Victorian - Edwardian - WW I
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500 Years of Filipina Fashion
500 YEARS OF FILIPINA FASHION 2020 Asian Pacific Heritage Month 500 Years of Filipina Fashion By: Charity Bagatsing Doyl Research for this presentation includes: The Boxer Codex Emma Helen Blair’s The Philippine Islands 1493-1898 William Henry Scott’s Barangay Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation The Henry Otley Beyer Library Collection Thank You Dean Cameron, DaShond Bedford and Spokane Public Library. They do not however on this account go naked, they wear well made collarless robes which reach the ankles and are of cotton bordered with colors. When they are mourning, these robes are white. They take off this robes in their houses, and in places where garments are unnecessary. But everywhere and always they are very attentive to cover their persons with great care and modesty. Wherein they are superior to other nations, especially to the Chinese.” Father Chirino - Relacion de las Islas Filipinas 1602 One of the earliest records of Philippine fashions comes from the 16th century manuscript known as the Boxer Codex. 15th century Filipinos were described to wear stylish and lavishly beaded clothing from only the best and most expensive materials available at that time. In 1591, the Chinese merchants sold over 200,000 robes of cotton and silk up and down the islands. This shopping spree caused such an alarm to the Spanish regime because chiefs and slaves wore the same extravagant silk and lavishly beaded outfits, making it impossible to judge their rank from their dress. Another concern was the exorbitant amount of money Filipinos spent on their clothes, which the colonizers maintained should go to the Spanish treasury instead of the pockets of the Chinese traders. -
Glossary of Sewing Terms
Glossary of Sewing Terms Judith Christensen Professional Patternmaker ClothingPatterns101 Why Do You Need to Know Sewing Terms? There are quite a few sewing terms that you’ll need to know to be able to properly follow pattern instructions. If you’ve been sewing for a long time, you’ll probably know many of these terms – or at least, you know the technique, but might not know what it’s called. You’ll run across terms like “shirring”, “ease”, and “blousing”, and will need to be able to identify center front and the right side of the fabric. This brief glossary of sewing terms is designed to help you navigate your pattern, whether it’s one you purchased at a fabric store or downloaded from an online designer. You’ll find links within the glossary to “how-to” videos or more information at ClothingPatterns101.com Don’t worry – there’s no homework and no test! Just keep this glossary handy for reference when you need it! 2 A – Appliqué – A method of surface decoration made by cutting a decorative shape from fabric and stitching it to the surface of the piece being decorated. The stitching can be by hand (blanket stitch) or machine (zigzag or a decorative stitch). Armhole – The portion of the garment through which the arm extends, or a sleeve is sewn. Armholes come in many shapes and configurations, and can be an interesting part of a design. B - Backtack or backstitch – Stitches used at the beginning and end of a seam to secure the threads. To backstitch, stitch 2 or 3 stitches forward, then 2 or 3 stitches in reverse; then proceed to stitch the seam and repeat the backstitch at the end of the seam. -
General Information
General Information: Summer dresses, made from lightweight fabric like silk organza or printed cotton, were popular during the time of the early bustle era from 1869-1876 for excursions to the sea or sporting activities like tennis. Hence the name “seaside costume” comes. Beside strong and light colors also striped fabrics were popular. Striped fabric often was cut on the bias for ruches and decorations to create lovely patterns. At the beginning of the era skirts were supported by smaller crinolines with an additional bustle at the back. At the middle of the seventies the crinoline was displaced by the actual tournure or “Cul de Paris”. Information’s about the sewing pattern: A seam allowance of 5/8” (1,5cm) is included, except other directions directly on the sewing pattern. Transfer all marks carefully when cutting the fabric. Pleas always do a mockup first. To get the desired shape the dress should be worn over a corset and suitable underpinnings. The dress is intended to be worn for more sporting activities, so it is designed to be worn over a small to a medium size bustle pad. If you want to wear the dress over a small crinoline or a larger bustle you have to spread the back width of the skirt to the hip era. Plan to make two or three pleats into the skirt gore #2 and #3 at the hip section. The front waist piece and the front apron are cut as one piece, at the side and the back the apron pieces are sewn on and folded into regular pleats at the back. -
Rando – Introducing the World's First Ski Suit in 3-Layer Gore-Tex® Active
Press release February 2013 Rando – introducing the world’s first ski suit in 3-layer Gore-Tex® Active Perhaps the secret of Randonée lies in the contrast of struggling up the mountain only to later enjoy the ride down. Perhaps it is the science of finding snow that no one else has broken before. Or perhaps just to enjoy the vast landscape. Regardless of the reason, the activity places special demands on the equipment. For the 2013 winter season Haglöfs is introducing a new extensive collection for skiers who want to explore far away from the lift system and pistes. All of these products, which are gathered under the RANDO family, were developed with a focus on safety and being able to quickly and easily adapt the clothing based on changing weather conditions or whether you are headed up or down the mountain. One of this year’s big releases is RANDO AS SUIT – the world’s first ski suit in 3-layer Gore-Tex® Active. During its product development stage, Haglöfs focused on taking advantage of the properties of Gore’s Active technology in order to be able to offer the lightest and the most comfortable, waterproof and breathable skiing garment on the market. RANDO AS SUIT has an unembellished design, but with all of the product features a skier would expect, such as a helmet-compatible, adjustable 3-way hood, a DWR-treated outer surface and pockets strategically placed so that they are accessible even when carrying a backpack. The suit also has long, reinforced and waterproof zippers at the armpits and along the thighs in order to maximize ventilation. -
Cotehardie Construction from Extant Pieces
Cotehardie Construction from Extant Pieces Mistress Mairghead de Chesholme [email protected] Mka Jacquelyne Aubuchon Uppsala gown reconstruction http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_13.htm Very few examples of clothing from the High Middle Ages have survived to the present day. Of those garments, even fewer are available for study to the amateur costumer. Marc Carlson’s website “Some Clothing of the Middle Ages” provides an invaluable resource for the costumer to find garments with which to make comparisons. For this examination, I have selected five garments for comparison. These garments include the Soderkoping kirtle, Herjolfnes No. 42, Herjolfnes No. 39, Herjolfnes No. 38, and the Uppsala gown. The Herjolfnes garments immediately precede the cotehardie in fashion, but are not necessarily cotes. What they show is a continuity of cut and style that can arguably be carried over to application in construction of cotehardies. For example, think of a man’s dress shirt. Envision the places where the seams lie on a modern shirt. One hundred years ago, the technology was radically different, but the seams will correspond on a man’s shirt from the 1800’s. Clothing construction is constantly tweaked, skirts get longer and shorter, dresses range from fitted to volumous, but the basic lines for seams remain the same. By utilizing what is known on the above five garments one can reasonably reproduce a cotehardie using a pattern that would have been plausible at the time. Soderkoping Kirtle http://personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/soder.html The first garment and most degraded of the five is the Soderkoping kirtle. -
Diana's Favorite Things
Diana’s Favorite Things By Trail End State Historic Site Curator Dana Prater; from Trail End Notes, March 2000 “Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes ... “ Although we didn’t find a blue satin sash, we recently discovered something even better. While cataloging items from the Manville Kendrick Estate collection, we had the pleasure of examining some fantastic dresses that belonged to Manville’s wife, Diana Cumming Kendrick. Fortunately for us, Diana saved many of her favorite things, and these dresses span almost sixty years of fashion history. Diana Cumming (far right) and friends, c1913 (Kendrick Collection, TESHS) Few things reveal as much about our personalities and lifestyles as our clothing, and Diana Kendrick’s clothes are no exception. There are two silk taffeta party dresses dating from around 1914-1916 and worn when Diana was a young teenager. The pink one is completely hand sewn and the rounded neckline and puffy sleeves are trimmed with beaded flowers on a net background. Pinked and ruched fabric ribbons loop completely around the very full skirt, which probably rustled delightfully when she danced. The pale green gown consists of an overdress with a shorter skirt and an underdress - almost like a slip. The skirt of the slip has the same pale green fabric and extends out from under the overskirt. Both skirt layers have a scalloped hem. A short bertha (like a stole) is attached at the back of the rounded neckline and wraps around the shoulders, repeating the scalloped motif and fastening at the front. This dress even includes a mini-bustle of stiff buckram to add fullness in the back. -
BELT RAILWAY of CHICAGO Special Instructions
BELT RAILWAY OF CHICAGO Special Instructions General Code Operating Rules 5th Edition Applies Maximum Speed A “Dimensional Load” is any load with a width of 11 Maximum speed permitted on BRC is 25 MPH feet 0 inches to 11 feet 6 inches as noted on the unless otherwise restricted. train consist. If a train has a dimensional load, the Conductor must advise the Dispatcher prior to Maximum speed must be maintained to the extent moving the train. possible, consistent with safety and efficiency. Crew members are responsible for knowing, maintaining, If a conductor has a dimensional load and has and not exceeding maximum speed for their train. received “pink message” notification of an Unnecessary delays must be avoided. excessive dimension load on another train that their Chicago Operating Rules Association (CORA) train may meet or pass, the conductor must notify Operating Guide the train dispatcher before moving the train. Employees operating in the Chicago Terminal District are required to have a current copy of the The Conductor must notify other crew members of CORA guide available for reference while on duty. the presence of both excessive dimension loads BRC Rules govern except as modified in the and dimensional loads before movement. CORA. 1.37 Maximum Gross Weight Limit 1.36 Shipments of Excessive Height / Width Maximum gross weight limitation is 143 Tons. The following classes of equipment are covered by Work equipment, cars, or platforms (other than 6 instructions from the BRC Clearance Bureau via a axle passenger cars and 6 axle locomotive cranes) “Pink Message” authority: with a gross weight greater than the route’s approved limit must not be moved over structures • Excessive dimensional loads unless authorized by the Engineering Department • Shipments including idler cars or cleared by clearance Bureau. -
2000 Proceedings Cincinnati, OH
Cincinnati, OH USA 2000 Proceedings DOGWOOD IN GREEN AND GOLD Tammy Abbey Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA 98926 The purpose in creating this piece is to design an elegant garment through the combination of two very different techniques, metalsmithing and sewing. This design was inspired by extensive study in both metalworking and sewing and by blooming dogwood. The garment can be described as a dark green, fully lined dress in a polyester crepe satin. It is designed with princess lines and a gold charmeuse godet in the back. The dress is strapless and supported by the metal "lace." The "lace" is formed with brass blossoms and leaves that wrap the shoulders and overlap the front and the back of the dress. Brass blossoms also accent the godet. Construction began with an original pattern which was hand drafted. A muslin test garment was sewn, fitted and used to adjust the pattern. The main body of the dress was sewn and an invisible zipper was installed. A godet was sewn into the back. A polyester lining was sewn and then added to the dress. After the body of the dress was completed, the metal work began. Blossoms and leaves were cut from sheet brass. Then each was individually chased (hand shaped with the use of hammers and tools.) The pieces were given a copper patina (coloring) and brass brushed to a matte golden color. A dress form was used to assemble a base web of brass chain onto which the blossoms were sewn into place with thread and wire. Two blossoms and chain were added in the back to accent the godet and to contain it. -
C U R R I C U L U M G U I
C U R R I C U L U M G U I D E NOV. 20, 2018–MARCH 3, 2019 GRADES 9 – 12 Inside cover: From left to right: Jenny Beavan design for Drew Barrymore in Ever After, 1998; Costume design by Jenny Beavan for Anjelica Huston in Ever After, 1998. See pages 14–15 for image credits. ABOUT THE EXHIBITION SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film presents Cinematic The garments in this exhibition come from the more than Couture, an exhibition focusing on the art of costume 100,000 costumes and accessories created by the British design through the lens of movies and popular culture. costumer Cosprop. Founded in 1965 by award-winning More than 50 costumes created by the world-renowned costume designer John Bright, the company specializes London firm Cosprop deliver an intimate look at garments in costumes for film, television and theater, and employs a and millinery that set the scene, provide personality to staff of 40 experts in designing, tailoring, cutting, fitting, characters and establish authenticity in period pictures. millinery, jewelry-making and repair, dyeing and printing. Cosprop maintains an extensive library of original garments The films represented in the exhibition depict five centuries used as source material, ensuring that all productions are of history, drama, comedy and adventure through period historically accurate. costumes worn by stars such as Meryl Streep, Colin Firth, Drew Barrymore, Keira Knightley, Nicole Kidman and Kate Since 1987, when the Academy Award for Best Costume Winslet. Cinematic Couture showcases costumes from 24 Design was awarded to Bright and fellow costume designer acclaimed motion pictures, including Academy Award winners Jenny Beavan for A Room with a View, the company has and nominees Titanic, Sense and Sensibility, Out of Africa, The supplied costumes for 61 nominated films. -
Get a Taste of Theatre Design with Our Newest Series: the Old Globe Coloring Book! Every Thursday, We'll Post a New Page Featu
Get a taste of theatre design with our newest series: The Old Globe Coloring Book! Every Thursday, we’ll post a new page featuring an original design for costumes, sets, or props from past Globe shows. Along the way, you’ll be treated to design insight from artisans who brought these ideas to life. Color them in however you want (creativity welcome!), and post on your social media and tag @theoldglobe and #globecoloringbook. The following Tuesday, we’ll post some of our favorites, along with the designer’s original rendering and a photo of the final design onstage. It’s time for your vision to take the spotlight! Hamlet: Laertes, a young lord Dashing in a velvet cloak and cap, a richly textured houndstooth doublet (jacket) and breeches (calf length trousers). Cap is decorated with ostrich plumes, often placed on the left side of the cap leaving the right sword arm free to fight. A sword was an essential part of a gentlemen’s dress in the 17th century. Hamlet: In this 2007 production of Hamlet, the costumes were made from silk and wool fabrics in the shades of pale grey. In contrast, the main character, Hamlet, wore both a black and a scarlet suede doublet and breeches. The ladies were dressed in long sumptous gowns with corsets and padded petticoats. Sword fighting and scheming was afoot under the stars on the magical outdoor Lowell Davies Festival Stage. Familiar: Anne, eccentric aunt from Zimbabwe Costumed in grand style in a long colorful floral cotton skirt, blouse with large sleeve ruffles, and matching headdress. -
GLAMOUR Create a Custom Dress with Extra Flare
Godet GLAMOUR Create a custom dress with extra flare BY THE THREADS EDITORS godet is a triangular wedge of fabric sewn into a gar- ment, either in an existing seam or within a cut A opening. Its purpose is to add circumference, or are, at a hemline. With godets, you can achieve a body-skimming t through the bodice and hips and fullness around the hem. Godets cre- ate a pretty silhouette and enhance movement in a skirt or dress. ey require precise stitching, but there is a foolproof method that relies on fusible tape to install the in-seam variety. To learn the technique, try making the dress shown with six in-seam godets. A template for the design, in six sizes for bust mea- surements from 30 inches to 52 inches, is available at readsMagazine.com. Once you know the godet insertion technique, you can easily apply the method to tunic, skirt, or dress projects. Fusible tape simplifies sewing godets in shifty fabrics like burn-out velvet. 36 THREADS T211_CU_Godets.indd 36 7/23/20 1:24 PM FABRIC OPTIONS Godets are shown to advantage in light- weight, drapey fabrics. In a owing textile, a godet hangs beautifully when still, and Add godets in the seams for greater swings out gracefully when the body circumference at the hem. This simple is in motion. Sti or crisp textiles design is adaptable to any figure type. create pronounced angular exten- Fabric: burn-out velvet, MoodFabrics.com. sions. Chi on, georgette, burn-out velvet, challis, charmeuse, or crepe are good fabric choices. -
Simplified Sewing: Hems
South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange SDSU Extension Fact Sheets SDSU Extension 1964 Simplified Sewing: Hems Cooperative Extension South Dakota State University Follow this and additional works at: https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact Recommended Citation South Dakota State University, Cooperative Extension, "Simplified Sewing: Hems" (1964). SDSU Extension Fact Sheets. 865. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact/865 This Fact Sheet is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in SDSU Extension Fact Sheets by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. .. ... -~--- - --v · . --,-.-.- , -. ·. ..•, .. ·'··· .••,.,. - .t:\. --(. ......., • ... ·\•i• ....,.,•-•1•,··...- .,.. "\' ·,- • • • -:\. -: ·):.~\:,..,:}:,:.·,:,..,:;:,:.~:,-:-,:.0:.- ·,~\:,.!;;;; ··:,:.\!.t:,-;..:,t;.,:,:,:.i:1:,:.'.:.•; .-·F_:,~::::_:.~:~~~~~;.:::z~:;:'.·---~-~;:~~L ::·.1~~~~1::.:;.:_;~~: File Copy FS244 THE l-lE~I of your dress can have the "professional - Wearer should stand in a natural position with look" or the "homemade look." In general, the best arms at sides and weight on both feet. hem is the least conspicuous, and every step in making a hem is planned with this in mind There are several methods of marking a hem. You may use any one of these: The professional touch is recognize-cl by the follow- ing characteristics: Various types of chalk markers or pin markers - Inconspicuous from the right side Yardstick - Even distance from the floor Tailor's square. - Wide enough for good proportion and to gi\.re With some of these you can mark enough weight to hang well your own hem; others require a - Even in width help«.