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The Feminine Mystique

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The Feminine Mystique WhereThe the WealthyInside: Shop Pg. 12 MADONNA’S NEW LIGHT/3 SPORTS STORES SCORE/11 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 3, 2004 • $2.00 List The Feminine Sportswear Mystique PARIS — Trust John Galliano to put a romantic spin on his first cruise collection for his own label. Girly and fresh, with just a touch of Eliza Doolittle, the looks are full of feminine details, from cocktail jackets with tiny chiffon bows lined up along the seams to bags and shoes that sport beaded butterflies. Here, his shapely, ladybug-patterned jacket, over a cutaway ruffled number, worn with a flowered hat. For more on the line, and a look at Dior cruise, see pages 6 and 7. Another Lap of Luxury: Neiman Net Soars 67% And Pace Strong for Fall By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Neiman Marcus Group blew out the lights in the third quarter. The specialty retailer on Wednesday posted a 67.4 percent jump in income for the three months ended May 1, along with an 80.4 percent spike in profits for the corresponding nine months. On a conference call with investors, Burt Tansky, president and chief executive officer, said shoppers at the retailer were not pulling back on their spending. “We can see that through continued full-price selling, which is very strong See Full-Price, Page 13 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL Neiman Marcus Group posted a 67.4 percent jump in third-quarter income to $68.8 million, with sales rising 21.4 percent to $877.6 million. ™ 1 EYE: Fishing around with artist Thierry Despont…Singing a French tune with A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 4 Marie-Amelie Seigner…Shopping with the American Friends of Versailles. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated FASHION: John Galliano is lei-ing on the Polynesian spirit at Christian Dior, 6 while his signature line is in cruise control. DENIM DISH: Getting an Armhole into the business…Squeeze is set to INJEANUITY 9 pour out a new image campaign…1921, it was a very good year. New denim designs command top dollar Retail entrepreneur Philip Green could face a major antitrust hurdle if his In 1980, Brooke Shields claimed that nothing “It most definitely has to do with the fit, the 13 proposed bid for Marks & Spencer is successful. came between her and her Calvins. Today, very feeling, the washes and the details,” affirms Mike Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 little – including an eye-popping price tag – stands Karanikolas, a spokesperson for Revolveclothing.com To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is between women and their favorite pair of jeans. which sells both Chip & Pepper and Paper Denim [email protected], using the individual’s name. “They may be expensive but they're worth it,” & Cloth on its site, in addition to many other WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 shares Courtney, with regard to her new $130 premier brands of denim. “Women are always FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. looking for the next thing in denim.” VOLUME 187, NO. 115. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional low-rise AG's, which are just one in an arsenal of issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three denim brands selling for more than $100. The That desire, asserts Karanikolas, is what fuels additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; 35-year-old attorney admits, “I also have a pair of women to try a variety of premium labels, even Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Seven and a pair of Citizens of when they already own a Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Humanity. I get great wear out significant cache of high-end President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at of them and I feel terrific jeans. And they most certainly additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. in them.” will be shopping and experi- POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. And, for that, the price is menting, according to the FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is certainly justified, declares Monitor. In the first quarter of required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new 2004, 85.8% of women stated subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Drew Neisser, president correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, and chief executive officer that denim would be part of please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully of Renegade Marketing, a their future wardrobes. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive New York City-based brand And that may explain why these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED consultancy. “You do get Karanikolas sees many return MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND what you pay for even with customers for top dollar jeans, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED expensive jeans. The more although he does feel there is a TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE expensive ones fit better, look tipping point for consumers. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. better and the value is there “Women are willing to spend, since they get worn all the “Women are always looking for the but in their minds there usually time,” he opines. next thing in denim.” is a limit, whether it’s $350 When asked what brands – Mike Karanikolas, or $150.” Whether that limit In Brief his organization considers hot RevolveClothing.com is in theory or in practice, in the premium denim market, Karanikolas does reveal that ● WHITEHALL VP: Whitehall Jewellers, Inc. has named Debbie Neisser affirms those already in Courtney's closet, his current top seller is a $215 pair of jeans by Nicodemus-Volker as executive vice president of merchandising. Tr ue Religion. Prior to joining Whitehall, she was vice president of merchandis- and adds a few others certain to put a sting in ing and planning for Donna Karan International in New York. the stylish pocketbook. “Our fashion forward Regardless of price, if you want to preserve She also served as vice president for merchandise planning and Renegades lean toward Seven, AG, Citizens the wash and fit of your beloved denim, there procurement for European brands at Duty Free Shoppers, which, of Humanity, Earl, James Jeans and the high are ways of achieving your goal, says Alan like Donna Karan, is a division of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis end D&G, Helmut Lang, Stella McCartney, Spielvogel, spokesperson for the National Cleaners Vuitton. Nicodemus-Volker will report to chief executive officer Prada and Gucci. It doesn't hurt that lots of the Association. “If you want to keep a deep color, Hugh Patinkin. Her position had been open since December when Lynn Eisenheim was fired, due to a violation of company high-end designers featured denim in their latest dry clean it,” he advises. “If you want to achieve policy with respect to its documentation regarding the age of cer- collections for everything from jeans to handbags. a more faded look, a washing machine is your best tain store inventory. Whitehall continues to be one of 14 defen- Even Levi's has come up with a couture line.” friend.” For a truly well worn look, Spielvogel dants in a lawsuit filed by Capital Factors Inc. last August in All of these factors are recommends adding pumice Manhattan federal district court. The suit accuses Cosmopolitan certainly making an impact Feelings about Denim stones or vinegar to the Gem Corp. of fraud and 13 other defendants, including Whitehall at retail. Despite a denim machine. “You can maintain Jewellers, of having “aided and abetted or participated in the al- leged fraud,” a charge Whitehall intends to fight.
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