WhereThe the Wealthy ShopInside: Pg. 12 MADONNA’S NEW LIGHT/3 SPORTS STORES SCORE/11 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 3, 2004 • $2.00 List The Feminine Sportswear Mystique

PARIS — Trust John Galliano to put a romantic spin on his first cruise collection for his own label. Girly and fresh, with just a touch of Eliza Doolittle, the looks are full of feminine details, from cocktail jackets with tiny chiffon bows lined up along the seams to bags and shoes that sport beaded butterflies. Here, his shapely, ladybug-patterned jacket, over a cutaway ruffled number, worn with a flowered hat. For more on the line, and a look at Dior cruise, see pages 6 and 7. Another Lap of Luxury: Neiman Net Soars 67% And Pace Strong for Fall

By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Neiman Marcus Group blew out the lights in the third quarter. The specialty retailer on Wednesday posted a 67.4 percent jump in income for the three months ended May 1, along with an 80.4 percent spike in profits for the corresponding nine months. On a conference call with investors, Burt Tansky, president and chief executive officer, said shoppers at the retailer were not pulling back on their spending. “We can see that through continued full-price selling, which is very strong

See Full-Price, Page 13 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL Neiman Marcus Group posted a 67.4 percent jump in third-quarter income to $68.8 million, with sales rising 21.4 percent to $877.6 million. ™ 1 EYE: Fishing around with artist Thierry Despont…Singing a French tune with A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 4 Marie-Amelie Seigner…Shopping with the American Friends of Versailles. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated FASHION: John Galliano is lei-ing on the Polynesian spirit at Christian Dior, 6 while his signature line is in cruise control. DENIM DISH: Getting an Armhole into the business…Squeeze is set to INJEANUITY 9 pour out a new image campaign…1921, it was a very good year. New denim designs command top dollar Retail entrepreneur Philip Green could face a major antitrust hurdle if his In 1980, Brooke Shields claimed that nothing “It most definitely has to do with the fit, the 13 proposed bid for Marks & Spencer is successful. came between her and her Calvins. Today, very feeling, the washes and the details,” affirms Mike Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 little – including an eye-popping price tag – stands Karanikolas, a spokesperson for Revolveclothing.com To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is between women and their favorite pair of jeans. which sells both Chip & Pepper and Paper Denim [email protected], using the individual’s name. “They may be expensive but they're worth it,” & Cloth on its site, in addition to many other WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 shares Courtney, with regard to her new $130 premier brands of denim. “Women are always FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. looking for the next thing in denim.” VOLUME 187, NO. 115. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional low-rise AG's, which are just one in an arsenal of issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three denim brands selling for more than $100. The That desire, asserts Karanikolas, is what fuels additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; 35-year-old attorney admits, “I also have a pair of women to try a variety of premium labels, even Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Seven and a pair of Citizens of when they already own a Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Humanity. I get great wear out significant cache of high-end President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at of them and I feel terrific jeans. And they most certainly additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. in them.” will be shopping and experi- POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. And, for that, the price is menting, according to the FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is certainly justified, declares Monitor. In the first quarter of required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new 2004, 85.8% of women stated subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Drew Neisser, president correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, and chief executive officer that denim would be part of please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully of Renegade Marketing, a their future wardrobes. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive New York City-based brand And that may explain why these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED consultancy. “You do get Karanikolas sees many return MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND what you pay for even with customers for top dollar jeans, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED expensive jeans. The more although he does feel there is a TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE expensive ones fit better, look tipping point for consumers. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. better and the value is there “Women are willing to spend, since they get worn all the “Women are always looking for the but in their minds there usually time,” he opines. next thing in denim.” is a limit, whether it’s $350 When asked what brands – Mike Karanikolas, or $150.” Whether that limit In Brief his organization considers hot RevolveClothing.com is in theory or in practice, in the premium denim market, Karanikolas does reveal that ● WHITEHALL VP: Whitehall Jewellers, Inc. has named Debbie Neisser affirms those already in Courtney's closet, his current top seller is a $215 pair of jeans by Nicodemus-Volker as executive vice president of merchandising. Tr ue Religion. Prior to joining Whitehall, she was vice president of merchandis- and adds a few others certain to put a sting in ing and planning for Donna Karan International in New York. the stylish pocketbook. “Our fashion forward Regardless of price, if you want to preserve She also served as vice president for merchandise planning and Renegades lean toward Seven, AG, Citizens the wash and fit of your beloved denim, there procurement for European brands at Duty Free Shoppers, which, of Humanity, Earl, James Jeans and the high are ways of achieving your goal, says Alan like Donna Karan, is a division of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis end D&G, Helmut Lang, Stella McCartney, Spielvogel, spokesperson for the National Cleaners Vuitton. Nicodemus-Volker will report to chief executive officer Prada and Gucci. It doesn't hurt that lots of the Association. “If you want to keep a deep color, Hugh Patinkin. Her position had been open since December when Lynn Eisenheim was fired, due to a violation of company high-end designers featured denim in their latest dry clean it,” he advises. “If you want to achieve policy with respect to its documentation regarding the age of cer- collections for everything from jeans to handbags. a more faded look, a washing machine is your best tain store inventory. Whitehall continues to be one of 14 defen- Even Levi's has come up with a couture line.” friend.” For a truly well worn look, Spielvogel dants in a lawsuit filed by Capital Factors Inc. last August in All of these factors are recommends adding pumice Manhattan federal district court. The suit accuses Cosmopolitan certainly making an impact Feelings about Denim stones or vinegar to the Gem Corp. of fraud and 13 other defendants, including Whitehall at retail. Despite a denim machine. “You can maintain Jewellers, of having “aided and abetted or participated in the al- leged fraud,” a charge Whitehall intends to fight. ownership that is at an all- Denim Is Not for Me 2.6% or change the color of Some Denim, Don't Wear Much 22.1% time high, female consumers your denim with the right ● ROCKY ROAD: Poiray, the French jeweler, has been granted are keen to continually Enjoy Wearing Denim 53.4% cleaning methods.” four months to pull itself out of the red, the company said in a add new items to their Wardrobe Is Full of Denim/Love It 20.7% With regard to color, look statement Wednesday. The troubled Paris-based firm filed for wardrobes, according to the for medium blue to be the the French equivalent of Chapter 11 debt protection late last month. Founded in the mid-Seventies, the house lost about Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™. In 2003, next important statement in washes, asserts the $408,000, or 334,500 euros, over the last three years. Sales last women estimated that they owned, on average, 8 Monitor. More than 38% of female consumers year were $7.3 million, or 6 million euros. Dollar figures have pairs of jeans and 18 denim garments, which indicated that their next denim purchase would be been converted at current exchange rates. Poiray, owned by includes jeans, shorts, jackets, shirts, dresses, skirts medium blue, followed by 24.2% seeking dark Swiss investment fund Lac Investment, employs some 35 people and overalls. For the current year, 25% admitted denim and 16.9% light blue. in France and operates four boutiques in the country. It also has that they would likely buy several items, while According to Renegade Marketing’s Neisser, a subsidiary in Switzerland, which is not affected by the deci- sion. “The management will do everything in its power to save 49% said that they were likely to buy one or two “Denim delivers the usually unobtainable blend the jobs in Paris, which should remain the center of the firm’s denim items. of fashion, comfort and versatility. Denim is both jewelry creation,” the firm said. Jean-loving Courtney says she already has her eye an old friend and a hot date. It's got a touch of on her next purchase. “Probably a pair of Chip & rebel without the bad aftertaste of black leather. ● STILL TAXING: New York State would once again delay the Pepper or Paper Denim & Cloth,” some more Denim is fun,” he states. elimination of the 4.25 percent sales tax on clothing and That element of fun, combined with feeling, footwear that cost less than $110, this time until July 31, accord- names in the premium denim mix. ing to legislation that has passed the New York State Senate and “Our jeans make you look hot,” asserts Pepper fashion and fit, may best explain why women can’t Assembly. The sales tax generates about $400 million in annual Foster, one half of the design duo behind Chip & get enough of denim at any price. And why not? revenues, but lawmakers voted last year to eliminate it to make Pepper, a California-inspired line of denim. “Each “You can wear it 365 days a year, baby!” exclaims New York more competitive with neighboring states that don’t jean is handmade and it's a high-end product,” his Pepper Foster. “So bring it on!” have a clothing sales tax. twin brother, Chip, adds. “They offer a classic This story is one in a series of articles based on findings ● DOL’S CHANGING GUARD: The U.S. Department of Labor said universal fit, but it's also about the style, the wash from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Wednesday that Alfred Burgess Robinson Jr. will become acting and the details.” tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, administrator of its wage and hour division on June 14. The divi- “There's a quality to the cut and sew that we each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the sion oversees the enforcement of such labor laws as minimum offer with a sexy, flattering fit,” relates Paper Denim American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes wage, overtime and child labor in a variety of sectors, including & Cloth president Chris Gilbert. “It's also about and behavior regarding clothing, the apparel industry. Burgess succeeds outgoing director Tammy the details, the sophisticated finishes, the washes McCutchen, who is leaving to take a position at a law firm. appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Before joining the DOL in March 2001, Burgess served as a and contrast stitching.” many other timely, relevant subjects. member of the South Carolina House of Representatives. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 3 Madonna Endorses Kabbalah’s Light

NEW YORK — Madonna is clearly serious about Kabbalah Kabbalah — so much so that she’s helped develop and is endorsing a line of Kabbalah candles. And so are candles. Kabbalah devotees Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher. The candles have been created by Slatkin & Co., whose president, Harry Slatkin, is also a devotee of the practice. Kabbalah is a mystical branch of Judaism that counts an increasing number of Hollywood A-listers among its followers. Perfume was created in 4000 B.C.“ to keep the bad spirits away and bring the good spirits to you — so it was a natural for Kabbalah to do a line of candles.” — Harry Slatkin, Slatkin & Co. myrrh and cinnamon. Each is red, the signature color of Kabbalah, and will come with a bracelet in the same The candles will be available in eight fragrances, all of hue, worn by Kabbalah believers on the left wrist to which were developed with Madonna’s help. She also ap- ward off evil spirits. proved the look and feel of the line, called simply Kabbalah. The candles will launch in September at Barneys, The fragrances are all based on the 72 different names Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in the U.S., and of God that Kabbalah recognizes and include Sexual Selfridges, Liberty and House of Frasier in the U.K. Energy, Spiritual Cleansing, Evil Eye, Dreamstate, DNA Twenty percent of the $20 retail price will be donated to of the Soul, Passion, Happiness and Power of Prosperity. the Kabbalah Centre’s Spirituality for Kids Foundation, The idea, said Slatkin, is to have each which “provides children with an un- burning in an appropriate area of the derstanding of the laws of the uni- house. Evil Eye, for example, can be verse,” according to the organization. placed near the front door to ward off BEAUTY BEAT Slatkin declined to comment on evil spirits, while Sexual Energy — not whether or not the Material Girl, who surprisingly — lends itself to the bedroom. just kicked off her Reinvention tour, would be making To create the scents for the candles, Slatkin went back in-store appearances to support the line, but didn’t rule to the Bible, researching different ingredients used by out the possibility. Madonna isn’t the only Hollywood the ancients. “In Latin, perfume means wall of smoke,” powerhouse aligning herself with a beauty project this he said. “Perfume was created in 4000 B.C. to keep the fall. As reported, Nicole Kidman, Beyoncé Knowles, bad spirits away and bring the good spirits to you — so it Scarlett Johansson and Britney Spears, among others, Madonna and her daughter, Lourdes. was a natural for Kabbalah to do a line of candles.” are all involved in fragrance-related endeavors. Ingredients in the candles include frankincense, — Jenny B. Fine Report: Low-Wage Nations Import Share to Surge

By Scott Malone China’s more than 90 percent share of the shoe and toy markets. Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations — a NEW YORK — The world’s 58 lowest-wage nations will hold a 67 percent share of the group that lobbies on behalf of domestic mills — said he thought Bernard’s market U.S. garment market by 2011, growing from the current 41 percent, according to a share forecast was low. new study. “That seems very conservative,” he said Wednesday, adding that he believes it’s The report, called “Facing the Dragon: Prospects for U.S. Manufacturers in the important to consider China’s prospects apart from those of other low-wage nations. Coming Decade,” also forecast what many in the industry have been fretting over: The 58 nations on Bernard’s list were selected for low gross domestic products, the U.S. apparel manufacturing industry will be hit hard by the growing exports of which, on a per capita basis during the years from 1972 to 2001, represented less the world’s poorest nations following the dropping of quotas among the 147 nations than 0.1 percent of the U.S. per capita GDP. The list includes some nations that are of the World Trade Organization on Jan. 1. currently major suppliers of textiles and apparel to the U.S. — such as China, “Basically, it’s bad news when a country like China enters your market,” said India, Honduras and Vietnam — and some that are not, such as Albania, Chad and Andrew B. Bernard, professor of international economics at Dartmouth’s Tuck Mali. It also leaves off some key U.S. trading partners, such as Mexico, Hong Kong School of Business, who authored the report along with J. Bradford Jensen, deputy and Canada. director of the Institute for International In a Wednesday morning briefing in Economics, and Peter K. Schott, assistant profes- Manhattan, Bernard acknowledged China will ac- sor of economics at the Yale School of count for much of his growth projection and that Management. gains in Chinese apparel exports would likely He expects countries such as China and India Gaining Ground come at the expense of other developing nations. to see the biggest increase in share in the apparel “That is one of the most interesting issues from sector. In the study, he also predicted the world’s U.S. Market Share of 58 Low-Wage Countries in Selected Categories. a non-U.S. perspective,” he said. “There is a com- poorest nations would grow to hold 32 percent of ing wave of potentially destabilizing globalization.” the U.S.’ imported textile market from 22 percent, 1991 2001 2011 FORECAST The question of how well the rest of the world and 87 percent of the leather goods market from Apparel 30 percent 41 percent 67 percent will compete with China in 2005 is one that 61 percent, over the next seven years. weighs heavily on the mind of Marjorie Yang, Overall, though, he said the picture is not that Textiles 19 percent 22 percent 32 percent chairman of Esquel Group of Cos., a Hong Kong- bleak for the U.S. manufacturing sector. He pre- Leather Goods 28 percent 61 percent 87 percent based apparel manufacturer that currently has dicted the group of poor nations would grow to factories in China, Mauritius, Sri Lanka, Malaysia All Manufactured Products 7 percent 15 percent 24 percent represent 24 percent of all U.S. imports of manu- and Hong Kong, which together employ 47,000. factured products in that same time-frame, but In an interview late last month in New York, SOURCE: “FACING THE DRAGON: PROSPECTS FOR U.S. MANUFACTURERS IN THE COMING DECADE,” BY ANDREW would gain limited market share in industries B. BERNARD, J. BRADFORD JENSEN AND PETER K. SCHOTT Yang said the company already had closed a such as transportation equipment, chemicals and Mauritian pants factory that she believed would industrial machinery. be uncompetitive in 2005, but hoped to keep a With the dropping of quotas on textiles and apparel next year, there has been in- shirt factory on the Indian Ocean island open. tense interest within the industry about how import patterns will shift and particu- “We have been very concerned about that location,” she said, noting that it re- larly how China’s share of the U.S. apparel industry will grow. A lot is at stake — ac- mains hard to project how disruptive the end of the quota system will be. Yang said, cording to government figures, in the year ended in March, the U.S. imported $77.8 for Esquel, “it could be as bad as having to relocate 25,000 people.” billion worth of textiles and apparel. China was the U.S.’ leading supplier in those She said the potential loss of exports could hurt many developing economies be- categories, shipping $12 billion worth of goods, a 22.8 percent increase from the cause “it’s very tough for a lot of economies to go through abrupt change.” prior year, which gave it a 15.4 percent market share. But she noted that China’s competitive advantages, which include low wages, a Industry executives have speculated China could easily become the supplier of large workforce and significant supplies of textiles and other raw materials, are not the majority of the U.S.’ apparel and textiles. Liz Claiborne Inc. senior vice presi- unique. She noted India and Pakistan also will be well positioned in 2005. dent Bob Zane, for one, has estimated that Chinese imports could eventually repre- “Everybody points their fingers at China, but that is very misleading,” she said. sent 50 to 85 percent of the U.S.’ apparel supply. Those estimates are supported by “If China gets capped, all it means is India and Pakistan are going to be taking over.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004

PARIS — Marie-Amelie Seigner On a recent rainy Coins for the Fountain eye® evening, in a tiny PARIS — A shortage of American tourists has left candlelit shopkeepers and hoteliers up and down the Rue Saint- cellar, Marie-Amelie Honoré a bit bereft. But one group of visitors who Seigner ended a share a love of luxury and all things French might monthlong gig, singing make up for the deficit. The American Friends of for a hushed, standing- Versailles, with Chicago philanthropist Catharine room-only audience of Hamilton leading the charge, will descend on Paris in 35. That night, the mid-June for a week’s worth of festivities surrounding audience called her the opening of the Trois Fontaines Bosquet at back three times for Versailles. The fountain is a glory designed by Louis encores. “That’s all I XIV’s legendary gardener, André Le Nôtre, in 1677 that have,” confessed Marie- has been languishing in a state of disrepair since 1830. Amelie (her stage name), Restored to its original state via painstaking flanked by a single Baroque techniques, the fountain, which Hamilton guitarist. She bowed a describes as “the size of two football fields,” will be last time and, in the toasted by the Friends with a series of soirees thrown French equivalent, said, by Paris’ counts and countesses, princesses, dukes “That’s all, folks.” and viscomtes, including a cocktail reception hosted Though she’s yet to by Madame Bernadette Chirac. The festivities will release an album, culminate in Le Grand Bal du Bosquet, which will be Seigner is hot. held in the Versailles Orangerie. Songwriters Art Mengo Getting the fountain flowing again — seven years and Benjamin Biolay, the and $4 million later — was only part of the Friends’ husband of actress mission, though. As Hamilton explains it, enhancing Chiara Mastroianni, have Franco-American ties was equally grave. “Restoring provided her with the Bosquet has been more difficult than we material. The actresses anticipated, first because of Kosovo, but then Mathilde and Afghanistan, the Iraqi war, the decline of the dollar Emmanuelle Seigner, a and a dip in the Franco-American relationship,” she former muse of Tom says. “But we want to focus on our likenesses, not Ford’s at Yves Saint our differences.” Laurent, are her sisters. Her brother-in-law, director Roman Polanski (Emmanuelle’s husband), has already filmed two of her concerts. But for all the Lark de Triomphe attention, including a recent spate of spreads in French fashion PHOTO BY THIERRY CHOMEL magazines, the 30-year-old singer remains nonplussed. “I’ve always had my head in the clouds,” says Seigner, who spent her early 20s traveling, partying and working a string of small jobs. “I was an adolescent until I turned 25,” she says. But two years ago, something clicked. She started writing songs, first alone and then with Mengo and Biolay. She cites Barbara and Juliette Gréco as her spiritual godmothers and she loves Serge Gainsbourg. Though she falls into their tradition of “chanson” — the Gallic art of mixing poetry, orchestration and folk — Seigner’s style is her own. Her voice is gravelly and fey, and her songs about lost innocence and impossible love are nostalgic and romantic. She plans to record her first album this summer. “Singing makes me feel alive,” Seigner explains. “If I could have it my way, I’d only perform live. It makes me feel like I’m flying.” — Robert Murphy Fish Tales LONDON — Thierry Despont spends his days designing interiors for museums and moguls (including Bill Gates, Millard Drexler and Calvin Klein), but when he wants a break, he grabs his waders — and paintbrushes — and heads to New Jersey to spend time with the fish. The Trois Fontaines Bosquet at Versailles. “I taught myself fly fishing and I’m very bad at it,” explains the French-born, New York-based architect, Still, one difference neither group could ignore interior designer and painter, just before the opening was their disparate fund-raising techniques. The of his first London show at Marlborough Fine Art. “It’s Americans raised the cash the old-fashioned way — about the joy of being in the middle of a river in the demanding it from their friends. The French, though morning and casting a line under a canopy of trees.” unaccustomed to the method, soon picked up on it, Until June 19, the gallery will showcase what sweet-talking florists and party planners into amounts to a diary of the mornings Despont spent lowering their rates and cajoling friends into hosting fishing in the Raritan River near his cottage in Far dinners at some of France’s most renowned chateaux. Hills, N.J. The graceful watercolors are of sunfish, “Doing benefit dinners is not in the French culture,” trout, eel and bass, which look as if they’re floating says Sandy de Yturbe, who is hosting a party at her through the air. country home, Chateau d’Anet. “The Americans are Despont does a quick pencil sketch of every fish he more generous, but for them, it’s tax deductible. This pulls in before throwing it back in the river. Later, he is new in France.” (Such donations generally have not paints watercolors of the best catches. “The fish I been deductible in France, but new legislation to catch are miniscule,” he says with a giggle. “So what make them so is in the works.) you see here is an example of artistic license.” Anne-Marie de Gany, the French committee co- The watercolors, which sold out on the first day, chairman, learned that a good dose of guilt means complement Despont’s textured nebulae paintings of plenty of leverage. “The French couldn’t resist giving planets, which are also on display. They’re made from because these Americans have,” she explains. “They ink, acrylic paint, glue, asphalt and acid and covered had to match the American enthusiasm for the with craters, gorges and lava. Of course, he takes Fish watercolors by Thierry Despont. monument. I don’t know if we’d have the same artistic license with those, too. reaction to a beautiful American monument, so it’s “I realized that the pictures of the planets we see “If I get stuck on something in my architecture very touching.” on TV are color composites done by artists. Mine are business, I go downstairs to the studio and start to Of course, pleased as they may be with the just as real as theirs,” he says. paint, and vice-versa. results of their efforts, both the French and the Every Monday afternoon at his TriBeCa offices, “As an architect, I need to be a control freak,” he Americans maintain a general distaste for fund- Despont and his staff practice model drawing with a adds. “When I’m painting I can be more physical and raising. “Asking for other things was a lot less teacher. “For an architect, it’s like a gym and it’s very expressive. For me, it’s all part of the same thing. Just embarrassing than asking for cash,” de Gany nice to have someone looking over your shoulder,” he call me an ‘archartiste.’” concludes. “But it’s still embarrassing.” says. His art and his architecture feed off one another. — Samantha Conti — Jessica Kerwin TIMEFIRST EVER!

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PARIS — Aloha! John Galliano is lei-ing on the Polynesian spirit at Dior — with a touch of Janis Joplin and Helmut Newton, too. In a diverse Dior and joyful cruise collection, Galliano lets loose with color and prints in looks that have just the right dose of embellishment. The South Pacific spirit surfaces in fluttering, tropical- bright evening dresses topped off by feathered capes and flower necklaces. But as jackets take on more fashion prominence, Galliano is exploring more serious territory for Dior, too, with lots of sexy black power suits, played off against filmy tops and even silk kimonos. Meanwhile, in the first cruise collection for his signature line, the designer is showing some stunning versions of his celebrated bias-cut dresses, printed with flowers and fashion illustrations. He also does renditions of his slinky siren gowns that resemble elongated cowboy shirts. But Galliano is out to show his commercial muscle, too, and the line features well-priced looks ranging from knitwear and classic jeans to great jackets for late day and evening.

Dior WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 7

Dior John Galliano

John Galliano PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 Through the Ages With Mary McFadden York social scene and in much better spirits By Eric Wilson A dress from A look from the than when she closed her firm — although she NEW YORK — Mary McFadden’s home is an McFadden’s 2001 “Fire” has yet to explain the exact circumstances ordinary place, at least for her. 1989 collection. behind that decision. She remained cordial The historically inspired designer has “American during two recent interviews in her converted an Upper East Side one-bedroom Indian” apartment, first in a customary black and gold apartment into an ornate tribute to a collection. floor-length robe, her hair done up in Byzantine palace, its walls and ceiling elaborate black braids pulled back from stenciled in gold, so stuffed with relics of the shockingly white skin, the second time in a great civilizations of the world that an art black velvet Puma warmup set over white history course could be taught there. sneakers, her hair in bobby pins, having just At the entrance to her living room is a returned from the squash court. Gandara bust, 1,800 years old, its classical “I’m never going to bring back the Greek lines demonstrating the influence couture again,” said McFadden, referring to brought by Alexander of Macedonia into her rtw line. “It’s too time-consuming and ancient Afghanistan and Pakistan. A 12th- service- oriented, and I basically wanted to century Buddhist mandala painting from fly and not have to deal with the problems of Japan and other examples from Korea a factory any longer.” adorn one wall, flanked by a funeral At 65, McFadden continues to delve into sculpture that’s nearly 2,000 years old. fashion with a licensed collection for her An entire table, dedicated to McFadden’s moderate range, the Mary McFadden Col- “gold collection,” is covered with a pre- lection, as well as looking for deals to get her Columbian crown, a classical Greek poet’s face back onto a home-shopping channel wreath, a Scythian gold tomb belt engraved since she left QVC. While touring her with animals from 2000 B.C. and a leaf torn apartment, however, she revealed she has from a Chinese money tree. There’s also a another intention — to launch a mass- bronze Buddha from Tibet, a calendar icon market business called Civilizations based from the Ukraine, an ivory door taken from on all the pieces she has collected over the an 18th-century palace in Rajasthan, India years, from plates and cutlery to jewels and —McFadden can rattle off wall coverings. provenances of nearly everything “I want to sell the total package — the without batting an eye. Japanese Amari plates, the Thirties’ Italian There has always been glasses, the pieces from Japan, Russia and something about the eccentric Germany that you really can’t find anywhere McFadden that made her seem else,” McFadden said. “My thing is to take the more like an archaeologist than a very best of the ancient world and the very INDIAN AND FIRE PHOTOS BY ANGELO CAGGIANO fashion designer — part Cleo- best of the modern world, and make them

patra, part Indiana Jones. While ▲ Mary McFadden in affordable. Everything here I can knock off.” many designers take inspiration her Upper East Side McFadden is working with Earthbound from time to time in foreign lands, apartment. LLC, the company that pitched Isaac mining ethnicities whenever they Mizrahi’s line for Target, to land a similar become trendy — from African deal, and she’s hoping for a similar rollout

tribes to the Egyptian pharaohs — PORTRAIT BY KYLE ERICKSEN at a store like Target, Wal-Mart or Kmart. McFadden is truly versed in the “It’s never going to be like the original, history of ancient lands, a constant traveler but Leonardo Da Vinci is never going to whose fashion career can be traced by the happen again,” McFadden said. “No one stamps on her passport. has the concentration any more to produce “I’ve done 60 collections, each based on such quality. They just push a mouse all day an ancient civilization, and I went to all and that’s it.” those places,” McFadden said. “Over the Well, not McFadden. She’s still out living years, you accumulate a lot of pieces.” her life by her own rules, playing tennis or How anyone could come to possess such racquetball almost every morning, a remarkable array of artifacts is something sometimes with partners such as David of a mystery upon which McFadden sheds Dinkins, the former mayor of New York. She little light. She once admitted to being in drinks white wine or champagne as early as Hong Kong in 1997 at the time of its she likes, eats very little — a self-imposed handover to China, when she acquired a 600 calories per day for as long as anyone trove of pieces from the Ming Dynasty, now can remember — and weighs 105 pounds. the basis of her Buddhist collection, from Reflecting on her career, McFadden anxious dealers at a price, then smuggled described the depth of research that went them back into the U.S. in her luggage. into each collection, such as one that was Some pieces come from her many based on the Ming Dynasty that incorporated husbands — the JAR jewelry is from her religion and sociological interests, as well as first marriage to Philip Harari, an executive the obvious motifs found on porcelain with De Beers who brought her to South statuettes. The resulting collection featured Africa in the Sixties, where she ran an arts some of the most intricate handwork and foundation and edited South Africa Vogue. production requirements of McFadden’s Much of the African art came from husband career. number two, Frank McEwan, then the “She is right up there with some of the director of the National Gallery in finest of the 20th-century fashion Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), where McFad- designers,” Saliklis said. “She is often den started a Vukutu sculpture workshop lumped together with Carolina Herrera or for African artists. There were at least nine From McFadden’s 1992 Geoffrey Beene, but the difference with other husbands. “Symbolists” collection. Mary is that she didn’t rise through the Her approach to art collecting could be fashion ranks or go through the schooling a considered unorthodox but, then, so is Fashion Designers of America as its Gardens in Memphis is planning to show the lot of fashion designers go through. Her McFadden, who has rarely failed to president from 1982 to 1983. exhibit from Sept. 25, 2005 to Jan. 8, 2006. background was really in art, then she captivate the press with her dalliances with But now she’s ready for her comeback. Along with the shows, Bunker Hill shifted over into fashion design, which younger men, her ethereal appearance and On June 20, the Allentown Art Museum in Publishing has produced a book on the means she approached it a little bit the occasional outlandish remarks about Allentown, Pa., will host the first Mary designer’s career called “Mary McFadden: differently. You can compare her, but she her sexual encounters. McFadden retrospective, having worked High Priestess of High Fashion,” written by somewhat stands apart in the way she When McFadden closed her high-end with the designer for the past year sifting Ruta Saliklis, curator of textiles at the approached things.” ready-to-wear business in August 2002, it through her archives and historic textile Allentown museum. While she has no regrets for the way she was also cloaked with intrigue, as she collection. The museum will incorporate “There are so many parallels between closed her business, noting her employees vacated her offices at 240 West 35th Street some pieces from its well-regarded Kate the things that Mary has been influenced by were all given severance pay, McFadden here, still known as the Mary McFadden Fowler Merle-Smith textile collection and over the years and the things we have in our said she’s ready to move on. She seemed Building, without comment, then disap- there are also plans to take the exhibit on collection, especially our pieces from quite satisfied that several pieces of art from peared for several weeks. It was an odd way tour after it closes there on Oct. 3. A second Mariano Fortuny,” said Saliklis, referring to her home collection will travel along with to end a 30-year career that holds a sig- venue was just added in McFadden’s the designer whose pleated textiles were a the fashion exhibit. Yet, in spite of all the nificant spot in American fashion history, hometown of Memphis, where she lived on a hallmark of McFadden’s work. “She was a treasures and gold that fill her apartment, considering that McFadden’s innovative cotton plantation until she was eight, then natural fit and a perfect match for the the only thing that seems to be missing from draping and pleating techniques, her moving to New York with her mother, Mary museum, so we were able to put together in McFadden’s life these days is a man. opulent focus on ethnicities and turning Josephine Blair, who married the J.P. Morgan a relatively short amount of time an exhibit “I was tempted about three months ago, polyester into a luxury fabric have banker Watson Blair. McFadden’s father, of her work.” but I decided against temptation,” she said. influenced a range of designers over the George, was killed in an avalanche while After a short hiatus, McFadden has been “He lives in another country. You wouldn’t decades. She also directed the Council of skiing in Aspen in 1946. The Dixon Gallery & making frequent appearances on the New know him.” WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 9 Denim Dish Squeeze Revamps unior denim brand Squeeze has updated its Jimage and is planning a consumer advertising campaign to show off its new look. Over the past year, since the departure of designer Stephen Hardy, his successor, Angela ’21 Line Roars Abroad DaFonseca, has been reworking the line, giving he 1921 jeans line, a spin-off of Winnipeg, the jeans a cleaner, sophisticated feel, she said in TManitoba-based Silver Jeans, has set its sights on a recent interview at the company’s Manhattan international expansion. showroom. Michael Silver, president of Silver Jeans, said the firm “Teenagers today are definitely more sophisti- has signed deals with three distributors to sell the brand cated than we give them credit for,” she said. overseas: Fashion Forward Ltd. will sell 1921 in England Rory Nichols, national sales manager, said the and Ireland; Strong Fashion Group now represents it in ads will break in the August issues of Teen Vogue, Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg, and Scott Elle Girl and YM. Over 12 months, the company Side is taking on distribution in Japan. All three deals plans to run a series of ads showing a girl going cover women’s and men’s products. from a nightclub to an after party, and on to home. Silver launched 1921 last year. The line is higher- The initial budget for the campaign is $500,000, priced than the main Silver Line, with 1921 styles company officials said. retailing between $120 and $200, compared with $52 to The goal, Nichols said, is “trying to get the cus- $70 for the main line. The vintage-inspired 1921 line — a tomer back in touch with Squeeze.” date that refers to parent company Western Glove Works’ Value is a big part of the brand’s pitch. The founding — features styles that are hand-cut, treated and line offers moderately priced jeans, with fashion washed to give the denim an authentic vintage look. items wholesaling from $13.50 to $15.50, and a “It’s only natural that we want to share 1921 with new line of basic jeans intended to be merchan- some of the markets that inspire us,” Silver said. dised in folding displays wholesaling for around “Japan and many of the European markets have a $10, with a suggested retail price of $19.99 at great understanding of fine denim and washes and department stores. really appreciate the beauty of real vintage jeans.” Despite the low-price pitch, Nichols said the Fashion Forward also distributes European labels company maintains certain standards in quality. like Paola Frani, Manola Albertini and Pinko. For instance, he said, Squeeze opted not to jump A new Squeeze ad campaign will break in August magazines. Formed in 2002, Strong Fashion Group is a on board a recent junior market trend of offering distributor of fashion goods in the Benelux jeans made from ramie denim, rather than the tra- countries. In addition to 1921, the company ditional cotton denim. Ramie had caught on because, show them to buyers in August for spring 2005 retailing. represents Silver Jeans, American Apparel, Teenage with quota rights for ramie fabric less in demand than The value positioning reflects a fact of the American Millionaire and several European brands. Focusing cotton fabric, goods could be imported at lower prices. jeans market — most of the volume is in low-priced on key international trade shows such as Bread & “We don’t feel that ramie gives the denim the same goods. According to STS Market Research of Cam- Butter and Goldfinger, Strong plans to expand wash and feel that the 98-2 cotton gives to it,” Nichols bridge, Mass., last year, 52.4 percent of the women’s territories to include Germany, Austria and said, referring to denim made from 98 percent cotton jeans sold in the U.S. were tagged below $20. That rep- Scandinavia by early 2005. and 2 percent spandex yarn. resented a $2.93 billion business. Scott Side is an independent distributor of apparel The company also continues to offer jeans that “The girl we’re selling [to] doesn’t have the kind of in Japan, carrying other brands such as U.K.-based Ben come with fashionable belts. Pointing to a style fea- money to go out and pay $100 to $180 for a pair of Sherman and the French firm Moncler. In addition, it turing a thick leather belt with a heavily beaded jeans,” Nichols said. distributes several private labels in the men’s category. buckle, Nichols said, “The belts are more expensive From her end, DaFonseca said she aims to develop Silver said he is projecting a $1.5 million increase than the jeans.” products that please both fashion-hungry teens and in volume once overseas business picks up steam. The company, which does about $150 million in more pragmatic parents. This represents a 60 percent increase over 1921’s annual sales, including junior and girls’ Squeeze prod- “Her mom can be happy because the price is right current volume. uct and private label garments, is also getting ready to and she’s happy with the product,” she said. — Julee Greenberg launch Squeeze tops, Nichols said. Squeeze plans to — Scott Malone

in merchandise, said Courtney Graham, the store’s manager, who shares buying duties with Abbott. “We try to merchandise Armhole with unique styles to make us a destination, so we spend lots of time researching the trends and in the markets in New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles and Dallas,” Graham said. “The mix is about 60 percent women’s and is really focused to appeal to our target of women in their mid-20s and 30s.” Retail prices are $60 to $80 for tops, $90 to $120 for skirts, $190 for dresses and a maximum of $159 for denim jeans. She said a Armhole’s Courtney Graham, Jason Serrantello typical purchase is a pair of Dallas Destination jeans and two tops. and Ryan Abbott. rmhole, a fledgling Dallas denim “Our customer base is Aboutique, is becoming a destination also expanding to include for edgy jeans and fashion items such teens and women over 60,” as tops, jewelry and shoes. said Graham. “Let’s face The jewel-box-size, 650-square-foot it, hip is hip and not so space in the Lakewood Shopping much related to age Center in east Dallas opened in August. anymore. Overall, [Arm- Top labels include Ella Moss, Splendid, hole’s] customers are not Sweet Pea, Rock & Republic and Earl mall shoppers.” Jean, along with White Label, the Expansion plans call for store’s in-house brand that evolves selling on the Internet and according to seasonal fashion trends. for increasing the store’s The store also does a sizable business physical size, according to with customized silk-screen T-shirts Serrantello, though timing and iron-on graphics. is still tentative. “We’re one of the only fashion retail “Because of the strong venues in this part of town, and women response we’ve gotten since and men are really embracing our opening, we’re looking concept of funky and forward styles ahead at how to expand,” that aren’t outrageously priced,” said The average shopper at Armhole in Dallas leaves he said. “We have a large Jason Serrantello, who owns the store with $250 in merchandise. back room that could be with his fiancée, Ryan Abbott. shifted to selling space. It’s Serrantello said that in its first year, the store is on something we’re really thinking about as the Lakewood track to sell about $150,000 in merchandise, though he area just keeps getting stronger. There are an incredible said he expects sales to pick up as more locals are number of restaurants here and a constant flow of traffic.” attracted to a nearby lake, a popular Dallas location for As for why the store is named Armhole, Serrantello jogging, boating and other outdoor pursuits said, “Our roots are in T-shirt printing and silk- “Business has exceeded plan,” he said. “Lakewood is screening, and I wanted a name that was unusual and a charming, laid-back and eclectic neighborhood that has offbeat. So I looked at a T-shirt and went with ‘Armhole.’ a unique artsy character. There are also lots of new Besides, it’s the first letter of the alphabet, usually a Armhole is in east Dallas. families moving here to be closer to White Rock Lake.” great place to start.” PHOTOS BY GEORGE HENSON PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY GEORGE HENSON PHOTOS BY The average shopper at Armhole leaves with about $250 — Rusty Williamson 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004

The Beat Siegel-Magness Goes So Low Ying-Li’s Wearable Art By Holly Haber

By Jennifer Laing DALLAS — When Ying Li-Oshrin calls retailers and asks if she can LOS ANGELES — Not everyone can take a niche concept like low-rise under- show them her hand-painted wear and turn it into a full-blown contemporary wear brand in just 30 months. silks, the response is often, But then not everyone has the entrepreneurial spirit of So Low founder Sarah “We’re not interested in that.” Siegel-Magness. The folksy image of “wearable The daughter of Celestial Seasonings tea founders Mo and Peggy Siegel, art” is hard to shake — but only Siegel-Magness was just 15 when she independently opened a kiosk at a mall until buyers get a glimpse of her in her hometown of Boulder, Colo., and sold $30,000 worth of tea in two weeks. sophisticated silks. So it was no surprise when she decided to study business at the University of “I tell them, ‘Please, give me Colorado. And when she couldn’t find a pair of panties that would fit comfort- the benefit of the doubt, because ably beneath — yet stay securely below the waistband of — her favorite they are so beautiful,’” the de- Frankie B. jeans, Siegel-Magness did what any other industrious 27-year-old signer said. would: She enlisted the help of the atelier that was creating her wedding Painted by her mother and dress to come up with a prototype for the perfect pair of low-rider undies. other artists in China, Ying Li’s Sarah Siegel-Magness The resulting “Fanny Panty” was made from soft and slightly stretchy cot- soft silk charmeuse dresses, tops ton Lycra spandex jersey knit. It had a short-rise and a full back, but was still and quilted coats boast striking skimpy enough to wear under a pair of hip-hugger jeans. color combinations and patterns. When showrooms and sales representatives informed Siegel-Magness she couldn’t have a collection that Because the silk is passed included a single style, she quickly came up with three other pieces: a tank top, boxer shorts and G-strings, through a steam tunnel and all made from the same jersey knit. After selling $75,000 worth of merchandise in just three months, she re- washed, it has the look and feel signed from her job in artist development at EMI Records in New York to start So Low in Los Angeles. of a screen print rather than a “I was lucky,” said Siegel-Magness. “I found a niche that no one was filling. The retail boutiques that painted fabric. picked up the line immediately got the idea.” “My mom is a good graphic With no formal training in design, Siegel-Magness hired her best artist,” says Li-Oshrin, who grew friend from junior high, Kinoka Ogsbury, then a fashion student, up in one of China’s oldest cities, to help create the burgeoning collection. Hangzhou, which is famous for Two-and-a-half years later, with the help of So Low presi- So Low’s fall silk. “She has been teaching tex- TIM BOOLE PHOTO BY dent and apparel-industry veteran Laura Chambers, the com- collection tile arts for 45 years at Central Ying Li’s black-and-white wool pany has evolved from innerwear and loungewear to a full- includes Academy of Fine Arts, which is coat over a hand-painted black, blown women’s contemporary brand selling everything from the number two prestigious arts everything white and orange silk dress. sporty tennis skirts and ruffled-hem tube dresses to an array college in China.” of zip-front track jackets, short and long-sleeve T-shirts, and from denim To design fabric for her collection, Li-Oshrin sends her mother story- pull-over hoodies. jackets to boards with a color palette, and her mom, Xiao Li Cai, paints sample Jersey knit remains the company’s staple fabric. cotton motifs. After Li-Oshrin approves them, her mother paints the pattern on “We use a really high-quality jersey. It washes well and is dresses. silk. To produce the fabric on bolts of silk 50 meters long, her mother very form fitting to the body. There’s just so much you can do paints outlines of the pattern, and other artists fill in the colors. with it,” said Siegel-Magness, who now splits her time be- The painted fabrics are the most eye-catching element of the de- tween homes in Denver and Palm Springs, the latter of which signer’s first sportswear collection, cut into blouses, shirt dresses and doubles as the set for the NBC reality series “The kicky pleated cocktail dresses. But the line, which Li-Oshrin plans to Average Joe” (as part of the deal, bachelorette pare down to 70 or 80 pieces, also includes an orange short honey- Melena was outfitted in So Low throughout the comb wool skirt and trenchcoat, fitted cashmere sweaters, tea rose show’s first season). stretch wool and alpaca miniskirts and coats, and a brown pinstripe stretch wool Fifties circle skirt paired with a camel cashmere sweater We want to grow So Low with a brown silver fox collar and a silk tie. All the coats are lined in hand-painted silk. “into a global fashion leader, The collection wholesales from $60 for a painted silk camisole to $300 for a hand-quilted and -painted silk coat in turquoise, ivory and the key is to build a and orange. “I started doing blouses, then some solids and cashmere sweaters foundation so we can incur and bouclé, and the next thing you know it was this humongous mon- ster of a line,” Li-Oshrin recalled. “But the tweed looks beautiful with long-term growth. the Chinese fabrics. I think it is unique, and I am not bored with it. Sometimes you walk around a show like [Fashion] Coterie, and the — Sarah Siegel-Magness” lines blur together from one to another. But I know people will re- member my line, whether they like it or not.” Among the brand’s best-selling jersey pieces The line is currently being sold through two sales representatives: is a pair of color-block pants with a fold-over Berger & Stevens in New York and Rita Harris in Dallas. So far the waistband adorned with the company’s logo and collection has been sold to 40 specialty stores, including Doneckers the “Foxy Flare,” a low-rise pant with an elastic in Ephrata, Pa., Miriam Riegler in Manhattan, and Harriet Hart in waistband and flared leg. Houston. Lately, Siegel-Magness has started incorporating Amanda Dietrich, a spokeswoman for Doneckers, said, “We’ve other fabrics, such as cashmere, denim, French terry, carried a lot of hand-painted silks, but none were as beautiful or as mesh, and tweed, into the company’s lineup. So Low’s rich in color as this. Those trenchcoats were phenomenal. The color fall and resort 2004 collections, for example, feature combinations were amazing.” a blue denim French terry jean jacket with a red jer- Harriet Hart, owner of an eponymous bridge store in Houston, or- sey hood, an orange cashmere hooded pullover, a dered Ying Li’s silk blouses and jackets in turquoise, black and white. jersey track jacket with mesh insets, and a loden “We thought it was very pretty, and there are not many pretty tweed miniskirt. blouse resources in the market right now,” Hart said. The line, which retails for about $50 to $150, is Ying Li may be her first women’s collection, but Li-Oshrin has 15 sold in over 440 contemporary specialty stores in years of experience in fashion. She won four Earnshaw Awards for the the U.S., Canada, Japan, South Korea and the children’s coats she designed for Young Gallery, and in 2000 she co- United Kingdom. According to Siegel-Magness, founded Milly, the contemporary sportswear line, with her husband, wholesale volume for 2003 was $4 million. She Edward Oshrin, who serves as its president, and her brother-in-law expects So Low to do $10 million in whole- and sister-in-law, Andrew Oshrin and Michelle Smith. sale volume in 2004. Li-Oshrin left Milly in fall 2001 and started her own business “They’re one of my top eight brands. I the following year with hand-painted silk lingerie sold to Neiman sold 700 pieces last month,” said Cathy Marcus in Beverly Hills and other high-end stores. But with thongs Steele, buyer for four National Jeans loca- wholesaling for $40 and kimono robes for $220, she felt its appeal tions on Long Island, which has been carrying was limited. the line almost since its inception. “The rollover “Because it is such an expensive product, even though people ap- pant in solids and two-toned color-block are among my preciate the beauty, they can’t always dig deep enough to buy an out- bestsellers, but I do really well with all their bottoms.” fit for $1,000 at Neiman Marcus,” she reflected. “I know I am on And while So Low ceased making underwear about a the right target because people love them, but they don’t all want year ago (“At $23 a pair, we couldn’t compete with stores like them to wear to sleep. That’s how I started doing ready-to-wear.” Express or Victoria’s Secret,” said Siegel-Magness), the com- Asked for volume projections, Li-Oshrin said, “With the lin- pany’s founder is content with the progression of the brand. gerie, I did about $200,000 to $250,000 a year, but with “We want to grow So Low into a global fashion leader, ready-to-wear, I have no clue. People are really excited, but and the key is to build a foundation so we can incur long- they want to see how my line fits, and they want to make sure term growth,” said Siegel-Magness. “You can sell as many we’re financially secure and we’ll be around. Those are all fair pairs of pants as you want, but if you can’t produce and questions, so it’s difficult for me to predict sales at this point.” ship them, what’s the point?” WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 11

Active LifestyleX Sport Chains Spring Ahead

By Melanie Kletter footwear and apparel, which is a far higher percentage for these categories than any of the other publicly traded NEW YORK — Sport retailers are in the midst of one of their sport retailers, McGowan said. most successful recent seasons, though many industry ana- Dick’s Sporting Goods, a regional chain based in lysts are wondering how long the hot streak can go on. Pittsburgh, also had a stellar quarter, with a 63.6 percent “The rest of the year should continue to be strong,’’ climb in earnings, a 19.5 percent boost in sales and a 4.6 said Sean McGowan, an analyst at Harris Nesbitt percent comp-store gain. The results were driven by a Gerard. “My worries start with next year’s first quarter. gross margin increase and strong sales in apparel, Everyone who invests in this sector knows it can’t last.” Edward Stack, the company’s chairman, said on a confer- Sales and earnings growth are projected to continue ence call. “During the quarter, we saw favorable results in at least for the next few months and into the fall, boost- athletic footwear, all segments of apparel — men’s, ed by purchases of Olympics-related merchandise that women’s and kids — paintball, golf and team sports.” should help lift sales in the second half of the year, said At The Sports Authority, the largest U.S. retail sports analyst Robert Ohmes of Banc of America Securities. In chain based in Englewood, Colo., apparel sales were addition, the back-to-school period is usually a strong driven by gains in both licensed and performance appar- time for sport retailers. el, Thomas Hendrickson, vice chairman and chief exec- The most recent financial quarter was particularly utive officer, said on a conference call. strong, driven by full-price selling, higher margins and a The firm’s sales surged 150.4 percent in number of salable trends. Among standout products were the first quarter, driven by the addition of the Nike Shox line of sneakers, technical apparel from Gart Sports which was acquired last year, Athletic apparel is selling well at Galyan’s. brands such as Under Armour, and team sports jerseys. while earnings slipped 2.9 percent, pri- Left: Nike Shox line has been a standout at many chains. Athletic footwear and apparel generally outpaced equip- marily due to merger costs associated ment. Inline skates, which have fallen sharply in popularity with the Gart acquisition. On a same- as more people take up activities such as yoga and Pilates, store basis, sales gained 0.3 percent. percent. Excluding discontinued operations, were a notable disappointment at a number of chains. The company is also stepping up earnings increased 20.5 percent to $47 mil- lion from $39 million. Sales for the period advanced 5.1 percent, led by positive comparable-store sales figures from its U.S. businesses. Sport Chains’ Most-Recent Results “Sales of the classic footwear category continued to be the key driver during the first quarter,” COMPANY SALES YEAR-AGO SALES % CHANGE EARNINGS/LOSS YEAR-AGO EARNINGS/LOSS % CHANGE Matthew Serra, chairman, president and chief executive Dick’s Sporting Goods 364.2 304.7 19.5 10.9 6.7 63.6 officer of Foot Locker, said during the company confer- Finish Line 305.3 234.4 30.2 21.0 15.4 36.5 ence call. White classics by Reebok and K Swiss, Nike’s Foot Locker 1,186.0 1,128.0 5.1 48.0 38.0 26.3 Air Force 1 line, Superstars by Adidas and Chuck Taylors were among the best-selling styles, he said. Galyan’s Trading Co. 157.7 129.6 21.7 (4.5) (2.6) N/A However, Bruce Hartman, executive vice president Hibbett Sporting Goods 96.5 79.6 21.3 8.1 5.3 53.4 and chief financial officer, said during the call that the Sport Chalet 69.4 58.2 19.2 0.3 0.1 516.1 rising popularity of retro shoe styles has actually ham- Sports Authority 572.0 228.4 150.4 4.1 4.2 (2.9) pered sales results over the past two years, as classic shoe styles get lower average selling prices.

SALES AND EARNINGS IN MILLIONS. RESULTS INCLUDE SPECIAL ITEMS. PARENTHESES INDICATE NET LOSSES OR PERCENT DECLINES. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. COMPILED BY DAN BURROWS. There are signs that this trend is reversing, with con- sumers returning to more functional and athletic styles. “We are very encouraged with the improving sales trend Many sport chains are also building up their private its private label products, which accounted for 7 percent that we are experiencing in our U.S. stores, a trend that we label merchandise, a strategy that is helping push mar- of sales in the quarter, and is expected to reach about 10 expect will be further enhanced in the second quarter as gins higher and create more brand identity. or 11 percent by the end of the year, Doug Morton, TSA’s we begin to receive some important Nike product into our “Companies faced easier comparisons since last spring vice chairman and chief executive officer, said on the call. stores that we have been missing for the past 18 months,” was cooler than expected, and this spring the weather has Galyan’s Trading Co., reported strength in athletic Hartman said. In a long-running dispute between Nike been stronger,” Ohmes said. “Business is being driven by apparel and athletic footwear, Edward Holman, the firm’s and Foot Locker, the retailer had pared its offerings of athletic footwear, led by Nike, as well as strong business in chief executive officer, said on its conference call. But over- Nike’s high-end footwear in 2002 and early 2003 to give non-cotton, performance-oriented apparel.” all, the 47-unit sporting goods chain based in Plainfield, Ill., additional presence to brands such as Reebok and Adidas. Hibbett Sporting Goods, the Birmingham, Ala.- based did not fare as well as some of its competitors in the quar- Among other retailers, Sports Chalet earnings and regional sports chain with 433 stores, was an especially ter. While sales surged 21.7 percent to $157.6 million, same- sales gains were in the high-single digits, and comps strong performer. The company reported earnings store sales slipped 1.4 percent because of weakness in out- gained 3.7 percent. The Los Angeles-based chain plans increased 53.4 percent on a 21.3 percent jump in sales, door equipment, outdoor apparel and accessories, the to expand and open five stores in coming months. while same-store sales edged up 8.8 percent. company said. Galyan’s reported a loss of $4.5 million, cit- And Finish Line, the 357-unit footwear and apparel “Strong sales results, combined with improved product ing higher operating expenses. chain based in Indianapolis saw its soft goods sales margins and a lower level of markdowns, led to the highest Galyan’s last month hired a new president and chief climb 35 percent, driven by strong sales in both women’s quarterly operating margin in our history at 13.2 percent,” merchandising officer. Richard Leto, who was an execu- and men’s apparel. Overall sales gained 30.2 percent, said Mickey Newsome, Hibbett’s chairman, president and tive vice president at Kohl’s, will join the firm later this while income rose 36.5 percent. chief executive officer. The chain’s stock has also been ris- month and will oversee marketing, merchandising, plan- “Going forward, we anticipate continued improvement ing in the past year, hitting a new 52-week high of $27.85 in ning and allocation. in branded apparel sales, especially with the Olympics intraday trading on the Nasdaq Wednesday before closing At Foot Locker Inc., first-quarter earnings gains were scheduled this summer,” said Alan Cohen, chairman and at $27.17. Hibbett said it plans to open 65 stores in 2005, driven by strong performance in its domestic business and chief executive officer. “Overall, we feel branded and pri- and raised its guidance for both the second quarter and the strength of classic shoe styles. The New York-based vate label apparel will account for a greater percentage of the 2005 fiscal year based on its recent performance. operator of the Foot Locker, Champs, Foot Action and our soft goods business in the coming year.” Hibbett generates about 80 percent of its sales from Eastbay nameplates said that earnings sprinted ahead 26.3 — With contributions from Ross Tucker

infuse our brand with the talents of other Puma’s higher- designs and not be locked into certain end brands are industry categories.” now available in Futurenet, which is headquartered in Puma’s Luxury Home one showroom. Milan and has a long-term contract with Puma to sell the sport luxury lines around NEW YORK — Puma’s luxury sport divi- designer Neil Barrett, and Mihara, a the world, is a separate entity from Puma. sion has a new home to call its own. joint design project with Tokyo designer ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY Nuala apparel wholesales between $30 Futurenet, the international sales Mihara Yasuhiro. and $185, while footwear ranges from $60 to agency for Puma’s higher-end brands, The company doesn’t break out sales $70, although a few special styles go up to has opened a showroom in the Meat- of the luxury sport division, which pri- $185. The 96 Hours collection, which is pri- packing District here on West 14th marily houses Puma’s collaboration marily footwear, sells for $65 to $150, as Street, marking the first time Puma’s lines and targets higher-end stores with does the Rudolf Dassler Schuhfabrik col- high-end labels have been sold together more expensive products than its lection, while Mihara footwear wholesales in one dedicated space, a company lifestyle and sport divisions. for about $75 to $100. spokeswoman said. “The new showroom gives Puma the Puma also has a new footwear collabo- The showoom sells Dassler apparel opportunity to expand our luxury sport ration with edgy designer Philippe Starck and footwear; the Christy Turlington category in a more focused manner,” said that will be available in the showroom in Burns-backed Nuala line; 96 Hours, Jay Piccola, president of Puma North coming months. which is Puma’s collaboration with America. “And this division allows us to — M.K. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004

It seems the rich aren’t that different after all. According to a survey by the American Affluence Research Center of the wealthiest 10 percent of the population, TheWWDList the super rich like a good bargain just as much as the rest of us and maybe even more. (That may be how they got rich in the first place.) On the complete list of 36 retailers, Lowe’s, Dillard’s, Ann Taylor and Bloomingdale’s closely follow Saks Fifth Avenue. Polo Ralph Lauren, the only designer on the list, ranks 25th with 13 percent of women reporting they shopped in the stores. Coach ranks 26th with 12 Lifestyles of the Super Wealthy percent, and Tiffany, with 8 percent, fills the 27th slot. “Every study we’ve have done in the last five years indicates that the super wealthy are not that much different Stores where respondents with an average annual income of $359,000 shopped this spring. than the bottom 90 percent of the population,” said the center’s Howard Waddell.

TARGET Women: 61 percent Men: 46 percent 1 Target is rolling out a new prototype to make affluent shoppers feel more at home. Merchandising is by lifestyle and prototypes have high ceilings and narrow aisles. But ,while well-heeled women may like Michael Graves’ kitchen products, they’re not buying their Louis Vuitton handbags here. THE HOME DEPOT Women: 60 percent Men: 69 percent 2 Home Depot attracts everyone from professional contractors to DIYers. To appeal to affluent tastes, Home Depot launched Home Expo, a freestanding concept with top-of-the-line appliances and fixtures. The company is now testing stores that bring elements of Expo to Home Depot. COSTCO Women: 54 percent Men: 49 percent 3 Costco sells barrels of biscotti, cases of marinara sauce made with San Marzano tomatoes and New Zealand rack of lamb. Then there’s the plasma TV, whose price is too good to pass up, or the 1997 bottle of Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes for $239.99 that makes you feel your visit was worth the trip. NORDSTROM Women: 43 percent Men: 36 percent 4 Nordstrom Inc.’s first-quarter results are a sign that consumers crave luxury. Profits ballooned 153.1 percent on double-digit same-store and net sales gains. The chain has always been known for its customer service, a philosophy that dates back to the company’s founding father, Johan (later John) W. Nordstrom. GAP Women: 40 percent Men: 30 percent 5 Under Paul Pressler, the Gap has made a comeback and regained some of its luster after two and a half years of negative same-store sales. The company has ventured further into the fashion realm with the help of a well-regarded design team. In August, an ad campaign will feature Sarah Jessica Parker. BED, BATH & BEYOND Women: 38 percent Men: 36 percent 6 Forget Frette and Porthault. When the rich want bed linens they seem to be more concerned about price than thread count. The big-box retailer features sheet sets by Wamsatta, Liz Claiborne and Nicole Miller. BEST BUY Women: 32 percent Men: 42 percent 7 Best Buy’s “customer centricity” program trains associates on how to connect with customers and provide better service. They’re empowered to offer tailored products and solutions. The company has personal shopping assistants and created a Geek Squad 24-hour computer-support task force. WAL-MART Women: 30 percent Men: 31 percent 8 The stigma of shopping at Wal-Mart has all but disappeared. In fact, shopping at the world’s biggest company has become something of a badge of honor. The company stocks gourmet foods at its Supercenters, produces its own wine label and is trying to open stores in affluent neighborhoods. CRATE & BARREL * Women: 29 percent Men: 22 percent 9 It’s not Sotheby’s French and Continental furniture sale, but Crate & Barrel offers good quality and tasteful design. The company locates in communities and shopping centers with desirable zip codes such as Scottsdale, Ariz., Beverly Hills and the Mall at Short Hills in Short Hills, N.J. WILLIAMS-SONOMA * Women: 29 percent Men: 20 percent 10 Williams-Sonoma’s sales, which rose 17 percent for the fiscal year ending Feb. 1, are evidence that there’s a strong market for copper cookware and panini grills. The store offers serious cooks, and those who want their kitchens outfitted just for show, all the tools of the trade. SAM’S CLUB Women: 24 percent Men: 21 percent 11 Costco has been more successful than Sam’s in appealing to affluent customers with products like fine wines and the Vinotemp 500-bottle wine cellars to hold them. Sam’s has made overtures to upscale shoppers but is careful not to alienate its core low- to middle-income base. BANANA REPUBLIC * Women: 23 percent Men: 18 percent 12 Banana Republic stood for well-designed business and weekend clothing with not a lot of oomph. Now the company has moved into fashionable territory inspired by runways and popular culture. The fall collection has quirky hints of Prada and the Twenties with complementary accessories and jewelry. POTTERY BARN * Women: 23 percent Men: 17 percent 13 As part of the Williams-Sonoma empire, Pottery Barn knows how to execute and market a lifestyle. The catalogue scouts for interesting homes with high ceilings, French doors and massive fireplaces. Outdoor furniture is seen poolside, on a deck overlooking the ocean and an under a loggia. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Women: 22 percent Men: 19 percent 14 Revenue gains this spring have been highest at luxury retailers. Saks Inc. said profits rose 52.6 percent for the first quarter. Fred Wilson, president and chief executive officer, has been returning the store to its carriage trade roots, which includes less price promotion and more sharply edited assortments. SOURCE: WEALTH IN AMERICA SEMIANNUAL SURVEY OF AFFLUENT AMERICANS, SPRING 2004, THE AMERICAN AFFLUENCE RESEARCH CENTER, PINECREST, FLA. *SIGNIFIES A TIE. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 13 Ebel Acquisition Cuts Movado Net Full-Price Selling As Sales Gain 23.3% in 1st Quarter Drives NMG Net By Ross Tucker lead the sales charge, posting a ments showed that the watch- Continued from page one 63.2 percent gain for the quarter. maker was losing an average of this late in the season,” Tansky NEW YORK — The beginnings of Its Concord and Coach segments $15 million a year. said. “Sales for fall goods [now a campaign to restructure and experienced double-digit gains, As Richard Cote, chief operat- hitting the sales floor] continue at revitalize recently acquired while Movado and ESQ reported ing officer and executive vice breakneck speed. The trunk Ebel tempered double-digit single-digit increases. president, pointed out, in pur- shows at Bergdorf Goodman have sales gains and weighed down Comparable-store sales at the chasing Ebel from LVMH Moët been remarkable in the amount earnings for Movado Group Inc. company’s boutique concept in- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the of volume that they’ve generated. during the first quarter. creased 18.2 percent, a feat company acquired $45.6 million [Both] are very important signs For the three months ended Grinberg attributes to a strong in net assets for a total payment for the upcoming season.” April 30, the Paramus, N.J.-based response to the company’s jewel- of $39.8 million. Income for the quarter rose to watch giant saw earnings unwind ry offerings, particularly the Restructuring has already $68.8 million, or $1.40 a diluted 14 percent to $736,000, or 6 cents a Movado diamond introduced last begun. “When we acquired Ebel share, from $41.1 million, or 87 diluted share compared with fall. “During the first quarter, it had an infrastructure in place cents, in the same year-ago peri- earnings of $856,000, or 7 cents a jewelry represented more than to support a much larger busi- od. Total revenues rose 21.4 per- share, in the year-ago quarter. half of our mix in the Movado ness,” said Cote. In March, the cent to $877.6 million from $722.9 However, excluding the negative boutiques,” said Grinberg. company announced a 40 percent million. Revenue results include impact of Ebel, the luxury Swiss With only two months of Ebel workforce reduction at Ebel’s La a 22.2 percent gain in its special- watchmaker, earnings tripled to on the books, Movado is already Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland, ty store operation to $722 million $2.6 million, or 20 cents per share. beginning to realize the increase base of operations. This process, from $591 million, and an 11.5 “Our goal over the course of in international business it had said Cote, will be complete by the percent jump in its direct-mar- this year is to complete the inte- anticipated. The company’s in- end of June. keting operation to $126 million gration of Ebel into Movado ternational wholesale segment Looking forward, Cote said the from $113 million. Revenues also Group and begin to revitalize and reported a 73.7 percent gain for dilutive impact of Ebel on earn- included a 57.9 percent increase increase the visibility of Ebel by the quarter. Excluding Ebel, in- ings per share for fiscal 2005 is in its “other” segment, which the setting a proper foundation for ternational sales were up only expected to be closer to 20 cents firm said incorporates the busi- return to growth in fiscal 2006,” 43.7 percent. compared with earlier guidance ness operations of Kate Spade said Efraim Grinberg, president During the company confer- of between 10 to 20 cents. and Laura Mercier brands. and chief executive officer, dur- ence call management acknowl- “We expect Ebel to reach a “During the past two chal- Kate Spade’s pink nylon handbags ing the company conference call. edged that Ebel was in need of break-even or profitable level lenging years, we continued to performed well at Neiman Marcus. Sales for the period jumped significant retooling prior to its during the second half of the maintain our high standards for 23.3 percent to $74.2 million from acquisition. Grinberg noted that year as our restructuring initia- fashion quality and service,” pared with $150 million last year. $60.2 million. Excluding Ebel, Ebel had “gone through uncer- tives begin to gain traction and Tansky said, adding that the The site most visited is Nei- sales increased 17.6 percent. tain times,” having changed as we inject newness into Ebel’s company posted an overall com- man’s. Other sites that are part of According to Eugene Karpo- ownership three times in a 10- product assortment and support parable-store sales increase of the business include Horchow vich, chief financial officer, the year span. An audit of the previ- the brand with the launch of a 21 percent, which includes a 22 and Chefs Catalog. Neiman’s said firm’s Tommy Hilfiger segment ous three years’ financial state- global advertising campaign.” percent gain for the specialty earlier this year that it was ex- store business and a 20 percent ploring options for the Chef ’s increase in direct marketing. business. In addition, the compa- Tansky noted that color, print ny is planning to add transac- and novelty were the most im- tional functionality to its Berg- Antitrust Issue Looms at M&S portant drivers in the quarter. dorf site by fall. The Bergdorf Women’s handbags, driven by site is up, but currently only pro- By Samantha Conti lukewarm results at Radice’s ing is forced to look at any merg- color, and contemporary sports- vides information such as loca- brainchild Lifestore “won’t ex- er that results in turnover of wear — with key trend items tion, store events and pictures of LONDON — Retail entrepreneur actly help” his situation. more than 70 million pounds, or such as denim, cropped pants selected products. Philip Green could face a major Sales at the home division and $128.8 million at current ex- and fine apparel — were strong Another opportunity for antitrust hurdle if his proposed Lifestore, the new concept for the change, or gives a company more selling categories in the period. growth is the Kate Spade and bid for Marks & Spencer plc — home, fell 2.9 percent to 526.6 than a 25 percent market share. The ceo also gave credit to Laura Mercier brands. Both had the details of which he’s expected million pounds, or $969 million, If Green’s bid goes through, the firm’s buyers and merchan- strong sales and profit growth, to reveal today — is successful. from 542.6 million pounds, or he will control 26.5 percent of disers, whom he said were Tansky said. He added, “Each Meanwhile, as Green’s bid $998 million, in the 2003-2004 fis- the U.K. women’s clothing mar- working closely with Neiman’s continues to develop as leading looms, the media spotlight has cal year. “The product in some ket: 13.5 percent from M&S; 10.3 vendors and designers to ensure brands, expanding in both prod- fallen on one particular M&S areas has been too contempo- percent from Arcadia, and 2.7 excitement in the merchandise uct and distribution.” manager: Vittorio Radice, the rary,” said then-M&S chief Roger percent from BHS, according to mix, as well as to help differen- Separately, the company re- retailer’s charismatic director Holmes last month during a year- the latest figures from the tiate the retailer in the market. leased May sales results, which of home and general merchan- end results presentation. London-based retail consultan- Tansky noted that the Berg- showed an 8.5 percent comps gain dise (and, previously, the man When Radice joined M&S, he cy Verdict Research. dorf customer, in particular, has driven by strong full-price selling. who turned around Selfridges). received approximately $1.9 mil- Green’s total share of the been “using her buying power [in For the nine months, income “Radice is one of the leading lion as a “golden hello,” which men’s wear market would be 19.6 a way] that we haven’t seen in a was $184.2 million, or $3.78 a retailers of his generation, he included a base salary of percent, while his piece of the long time.” share, up from $102.1 million, or has significant skills and he is in $667,250 and annual pension total clothing market pie would One particular avenue of op- $2.14, last year. In the year-ago demand, but is he right for payments of $188,400 — another be 20.3 percent. portunity for Neiman’s is the rate period, the results included a M&S?” asked Tony Shiret, retail potential deterrent for the cost- Once Green’s bid for M&S is of growth in its Internet business, $14.8 million charge in connec- analyst at Credit Suisse First cutting Rose. formally announced, it will be up which Tansky said is “growing at tion with a change in accounting Boston in London. As for the antitrust issues, to the OFT to decide whether the a very fast rate.” The ceo said on- principle. Total revenues were “Theoretically, Stuart Rose sources close to Green said they merger would result in a “sub- line sales are expected to exceed up 15.1 percent to $2.76 billion [the new chief executive at foresee no potential problem. stantial lessening of competition,” $200 million in fiscal 2004, com- from $2.4 billion. M&S] will be a hands-on manag- However, the U.K. authorities according to a spokesman for the er if he ends up running M&S, could disagree. As reported, regulatory body. That decision so the question is this: ‘Will Green owns the clothing group usually takes two to three weeks. RALPH AND CARY: Everyone knows Vittorio be superfluous?’” he Arcadia and the general mer- If the answer is yes, then the Donna Karan and Barbra Streisand are added. “Maybe now there’s too chandise retailer British Home OFT will refer the case to the Fashion Scoop bosom buddies, but did you know much talent at M&S.” Stores. He revealed his intention U.K.’s Competition Commission, Ralph Lauren and Cary Grant played the ponies together? Rhys Williams, retail analyst to bid for M&S last week. which will take at least three to Lauren was featured Tuesday night in the Turner Classic Movies’ at Seymour Pierce, said the The U.K.’s Office of Fair Trad- four months to make its decision. documentary, “Cary Grant: A Class Apart.” The actor, in fact, was a fan of Lauren’s ties, wore his clothes frequently and enjoyed regular lunches with him in New York. In the documentary, Lauren explained Grant once said to him, “Whenever you’re in California, call me.” Lauren says he took a trip to Maidenform Names Ward Chairman California, but wasn’t sure if he should call the actor. Coincidentally, Grant had called Lauren’s New York office and was told the designer was NEW YORK — Tom Ward, who has served as presi- ber 1997 when Maidenform filed for bankruptcy staying at the Hotel Bel-Air, and Grant invited him to the race track. dent and chief executive officer of Maidenform protection and chairman Elizabeth Coleman re- Lauren asked if he could go in what he was wearing — jeans and a T- Inc. since July 2001, has been appointed chairman. tired from the company founded by her parents shirt — but Grant said, “No,” he needed to wear grey flannels and a blue Ward will continue as ceo, but will be suc- in 1922. Maidenform, which is expected to gener- blazer. So Lauren hustled over to his Beverly Hills boutique and properly ceeded as president by Maurice Reznik, former ate an annual wholesale volume of $300 million attired himself. When he and Grant strolled the race track together, president of the Maidenform brand. this year, emerged from bankruptcy in July 1999. Lauren admired the actor’s wonderful walk, even though he was nearly Reznik will continue to report to Ward. It was As reported, the deal to acquire Maidenform 80 years old. unclear at press time if Reznik’s responsibilities Inc. by Los Angeles-based Ares Corporate Oppor- Grant, who died in 1986, would have turned 100 this year. The 90- as president of the Maidenform brand will be tunities Fund LP, a unit of Ares Management LLC, minute documentary by filmmaker and photographer Robert Trachtenberg absorbed into his new role. was completed in May. The estimated purchase features interviews with friends and co-stars, including Eva Marie Saint, The chairman post was vacant since Novem- price was $215 million. Peter Bogdanovich, Jill St. John and Martin Landau. It will reair on June 22. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004

FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 Systems Manager/Specialist Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews Design PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Large Outerwear Mfg seeks Software Pvt Label Company seeks a personable, /Systems Mgr responsible for company Textile Artist Rush Service Available Textile service studio seeks exp’d PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. HEAD DESIGNER to 100K creative and detail-oriented individual wide IT, reporting directly to Director Intimate Apparel/Sleepwear to manage entire product development of MIS. Requires extensive knowledge painting artists for colorings, repeats. APPAREL CLOSEOUTS (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Call 212-391-2370 We buy men’s, women’s & children’s www.resumesforfashion.com Fast-paced Jr. Branded Co. seeks Designer process from fabric selection, sample of AS400, all Microsoft Office products, apparel. Large quantities wanted. w/minimum 3 years exp. Mac/Photoshop/ making to production approvals. Must finance and warehouse interfaces, Bobby 212-997-7465 [email protected] Illustrator req’d. Must have trend & color understand Production Process. Strong experience w / design software, PC net- crystal ball. All levels of distribution. Communication and computer skills work setup and administration, min. Textile Designer Fax resume to: 212-204-8704 required. Must be a team player with 5+ yrs software/system exp. and excel- Seeking advanced CAD textile designers knowledge of fabrics and garment lent rapport with internal users. Please for free lance and full time positions. construction. fax resume and salary requirements: Must be exp. in primavision and photoshop. Please fax resume to Susan P. Attn: M.I.S. / 212.730.1134 Call 212-244-1426 Fax 212-244-1447 DIRECTOR OF RETAIL at 212-382-2421 Must have strong background on all TECHNICIAN levels of the retail business with a Assistant Spec Tech TRAFFIC minimum of 3 years in management, Production Assistant Est’d Int’l. Importer seeks Traffic Asst w/ off price background a major plus. This Great opportunity! Great company! 2yrsexp.Candidate should be detail Import private label sweater manufac- Leading Intimate Apparel Manufacturer oriented & able to work in fast-paced position will work directly with the turer seeks recent college grad who is ACCOUNTANT President of the company. We offer a seeks Assistant Spec Tech for Ladies, environment. Able to prepare documents 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New detail-oriented, motivated, computer Mens & Kids daywear/Sleepwear. for export/import & communicate w/ brok- Well established apparel co. seeks hard- competitive salary and benefits package. savvy and organized to work in a fast 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 working, multi-tasking, senior-level Responsibilities include daily communi- ers & U.S. Customs. Exc co paid benefits. All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices Please forward resume to: paced environment. Position includes accountant. Analysis skills and office Email: [email protected] or cation with overseas office & factories, Pls fax resume w/ sal reqs: 212-245-7615. Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 assisting a sales & production team. fittings, data entry, record keeping & operation ability required. Tax knldge Fax: (212) 691-7647 Must be able to multi-task and work &bilingual Chinese A+. Checkable follow up, strong technical knowledge & Warehouse - Clerical well under pressure. Fax resume: some flat sketching. Must be computer Apparel Co. based in NY needs liaison refs. Must be familiar w/computerized 212-730-8489 Attn: Don Lomax acctg. programs. Competitive salary + literate & have patternmaking knowl- to work in NJ public warehouse. benefits package. Fax resume/salary Draper/Patternmaker edge. Please fax your resume to: Knowledge of customer compliance, D. Anteby at: 212-842-4040. We are an BOL’s, Traffic, Price Ticket organiza- hist/req. to 212-354-0999 or e-mail PHOEBE, a newly re-launched division Production Coord $40-$44K. 1 year min exp. in [email protected] Equal Opportunity Employer. tion. Excellent communication skills, of Kay Unger NY, seeks a highly skilled textiles or apparel required. From inception to Very organized. Bilingual A+. Fax Draper/Patternmaker for first samples of completion. As400. Deal w/ Far East factories. resume to: 212-481-0455 Attn: Howard younger daytime suits. Must have 8+ yrs. Enter orders. Schedule & track. Woodbridge/ SaraMax Admin Assistant experience draping structured jackets Edison NJ area.Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Fast-growing Jr jeanswear co needs & soft dresses. Strong communication administrative help. Organized, hard- skills required. Fun working environment. working, college grad should fax resumes E-mail resume: [email protected] attn: Ilene: 212-719-4074 or Fax: attn. Dulci (212) 869-8097 Production Coordinator Admin Since 1967 Mjr. childrenswear co seeks exp Prod. W-I-N-S-T-O-N FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Coord. Comm w/ factories + design on Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - prod. details. Giving comments on APPAREL STAFFING Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. artwork, lab dips, and fabric. DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Showroom / Office / Retail Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) Organized, proficient in Word/ Excel. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION Send resumes to: We find you space-best deal-no fee (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Sublet 525 7th/ready [email protected] Garment Center Real Estate or fax: (212) 736-1753 GENERRA - Sales Assistant EOE M/F/V/D Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Available for NY showroom. Seeking a self-starter with good comm. skills, Showrooms & Lofts CAD ARTIST organized & analytical. Must be profi- SALES ASSISTANT BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Seeks experienced CAD Artist, skilled cient in Excel & Word. Please fax resume in Nedgraphics. Repeats, colorings, Attn: Julie/Stephen @ (212) 594-5802 Branded jeanswear company seeking Great ’New’ Office Space Avail full time sales assistant. Responsible ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 developing prints, etc. Fax resume to: 212-683-6647 attn: Kate L. for sales follow up, tracking orders and all clerical functions. Computer liter- Men’s Sales Rep Graphic Artist - Juniors ate a must. Fast paced environment. West Coast/ LA based; South Central/ territory based CAREERS IN APPAREL Top activewear company seeks innova- Strong organizational skills and detail In Production - Techn. Design + Design tive graphic artist w/ exp. designing oriented. Great opportunity. See Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com tops & ability to create original artwork. Fax resume 212-221-8132 Lacoste symbolizes quality not only in the products we manu- Or Fax Resume to: (212) 302-1161 Fax resumes: 212-354-1740, Attn: Noah facture, but also in the people we employ. We are currently 231 W. 39th St Sales Assistant looking to enhance our sales team with two well-spoken, COSTER self-motivated, in-house sales people for two territories: NY SHOWROOM TO SHARE Est’d children’s dress mfr seeks exp’d Graphic Designer/ Established handbag company seeks a Available for sublease through 2/28/2005 detail-oriented person to work in a fast Sales Assistant. Minimum of 2 years South Central and West Coast/ LA based. Must be physically or negotiate longer terms w/ landlord. paced environ. Good communication experience working with Wal-Mart and based in territory of interest. MUST HAVE: outstanding organ- 231 W. 39th St. Suite 909, beautiful, CAD Artist Target. Candidate must be organized, & computer skills. Sal commensurate Leading Childrenswear MFR seeks izational and follow-up skills, and exceptional communica- updated interior, monthly rent $3,182, w/ exp. Fax resume: 967-4915 Melinda detail oriented, and have strong follow 800 sq ft. Call 213-489-5500. talented graphic designer. Must be through. Send resumes to: tion talents; previous experience in men’sapparel and men’s able to work well with people and have [email protected] afull understanding of basic computer specialty stores necessary. Salary commensurate with experi- 7th Ave - Best Location Data Processing programs as well as Photoshop and ence. 2500+ Sq Ft space avail. Renovated Illustrator. Minimum 3 years experi- Sales Asst/Customer Service E-mail resume and salary history to showroom, including 5 offices. Analyst / Receptionist ence. Excellent salary & benefits. Best location! Eli 212-840-6665 Leading apparel mfr seeks a well Please fax resume to Lauren at: ENTRY LEVEL [email protected] organized individual with strong com- 212-967-7494. Women’s designer showroom seeks attn: Sales/HR-HD. Please, no phone calls. puter skills. Billing, order entry and organized, enthusiastic & exceptional EDI. Minimum 3 years experience in individual. Computer literate. Excel- garment industry. Call Howard at 212- lent communication skills essential. 921-0700. Fax resume to 212-944-1814. Please fax resume to: (212) 331-1389 Sales/Brand Manager/100k++ LeSportsac Account Executive Junior/Urban/City Wear Designer Accessories & Footwear This very "hot" Jr. branded urban license DESIGN ASST/COORD RETAIL MANAGER Aleading luxury fashion company LeSportsac handbags, accessories and needs an exp brand mgr. Req: must WE NEED SHOWROOM TO SHARE Better sportswear co seeks organized, Sample Coordinator seeks a talented account executive to have exp in this Jr. mkt (hanging w/ In 1407 Broadway or vicinity creative team player to assist w/ all phases luggage are an American fashion classic Missy Moderate Sportswear company, join their sales team. Candidates must around the world. Experienced general Rocawear,Ecko Red, Pepe Jeans etc.), Call Bobbie 212-997-7465 of design process. Resp inc flat sketching, seeks highly organized person to be energetic and have the following: strong sales, brand mgmt/merch. skills. specs, boards, tracking. Min 5 yrs exp manager wanted to oversee Madison Coordinate all facets of sample produc- 3-5 years experience with major depart- Avenue flagship and SoHo boutique. E-mail resume: [email protected] required. Pls fax resume w/salary history tion from initial order to delivery, for ment stores selling in high end (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 to 212-398-6693 Attn: Design Director Minimum 5 years of retail experience sales, showroom and advertising. Must accessories, effective communication required, including two years in retail have some experience in dealing with and retail math skills and strong management. Professional, energetic factories, design, showroom, and merchandising abilities. Salary $60K+ and customer service focused. w/ great benefits and clothing allow- Sales Executive warehousing. Detail oriented, strong Established ladies / junior handbag LeSportsac offers competitive salaries followup, computer literate. ance. Please email resume to: and excellent benefits. [email protected] company seeking a Sales Executive. 7TH AVE/38TH ST - Sublease 2-3 Designer/Asst. Designer Fax all resumes to: 212-730-0913 Minimum 5 years experience in the days/week. Small office w/reception Experienced asst designer/designer E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 212-563-5065 accessory market. Must have strong services included. Perfect for Consul- needed. Lingerie experience is not contacts within the industry. We offer tant, etc. $600/month. Call 201-503-1060. required. Must be creative/technical. Samplehand a competitive salary and benefits pack- Fax resume: 212-683-6647 attn: Kate L. Great Sales Opportunity age. Send resumes to: Handbag company seeks very exp’d Well est’d branded private label mfr person to create first samples. Must be [email protected] DESIGNER PATTERNMAKER looking for exp’d salespeople w/ major FREELANCE - 10 years exp. in grading, able to make complete product from acct following for missy separates, ASST DESIGNER custom, and couture. Please E-mail all scratch in all types of leathers and fab- plus and petites, imports/domestics, Major dress manufacturer is seeking a resumes to: [email protected] rics. Will interface with design dept. knits/woven. E-mail resume to: Sales Executive highly motivat212-382-1414ed team Fax resume w/ salary requirements to: [email protected] player to add to our team. Must have 718-482-7468 RAMOSPORT strong sketching abilities. Responsibili- Better Ladies Outerwear Co. seeks ties will include assisting in all aspects Imported Social Occasion Suit Mfr. experienced and highly motivated of design, SAMPLEROOM Seeking Sales Pro w/experience in same. salesperson for speciality stores, mail running sample room, presentation $ Open. Fax resume/salary requirements: order and assisting w/dept. store sales. boards, etc. Excellent opportunity. COORDNATOR 212-840-1161 Organizational skills & detail to follow Pattern - Production - Samples Fax resume to Tina 212-921-1987 Fast paced updated private label sports- up required. Strong computer skills & wear mfr. seeks energetic sampleroom prior Outerwear sales experience coordinator to join our production team Los Angeles based urban athletic Full - Fast - Quality and streetwear company seeks: preferred. Excellent growth opp’ty. DESIGNER - FREELANCE in Long Island City. candidate must be Fax resume & salary req: 212-840-6877 212-575-1001 Men’s sportswear designer wanted to highly organized to follow-thru w/ SALES REPRESENTATIVE help create line geared towards patternmakers, cutters and sample High-powered sales representative needed various markets. Tech packs, specs makers in order to maintain produc- to sell multiple lines and implement PATTERN/SAMPLES will need to be produced for overseas PLANNERS 45-100K tion schedules. Some technical strategic marketing plans. Must have excellent relationship with department SALES EXECUTIVE Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast offices. Experience with outdoorsy / (Retail, Merch, Allocation, & Distribution) knowledge/ understanding of vendor Watch accessory company seeks sales rugged lines a plus. Please call Neil technical packets is helpful. Must be a stores and high volume chains. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 www.tuttleagency.com Please fax resume to: (213) 384-5100 exec for NY showroom. 1-3 years exp. 212-967-1930 or fax 212-279-0760 Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn: Ilene TEAM player. Strong organizational & follow-up skills or email [email protected]. Or email: [email protected] Please fax resume to: (718)- 729-0617 to maintain and develop accounts. PATTERN / SAMPLES Must be an excellent communicator, Superior quality for an Affordable price. Designer/Head/Merch Missy & Plus Sizes team player. Act required, Photoshop 212-302-8095 Ladies/Contemporary/Better Mkt. Shipping Administrator Est’d. Missy Sportswear & Dress Co. seeks &Word application a plus. Please fax Great oppty. for strong Ladies Designer PRINT DESIGNER Star Children’s Dress Co. seeks a shipping Sales Pro. Solid relationships with Dept. resume to: 212-689-4036, attn: David. who can develop a new luxury branded li- Major Sleepwear Company looking for admin for their Amelia, VA distribution Stores, Specialty Chains, and Catalogs PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cense for young ladies (18- 30’s) activewear. an Experienced Artist / Print center. Operations include customer req’d. Must be a team player, have knowl- Req: experience design/merch. with a Designer to Illustrate original art/print shipping requirements and routing. Knowl- edge of the competition & marketplace, PRODUCTIONS luxury brand, prev. presentations to in Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop for edge of chargeback’s a plus. and most of all; be able to manage a SALESPERSON All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Saks, Neiman’s etc., ability to do line both boys and girls. Candidate must Fax resume: 804-561-5736 or business. Please Fax or E-mail resumes: Fast-paced domestic knit co. seeks a Call Sherry 212-719-0622. plans, trends, fabric develop. etc. be detail oriented, fashion savvy & an Email [email protected] 323-725-3304 / [email protected] self-motivated salesperson with 2-3 Hands on designer, MAC skills. excellent artist. Please fax resume and years exp. in junior market. A candi- E-mail resume [email protected] salary requirements to: 212-736-2649. date must have active contacts within PATTERNS, SAMPLES, (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 PRIVATE LABEL SALES the industry. SHIPPING CLERK Private label ladies sportswear co Please e-mail resumes to PRODUCTIONS L.I. Apparel Mfr. seeks exp’d. individual Samples and patterns full servcie shop Designer/Jr. Activewear seeks a team player who can initiate [email protected] For very "hot" Jr. license (hanging Product Develop. Assoc. to receive, pick/pack, and ship orders. and follow through on programs from to the trade. Fine fast work. Must be self starter, organized and able 212-869-2699. with Rocawear, Ecko Red etc.). Must For Mens/Boys & Girls swimwear concept to delivery. 5 yrs sales/product have strong design experience in this and wovens importer. Execution of to handle fast pace. Knowledge of ASN, development experience with good SALES REPS WANTED market for department /specialty stores. product packages & communication UPC, UCC128, and Store Compliance merchandising skills and established 1) Jr’s/Young Contemporary Sales PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Illust/Photo., ability to develop line. skills with overseas factories essential. req’d. Multi-tasking a must. Send resume: contacts preferred. Fax resume: 2) Sports Apparel (microfiber) Sales High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- E-mail resume [email protected] 3 yrs experience. APPAREL DEPOT (212) 268-3654 or e-mail: *min 2 yrs exp w/ active accounts sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Fax resume to 212-695-1050 30 Drexel Dr., Bayshore, NY 11706 [email protected] Ind. or in-house; Call Phil 213-393-1808 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 15

LADIES TOPS & BOTTOMS Est.’d 15 yr. old private label seeks strong salesperson Key Account Executive with great merchandising 3-5 years experience in skills and a proven track record. Excellent salary and contemporary market. Salary + benefits for the right person. Commission + Benefits. Fax resume or letter to: Pls. fax resume: Barbara 212-768-7973 212-869-6612 SHOWROOM SALES Women’s Contemporary Sportswear & Dresses company seeks exp’d sales associate w/ 3-5 years showroom exp. selling to Majors and Specialty stores in West Coast and Midwest Territories. Applicants must be computer literate, organized, have strong communication BOUTIQUE SALES skills, enjoy customer service, able to Busy W. Village shops need manage- travel & develop new accounts. Show- ment / sales pros. Min. 3 yrs. retail exp. room is based in Los Angeles. Fax Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 resume & salary req. to: (323) 964-9841

Junior Sales Rep Est’d over 20 years, private label mfr seeks exp’d junior sales rep who has active accounts with major retailers. Tel: 323-238-0558 Fax: 323-238-0578 ACCOUNTANT E-mail: [email protected] Hands-on self starter with experience to prepare financial statements, budg- ets, taxes. Knowledge of imports and domestic manufacturing, credit and Beautiful Jewelry Line Co. chargebacks, computer systems, ware- Seeking exp’d., highly motivated Sales housing. Call or E-mail to: Rep; both East and West Coasts. Must 516-538-3097 / [email protected] have est’d. relationships with Specialty Stores. Please Fax / E-mail resumes to: Director/Planning Mgr. -10years whole- 206-675-0245 / [email protected] sale/retail planning. Exp. w/replenishment &fashion programs. Developed financial budgets & inventory plans. Created report- ing for sales analysis. Walmart, Target, SALES REP Donna Karan, & Calvin Klein Jeans. A growing New York based sportswear Women’s, Men’s, Boys & Girls apparel. co. seeks a NY sales rep. w/ dept. and Retail Link, Partners Online, AS400, chain store contacts. All territories. Access, Retail Pro, STS, and JDA. Tel: (212) 268-5200 Fax: (212) 268-4842 Expert in Excel. Call: 646-245-2536

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