Get a Taste of Theatre Design with Our Newest Series: the Old Globe Coloring Book! Every Thursday, We'll Post a New Page Featu
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
HISTORY and DEVELOPMENT of FASHION Phyllis G
HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION Phyllis G. Tortora DOI: 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10020a Abstract Although the nouns dress and fashion are often used interchangeably, scholars usually define them much more precisely. Based on the definition developed by researchers Joanne Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach Higgins, dress should encompass anything individuals do to modify, add to, enclose, or supplement the body. In some respects dress refers to material things or ways of treating material things, whereas fashion is a social phenomenon. This study, until the late twentieth century, has been undertaken in countries identified as “the West.” As early as the sixteenth century, publishers printed books depicting dress in different parts of the world. Books on historic European and folk dress appeared in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. By the twentieth century the disciplines of psychology, sociology, anthropology, and some branches of art history began examining dress from their perspectives. The earliest writings about fashion consumption propose the “ trickle-down” theory, taken to explain why fashions change and how markets are created. Fashions, in this view, begin with an elite class adopting styles that are emulated by the less affluent. Western styles from the early Middle Ages seem to support this. Exceptions include Marie Antoinette’s romanticized shepherdess costumes. But any review of popular late-twentieth-century styles also find examples of the “bubbling up” process, such as inner-city African American youth styles. Today, despite the globalization of fashion, Western and non-Western fashion designers incorporate elements of the dress of other cultures into their work. An essential first step in undertaking to trace the history and development of fashion is the clarification and differentiation of terms. -
Diana's Favorite Things
Diana’s Favorite Things By Trail End State Historic Site Curator Dana Prater; from Trail End Notes, March 2000 “Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes ... “ Although we didn’t find a blue satin sash, we recently discovered something even better. While cataloging items from the Manville Kendrick Estate collection, we had the pleasure of examining some fantastic dresses that belonged to Manville’s wife, Diana Cumming Kendrick. Fortunately for us, Diana saved many of her favorite things, and these dresses span almost sixty years of fashion history. Diana Cumming (far right) and friends, c1913 (Kendrick Collection, TESHS) Few things reveal as much about our personalities and lifestyles as our clothing, and Diana Kendrick’s clothes are no exception. There are two silk taffeta party dresses dating from around 1914-1916 and worn when Diana was a young teenager. The pink one is completely hand sewn and the rounded neckline and puffy sleeves are trimmed with beaded flowers on a net background. Pinked and ruched fabric ribbons loop completely around the very full skirt, which probably rustled delightfully when she danced. The pale green gown consists of an overdress with a shorter skirt and an underdress - almost like a slip. The skirt of the slip has the same pale green fabric and extends out from under the overskirt. Both skirt layers have a scalloped hem. A short bertha (like a stole) is attached at the back of the rounded neckline and wraps around the shoulders, repeating the scalloped motif and fastening at the front. This dress even includes a mini-bustle of stiff buckram to add fullness in the back. -
C U R R I C U L U M G U I
C U R R I C U L U M G U I D E NOV. 20, 2018–MARCH 3, 2019 GRADES 9 – 12 Inside cover: From left to right: Jenny Beavan design for Drew Barrymore in Ever After, 1998; Costume design by Jenny Beavan for Anjelica Huston in Ever After, 1998. See pages 14–15 for image credits. ABOUT THE EXHIBITION SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film presents Cinematic The garments in this exhibition come from the more than Couture, an exhibition focusing on the art of costume 100,000 costumes and accessories created by the British design through the lens of movies and popular culture. costumer Cosprop. Founded in 1965 by award-winning More than 50 costumes created by the world-renowned costume designer John Bright, the company specializes London firm Cosprop deliver an intimate look at garments in costumes for film, television and theater, and employs a and millinery that set the scene, provide personality to staff of 40 experts in designing, tailoring, cutting, fitting, characters and establish authenticity in period pictures. millinery, jewelry-making and repair, dyeing and printing. Cosprop maintains an extensive library of original garments The films represented in the exhibition depict five centuries used as source material, ensuring that all productions are of history, drama, comedy and adventure through period historically accurate. costumes worn by stars such as Meryl Streep, Colin Firth, Drew Barrymore, Keira Knightley, Nicole Kidman and Kate Since 1987, when the Academy Award for Best Costume Winslet. Cinematic Couture showcases costumes from 24 Design was awarded to Bright and fellow costume designer acclaimed motion pictures, including Academy Award winners Jenny Beavan for A Room with a View, the company has and nominees Titanic, Sense and Sensibility, Out of Africa, The supplied costumes for 61 nominated films. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth. -
Reta Blossom in Corset and Bustle
MARCH 10. 1935. CHICAGO SUNDAY TRIBUNE: n 9 PART 7-PAGE 12. S££SZ$i "'9 . • • reta Blossom Out In Corset and Bustle In Next ilm HOll YWOOD Period Stvles Hollywood Men I Abhor Sartorial HAPPENINGS Revived for RUSSIAN APPEARING Perfection Now Bob Hopkins, comedy writer at DANCER AT M.·G.-M. has bought him a ranch at Russian Tale IN EARLY any actress In Holly· Encino, near Eddie Horton's. He wood would be set pleasurably THE PALACE says he wants some " first run fresh 'GIGOlETTE' a-twitter if she were to be air," I' A n n a Karenma." De- N asked how she achieves that Bob Taylor, leading man in well dressed effect. Yet try asking "Times Square Lady," Is entering mands rwenty-Five Fus- Clark Gable, Bill Powell, Warner Baxter, Robert Montgomery-and his third name, as above. He had sy,Complex Ensembles. they are liable to answer succinctly, two others which proved unlucky . ••Nerts." Any actress will spend the But the third one he's keeping as it whole day in front of a camera tak- seems to be taking him places. By Rosalind Shaffer. ing fashion stills-but try to get a Francis Lederer remarked the OLLYWOOD, Cal. - [Special.] single male star to model any gar- - Greta Garbo will burst ment and he's sure to have a date to other day that, in his opinion, Bette upon her faithful but ott- go duck hunting or something. Davis In her performance in ••Of times startled public in cor- There simply aren't any " best Suzanne Choumetska Human Bondage" merited the acad- set, bustle, and other feminine acces- dressed men" in Hollywood except is prominent in the emy award for which she was not sories to charm in her next film. -
Transparent Pannier Colleen Moretz West Virginia University, [email protected]
International Textile and Apparel Association 2017: Anchored by our Past, Navigating our Future (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings Jan 1st, 12:00 AM Transparent Pannier Colleen Moretz West Virginia University, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings Moretz, Colleen, "Transparent Pannier" (2017). International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings. 28. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2017/design/28 This Event is brought to you for free and open access by the Conferences and Symposia at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. St. Petersburg, Florida 2017 Proceedings Transparent Pannier Colleen Moretz, West Virginia University, USA Keywords: Historic reference, Couture techniques, Patternmaking Contextual Review and Concept: This design is a juxtaposition of the interpretive study of eighteenth century historical fashion and contemporary ideal body image. The fashions of the eighteenth century transformed the female body into the de rigueur silhouette of the era. (Fillmer, 2010) In contrast, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in the twenty-first century fashion. (Fukai, 2012) During the 1700’s, the female body was manipulated with the use of elaborate devices, layers of understructures, and foundations to hide and alter the woman’s true physique, where now the body itself has become the fashion. Today, it is possible to transform the appearance of the body through diet, exercise, cosmetic treatment, and plastic surgery. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
Paris Fashions
Los Angeles Sunday Herald ' . \u0084••--• Jl mm mas C . PARIS FASHIONS Filmy Black Gowns, in End- less Variety, Popular This Season & <* A.T. ASHMORE. are seasons when black | and white are immensely fash- ionable, and aga Q, other seasons ' I liJlj,; l J^k *__\ BB 'BiS"^ mmmW $ l 1 W SS fcl-* \u25a0 'll WS" \u25a0 when the all bl ok and the all * THEREwhite gowns ate not nearly so smart as the colored ones. This, season, while gowns of the pastel shades j well the vivid colors are style, \u25a0'JETj Sflßj?^# _^^^^BK9 as as in \i \ r- Bv^BiWv fe »: / / fBH -r* "J&bbß *^W. H_y there are many more white and black iv- -v^^*'fl __________H^___Hrll! sf -$* / flfl -*11§*B_____bB being made than has been the case for the last few winters. And the thin black gowns are especially smart, so varied in design and texture as to make it easily : ____________________________B_ll_>*\u25a0 fix!_____> /y^' _.^_____^^^^^^BBP^^___^___B_^_____fl possible ' for the woman who prefers \ i^SS^BS mSw W2l ' s* # _\u25a0 f/ *!**!*'•» sa always to wear black to be able to have an endless variety. Voile de soie is a most popular ma- terial in the order of chiffon and mousse- line de soie, which it closely resembles la its light transparency, but, as its name in- dicates. It is silky and more lustrous. It is lki_P9« IBPfl^BH^V^__/X^ll«0/^/^_^^^ H» F^fr-"?'* flflfli H3Aftjftfa: Jmß a most exquisite fabric, and whether plain or embroidered works out well In any of the present models in afternoon or evening gowns, although it is a ma- terial that seems far better suited to summer than to winter wear. -
HMS Pinafore Costume Rental
HMS Pinafore Costume Rental Production Information: Set Designer: Gary Eckhart Scene Shop: TCO [email protected] Costume Designer: Stephen Dell’Aversano Costume Shop: TCO [email protected] Costume Rental Costs: + Each Principal Costume: $ 115.00 Each Adult Chorus Costume: $ 100.00 Designer Royalty: 10% Costume Damage Deposit*: $ 1,000.00 There is a 3% surcharge if rental is paid with a credit card. Universities receive a 10% discount *Damage deposits will be returned less material and labor to repair any damage incurred during the use of the set or costumes. +To ensure the proper fit of the costumes rented, it is imperative that all measurements be sent to our costumer on the enclosed standardized sheets! Please do not use any of the measurement sheets/forms other than the one provided. All measurements are due a minimum of five weeks prior to shipment (not production) date so that we may prepare your rental properly and ensure your receipt of same in a timely fashion. TCO specializes in hard to fit sizes; any questions or special requests should be directed to our Costume Department. Insurance: The renting company must supply Tri-Cities Opera with a Certificate of Insurance for: Costumes $18,000.00 In addition, the Renting Company must have proper Comprehensive General Liability Insurance, Workman’s Compensation, and Employer’s Liability Insurance and shall name TCO as “sole insured and beneficiary” for the rental period. IMPORTANT NOTE: Tri-Cities Opera requests the return of all production materials within 30 days of the final performance. Payments of $100.00 will be required for any or all materials not returned within this time period. -
Historic Medical Perspectives of Corseting and Two Physiologic Studies with Reenactors Colleen Ruby Gau Iowa State University
Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Retrospective Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 1998 Historic medical perspectives of corseting and two physiologic studies with reenactors Colleen Ruby Gau Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd Part of the Home Economics Commons, Women's History Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Gau, Colleen Ruby, "Historic medical perspectives of corseting and two physiologic studies with reenactors " (1998). Retrospective Theses and Dissertations. 11922. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd/11922 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Retrospective Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UME films the t®ct directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. -
It's All in the Details: Making an Early 19Th Century Ball Gown by Hope Greenberg
It's All in the Details: Making an early 19th Century Ball Gown By Hope Greenberg In 1775, the year of Jane Austen’s birth, women wore gowns with a fitted bodice, the waist at or below the natural waistline, and full skirts over a visible, often ornate, petticoat. They were made in a variety of heavy silks, cotton or wool. By the time she had reached her late teens the ornate gowns were being replaced by simple, lightweight, often sheer cotton or silk gowns that reflected the ideals of classicism. This guide provides images and details to consider when creating an early 19th century ballgown. The examples provide a general guide, not an exact historic timeline. Fashion is flexible: styles evolve and are adopted at a different pace depending on the wearer's age, location, and economic or social status. These examples focus on evening or ball gowns. Day dresses, walking dresses, and carriage dresses, while following the same basic silhouettes, have their own particular design details. Even evening gowns or opera gowns can usually be distinguished from ball gowns which, after all, must be designed for dancing! By focusing on the details we can see both the evolution of fashion for this period and how best to re-create it. What is the cut of the bodice, the sleeve length, or the height of the bustline? How full is the skirt, and where is that fullness? What colors are used? What type of fabric? Is there trim? If so, how much, what kind, and where is it placed? Based on the shape of the gown, what can we tell about the foundation garments? Paying attention to all these details will help you create a gown that is historically informed as well as beautiful. -
Read Excerpt
FEIWEL AND FRIENDS NEW YORK 105-80012_ch01_3P.indd 5 10/4/19 12:31 PM A FEIWEL AND FRIENDS BOOK An imprint of Macmillan Publishing Group, LLC 120 Broadway, New York, NY 10271 THE SHADOWS BETWEEN US. Copyright © 2020 by Tricia Levenseller. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. Our books may be purchased in bulk for promotional, educational, or business use. Please contact your local bookseller or the Macmillan Corporate and Premium Sales Department at (800) 221- 7945 ext. 5442 or by email at MacmillanSpecialMarkets@macmillan . com. Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Names: Levenseller, Tricia, author. Title: The shadows between us / Tricia Levenseller. Description: First edition. | New York : Feiwel and Friends, 2020. | Summary: Eighteen- year- old Alessandra Stathos, the second daughter of a minor nobleman, makes a plan to seduce, marry, and kill the king, then rule the world, and only love can stop her. Identifiers: LCCN 2019018601 | ISBN 9781250189967 (hardcover) Subjects: | CYAC: Fantasy. | Ambition— Fiction. | Kings, queens, rulers, etc.— Fiction. | Love— Fiction. Classification: LCC PZ7.1.L4858 Sh 2020 | DDC [Fic]— dc23 LC record available at https:// lccn . loc . gov / 2019018601 Book design by Liz Dresner Feiwel and Friends logo designed by Filomena Tuosto First edition, 2020 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 fiercereads . com 105-80012_ch01_3P.indd 6 10/4/19 12:31 PM For Becki I can’t think of anyone more deserving of this Slytherin romance. Thanks for reading it first! IT’S COOL NOT GROWING OLD. I LIKE BEING THE ETERNAL STUD. — Damon Salvatore, The Vampire Diaries, Season 1, Episode 4 105-80012_ch01_3P.indd 7 10/4/19 12:31 PM 1 hey’ve never found the body of the first and only boy who broke my heart.