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GLAMOUR Create a Custom Dress with Extra Flare

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GLAMOUR Create a Custom Dress with Extra Flare Godet GLAMOUR Create a custom dress with extra flare BY THE THREADS EDITORS godet is a triangular wedge of fabric sewn into a gar- ment, either in an existing seam or within a cut A opening. Its purpose is to add circumference, or are, at a hemline. With godets, you can achieve a body-skimming t through the bodice and hips and fullness around the hem. Godets cre- ate a pretty silhouette and enhance movement in a skirt or dress. ey require precise stitching, but there is a foolproof method that relies on fusible tape to install the in-seam variety. To learn the technique, try making the dress shown with six in-seam godets. A template for the design, in six sizes for bust mea- surements from 30 inches to 52 inches, is available at readsMagazine.com. Once you know the godet insertion technique, you can easily apply the method to tunic, skirt, or dress projects. Fusible tape simplifies sewing godets in shifty fabrics like burn-out velvet. 36 THREADS T211_CU_Godets.indd 36 7/23/20 1:24 PM FABRIC OPTIONS Godets are shown to advantage in light- weight, drapey fabrics. In a owing textile, a godet hangs beautifully when still, and Add godets in the seams for greater swings out gracefully when the body circumference at the hem. This simple is in motion. Sti or crisp textiles design is adaptable to any figure type. create pronounced angular exten- Fabric: burn-out velvet, MoodFabrics.com. sions. Chi on, georgette, burn-out velvet, challis, charmeuse, or crepe are good fabric choices. GLAMOUR For design interest, try mixing fabrics when adding godets. Another option is to cut them on the bias or cross-grain, for spectacu- lar results in striped or plaid material. DESIGN PROPORTIONS A godet is shaped like a slice of pizza, and depending on the project, you may decide on a di erent portion. How long a godet is, and its width at the hem, is up to you. It’s generally attering to keep bulk to a minimum around the waist, so consider placing the godet point at or below the high hip. e example dress has godets that begin about 20 inches below the shoulder seam, and the placement is adjust- able when you work with the pattern template. e godet width depends on the fabric you’ve chosen and the garment silhouette you wish to achieve. One way to get an idea of how much are to add is to measure the hem circumference of a favorite dress or full skirt in your closet. However you decide to customize the pattern, the construction process is easy, and the nished dress is versatile. Enjoy web extra playing with godets. For a pattern template you can adapt to your fi gure, visit ThreadsMagazine.com/GodetDressPattern. is article was adapted from “Waiting For Godet,” by Louise Cutting in Quick Stu to Fusible tape Sew Winter 2011. simplifies sewing godets in shifty fabrics like burn-out velvet. www.threadsmagazine.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2020 37 T211_CU_Godets.indd 37 7/23/20 1:22 PM Personalize the design This dress has simple lines to show the godets to advantage. It has cut-on short sleeves, shoulder seams, and an oval neckline that is fin- ished with a bias binding. Vertical seams and side seams provide trouble-free insertion places for the godets. The three-piece pattern is adaptable to your size and height. Determine the dress cutting length. Find the template at Threads Place the stitch termination 1 Measure from the shoulder at your 3 Magazine.com/GodetDressPattern, 4 points for the godets. On the neckline, over your bust, to the length you and select a size. Use the largest of example pattern, the godets were prefer for the finished dress. Add 2 inches for your bust, waist, or hip circumference planned to end about 20 inches the hem allowance. Note: It is better to make measurements to select the correct below the shoulder seam. This is the garment longer and trim to the desired pattern size. Enlarge the pattern an average measurement, planned length when completed. as directed. From the shoulder to hit at the high-hip level. If your line, extend the front hem to the measurements had the godets end desired dress cutting length. The at a higher or lower point, mark a 1 Plan the placement of the godet point. pattern includes ⁄2-inch-wide seam new stitch termination point on 2 Still holding the measuring tape at your allowances, except where noted. the front/back pattern piece. Copy shoulder, note the level for the godet point. it to the side panel pattern piece. Place it below your waistline for a flattering silhouette. On the pattern pieces, this will be labeled the stitch termination point. Shoulder at Stitch the neckline termination point SIDE FRONT/ PANEL BACK PANEL Cut 4. Cut 2 on the GODET fold. Shoulder to godet point Waistline level Godet point Cut 6. Godet point Stitch Godet point to hem termination For all sizes; modify as needed. points Adjust the godet pattern if necessary. Align the godet pattern piece to the dress 5 front/back pattern piece, matching the stitch termination points. Lengthen or shorten the godet pattern piece to match the dress cutting length. You can narrow or widen the godet as well. The sample godets add up to nearly a full circle. Cut out the dress. The fabric amount required depends on the size and length 6 of your personalized design and the yardage width. A quick sketch on graph paper can give you an idea of the yardage your pattern pieces require. Be sure to 3 include ⁄8 yard to cut a bias strip for the neckline binding. Use a with-nap layout, Desired finished and cut a center front, center back, four side panels, six godets, and a bias strip. For length the bias strip’s dimensions, refer to step 1 of “Finish the neckline,” p. 40. 38 THREADS T211_CU_Godets.indd 38 7/23/20 1:21 PM Assemble the dress Install the godets the quick way Sew together the panels that form the dress bod- Fusible web tape is the secret to an easy, accurate insertion. Press each ice. The lower portion of each panel seam is left stitched godet before starting the next one. open to install the godets. Place one godet right side Pin and sew each 1 up on the ironing board. 1 center panel to its Pin-mark a stitch termination corresponding side point at the top of the godet panels. Sew with so it is visible on the fabric’s right sides together, Panel right side. Finger-press 1 Stitch 2 seam and use a ⁄ -inch- termination a strip of fusible tape Fusible tape wide seam allowance. point along the godet’s GODET (RS) Stop stitching at the seam allowance. stitch termination Press lightly with a Stitch points on each seam, steam iron; remove the termination leaving long thread PANEL (WS) paper backing. point tails. Pull the upper thread to the bobbin side and knot the tails together. Place a dress seam over the Stitch 2 godet. Match the stitch termination termination points on the point Sew the shoulder seams, then the side seams. 2 Stitch from the sleeve edge to the stitch dress and godet. Align the termination point. Tie the thread tails. Stitch the dress seam allowances with PANEL (RS) underarm a second time to reinforce the seam. the seamlines of the godet, just covering the fusible tape. WS GODET (RS) Stitch termination Press to fuse the godet to point 3 the dress. Take care that the fabric does not shift. Work with a press cloth in a sheer Place the panels over the fusible tape. Strengthen the material, such as silk organza. underarm seam with a second stitching pass. Once the godet is in place, edgestitch along the Press open the seam allowances along the seam. 4 PANEL (RS) 3 Then press them open all the way to the hem. pressed-under seam allowance. Stitch from the right side, and Stitch along the from the hem to the godet godet sides in point. Pivot at the point and one pass. stitch down the PANEL (WS) Hem other diagonal edge side to the hem. GODET (RS) Edgestitching Stitch Press the seam allowances termination open the length of point the panels. www.threadsmagazine.com T211_CU_Godets.indd 39 7/23/20 1:25 PM Finish the neckline A double-layer, or French, bias binding conforms to the curved neckline. It is easy to sew with the aid of fusible tape. Press the bias strip away from the dress. Press the seamline Cut a bias strip the length of the 5 only, and make sure the iron never touches the fold. 1 neckline circumference. You’ll stretch the strip slightly as you sew. BIAS STRIP Make it seven times the desired finished width. In this case, for a 5 3 2- ⁄8 inches ⁄8-inch wide finished binding, the 5 strip is 2 ⁄8 inches wide. BIAS STRIP Fold Seam DRESS FRONT (WS) Fold the strip in 2 half lengthwise, wrong sides together, but don’t Align and pin the raw edges. press it. Starting at the center back, Wrap the binding around the raw edge of the neckline. Fold align the strip’s BIAS BINDING 6 it toward the right side, just covering the row of stitching. raw edges to the neckline on the wrong side and pin DRESS BACK (WS) it in place. Wrap the bias binding over the neckline seam allowances to the right side.
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