Adding Godets to the Sun

1. Front/Back. Take the dress F/B pattern, and lay on a fresh piece of , trace the , bottom and sides exactly the same. At the centre front/back line (were the fold would be) add ¼ inch, for a allowance. Draw in your grainline, having it run parallel to the CF/CB. 2. Triangle for the godets. Draw a horizontal line, the width that you would like the bottom of the . At the exactly centre point of the line, draw a perpendicular line, the length you would like the godet + ½ inch. Join the top of the centre line to the ends of the horizontal line, creating the triangle. The vertical line is your grainline. 3. On your F/B panel, mark where the top of the godet will line up, using the length of the grainline as a guide.

4. out your F/B panels x 4, and godets x 4.

Assembly 1. Take one F/B dress panel and a godet, and up the edges, in place, right sides together. 2. a ¼ inch seam.

3. Press the seam towards the godet.

4. Take the matching F/B dress panel, and lining up the hem edges, pin in place right sides together. 5. Take care when matching the edges, is to encourage a gentle fold in the F/B panel, at the point where the panel joins the godet, so that the seams can roughly align. 6. 7. Once sewing, check that the top of the godet is stitched (no hole) and then press to one side. 8. Insert a godet into the other F/B panel, creating a front and back piece.

9. Take the front dress panel, and add a godet to each side seam, stitching with a ¼ inch seam. 10. Line up the back dress panel, and stitch a ¼ inch seam. 11. Continue the dress, as per the normal pattern instructions.

Note: This tutorial gives you a dress, with 4 godets, 1 each at the centre front, centre back and each side seam.

Alternatively, you could spin the tube around, having two seams running down the front and back (like ) either side of the centre front and back, and no side seams. This puts two godets on the front and back.