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Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino: Full Transcript of the Interview
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino C1046/09 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. THE NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Ref. No.: C1046/09 Playback No.: F15198-99; F15388-90; F15531-35; F15591-92 Collection title: An Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Savage Title: Mr Interviewee’s forenames: Percy Sex: Occupation: Date of birth: 12.10.1926 Mother’s occupation: Father’s occupation: Date(s) of recording: 04.06.2004; 11.06.2004; 02.07.2004; 09.07.2004; 16.07.2004 Location of interview: Name of interviewer: Linda Sandino Type of recorder: Marantz Total no. of tapes: 12 Type of tape: C60 Mono or stereo: stereo Speed: Noise reduction: Original or copy: original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: Interview is open. Copyright of BL Interviewer’s comments: Percy Savage Page 1 C1046/09 Tape 1 Side A (part 1) Tape 1 Side A [part 1] .....to plug it in? No we don’t. Not unless something goes wrong. [inaudible] see well enough, because I can put the [inaudible] light on, if you like? Yes, no, lovely, lovely, thank you. -
Issue 15 Inspired by L.A
OTIS COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN MAGAZINE SPRING 2014 in this issue: 04 - ALUMNI AND FACULTY ISSUE 15 INSPIRED BY L.A. 06 - KEEPING IT SIMPLE AND FRESH: MEG CRANSTON 18 - OTIS REPORT ON THE CREATIVE ECONOMY: 1 IN 10 JOBS IN CA I remember L.A. as blackety-black shadows cast from brutalist blocks that take the history of architecture and reduce and contain it silently, like lunary tombs or Aztec temples morphed into Fome-Cor® cartoons. This kind of light makes decisions easier, more black and white. Good-vs-bad, pure-vs- impure, aspiration-vs-collapse, determined grim optimism-vs-self-indulgent despair. The suggestion of an old Hollywood mono- lithic black-and-white movie set encourages self-invention and self-consciousness as you make your way down an imaginary long white staircase. There’s not another living soul on the set and the spotlight is on you, wiping out any flaw or imperfection, hallucinating yourself into who you wanna be … exactly how I remember it … forward Fashion designer Rick Owens (’81) moved from L.A. to Paris in 2003. 01 03 05 06 1. George Maitland Stanley (’24) 2. Kent Twitchell (’77 MFA) 3. Judithe Hernández (’74 MFA) 4. Insung Kim (’97) 5. Robert Irwin (’50) 6. Hillary Jaye (’90) Muses Fountain, Hollywood Bowl Harbor Freeway Overture mural, New Spring, mural for the Expo Line for Hunt Design Associates The Central Garden, The Getty for Sussman/Prezja & Co. 1938 1993 Terminus Station in Santa Monica, Identity and wayfinding program Center, 1997 Wayfinding and bus graphics Photo courtesy: Hollywood Bowl opening in 2016 for downtown L.A. -
Virtuososym Virtuoso Symposium South African Airways Cape Town 2016 Welcomes You to Cape Town
#VIRTUOSOSYM VIRTUOSO SYMPOSIUM SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS CAPE TOWN 2016 WELCOMES YOU TO CAPE TOWN South Africa is delighted to host the 2016 Virtuoso Symposium. As the national April 17, 2016 carrier, South African Airways is honored to be chosen as the offi cial airline for the Symposium. We extend to you a warm welcome to Cape Town and thank you Dear Virtuosos, for your support. Welcome to Cape Town! How appropriate that we meet for our 36th annual Virtuoso Symposium in the Mother City, a destination known for its cultural diversity, warmth, and sense of community. When I first talked about communities last August at Virtuoso Travel Week, I quoted Simon Sinek’s definition: “A group who agrees to grow together.” In effect, we’re the 2016 Symposium community who are here to forge stronger bonds through shared travel experiences, so please take a moment to join me in thanking our Symposium sponsor partners who play such an integral role in how we’ll experience South Africa together. They’re all featured in the pages that follow. The Virtuoso Events team and our Cape Town hosts have really outdone themselves with spectacular venues and personal touches topped with a myriad of Design Your Day activities to fully immerse your- self in South Africa. Whether wine lands or peninsula, sidecar ride or city walk, philanthropic or retail therapy, we’ve got you covered. Of course, we have you covered on the business side of Symposium as well. We’ll hear from three com- pelling speakers: Eric McNulty – Director of Research, Harvard’s National Preparedness Leadership Ini- tiative, Dave Pavelko – Partnerships Director, Travel – Google Inc., and David Scowsill – President and CEO, World Travel & Tourism Council. -
INSIDE THIS ISSUE Fashion Lion
the Albright College FAshion DepArtment neWsletter • FAll 2011 FASHION LION What’s Hot at Albright? African Textile Design INSIDE THIS ISSUE Designers and Mass Marketing Meet the Faculty: Kendra Meyer, M.F.A. Letter from the Editor EVERYTHI NG by Mary Rose Davis ’15 Dear Readers, Welcome to our first issue of the Fashion OLD Lion! Previously, the fashion newsletter was Incorporating vintage fashion into modern looks is easy. called Seventh on Thirteenth, a play on words that mimicked Seventh on Sixth where “Thanks, it’s vintage,” is possibly one of the coolest things you can say when New York City’s Fashion Week was held receiving a compliment on your outfit. for many years. With the relocation of the With fashion trends from the past becoming more popular, it’s important to fashion week events uptown to the Lincoln know how to incorporate these trends into your style without looking “dated.” Center, we held a contest this semester to come up with a new Once you do, you’ll have a whole new — or old as the case may be — look. name for the newsletter. Congratulations to fashion design and First, you can’t wear it if you don’t own it. So get your fashionable self to the merchandising major Monica Tulay ’12 for the winning entry. closest thrift store or just raid your parents’ closet and find that perfect piece for For me, this change in name serves as a symbol of my years you. One thing to keep in mind is that it’s always easier to start with smaller items at Albright. -
Riding Lesson
BADGLEY MISCHKA GOES BRIDGE/2 BURSTELL TO BERGDORF’S/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 21, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Riding Lesson PARIS — While Nicolas Ghesquière says his cruise collection for Balenciaga is baroque-inspired, the designer also appears to have channeled the horsey set. Here, an illustration: a Javanese jacket, ecru silk chiffon ruffled shirt and cotton gabardine jodhpurs. For more on cruise, see pages 6 and 7. Cruising Past Spring: Resort’s Importance Overshadows Runway By WWD Staff PARIS — For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working overtime. Indeed, the season has so far eclipsed runway collections in scale and growth that some are questioning the logic of the current international fashion calendar, stopping short of demanding an immediate upheaval. As designers put more fashion into their pre-collection deliveries, retailers are less and less dependent on runway shipments to drive sales and profitability, said Jim Gold, Bergdorf Goodman’s See Cruise, Page8 PHOTO DOMINIQUE BY MAITRE 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM Badgley Mischka Sets Bridge Line By Rosemary Feitelberg decision was far from rash. enues that more people can af- WWDTUESDAY “We’ve been doing Badgley ford to buy,” Mischka said. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Spring, the sea- Mischka for 16 years. Yes, we’re Many customers can afford to son for renewal, has not been ready,” he said. “This is some- buy only one couture piece a sea- GENERAL lost on Mark Badgley and James thing we have wanted to do for a son even though they have many For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working Mischka, considering the pair long time. -
Glitter Text
All That Glitters – Spark and Dazzle from the Permananent Collection co-curated by Janine LeBlanc and Roger Manley Randy and Susan Woodson Gallery January 23 – July 12, 2020 Through the ages, every human society has demonstrated a fascination with shiny objects. Necklaces made of glossy marine snail shells have been dated back nearly 135,000 years, while shiny crystals have been found in prehistoric burials, suggesting the allure they once held for their original owners. The pageantry of nearly every religion has long been enhanced by dazzling displays, from the gilded statues of Buddhist temples and the gleaming mosaics of Muslim mosques and Byzantine churches, to the bejeweled altarpieces and reliquaries of Gothic cathedrals. As both kings and gods, Hawaiian and Andean royalty alike donned garments entirely covered with brilliant feathers to proclaim their significance, while their counterparts in other cultures wore crowns of gold and gems. High status and desirability have always been signaled by the transformative effects of reflected light. Recent research indicates that our brains may be hard-wired to associate glossy surfaces with water (tinyurl.com/glossy-as-water). If so, the impulse drawing us toward them may have evolved as a survival mechanism. There may also be subconscious associations with other survival necessities. Gold has been linked to fire or the sun, the source of heat, light, and plant growth. The glitter of beads or sequins may evoke nighttime stars needed for finding one’s way. The flash of jewels may recall an instinctive association with eyes. In jungles as well as open grasslands, both prey and predator can be so well camouflaged that only the glint of an eye might reveal a lurking presence. -
Oddo Forum Lyon, January 7&8, 2016
Oddo Forum Lyon, January 7&8, 2016 Contents V Interparfums V Stock market V 2015 highlights V 2015 & 2016 highlights by brand V 2015 & 2016 results 2 Interparfums ___ 3 Interparfums V An independent "pure player" in the perfume and cosmetics industry V A creator, manufacturer and distributor of prestige perfumes based on a portfolio of international luxury brands 44 Brand portfolio V Brand licenses under exclusive worldwide agreements ° S.T. Dupont (1997 2016) ° Paul Smith (1998 2017) ° Van Cleef & Arpels (2007 2018) ° Montblanc (2010 2020 2025) ° Jimmy Choo (2010 2021) ° Boucheron (2011 2025) ° Balmain (2012 2024) ° Repetto (2012 2025) ° Karl Lagerfeld (2012 2032) ° Coach (2016 2026) V Proprietary brands ° Lanvin (perfumes) (2007) ° Rochas (perfumes & fashion) (2015) 5 License agreements V The license grants a right to use the brand V Over a long-term period (10 years, 15 years, 20 years or more) V In exchange for meeting qualitative obligations: ° Distribution network ° Number of launches ° Nature of advertising expenses… V and quantitative obligations ° Royalties (procedures for calculation, amount and minimum commitment) ° Advertising expenses (budgets, amount and minimum commitment) 6 The brands . A bold luxury fashion brand . Collections with distinctive style for an elegant and glamorous woman . 17 brand name stores . A 12-year license agreement executed in 2012 . One of the world’s most prestigious jewelers . A sensual and feminine universe . Boucheron creations render women resplendent . A 15-year license agreement executed in 2010 7 The brands . A brand created in 1941 with a rich and authentic American heritage . A global leader in premium handbags and lifestyle accessories . 3,000 doors worldwide . -
JANET HERNANDEZ 933 2Nd St
JANET HERNANDEZ 933 2nd St. #202 Santa Monica, CA 90403 . 3104036051 . [email protected] A focused independent self- starter, motivated, highly creative individual with great trend/fashion eye with passionate entrepreneurial-like views and opinions. Established an effective network within the fashion industry with key PR/marketers, thought-leaders, stylists, photographers and dreamers! PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE styleLUST August 2013 – Current Santa Monica, California Owner/Designer & Creative Consultant – Swimwear/Resortwear/Activewear/Sportswear • SPANX - Consultant & Creative Direction - Brand relaunch of Swimwear & Activewear • Erland Creative – Business Card Design Perry Ellis International – LAUNDRY by Shelli Segal /JANTZEN Los Angeles, California Designer - Swimwear/Cover-Ups/Resortwear March 2010 – Nov 2013 • Launched and managed the successful debut of Laundry by Shelli Segal Swimwear Cruise 2012. • Create a compelling lifestyle brand experience for consumers and buyers: Cruise/Spring/ Summer 2012, 2013 and currently 2014 collections (Laundry by Shelli Segal). • Responsible for steady market growth with leading vendors. • Design and direct Jantzen 2014 Cruise Collection as of Aug 2012-Nov 2013. • Manage and execute all aspects of design- from concept to production, trend research and development, color analysis and direction, print/fabric/trim design and development, draping, pattern and garment construction knowledge, garment fittings, targeting fit and quality problems, identify and resolve issues, manage and direct assistant -
Vogue Magazine the Glossy Has Spawned an Industry of Imitators, Two Documentaries, a Major Hollywood Film And, Perhaps Most Enduringly, a Modern Dance Craze
Lookout By the Numbers Vogue Magazine The glossy has spawned an industry of imitators, two documentaries, a major Hollywood film and, perhaps most enduringly, a modern dance craze. Itís also gone through some serious changes over the course of its 121 years in print. In recent years, the fashion bible has traded willowy models for celebrities of all kinds, a trend that reached its apex in April when the left-leaning, Chanel-shaded Brit Anna Wintour (the magazineís seventh editor in chief) decided to put ó gasp! ó a reality star on its cover. But even with young upstarts nipping at its Manolos, the periodical that popularized tights and the L.B.D. continues to thrive under its time-tested principle. That is, while other magazines 15 teach women whatís new in fashion, Vogue teaches them whatís in vogue. Approx. age at which Anna Wintour Here, a look at the facts and figures behind fashionís foremost franchise. — JEFF OLOIZIA established her signature bob $200,000 13% Wintour’s rumoredored annual clothing allowance of covers featuring celebrities during Wintour’s first five years 916 PagesP in the Favorite cover model by editor: SeptemberSepte 2012 issue, Anna Wintour: Vogue’sVogue largest to date 93% AMBER VALLETTA Vogue’sVoVogue’gue’ longest tenuredd editors:editors: of covers featuringg celebritiesc 17x over the last five years (still on the masthead)d) Diana Vreeland: Anna Wintour – 29 years A samplingsampling BRIGITTE BAUER Phyllis Posnick – 27 years of the 19 exotic exotic & animalsanimalsimals in fashionfashi on JEAN SHRIMPTON Grace Coddington – 26 years 19x each spreadsspreads Hamish Bowles – 22 years alongsideala ongside famous famous Reigning cover queen ladies:ladies:dies: 37 CheetahC (Kim Basinger, April ‘88) Number of years the longest ElephantEle (Keira Knightley, June ‘07) 26 reigning editor in chief served (Edna Woolman Chase, 1914-1951) SkunkSk (Reese Witherspoon, June ‘03) Number of times Lauren Hutton has fronted the magazine GibbonGi (Marisa Berenson, March ‘65) 8 (Nastassja Kinski, Oct. -
The Independent Magazine September 2003 P. 6-10 Foreign
The Independent Magazine September 2003 p. 6-10 Foreign bodies Think Nineties grunge-chic, and you’re probably thinking of a Juergen Teller Image. But, as the photographer tells Sebastian Smee, while he’s still fascinated with the wilder shores of fashion, his work is moving ever closer to home. Portrait by Gautier Deblonde THIS ONE will take some explaining. The photographer Juergen Teller pauses for a good 10 seconds, then ruffles his hair. I have asked about the circumstances that gave rise to the somewhat surreal image you see above. The sprouting flora, I have already learnt, is not an overgrown hedge: it’s a resplendent version of the artist Jeff Koons’s most famous work. Puppy. Nor is that a discarded Barbie doll straddling one of its ears: it’s the American supermodel Stephanie Seymour. This, as it happens, is Seymour’s place in Connecticut: her freshly mown lawn, her Puppy, and — not far out of shot — her 100 horses, her two swimming pools, her world- class collection of haute couture, her collection of late 20th-century art... “I guess I met Stephanie around ‘94,” begins Teller. We are on the ground floor of his studio and home in London’s Ladbroke Grove. A table in the middle of the room is piled with prints of photographs. There is a scale model of a gallery on the floor, which Teller and his assistants are using to plan the hanging of his September exhibition at Milton Keynes Gallery; at the far end of the room is a doorway and stairs leading up (to his studio) and down (to his living quarters). -
Sunday Morning Grid 1/15/17 Latimes.Com/Tv Times
SUNDAY MORNING GRID 1/15/17 LATIMES.COM/TV TIMES 7 am 7:30 8 am 8:30 9 am 9:30 10 am 10:30 11 am 11:30 12 pm 12:30 2 CBS CBS News Sunday Face the Nation (N) Paid Program College Basketball Michigan State at Ohio State. (N) Å 4 NBC News (N) Å Meet the Press (N) (TVG) Football Night in America Football Pittsburgh Steelers at Kansas City Chiefs. (10:05) (N) 5 CW News (N) Å News (N) Å In Touch Paid Program 7 ABC News (N) Å This Week News (N) News (N) News Å Paid Program Eye on L.A. 9 KCAL News (N) Joel Osteen Schuller Pastor Mike Paid Program 11 FOX In Touch Paid Fox News Sunday Planet Weird DIY Sci Paid Program 13 MyNet Paid Matter Paid Program Best Buys Paid Program 18 KSCI Paid Program Church Faith Paid Program 22 KWHY Local Local Local Local Local Local Local Local Local Local Local Local 24 KVCR Paint With Painting Joy of Paint Wyland’s Paint This Painting Cook Mexico Martha Hubert Baking Mexican 28 KCET 1001 Nights Bug Bites Bug Bites Edisons Biz Kid$ Biz Kid$ Forever Painless With Miranda Age Fix With Dr. Anthony Youn 30 ION Jeremiah Youssef In Touch Leverage Å Leverage Å Leverage Å Leverage Å 34 KMEX Conexión En contacto Paid Program Fútbol Central (N) Fútbol Mexicano Primera División República Deportiva (N) 40 KTBN Walk in the Win Walk Prince Carpenter Jesse In Touch PowerPoint It Is Written Pathway Super Kelinda John Hagee 46 KFTR Paid Program Escape From New York ››› (1981) Kurt Russell. -
Press Release
Puig Revenues reached €1,790 Million with 9% Growth in 2016 ▪ Net Income was €155 Million, an increase of 23% versus 2015 ▪ The company is still on track to reach its objective of €2 Billion in revenues in 2017 Barcelona, April 24, 2017 Puig Net Revenues reached €1,790 Million in 2016, which represents a growth of 9% in reported net revenues and a 5% rise on a like-for-like and constant currency basis. Profit Before Tax represented 12% of Net Revenues. Net Income reached €155 million, or 9% of revenues. Evolution of Net Revenues and Profit (2015-2016) In millions of euros 2015 2016 A15/A16 (1) Net Revenues 1,645 1,790 9% 5% Profit Before Tax (PBT) 181 215 19% Corporate Tax -50 -56 Taxes/PBT -28% -26% Net Income 126 155 23% Despite the additional costs related to the integration of Jean Paul Gaultier in 2016, Puig improved profitability with respect to 2015 in line with its three-year strategic plan ending in 2017. Worldwide Presence 2016 % of revenues outside Spain 85% % of revenues in emerging markets (2) 44% (1) On a like-for-like and constant currency basis (2) Outside the European Union and North America Geographical Breakdown In 2016, 15% of revenues were generated in Spain and 85% in the rest of the world. Emerging markets 1 EXTERNAL CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS outside the European Union and North America accounted for 44% of the company’s business. Puig had 4,430 employees in 2016, 40% of whom worked in Spain. All Puig fragrances were manufactured in the company’s production centers in France and Spain.