Guide HOW TO BE A BETTER DRESSED MAN A Condé Nast Special Edition Contributors Lalima Tran, Mia Wustefeld. Greg Schuler, Amy Ted Klein, with along copyediting, the Vitale Laura Parish Richdale, Andrew text. with in chipped and editing with deal Welch Will to. supposed they’re like looked images the sure Meneely Timothy and issue, the photo-edited visuals. the on us GQ’ shots. , with along director, creative it. edited ourselves). so say may we (if good damn so look thing the made Heasty David together. issue this put who folks the are Here all our facts were straight. were facts our all and Hartwell, Randy And credits. the all door. the out thing the got and s design director, guided guided director, design s Jennifer Gonzalez Jennifer Nurit Zunger Nurit Lisa Cohen Lisa Nanette Bruhn Nanette handled the interviews. the handled oversaw production production oversaw Fred Woodward, Fred called all the fashion fashion the all called and and Jim Moore, Jim helped out a great great a out helped took care of of care took Jason Chen, Chen, Jason of Triboro Design Design Triboro of Adam Rapoport Adam Domenica Domenica and and

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contents 3 9 Ties to the Seasons Seasons the to Tie Your Match and AccuWeathery All Get Sharp Looks Always Easy and Loose Why Tie Wrong Go Can’t Essential The Dorito Giant a Resemble Shouldn’t Knot Your Tailor Good a to Thee Get Shape Your to How Cuff to Not or Cuff To Points Finer the Nail Up? It Step Wanna Fit About It’s Ever, Than More Like Looks Man Suited Century Twenty-first- the What 3 4 11

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● SUITS suits 1 Looks Looks Like Suited Man Century Twenty-first- What the That’s the look you want. you look the That’s crafted. perfectly streamlined, and simple is suit his design, modern in best the Like one. make to hard so he’s if trying as not looking least at one—or making not by a statement together. put thoroughly is message the Instead, . four-button no , I’m-the-man no plaids, aggressive no here: what’s notice you’ll and closer a Totally. little look But details? the of elegance The Sure. suit? the of trimness The What’s secret? the man. contemporary completely a see man—you’ll sharp-dressed see a you’ll more than just and here Ventimiglia Milo out smart, confident, confident, smart, He makes makes He 3

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A TAKE IT FROM THE More Than A good suit should hug your shoulders, not Ever, It’s slouch off them. Most guys think they’re a size larger than they About Fit are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn’t fit right in the shoulders, don’t buy it.

B LOSE THE FLAB Think about the width of the sleeves. This is an obsession of ours at GQ. For pretty much every photo shoot, we have a tailor slim down the sleeves, trimming them of excess fabric. It cuts 2 a mean figure. C SHOW SOME CUFF Your suit sleeves should end just above the hinges of your wrists, so That’s our mantra here a quarter to half inch at GQ. It’s what we preach of cuff shows. It’s every issue. Doesn’t like the frame on a matter what kind of suit painting—the elegant you’re investing in, touch. whether it’s $200 or $2,000, or D TAPER, TAPER, TAPER , two-button or Your jacket should three. We’ve seen plenty contour to your body. of guys who’ve bought Have a tailor nip it the right suit and let it hang at the sides. This will off them like an NBA accentuate your rookie on draft night. And shoulders—whether we’ve seen men in cheap you’ve got strong but well-tailored suits who ones or not. look like a million bucks. The thing’s got to fit right, E BREAK IT DOWN or else there’s no point We like flat-front pants, in wearing it. Question is, cut slim, with very little what’s the right fit, break at the ankle. and how do you get it? This produces a long, clean look. Your pants should just clip the tops of your , not bunch up over them.

4 gq.com SUITS 3 ● Wanna Step It Up? Nail the Finer Points

You know how a suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? You’ve got countless options. Here are the ones that matter most, the ones that make for an infallible suit.

START WITH THE F LAPELS Nothing does more to dictate a suit’s character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It’s modern without being rock-star skinny.

GO FOR TWO G We swear by a two- button . Sure, a three-button that’s cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They’re foolproof.

H CAUSE A FLAP We like a traditional flap pocket. There’s something a bit too ’90s about those slit pockets.

I TICKET, PLEASE Ticket pocket? Sure. If you’re into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it.

J FEEL FREE TO VENT Finally, don’t ignore the back of the jacket. It plays an integral role in a suit’s character. Generally, we prefer a center vent; it’s unobtrusive and keeps the lines of the suit clean and simple. Side vents, like these here, make more of a statement. They’re a bit more...rakish.

5 gq.com GOING T O T H E 4 SOURCE

My First Suit The Keeps-on- Hand- Me-Down

KIRK MILLER Miller’s Oath, N.Y.C.

“I got this really simple two-button Slim pants call summer khaki by for deep cuffs. Go Paul Stuart that was for at least one a hand-me-down and a quarter to two inches. from Goodwill. It was beat-up, with scuffed elbows, and basically it was really badass. I must’ve worn the jacket for a year straight. It was a 37 short, which almost no one but Paul Stuart makes. It’s funny, actually, because I almost gave it away the other day—but then I thought, ‘No, no! I can’t give that away.’”

“I like cuffs on pants of back of them touches just about any fabric. the tops of your heels. To Cuff or Of course, when you’re That always works—but dealing with heavier if you know what you’re Not to Cuff corduroys and , doing, then you can play the cuffs serve a around a bit and show Designer Michael Bastian on how purpose: They give the a little ankle. Bring a pair the right call can make or break a suit pants some weight, of shoes to the tailor’s so they fall better. I say, to get the length just if you’re gonna go for right and always follow a cuff, go for it; make it that old rule ‘Measure at least an inch and a twice, cut once.’ It’s easy quarter deep. As for the to go a little shorter, break, 90 percent of but it’s impossible to go guys keep it classic, a little longer.” where the front of your pants hits the top bit of your shoes and the 6 gq.com REAL CHALLENGES, REAL SOLUTIONS How to Suit Your Shape 5

Shelly here is about five feet four and, well, not exactly runway skinny. But even without hitting the gym, he looks like a new man by choosing the right suit. Anyone who’s short or a bit heavyset should take notes. Before After

Be honest with yourself. Admit you’re short and buy short- length suits.

Always go with a six-button double-breasted, never four.

Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, Three Styles not your belly.

A lower button That Help stance creates long You Stand Out lines, essentially stretching you out.

Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms. No. 1: The New Slim, Trim Double-Breasted An overly roomy suit—even a If you want a double-breasted pricey one like suit to look modern—and not this—makes you look sloppy. like something from a gangster flick—keep it short and Avoid long suit trim. And avoid Dick Tracy– . They grade shoulder pads, too. actually make your legs look shorter. Keep the jacket buttoned (including the interior button). Excess fabric, It doesn’t hang well when especially A pant leg undone. below the knee, with very little adds pounds. break will help And unlike with single- you look taller. breasted suits, unless you want Big man, solid to look like a singer in an ’80s . Choose R&B band, go for a higher-cut shoes that have six-button suit instead of a a substantial low-slung four-button model. sole. You need something solid to anchor your weight.

7 gq.com SUITS

6 ● Get Thee to a Good Tailor It’s the Wisest Money You’ll Ever Spend THE My First Suit ESSENTIAL The Green Monster CAN’T-

NICK CAVE GO-WRONG GRAY TWO- BUTTON “The first suit I ever bought was from a SUIT secondhand place in New York when I was on tour there in the early ’80s. It was three pieces, lime green The right tailor can make a $100 suit with an orange check. look like $1,000, and he can make I have no idea what it that $1,000 suit worth every penny. was made of, only that There’s not a GQ photo shoot where it melted when you we don’t enlist our tailor, Joseph, to nip, * would nod off and the tuck, and alter a suit. For your purposes, SUREFIRE the trick is knowing what needs to be cigarette would fall TIP done and then knowing how to manage on your . And your tailor. Don’t let him tell you how I was actually much of a break you want in your trousers; imprisoned in it. I was you tell him. You’re the boss. Here’s “This is basically the man’s busted buying drugs what a good tailoring job will run you. version of the little . on the Lower East Side, I call it the no-brainer suit. It and I was thrown in a works during the day; it works holding pen in this $40/Sleeves at night. It works at every ridiculous lime green Most suits are cut too full, including the occasion you’d wear a suit to. suit. And I was thinking, sleeves. Have them narrowed. It makes a But you do need to make sure Jesus, I wish it wasn’t huge difference. you’re getting the right shade lime green. And of of gray—not one that’s light course, the one other and summery, and definitely white guy in the cell $30/Cuffs not a somber charcoal. You runs up and goes, Tailors hesitate to shorten sleeves. want a gray that’s right down Be adamant—your sleeves should end ‘Fuck, it’s Nick Cave!’ the middle. When in doubt, at the break of your wrists. And what’s more, we wear it with a white shirt and had a gig that night. dark solid tie and you’re always We were staying at the going to be the best-dressed $35/Body guy in the room.” Iroquois hotel, and Jackets need to be brought in at the , when the sergeant said, to create that V effect. JIM MOORE, GQ creative director ‘Nick Cave, c’mon, make your phone call,’ I asked him to call $35/Pants the Iroquois. And he Have your pants slimmed a pinch says, ‘Can you spell from top to bottom. Then shorten them. that?’ And I’m like, The narrower the pant leg, the less ‘I...R...’ ‘Nope! Next!’ So break you need. I was there for three days, and I missed the shows, sitting there in my lime green suit.”

8 gq.com III Go ahead and throw on a tie. Feel the difference? It’s a small thing, but small things are the point. When you’re sporting a tie, you can pretty much stroll in anywhere you want; it’s like an Admirals Club card that you wear on the outside. Whether you’re suiting up for the office or laying out a look for the evening, a tie allows you to pull together the disparate elements of your Every tie benefits from a wardrobe with a taut knot and touch of texture or deep dimple. complementary color. If you learn to do it 1 correctly—balance the width of the tie against your lapels and shirt collar, find a knot that fits your face—you’ll Your Knot Shouldn’t have dressing right all tied up. Resemble a Giant Dorito

Do you want a knot You really need to the size of a P’Zone, know only one like Stuart Scott knot—the four-in- on ESPN? No, you hand. It’s neither don’t. So go ahead too big nor too small and ignore the nor too perfectly half Windsor, triangular. It’s natural the Prince Albert, and elegant, and the Super-duper it works with every Double Elliott, collar, from a spread and all those other to a point. Learn knots you find in it, never forget it, sartorial guidebooks. always use it.

Love Your Dimple: The Secret Tie Weapon

“Yes, a snugly knotted against your index tie will look perfectly finger just beneath fine without one,” says the knot, so the GQ senior fashion fabric forms a crease. editor Lisa Cohen. “But 2 Pull down the the dimple’s the narrow end of the tie finishing touch that to tighten the dimple, pulls it all together. We and slide up the knot. consider it essential.” 3 Finesse either Here’s how to take side of the dimple to your look from accentuate the fold passable to polished. and set it in place. Pinch and 1 When you’re almost pull. You’ve done tying your tie, got a press your thumb dimple. ties

9 gq.com 3 TIMELESS STYLE Why Loose and Easy Always Looks Sharp

Seems like half the covers we shoot, our guy has his tie undone. It’s one of those not-trying-at-all looks that actually take some trying. You don’t want to resemble some broker who just lost a million bucks in the last twenty minutes. So stick with a slim, cool-guy tie—not a honking power tie. A little scruff always helps. It’s the grooming equivalent of a loosened knot. And get the shirt right. A washed and worn is your easiest option. But if you do go with a pressed shirt, keep it understated. Avoid those Euro ones with the stiff oversize collars; there’s nothing easy and relaxed about them.

A B C D E

WOOL SOLID BLACK PIN-DOT CLUB REPP In the middle of For formalwear Like a polka-dot, Any tie with a Still a Capitol Hill winter, you’ll want occasions, for a but much smarter repeating logo. staple, but now a tie to pair with gray suit with and more subtle. Once just for cut skinny for the your heavier-weight a white shirt, or for the Ivy League set, cool kids, too. suits. a leather or jean now for anyone jacket. Exceptionally with serious style. versatile.

We’re not saying The Essential you shouldn’t own more than five Can’t-Go-Wrong ties, but if you Tie Wardrobe owned only these, you’d be set for every outfit 2 and every occasion.

1 0 gq.com ● TIES 4 FORECAST S A C E R O F E L Y T S Seasons Seasons Your Tie to the and Match AccuWeathery Get All or flannel, reach reach flannel, or tweed wearing you’re if fall, tie. a with it pair suit, seersucker or khaki a sporting you’re if summer. So the in white wearing know, you like seasons— the with in fit to a as way tie your of think You should And come come And

feeling gimmicky. feeling without personality instant provide ties These spectrum. seasonal the of sides both on options of a ton offering are days these Tiemakers tie. a woolly for 1 1 Q G L A U N A M E L Y T S Fashion Credits Photography and

SUITS Illustration Credits Page 3. Suit: Armani SUITS Collezioni. Shirt: . Page 3. Nathaniel Goldberg Tie: Ralph Lauren Black Label. Pages 4–5. Eric Ray Tie bar: Gucci. Pocket square: Davidson. Hair: Jordan Robert Talbott. : Blackmore for Three Blinde. Car: Aston Martin DB9. Squares Studio. Grooming: Pages 4–5. Suit: Jodie Boland for . J.Lindeberg. Shirt: Simon Page 6. From left: Spurr. Tie: Calvin Klein Christopher Griffith; Collection. Pocket square: Alexandra Compain-Tissier Paul Stuart. : Timex. Page 7. Eric Ray Davidson Shoes: Salvatore Ferragamo. (2); Nathaniel Goldberg Page 6. Loafers: Coach. Page 8. From left: Pants: Carlos Campos. Production credits Alexandra Compain-Tissier; Page 7. Center, suit Paola Kudacki are listed only for (made-to-measure): Hickey images photographed Freeman. Shirt, pocket TIES specifically for this square, and shoes: Brooks project. Page 9. Eric Ray Davidson; Brothers. Tie: Dunhill. Brown Bird Design (9). Sunglasses: Modo for Page 10. David Rinella; NetJets. Top right, suit and Popperfoto/Getty Images; shirt: Ralph Lauren Black For David Rinella photograph, Label. Pocket square: prop stylist: Jason Gledhill for Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Halley Resources. Shoes: Church’s. Page 11. James Wojcik; Watch: Coach. Briefcase: Tom Schierlitz Ermenegildo Zegna.

TIES Page 9. Top left, shirt and tie: Emporio Armani. Page 10. Ties, from left: 1. Black Brown 1826 by Lord & Taylor. 2. Ralph Lauren Purple Label. 3. Boss Black. 4. Daniel Cremieux from Dillard’s. 5. Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Page 11. Top, ties, from left: 1. Jack Spade. 2. Richard Kidd. 3. Band of Outsiders. 4. Jack Spade. 5. Agnès B. 6. J.Crew. 7. Band of Outsiders. 8. Polo Ralph Lauren. 9. J.Crew. 10. Hickey. Bottom, ties, from left: 1. Breuer for Bergdorf Goodman. 2. Paul Stuart. 3. Joseph Abboud. 4. Armand Basi. 5. Breuer. 6. Ermenegildo Zegna. 7. Ralph Lauren Purple Label. 8. Luciano Barbera. 9. Bergdorf Goodman. index

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