BADGLEY MISCHKA GOES BRIDGE/2 BURSTELL TO BERGDORF’S/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 21, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Riding Lesson PARIS — While Nicolas Ghesquière says his cruise collection for Balenciaga is baroque-inspired, the designer also appears to have channeled the horsey set. Here, an illustration: a Javanese jacket, ecru silk chiffon ruffled shirt and cotton gabardine jodhpurs. For more on cruise, see pages 6 and 7.

Cruising Past Spring: Resort’s Importance Overshadows Runway By WWD Staff PARIS — For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working overtime. Indeed, the season has so far eclipsed runway collections in scale and growth that some are questioning the logic of the current international fashion calendar, stopping short of demanding an immediate upheaval. As designers put more fashion into their pre-collection deliveries, retailers are less and less dependent on runway shipments to drive sales and profitability, said Jim Gold, Bergdorf Goodman’s See Cruise, Page8 PHOTO DOMINIQUE BY MAITRE 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM Badgley Mischka Sets Bridge Line By Rosemary Feitelberg decision was far from rash. enues that more people can af- WWDTUESDAY “We’ve been doing Badgley ford to buy,” Mischka said. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Spring, the sea- Mischka for 16 years. Yes, we’re Many customers can afford to son for renewal, has not been ready,” he said. “This is some- buy only one couture piece a sea- GENERAL lost on Mark Badgley and James thing we have wanted to do for a son even though they have many For a season originally inspired by vacations, cruise is certainly working Mischka, considering the pair long time. Our store base has special events to attend, so the 1 overtime, eclipsing fall and spring runway collections in scale and growth. signed a deal for a bridge collec- been asking for this for years.” sharper-priced collection will Former Henri Bendel executive Ed Burstell was named senior vice president tion Monday — their brand’s Badgley Mischka also has give them options. In addition, and general merchandise manager at Bergdorf Goodman. third licensing agreement in found a new showroom at 550 the couture customer will buy the 2 five weeks. Seventh Avenue, where design- line for more relaxed and at- Badgley Mischka’s parent, Candie’s Inc., has signed a licensing deal with Badgley Mischka’s parent ers such as Oscar de la Renta and home occasions, Mischka said. 2 Groupe JS International for a bridge collection to launch next spring. company, Candie’s Inc., which Donna Karan also reside. The The easier-on-the-wallet prices In a move that should quell concerns over its debt and cash positions, Saks bought the designer label from company expects to relocate to should attract women between 3 Inc. said Monday it intends to repurchase $1.2 billion worth of debt. Escada last October, has finalized the 8,200-square-foot space, the ages of 20 and 50 — compared a licensing deal with Groupe JS which is quadruple the size of its with women between the ages of EYE: Talking with Ian Schrager about his full-service residences at 50 Gramercy International here for a bridge temporary West 40th Street show- 30 and 50 who already buy the ex- 4 Park South…Spinning with ceramicist Amanda Moffat…A blue note. collection that will be launched room, in early October. Designed isting collection, Mischka said. FASHION: Nicolas Ghesquière’s cruise line for Balenciaga has an 18th-century for spring 2006 retail selling. with a modernist approach and a Fran Ornstein, a 22-year vet- 6 flair, Jean Paul Gaultier muses on African tribalism and Rena Lange goes Vegas. Through a strategic partnership nod to traditional glamour, the eran of Chetta B, has joined RTW: Chetta B is a rare Seventh Avenue animal, an independent breed that with Candie’s, Groupe JS Inter- new showroom, which will house Groupe JS as vice president of has been run by the same person with the same designers for 25 years. national already produces the de- both collections, will have a resi- sales and merchandising for the 10 signer’s high-end collection. dential feel with padded silk new division. Don O’Neill is an- TEXTILES: The safeguard quota issue loomed large over exhibitors and In the past month, Candie’s walls and dark marble tabletops. other new hire, as design direc- 11 buyers at the China Textile & Apparel trade show in New York. also gave the go-ahead for a li- Initially, the 40-piece bridge tor. He spent the last decade Wal-Mart Stores Inc. defended its use of apparel contractors in Bangladesh censing deal with Pristine Fash- collection will focus on cocktail working at Carmen Marc Valvo. 12 after a “Dateline NBC” report on alleged workplace violations in a factory. ion Group for a rollout of Badgley dresses and eveningwear, but fu- The bridge collection will be Mischka stores, and with Riviera ture shipments will include day- previewed in August and will Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 Concepts for fragrance and other into-evening pieces. Unlike the launch in September. The de- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is beauty products. existing collection, which retails signers have not decided if they [email protected], using the individual’s name. Candie’s chief executive offi- in the thousands of dollars, the will show any of it on the runway WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 cer, Neil Cole, said, “We think new collection will retail from at 7th on Sixth in September, FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. there is a tremendous opportuni- $500 to $1,500. The designers ex- where they plan to show their VOLUME 189, NO. 130. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ty to bring red-carpet luxury and pect the new group to be a hit high-end eveningwear. additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL glamour to a broader audience with women who are familiar Having secured deals for OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., of women.” with their label, but until now, bridge, eyewear, handbags, furs, Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, The designers and Cole went could not afford it. bridal and the aforementioned Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- back and forth about whether this “We’ve been spending a long fragrance and freestanding President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at was the right time to pursue such time building up the reputation stores, Badgley Mischka is consid- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, a venture. But as Badgley said in and image of the brand, and now ering adding signature footwear ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR a phone interview Monday, the we want to expand to broader av- and lingerie. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Bergdorf Names Burstell GMM screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED By David Moin and finally, general manager, re- will have a narrower focus on MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND sponsible for all merchandising product and merchandising, but TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED NEW YORK — For some of its and store management functions. for a much larger business, ac- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE fastest-growing, highest-margin Bendel’s has long been a cording to Jim Gold, president ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. businesses, Bergdorf Goodman struggling division of Limited and chief executive officer of has a new merchant: Ed Burstell, Brands, but Burstell, who left the Bergdorf Goodman. The gmm’s the former general manager and store in July 2004, succeeded in all report to Gold. vice president of Henri Bendel. raising the retailer’s visibility. He “Shoes are the heart and soul On Monday, Burstell was did this by bringing designers of our store,” said Gold. “Our In Brief named Bergdorf ’s senior vice and brands such as Diane von shoe floor [on two] has become president and general merchan- Furstenberg, Rick Owens, Nuala, an iconic place to shop.” Gold ● HOT GETS COOL: Teen retailer Hot Topic announced Monday dise manager for footwear, cos- Catherine Malandrino and Flight cited several key brands includ- that it is cutting its outlook for second-quarter earnings after metics, fine and fashion jewelry, 001 to a business that had long ing Manolo Blahnik, Prada, same-store sales through June 20 dropped 4 percent. Hot Topic handbags and soft accessories. had difficulty in attracting mean- Christian Laboutin, Gucci, Tod’s now forecasts second-quarter income of 7 to 9 cents a diluted He starts his new job on July 5. ingful labels and was heavily de- and Chanel. “The business is share on sales of $155 million to $158 million. Nasdaq-listed Burstell basically succeeds pendent on private label mer- phenomenal, but we have signifi- shares of Hot Topic were halted for late trading, having closed Muriel Gonzalez, who in Febru- chandise. He also revamped the cant plans for continued growth, down 7 cents at $20.40. “We are clearly disappointed by our sum- ary joined Ann Taylor Stores cosmetics floor, which became particularly with the addition of mer sales results thus far into the quarter,” chief executive offi- Corp. as executive vice president the store’s main attraction, with contemporary shoes on five,” cer Betsy McLaughlin said in a statement. “Sales in our music- and chief marketing officer. an array of niche brands and ex- which opened about three related classifications for Hot Topic stores are maintaining their Gonzalez also handled Bergdorf ’s clusives such as MAC, Laura months ago with about 50 percent positive comp trend and Torrid continues to perform well. home department, but that’s been Mercier, Benefit and Awake. more space than the old shop. However, the remaining product classifications within Hot Topic taken over by Margaret Spaniola, Prior to Bendel’s, Burstell was “In accessories and hand- (men’s, women’s, fashion accessories) have declined. Although the retailer’s gmm for men’s wear. a cosmetics and lifestyle acces- bags, we continue to grow the the comps have improved as we moved through the month, we Bergdorf ’s third gmm is Ginny sories buyer at Bloomingdale’s, core business, but Ed has a keen expect to be unable to offset the difficult business from earlier Hershey, senior vice president for and most recently has been a ability to seek out new and ex- in the month.” women’s. consultant to Hearst Corp. and citing resources. That will apply Burstell spent 16 years at Juicy Couture, which is creating to jewelry, as well.” With cos- ● TARRANT’S REVERSAL: Los Angeles-based Tarrant Apparel Bendel’s, starting as a cosmetics a beauty division. metics, Gold said Bergdorf ’s has Group said it has given up a plan to acquire Qorus.com Inc. by buyer, rising to a divisional mer- Compared with his role at an opportunity to add brands way of reverse merger with Tarrant’s Private Brands Inc. sub- chandise manager, then gmm Bendel’s, at Bergdorf ’s, Burstell and “creative marketing ideas. sidiary. Private Brands had planned to sell its stock in exchange for new shares of Qorus, representing a 97 percent stake in the company. Tarrant chairman Gerard Guez said in a statement that after “further review...the best platform to grow this busi- ness” is through its connection with Tarrant.

THE TIGER COMPANIES Corrections Tiger Button Co Inc - New York The store shown in photos on pages 4 and 18 of Monday’s “Where Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong America Shops” section II were of J. Crew. The identification was Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. incorrect in the caption. Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands ● ● ● Tiger Trimming Inc - New York The gold, amber onyx and red agate ring shown on page 8 of Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] Monday’s paper should have been credited to Di Modolo. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 3 WWD.COM Sharapova’s Golden Touch Saks to Buy Back Debt, NEW YORK — Regardless of Seeks Filing Extension how she plays at the Wimble- don tennis matches this week, NEW YORK — In a move that should quell con- defending champion Maria cerns over its debt and cash positions, Saks Inc. Sharapova is expected to said Monday it intends to repurchase $1.2 billion shine on the fashion front worth of debt. today in a white A-line dress The retailer also said it asked for an exten- with flecks of orange piping sion to file its annual report. and shoes with real gold for a In a statement Monday, Saks Inc. said it is look- little pizzazz. ing to buy back three debt notes and make an ad- While Wimbledon’s fashion ditional consent solicitation offer for three other flash is subdued by its strict, all- notes. Included in the tender offer were notes for white dress code, players inject $250 million due in 2010, $208.1 million due in color wherever they can. 2013 and $200 million due in 2019. Included in the Sharapova’s competition foot- consent solicitation are $230 million in convert- wear includes a material with ible senior notes due in 2024, $141.6 million due in 24-karat gold droplets that also 2011 and $190.3 million due in 2008. was used in the golden track Saks said it requested an extension on filing spikes made famous by sprinter its annual report with the Securities & Exchange Michael Johnson at the 2000 Committee until Oct. 31, which would allow it to Summer Olympics. Nike, her avoid defaulting on its loans under their current sponsor, made 10 pairs of spe- terms. Saks was expected to file its annual report cial gold shoes each for Shara- on Sept. 1. The original filing deadline was early pova and Roger Federer, who last week. won his first-round match on After the retailer missed its original deadline, Monday and is seeking his third which Saks had said it would, the company was straight Wimbledon title. hit with a default notice on the $230 million con- The orange piping on Shara- vertible debt note. An unnamed hedge fund that pova’s white dress coordinates owns a 25 percent position on the note issued the with the gold footwear, a Nike notice of default. spokeswoman said Monday. Maria Sharapova’s new look for Wimbledon. A notice of default could lead debt holders to The dress has cooling features issue an “event of default,” which could acceler- and mesh treatments, and was ate the payment schedule of all of Saks’ debt, created for Sharapova for the and her penchant for designer brands such as Marc making the debt due immediately. match, although a similar ver- Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. But last week, Saks said it was prepared to sion is available to consumers She’s such a fan of fashion that she’s even pay its debt load. Despite that, the notice of de- for $70. talked of making a career of it when she hangs up fault led to two credit rating downgrades, one Sharapova, 18, is defending her rackets. In an interview with WWD in April, from Moody’s Investors Service and the other the Wimbledon women’s title Sharapova said she wants to do something in the from S&P’s Ratings Service. Later in the week, she captured in 2004 by defeat- fashion business eventually and has many ideas Saks reiterated its ability to repay its debt. ing Serena Williams. The Her Nike footwear has for a future in fashion, although what that future The delay in filing its annual report, which avowed fashionista is known 24-karat gold droplets. will be remains to be seen. triggered the default notice and credit down- for her bold colors on the court — Melanie Kletter grades, is due to an internal review of improper markdown allowances at Saks. Shares of Saks ended Monday down 0.3 per- cent to $17.79. someone with a very steady hand, and Ron didn’t have it — Liza Casabona anymore.” MEMO PAD Reached at his home in Vermont, a piqued Galotti responded with some jabs of his own. “He can print THE STORY O’ FLORIO: Steve Florio may not call the shots at anything he wants, I guess,” he said. “The really Condé Nast anymore, but that doesn’t mean he’s out of wonderful thing about it is, since it’s Steve Florio’s book, Tommy Hilfiger Signs ammunition. Clearly, he saved some choice volleys for his no one will read it. He worked his whole life just to get to book, a memoir-cum-management treatise that draws heavily the point where he had the time to write a book.” on his time running business operations first at GQ, then The At least Galotti can take comfort in knowing he’s not New Swimwear Deal New Yorker and, finally, across all of Condé Nast (which, like Florio’s only target. Some of the others: ● NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger Licensing Inc., a WWD, is a unit of Advance Publications Inc.). According to Legendary New Yorker editor William Shawn: “He was subsidiary of Tommy Hilfiger Corp., has entered his representative at one of the most Ron Galotti manipulative human into a licensing agreement with RAJ Manu- William Morris Agency, facturing Inc. of Tustin, Calif., for the develop- an undisclosed beings I had ever encountered.” Case in ment, manufacture and distribution of Tommy publisher has Hilfiger swimwear. purchased the rights, point: According to Florio, Shawn The new Tommy Hilfiger Swim collection though Florio said launches in July at the Miami Swimwear Show in through a Condé Nast wheedled a generous retirement package out South Beach, Fla., and will be available in major spokeswoman, “No department stores and specialty stores nation- of Condé Nast, only to official deal has been wide beginning in spring-summer 2006. struck.” turn around and claim Hilfiger has had a swimwear business under Judging from a to his staff that he’d license since 2001 with Jantzen Inc. That agree- pitch and excerpt been pushed out. ment expired and was not renewed. Tommy ● obtained by WWD, Bonnie Fuller, Hilfiger Swimwear will continue to be available one person who will former editor in chief in misses’ and juniors’ styles. not be eager to see the of Glamour: “She “We are confident that RAJ Manufacturing’s book hit shelves is Ron damn near killed the product quality and retail relationships position Galotti. In a chapter magazine. She made it them to accomplish great things with the Tommy titled “Managing Mr. trashy as hell.” Hilfiger brand,” said Sharon Waldron, executive ● vice president of domestic licensing at Tommy PHOTO BY SCOTT GRIES/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES Big,” Florio, now vice HAWTHORNE/GETTY IMAGES PAUL PHOTO BY Anne Fuchs, Hilfiger. chairman, thoroughly Steve Florio in his 2002 heyday former publisher of running Condé Nast, a period he Vogue: “It was my view that Anne Fuchs had been serving The new swimwear line will feature separates, disses his former one-pieces, cover-ups and beachwear in a variety underling — the recounts in his new book. less as a publisher than as a Park Avenue socialite.” ● of bold colors. The misses’ line wholesales from subject of both his best and worst decisions at Condé Nast. Mandi Norwood, former editor in chief of Mademoiselle: “Within six months she took a century-old institution and put $18 to $58, and the juniors’ collection ranges from Florio writes, “The story of Ron Galotti is the story of how $18 to $26. celebrity can ruin a perfectly good executive.” As publisher that baby out of business.” ● GQ’s sales staff, circa 1980: “One guy in ad sales was In addition to Tommy Hilfiger Swimwear, the of Vogue (Florio’s best decision), he says, Galotti was a RAJ Manufacturing makes and distributes brilliantly effective, if at times too aggressive, ad salesman. a cocaine freak; another was a notorious sex fanatic. An out- of-town sales rep was a cross-dressing nut — hose, bras, swimwear under brand names such as Athena But after leaving in 1998 to start Talk with Tina Brown, “Ron Pick Your Fit, Next by Athena, Guess Swimwear, hats and the works — with a wife and kids. At our first sales started believing his own bulls--t,” Florio writes. Hiring him Guess Collection, O’Neill, Beach Lingo, St. John back to be publisher of GQ in 2001 was “the worst decision meeting, at the Montauk Yacht Club...all the gay guys Swimwear and private label. I ever made as president and ceo…The magazine needed showed up in dresses. Strapless numbers.” — Jeff Bercovici — Julee Greenberg 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM At Your Service NEW YORK — Ian Schrager Ian Schrager got the idea

eye® for his first set OTE of full-service residences at 50 Gramercy Park South from his friends in N Southampton, N.Y. They all have “estate managers,” employed help who unshutter the summer manses, hire the butlers, maids and kitchen staff and plan clambakes down to ordering the lobster bibs. “They just take care of A ballet lover Bettina everything,” Schrager at Dance With Zilkha at explains. “All my rich the Dancers. Free Arts. friends have one, but I BLUE never did. They said, For Picasso, the Blue Period may have been a time of ‘You’re crazy.’ It gave me melancholy, but for New York socials and models, it’s anything the idea for the building.” It but. As June temperatures hit the 90s, these stylish ladies also prompted him to embraced a vivid aqua hue as their color of choice, staying finally hire an estate cool in dresses, tunics manager for his and simple sarongs. Southampton home, which Indeed, their turquoise he did last year. It’s a sort of ensembles are as equally “hassle-free living,” he says. suited for breezy “I’m helpless. I’m fortunate Mediterranean jaunts as that I really do nothing. I for soirees in the steamy Jacquetta don’t have to worry about concrete jungle. Wheeler at the gardening. I just get to Viva Glam. enjoy everything, and I can have 100 percent capacity for work.” The 23 apartments at 50 Gramercy range in price from $5 million to $16 million and lie adjacent to the Gramercy Park Hotel, which Schrager is also refurbishing for a projected opening in spring 2006. Karl Lagerfeld is rumored to have bought in the building, and only four units remain available. Many of the residences have what Schrager calls “outdoor rooms,” really a luxurious way of saying “decks,” that overlook Gramercy Park. Still, how many people have 800-square-foot decks? What’s more, the residences come with what are called “lifestyle managers.” They’re not concierges — you can buy into the Sherry Netherland or the Pierre if you just want that, the developer says. (“I would never live in a hotel,” he confides. “It doesn’t have roots. It doesn’t have the sense of privacy.”) “An apartment with hotel services has been done before. But what we’re doing at 50 Gramercy is like having your own staff,” Schrager says. His building’s employees can take care of your pet when you’re away, hire a cook to cater a small dinner party or do personal shopping. “It’s effortless. There are no responsibilities,” he says. As for the new Gramercy Park Hotel, Schrager will only say that the aesthetic is a mixture of the quirky and the traditional. “It’s like it’s on acid,” he says. He’s trying to keep his latest projects a bit more intimate — he’s also working on a three-room hotel on Bond Street that will be surrounded by more residences like those at 50 Gramercy. It will be his first building constructed from the ground up. He’s already secured the penthouse in that new development for himself; the fact that it will have a pool makes it especially palatable to his children. It’s also Helena Cynthia just downtown enough for his liking. Christensen Lufkinin Charlotte “If I go above 14th Street now, I get a nosebleed,” Schrager says. at a Calvin at Baby Ronson at — Marshall Heyman Klein dinner. Buggy. Calvin Klein.

A little broken crockery doesn’t scare Brooklyn-based ceramicist Amanda Moffat. This is lucky since, as the mother of three children ranging in age from seven to 14, she has suffered her fair share of smashed vases. “You have to think, ‘I can make it again,’” Moffat says, chatting at Danziger Wheel of Fortune Projects, the Chelsea gallery that is showing her work until Friday. “Otherwise, I’d be weeping.” Her pragmatic attitude pervades Moffat’s artwork, a collection of intricately decorated but functional jugs, plates and bowls, which are collected by pals like Annie Leibovitz and Steven Meisel. “They are sculpture, but I love to use them,” she says of the pieces she keeps for herself. Moffat came late to the wheel. A Vassar graduate with a degree in art history, she decided that her first career as a stage actress was “incompatible with a happy home,” after marrying Art + Commerce founder Jim Moffat in 1988. A few pottery classes at Greenwich House later, she was hooked, and started working out of her Brooklyn Heights home. Now the proud owner of a 5,000- square-foot studio in Cobble Hill, she leases space to 14 other potters and works up to six hours a day. One piece can take nearly three months to complete. “People ask, ‘How do you have so much patience?’ ” she laughs. “I love making things. I find it endlessly absorbing.” She finds inspiration everywhere, from harlequin fabrics to Ottoman designs. One series of box- shaped vases has window-like cutouts based on Greek architecture, while another is painted after the windows of the Doge’s palace in Venice. Moffat mixes all her own glazes, using copper powder for a deep green and cobalt for blue. “Glazing is like a puzzle. You have to think three steps ahead. The kiln can make it either beautiful or horrible,” she says, explaining that a gas kiln is highly sensitive to temperature and barometric pressure. After firing a painstakingly patterned vase for 12 hours, it needs to cool inside for a crucial day and a half. “It’s a brutal time,” Moffat says. “You have to get busy and you can’t peek. I get nervous and have been known to look in there using flashlights.” No wonder Moffat says she never gets bored by all the hard work pottery demands. “I am still learning. With clay, it’s a timing game. It’s so exciting.” Amanda Moffat — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz VIVA GLAM, FREE ARTS, BABY BUGGY AND DANCE WITH THE DANCERS PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; BUGGY AND DANCE WITH THE DANCERS PHOTOS BY BABY GLAM, FREE ARTS, VIVA CENTENO TALAYA BY TURNER; MOFFAT DAVID BY KEITH SMITH; SCHRAGER KLEIN BY CALVIN DETAILS CELEBRATES 5UNFORGETTABLE YEARS.

leading the men’s revolution Be a part of the 5th Anniversary Issue. October close: July 20th On sale September 27th

PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM MUNRO 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 Different Worlds

“It’s probably the most baroque pre-collection I’ve ever done,” says Nicolas Ghesquière of his Balenciaga cruise collection, which is loaded with densely beaded cashmere sweaters, damask pantsuits and a multilayer dress with 18th-century airs that mixes paisley chiffon with Liberty florals. Jean Paul Gaultier’s Soleil resort collection, however, is inspired by French picnics and African tribalism, with ritual motifs or painterly checks decorating the designer’s signature mesh pieces. Meanwhile, “Viva Las Vegas” is Rena Lange’s theme this season, as playful poker patterns and whimsical circus prints add charm to the designer’s traditional suitings.

Balenciaga

Rena Balenciaga Balenciaga Lange WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Rena Lange Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Rena Lange 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 Cruise Overtakes Spr

Continued from page one chairman and chief executive. “[The shows] now serve to give you a jolt of the most creative fashion that delivers in the peak of season,” Gold said. “It’s still very legitimate. But should there be an emphasis from an editorial and runway standpoint on those early deliveries? I think that would be healthy for the business.” Jeffry Aronsson, ceo of Donna Karan International, agreed, saying he could envision treating resort like spring in terms of fashion presentations and editorial coverage. “In an ideal world, it could make a lot of sense, espe- cially if you consider the houses that develop collec- tions in Italy,” he said. “Everybody goes on vacation in August, and there is always such a crunch time to devel- op spring. I am all in favor of showcasing resort with the same importance as spring. More selling earlier will be better for everybody.” Even if designers are not yet ready to advance show dates, they acknowledge the pressing need to deliver goods to stores earlier and earlier. Accounting for between 70 and 80 percent of total spring-summer sales, cruise collections are becoming ever more expansive and newsworthy, garnering more editorial credits and finding their way onto more red carpets, advertising campaigns — and even some design- er runways. It’s all thanks to cruise’s most enduring and attractive feature — a luxuriously long selling window. “More and more, the level of sell-through is driven by early deliveries,” said Valerie Hermann, ceo of Yves [The shows] now serve to “give you a jolt of the most creative fashion that delivers in the peak of season. It’s still very legitimate. But should there be an emphasis from an editorial and runway standpoint on those early deliveries? I think that would be healthy for the business. — Jim Gold,” Bergdorf Goodman Saint Laurent in Paris. “You have three months more to sell than the runway [line]. We all know in this business that earlier is the best.” To wit: The French house just advanced its whole- sale campaign by three weeks to ensure cruise starts flowing into stores by the end of October. It also beefed up offerings of cocktail and eveningwear to capitalize on pre-holiday demand for occasion clothes. The growth of the cruise or resort delivery has been dramatic in recent years. “I would say that over the past five years, its sales volume has doubled,” said Mark Lee, president and managing director at Gucci, where cruise now repre- sents 25 percent of annual sales, or 80 percent of the Embroidered and Chanel’s tweed short suit spring-summer alone. Of the balance, 10 percent is gen- embellished tops, like bookedChanel’s strongly tweed short within suit erated by its “spring one” delivery and another 10 per- the one here, were among Chanel’sbooked strongly store network. within cent by the fashion show collection shown in late bestsellers at Vera Wang. Chanel’s store network. September-early October. “Cruise, which is a full-range collection that now also tomer already has seen and bought into fall and is look- Montenay. “It began in the U.S., for the ladies who were includes luggage, drives our fourth-quarter business, es- ing for new merchandise. cruising in December. Now, it’s selling all over the pecially in accessories,” Lee said. “Though it was an What’s more, “we sell a lot of resort merchandise as world,” Australia being a rare exception, she said. “For American invention, it is now a worldwide reality.” Christmas presents” in Marc Jacobs’ own stores, he various countries in Asia, it is very important and we Hermann noted that YSL’s cruise collection today added. “They don’t want stuff that will be marked down are adding lighter fabrics and lighter clothes.” spans 450 references, including handbags and footwear, in January. Resort has turned into a big Christmas-item Indeed, Chanel stages runway shows in Paris for more than triple the size it’s been in the past. “It’s not business for us.” cruise — the most recent one on a fleet of vintage buses; only some T-shirts to go to the beach,” she quipped. Increased editorial attention also has helped fuel re- the one before that, on a riverboat. That fact compels At Giorgio Armani, sales of cruise collections are up sort’s popularity with stores and shoppers, vendors say. designer Karl Lagerfeld to inject more and more fash- between 3 and 5 percent from a year ago. “In particular, “There was a time, years ago, when you saw just a ion into the delivery, Montenay said. the cruise collection is growing in the U.S. and couple of months of editorial on resort,” Duffy said. Ye t cruise collections often have been derided as “com- Northern European markets,” Armani said. “We consid- “Now, you see that [when] resort becomes more impor- mercial,” a description vendors contest. They stress the er cruise a good harbinger of first-half 2006 [spring-sum- tant editorially, more celebrities will wear it and so importance of fresh colors and novelty to excite the con- mer] sales. As it represents a significant part of the more consumers will buy it. It’s become another com- sumer, and note that the season can be the springboard for group’s sales, we are devoting more marketing and pro- plete season.” new clothing trends and even signature handbags. motional efforts to cruise.” At Chanel, cruise now represents about 20 to 22 per- “It’s important to stress that cruise, which is part of Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs, said cruise cent of annual sales, versus roughly 10 percent a decade our pre-spring seasons, is, nowadays, a real collection tends to sell well because, come November, the cus- ago, according to Chanel SA president Francoise in terms of design, fabrics, textures and prints,” said WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 9 WWD.COM ring and Runway,Too

clothes that never sacrifice style.” Evening dresses, In fact, Nastro said buyer reaction was so strong that especially this the essence of Versace’s cruise collection “will carry embroidered style, over into spring-summer with a return to sophisticated, were top sellers at glamorous pieces that have that individual, modern Yves Saint Laurent. Versace edge.” Silk printed dresses were the best-booking styles for cruise at Versace. Other hot categories and items for the season include daywear and casualwear at Armani; knitwear, especially striped T-shirts, at Sonia Rykiel; “little sexy dresses” at Marc Jacobs; a green tweed jack- et with epaulet detail and matching shorts at Chanel, and embellished and embroidered tops at Vera Wang. Cashmere is a top cruise category at Michael Kors, and ceo John Idol said the embroidered cardigan was a big hit this season. Other top trends include madras plaid prints in cotton and taffeta leaf prints. Emboldened by strong sales, several vendors plan to increase promotional and marketing efforts around VERA WANG PHOTO BY JOHN PHOTO BY WANG VERA STEPHANE FEUGERE AQUINO; CHANEL AND YSL BY cruise. For example, Gucci is planning a worldwide advertising campaign in support of cruise, the first col- lection designed by women’s creative director Frida Giannini, Lee said. It will break in November and December magazines, and also will spotlight new shoes and bags. “It corresponds to our focus on increasing communi- cation-advertising spending to support our strategic goals and capitalize on the strong sales growth we are presently experiencing worldwide with the Gucci brand,” Lee said. More and more, the level of sell-through“ is driven by early deliveries. You have three months more to sell than the runway [line]. We all know in this business that earlier is the best. — Valerie Hermann, Yves ”Saint Laurent

Despite the apparent out-of-sync nature between sales patterns and the shows, organizers say the timing of fashion weeks won’t change for now. Manufacturers say they need to spread out their production of spring collections over three months. Mario Boselli, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, said he has considered moving up dates of the runway shows or floated the idea of having earlier presentations for buyers and later shows for the press, but designers have consistently nixed the idea. He said designers want to unveil their collections simul- taneously to the retailers and the press, and do so with a strong message and impact. Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, said there was no need to alter the existing runway schedule, es- pecially since most buyers come to Paris for the January and July haute couture shows, and then also order pre-collections and cruise. “It’s one of the reasons that the haute couture is coming back,” said Grumbach. “It shows that you don’t need a show for important or- ders to be taken. But, of course, you need a show for other reasons, to reach out to the customer.” Retailer Carla Sozzani, owner of 10 Corso Como in Milan, agreed fashion shows are mostly communication Vittorio Missoni, marketing director and sales manager “I think that some of the accessories categories definite- vehicles for the press and the public since retailers al- at Missoni. “That means that, from a design standpoint, ly can play off of the different seasons, whether it’s shoes ready have done 75 percent of their buying. there’s a lot of energy involved because we actually use or eyewear. It gives us a reason to sell more product.” “Journalists come to me and they say, ‘This is nice,’ some cruise looks in the runway show and in the ad As for resort’s influence on spring, Sokol added: “I and I say, ‘It’s pre-collection,’” she said. “I think it would campaign. This goes to show that they’re a far cry from think it sets a template for spring. There is a correlation make sense for the press to see everything.” the basic collection they used to be years ago.” between resort and spring. Spring just takes it to the Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth and According to Vera Wang president Susan Sokol, cruise next step.” vice president of IMG, which organizes New York is increasingly about great items the customer wants to Still, some big houses are relatively new to the Fashion Week, said she is exploring the potential of an wear right away, not just pieces suitable for vacations. cruise game. organized bridal week, but cruise does not represent a “It’s about an impulse buy — something that they can “This is the first cruise collection that we have pre- pressing need to put up tents in the middle of summer. buy, wear now; something that makes them feel good,” sented since Gianni Versace passed away,” said “I don’t think that resort at this moment will replace she said. “There is still a take-away component, but Loredana Nastro, director of wholesale business at the entire spring calendar,” she said. “We would consid- more and more, it is about the fashion customer who Versace. “Now, more than ever, there is a growing ne- er creating a smaller, organized resort week if that’s sees something and really wants to spruce up her fall cessity and interest in cruise collections because people what the industry is interested in.” wardrobe.” At Vera Wang, the top resort classification is travel to warmer places in the winter or they are just But “right now, the world is not coming here for re- tops, from woven embellished to embroidered looks. very interested in purchasing new individual pieces for sort,” she continued. “While this is important domesti- Sokol said she sees no reason the strength of resort the upcoming season before anyone else. We have seen cally, it doesn’t have that global impact that spring has wouldn’t extend into other categories. a strong trend for modern, glamorous and sophisticated in the calendar.” 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Chetta B’s Silver Touch Giorgio Armani, Mario Russo By Arthur Friedman Howard and Sherrie Bloom made leather and suede, and Peter Noviello. we made shearling coats NEW YORK — Chetta B and we’re now big into Spruce Up Nine Zero in Boston is a rare Seventh Avenue the eveningwear busi- animal. ness,” Bloom said. “So, By Meredith Derby While many of its fortunately for us, it’s species of independent- about the product. Sher- BOSTON — Jim Horsman, general manager of boutique hotel ly operated ready-to- rie and Peter have been Nine Zero here, knows good design when it comes to hotels and wear firms have become very good about design- the people who run them. extinct and others have ing product that’s apro- Horsman, the host of many fashion-related events at Nine joined a larger herd, pos for the time. We were Zero — recently a launch party for Polo Ralph Lauren’s new fra- this bridge-priced dress in the suit business and grance, Polo Black — wanted the hotel’s 25-member front-of-the- and suit house has been when suits were great we house and restaurant staff to reflect the latest fashion trends and run by the same person were doing great. When be better equipped to maintain appropriate personal grooming. — Howard Bloom — suits weren’t so great, we Since Nine Zero has relationships with two area businesses, a

with the same designers ▲ slowed it down. When Giorgio Armani and Salon Mario Russo, Horsman said his idea — sister Sherrie Bloom Two looks from Chetta B’s eveningwear is important, it gets more for a staff makeover day was a no-brainer. and Peter Noviello — for fall look book, which has emphasis. Daytime clothes are becom- “Doing this is very much in keeping with who we are and what 25 years. become a key selling tool. ing more important now, they’re empha- we are,” Horsman said. “When you look at the concept of the hotel, That’s not to say the company hasn’t evolved with sizing those looks.” I want to make certain that we’re giving our ladies and gentlemen the times. Its survival is proof of that, the three Noviello said “anticipation” of where every opportunity to be educated on what…are the styles out there insisted in an interview at the firm’s show- the market is going is important from that should be considered modern — whether it’s how you do your room and offices at 530 Seventh Avenue. The a design and sales standpoint, hair or the types of clothing that you wear.” firm moved to its current home four years ago rather than reacting to trends. Physical appearances are no stranger to Nine Zero. The after 21 years at 498 Seventh Avenue when “Being evolutionary is what’s hotel’s owner, Paul Palandjian, “is very hands-on and instrumen- what had been known as the “dress building” kept us fresh and relevant for 25 tal when it comes to perception and how we look,” Horsman said. decided to attract nonfashion clientele. years,” Bloom said. “I believe a lot The efforts helped the hotel receive accolades for its exterior red Another major change in the company, of the women we sell have fol- brick, glass, chrome and stainless steel finish and interior of rich which had sales of about $20 million last lowed us.” wood and warm color-accented designs. Condé Nast Traveler voted year, is the evolution over the last 10 years He said many times when he tells the Nine Zero best U.S. hotel by design, saying “touches throughout as to where it makes its merchandise. people that he owns Chetta B, peo- earn it a perfect design score.” (Like WWD, Condé Nast Traveler is “We’ve become a 97 percent importer ple will react and cite a certain from 100 percent domestic in the last 10 dress that they bought years earlier. years,” Howard Bloom said. “I get a better “We have a following,” he said. product. I get product I couldn’t manufac- “We sell the same stores that have ture here, especially from factories that spe- been around for 25 years, like cialize in this kind of handwork and beading. Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth You go to China, where they have gorgeous fac- Avenue. There’s a bunch of special- tories, everything’s brand new and they’re ty stores that are 25-year customers proud to be in that business. Here, you go to a of ours. We take good care of the factory and it’s old and dark and dank, they specialty stores. We cater to them haven’t bought a machine in 35 years and the and do special orders for them.” labor force is miniscule.” Bloom said Neiman’s and Saks He said importing from China has made the firm combine for about 30 to 35 per- plan its production “a little bit earlier,” but Sherrie cent of annual volume. Bloom and Noviello still like to work close to the Sally Peck and Rebecca Jordan, man- season to be on top of trends and customer needs. agers of Monkeys, a specialty store in Rich- “The requirements to work in China are not mond, Va., said Chetta B gives them a combi- PORTRAIT THOMAS IANNACCONE; ARMANI BY BY MACKINNON EDWARD what they used to be when people first start- nation of strong styling and customer service. Giorgio Armani’s Collette Royer offers some fashion tips. ed going there,” Bloom said. “When the exo- “They’re just great to work with,” Peck dus first started, the Chinese manufacturers said. “They’re very good at sending us cata- owned by Advance Publications Inc.) And the hotel’s luxury atmos- were dictating policy. That is no longer the logues and information for our customers to phere has attracted celebrity guests such as Sarah Jessica Parker case. I feel that I have the upper hand in look at.” and her husband, Matthew Broderick, Missy Elliott and Gwen those negotiations. There are so many of Jordan said the line has consistent fit Stefani. The 190-room Nine Zero, which is managed by Destination them there now, that they’re happy and up-to-date styling. She said, “It’s Hotels & Resorts, opened in June 2002 at 90 Tremont Street, roughly to have a steady, 25-year-old firm to great for mother-of-the-bride styles. The line is catercorner to the city’s famed public park, Boston Common. do business with.” sophisticated and shows off a women’s body For the makeover day, April 11, Horsman tapped existing re- Bloom, whose firm used to man- very well.” sources in Collette Royer, who manages the Giorgio Armani store on ufacture in unionized shops and Peck added, “It’s classic styling that’s also Newbury Street, as well as Mario Russo of Salon Mario Russo, also was an advocate of worker rights sexy and it doesn’t sit in the store — it sells.” on Newbury Street. The hotel frequently sends its guests for person- and supporting local jobs, said times Chetta B items generally hang in stores al shopping excursions to the Armani store, and it has carried an ex- are just not the same and efforts to with lines such as Kay Unger, Carmen Marc clusive line of Mario Russo personal care products since opening. curb imports and protect American Valvo, Teri Jon, ABS and Nicole Miller. The first stop during the makeover was Russo’s salon, where jobs are a fruitless endeavor. The last quarter century has seen sweep- Russo himself doled out personalized hair makeovers. “Getting “They’re way too late,” he said. ing changes in American retailing, changes up in the morning, showering and going out to work with wet “These are not the right jobs worth that have continued lately with further con- hair is not about grooming,” Russo told the group. “There should saving. There’s nobody here who solidation of major stores, such as Federated be no excuse….If you work with the public, you do want to look wants to do that kind of work. Department Stores plan to buy May properly groomed.” Our economy has changed.” Department Stores. Russo advised women staff members — especially servers at In 1980, Bloom left St. Gil- “For us, the mergers won’t have drastic ef- Nine Zero’s restaurant, Spire — to wear low ponytails that could lian/A.J. Bari, where he had fect because most of the Federated and May be twisted into buns and held into place using accessories, such worked with the late Jon Levy and stores don’t carry us, and I suspect that ones as beaded elastics, to complete the look. with Kay Unger, who now runs her that do, like Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale’s, Russo, who addressed the group for an hour, stressed that per- own dress firm, and started Chetta B. still will,” Bloom said. “However, some of the sonal grooming doesn’t end with hairstyling. Proper makeup and “Sherrie and Peter had also guys on Seventh Avenue are going to get hurt nail care are essential elements to present the finished look worked there and I asked them to big time by that consolidation.” hotel guests expect. Each Nine Zero staff member received a come with me,” Bloom said. “They The trio said their longevity on Seventh free haircut at Salon Mario Russo, for which Nine Zero paid. were doing buying and selling, Avenue can be found in their entrepreneur- Next, the staff headed across Newbury Street to receive tips and I was doing selling and ad- ial thinking, which comes down to servicing on selecting and accessorizing the black suit from Royer at ministrative. We started making their accounts and designing for women’s needs. Giorgio Armani. Royer said Armani’s history with transforming daytime, young missy clothes.” But Noviello said designing with a certain age both the men’s and women’s suit from a stiff, bulky garment to Sherrie Bloom said working with her woman in mind is the wrong way to go about it. He one with fewer layers and an improved, flowing shape has made big brother for so many years brings “a and Sherrie said a good style is one that bridges the fashion world think of Armani “as the black suit.” certain comfort level and trust because the gap and can be worn by the mother of the The black suit, she advised, should be a wardrobe staple be- you know your brother will never hurt you.” bride and the bridesmaids. cause it can be worn “1,000 ways.” While one-button suits are the Bloom said the business has grown Howard Bloom said the regional markets and most current trend, Royer noted that suit styles regularly shift steadily since 1980 and “what’s nice is it the Fashion Coterie show are important ways to between one and three buttons. keeps evolving into something else.” find new accounts. He said even with many stores A black suit is probably the easiest garment to wear because it “We started as a daytime dress re- closing down, there are still good specialty stores may be easily paired with different types of shirts, Royer said. source and during the 25 years we’ve in each city, “and our job is to go find them.” WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 11 WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr ade Report Indian Inspirations Carry Into Fall China’s Growth in Exports By Ross Tucker To Stabilize, ILO Study Says NEW YORK — Indian-inspired fashions will carry over into the fall and winter seasons, said ven- dors at the second Integrated Indian Apparel By John Zarocostas Sourcing Show. GENEVA — The sharp growth in China’s market share in global Autumn fashions will be heavy on brown and textile and apparel exports is likely to level off after an initial mocha, as well as violets, said Charulata Moorjani boost from the end of global quotas, an industry study by the of Akaash Impex, a company based in Mumbai. International Labor Organization predicts. “Full skirts are in fashion,” Moorjani said. However, the study also concludes that employment in the in- “Women are moving more toward embroidered dustry will “continue to decline” in developed countries such as skirts, too.” the U.S. and in the European Union, where jobs have fallen on Moorjani said sequins and tie-died items will average by 6.3 and 2.7 percent a year, respectively, since 1995. continue to be strong sellers heading into fall. Globally, the study by the 178-member agency, which includes The Penn Plaza Pavilion was the site of the the U.S., projects that employment in the politically sensitive event here on June 8 and 9. Trade law firm textile sector will decline by between 1 and 2.5 percent by 2018. Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg and the Apparel The U.S. has responded to the flood of Chinese imports by im- Export Promotion Council, an Indian agency re- posing safeguards on certain categories, while the EU recently sponsible for promoting the export of Indian ap- made a deal with China capping growth in Chinese exports in 10 parel, sponsored the event. Tiered skirts will still be sensitive categories to between 8 and 12.5 percent a year until Gerri Ryan, president of Merchandise, Textiles inin playplay forfor fallfall andand winter.winter. the end of 2007. But the ILO report argues that China has & CADS Inc., said styles are varying widely. MTC is reached the development stage where the textile and apparel a division of India-based P.S. Apparels, which em- ments a month. The company employs more than share of its total output and exports has started to decline. ploys more than 6,000 people and produces some 12,000 people. Other factors the ILO identified as likely to contribute to the 500,000 woven and 150,000 knit garments a month. Vendors expressed frustration with the lack of leveling-off in textile exports is the likelihood that the domestic “Nothing is ordinary; everything is embel- foot traffic at the show, a problem that was exacer- Chinese market “is likely to absorb an increasing share of local lished,” Ryan said. “Between madras, patchwork bated by weak air conditioning at the Pavilion as production as Chinese consumers become more affluent.” and seersucker, it’s going to be a big year for India.” temperatures soared. Already, China’s 1.3 billion population absorbs about one- Munish Hinduja, president of Gokaldas Images “This was a good opportunity to see India third of its production of textiles and apparel, the report notes. Inc., said consumers will be looking to take Indian under one roof and the buyers missed it,” said The fact that leading firms want to diversify their sourcing is fashions to a higher level. Moorjani of Akaash Impex. likely to have an impact as well, the report says. “The trend has been oversaturated by every- MTC’s Ryan said buyers were being cautious Other low-cost producers such as India, Bangladesh and body from Old Navy on up,” said Hinduja, refer- after the removal of quotas, with rival China Pakistan could also become more competitive, provided they fol- ring to Old Navy’s flood of tiered skirts and embel- under fresh safeguard quota restraints. low through with planned reforms, said the ILO. lished tunics this spring. “People will want the A spokesman for Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg “India, in particular, is a future giant” in textiles and apparel, next improved version.” said more than 400 people attended the show, according to the ILO report on the implications of the quota Hinduja said African-inspired fashions will be which had more than 40 exhibitors in booths. phaseout. The South Asian nation’s textile and apparel industry, strong next spring. “Our hope is, it becomes an annual thing,” the it notes, has access to raw materials and a huge labor force, and Gokaldas has 18 factories that produce more spokesman said. “It’s a pretty good turnout for a is currently only held back by weak infrastructure and counter- than two million knits, wovens and tailored gar- single-country show.” productive regulations. The ILO report argues that import penetration “is likely to re- main larger” in the U.S. than in the 25 EU member countries due to a more fragmented market in the latter. “The relative importance of branded goods in the mid-fashion China Looks to Canada for Boost in Imports market is larger in the European Union than in the United States, contributing to a more fragmented market,” the study says. By Julee Greenberg Moreover, it goes on to say, this market structure provides op- portunities for local companies, which have an advantage over NEW YORK — The issue of safeguard quotas loomed over exhibitors and buyers at the sixth annual foreign providers due to “better information on consumer tastes China Textile & Apparel trade show here. and preferences.” The event ended its three-day run last Thursday at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, where The ILO report also predicts that in the post-quota era, a like- exhibitors discussed new ways to increase business as Europe and the U.S. limit the volume of im- ly outcome could be a consolidation of the supply chain, where ports from China. the informal industry and so-called sweatshops will decline in “It’s really unfair for the U.S. to hurt our business,” said Alan Shie, sales representative at Santex countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan and India and will be re- International, a textile firm based in Shanghai. “This is a problem for us and it will dramatically de- placed “by larger and more efficient formal sector producers.” crease our overall income.” The European Union and China agreed this month to limit China’s textile and apparel shipments to an- nual increases of 8 to 10 percent during the next three years. The U.S. imposed quotas on a range of goods that will limit each category’s volume to a 7.5 percent increase this year. World Trade Organization countries dropped quotas this year, but China’s membership in the trade group allowed safeguard quotas to be imposed if a country deemed its industries were being threatened by Chinese imports. The antidote to restrictions will be to cultivate customers from Canada, which has chosen not to limit Chinese imports, Shie said. “There are so many more Canadian cus- tomers shopping the show this year,” he said. Frank Goo, a sales representative at Workers at a Chinese textile mill. Nantong Jiaye Garment Co., also based in Shanghai, said he attended the show for the first time this year to develop better relations with customers, which include major mass chains such as Target, Kmart and Wal-Mart. His focus was to pick up more Canadian customers. “It’s so much easier for us to import into Canada these days,” Goo said, “and there are so many Canadian people here, which is good for us.” He said the company would open an office in New York’s Garment District next year. “We are hoping that will make it easier for us to import into the U.S., but we don’t know for sure what will happen in the end,” he said. “It’s a big worry because we do so much business in the United States.” Vendors shopping the show for new fabrics and manufacturers in China were also concerned. “We are just going to have to move more of our production to other countries,” said Johnny Kirpalani, president of junior sportswear brand Plugg. “It’s the only thing we can do and it’s the only thing everyone is going to have to do.” Kirpalani said he would source in China to produce jackets, but the bottoms business would have to be moved, which is likely to increase costs. “It’s not an ideal situation, that’s for sure,” he said. “But hopefully, things will change.” MILL PHOTO BY JIM RICHARDSON/CORBIS MILL PHOTO BY 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Rebuts ‘Dateline’ Flap Canali Sets First By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — Wal-Mart Stores Inc. defended its Men’s Fragrance use of apparel contractors in Bangladesh Monday after a “Dateline NBC” report on alleged minimum NEW YORK — Milan-based fashion house Canali SpA will launch its wage and overtime violations in a factory there. first fragrance this summer and the The “Dateline NBC” segment, “Hidden Costs? men’s wear producer has, naturally The Human Faces Behind Store Bargains,” aired enough, chosen to do a masculine Canali’s Friday night and highlighted the difficulty for U.S. scent, called Canali. The house also inaugural companies in monitoring working conditions in for- will launch men’s treatment products scent. eign factories competing on thin margins. early next year. “Dateline” teamed up with Charles Kernaghan, Until last year, Canali had only director of the National Labor Committee and a U.S. dealt in the suiting, footwear and labor activist, who posed as an apparel executive “We negotiate prices with suppliers and we’re men’s accessories businesses. But seeking to have denim shirts made in Bangladesh. tough,” Wertz said. “I don’t apologize for that.” after meeting with Italian fra- Under that nation’s labor laws, an apparel em- The program showed Kernaghan looking at sev- grance marketer Eurocosmesi, ployee is allowed to work 10 hours a day on a six- eral factories, including one that produced appar- the fashion house was wooed by day work week for a total of 60 hours, including el for Sears, Roebuck & Co., Wal-Mart and Kohl’s. the potential of the greater name two hours of overtime per day. Kernaghan took a hidden camera into a third ap- recognition that can be associ- Posing as an executive for a fictitious company parel factory producing clothes for Kmart and Wal- ated with marketing a signa- named Hansen Fashions, Kernaghan visited a few Mart at 1 a.m. The workers said they were racing ture scent. BEAUTY BEAT apparel factories on the “Dateline NBC” episode, to meet a deadline and had been on the job since 8 Eurocosmesi, the fine fra- focusing on the Wills Garment Co., which pro- the previous morning. grances and cosmetics division of Bologna, Italy-based Guaber duces apparel for Wal-Mart. He interviewed a Fakrul Ahsan, commercial counselor at the Group SpA, landed worldwide licensing rights for Canali fragrances sewing operator named Masuma who said she was Embassy of Bangladesh in Washington, said the re- a year ago. It’s expected the Canali fragrance will be carried in a often forced to work more than 70 hours a week port was “balanced,” and stressed that his govern- significantly wider global distribution network than the fashion and frequently worked on Fridays, a Muslim holy ment takes steps to reduce and eliminate labor law line’s 1,000 points of sale worldwide. day that, by law, is supposed to be a day off. abuses. “We have an open mind and any shortcom- First off will be the U.S., where plans call for the Canali scent to be Masuma said she was paid about 17 cents an ings will be discussed and resolved,” Ahsan said. launched at Saks Fifth Avenue in August. It’s expected to be carried hour and was often forced to work extra for no Bangladesh has made strides to virtually elimi- exclusively at Saks until the fall, when it will be rolled out chain-wide pay if she failed to meet her quota of sewing 80 nate child labor, progress acknowledged by to Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. The scent also will be carried in stripes an hour on pants destined for Wal-Mart. human rights groups, he said. The country has Canali’s only U.S. store, a fashion boutique in Coral Gables, Fla. Wal-Mart’s director of international corporate about 2 million workers, primarily women, in Further rollout plans call for the Canali scent to reach roughly 200 affairs, Bill Wertz, said in an interview Monday 4,000 factories, Ahsan said. In 2004, Bangladesh doors in the U.S. by yearend. Within the first year, it could be carried that the company was being “singled out” as part exported $1.97 billion worth of apparel to the U.S., in 700 doors in the U.S. Industry sources estimated the Canali scent of the NLC’s campaign against Wal-Mart, which U.S. Commerce Department figures show. could generate first-year retail sales volume of between $7 million and has come under fire on a range of issues, includ- Masuma was paid about $50 a month. $10 million in the U.S., a market that now accounts for 40 percent of ing employee salaries and benefits. “In the U.S., $50 a month may not sound good, the fashion house’s $200 million in total revenues. Wertz said the labor violations depicted on but in Bangladesh, it is fine,” Ahsan said. “We Internationally, the fragrance will launch in September. It’s ex- “Dateline NBC’’ are common. Wal-Mart goes to great know there are problems, but we are trying to im- pected to reach about six markets, including Italy, Hong Kong, Dubai lengths to monitor factories around the world and prove them, and these girls are getting a salary to and Canada, including 25 freestanding Canali fashion shops. U.S. eradicate labor abuses, he said. “We are continually live on. Otherwise, they would go begging.” distribution of the Canali scent is being handled by Karis Group trying to eliminate these kinds of violations, but, un- Images of workers like Masuma, pictured in here, which is led by president Cary Lopez and vice president fortunately, we’re unable to succeed 100 percent of her squalid living quarters with her two-year-old Kristine Spurney. the time,” he said. Wertz acknowledged Wal-Mart daughter, mother and two other garment workers, Canali, a third-generation, family-owned fashion house, began as found overtime violations at the Wills plant last year prompt many in the U.S. to question whether glob- a tailor shop in Milan in 1934. Spurney believes Canali’s venture and worked with management to correct them. He alization raises the standard of living. into the fragrance category is akin to its entry during the Seventies said the factory would have received another rou- “Dateline NBC” aired the segment for two Wal- into the export business, which now accounts for 75 percent of its tine audit in July, but company officials will go back Mart customers who said on the program it looked revenues. “For many years, they were focused on doing fashion [ex- in sooner as a result of the “Dateline NBC’’ segment. like “slave labor.” The shoppers — Vilma Matera clusively],” Spurney said of Canali. “But the third generation real- “The ultimate sanction is to withdraw our busi- and Peggy Rocciola — said they would pay 20 cents ized the potential that fragrance can add to name recognition.” ness,” Wertz said. “If a factory does not improve to 50 cents extra for a pair of pants if they knew it Two versions of the scent will be produced: a 50-ml. eau de toi- over a period of time, depending on the nature of would help workers like Masuma. lette for $45 and a 100-ml. version for $60. Four ancillary products the violations, we will discontinue doing business Kernaghan’s organization brought Masuma to will accompany the fragrance — an aftershave lotion, an aftershave there.” He said Wal-Mart negotiates prices fairly the U.S. as part of a campaign to improve working balm, a deodorant stick and body shampoo, which will range in — responding to an accusation on the program conditions and took her to a Wal-Mart store in price from $18 to $40. that the world’s largest retailer would not pay a Connecticut, where she found clothes she had The Canali scent, which was blended by Fragrance Resources per- penny more for an item, as requested by a factory made in Bangladesh retailing for $12.84, the fumer Pierre Bourdon, mixes top notes of bergamot, apple and corian- owner — and said the comment lacked credibility. equivalent of about one week’s pay for her. der; a heart of lily of the valley, jasmine and orange blossoms, and a drydown of leather, suede and oakmoss accords. “The notes of the fra- grance reflect the Canali man — refined, sophisticated and well trav- include an original artwork by James Turrell. But the eled,” said Spurney. The Canali bottle was created by Italian design design studios already have cooked up some firm KMA. Fashion Scoops ultraluxurious products that will be exclusive to the In the U.S., an advertising campaign will break in September is- location. These include Vuitton’s first limited-edition sues of GQ, Esquire and Vogue, an effort that will subsequently in- SOHO COUTURE: For the second consecutive season, shoes for women and men — in crocodile, no less — clude Men’s Health, Details and Vanity Fair. An estimated $3.5 mil- Ralph Rucci will be skipping the Paris couture shows and a spectacular “Twilight” version of its Speedy lion to $5 million has been earmarked to support the scent’s U.S. in- next month, instead opting to present fall couture watch with diamonds and sapphires depicting a troduction, according to estimates by industry sources. pieces during his spring Chado ready-to-wear show in twinkling Eiffel Tower on a blue mother-of-pearl dial. It In spring 2006, Canali plans to launch two men’s treatment prod- New York in September. will retail for around $35,500. More within reach is ucts — a facial moisturizing cream and a body tonic gel. The move is Rucci skipped the couture shows in Paris last January Vuitton’s new permanent line of sunglasses, which will intended to bring the brand “in line with the current [men’s] market after his mother passed away over the holidays. This bow exclusively at the Paris flagship before a broader trend,” the fashion house stated, referring to the current growth in time, he is moving into a new showroom on Broadway delivery to other Vuitton boutiques in November. the men’s prestige treatment category. Prices for the two treatment between Prince and Spring Streets this summer, items have not yet been set. and, according to a company spokeswoman, MOORE MILESTONE: Those traveling to the — Matthew W. Evans he wished to inaugurate the space by men’s shows in Milan this week will have at unveiling couture and rtw there in least one reason for major celebrations. September. “He thought it would be GQ creative director Jim Moore has been Lauder, YSL Speculation Discounted beautiful to do a show and welcome with the magazine for 25 years, and to PARIS — Speculation has reignited in Europe that the Estée people to the new showroom,” she said. mark the occasion, the magazine’s Lauder Cos. might be out to acquire YSL Beauté. But knowledge- “He intends to go back [to Paris].” editor in chief, Jim Nelson, is throwing a able market sources sharply dismissed the possibility on Monday. dinner and party on Sunday. Expected YSL Beauté is Gucci Group’s beauty arm, which includes the Yves END GAME: Louis Vuitton will be the to swing by Milan’s Swiss Consulate, Saint Laurent, Van Cleef & Arpels, Oscar de la Renta, Roger & Gallet, cherry on the cake of Paris Fashion where the party is being held, are the Alexander McQueen, Ermenegildo Zegna and Stella McCartney brands. Week. Gearing up for the Oct. 12 likes of Usher, Miuccia Prada, Giorgio Spokeswomen for Lauder and Gucci both declined all comment, cit- opening of its world’s largest store, on the Armani, Donatella Versace, Domenico Dolce, ing their companies’ policies against responding to market speculation. Champs-Elysées, Vuitton has swapped time Stefano Gabbana and Dean and Dan Caten, as While some luxury analysts have suggested YSL Beauté is not a core slots with Yves Saint Laurent, traditionally The limited-edition well as several U.S. retail executives such as competency for Gucci Group, industry sources Monday dismissed the the last show on the international fashion Speedy watch. Bloomingdale’s Kal Ruttenstein, Saks Fifth idea Lauder would make such a large acquisition. Also, Gucci Group is circuit. A party will immediately follow its runway Avenue’s Ron Frasch and Bergdorf Goodman’s Jim Gold. believed to consider its beauty arm integral since it is profitable. show Oct. 9 to fete the boutique. Vuitton is keeping a The dinner will be followed by a party for 300 with a Market sources estimate a company like YSL Beauté would sell tight lid on design details, confirming only that it will performance by Kanye West. for one-and-a-half to two times revenues. Last year, it generated sales of 630.4 million euros, or $765.7 million. SPEEDY PHOTO BY MITCHELL FEINBERG; CANALI BY JOHN AQUINO MITCHELL FEINBERG; CANALI BY PHOTO BY SPEEDY sizedoesmatter.

Ralph Lauren Blue Label’s cotton mesh polo shirt dress. PHOTO BY Bruce Weber

W’S SEPTEMBER 2005 ISSUE ON SALE: AUGUST 5 | SPACE CLOSE: JULY 5 CONTACT JENNIFER BEHRE MOCCIA AT 212.630.4904

MAKE A STATEMENT 14 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005

Publicist Wanted BUSINESS To promote silk artist/designer of a custom art-to-wear apparel line willing to work VENTURES for trade. Call Jasmine: 305-923-9589 Close Out Wanted in Men’s, Womens & Children’s Clothing. Budget to A leading Womens Apparel manu- moderate pricing. Big quantities possible [email protected] Scott 212-997-7487 facturer is seeking existing entities for possible acquisition. You will be responsible for sales, design & merchandising. We will provide fi- Retail Opportunity nancing, back office, shipping 19 locations averaging 35,000 sq ft, selling hard & soft lines on consign- and production support. Send ment, needs additional product. Joint Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. any inquiries in confidence to: No Lot Too Big or Too Small. venture or full ownership considered. Call CLOTHES-OUT: 212-764-8957 or to Fax inquiry to (704) 694-2526 (937) 898-2975 [email protected]

SWEATER LIAISON 2 year old Contemporary Sweater Co. with $3 million sales selling catalogs, FASHION RESUMES 2 Million OTB specialty and multi-unit chain stores Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail WANTED: Ladies’ Fall Closeouts; seeks liaison / involvement with China Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Sweaters, Knits & Woven Tops factory or company with knitwear GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Call or E-mail Harry at: production and back-end support. (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa 212-764-4626 / [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 997-4350 fashionresumes.com Open seeing day: Fri., 6/24, 9am - 12pm or E-mail: sweaterliaison @yahoo.com fashioncareercenter.com 1385 Broadway; Rm. 905

37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 810 Broadway-Union Square 2,500 sq. ft. + bsmts. Retail Space. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 www.dumann.com For Space in Garment Center Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 212-880-0414 Search For Space In Garment Center Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee www.midcomre.com Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 PATTERN/SAMPLES Showrooms & Lofts Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Full servcie shop to the trade. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

231 W 39th St Showroom Bookkeeper/ DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGNER Prime space for rent/NYC. Excellent for Junior cut & sew/sweater importer seeks ASSISTANT DESIGNER contemporary line(s). Renovated. Great Office Manager highly motivated self-starter to join our Wearealeading Junior import company Price. Avail now. 600 sq/ft. 310.474.2207 Exp’d Bookkeeper/Office Manager design team. Responsibilities include specializing in knitwear for Juniors with needed for well established sales agency assisting with: sketch, specing, fittings, an immediate opening. Candidate must in fashion industry. Fast paced envi- boards, knowledge of CAD is a plus. possess a minimum of 2 yrs. experience, ronment, must multi-task. Knowledge Recent Grad OK. have work with Illustrator & Photoshop. SHOWROOM TO SHARE of bank recs, A/R, A/P, Excel & Quick SALES EXECUTIVE Individual must be multi-task oriented, 1407 BROADWAY- Immediate Occupancy. books a must! Will be responsible demonstrate great organizational skills, ASSISTANT BUYER Leading importer of knits & sweater possess high energy level & love fashion! Includes: desks, phones & showroom. 2 Positions Available for order entry, commission reports & seeks Salesperson with 5+ yrs. exp. Call Jeff to discuss @ (516) 428-6767 High powered, self starting Assistant invoicing. 3-5 yrs experience necessary. Please fax resume, attn. Design Director 1) TECHNICAL DESIGNER Buyer for fast growing, profitable Mid- Must have strong mgmt. relationships (212) 719-4903 At least 2 years working experience Fax resume to: (212) 382-1021 with Dept. & Specialty stores. Must be Atlantic off-price retailer. Candidates Immediate Hire. in TD fields in the multinational must have at least 2 yrs. assistant buyers motivated, organized & willing to take companies in the apparel industry. experience in Men’s apparel, PLUS strong business to the next level! Responsibility to esure the conformity negotiation, analytical, written, verbal, of garment sample to corporate specs PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Designer Associate and decision-making skills. Off - price BOOKKEEPER Import co. seeks organized, detail ori- Large public sportswear apparel mfr. and provide technical advice to buying or similar experience a must! Part time position. Looking for full merchants & clients on apprpriateness ented & computer literate team player seeks motivated, creative indiv. w/ Salary commensurate with experience. charge bookkeeper through general with some knowledge of import docu- strong communication & organizational of sample, fitting, construction and Fax resumes and salary history in con- ledger. All monthly reconciliations. grading. mentation. Must have good communi- skills. Must be a team player with Illus- fidence to (304) 292-1387, Attn: Allison Should have exp w/ factor statements. cation & follow-up skills. trator & Photoshop a MUST, as well as, 2) BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Fax resume to Leah at 212-730-7872 Please fax resume to: (212) 840-0487 ability to complete spec sheets & design DEPUTY MANAGER Assistant/General Office boards. 3-5 yrs exp. All major benefits. At least 3 years working experience Ladies Wear Co. NYC needs professional Salary commensurate w/ exp. Mid-town in business development fields in person for general office help in A/P, CAD/Graphic Designer NYC based. Fax Resume Attention: the textile & apparel industry A/R, Order Entry. Leading import co. specializing in knit High Quality Knit Fax resume: 212-869-3314 ATT: David Carmela 212-556-5462 The following is req’d. for both positions. wear for Juniors has immediate opening. Prod’n & Sales Reps • University graduate or above Candidate must be proficient in Quark, Midtown high quality knit contractor • Good command of English & Chinese ASSISTANT TO Illustrator, Photoshop & flat sketching. design assistant seeks established manufacturers for • Working location is Taipei, Taiwan Must have excellent graphic and color proficient w/adobe illustrator, excel and domestic production. Fast turnaround. SALES DIRECTOR sense, be self-motivated, organized & word. detail oriented, extremely organ- DESIGNER Weprovide an attractive compensation ized. responsibilities include sample 5000 and up per week. Also seeking &benefits package. Please E-mail your work well in a fast paced team environ- Better dress company seeks experienced sales reps for domestic production. NY AREA ment. Minimum of 2 years experience. and trim organization, resourcing & designer to head new special occasions resume, autobiography with photo and linesheet development. Call Jon 212-563-3015 expected salary to: [email protected] Swimwear Company is seeking a detail Please fax resume, attn. Design Director line. Great opportunity and resources! oriented, highly motivated & multi-task (212) 719-4903 please email resume to: Minimum of 5 years experience. individual to assist busy sales director. [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 217-6081 or Knowledge in sales, merchandising & no phone calls Email: [email protected] ADMINISTRATIVE office administration desired. Computer COUTURE SEWERS Make a Mistake? ASSISTANT literacy, Excel & some experience in Well est’d couture co. seeks hard We do all kinds of garment construction. apparel a must. Great benefits package working experienced sewers & or tailors Need price tickets or label sizes ADRIANNA PAPELL & opportunity for growth. who have a strong background work in Design Designer - Costume Jewelry changed? Need items repackaged, Dress/Evening wear co. seeks a bright, INDEPENDENT custom evening wear. Fast paced Be part of an exiting, fast paced, Fast growing co. seeks Designer for Kids/ stored or re-shipped? No project personable individual to answer phones, environment with hectic deadlines. environment. Rapidly growing Private Jr./Missy Jewelry. Min. 3 - 5 years exp. too small or too big. We’re quick, greet guests & assist with various ad- SALES REP Opportunities for growth. label & branded sportswear co. seeks: Sourcing, Asia travel & Illustrator/Photo- efficient & priced just right! ministrative duties. Must be computer Please call (212) 869-2296 Designer-Sportswear 3-5 yr exp shop a plus. Fax resume: 212-714-0046 Call Noreen (718) 985-9788 literate (Word & Excel req’d.) Knowl- Established Swimwear Company is Assistant Designers 2-3 yr exp edge of Photoshop, Image Info & ap- seeking highly motivated & experienced Tech Design Assistants 2-3 yr exp parel industry a +. Email resume to: Independent Sales Rep for its North If you are a self starter, team player, [email protected] East/Mid Atlantic region. Must have Customer Service and no attitude and are looking for a Juniors/Contemporary sales background Hot multi-line showroom seeks motivated, great place for growth and advance- DESIGNER Admin Since 1967 &the ability to service and open new detail oriented individual to handle all ment, then this is the place for you! Highly successful junior knitwear co. W-I-N-S-T-O-N accounts. phases of Customer Service including Good health benefits and dental seeking a Designer for Junior division. Please forward resumes to: order processing, answering busy phones, Please fax your resume: 212-869-5167 Ideal candidate has a 3-5 yrs. minimum APPAREL STAFFING [email protected] handling all customer inquiries, organ- experience designing in Junior or con- BINDYA ACCESSORIES DESIGN * SALES * MERCH izing trade shows, handling PR, etc. temporary market, with import experi- SAMPLE SALE ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Asst. Technical Designer Must be able to multi-task in a fast paced ence in cut & sew, and sweaters. Must (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Well known intimate apparel company, environment. Computer skills a must. be highly creative, organized, self starter, Embroidered & Beaded Tunics; Jewelled candidate must have a knowledge of Work with the best lines including Designer $150-$175k. Current exp. in who thrives in a fast paced team envi- Skirts; Beaded Slippers Shawl, Scarves APPAREL JOBS all technical aspects of design. Must Alice & Trixie, Joystick, Fourtys, J & Co., better contemp. handbags. Fashion ronment. Photoshop & Illustrator skills Tues., 6/21 & Wed., 6/22; 10 am - 6pm 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs know Photoshop or Illustrator, be self plus more! 2-3 years experience req’d. vision of BCBG, Donna Karan, Theory required. If you love fashion and met 60 West 38th St., N Y.C. / 212-730-8852 3)Designers-assoc-assist. boy-girl-YG men-Jr motivated, able to multi-task, must be a GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Fax/E-mail etc for dept. store market of top the above qualifications, please fax your Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) team player. Fax resume (212) 481-7498 resumes: 212-382-1021 / [email protected] licensed name. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. resume, attn. HR Dept. at: ( 212) 719-4903 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2005 15

DESIGN Patternmaker Import company has the following Head Patternmaker QUALITY CONTROL opportunities in our design team: Well established Leading pants Mfr. SUPERVISOR • Kids & JR. Denim Designer seeks patternmaker who can take charge, Growing New Jersey domestic/import • Ladies Sportswear Designer be technical & work closely with designer. manufacturer seeks individual to develop, We’re seeking creative and trendy Experience a MUST! Excellent Benefits. implement and maintain systems to en- Director of individuals w/ exp. in all phases of Email resume: [email protected] sure compliance with customer quality design. Detail oriented, organized and standards & regulations. Will also inter- Wholesale Sales professional is a must in our fast paced face with other departments. Qualified environment. candidates will be aggressive, have good A fast growing women’s •Cad Artist/Designer communication & computer skills, have Individual must be strong with patternmaker at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing luxury/contemporary brand embroidery design and prints. minimum 5 years experience for environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. seeks a highly motivated & All applicants must have exp. and be contemporary market draper & 1st Email resume and salary req’s. to: energetic professional to proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. pattern. must be detail oriented & [email protected] extremely organized, computer skills a help us grow! Must be Pls E-mail resumes to: organized go-getter with at [email protected] plus. please email resume to: RECEPTIONIST/ [email protected] least 2 yrs experience. sell- no phone calls DATA ENTRY ing to both major dept. Established midtown textile firm seeks a motivated individual with stores & small boutiques. ability to multi task. Must be computer Please fax your resumes to DESIGN/PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER literate. Duties include email commu- Anne at: 646-607-6448. MISS ELAINE, INC. nication, data entry, filing. Excellent ASSISTANT Women’s sleepwear / robe company benefits. Fax resume: 212-354-2674 Girls Sportswear Co. seeks a dynamic seeks motivated, highly skilled pro- team player to assist in production and duction patternmaker to join our team. RETAIL To $200K design. Responsibilities include: color Needs 10 years experience and must approvals, comments on screens, and be an excellent draper. Please call 212- REAL ESTATE MANAGER data entry. Candidate must be highly 642-4326 and fax resume 212-642-4264. Evaluate Properties Nationwide organized, detail oriented & proficient [email protected] Apparel Trim Mfr. in Excel. Good company benefits! Seeking a Sales Rep in the New York Please fax resume Attn: Cathy City and surrounding area. Experience 646-562-9650 Phila Patmaker $58K Sales Assistant selling hang tags, woven labels, bar-code [email protected] 212-947-3400 Busy Children’s Wear Co seeking exp’d tickets, stickers, and printed labels is a and dynamic person to work as must. Offering guaranteed draw against sales assistant. Must be knowledgea- commission plus expense. Please Fax Divisional Merchandise ble in Retail Link, computer literate, or E-mail resumes to: 323-838-8313 organized and detail oriented. [email protected] Manager "PLAN AHEAD" Please fax resume to (646) 827-9114 For fast growing, profitable Mid-Atlantic 15 Planners and Assistant Planners off-price retailer. Candidates must have (All levels and Areas) a college degree (or equivalent experi- Sales Assistant ence), familiarity with merchandising Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708, Intimate Apparel co. seeks motivated, and replenishment systems, tools, and Email: [email protected] self-starter to support a fast paced sales processes. Minimum of 5 yrs. experience team. Candidate will be responsible for as a Senior Buyer or DMM with an off all facets of sales support. Strong BRANDED DENIM SALESPEOPLE -pricemulti-unit organization. Strong PROD DVL CHILDRENS ...... 100-200K organizational skills and energetic International Men’s & Women’s denim interpersonal and communication skills a TECH DESIGNERS (All areas)40-100K personality a must. Please fax your collections launching in US. Looking must. Please fax resumes and salary ACCT EXECS/ASSTS...... 40-100K resume: 212-213-9345 Attn: Paula for exp’d & aggressive salespeople with history in confidence, Attn: Allison SWEATERS ( Tech/Design/Prod) ....40-90K strong ability to promote our brand (304) 292-1387 PLANNERS (All levels)...... 35-110K to specialty / better dept. stores. Retail SAMPLE MAKER $$$$$ references a must. Please send resume to: DESIGNERS (Sr. & Asst.) ...... 35-100K Sportswear Collection Runway Designer Fax: (212) 395-9001 or PRODUCTION COOR ...... 35-85K [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email: [email protected] ORDER ENTRY (EDI or AS400)25-30K EDI Coordinator/ Sewer w/ Experience Data Processing - children’s dresses, pleated skirts, Is the Garment Center Fast growing imptr. seeks exp’d person wovens tops/bottoms - must be able to interpret paper leaving you unfulfilled? w/ knowledge of Walmart, Sears and Many other oppty’s Temp & Perm Make the phone your friend again. JCPenney. Process EDI and ASN patterns, sew/make guide samples, Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708 sew small production line, etc... Do you have the drive, skills, passion & transmissions. Follow-up and possess Email: [email protected] belief in yourself that you can achieve knowledge of customer shipping - must be able to speak English Call 212-575-5770 more? Our Financial Services company req’s, inventory reports & allocations, is rapidly expanding & needs energetic invoicing & process billing. Track &talented individuals for our Sales purchase orders & communicate with Prod’n Coord $60K Sewing Room Supervisor team. Are you ready to move forward warehouse regarding order status. Wovens, Knits, Better Sportswear Mfr professionally & financially in a new Please fax resume to: (212) 563-5260 Strong Cutting Tickets, Inventory & Sweater manufacturer has immediate opening in Miami Lakes, FL. Must be career? No cold calling. No commission. or Email: [email protected] Spread Sheet Exp. Offices in Manhattan & Englewood [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 experienced from knitting to finished garment. Fax resume (305) 557-7265 or Cliffs, NJ. Please e-mail resume & email to: [email protected] cover letter to: [email protected] Production Assistant EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Well established Sportswear Company Shipping Coordinator seeks Production Assistant, min 3 yrs. Schedule and track shipments and Muse 7th Ave. Prod., Merch, Sales, Cust. Svc. Dress Co. seeks a SALES MANAGER [email protected] experience. Follow up on fabric, trim work with custom broker. Experience orders, communication with Chinese required. Please forward resume to: to run dress division. Please Fax resumes factories. Please fax resumes to: E-mail: [email protected] to Camille at: 201-964-5802 212-391-3970 Fabric Head Converter Sweater/Sourcing VP $90K TOP $$$ Computer literate - Team player. PRODUCTION Prod’n Mgr Sweater $65-85K Leading Importer of budget / popular Customer contact skills required. Source, Load, Factories, Pricing priced junior, plus size & girls knit Experienced only. Midtown location. ASSISTANT [email protected] 212-947-3400 tops & bottoms seeks exp’d salesperson. Fax 212-921-0261. Young Men’s Fashion Co. seeking a Must be aggressive and have detail oriented and highly organized established major accounts. Work applicant to assist our production dept. TD Wovens/Knits/Sweaters directly with mgmt. Excellent oppty. Must be familiar with sweaters and/or *SWEATERS-TD Bet Bridge $55-70K Salary + Commission outerwear and have the ability to work *FULLY Fashion Knit TD $65-70K Fax resume to: 212-302-2669 with overseas factories. Minimum five *SWEATER Cut/Sew Knit Spec Tech $35-45K LAB OPERATOR years technical/production exp. req’d. *WOVENS TD-Better/Bridge $70-85K TEXTILE / GARMENT Computer proficiency is a MUST! *WOVENS TD-Missy Tailor Suits $60-80K Please send resumes to: *SLEEPWEAR/Lingerie TD $80K A fast growing childrenswear company [email protected] is looking for a sharp individual to [email protected] 212-947-3400 operate a textile / garment testing lab. Some experience with textile / garment testing is required. On the job training Production Asst $35-40K Technical Assistant for the right candidate. Fax resume w/ Better Sportswear Mnfg. Strong PC Skills New Jersey based company seeks salary requirement to: 484-762-5105 [email protected] 212-947-3400 applicant with 2 yrs. experience. Must be able to spec and measure produc- tion samples, evaluate fit and commu- nicate fit comments daily with Asia. Must have computer skills. Fax your resume to: 201-867-2240 Lingerie/Sleepwear TD Attn: V.P. Human Resources Most Territories Available * TD DIRECTOR $125K California Designer of Women’s Leather * TD MANAGER $110-115K Technical Designer Jackets, Shoes, and Handbags, is seeking * SENIOR TD $80-90K Major branded & private label girl’s Independent Sales Reps with established [email protected] 212-947-3400 dress/sportswear company seeks relationships to high end Specialty Technical Designer for NY office. Stores. Please E-mail resumes to: Production Coordinator Minimum 3-5 years experience [email protected] Indiv. w/exp, detail oriented, hard required. Must be knowledgeable in Menswear $$$$$$ working & organized. Follow up for all spec development, garment construc- phase products. Technical garment, tion, grading, and fit approval process. * JEANS TD $80K exp. of private labels & special knowl. * UNDERWEAR TD $55K Will work with factories overseas. ROAD REPS req. Communicated w/overseas. Fluent Pattern making a plus. Need strong Leading bridal manufacturer seeks * SWEATER TD $55K in Eng/Canto . Good computer skills. [email protected] 212-947-3400 communication and PC skills. We offer experienced Road Salespeople to Fax to 212-695-0203 competitive salary/benefits package. represent line in the West & Southeast email: [email protected] Fax resume with salary requirements territories. Please fax resume to: to 212-643-1345 or email (212) 967-1682 [email protected] MERCHANDISER/$50-70K Licensing Coordinator PRODUCTION MANAGER Very successful, branded Jr. urban Exciting Opportunity in SHANGHAI! Technical Designer line seeks bright, highly organized Individual needed for a western buying Missy / Junior / Kids Sweater Co seeks person to be a liaison between licensee office exporting mostly Outwear and indiv able to create details, develop & licensor. Req. Knowl. of product Accessories all over the world for over 10 spec / graded spec / fitting and quality (Jr. apparel pref), excel. comm./ppl. years. USA Merchandising experience a control. Understand full fashion and skills, prev. rel. expr. E-mail resume: must. Fax or E-mail resume to: domestic sweater. [email protected] 212-898-0302 / [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 917-591-2521 Ph: 212-481-1941 Technical Designer PRODUCTION OPENINGS N.Y. agent doing big volume business in *Techn. Dsgnr-Bridge Sportswear Mfr Merch/Designer $130K + Dresses & Sportswear in China seeks an *Techn. Dsgnr-CWR Woven Bottom Wgts (1) Jr Sweaters (1) Contemp Sweaters exp’d. individual w/understanding of *Spec Techn.-Dsgnr Label Knit Tops MIAMI (1) Childrens Collection import/export production & piece goods. *Asst Tech Dsgnr-Knit & Woven Sptswr Mfr PATTERNMAKER - Very Experienced [email protected] Please Fax or E-mail Barry Pessar at: www.apparelstaffing.com Seeking Position 212-391-4497 / [email protected] Call: (212) 302-0216 Fax: (212) 302-1161 Call Leon Guekjian @ 305-302-5134 Control your destiny.

What to Watch 2005 Issue dates: July 5-8, 11 Close: four days prior to issue dates

Establish your brand’s positive outlook for the second half of 2005 in the issues that tell readers, category by category, what’s on the horizon for the rest of the year — insight and information industry executives will use as an essential planning tool to move their businesses forward.

What to Watch categories may include: accessories, active lifestyle, beauty, contemporary, denim, designer, financial, fine jewelry & watches, innerwear, juniors’, legwear, mainstream, outerwear, ready-to-wear, sportswear and textiles.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide®