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Home , Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Little black dress

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Experience it! Taking a Bow From the audience to the stage, find your place in H-Town’s performing arts. > PAGE 34 The Little

DressCelebrate the LBD and find one to love. > PAGE 46 46 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 CELEBRATING THE LITTLE BLACK

BAYOU CITY PRESENTS our ode to the —from its history to advice for choosing the perfect dress to the trends that will determine what you’re wearing tomorrow.

by libby ingrassia & becky davis photography by cody bess

+ scan this page scan this page with Layar to see a behind-the-scenes video from the photo shoot.

bayoucitymagazine.com 47 “The little black dress must be luxurious, rich, sensual, diaphanous, exotic, severe, lush, demure, demanding, frivolous, amusing, and it must linger in memory, but above all, it must be simple and little and black.” —

48 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 HEADED TO WORK? TOSS ON A . HEADED TO A COCKTAIL PARTY? GRAB THOSE LOUBOUTIN HEELS AND THAT . HEADED TO THE MUSEUM AND LUNCH WITH THE GIRLS? PULL ON SOME AND A CARDI. WHAT’S BENEATH THOSE GLAM ACCESSORIES? WHY, THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS, OF COURSE.

Why does it always work? Is it the color? The fabric? The silhouette? The simplicity? Perhaps, at its most successful, it is all of these. The little black dress, or LBD, is the woman’s quintessential piece of —the piece that has become the go-to item for any occasion. Named one of the 50 that changed the world by the Design Museum, the LBD has “become a genre in its own right.” As fans of this simple, elegant, must-have piece that is, in October, celebrating the 88th anniversary of its first appearance in Vogue, we had to share our admiration with a look back at the dress’s history, a look at the trends of today’s LBD and a glance at who’s designing the LBD of tomorrow.

The LBD may be de rigueur today, the practical , the staple of the closet for its color (not sus- but it hasn’t been that many years ceptible to dirt) and for its simple style (both women who had money ago that black was inappropri- and those who did not could dress it up or down and look their best). Unraveling ate for wear other than when in For many, it retained just enough connection to its mourning mourning or if you were clergy or roots to symbolize both “sexiness and adulthood,” according to the history in service in a great house, “below Ellen Melinkoff in “What We Wore.” stairs.” In most of the 19th cen- In the 1930s, both day and evening dresses came in black. tury, black was worn sym- According to Edelman, ’s movie influ- bolically for mourning—for years (or even decades). enced a masculine tailoring, and broad-shouldered little black In 1926, however, no less a fashion icon than Gabrielle “” dresses with white collar and cuffs that became popular for day. offered a sketch of a short, simple black dress in the pages That was just one example, however; through the years, actresses of Vogue magazine. Called by Vogue “Chanel’s Ford,” the dress on the big and little screens, artists and musicians of all stripes, was—like Ford’s T car—set to become the standard; it was added to the style and allure of the LBD, from Édith Piaf’s simple appealing, accessible and available across social classes. Vogue also unadorned black dress to the short sheath dresses worn by the called the dress “a sort of uniform for all women of taste.” The backup singers in Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video. dress was simple, allowed for movement and yet looked…com- In the 1940s, the war forced fashion to the back seat, and the plete. Put together. little black dress took center stage even for evening wear, thanks to One of Chanel’s hallmarks was pauvre chic—bringing her style fabric rationing and other austerity. When Christian launched and fashion to the masses of women who had discovered their inde- his “New Look” in 1947, the styles changed—tiny , padded pendence during the First World War. Vogue even suggested that for hips, soft shoulders, full . They looked wonderful in black and anyone with little money, “it’s marvelous to have the possibility of just begged for high heels and yards of fabric. having one dress for the whole season, for the whole year, and be In the prosperity of the 1950s, women were expected to be coiffed, well dressed.” manicured and perfected with accessories completing the look that Of course, Chanel’s dress was not the first black dress, long or started with the black dress with a wasp waist and wide . short, even in the pages of Vogue. John Singer Sargent’s “Madame In the 1954 “Sabrina” and the 1961 “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” Audrey X” painting was launched in 1884, to shock and some outrage at the Hepburn wore some of the most iconic versions of the little black display of décolletage and contradiction between mourning black dress in Hubert de ’s designs. and straps. According to Amy Hofman Edelman in “The Edelman suggests that the dichotomy of the 1960s was borne Little Black Dress,” the painting almost ruined Sargent’s career. A out in its LBDs, from the extreme mini to the simple black sheath. perusal of historic Vogue covers and the “In Vogue” illustrated his- Similar things happened during the “” period of the 1990s, tory shows plenty of black before Chanel…but there was something when a simple dress might be paired with strappy or Doc about that moment of post-war, pre-war, post-flapper fashion that Marten boots. The 1980s brought both glamor and casual knits. was inspired by Chanel’s simple and practical dress, shown with a Regardless of what its hemline or neckline did over the decades, string of plain pearls. the little black dress remained ubiquitous, necessary and beautiful. In the decades since, the LBD has seen its hemlines go up and down; “You can wear black at any hour of day or night, at any age and for seen its shoulders go wide and soft; seen its neckline plunge and rise. any occasion. A little black dress is the most essential thing in any With the Great Depression, the little black dress continued to be woman’s wardrobe,” wrote in 1954.

bayoucitymagazine.com 49 50 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 “When a little black dress is right, there is nothing else to wear.” —ÉDITH PIAF

bayoucitymagazine.com 51 “The little black dress is the Cutouts. Lace. Retro. Every designer inter- prets it; every trend makes its way in. As Didier Ludot points out in his true friend. You Selecting book “The Little Black Dress Vintage Treasure” (which is an accompani- ment to the collection of LBDs he has remember when your curated in his store), “From to , from Anne LBD style Demeulemeester to Josephus Thimister you met her... and Martin Margiela, from the Austrian Helmut Lange to the German Jil Sander, all the new big names in fashion tried to make the little black dress what happened their own, in umpteen variations on their grunge and minimalist styles. Realizing that the dress had become a kind of obligatory ini- tiation in the eyes of the press and fashion professionals, every one the first time of them went ahead with their own exercise in style, with a sense of taking a crucial test in their careers.” With so many designers interpreting the dress in so many ways, you wore her... with so many options, how can the dress also be timeless and classic? As Chanel said, “Fashion changes but style remains.” So, selecting our own little black dress should be about finding the right style for she travels with us. Beyond trends and current , the beauty of the vast variety of little black dresses is that we are assured that we will find one—or two or three—that our styles and climate, our events and figures. you...is patient and Houston stylist Shelly Bishop offers the advice that because the LBD is so universal and attractive on most people that it should be viewed as an opportunity to wear what makes you feel beautiful. “Showcase constant...you go your best features,” says Bishop. If your back is your best feature, Bishop advises, you can try something that has a more open back. Bishop also suggests keeping your events in mind. If you’re attending a lot of cocktail parties, that calls for a little more formal- to her when you ity in your LBD. If you’ll wear your LBD during the day, or you’re more active, you might look for cotton or fabric. Regardless, Bishop says, “Accessories play a big part. You can change it up with don’'t know where your , your accessories, your bag.” It has been said that buying the LBD falls into two categories: buying the timeless classic version or buying the trend. And yet, else to go and she as Didier Ludot writes, “The little black dress obeys no standards, resists every fad, is fashion incarnate.” So even when a trend influ- ences the LBD, the critical feature is that it transcends the trendy, is ALWAYS reliable that it is simple, that it makes dressing for every event simple. So advice about buying the little black dress becomes the advice your grandmother might have given you about buying clothes in and timeless.” general: Find what flatters you and buy the best you can afford in a dress that fits you perfectly. —DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

52 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 bayoucitymagazine.com 53 54 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 What are you likely to find when you shop for a little black dress this season? Victor Delgado, the area manager for Gucci, local says they curate little black dresses not only F O R by exclusivity of designer and style, but also THE MEN by silhouette—what shapes are popular in styles & a particular market. The current shape and Do men have an LBD equivalent? trend they’re carrying? Gucci creative director Something that can be dressed up or Frida Giannini’s current inspiration is a con- down, worn for any occasion? From a advice temporary interpretation of ’60s-. slim suit to a perfect , Joseph Bostic, Gucci’s Galleria store man- from the perfect white to the ager, suggests that Gucci’s LBD styles are sophisticated and while tuxedo, stylists and designers have they don’t push the envelope too much, the Gucci look is typically suggested many options. Perhaps edgier and more durable. the fact that there were so many Delgado says that the LBD is always a staple at Gucci—and in answers is an answer in itself. every woman’s closet—because the dress acts like a blank slate on But what does the gentleman which to create the outfit. You can add accessories, take a virtual wear when the woman goes for her style vacation, as you design your look. LBD? Suit up. Of course, Ann Mashburn, of Sid Mashburn and Ann Mashburn, Perhaps not always a fully suggests, “The fabric is really what sets an LBD apart.” matched suit, but a well-cut, fitted The silhouette matters to Mashburn, too. “My personal favorite shirt with dress and a suit is a sleeveless shift à la ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ (the true LBD if jacket. This ensemble offers all the there ever was one).” style and all the flexibility of the blank “I have one [in my collection] in a great grosgrain with a square slate that is the LBD. Need to dress cutout at the armhole (a bit mod and super groovy) and then it down? Switch out the jacket with another one in a perfectly cut double-faced wool…a little heavier for a vest. Or select select a patterned colder weather and just about as luxe as it gets.” shirt or an edgier jacket style. Dress You can style it with color or simply, she says. “If you’re missing it up? Go for the full black or charcoal the color, you can make up for it with your lips or your shoes or suit; add a tie or a pocket square—or your (or sometimes a colorful personality is enough).” not. When she pushes the LBD to its Women wear the LBD, according to Mashburn, to feel pretty. limits, he can, too; pull the classic Regardless of a trend or styles in a particular area, women do, and black tuxedo out and it’s a match. should, feel pretty in the LBD. “You know it when you put it on and As with the LBD, the key is leaning look like a slightly more gorgeous version of yourself,” Mashburn toward the timeless with good qual- says. That’s when you’ve found the right one. “And simpler is always ity in fabric, fitted perfectly. better when you’re picking a lifetime piece.” Paraphrasing , Mashburn promises, “You will never be under- or over-dressed if you show up in a little black dress— that’s the great thing about it. So it’s great for those times you don’t know quite what to wear.”

“The little black dress takes us to parties, job interviews, and funerals. We experience all of life's big events in the little black dress.” —

bayoucitymagazine.com 55 GET THE LBD LOOK The little black dress can be interpreted widely, by adding prints, lace and even length. See how our stylist curated our looks from these local shops, clothiers and boutiques.

ON THE COVER AND ON PAGE 50 JOSH: PHOENIX: JOHN VARVATOS V neck sweater $298 at CYNTHIA VINCENT Long sleeve slit dress RYE 51 $465 at DRYDEN KREPS RYE 51 $175 at RYE 51 IOSSELLIANI $932 at JOSEPH JOHN VARVATOS slim jean $398 at RYE 51 CHANEL jacket (sold as set) $650 at SHWOOD black $145 at DRYDEN CHEEKY VINTAGE KREPS

JOSH: ON PAGE 54 Q CLOTHIERS made to order tuxedo; price PHOENIX: upon request at Q CLOTHIERS MILLY fringe $245 at DRYDEN KREPS CHANEL vintage skirt (part of suit set) $650 ON PAGE 46 at CHEEKY VINTAGE PHOENIX: KENZO dress, price upon request at SLOAN JOSH: HALL JOHN VARVATOS vest $398 at RYE 51 MARIE LAURE CHAMOREL necklace, price JOHN VARVATOS tie $95 at RYE 51 upon request at SAM AND LILLI

ON PAGE 48 ON THIS SPREAD PHOENIX: PHOENIX: NIGHTCAP pencil dress $396 at MIO BLACK HALO Anabelle dress $390 at BOUTIQUE DRYDEN KREPS ALEXIS BITTAR bracelets $395 at JOSEPH HALLEH ring, Price Upon Request at SLOAN HALL JOSH: CIRCLE OF GENTLEMEN vested blazer $1050 JOSH: at DRYDEN KREPS Q Clothiers custom blazer, Price Upon SAND dress shirt $225 at DRYDEN KREPS Request at Q CLOTHIERS AG pants $265 at DRYDEN JOHN VARVATOS grey tuxedo shirt $298 at KREPS RYE 51 MAGNANNI wing tip suede $325 at DRYDEN KREPS

ON PAGE 53 PHOENIX: TRACY REESE mesh dress $348 at DRYDEN KREPS MARIE LAURE CHAMOREL drop earrings, MODELS: Phoenix Hamilton and Josh King for Price Upon Request at SAM AND LILLI Neal Hamil agency. STYLIST: Vico Puentes. SHANAZ convertible clutch $385 at SAM HAIR & MAKEUP: Jessica Alston for Tre Spa AND LILLI and Salon. SHOT ON LOCATION at Hotel Icon, STUART WEITZMAN cutaway suede booties The Honeymoon and Market Square. $535 at JOSEPH STORES + scan this page with Layar to see more of our LBD looks.

56 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 bayoucitymagazine.com 57 Interior designer and LBDD muse Lucinda Loya wears the updated version of Gabby Ong’s winning dress. (opposite) Jeff Shell launched the LBDD organization to help fashion students in Texas learn the business of design.

58 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 FINDING TOMORROW’S LITTLE BLACK DRESS

The styles of the past industry takes being well-connected,” Shell says. “It’s all about net- and the dresses you can working and who you know. LBDD provides opportunities to meet buy today are all well and industry leaders and get recognized.” LITTLE BLACK good, but many true fash- From recognition in widely publicized contests to meeting—and ionistas are looking for for the winners, working directly with—successful designers, the DRESS DESIGNER the dress that perfectly contest opens doors for the participants. LBDD “cultivates the marries timeless style relationship between the emerging designer or student with people and yet manages to set that can mentor them, hire them, manufacture for them,” Shell tomorrow’s trend. One man helping to find and inspire the design says. “Understanding how an idea translates into a sellable product of tomorrow’s LBD is Jeff Shell. is crucial for students to succeed in a competitive world.” The organization he founded in 2008, the Little Black Dress Some successes from previous years show how well the model Shell Designer (LBDD), introduces Texas to the LBDs—and designers— has created works to help students become emerging designers. Viet of the future. In this state-wide competition, fashion students and Nguyen, LBDD winner in 2011, showed his first collection at Fashion emerging designers submit little black dresses with the hope of win- Houston 2013 and is also a coveted patternmaker for Houston ning not only scholarships but also the opportunity to be mentored designers David Peck, Jonathan Blake and Amir Taghi. Jo’se Reyes, a by experienced designers and to design for a muse. 2013 LBDD finalist, also showed at Fashion Houston 2013. When he selected the little black Shell works with what he dress as the object of the competi- describes as a “very involved com- tion, Shell wanted to honor Coco mittee of fashion media, luxury Chanel and her “passion for fash- retailers and designers” to select ion.” Over time, he’s been amazed at the judges, mentors and muses for the dresses that have been created. the competition. The judges select “I’m always surprised at how many the winners of the dresses based on ways an LBD can be created,” Shell their originality, their construction says. “I’m more and more impressed and their retail appeal—the even- each year that we don’t see repeats.” tual goal for a dress, after all, is to Perhaps part of the reason for the license winning designs for manu- variety is the current fashion trends. facturing and retail distribution. Shell explains, “LBDD definitely After the winning dresses are reflects current fashion trends. selected, the top 10 designers are For example, this year we see the paired with both mentors and peplum and laser-cut leather.” muses. The designers work with the Shell is very enthusiastic about mentors to improve the designs. the students involved in the LBDD The muses are women of standing competition. “Nothing is more pas- in the community who will wear sionate for me than these kids,” he the dresses eventually. These muses says. He started with the recogni- share their style and needs with tion that the arts as a whole are the designers and the team works underfunded in education and that those studying fashion have few together to customize the dress for the muse, creating a dress she scholarship opportunities. loves that could also be manufactured and sold. The organization has given over $110,000 in scholarships thus This year’s winning dress was designed by Gabby Ong. Ong, who far, Shell says. But even beyond the scholarship funding, the stu- is from , started school at Houston Community College dents who get involved in the competition have the opportunity to in 2010 and heard about the LBDD competition from the start. learn about the real business of fashion. Returning after a break from designing, Ong decided it was time Shell knew that through his work as director of the Neal Hamil to try the competition. “Last year was my first opportunity after 2 modeling agency, he had contacts and experiences that he could put years of break after having a baby, so I thought just go for it,” she to use to help these students get started. “Breaking into the fashion says. “I thought about entering for a long time.”

bayoucitymagazine.com 59 60 bayou city magazine October/November 2014 + scan this page with Layar to see more of the While her first passion is shoe design, Ong was LBDD dresses and process. inspired for this dress by a Chanel ad. “I was look- ing for inspiration and I saw a Chanel ad and it had THE a banister with a pattern. Actually the banister was my inspiration,” she says. “It was kind of like just the way I cut this. I chose leather and sheer organza. I DRESS wanted a loose silhouette.” From the sheer panels to the hand-cut leather, the dress seems to follow many of the trends showing in both LBDs and other dresses. However, Ong says, “I look for trends but I’m not really a trend follower.” In general, Ong continues, “I like a simple dress. I like things that are simple, but with a twist, and have some unique features.” Other elements she includes in her designs include texture and opposition. She says, “I like things that are masculine and feminine; I like hard and soft.” One is never Ong’s mentor, previous LBDD winner Viet Nguyen, picked Ong’s LBD dress a standout when he first saw the designs. “I knew it would be under- at least in the top 3 for sure,” he says. EDITOR’S In general, Nguyen thinks an LBD should lean toward the timeless. CHOICE He says, “Little black dresses should be simple. Less is more.” Of course, or over- The best way to pick an LBD is that doesn’t mean trends can’t influence the designs. Of Ong’s winning to find one that your style, dress, Nguyen says, “It’s really trendy with the hand-cut leather.” so Bayou City editor Becky Davis dressed But what he likes best about the dress? He says, “It’s flowy, easy couldn’t help but name an editor’s to wear and has a great silhouette.” choice from the LBDD competition. with a From working with Nguyen, Ong says she learned about being a professional designer and dressmaker—from altering patterns and I have enjoyed the Little Black Dress making smooth French seams to what it takes to make and manu- little black facture the finished product. Designer competition for the last In addition to working with Nguyen, Ong has also worked with few years. I am always amazed dress. muse Lucinda Loya. Loya, a passionate interior designer, fundraiser to see fresh ideas and generally and trendsetter, was invited to participate and says it sounded like there is one dress that really stands —KARL a fun opportunity so she jumped at the chance. “I love the energy out for me. This year, the dress LAGERFELD that comes with a young, eager designer,” Loya says. “I remember designed by Diana Perkins was the that. It takes a lot of hard work to pull it off, to go for dreams. I dress. I wasn’t surprised that many want to support anyone’s creative side.” of my friends also tagged this dress Ong’s design suited both Loya’s personality and what she needs as their “fan favorite.” from an LBD. “It needs a lot of style because it’s a little black dress,” My favorite elements of the dress she says. “I look for dresses that are unique and make a statement— are the the mock turtleneck and the understated but edgy.” unconstructed sleeves. Muse Donae That’s what she got in Ong’s leather and lace dress. “I like that it’s Chramosta requested a modification layered and has the lace inside,” Loya says. As someone who’s not of the fabric to a lighter jersey and Designer Gabby Ong and always a big fan of lace, the touch of having it on the inside of the of the neckline to a boatneck, which her mentor, Viet Nguyen, hand-cut leather was just right, she continues. Another element of certainly extends the seasonality. I work with muse Lucinda the dress that Loya appreciates is that it’s slightly see-through, but love it both ways. Loya to make changes subtly. Again, simple enough, and “nothing too frou-frou or over I can imagine this dress in a vari- to the original dress the top,” but still edgy. ety of colors and styled for day or and fit it to her needs Loya didn’t change much about the dress from the original win- evening wear, with and and lifestyle. The hand- ning design. “It has clean lines but with a creative approach,” she boots or and ridiculously cut leather semi-sheer says. “It has a lot of style.” high heels. All in all, my perfect LBD. dress was inspired by an Look for the final reveal of the muse-inspired and mentor- —Becky Davis architectural feature in a improved LBDD dresses to take their turn on the runway at this Muse Donae Chramosta models the Chanel ad. year’s Fashion Houston event. With a little luck—and a lot of dress after designer Diana Perkins style—you’ll find your perfect LBD of tomorrow. updated it to fit her style.

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