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Home , Lagrein, North Fork (Long Island), Old World wine, Refosco, Sparkling wine

ong Island country Yet, nearly 40 years since its ing to stay and work on Long try for decades tried to mar- is situated on the North first commercial vinifera vine- Island. ry themselves with these oth- ’s and South Forks of Long yard was planted, a new era is Experimenting with an ar- er better-known places,” says LIsland—two scraggy tines of emerging in an area once main- ray of varieties and wine David Page, co-owner of Shinn land that extend into the Atlan- ly occupied by potato farms styles, many of the best wine- Estate and Farm- New Wine Wave B Y tic Ocean. With its maritime cli- and fishing villages. Amidst makers are focused on produc- house, “but we realized soon Once seen as ’s answer to Bordeaux, ANNA mate and northerly latitude, the the pioneers who started it all, ing artisanal, small-lot after we set foot on this prop- LEE C. region’s vintners have long em- second-generation Long Island intended to express the island’s erty that our goal—our job— IIJIMA braced comparisons to Bordeaux vintners, as well as new interna- . was to figure out a way to make the island now yields a range of wine styles. and other wine regions. tional , are choos- “Winemakers in this coun- these wines unique.”

Best Red Best White Best Best Best Unusual Best Sweet Wine Paumanok 2010 (North Shinn Estate 2010 Haven - Sparkling Pointe 2008 Blanc de Noirs Anthony Nappa 2011 Anomaly White Channing Daughters 2010 Mudd West The of Roth 2009 Noble Roth 91 Fork of Long Island). 90 Sémillon (North Fork of Long Island). 90 (North Fork of Long Island). 90 (New York). 90 Blaufränkisch (North Fork of 90 Late (Long Island). abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 13.4% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $75 abv: 12.8% Price: $19 Long Island). abv: 10.8% Price: $36/375 ml abv: 12.8% Price: $27 From the summer Hamptons’ Ripe and concentrated, yet pro- Don’t make the mistake of describ- The only in New York de- With a portfolio that ranges from In the 20 years since Roman Roth classic, the Wölffer Estate Vineyard foundly elegant and feminine ing Haven (a blend of Sauvignon voted entirely to the production of to “orange” wine made first arrived in Long Island from Rosé, to the eight varietal “pink” in style, Paumanok’s 2010 Cab- Blanc and Sémillon fermented in -style sparkling wines, from Pinot Grigio grapes vinified on his native Germany (with stops in wines produced by Channing ernet Franc is “one of the best French ) as a Bordeaux-style Sparkling Pointe in Southold pro- their skins, Channing Daughters on California and Australia along the Daughters, dry rosé is plentiful on Cabernet Francs that Pauma- blend in the presence of Shinn co- duces some of the best in the state. the is known for its bold way), his wines for Wölffer Estate Long Island. One of the best, and nok has ever produced,” says Ka- owner David Page. Owned by the appropriately ef- experimentation and innovative Vineyard, and since 2001, his per- arguably most unusual bottlings, is reem Massoud, at his “I don’t think I make anything fervescent husband-and-wife team, wine styles. The Mudd West sonal label, The Grapes of Roth, Anthony Nappa’s Anomaly. multigenerational, family-owned that has to do with traditional Bor- Tom and Cynthia Rosicki (whose Vineyard Blaufränkisch is hardly have come to represent some of winery. Massoud credits the hot, deaux,” he says with amusement. love for all things Rio and Carnaval As its name suggests, Anom- unusual by Channing Daughters Long Island’s most popular Mer- dry 2010 , but certainly “That’s why we call it Haven, the runs rampant throughout the es- aly isn’t considered a rosé at all, standards, but it’s one of the most lot, rosé and sparkling wines. much of the success is due to the name given to the soils by the U.S. tate), the winery is a hybrid of New but instead, as Nappa describes distinctive of Long Island wines. “But when it comes to mak- efforts of the entire Massoud fam- Geological Survey. That name is World flair and Old World tradition. it, a “ made from red ing white wine,” Roth says, “there “Blaufränkisch is an important ily—Kareem’s parents, Ursula and so important to us because that’s Winemaker Gilles Martin, a grapes,” vinified with virtually no is no higher achievement than to part of our portfolio, one of the Charles, and brothers, Nabeel and what we’re trying to do—create French native who grew up not far skin contact and fermented entirely make a trockenbeerenauslese,” few we release as a varietal wine,” Salim—who have produced limit- wines that express this place.” from Champagne, came to Long Is- in stainless steel “as if it was never the unctuous German dessert notes J. Christopher Tracy, partner ed quantities of exceptional wines Haven, like most of the wines land after extended stints in Ger- a red grape.” “Our wines wine made from rare botrytized Roth’s From grape Tom and Cyn- Nappa, long- and winemaker. “I love the grape in the North Fork since 1983. made by Page and his wife, co- While the many, Australia, Virginia and Made from Pinot Noir sourced hold a distinct grapes. “It’s the nectar [of] the father was a growing to thia Rosecki first time winemaker itself and how it performs in our 2010 H aven is middle ground winemaker and While the triumph of the 2010 , owner Barbara Shinn, are crafted California (where he worked at met at a debutante from the and the at Shinn E state, gods when it comes—like a tro- only the third terroir, developing all these red, between the Old cooper in Rott- Cabernet Franc—what Massoud bottling to dis- from estate-grown fruit that has ). ball at New York North Fork, Anomaly is firmly struc- left in 2011 to phy,” he says. vintage of this blue and black raspberry and briary and . weil, Germa- refers humbly to as their lighter tribution, Ursu- been hand harvested and ferment- According to Martin, the el- City’s iconic The tured yet effortlessly quaffable. “It focus on his own The first vintage of the No- wine, Page They appeal ny. A childhood la and Charles Waldorf=Astoria label and start fruit flavors that change according bodied, more approachable “white ed with indigenous based on hopes it will be egance and finesse of Spar- captures the essence of a Pinot to people of ble Roth Late Harvest was picture of Roth Massoud and hotel. Today, The Winemaker to the vintage.” label” made from younger vines— biodynamic and organic principles. a bottling to kling Pointe’s wines is rooted in Noir—its silkiness and the earthi- both preferenc- this 2009. Shriveled and deli- atop one of his their three sons Sparkling Pointe’s Studio by enjoy over the All of Channing Daughters’s es—New World father’s barrels has been heartening, he looks even manage every “We could have used a Bor- traditional Champagne blend- 2007 Brut is on ness—combined with the acidity Anthony Nappa cate to the touch, concentrated next 15–20 wines are made from hand- wines with overt decorates most more ambitiously toward the just- aspect of Pau- deaux yeast and had it taste more ing—a harmony created from the wine list at the of white wine,” says Nappa. Wines, a coopera- late-harvest grapes are painstak- years—or ripeness, but of The Grapes of bottled, unreleased 2010 Grand manok’s opera- like a Bordeaux, but that’s nev- , Pinot Noir and Pinot hotel’s Peacock Nappa’s wife, chef and co-own- tive tasting room picked fruit, crushed by foot and ingly harvested and selected by longer. also wines that Roth labels—a tions. Kareem Alley restaurant. featuring wines punched down by hand. The 2010 Vintage Cabernet Franc. er been our intention,” Page says Meunier—and a focus on the dis- er, Sarah Evans Nappa, pairs Anom- pair easily with hand, keeping production small. photo he’s since Massoud’s wife, from some of “Our Grand Vintage is intend- playfully. tinctions in terroir of the winery’s aly with a ceviche of local Peconic Blaufränkisch was fermented food, with juicy With limited acreage devot- replicated with Marilee Foster, Long I sland’s best entirely using ambient yeast and acid, moder- his daughter In- ed to be even more ageworthy... of is a North Fork Left on the skins for three days, the wine has a various North Fork vineyard sites. Bay scallops adorned with candied winemakers. ed to Riesling on the North Fork, bottled by gravity without fining or ate alcohol and dira atop one of even greater complexity and con- native whose riveting hint of tannin and a fleshy quality intended for The 2008 Blanc de Noirs, a blend of Pinot Noir and Pi- ginger, herbs and pink peppercorns. Roth debates whether to attempt structure that his own barrels. centration,” he says. own fami- long aging. not Meunier, is seductive in its concentrated fruit profile, filtration. it again. leans towards ly spans five Other recommended rosés: Other recommended yet remarkably complex and subtle on the nose and palate. the Old World.” “The bigger the acreage, the generations of Channing Daughters 2011 Mudd Vineyard Ro- unusual : Other recommended reds: Other recommended whites: —J. Christopher smaller the risk. But if you only have five or even three farming in Long 90 sato (North Fork of Long Island). Anthony Nappa 2010 Spe- The Grapes of Roth 2005 Channing Daughters 2010 Sylvanus (The Tracy Other recommended sparkling wines: R abv: 13% Price: $18 zia Gewürztraminer (North acres, your risk is much higher,” Roth says. Merlot (Long Island). Island. Hamptons, Long Island). E 89 90 90 Sparkling Pointe 2002 Brut Séduction (North D Fork of Long Island). abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 R Paumanok 2011 Dry Rosé (North Fork of Long “From a business point of view,” he says, “it’s a risky 90 Fork of Long Island). O abv: 14.6% Price: $18 G 89 Island). venture. From a trophy point of view, the risk is justified.”

Macari 2008 Dos Aguas (North Fork of Long Bedell 2010 Chardonnay (North Fork of Long abv: 12.5% Price: $60 N

A abv: 12% Price: $18 Paumanok 2011 Dry (North Fork

Island). Island). V 89 89 Sparkling Pointe 2006 Blanc de Blancs (North of Long Island). N Channing Daughters 2011 Mudd Vineyard Ro- 89 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $25 O Other recommended sweet wines: 88 Fork of Long Island). J abv: 11% Price: $25 S 88 sato (North Fork of Long Paumanok 2010 Late Harvest Riesling (North McCall 2007 Corchaug Estate Ben’s Blend Bedell 2010 Taste White (North Fork of Long abv: 12.5% Price: $42 O T Island). Channing Daughters 2011 Home Farm Vineyard Fork of Long Island). 89 (North Fork of Long Island). 89 Island). O 90 H abv: 13% Price: $18 Rosato (, Long Island). abv: 13.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 P 88 abv: 9% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 13% Price: $20

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 WineMag.com | 47