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24-27 Perfume2.Indd Perfume headline Above: Property is on the up in here Monaco and Gibraltar (below) Sun here here and here always here, here here and here always here, and some more here Above: Property is on the up in Monaco and Gibraltar (below) Dior make-up – are heirs to Calandre (which is still available bottle based on a gold ingot.“I like In 2010 Paco Rabanne was Christian Dior’s perfectionism, today). Today, Rabanne is still my fragrances to be fresh first, decorated with the Legion with Charlize Theron, Natalie making waves in perfumery – with then structured, full of vibrations d’Honneur by France’s culture virile Antaeus through to the Portman and Robert Pattinson fragrances that have captured and contrasts,” says Rabanne minister, an acknowledgment of aromatic-woody blockbuster playing the perfect ‘muses’. hearts, and become global (pictured below with Veronika his work as a visionary designer Bleu de Chanel. And J’adore, an absolute blockbusters. Most notably, Jeanvie). Launched more recently, and innovative originator in the chanel.com classic in the world of fine Lady Million, with its distinctive Paco Rabanne Olympéa and world of fashion. Smell of success perfumery, continues to ‘express metal-capped bottle. The male Invictus tap into Greek Mythology pacorabanne.com We look at the history of six of the most illustrious perfume houses in the world: DIOR all the sensual intensity and solar counterpart is 1 Million, a scent for their striking imagery and Dior, Calvin Klein, Issey Miyake, Chanel, Paco Rabanne and Dolce & Gabbana The House of Dior, founded in energy of a Dior woman’ today. with tones of leather and salt in a equally eye-catching flacons. CALVIN KLEIN 1946, first unveiled its New “The world of Dior beauty With a history stretching back Look in the halls of 30 Avenue (including Perfume, Make-Up more than 135 years, PVH, Montaigne in 1947, accompanied and Skincare) is defined by an formerly known as the Phillips-Van CHANEL perfume across the globe.Beaux 1960 breathlessly proclaimed: by a fragrance, Miss Dior. This audacious spirit and an incredible Heusen Corporation, is one of the When couturier Gabrielle ‘Coco’ remained the brand’s exclusive “What do I wear in bed? Why, timeless perfume was the first savoir-faire,” says Claude largest apparel companies in Chanel launched her debut perfume designer until 1952, Chanel No5, of course.” fragrance created by this visionary Martinez, CEO and Managing the world, operating in over perfume No5, in 1921, it changed creating further landmark scents New eras and fragrances brand who can be credited with Director for Dior brands Guerlain, 40 countries with annual revenues the world of fragrance. Perfumer including Chanel No22, and a trio have ushered in since, with new the creation of ‘global beauty’ with Givenchy Parfums, Parfums Kenzo above $9bn. Among an elite Ernest Beaux produced a portfolio of fragrances which now appear in perfumers, series’, styles and its Rouge Dior and subsequent and Parfums Christian Dior. group of iconic brands, PVH owns of samples for Chanel to try – and Chanel‘s Les Exclusifs line: Cuir de looks, including Chanel‘s first cosmetic lines. dior.com Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and she chose the fifth option. Legend Russie, Gardénia men’s fragrance – Chanel Pour The current-day trustees Van Heusen. has it that Beaux (or maybe his and Bois des Îles. Monsieur – which was introduced of this legendary expertise – PACO RABANNE The Calvin Klein brand began lab assistant) put an ‘overdose’ Chanel clothes – and the in 1995, created by Henri Robert, François Demachy, Dior perfumer- Born in San Sebastian, Spanish in the late 1960s, famous for its of aldehydes in the bottle – we’ll fragrances – have been worn who took over from Ernest Beaux creator, and Peter Philips, creative Basque country, Paco Rabanne minimalism and classic style. never know if it was by accident, by stars all over the world, as in-house perfumer. and image director of Christian revolutionised the world of fashion The company’s first perfume, or design – but Chanel was though perhaps Chanel’s most Since then, an entire men’s before turning to perfume, Calvin, was launched in 1981 and seduced. No5 has since gone on glowing endorsement of all was fragrance wardrobe has been Above: Inspired by Gabrielle shaking up the scent world with Eternity was introduced in 1985 to become the most recognised from Marilyn Monroe, who in introduced, spanning leathery, Chanel, before she became Coco his 1973 daring debut fragrance, as a unisex fragrance. British ➤ 24 Upward Curve April-June 2020 April-June 2020 Upward Curve 25 Perfume Supermodel Kate Moss famously quite different altogether, billowing unveiled Obsession during the with night-blooming jasmine, same year. The brand has since tuberose and honey, created by launched a series of successful Olivier Cresp. perfumes that, for many, capture isseymiyake.com the spirit of the decades in which they were introduced, including DOLCE&GABBANA CK One and Euphoria (2005 for After making an immediate impact women, 2006 for Men). with their flashy, sexy clothing in calvinklein.com 1985, Dolce&Gabbana quickly gained fame and the loyalty of ISSEY MIYAKE high-profile celebrity customers Japanese icon Issey Miyake such as Madonna, who wears modestly calls himself a ‘clothing their fashions off-stage and designer’, rather than a ‘fashion has hired the house to design designer’, but in 1992, he costumes for her performances. released a simple, clean fragrance Its first fragrance, named in an era of heavy, pungent signature. Perfumer Aurélien with nashi, a hybrid between pear simply Dolce&Gabbana for perfumes. Aptly called ‘L’eau’, it Guichard‘s inspiration was light and apple. These meticulously Women, was launched in was pure and fresh. – so important in the world of sculpted facets are echoed in 1992 and a men’s version Miyake says, “Curiosity and Issey Miyake – and the result a the bottle – and Pleats Please followed in 1994. The brand happiness are at the core of my fragrance which opens sparklingly certainly pleased a new audience launched a series of fragrances work. Design is never static but of Issey Miyake fans. “I like the over the year, with their Light it is only possible after constant Top: Brazilian Model Gisele idea of scents but not that of Blue fragrances for men and exchanges of ideas, aesthetics Bündchen is at Saks Fifth a fragrance,” Miyake says. women being among their and sensibilities”. Avenue to unveil Dolce & “I do not possess the culture most successful. In 2013 – after a wait of Gabbana’s fragrance “The One.” of fragrance, but rather the The D&G line launched the almost 20 years – a second Above: Coco Mademoiselle is culture of scents.” Anthology series of fragrances Issey Miyake fragrance appeared a bold, fresh scent, made L’Eau d’Issey Florale in 2009, inspired by tarot cards on the scene: Pleats Please, with notes of jasmine, rose, followed; a beautiful, pale pink and advertised by some of was a counterpart to the iconic patchouli and vetiver. The fresh-floral perfume, inspired by the fashion world’s most pleated clothing which is so oriental woody fragrance recalls a budding rose. And L’Eau d’Issey famous faces. much a part of Issey Miyake’s the spirit of Chanel Absolue, meanwhile, is something dolcegabbana.com ■ April-June 2020 Upward Curve 27.
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