BAG

ALL CHANEL HARDWARE IS 18K GOLD PLATED (SAME AS COSTUME JEWELRY) OR 24K GOLD GILDED. THE HARDWARE ON VINTAGE CHANEL IS MUCH HEAVIER AND MORE SUBSTANTIAL AS OPPOSED TO THE NEW BAGS.

CHANEL COLOR PALETTE

COLORED CHANEL BAGS ARE ALWAYS VERY COLLECTABLE AND GENERALLY MORE RARE BECAUSE CHANEL IS VERY SEASONAL WITH COLOR CHOICES AND THEY ARE HARDLY EVER REPEATED. ANYTHING THAT IS NOT BLACK OR CREAM IS RARE AND VERY DESIRED.

BLACK USED ON VINTAGE BAGS IS A MUCH SOFTER BLACK THAN THE NEW BAGS. THEY PICK UP BOTH BLACK AND NAVY TONES CAUSED BY THE NATURAL, BERRY-BASED DYE USED ON THE LAMBSKIN AT THE TIME.

ITALIAN MADE CHANEL USUALLY MEANS IT IS A PRE-1985 CHANEL BUT THIS IS NOT ALWAYS THE CASE, AS CHANEL TODAY PRODUCES AND SOURCES ITALIAN LEATHER DEPENDING ON THE STYLE OF THE BAG. LOOK AT DESIGN DETAILS (HARDWARE, LABEL, TASSEL, ETC.) TO CORRECTLY DATE. HARDWARE WITHOUT A MARK INDICATES ITALIAN PRODUCTION, WHILE HARDWARE WITH A MARK DENOTES MADE IN FRANCE. ! ! ! ! !

LEATHERS

BOTH LAMBSKIN AND CALFSKIN ARE USED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF CHANEL BAGS.

LAMBSKIN IS POLISHED THUS SOFTER TO THE TOUCH THAN CALFSKIN. IT IS ALSO MORE DELICATE THAN CALFSKIN. LAMBSKIN USED ON VINTAGE CHANEL BAGS IS MUCH THICKER THAN ON THE NEW BAGS CHANEL PRODUCES.

CALFSKIN CAN BE EMBOSSED TO CREATE THE CAVIAR OR PEBBLED FINISH ON SOME CHANEL BAGS. CAVIAR BAGS ARE FAR LESS LIKELY TO SCRATCH OR WEAR THAN THE TRADITIONAL POLISHED LAMBSKIN BECAUSE THE HIDE IS MUCH THICKER AND HEAVY- DUTY.

CHANEL LEATHERS ARE DYED INTEGRALLY TO PRESERVE NATURAL AND SOFT LOOKS AS OPPOSED TO SURFACE DYEING THAT HARDENS LEATHER.

CAVIAR/PEBBLED CALFSKIN

POLISHED LAMBSKIN

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OTHER MATERIALS: CHANEL HAS ALSO EMPLOYED OTHER MATERIALS IN ADDITION TO LEATHER.

PATENT LEATHER!

TWEED JERSEY/COTTON

LIZARD! VOGUE, 1967!

PONY HAIR! SUEDE!

METALLIC FABRIC!

MULTICOLORED!

VINYL! OSTRICH!

DENIM! SILK/SATIN! LEATHER & WOOL! NYLON/CANVAS! ! ! ! ! !

CHAINS

IF A GOLD CHAIN IS USED THE LOCK WILL MOST LIKELY MATCH USING GOLD AS WELL!

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HARDWARE

CHANEL HARDWARE IS GILDED WITH 24K GOLD. IT CAN BE DULLED WITH CONTINUED EXPOSURE TO SEA AIR AND THE ACIDITY OF THE SKIN. CHANEL PROVIDES REGILDING SERVICES.!

THE RIGHT C SHOULD BE OVER THE HOOK OF THE LEFT C!

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ZIPPER PULLS

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LINING

FLAT HEAD SCREWS SHOULD BE USED. !

THE SPACE BETWEEN THE QUILTED Cs SHOULD MATCH THE THICKNESS OF THE Cs!

CHANEL STAMP SHOULD BE 1 ½ CM BELOW QUILTED C!

THE LINING SHOULD FIT NEATLY INTO THE THERE SHOULD BE AT INTERIOR WITH NO BUMPS LEAST 10 STITCHES PER OR LINES AND DIFFICULT INCH! TO SEPARATE!

LININGS ON CLASSIC BAGS SHOULD BE LEATHER EITHER RED OR BLACK. !

CHANEL BAGS CAN ALSO HAVE FABRIC LININGS LIKE GROSGRAIN OR SILK THIS IS MORE TYPICAL IN NON- CLASSICAL STYLES. THESE LININGS WILL BE OF HIGH LININGS OF NON-CLASSIC QUALITY MATERIALS AND WILL BAGS CAN ALSO BE BE PRECISELY FITTED INTO LEATHER IN VARYING THE BAG JUST AS LEATHER. COLORS! ! ! ! ! ! !

LABELS

CHANEL EMBOSSED IN BLACK LABEL WITH CHANEL LEATHER, ABOVE THE IN WHITE LETTERS (NO POCKET, IN FRONT OF CONTRAST STITCHING THE INTERIOR POCKET, AROUND THE LABEL) OR OR ON THE LOWER BLACK LABEL WITH WHITE PORTION OF THE VERTICAL LINES. INTERIOR FLAP. MADE IN FRANCE OR MADE IN ! ITALY SHOULD BE OPPOSITE THE STAMP OR DIRECTLY BELOW THE STAMP. !

OVAL LEATHER LABEL WITH CHANEL EMBOSSED INTO LEATHER. CIRCLE CC LOGO AND MADE IN ITALY EMBOSSED DIRECTLY UNDERNEATH CHANEL. NO CONTRAST STITCHING. RECTANGULAR LEATHER LABEL (COLOR ! SHOULD MATCH EXTERIOR) WITH CHANEL STAMP IN GOLD OR SILVER. IF THE HARDWARE IS GOLD, THIS STAMP SHOULD BE GOLD. IF THE HARDWARE IS SILVER, THIS STAMP SHOULD BE SILVER. MADE IN FRANCE OR ITALY IS DIRECTLY BENEATH THE STAMP. NO CONTRAST COLOR STITCHING.

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GOLD OR SILVER STAMP ON INTERIOR LEATHER IN FRONT OF OPEN POCKET, ABOVE OPEN POCKET, OR ON THE LOWER PORTION OF THE INTERIOR FLAP. THE HARDWARE COLOR SHOULD MATCH THE STAMP COLOR. MADE IN IS UNDER OR OPPOSITE THE STAMP. !

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ID CARD

A GRAY SYMBOL INDICATES THE BAG WAS PRODUCED 2005-ONWARDS! ! ! ! ! !

HOLOGRAM IDENTIFICATION

A SERIAL NUMBER SHOULD NEVER BE MORE THAN 8 DIGITS LONG. 6 NUMBERS INDICATES PRODUCTION BETWEEN 1984-86, 7 DIGITS IS 1986-2004, AND 8 DIGITS IS 2005-PRESENT.!

Chanel Serial numbers

Authentic Chanel handbags from the mid 1980s on come with authenticity cards embossed with a serial number (pictured on right). The serial number matches the serial number appearing on a sticker placed somewhere within the handbag’s interior lining. The serial number sticker has Chanel logos and was protected by a clear tape with hologram security feature from approximately 2000-on. The sticker, Chanel logo, and hologram design varied with the manufacturing date:

Serial Year Style of Numbers Style of Serial Number Sticker Picture of Serial Number Manufactured Number Sticker 14XXXXXX 2011 0's have strikethroughs. Eight digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

13XXXXXX 2009 to 2010 0's have strikethroughs. Eight digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

12XXXXXX 2008 to 2009 0's have strikethroughs. Eight digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

11XXXXXX 2006 to 2008 0's have strikethroughs. Eight digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

10XXXXXX 2005 to 2006 0's have strikethroughs. Eight digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

9XXXXXX 2004 to 2005 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

8XXXXXX 2003 to 2004 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

7XXXXXX 2002 to 2003 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

6XXXXXX 2000 to 2002 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's have small serifs white sticker covered with clear tape (feet). with two Chanel logos."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from being removed without damage. "CHANEL" appears on right right side of the sticker. Dark line appears on left side of sticker. Gold speckles appear throughout sticker.

5XXXXXX 1997 to 1999 0's have strikethroughs Seven digit serial number printed on up to 51XXXXX. 0's white sticker covered with clear tape have no strikethroughs with two Chanel logos from 57XXXXX from 52XXXXX to on."X" cut-lines prevent sticker from 56XXXXX. 0's have being removed without damage. strikethroughs from "CHANEL" appears on right right side 57XXXXX on. 1's have of the sticker. Dark line appears on small serifs (feet) from left side of sticker. Gold speckles 57XXXXX on. appear throughout sticker.

4XXXXXX 1996 to 1997 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's are sans-serifs (no white sticker with Chanel logos. feet). Opaque film covers sticker.

3XXXXXX 1994 to 1996 0's have strikethroughs. Seven digit serial number printed on 1's are sans-serifs (no white sticker with Chanel logos. feet). Opaque film covers sticker.

2XXXXXX 1991 to 1994 0's have no Seven digit serial number printed on strikethroughs up to white sticker with Chanel logos. 27XXXXXX. 1's have Opaque film covers sticker. serifs (feet).

1XXXXXX 1989 to 1991 0's have no Seven digit serial number printed on strikethroughs. 1's have white sticker with Chanel logos and serifs (feet). left-sided cutout. Opaque film covers sticker.

0XXXXXX 1986 to 1988 0's have no Seven digit serial number printed on strikethroughs. 1's have white sticker with Chanel logos and serifs (feet). left-sided cutout. Opaque film covers sticker.

Note that over time, serial number stickers often become detached from handbags. Authentication cards also often become lost however items may still be authentic. ! ! ! ! !

authenticity

Once bags are authenticated by WGACA, we can supply letters and cards of authentication.

References

Farneti Cera, D. (1997) Costume Jewellery. Woodbridge: Antique Collectorsʼ Club.

ʻChanel Designs Againʼ in Vogue. 15 February 1954.

ʻNext Chanel Success…ʼ in Vogue. 15 April 1967.

Bowles, H. ʻThe Chanel Centuryʼ in Vogue. 1 May 2005.