Change and Change About for Fashion in the Time of COVID 19 FBS C19 Issue 13 31.07.20
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Change and change about for fashion in the time of COVID 19 FBS C19 Issue 13 31.07.20 As we head towards the end of July and watch the world, it is obvious that changes are developing, evolving and emerging with the fashion world. Some prompted by new COVID 19 events, but also much as a response to the continuing effects of the virus. Often by this time of year much has been done, finished, closed and over; not so this year. Logic Prigent Dior Cruise, Valentino Haute Couture have all only recently offered fresh work and kept our attention instead of us only thinking only of a dream holiday destination, and the wardrobe to accompany it. As we approach the holiday season the idea cities will be deserted, beaches will be crowded is diminishing in strength as an established concept. Articles on the holiday wardrobe, essentials to pack, etc seem redundant for many. The allure of exotic markets, and local boutiques is for many off the planning this year. Luxury shops may be open but who are the shoppers, where indeed are the shoppers? There’s not much point in buying show off pieces, if there’s place or people to show off too. It’s not about being depressing, it’s not about gloom and doom, but it is about adapting, about watching and learning. Most of all it’s about entering another month of a global pandemic, and at the same time working in fashion. There isn’t going to be a sudden shift or dramatic recovery but the world is continuing and optimism is the key attitude. So now is the time to continue to watch, listen and think. Now is the time in fact, to take time. Chanel Chanel have for many years focussed on their unique Arts et Metiers shows. See below for the Wikipedia entry. Right now, for the luxury names the quality, the exclusivity and the investment is key to sale. Elaborate influencer links when people are not going to red carpet events, premieres, launches and galas is not happening. Oddly enough educating the clients, taking them behind the scenes, and welcoming them is a clever way of engaging them. Clients are able to explore why luxury is defined by quality, craft and expertise, it’s less about the instant since the time taken to make these pieces is incalculable. So, before and after the Chanel couture show Logic Prigent has delved “Paraffection S.A. is a subsidiary of Chanel, established in 1997 to preserve and promote the heritage, craft and manufacturing skills of fashion artisan workshops. The specialist workshops continue to be independent and are therefore free to supply and collaborate with other houses. Dominique Barbiery was appointed Director of Paraffection in 2009. In 1984 Chanel acquired the costume jewellery and button maker Desrues, and later the ateliers of Michel and Lemarié. Paraffection (which translates as 'for the love of') launched in 2002 with the acquisition of embroidery house Lesage and shoemaker Massaro. The establishment of the Métiers d’Arts collections showcases the work of the seven ateliers which made up Paraffection at that time and had collaborated with Chanel for decades. As of 2015, Paraffection has acquired twelve Ateliers d’Art or workshops: Desrues – ornamentation and buttons (established 1887, acquired by Chanel in 1985) Michel – milliner (established 1936, acquired by Paraffection in 1996) Lemarié – feathers and camellias (established 1880, acquired 1996) Lesage – embroidery (established 1868, acquired 2002) Massaro – shoemaker (established 1947, acquired 2002) Goossens – gold and silversmith (established in the 1950s, acquired 2005)[4] Guillet – maker of fabric flowers (established 1869, acquired 2006) Montex – embroidery (established 1939, acquired 2011)[5] Causse – glovemaker (established 1892, acquired 2012)[6] Barrie – a Scottish knitwear manufacturer (established in the 1870s, acquired 2012)[7] Les Ateliers Lognon – pleater (established 1945, acquired 2013) Lanel – embroidery (established 1949, acquired by Lesage 2013)” WOW! CHANEL: JOURNAL OF A COLLECTION! By Loic Prigent https://youtu.be/_waWz5gVa4s https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&ved=2ahUK Ewjz- c7v_e_qAhVL5uAKHcrqCUYQtwIwAXoECAAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue. com%2Ffashion-shows%2Ffall-2020- couture%2Fchanel&usg=AOvVaw34SoxqXLWLJqxno_lCRmtP https://www.savoirflair.com/fashion/504213/chanel-fall-2020-couture-review Valentino Haute Couture Filmed at the mythical Cinicitta Movie Studios in Rome, the Valentino collaboration with Nick Knight offered a wonderful mix of elements. If it seemed unwilling to challenge creatively, then perhaps his isn’t the moment. The use of all white with shimmering silver recalled the Viktor & Rolf Immaculate Collection shown in July 2018, whilst the elongated silhouettes recalled the Azzedine Alaïa exhibition at the Barbican conceived Mark Wilson of the Groninger Museum. The presentation was haunted by Fellini and Visconti with the trapeze so much beloved of Fellini perhaps recalling Sandro Milo in Guilietta degli Spiriti and the vast Piero Tosi ballgowns from Il Gattopardo. Respecting and referencing the deeply Italian heritage of the house is truly harmonious. Some years ago, when I asked Mr Valentino about his favourite cinema, Visconti was the first name to appear. The pieces were fantasy wedding dresses or prototypes from a dream of dresses, and will certainly appear in variations both for occasions and gala’s, whenever they may return. However, it is very important today to think of intimate and private splendour, of a touch of secrecy and the hidden as perhaps the newest and most luxurious of times. Publicity and flaunting, ostentation and obviousness, these things may not be in fashion for some time. Valentino Haute Couture FW 20-21 | Live Performance https://youtu.be/y3bVS4DLpuI Menswear Extras Although technically the menswear weeks are over, collections keep popping up that I may have missed or are late entries. Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Spring 2021 | Milan Digital Fashion Week https://youtu.be/hNbewRf9unM https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&ved=2ahUK EwiRpIf2hPDqAhUNnhQKHcoEBjUQtwIwAnoECAUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww. vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fspring-2021-menswear%2Fyohji- yamamoto&usg=AOvVaw24loSXF-FQL65RbDPDBfGZ https://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/fashion/from-wild-west-styling-to-sparse- silhouettes-trends-from-milan-digital-men-s-fashion-week-1.1050934 https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKE witnb3KjfDqAhWJ0eAKHQdPDTw4FBAWMAZ6BAgIEAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstefa nkaelin.com%2F%3Ftreat%3Dfashion-shows%2Fresort-2021-menswear%2Ftod- s&usg=AOvVaw15J0UccTrueZnI43wyLvLe Haute Couture Extras The wonderful thing about all the online films and new forms of show it the opportunity for behind the scenes stories. Plus of course how it was made and now designers talking about their work. It’s a window opened onto the intense passion which drives all the people in these creative teams, it is how we see such amazing stuff and it’s why, right now in the middle, still, on a global pandemic we need fashion. Stephane Rolland interview https://nowfashion.com/video-stephane-rolland-haute-couture-2020-exclusive- interview-29871 https://www.hindustantimes.com/photos/fashion-and-trends/dior-cruise-collection- 2021-behind-the-scenes/photo-L1jVs8GcQDRPLRtOMr0BBO.html Christian Dior Cruise Dior - Savoir Faire and Cruise Apparently postponed from May, the Dior Cruise collection produced a flurry of rumours and stories. However, in the final analysis this was pretty much in the footsteps of the North African and other culturally inspired stories from María Grazia Chiuri, and the audience was pretty much invisible, as with Valentino. The key element is the attention to detail and hand craft, offering the customers across the globe good reasons to buy, good reasons for the high prices. It also offers good reasons why much of this level of designer purchase will hold or even increase its value. Obviously at this level few pieces are produced and even if not labelled “Limited Edition” that’s what this becomes. This particularly applies, of course, to the more decorated and elaborate pieces. https://youtu.be/T5pBRKED0Bc https://youtu.be/n6ukyWO2tFU https://youtu.be/w3pK57hsAFM https://youtu.be/Ko7BfsL66u8 https://youtu.be/P6D2JdusED0 https://youtu.be/PNH0GqOpWrI https://youtu.be/WjBBD9oE1iY https://youtu.be/kW0rlNuQxJA Resort Burberry and Bottega Veneta are certainly names and brands to reckon with. The designers at the helm, Daniel Lee and Riccardo Tisci, are not going to skip a season or go basic. The clear statement from many houses is, “life goes on in fashion” nothing changes, we will work around it. Have a check out and see what you think about these looks, and methods of shooting in lockdown. Like menswear and couture the collections keep coming, the houses, keep producing clothes, and the designers and their teams, however they are working and wherever are coming up with new things all the time. Is this admirable or foolhardy? I leave you to decide, but I would also ask the question; where are the customers and when and where will they wear these clothes? https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/g32960628/resort-fashion- 2021/ https://wwd.com/runway/resort-2021/ https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/g33334727/see-resort- 2021-collections-photos/ https://firstclasse.com.my/cruise-resort-2021-collections/ https://lofficielbaltics.com/en/fashion/a-journey-to-romantic-russia-with-maxmara https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKE wjlrfbOhfDqAhUN_RQKHSaDD0QQFjAAegQIBhAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue