All That Glitters – Spark and Dazzle from the Permananent Collection co-curated by Janine LeBlanc and Roger Manley Randy and Susan Woodson Gallery January 23 – July 12, 2020 Through the ages, every human society has demonstrated a fascination with shiny objects. Necklaces made of glossy marine snail shells have been dated back nearly 135,000 years, while shiny crystals have been found in prehistoric burials, suggesting the allure they once held for their original owners. The pageantry of nearly every religion has long been enhanced by dazzling displays, from the gilded statues of Buddhist temples and the gleaming mosaics of Muslim mosques and Byzantine churches, to the bejeweled altarpieces and reliquaries of Gothic cathedrals. As both kings and gods, Hawaiian and Andean royalty alike donned garments entirely covered with brilliant feathers to proclaim their significance, while their counterparts in other cultures wore crowns of gold and gems. High status and desirability have always been signaled by the transformative effects of reflected light. Recent research indicates that our brains may be hard-wired to associate glossy surfaces with water (tinyurl.com/glossy-as-water). If so, the impulse drawing us toward them may have evolved as a survival mechanism. There may also be subconscious associations with other survival necessities. Gold has been linked to fire or the sun, the source of heat, light, and plant growth. The glitter of beads or sequins may evoke nighttime stars needed for finding one’s way. The flash of jewels may recall an instinctive association with eyes. In jungles as well as open grasslands, both prey and predator can be so well camouflaged that only the glint of an eye might reveal a lurking presence. Survival would depend on instant detection and identification, since even a tiny sparkle could announce a matter of life or death. Delving into the Gregg Museum’s vast permanent collection, All that Glitters offers a sampling of dazzling objects to pose the question, What is it that makes them so attractive? Eurasian Magpie, late 19th century France Taxidermied Eurasian Magpie, faux diamond ring, wood, gilded metal Anonymous lender The Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica) is ranked among the most intelligent of all non-human animals, including dolphins and chimps. Magpie social rituals, their manufacture and use of tools, an ability to imitate human voices, count numbers, predict behaviors, and invent new solutions to unfamiliar problems have all been well documented. Although not scientifically confirmed, European folklore also records a habit of larceny, with many tales of coins, jewelry, and other shiny valuables recovered from magpie nests. Skylark Lure, late 19th century France Briar root, pearwood stake, brass, mirrors, faceted glass, twine Anonymous lender Humans are far from the only species drawn to sparkle. Many birds, fish, reptiles, and insects are also attracted to reflected light. Subsistence hunters and fishers have long taken advantage of this instinctive impulse. For centuries, French and Italian hunters have used spinning lures to attract passing skylarks and other birds near enough to the ground to be caught in flip nets. The devices (miroir aux alouettes in French, specchietto per le allodole in Italian) have given rise to common figures of speech signifying deception or confusion: “La promesse du politicien n'était rien de plus qu'un miroir aux alouettes” might be translated as “The politician’s promise was nothing more than a con job.” Other English equivalents might include “smokescreen,” “scam,” “trap,” “smoke and mirrors,” etc. Left side of case: front: Aladdin Teapot, 1985, Waymon Cole (1905-1987), American, Seagrove, North Carolina back: Bulbous Jug, 1986, J.B. Cole Pottery, Seagrove, North Carolina Earthenware with “pewter” glaze, Leonidas J. Betts Collection | 1991.022.053a-b, 1991.022.054 Among the most important families affiliated with Seagrove’s pottery community are the Coles, who have worked in clay for nine generations. Waymon Cole’s “Aladdin” teapot was inspired, he said, by the Bible and resembles the terra-cotta oil lamps used throughout the Mediterranean region for thousands of years. Right side of case: Two Vases, 1925-1939, North State Pottery, Sanford, North Carolina Stoneware with manganese lead glaze Gift of the Friends of the Gallery | 2002.011.001 Will beQuest from the W.D. Morton estate |2005.050.028 Rebecca Palmer Cooper founded North State Pottery in 1924. Not a potter herself, she hired local potters to make the wares. Her husband, Henry Cooper, collaborated with the ceramic engineering department at NC State College (now NC State University) in experimenting with glaze chemistry. The high gloss from the “mirror black” glaze they pioneered together was difficult to achieve in a wood-fired groundhog kiln, but it gave North State a product other area potteries couldn’t match. Miao Flower Crown, 20th century China Stamped silver, wire Gift of Heather Troutman | 2018.005.031 “Miao,” an official Chinese government term for one of China's fifty-six authorized minorities, includes peoples of the Hmong, Hmub, Xong (Qo-Xiong), and A-Hmao ethnicities scattered across the mountainous regions of southern China, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. All share a number of cultural traits, including signifying the status of women by the amount of silver jewelry owned or worn during significant occasions such as weddings, funerals, and springtime celebrations. Miao families begin saving silver for brides-to-be at an early age, with crowns like this a key element in any Miao woman’s trousseau. Nazars and Tile, ca. 1975 Turkey Glass, macramé cord; glazed ceramic From the collection of Joan Mills Busko and Anonymous Lender | 2015.037.139, EDU113.016 Throughout much of the world, there is a belief in an invisible power often called the “evil eye.” Individuals who possess the evil eye are thought to be able to inflict misfortune, illness, or even physical injuries with a malevolent glance. Many cultures have developed means of defending against this, often with protective amulets and talismans. In the areas around Turkey and Greece, these typically resemble eyes made of glass (nazar), painted on boats, woven into rugs, formed as tiles, or worn as rings. In the Middle East and northeast Africa, people may display the hamsa, a hand-shaped pendant or wall-hanging, while in northwest Africa, crescent moon-shaped charms are common. Fortunately, mirrors, sequins, coins, and other reflective objects are also considered highly effective, to reflect any projected evil back toward its source. Silk Brocade Sari, late 19th - early 20th century Banaras (Varanasi), Uttar Pradesh, India Silk brocade, gold zari thread; handwoven Gift of Joan Mills Busko | EDU022.001 A sari is essentially a rectangular cloth about 5-9 yards long by 2-4 feet wide that is pleated and wrapped around the body over a short, snug blouse called a choli. Where more gold than silk shows on the surface of the cloth, it is referred to as kincab brocaded silk. If used as a wedding dress, the endpiece of a sari like this would have been pulled over the head. The decorative use of zari, the fine metal thread woven into the fabric, is a marker of the finest Banaras (Varanasi) sari weaving. Holographic Shirt, 1990s Vehicle, USA; fabric made in Korea Polyester holographic fabric; machine-sewn Anonymous gift | 2012.046.001 Once physicist Stephen Benton (1941–2003) invented the rainbow hologram, which can be seen under ordinary white light, it was probably only a matter of time before someone would attempt to turn the discovery into something for fun or adornment. This is the familiar type of hologram now seen on credit cards, driver licenses, and foreign currency. Evening Gown, 1978 Alfred Bosand (1924-2013), American Silk chiffon and crepe-backed satin, rhinestones, silver bugle beads; hand and machine-sewn Gift of the Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) | 1997.013.003a One of New York’s last privately owned couturiers with his own label, Alfred Bosand’s clientele included Patricia Nixon, Ann Landers, Dionne Warwick, June Carter Cash, Judy Collins, and Mae West. Evening Ensemble, ca. 1990 Bob Mackie (b. 1939), American Silk, glass beads; hand-beaded, hand and machine-sewn Gift of Rhoda L. and Roger M. Berkowitz in honor of Lorraine L. Friedman | 2014.037.002a-c Robert Gordon Mackie is known for his theatrical designs and many outfits created for celebrities, including Cher, Bette Midler, Diana Ross, Judy Garland, Marlene Dietrich, Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, and Elton John. Seed Bead Rope Necklaces, ca. 1965 Glass beads; hand-made Gift of Mary Ann & Edmond Gelinas 1999.020.089a-b Beaded Evening Sweater, ca. 1960 British Hong Kong Wool knit, beads, seQuins; hand-sewn and embellished Gift of Emyl Jenkins Sexton | 2004.016.005 Evening Purse, 1929 Whiting & Davis (founded 1876), Massachusetts, USA Metal mesh, enameled brass Gift of John and Ann Sanders | 2005.037.126 This handbag was advertised as “enameled Spanish lace pattern” and "available for Christmas 1929" for $24.00. Shriners Fez or Tarboosh, 1945-1959 Zembo Shrine, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania Saco Uniforms, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Wool felt, leather, silver and gold bullion, brass, rhinestones, metal; hand-embroidered Gift of Kim B. & Roselyn G. Batcheller 2013.001.039 The Shriners was founded in New York City in 1872 after two Masons attended a party thrown by an Arabian diplomat and thought it might be fun to adopt the same theme and make it a regular activity. While much Shriner pageantry and symbolism derives from Islam, these bear only the same tenuous relationship that student fraternities do to ancient Greece. Named for the city of Fez in Morocco, stiff, brimless felt hats were once worn throughout North Africa and the Middle East. Shriners were only one of a number of men’s fraternal organizations founded in the late nineteenth century that wore fezzes and took inspiration from what were once considered “exotic” cultural traits.