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BADGLEY MISCHKA GOES BRIDGE/2 BURSTELL TO BERGDORF’S/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 21, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Riding Lesson PARIS — While Nicolas Ghesquière says his cruise collection for Balenciaga is baroque-inspired, the designer also appears to have channeled the horsey set. Here, an illustration: a Javanese jacket, ecru silk chiffon ruffled shirt and cotton gabardine jodhpurs. For more on cruise, see pages 6 and 7. Cruising Past Spring: Resort’s Importance Overshadows Runway By WWD Staff PARIS — For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working overtime. Indeed, the season has so far eclipsed runway collections in scale and growth that some are questioning the logic of the current international fashion calendar, stopping short of demanding an immediate upheaval. As designers put more fashion into their pre-collection deliveries, retailers are less and less dependent on runway shipments to drive sales and profitability, said Jim Gold, Bergdorf Goodman’s See Cruise, Page8 PHOTO DOMINIQUE BY MAITRE 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM Badgley Mischka Sets Bridge Line By Rosemary Feitelberg decision was far from rash. enues that more people can af- WWDTUESDAY “We’ve been doing Badgley ford to buy,” Mischka said. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Spring, the sea- Mischka for 16 years. Yes, we’re Many customers can afford to son for renewal, has not been ready,” he said. “This is some- buy only one couture piece a sea- GENERAL lost on Mark Badgley and James thing we have wanted to do for a son even though they have many For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working Mischka, considering the pair long time. Our store base has special events to attend, so the 1 overtime, eclipsing fall and spring runway collections in scale and growth. signed a deal for a bridge collec- been asking for this for years.” sharper-priced collection will Former Henri Bendel executive Ed Burstell was named senior vice president tion Monday — their brand’s Badgley Mischka also has give them options. In addition, and general merchandise manager at Bergdorf Goodman. third licensing agreement in found a new showroom at 550 the couture customer will buy the 2 five weeks. Seventh Avenue, where design- line for more relaxed and at- Badgley Mischka’s parent, Candie’s Inc., has signed a licensing deal with Badgley Mischka’s parent ers such as Oscar de la Renta and home occasions, Mischka said. 2 Groupe JS International for a bridge collection to launch next spring. company, Candie’s Inc., which Donna Karan also reside. The The easier-on-the-wallet prices In a move that should quell concerns over its debt and cash positions, Saks bought the designer label from company expects to relocate to should attract women between 3 Inc. said Monday it intends to repurchase $1.2 billion worth of debt. Escada last October, has finalized the 8,200-square-foot space, the ages of 20 and 50 — compared a licensing deal with Groupe JS which is quadruple the size of its with women between the ages of EYE: Talking with Ian Schrager about his full-service residences at 50 Gramercy International here for a bridge temporary West 40th Street show- 30 and 50 who already buy the ex- 4 Park South…Spinning with ceramicist Amanda Moffat…A blue note. collection that will be launched room, in early October. Designed isting collection, Mischka said. FASHION: Nicolas Ghesquière’s cruise line for Balenciaga has an 18th-century for spring 2006 retail selling. with a modernist approach and a Fran Ornstein, a 22-year vet- 6 flair, Jean Paul Gaultier muses on African tribalism and Rena Lange goes Vegas. Through a strategic partnership nod to traditional glamour, the eran of Chetta B, has joined RTW: Chetta B is a rare Seventh Avenue animal, an independent breed that with Candie’s, Groupe JS Inter- new showroom, which will house Groupe JS as vice president of has been run by the same person with the same designers for 25 years. national already produces the de- both collections, will have a resi- sales and merchandising for the 10 signer’s high-end collection. dential feel with padded silk new division. Don O’Neill is an- TEXTILES: The safeguard quota issue loomed large over exhibitors and In the past month, Candie’s walls and dark marble tabletops. other new hire, as design direc- 11 buyers at the China Textile & Apparel trade show in New York. also gave the go-ahead for a li- Initially, the 40-piece bridge tor. He spent the last decade Wal-Mart Stores Inc. defended its use of apparel contractors in Bangladesh censing deal with Pristine Fash- collection will focus on cocktail working at Carmen Marc Valvo. 12 after a “Dateline NBC” report on alleged workplace violations in a factory. ion Group for a rollout of Badgley dresses and eveningwear, but fu- The bridge collection will be Mischka stores, and with Riviera ture shipments will include day- previewed in August and will Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 Concepts for fragrance and other into-evening pieces. Unlike the launch in September. The de- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is beauty products. existing collection, which retails signers have not decided if they [email protected], using the individual’s name. Candie’s chief executive offi- in the thousands of dollars, the will show any of it on the runway WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 cer, Neil Cole, said, “We think new collection will retail from at 7th on Sixth in September, FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. there is a tremendous opportuni- $500 to $1,500. The designers ex- where they plan to show their VOLUME 189, NO. 130. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ty to bring red-carpet luxury and pect the new group to be a hit high-end eveningwear. additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL glamour to a broader audience with women who are familiar Having secured deals for OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., of women.” with their label, but until now, bridge, eyewear, handbags, furs, Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, The designers and Cole went could not afford it. bridal and the aforementioned Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- back and forth about whether this “We’ve been spending a long fragrance and freestanding President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at was the right time to pursue such time building up the reputation stores, Badgley Mischka is consid- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, a venture. But as Badgley said in and image of the brand, and now ering adding signature footwear ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR a phone interview Monday, the we want to expand to broader av- and lingerie. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Bergdorf Names Burstell GMM screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED By David Moin and finally, general manager, re- will have a narrower focus on MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND sponsible for all merchandising product and merchandising, but TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED NEW YORK — For some of its and store management functions. for a much larger business, ac- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE fastest-growing, highest-margin Bendel’s has long been a cording to Jim Gold, president ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.