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Let the Holidays Begin! Big,Bold Jewels Your Own Shopping the World
D D NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Big, Bold Your Own Shopping ...Let the Jewels Private Caribbean the World Holidays Begin! p236 p66 p148 PERSONALBEST the business of scent A Whiff of Something Real As mass-produced perfumes become the new normal, the origin of a fragrance is more important than ever. TINA GAUDOIN reports from Grasse, the ancient home of perfume and the jasmine fields of Chanel No 5. oseph Mul drives his battered pickup into the dusty, rutted field of Jasminum gran- diflorum shrubs. It is 9 A.M. on a warm, slightly overcast September morning in Pégomas in southern France, about four miles from Grasse, the ancient home of Jperfume. In front of Mul’s truck, which is making easy work of the tough ter- rain, a small army of colorfully dressed pickers, most hailing from Eastern Europe, fans out, backs bent in pursuit of the elusive jasmine bloom that flowers over- night and must be harvested from the three-foot-high bushes before noon. By lunchtime, the petals will have been weighed by Mul, the numbers noted in the ledger (bonuses are paid by the kilo), and the pickers, who have been working since before dawn, will retire for a meal and a nap. Not so for Mul, who will oversee the beginnings of the lengthy distillation technique of turning the blooms into jasmine absolute, the essential oil and vital in- gredient in the world’s most famous and best- selling fragrance: Chanel No 5. All told, it’s a labor-intensive process. One picker takes roughly an hour to harvest one pound of jasmine; 772 pounds are required to make two pounds of concrete—the solution ARCHIVE ! WICKHAM/TRUNK ! MICHAEL !"! LTD ! NAST ! The post–World War II era marked the beginning of mass fragrance, when women wore perfume for more than just special occasions. -
Storied Perfume for Mystery Writers, Fragrance Is Often the Most Telltale Clue Left Behind at the Scene of a Crime
latimes.com LA STO RIES LA STYLE LA LIVING LA CULTURE LA BLO G S LA VIDEO S INSIDE L.A. BROWS E Past Issues Topics SEARCH S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1 Storied Perfume For mystery writers, fragrance is often the most telltale clue left behind at the scene of a crime UNCOMMON SCENTS In the early stages of evolution, humans whose noses excelled at tracking prey—and could lead their tribe to water and alert it to big, musky predators—were rewarded with both survival and mates. DENISE HAMILTON Scientists say that while we can still distinguish up to 50,000 smells, the need for keen sniffers has dwindled in real life. And yet it flourishes in literature—especially crime fiction, where authors utilize fragrance as clues, psychological triggers and objects of obsession. Best known of the books is probably Patrick Süskind’s 1985 novel (and subsequent movie) Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, about an 18thcentury French idiot savant with olfactory perfect pitch who whips up a scent from the essence of a beautiful virgin that he has sniffed out in a secluded private garden, and the resulting odor is able to bewitch people into doing his bidding. Perfume is redolent with antique apothecaries, fragrant Grasse flower fields and enfleurage, the process of using odorless fats to capture the fragrant compounds that are exuded by plants. But crime novels featuring perfumes reach back to the 1920s and ’30s, the golden age of the classic French perfume houses. When sleuth Philo Vance sniffs the nozzle of an atomizer in a murdered lady’s bathroom in 1934’s Casino Murder Case, author S.S. -
Coco Chanel's Comeback Fashions Reflect
CRITICS SCOFFED BUT WOMEN BOUGHT: COCO CHANEL’S COMEBACK FASHIONS REFLECT THE DESIRES OF THE 1950S AMERICAN WOMAN By Christina George The date was February 5, 1954. The time—l2:00 P.M.1 The place—Paris, France. The event—world renowned fashion designer Gabriel “Coco” Cha- nel’s comeback fashion show. Fashion editors, designers, and journalists from England, America and France waited anxiously to document the event.2 With such high anticipation, tickets to her show were hard to come by. Some mem- bers of the audience even sat on the floor.3 Life magazine reported, “Tickets were ripped off reserved seats, and overwhelmingly important fashion maga- zine editors were sent to sit on the stairs.”4 The first to walk out on the runway was a brunette model wearing “a plain navy suit with a box jacket and white blouse with a little bow tie.”5 This first design, and those that followed, disap- 1 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of her Own(New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1990), 287. 2 Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of her Own, 287; Edmonde Charles-Roux, Chanel: Her Life, her world-and the women behind the legend she herself created, trans. Nancy Amphoux, (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1975), 365. 3 “Chanel a La Page? ‘But No!’” Los Angeles Times, February 6, 1954. 4 “What Chanel Storm is About: She Takes a Chance on a Comeback,” Life, March 1, 1954, 49. 5 “Chanel a La Page? ‘But No!’” 79 the forum pointed onlookers. The next day, newspapers called her fashions outdated. -
Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: a Case Study
Argumentum. Journal of the Seminar of Discursive Logic, Argumentation Theory and Rhetoric 16 (1): 80-93, 2018 Brînduşa-Mariana AMALANCEI “Vasile Alecsandri” University of Bacău (Romania) Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: A Case Study Abstract: The analysis of a perfume advertising image can be done from multiple perspectives, the endeavors to provide possible reading paths and interpretations being among the most diverse in the literature. Whether it is to meet the consumers’ psychological desires, to relate to fashion trends, or to create a rare scent, perfume advertising is a real challenge, which often needs to be answered just by juxtaposing an image and the product name. Our paper highlights the way in which the correlation between the visual and olfactory forms of perfumes is attempted, through product name, vial, characters, context and text (Julien 1997). Because in many advertisements the perfume is replacing the character, we chose as a case study an advertising image that we consider illustrating in this respect, that of the new olfactory creation of Chanel, Gabrielle, which appeared in September 2017. We have to mention that the launch of this product has been marked by the appearance of homage articles in glossy magazines, which contributes, through the information provided, to a better understanding of the message the advertisement transmits. Keywords: image, visual identity, olfactory concept, olfactory memory, brand name, perfume name, perfume bottle, advertising context 1. Fragrances ‒ Vectors of Communication Considered a privileged way of communication, perfumes are an identity mark (Vettraino-Soulard 1992, 106). We can often hear in advertisements about perfumes for strong women, perfumes that suit active women, perfumes for romantic women, etc. -
Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto by Lili Tisseyre
www.smartymagazine.com Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto by Lili Tisseyre >> PARIS While Paris Fashion Week is in full swing, far from the usual catwalks, the Palais Galliera, dedicated to fashion, offers a sublime retrospective that celebrates the allure and vision of Chanel. The exhibition, which opened last October, could not welcome the expected public due to (re)confinement and the tribute did not have the expected echo. In those years when Paul Poiret dominated women's fashion, Gabrielle Chanel, from 1912 onwards, in Deauville, then in Biarritz and Paris, revolutionized the world of couture, printing a true fashion manifesto on the bodies of her contemporaries. SEE THE VIDEO The scenography is chronological. In the first room of the exhibition, the curator has chosen to evoke the beginnings of Coco Chanel by highlighting a few emblematic pieces, including the famous jersey sailor jacket created in 1916. Then we are invited to follow the evolution of Chanel's chic style: from the little black dresses and sporty models of the Roaring Twenties to the sophisticated dresses of the 1930s. Further on, an entire room is devoted to N°5. The flagship perfume and quintessence of the spirit of "Coco" Chanel, this fragance is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. Dialoguing with the ten chapters dedicated to it, ten photographic portraits of Gabrielle Chanel punctuate the scenography and affirm how much the couturier still embodies the brand. Then came the war and the closure of the fashion house; the only thing that remained in Paris was the sale of perfumes and accessories at 31 rue Cambon. -
Teacher's Notes
For readers aged 4+ | 9781847807717 | Hardback | £9.99 Lots of the activities and discussion topics in these teacher’s notes are deliberately left open to encourage pupils to develop independent thinking around the book. This will help pupils build confidence in their ability to problem solve as individuals and also as part of a group. Little People, BIG DREAMS | teacher’s notes notes BIG DREAMS | teacher’s Little People, 1 Little People, BIG DREAMS Teachers’ Notes © 2018 Frances Lincoln Children’s Books. All Rights Reserved. Written by Eva John. www.quartoknows.com The Front Cover What do you think Coco Chanel’s big dream might have been? Do you know anything about Coco Chanel? The Blurb Does the blurb suggest that your idea about Coco’s big dream was correct? Check your understanding of the following words and phrases: • orphanage • cabaret singer • seamstress • fashion designer • style icon If you are not quite sure, you could consult with friends, use a dictionary, or read the book to see if you can work it out for yourself. The Endpapers What effect does looking at the end papers have on you? Why do you think the illustrator decided on this design? This is the story of a young girl called Gabrielle. When she was little, Gabrielle lived in an orphanage. What is an orphanage? Who do you think ran the orphanage? What sort of childhood do you imagine Gabrielle had there? Little People, BIG DREAMS | teacher’s notes notes BIG DREAMS | teacher’s Little People, notes BIG DREAMS | teacher’s Little People, 2 Little People, BIG DREAMS Teachers’ Notes © 2018 Frances Lincoln Children’s Books. -
Press Release: Fresh, Clean & Profoundly Sensual BLEU De
825 Seventh Avenue New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-474-0000 Fax: 212-474-0003 Website: www.mecglobal.com Press Release: Fresh, Clean & Profoundly Sensual BLEU de CHANEL Contact: Kisha S. Facey (0730) June 4, 2010 Picture it... Paris, France in the 1930’s. The beautiful Eiffel Tower in the background and the Louvre filled with exquisite art paintings. The famed soprano opera singer Jane Bathori can be heard throughout the cafes. The French natives are buzzing about the new women’s fragrance developed by Borjois Paris, “Soirée à Paris” (Evening in Paris). An unforgettable provocative fragrance with a rich floral bouquet and a hint of wood scents. This eau de perfume deemed to be worn by a maximum number of women all over the world. Picture it… Paris, France in 2010 Chanel has re-launched the Soirée à Paris but with a twist, its for men! “Bleu de Chanel” will debut in France on August 19, 2010. It will be distributed in the U.S. on September 10, 2010. The eau de toilette spray will be offered in a 50 and 100ml bottles. The striking square cobalt blue bottle is a timeless classic yet a rare modern day romantic fragrance. Developer Jacques Polge, wanted to keep the original scent of the Soirée à Paris adding masculinity aroma. The blended Bleu de Chanel scents are various woods with added hints of nutmeg, peppermint, citrus, ginger and jasmine. This will allure just about any woman who knows a good fragrance when she smells it. The :30 commercials will begin airing in France during mid-July. -
Second Quarter 2021
UPDATE ON NEGATIVE BLOOD AND URINE ANALYSES RESULTS IN 2021 IN THE EADCM PROGRAMME (updated 20.07.2021) DATE CATEGORY PLACE COUNTRY HORSE'S NAME NF PR April 01 - 04 CEI3*160/ MACRAES FLAT NZL GLENDAAR FIRE MAID NZL CEI2*120/CEI1*100/ GLENDAAR NISSAR NZL CEIYJ3*160/CEIYJ2*120/CEIYJ1*100 GLENDAAR WINDSONG NZL 02 - 04 CCI4*-S/ BRIGADOON AUS MISTY ISLE VALENTINO AUS CCI3*-S/CCI3*-L/ KENDLESTONE PARK HOLLYWOOD AUS CCI2*-S/CCI2*-L HAZID ROAD AUS ESB IRISH NYMPH AUS DVZ SOLITAIRE AUS ASTI HERA AUS 08 - 11 CCI4*-S/CCI4*-L/ PASO ROBLES USA DIEGO USA CCI3*-S/CCI3*-L/CCI2*-L DR. HART USA CAMPARI FFF USA LAGUNA SECA USA CINZANO USA CARAVAGGIO AUS HAPPINESS IS USA ADDYSON USA 09 - 11 CCI3*-S/ LIDGETON - DOLCOED RSA JEMADA JESTER RSA CCI2*-S/CCI1*-Intro WOW'S RJ RSA GIOVANNI RSA CALLAHO LISANDOR RSA WRAP UP RSA WRAP UP RSA PERIDOT RSA JUST JASPER AUS JUST JASPER AUS DAVENPORT RESOLUTION RSA 13 CEI1*100 GREOUX-LES-BAINS FRA DEMONJOI AL SHAQAB FRA BALKA DE SOMMANT FRA DANAT AL MONTASIR FRA VADJAL FRA 13 - 18 CSI4*/CSIJ-B/ MONTERREY MEX CLOCKWISE OF GREENHILL Z NZL CSICh-B/CSIAm-A ULRICH DU BOSCQ MEX TINO LA CHAPELLE MEX BOSTON ASK IRL STAN MEX HORTENSIA VAN DE LEEUWERK MEX PUERTAS LIZ MEX XUL HA MEX 14 - 18 CSIOY/CSIOJ/CSIYJ-A/ OPGLABBEEK BEL EASY KOLIBRA MO GER CSIOCh/CSIOP EYE OF THE TIGER BEL CONTIKI AH Z BEL PICOBELLE VAN DE BARTHOEVE BEL BINA NED VOODSTOCK DE L'ASTREE NED 14 - 18 CSI3*/CSI1*/CSIYH1* GORLA MINORE ITA CAIRON 10 FRA QUIN VON WORRENBERG Z FRA FORLAN VAN DE SPRENGENBERG NED LITTLE LUMPI E SUI COTTEE GBR PAXCRISTO VAN'T LAARHOF ITA ARAMIS DE LA BRESSE SUI 14 - 18 CSI2*/CSI1*/CSIYH1*/ AREZZO ITA KENTUCKY DV ITA CSIJ-B/CSICh-B/CSIP ARI DE KREISKER ITA CHACCO LOVER JR. -
“The Most Courageous Act Is Still to Think for Yourself. Aloud.” Coco Chanel
COCO CHANEL – MAVERICK TO ICON “The most courageous act is still to think for yourself. Aloud.” Coco Chanel Coco Chanel needs little introduction as a woman whose name has come to be synonymous with classic fashion and effortless style. During her lifetime she became the most famous female couturier in Europe and after her death was listed on the TIME’s 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century. Few know the story behind the rise of the woman behind the interlocking CC emblem that represents the multibillion-dollar, privately owned luxury goods Chanel empire of today. What can we learn from this pioneering businesswoman that is relevant to this day? Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel was born 19th August 1883. Her mother was an unmarried laundry woman. Her father a nomadic street vendor. The couple had five children, including young Coco Chanel, all living in a crowded one-room lodging. When Chanel was just 12 years old, her mother died of tuberculosis. Her brothers were sent to work as farm labourers, and Chanel and her sisters were sent to the convent Aubazine which ran an orphanage in central France. It was in this frugal and austere period of her childhood that Chanel learned to sew, the skill that would make her an international fashion icon. At age 18 Chanel moved to a boarding house for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins. She sought work as a seamstress and in her free time sang in a cabaret bar frequented by cavalry officers. By the time she was 23, Coco had come to realise she would not have a serious stage career. -
Trade Marks Inter Partes Decision O/605/19
O-605-19 TRADE MARKS ACT 1994 IN THE MATTER OF APPLICATION NO. 3282834 BY DEHA MAGAZACILIK EV TEKSTILI URUNLERI SANAYI VE TICARET ANONIM SIRKETI TO REGISTER THE TRADE MARK MADAMECOCO IN CLASSES 20 AND 35 AND IN THE MATTER OF OPPOSITION THERETO UNDER NO. 412631 BY CHANEL LIMITED BACKGROUND AND PLEADINGS 1) Deha Magazacilik ev Tekstili Urunleri Sanayi Ve Ticaret Anonim Sirketi (hereafter “the applicant”) applied to register the trade mark MADAMECOCO on 16 January 2018. It was published, for opposition purposes, in the Trade Mark Journal on 9 March 2018 in respect of a list of goods and services in classes 20 and 35. For the purposes of these proceedings, it is sufficient that I note that this list includes: Class 35: …; retail services connected with the sale of … tools and apparatus included in this class for shaving, epilation, manicure, pedicure and personal beauty care use, … electric hand implements for hair curling, scissors, … shaving brushes, hair brushes, combs, ... 2) Chanel Limited (hereafter “the opponent”) opposes the application only in respect of the services listed above. The opposition is based upon section 5(3) of the Trade Marks Act 1994 (“the Act”). The opponent relies on the following registration that consists of a series of two marks: UK Mark No. 2284766 Filing date: 6 November 2001 Registration date: 19 April 2002 The list of goods relied upon: Class 3: Preparations for application to or care of the skin, scalp, hair or nails; soaps; perfumes; …; non-medicated toilet preparations. Page 2 of 37 3) The opponent’s marks are earlier marks within the meaning of section 6(1) of the Trade Marks Act 1994 (“the Act”) because they have a filing date earlier than the filing date of the contested application. -
Department of Art & Design
Whitburn Academy Department of Art & Design Art & Design Studies Learners Higher: Art & Design Studies Design Analyse the factors influencing designers and design practice by Booklet Fashion 1.1 Describing how designers use a range of design materials, techniques and technology in their work 1.2 Analysing the impact of the designers’ creative choices in a range of design work 1.3 Analysing the impact of social and cultural influences on selected designers and their design practice. A study of Coco Chanel Day dress, ca. 1924 Gabrielle Theater suit, 1938, Gabrielle Evening dress, ca. 1926–27 "Coco" Chanel (French, 1883–1971) "Coco" Chanel (French, 1883– Attributed to Gabrielle "Coco" Wool 1971) Silk Chanel (French, 1883–1971) Silk, metallic threads, sequins What is Fashion Design? Fashion design is a form of art dedicated to the creation of clothing and other lifestyle accessories. Modern fashion design is divided into two basic categories: haute couture and ready-to-wear. The haute couture collection is dedicated to certain customers and is custom sized to fit these customers exactly. In order to qualify as a haute couture house, a designer has to be part of the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture and show a new collection twice a year presenting a minimum of 35 different outfits each time. Ready-to-wear collections are standard sized, not custom made, so they are more suitable for large production runs. They are also split into two categories: designer/creator and confection collections. Designer collections have a higher quality and finish as well as an unique design. They often represent a certain philosophy and are created to make a statement rather than for sale. -
Exclusively for Everybody
º SPECIAL REPORT LUXURY DECEMBER 13TH 2014 Exclusively for everybody 20141213_SRluxury.indd 1 02/12/2014 17:18 SPECIAL REPORT LUXURY Exclusively for everybody The modern luxury industry rests on a paradox—but is thriving nonetheless, says Brooke Unger AT THE TRANG TIEN PLAZA shopping mall in Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital, on some evenings a curious spectacle unfolds. Couples in wedding fin- erypose forphotographsin frontofilluminated shop windows, with Sal- vatore Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton and Gucci offering the sort of backdrop for romance more usually provided by the sea or the mountains. The women are not wearing Ferragamo’s ara pumps, with their distinctive bows, or toting uitton’s subtly monogrammed handbags. They cannot ¢ afford them. Tr¡an Cuon, who assembles mobile phones at a Sam- sung factory, posed with his fiancée in a brown suit and bow tie that cost him the equivalent of $150. Some day he hopes to become a customer in the mall. Until then, he will proudly display the photos in his home. To stumble across an out- post of European luxury in a rela- tively poor and nominally social- ist country is not all that sur- prising. Luxuries such as silk have travelled long distances for many centuries, and even modern lux- CONTENTS ury-goods makers have been pur- suing wealth in new places for 3 Definitions more than a century. Georges A rose by many names uitton, son of Louis, the inven- tor of the world’s most famous 3 History Saintly or sinful? luggage, showed off the com- pany’s flat-topped trunks (better 4 The business case for stacking than traditional Beauty and the beasts round-topped ones) at the Chica- go World’s Fair in 1893.