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Home , Chanel, Christian Dior, Coco Before Chanel, Coco Chanel, Dior, Virginie Viard

Fashion, Luxury and Heritage in the Time of COVID 19 FBS C19 Issue 9:

03.07.20

1 Buying luxury, isn’t always about being rich, or having unlimited money. Luxury is aspirational and often ethically sourced and hand crafted. It links to ‘buy better buy less’, but also to being able to trace every component required to produce the product, and every stage of its production. There are less made, and with many products they can be used for many, many years, passed on or simply resold as vintage. I have a friend who’s classic passport holder is now over a quarter of a century old, a far better investment in twenty-five years of travelling than a cheap version. Investment in is indeed an old trend, and like vintage or collectible, a description which luxury embraces. Whatever the luxury product, from a belt to a car, it’s about investing your money for a worthwhile return.

The big names of fashion, the famous, the solidly established are strong in their majestic certainty. Christian , Gabrielle ‘’ established fashion houses that we now simply call Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Cartier and a host of other names that immediately spell out luxury, quality, and heritage. For these the COVID pandemic, the lockdown and the concerns have been different, it’s less a worry and more of an interruption, as they march forward with confidence.

Gucci and Saint Laurent make statements which they know the followers of those brands and labels will simply follow and support. is starting as planned, albeit in a different format, luxury and auctions are continuing, luxury accessories are much in demand. Just as in the past people say luxury is ‘recession proof’, so it might appear that luxury is also COVID19 pandemic proof.

There are however changes afoot, and the important thing is to read, watch and learn how the top level of the fashion industry is reacting, how they’re discussing, what steps they are taking to stay at the pinnacle of the brand pyramid. In luxury the shop or franchise is only a part of the story; staff training, or the slick packaging and glossy carrier bag; every detail and component counts. The face of the brand, the celebrities in the front row, the newest fragrance, every second is calculated.

How the heritage, the rhythm they have established, continues to drive the name forward year after year after year. The role of the designer and all the marketing, PR, communications, branding, finance and CEO’s working together to ensure that the brands future is secure. This is why the musical chairs of designers is so fascinating as we see who, what and how the shift of the house style is dealt with. It remains the same but is updated, edited, re arranged and refreshed. Indeed, the change of the house designer doesn’t even always shift the sales figures by a large margin, up or down. It’s the name in the end, and often it’s bigger than the incumbent designer. Luxury is a world of its own, from a publisher like Assouline, through limited edition shoes, and bespoke tailoring, and onto couture ball gowns and private planes. At its most extraordinary it’s outside the dreams of most people, but the pieces which are accessible such as a wallet, a or a pair of , must be carefully aligned to the exclusive handmade trunk or the bespoke fragrance. It’s this balance which becomes so vital for the business and drives the communication, the ideas and level of

2 innovation. Today there are so many platforms to work with on establishing a conversation between the customer and the label. If you can access the savoire faire of the production of a single piece through YouTube, then the access to the entry price points becomes a lure to the clients. Luxury is still about selling and making money, it’s just more discrete about it and more subtle in how it persuades the customer to part with their cash.

Tony Glenville Fashion Commentator

Steven Klein for Vogue:

• https://www.bain.com/insights/luxury-after-coronavirus/

Luxury after Covid-19: Changed for (the) Good? Sales could fall up to 35% this year, but companies can still emerge stronger, more innovative and more purposeful.

3 • https://www.transformmagazine.net/articles/2020/luxury-brands-at-the-time-of- covid-19-towards-a-new-humanism/

In the next normal, commercial intent and genuine altruism will eventually balance out. But the exercise in empathy undertaken during these few months have equipped many luxury brands with the critical strategic tool to make significant strides and get traction in the post-pandemic competitive landscape.

• https://www.positiveluxury.com/blog/2020/06/15/how-the-luxury-industry-is- staying-afloat-during-covid-19/

From new digital showrooms to refreshed fashion calendars, we look at some of the ways the industry is shifting gears – and what may lie in the future.

• https://cpp-luxury.com/continued-dramatic-unfold-of-the-covid-19-pandemic- to-severely-impact-the-global-luxury-industry/

We estimate a further decline of up to 15% for the first half of 2020, considering the worsening sentiment among Asian consumers, especially , Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Only brands which have a demonstrated investment relevance are likely to perform better (ex Hermes, Chanel, Rolex, Patek Philippe)

• https://sarasotainstitute.global/the-consumer-in-the-age-of-coronavirus/

Philip Kotler is widely acknowledged as the father of modern marketing and the world’s foremost expert on strategic marketing. He was voted the first Leader in Marketing Thought by the American Marketing Association and named The Founder of Modern Marketing Management in the Handbook of Management Thinking.

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Viktor & Rolf:

Haute Couture:

The new for couture week in is starting, as each day passes, news, invitations and questions appear for the press. What we are still uncertain about is the final format. Below are the names already moving forward with confidence and creativity, and he most up to date visuals. Let’s wait and see.

Rahul Mishra:

• https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/rahul-mishra-will-return-to-the-official- couture-week-calendar-in-a-new-format

Alexandre Vauthier

Maurizio Galante

5 Save The Date:

Dear All,

I hope you’re keeping well. Please find attached the save the date for Alexis Mabille’s virtual Live show Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-21 which will be launched on Tuesday 7th, July at 1:30pm. The registration for Paris HC online professional area access is opened.

Here is the link: https://forms.office.com/Pages/ResponsePage.aspx?id=oxQM9BMp_UmwFaD5VNi93 TVq1bsPjj5ErpiJYHh6fZhURVQ4N1kzQU04NVdXMUpXVjZQNE9XVVFQRS4u

(Registering will be closed on 3rd of July) Please let me know if you have any questions. Best regards, Noriko NORIKO CHIKAMORI OBCM obcm.net

Valentino Haute Couture Announcement:

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE FW20-21 Valentino is pleased to announce that the Haute Couture Fall Winter 2020-21 collection will be presented through a special show conceived by Pierpaolo Piccioli. The Creative Director of Valentino has involved the artist Nick Knight in order to amplify human Haute Couture values through an idea where the Maison mastery will be highlighted by the digital side.

The project arises from an idea, that Pierpaolo Piccioli already had in mind before the pandemic, that merges the human and digital worlds creating a bond that is the legacy of the re- birth period we are experiencing. The limits that we are living need to be transcended through grace and lightness.

The Maison will continue to attend its appointment with the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on July 8th 2020 at 6.00 pm revealing the inspiration of the exclusive Live Performance that will take place then in on July 21st 2020 at Cinecittà Studios.

The Live Performance will bring together the human and the digital touch creating a dialogue where neither of them will take the lead. No digital effects can substitute the humanitas. The result will be the expression of the inner values of Couture: creativity, imagination and emotion.

6 The Performance will be live on digital channels and selected fashion reviewers based in the country will be invited to the event in Rome, in the respect of the current situation, following all necessary safety measures.

Viktor & Rolf Couture Show Reminder:

Hey Tony,

I hope you have been keeping well, I wanted to check in to see if you will be covering the couture shows this coming season. Viktor and Rolf are planning to digitally reveal their new collection on Wednesday, July 8th at 4pm. It would be great to know what you and the team have planned, or if you will be covering the collections. Any information will be super helpful Let me know Cherelle xx Kindest regards, Cherelle Byfield Account Manager, Communications Karla Otto London 30 Sackville Street London W1S 3DY United Kingdom

Dior Save the Date:

Dear Tony,

I hope you are well. Please see the below SAVE THE DATE for the Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection presentation to be revealed exclusively online on Monday, 6th July 2020 at 1.30pm (2.30pm Paris Time). Invitation to follow Best wishes, Callie

7

Dior:

Heritage, history and a brilliant repertoire of signatures…

Whilst working for , and talked of opening their own couture house together. However, Balmain couldn’t wait and started his own house solo. This spurred Dior to get backing from Boussac, a fabric manufacturer, hence the unlimited access to fabric allowing Dior to use huge meterage to create his first collection.

8 French Born Christian Dior started the work for his Parisian couture house in a small mansion on in 1946. “I have designed flower women!” he announced of his debut collection, called Corolle (meaning ‘a circlet of flower petals’). It was indeed christened the “New Look” when it appeared in January 1947. When Dior died suddenly of a heart attack in 1957, his former assistant, Yves Saint Laurent, succeeded him – and became the world’s youngest couturier aged 21. His first collection was the Trapeze Line for spring/summer 1958 – this collection had already been started as almost a collaboration between Monsieur Dior and the young Saint Laurent. It was in direct opposition in its silhouette to the fit and flare lines of The New Look. In a press release for his third collection, it was announced that “the figure was lost in favour of style”. When Saint Laurent was drafted into the army in 1960, was promoted to replace him. Heading the house until 1989, the French designer introduced the Slim Look, a svelte adaptation of Dior’s iconic silhouette, and his famous clients included Princess Grace of Monaco and Sophia Loren. ’s Gianfranco Ferré then took the baton – the first foreign-born designer to do so – bringing an architectural aesthetic (he was nicknamed “the Frank Lloyd Wright of fashion”) to the maison. But something more radical was waiting in the wings. In 1996, ’s took over, and let loose intricate beading, bias cuts and drama. He was dismissed from Dior in 2011 after making anti-Semitic remarks and an alleged assault. Bill Gaytten stepped up temporarily heading the house until 2012, when Belgian designer was handed the reins. He cemented the label with his contemporary cool – attracting celebrities such as to updated versions of Dior classics, including the Bar jacket.

When Raf Simons left in 2015 he was briefly replaced by Serge Ruffeiux and Lucie Meyer. Then in July 2016 came a new chapter, with Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri taking her turn at the helm. The first woman to the post, she has invigorated the label with a magnetic modernity.

• https://www.vogue.com/article/christian-dior-resort-2021-announcement

• https://www.lofficiel.co.uk/fashion- week/dior%20announces%20an%20event%20in%20lecce%20July%2022

• https://fashionista.com/2020/06/dior-cruise-2021-lecce-italy

• https://emirateswoman.com/dior-cruise-show-go-ahead-twist/

• https://www.dior.com/en_gb/mens-fashion/air-dior

Dior launches new podcast series June 8, 2020:

Dior is set to launch a podcast series called ‘Dior Untold’ which will cover the history of Dior fragrances.

9 The series will cover Christian Dior’s journey through his , from his native Granville to Paris and beyond. The podcast will also feature commentary from Dior -creator François Demachy.

The first episode, “For the Love of Flowers,” will be broadcast on June 10 at Dior.com, Spotify, Deezer, Apple Podcast, YouTube, SoundCloud and Podcast Addict.

Louis Vuitton:

The brand is about a great deal more than just the canvas, or a signature tote bag.

Vogue:

‘Before Alboh there were Nicolas Ghesquière’s runway reworks, (’ before him), Takashi Murakami’s Pop-minded collaboration of 2003, Catherine Deneuve’s traveling trunks, and Dapper Dan’s knock-ups made in his boutique on East 125th Street in Harlem. But of course, how you know the monogram isn’t what matters—it’s that you know it. The interlocking L and V with floral pattern was designed by ’s son, Georges Vuitton, in 1896 as a way to brand his nascent box and luggage business, and in the 120 years since, it’s become one of the most recognisable marks in the world.

Within the fashion arena, the LV monogram is having something of a resurgence. Since Ghesquière was named artistic director in 2013, the designer has made a point of incorporating it into his collections in new and novel ways to see: the floral-shaped heels of his Spring 2015 boots. Celebrate the history of the iconic house with this look back at its logo in 15 bite-size notes. Abloh's predecessor Kim Jones has had his way with the logo too, using it in a Supreme collaboration in 2017 and as his sign-off from the maison during his final Fall 2018 menswear show.”

• https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/story/a-brief-history-of-louis- vuittons-famous-monogram/1682

• https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/louis-vuitton

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PARIS/MILAN (Reuters) - Louis Vuitton owner LVMH (LVMH.PA) on Thursday posted a 17% drop in comparable sales in the first quarter due to the coronavirus pandemic, as government-imposed lockdowns forced it to close stores and production sites in key markets.

• https://www.globenewswire.com/news- release/2020/04/16/2017512/0/en/LVMH-shows-good-resilience-in-the-first- quarter-of-2020.html

• https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/press-releases/lvmh-shows-good- resilience-in-the-first-quarter-of-2020/

• https://www.lvmh.com/investors/investors-and-analysts/events/

• https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2020/04/louis-vuitton-owner-lvmh- blames-declining-sales-on-covid-19-chaos/

• https://www.reuters.com/article/us-lvmh-results/sales-drop-at-vuitton-owner- lvmh-as-virus-forces-store-closures-idUSKBN21Y2JZ

Chanel:

The history is the foundation on which the future is built, with the signatures always stressed and in place. Little , , chains, the two tone shoe, camellias; it’s about change but recognising the past is a strong thread holding everything together.

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Coco Chanel’s life story is the ultimate example of making something beautiful out of very little. Originally born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in the summer of 1883, ’s early life in was certainly not the dazzling experience we associate with fashion icons.

Chanel’s mother passed away, and her father placed her in an orphanage at a very young age. While living in the orphanage, Chanel was raised by nuns, who taught her how to sew. At a young age, Chanel briefly spent time as a singer, and performed in clubs under the stage name ‘Coco’. When she was approximately 20 years old, Coco Chanel became romantically linked with hat designer Etienne Balsan. Even though she soon left Balsan for his wealthy friend, Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, both gentlemen assisted Chanel with her first fashion-related business.

At the age of 27, Chanel opened her first store on Paris’ Rue Cambon, where she sold hats. She later opened more stores and started selling clothing as well. Chanel attributed much of her designing success to a single dress she created during this time. She was traveling to her store, and the weather was cold, so she wore a dress that she had crafted from an old jersey. Many people asked her where she bought the dress, and she offered to make them their own.

From that point on, Chanel continued to achieve accomplishment after accomplishment in the fashion industry. Her Chanel No. 5 was a big success and was the first perfume to feature the designer’s name. Considered a real trailblazer in the industry, Chanel also introduced the Chanel suit and the .

Chanel helped women feel more comfortable in formal and professional attire by borrowing elements from men’s wear but tailoring the designs to be applicable for the female body. Coco Chanel also famously transformed black from something that you wear to a funeral to the chicest form of eveningwear. Little black dresses are staples in women’s closets everywhere, just as the lessons and revolutionary visions of Coco Chanel continue to be staples in . Most of all I think she encouraged women to speak up and be heard at a time when women were starting businesses and having professional careers. Some might say that her fashion designs reflected this shift. Chanel died in 1971. The house was kept alive by the designer Philippe Guibourge, until 1983 when was bought in to design Haute Couture, after one collection he was then made artistic director of the house including Pret a Porter. Lagerfeld died in 2019 and he has been replaced by his former assistant, .

• Chanel’s life has been captured on two films both released in 2009: Coco Chanel and starring and based on a novel of the same name, and starring . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_Chanel

12 Chanel 2020:

• https://www.chanel.com/us/makeup/june-new-and-now/

• https://www.chanel.com/us/eyewear/sunglasses/c/2x3x1x1/runway/

• https://youtu.be/8CjvnDzJXHM

Investing in Luxury:

Since the beginning of 2020 so many things have damaged fashion at all levels. Primark has no online presence so the re opening of their retail was not just exciting for their customers, it was essential. Many luxury pieces are only a available to select customers in store, indeed some luxury brands have either no or limited on line sales. Even luxury beauty can only be repeat buys, since the testing of a lipstick must be done in reality not cyber space.

Luxury shops, stores, boutiques and concessions are usually beautifully laid out for display, merchandising and client access. Numbers at this level of shopping are not at all like a supermarket, a general department store or regular high street shopping. So, post lockdown openings involved little need for distancing or change, other than hand sanitiser, masks and no handshakes or air kisses. However, auctions, vintage, unique pieces and the opportunities to invest in collectibles carried on virtually uninterrupted. The ease with which online auctions have taken over in recent years is extraordinary. 2011 was the first Christie’s online Auction for the sale and was in fact instigated by Meredith Etherington-Smith. Whatever the obituaries may say, I heard it from Meredith.

13 ‘Meredith Etherington-Smith was a highly respected and much-loved figure at Christie’s, where she served variously as Global Chief Marketing Officer, Editor-in- Chief on Christie’s Magazine and as a creative contributor to many of the highest profile auctions of the last 30 years.’

• https://www.christies.com/features/Meredith-Etherington-Smith-1946-2020- Obituary-10280-1.aspx

• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/meredith-etherington-smith-obituary- mfpmvllpb

thredUP:

We were just days from publishing our 2020 Resale Report in March when the Covid crisis hit.

Like every business in the world, thredUP paused to focus on the safety of our teams and set a plan for the rest of 2020. At the time, it seemed that Covid had “changed everything.” But is that really true as we look ahead? Here’s what the latest data is telling us:

First, changes that were already afoot in retail are accelerating rapidly. Sheltering in place catalysed the shift toward shopping online. As a result, opportunities are expanding for the strongest ecommerce and marketplace businesses. Second, for all the challenges Covid posed to our assumptions about consumer behaviour, one thing is clear: consumers everywhere are prioritizing value and accelerating the shift to thrift. When times get uncertain, we all focus on our family balance sheet. Brands whose core proposition delivers value and convenience have the opportunity to gain share. Amazon, off-price, and resale are emerging as winners.”

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• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/high-heels-handbags-and-huge-- on-the-road-to-rio-and-beijing-r9k5djgjkgc

• https://www.knightfrank.com/wealthreport/luxury-spending/2020-03-03-why- you-can-never-have-too-many-collectable-handbags

• https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jun/28/450k-for-trainers-why- vintage-fashion-is-the-new-smart-investment

• https://www.ibisworld.com/industry-insider/analyst-insights/sustainability-and- the-online-resale-market/

• https://www.thredup.com/resale/

Watches:

A great deal more than simply something to tell the time by. Knowing and understanding the world of watches is essential in the luxury category. There are many specialists within this field and those who write about watches, like Avril Groom, have an expertise and an enquiring mind on the technicalities and complexities of the business which are extraordinary. Much watch production is worked through a series of specialist workshops each with only one specific component of the construction. The purchasers of these watches are also collectors and often experts. Like fine , although there is big money, it’s all about knowledge and discussion and interest and investing. Every tiny detail counts.

Overview:

On 1 April, Sotheby’s launched Watches Weekly, a rolling calendar of online sales with a new selection of watches being unveiled every seven days. Responding to the confidence and desire of collectors looking for important pieces to purchase online, this series provides a fast and dynamic way to buy and sell watches and has attracted collectors from around the world. Many of the buyers in the first sales were new to Sotheby’s (54%) and under 40 (40%). The sales have already set new benchmarks for

15 online watch auctions, including a record for a watch sold in an online sale for the Patek Philippe Nautilus, ref. 5711 in platinum with blue jeans dial, circa 2014 which sold for HK$ 3,750,000 (US$ 484,000).

2019 proved a record year for watch sales at Sotheby’s, achieving $109 million globally, the highest annual total in the company’s history, and a 22% uplift on 2018. Offering the finest timepieces ranging from the 16th century to the modern day, including the most sought after modern and vintage clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, Sotheby’s Watch department showcases the thriving and international nature of this category, frequently achieving world record breaking results in all of Sotheby’s selling locations.

Forming and maintaining strong relationships with the world’s collectors and connoisseurs is paramount to the service provided. With a truly global presence, the department holds sales in London, , Dubai, Hong Kong and New York with a specialised team in each location whose passion for watches is matched only by their unparalleled knowledge and experience. The market is one of constant change and as such, the worldwide team is dedicated to keeping abreast of the latest trends and developments. Our specialists recognise - and take pride in - the fact that constant learning and the sharing of knowledge both within and outside the industry, is as essential as in any other academic genre or category.

The Watch department has consistently achieved benchmark prices, including $24 million for the Patek Philippe Henry Graves’ Super complication – a longstanding auction record for a timepiece - and the George Daniels ‘Space Traveller I’ which set the highest price for both an English Watch and an Independent Watchmaker at $4.6 million in 2019. Clocks also achieved record prices last year: a contemporary clock by Cartier sold for $1.03 million in Hong Kong, a clock by Vacheron Constantin realised $667,467 in London and a Cartier Comet Clock achieved $350,000 in New York.

Online sales continue to grow rapidly with 56% of all lots sold online in this category in 2019 and 80% of bidders participating online. The top watch sold online in 2019 set an auction record for a Millennium wristwatch by George Daniels, selling for $289,800 in Hong Kong in April.

Demonstrating the breadth and extent of its collective knowledge and expertise, the department has been entrusted with and sold numerous ground-breaking pieces and collections. Following the success of the first two sales from the Masterworks of Time collection held in London & Geneva in 2019, already surpassing the low estimate for the entire collection when they sold for a combined $15.8 million, Sotheby’s will offer the final two sales from the series in New York in June and Geneva in November this year.

• https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/HK080120?utm_source=google&utm _medium=cpc&utm_campaign=HK080120%7CWatches%20HK%3A%2010%2 0July%202020%7CNB%7CGeneral%7C071020&utm_term=hong%20kong%2 0watches%20auction&utm_content=HK080120_NonBrand_Search&gclid=CjwK

16 CAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7GakuqY4j- O6_KZLOqyEzit1B2K02GeZc4JTatWC0bxl5_CVlsGtZxoCqSMQAvD_BwE

• https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches- online/categories/387?lang=en-us • https://www.daviddugganwatches.co.uk/one-to-watch/2019/why-vintage- watches-are-a-sound-investment-for-2020/

Masterclass at Home _ By Bvlgari With Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Creative Director of Watches:

• https://youtu.be/rYw2fyyAKOA

Handbags:

Investing in a handbag, might just be better than stocks and shares. Another luxury element to watch and learn about in depth.

High jewellery from any of the great houses is truly an investment. Expertise and knowledge as much as taste is involved. Stones; be they , opals or topazes are living things, every single stone is unique. I was shown a at once, whose ruby drops had taken two years to match in colour and size. Collections of

17 jewellery often take two years to be produced and of course every piece in a one off since the stones cannot be exactly the same if the piece is made again. Many jewellery houses run course for clients to learn more about the process and the stones. These are very successful and Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels have a series of subjects for those interested to take up.

“We all know that splashing out on designer fashion labels can be expensive. Nonetheless, the idea of paying six figures for a used handbag may sound somewhat extreme. Increasingly, though, serious collectors are spending this kind of money at auction for the ultimate handbag “must have” – the exotic Himalaya Birkin, produced by Hermès.”

It may seem like misguided decadence to splash cash on a designer handbag but it could prove to be a better investment than the stock market or gold.

While the FTSE 100 index gained 12 per cent last year, Hermès Birkin handbags increased in value by 13 per cent, outperforming other collectable items such as fine , art, watches, jewellery or whisky.

Birkin bags are so popular at auctions that an index has been created by Art Market Research to track their growing value. Over the past ten years the FTSE and gold, often regarded as a safe haven for wealth, both increased by 39 per cent while Birkin bags grew in value by 108 per cent, according to the Wealth Report published by Knight Frank.

• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/bag-the-investment-that-outstrips-gold- 3p93wmm3s

• https://www.sothebys.com/en/departments/handbags-and-accessories

• https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/what-to-wear/a30859/best-investment-bags/

Handbags Private Sales:

At Christie’s, we recognise that collectors are often looking for a special handbag or are seeking to buy or sell a handbag outside of the auction season. Christie’s Private Sales is a tailored and bespoke process through which our team of handbag specialists work one-on-one with you to either source or sell your item in the strictest confidence, utilising our global network of collector relationships.

Christie’s Handbags specialists are available for appointments and hold private selling exhibitions worldwide.

We invite you to contact us for confidential discussions should you wish to purchase or sell works through the Handbags Private Sales.

• https://onlineonly.christies.com/p/christies-handbag-shop/16

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Introducing the Savoir-Faire of the Dior 'Lady D-Lite' Bag

• https://youtu.be/6YIAidw_Npc

• https://www.theglassmagazine.com/bulgari-debuts-alexander-wang-x-bulgari- serpenti-2020-capsule-collection/

Spilling the tea on Hermes! Myths Debunked! Playing the Game, how to score a Birkenstock, Kelly or more.

• https://youtu.be/7nVn2bsOGyc

The craft, the heritage and the perfection of every element in the name, the brand and the house is legendary in luxury terms. From saddlery to jewellery the house stamps its restrained elegance on every product. The legendary are prized across the decades and worn by some of the most elegant women of the past fifty years. Each design is known and understood by collectors and at auction it’s the knowledgeable who alight on a rare or unusual design.

I once went to a tiny sale of Hermes scarves at the headquarters in the rue du Faubourg Saint Honore. The scarves on sale were unfinished, that is to say the hand rolled edges had not been done so any purchaser would need a specialist to do this

19 task, the scarves in this sale had minuscule imperfections (I believe this is no longer allowed). Two women dressed head to toe in couture actually physically fought over a . I always think this is an indication of the empowerment and beauty of Hermes.

Founding Hermès Paris:

Hermès founder, Thierry Hermès, was born in Krefeld, Germany. His family relocated to France in 1828, at which time Thierry began learning the trade of leather making. Nearly a decade later in 1837, Thierry took his talents to the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, establishing a harness workshop that served the wealthy noblemen of Europe. Here, Hermès crafted high quality, wrought iron harnesses and bridles for those in the carriage business. It wasn’t long before Hermès was recognized for his innovations. He went on to win the first prize at the Expositions Universelles in Paris in 1855, and again in 1867.

Thierry Hermès passed away in 1878, leaving his workshop to his son, Charles-Emile Hermès. Charles-Emile established the brand’s flagship store in Paris in 1880, moving his father’s workshop to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, where it still remains today. With the help of his two sons, Adolphe and Emile-Maurice, Charles-Emile began selling saddlery. By expanding his brand’s offering, he was able to cater to elite clients from all over Europe, Russia, North Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Adolphe and Emile-Maurice also assisted their father in creating the ‘Haut a Courroies’ bag, the brand’s first handbag designed for riders to carry their saddles while traveling.

• https://www.designerfashionconsignments.com/a-brief-history-of-hermes/

• https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/hermes-timeline-ss/#undefined

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hermès

The market value for Hermès broke 80 billion euros for the first time in history after its stock price went up for 5 percent in the past week. At the same time, the market cap of the LVMH Group reached 203 billion euros, the second time it exceeded 200 billion euros. And the stock price of the Kering Group surged for 12.5 percent, bringing its market value to near 67 billion euros — the same pre-COVID-19 levels — indicating the strong rebound of the leading luxury groups.

• https://jingdaily.com/hermes-hits-record-high-market-value-amid-covid-19/

• https://finance.hermes.com/en/Releases/All-releases

• https://www.globenewswire.com/news- release/2020/04/23/2020600/0/en/Hermès-International-1st-quarter-2020- sales.html

20 • https://www.globalcosmeticsnews.com/hermes-q1-2020-store-closures-see- revenue-fall-6-5-percent/

• https://sg.asiatatler.com/style/post-covid-19-hermès-earns-2-7-million-in- sales-on-reopening-day-china-guangzhou-flagship-store

• https://www.thefashionlaw.com/hermes-posts-strongest-performance-in- luxury-sector-while-its-coveted-bags-withstand-pandemic-pressures/

Jewels:

High jewellery from any of the great houses is truly investment. Expertise and knowledge as much as taste is involved. Stones; be they diamonds, opals or topazes are living things, every single stone is unique. I was shown a necklace at Bulgari once, whose ruby drops had taken two years to match in colour and size. Collections of jewellery often take two years to be produced and of course every piece in a one off since the stones cannot be exactly the same if the piece is made again. Many jewellery houses run course for clients to learn more about the process and the stones. These are very successful and Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels have a series of subjects for those interested to take up.

21 Bulgari have been much in the news with the work they have undertaken during the times of COVID 19.

• https://www.bulgari.com/en-int/stories/bulgari-donation-to-oxford-university- vaccine-research.html?story=true

• https://www.bulgari.com/en-int/stories/bulgari-donate-hand-sanitizer-against- coronavirus-uk.html?story=true

Bulgari:

Richard Burton. “I taught Elizabeth about rugby and she taught me about Bulgari”

Founded in 1884; 136 years ago, by Sotirios Voulgaris, Headquarters are in Rome, Italy chairman is Paolo Bulgari, and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin.

Website: www.bulgari.com

Bulgari (BVLGARI) is an Italian luxury brand known for its jewellery, watches, fragrances, accessories and leather goods. While the majority of design, production and marketing is overseen and executed by Bulgari, the company does, at times, partner with other entities. For example, Bulgari eyewear is produced through a licensing agreement with Luxottica, and Bulgari formed a joint venture with Marriott International in 2001 to launch its hotel brand, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, a collection of properties and resort destinations around the world.

Currently part of the LVMH Group, Bulgari was founded in the region of Epirus, Greece, in 1884 by the silversmith Sotirios Boulgaris as a single jewellery shop that has, over the years, become an international brand. The company has evolved into a player in the luxury market, with an established and growing network of stores.

• https://www.bulgari.com/en-int/the-maison/about-bvlgari/bvlgari-history.html

22

Muse Arabia/ Bvlgari Unveils Jannah The New High Jewellery Collection At The Abu Dhabi

• https://youtu.be/z6CTnJ0gZOM

Bvlgari Webinar - Innovating The Present For A Sustainable Future

• https://hypebeast.com/2020/2/bulgari-baselworld-2020-news

• https://youtu.be/QE5hhWl6PIM

Fake Crown Jewels:

It’s not all easy in luxury.

Hermes Fakery:

Luxury can be vulnerable, whether it’s a Picasso or a Birkin.

23 • https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/jun/24/ex-hermes-staff-appear-in- court-over-fake-designer-handbags

• https://www.cnbc.com/2020/02/29/tiktok-teens-are-obsessed-with-fake- luxury-products.html

• https://www.dlapiper.com/es/spain/insights/publications/2020/04/law-a-la- mode-30th-edition/legal-fakes-the-fabulous-destiny-of-copycats/

• https://www.industryweek.com/the- economy/regulations/article/21936106/louis-vuitton-wins-landmark-counterfeit- case-in-canada

Sustainability:

The fascinating thing about the subject of sustainability is that it can be a tiny thing in a local situation, or it can be a huge global incentive. The subject will assume more importance in the light of the most recent climate news.

24 • https://s2.washingtonpost.com/camp- rw/?trackId=5eda11d1ade4e276b35f8025&s=5ef9664afe1ff6482dafa3ed&linkn um=7&linktot=88

• https://www.theguardian.com/education/2020/jun/24/fashion-graduates-have- a-unique-opportunity-to-make-retail-sustainable

• https://beyond2020.se/

• https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/goal-of-the-month/

• https://esdw.eu/

GAP:

Kanye West has announced a clothing collaboration with the Gap.

The team-up between West’s Yeezy brand and the retailer, which West hashtagged #Westdayever, will go live in stores in 2021 and will feature an affordable range of menswear, womenswear and kids’ clothes. Notably missing from the collaboration was any footwear, which would impinge on his hugely successful collaboration with Adidas. The American retailer will be hoping that West’s star power will help the ailing brand, who reported a quarterly loss of $932m (£738m) in the three months to 2 May.

25 Gossip.

Twitter:

T.G.

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