Te s t Re v i e w #3 De s i g n 20 Yves Saint Laurent Art and fashion drawn together Fa s h i o n /Cl o t h i n g Mondrian inspired dress Functions (not universal or constant) 1. Warmth and Protection 20’s Coco Chanel 2. Supply Information about the wearer Most influential 20th century fashion designer. Age Inspired by men’s wear & tailoring Breeching Renaissance England -- boys first pants simple, easy, sporty and relaxed Until ‘50s: Kids same types of clothes as parents. Pullover sweater for women. Toddlers seldom wore bright colors. Little black dress Group Identification Made suntan fashionable Military, Police, Religious Groups, Ceremonial Social Status World War II Sumptuary Laws Men: Bomber jackets, fur lined to protect pilots. Designed to restrict excessive personal expenditures Women’s work wear: overalls and pants. usually on social, religious or moral grounds. Necessity -- women doing men’s jobs Examples: Patriotism -- to assist war effort France, only kings could use gold & silver Bikini swimsuit named after Bikini Atoll where early embroidery WWII nuclear testing occurred. China yellow fabric limited to Emperor. Bikini didn’t appear in America until around 1960. Africa: Ashanti tribe, only Kings could wear certain patterns. Civil Rights Movement 60’s brought awareness & appreciation of African culture, fabrics & art. 1900’s French Haute Couture (high sewing). Dashiki, best known African garment in the West Prices so high only wealthy could purchase. (loose fitting tunic-style shirt)

Impractical fashions for wealthy women, indicated Therez Fleetwood, African American designer husband or father could afford to hire servants. Kente cloth patterns and fabrics from Senegal Restrictive dress. Examples: Know for bead and shell-adorned wedding gowns. Elizabethan layers of petticoats and skirts. Bound feet & small shoes, China Giorgio Armani, Italian Hobble skirt early 1900s’ Revolutionized men’s wear. Corset Removed traditional padding. Use of light weight luxury fabric for suits 3. Enhance Sexual Appeal softer more relaxed style. Erogenous zones shift to emphasize various areas of body. Men: Corset, Cod piece Issey Miyake -- Japanese clothing designer Women: as likely to be found in museums as Saks. Bustle Corset Supports of: wale bone, cane or metal. Celebrity Influence Mini skirt Katharine Hepburn 30’s pants James Dean Blue jeans and T-shirts 50’s Bloomers -- Amelia Jenks Bloomer 1850’s Jackie Kennedy (Woman’s rights advocate) Oleg Cassini Official White House designer. Political Influences Trademark suit and pillbox hat. Spanish dominance of Europe, 16th century Males: leg-o-mutton sleeves Gr a p h i c s ruff and doublet with skirt attached 30’s Sans Serif fonts, designed by the Bauhaus. Serif fonts considered holdover from handwriting. Great Britain 19th century males: three-piece lounge suit Peter Behrens -- German architect, designer educated urban elites worldwide. directly influenced: Walter Gropius, Mies Van der Rohe, and Le Corbusier. After rationing of WWII, glamorous fashion period. Concept of total corporate identity through graphics. Christian Dior, known for extravagant “New Look” in 1947. A controversial and powerful political statement Apple Logo since Europe was still suffering from post-war shortages. First computer firm not using corporate name in identity. Decades long dipute with Apple Record, finally settled 2006 IBM Ta r g e t Ca m p a i g n -- Kirshenbaum, Bond Logos: Paul Rand Goals: Elliot Noyes: modernized IBM’s design philosophy. Dispel belief merchandise same as Wallmart & Kmart Charles/Ray Eames: IBM’s company’ films, exhibitions and Fashion campaign with hardware & housewares. Mies van der Rohe, Chicago high rise Target customers demographic: 40s, college educated, median income $47,000. Herb Lubalin Copy latest designs -- in stores within 6 months. Most talented type designer of 20th century. Figurative typographer. Ab s o l u t Founded ITC. One of most effective campaigns of the 20th century. Typogram --illustrative use of type and logos Asserted its superiority. Magazines : Diffused pomposity with humor. Saturday Evening Post, Eros, Fact & Avant Garde Sales increase from 1981 to late 90’s =14,900%.

Sa u l Ba s s Mo t i o n Pi c t u r e s Achieved fame in multiple disciplines. Persistence of Vision -- An optical phenomenon : Photographer, writer, actor and film director. Illusion of smooth, and continuous movement. Academy Award for: “Why Man Creates”. Stimulus registered in brain after stimulus ends. Examples: Movies, flip books, kinetoscopes. Created large corporate identity programs: AT&T, United Airlines, Minolta, General Foods Kinetoscope Animation & live action for credits Bulky, coin-operated, movie peep show. Created mini-films for prologues & epilogue credits. A continuous film loop viewed in motion, not projected. West Side Story & Around the World in 80 Days Walk on the Wild Side Thomas Edison First “Motion picture” 1893 Fred Ott’s Sneeze With Otto Preminger: Film studio, the “Black Maria,” New Jersey. Anatomy of a Murder The Man with the Golden Arm Lumiere Brothers, Paris Solved problems of projection. With Alfred Hitchcock: First commercial exhibition of movie. Vertigo Psycho -- credits and directed shower scene Nickelodeon - Cinema for a nickel. Pittsburgh. Magic Lantern - Synonym for early projector. Do y l e Da n e Be r n b a c h Madison Avenue, hottest advertising agency of 60’s. First color movie: Ethnically / gender diverse employees. Disney’s animated short, Flowers and Trees (1932) Best Known campaigns: Disney’s first Academy Award. Avis -- Number 2 tries harder. In ‘59 Volkswagen “Beetle” First spoken voice in a feature film 1927: “The Jazz Singer” Al Jolson Volkswagen “People’s Car.” Hollywood Stars -- American Royalty Sales in Europe good - due to post war shortages The New York Times coined the term ‘stars’ for leading of gas and materials. movie players. Mary Pickford, dubbed “America’s Sweetheart” 1913 Volkswagen -- Sales in US slow: Car’s small size. Charlie Chaplin Unusual appearance Director, actor and British vaudevillian No fins, streamlining, little chrome Produced, directed, wrote, starred in, did the Lack of power. choreography and musical scoring for his films. Connections with Nazi Germany. “City Lights” Chaplin’s longest undertaking.

Witty copy appealed to 60’s generation. Woody Allen Used perceived disadvantages to sell VW’s Only American movie director in the modern age to have size (gas mileage, parking, maneuvering). achieved absolute independence. Lemon campaign - “Our inspectors are picky” “Manhattan” Homage to Chaplin No planned obsolescence Improvements for function, not style. Indie film (independent) Gordon Parks Usually a low-budget film that is produced by a small Documentarian, Photojournalist, Fashion Photog. movie studio as a response to the difficulty of getting First African American to work for Life Magazine studio backing for experimental films. Novelist, film maker -- Best known film Shaft.

American Film Institute Best Films, Coverage of wars changed with Vietnam. from top 100 Press more willing to show: 1. Citizen Kane a. Atrocities committed by both sides. 2. Casablanca b. Deaths of civilians.

Top Grossing Films (adjusted for inflation etc.) Documentarians 1. Gone with The Wind Conscience of photographers. 2. Star Wars Sabastio Salgado, Brazilian documentary photographer.

Ph o t o g r a p h y Portraits Daguerre, scientist 1839 Annie Leibovitz Announced technique for creating permanent image with Rolling Stone Magazine photographer 60’s. light. Vanity Fair Photo Editor (current). Daguerreotypes meant average families could Studio in Chrysler building. afford portraits. Fashion Photography George Eastman Irving Penn, Vogue Magazine 1888 first pocket camera More Vogue covers than any other photographer The Kodak -- named for sound of shutter. Richard Avedon William Henry Jackson 1870’s Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue Landscape photography American West. took fashion out of studio and out to location settings Persuaded Congress to create national park (Yellowstone). Digital technology Sacramento Bee was the first newspaper in the country Alfred Stieglitz, late 19th & early 20th century. to use computers to handle photographs. Photographer, East Coast Promoted photography as an art. Be sure to review all study guides used this semester. Gallery, known as the “291”. In addition to the topics and individuals discussed Journal: Camera Work. during the last third of the course, pay particular attention to reviewing the following F64 (after a small aperture). Informal group West coast -- designers / subjects / architects from previous Primarily landscape photography: exams: Large format cameras (8”x10” or 4”x5” negatives). Black & white photographs. Designers / Architects Among the members: Le Corbusier Edward Weston, Ansel Adams, Imogen Cunningham. Mies Van der Rohe Frank Lloyd Wright THE 20’s Walter Gropius Three significant photographic developments. Charles and Ray Eames 1. Color film (not widely used til early 60’s.) Frank Gehry 2. The birth of tabloid size newspaper (N.Y. City) Philip Johnson a. Small size -- convenient. Michael Graves b. Relied heavily upon photographs Eero Saarinen c. Sensational content: celebrities, socialites and gangsters. Corporations: IBM, AT&T d. The Graphic -- tabloid named for a camera. Styles: Classical 3. The invention of the 35mm camera -- Germany Art Nouveau a. Important tool for photojournalists Neoclassical b. Allowed photographers to capture Art Deco “Decisive Moment” -- Cartier Bresson Modern c. Not widely used until WWII. Postmodern