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The Ultimate Guide to Sparkling Wines

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The Ultimate Guide to Sparkling Wines THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SPARKLING WINES Prestige Australian sparkling wines from cool-climate, high- altitude regions are among the world’s best. Discover its bubbly brilliance, from how it’s made to where it’s from. CONTENTS – The history and rise of sparkling wine in Australia – How sparking wine is made – Sparkling wine styles – Australia’s sparkling wine regions – Drinking and enjoying sparkling wine Cover: Kate Laurie, Deviation Road, Adelaide Hills THE JOY OF SPARKLING WINE FUN FACT The pop of a cork, the splash of foam, the bead of fine bubbles – nothing says A STANDARD BOTTLE OF celebration like a bottle of sparkling wine. SPARKLING WINE CONTAINS And for a long time, the only kind that AROUND 49 MILLION BUBBLES. signified a very special occasion was sparkling wine from Champagne. But times are changing. Prestige sparkling wines from cool-climate, high-altitude regions are taking their place as the celebratory wine of choice for occasions both big and small. From bright and fresh Prosecco styles and sweet Moscatos to creative pétillant-naturels, authentic sparkling Shiraz and complex and powerful traditional-method styles, Australia boasts a great diversity of sparkling wine. These wines rely on pristine wine-growing regions, expert winemakers and a culture of innovation to create some of the world’s finest sparkling wines. The ultimate guide to sparkling wines HISTORY AND RISE OF SPARKLING WINE IN AUSTRALIA 1893 Winemaker Edmund Mazure begins using Shiraz grapes to produce Australian sparkling reds in South Australia. 1881 1918 The Victorian Champagne Hans Irvine retires; Company produces its first Seppelts takes over Great Sparkling Burgundy. Western winery, with Colin Preece as winemaker. 1930s 1980s Cool-climate, high-quality & ’40s sparkling reds make a comeback, while Champagne Preece produces iconic and sparkling wine producer sparkling reds that Moët & Chandon settles in the winemakers still try to Yarra Valley to make Australian emulate today. sparklings. 1950s TO DAY Sparkling wine gains Australian sparklings are momentum as a trendy, shining brighter than ever. celebratory drink. The ultimate guide to sparkling wines HISTORY AND RISE OF SPARKLING decided to try it out in Australia. He enlisted WINE IN AUSTRALIA the help of Günter Prass, a German Australia has a rich and storied history of sparkling specialist, to create ‘Barossa sparkling winemaking that dates back to the Pearl’. This was a light sparkling made 19th century. from Eden Valley Riesling, Barossa Semillon and Muscat. (Instead of sugar, Prass used 1800s Muscatel and Frontignan juice to kickstart As far back as 1881, the state of Victoria the sparkling wine’s secondary fermentation, was home to the Victorian Champagne a technique that resulted in lower alcohol Company, an entrepreneurial endeavour and sweeter flavours.) The result was a between a Melbourne doctor and French pretty, fruity, warm-climate sparkling that winemaker Auguste D’Argent. The Victorian thrilled the wine-drinking public. Champagne Company didn’t last long, but other winemakers soon followed suit and Many imitations followed, and it remained a began experimenting with sparkling styles. popular choice for Australian wine drinkers Another winemaker, Edmund Mazure, used who enjoyed these fruity, warm-climate Pinot Noir grapes to make sparkling reds at sparkling wines for nearly 30 years. Auldana, near Adelaide in South Australia, Sparkling reds re-emerged in the 1980s before making the groundbreaking choice due to a number of influences, including to use Shiraz grapes for sparkling reds Australia’s shift to cooler climates and beginning in 1893. higher-quality sparkling wines of finesse 1900s and style. It also helped that cellar hands Hans Irvine in Victoria’s Great Western also at Seppelt Great Western had hidden started making Sparkling Burgundy, with his away a collection of Colin Preece’s iconic winemaker, Charles Pierlot, winning awards sparkling reds, showed them to the current for his sparkling wines. Benno Seppelt winemaker and reinvigorated the style. took ownership of the winery in 1918 and Also during this time, renowned put Great Western on the map, not only Champagne producers Moët & Chandon with the magnificent sparkling wines but scouted for a location in Australia to start also exceptional table wines, particularly making their own fine Australian sparkling Shiraz. Legendary winemaker Colin Preece wine. They enlisted the help of wine expert took over in 1932 and pursued excellence Tony Jordan, who ran a wine consultancy in winemaking for the next three decades. business with Brian Croser, famed founder Preece’s headily rich, evocative and long- of Petaluma winery. lived sparkling reds of the 1930s and ’40s Jordan and the French eventually settled have inspired many other producers to on Victoria’s beautiful Yarra Valley. It was a create their own take on this incomparable successful venture, and Domaine Chandon Australian style – one that is still sought out celebrated 30 years in Australia by winning by connoisseurs today. the national trophy for Best Australian Great Western continued to make good- Sparkling Wine for its Chandon Prestige quality sparkling wines in both white and red Cuvée 2005 at the 2016 Champagne and varieties, but it wasn’t until the mid-1950s Sparkling Wine World Championships. that sparkling really became popular as a celebratory drink in Australia. It started with Colin Gramp at the Barossa region’s renowned Orlando winery. The Gramps were great innovators, always on the lookout for the next big thing. Colin noted the phenomenal success of perlwein, or semi-sparkling wine, in Germany, and The ultimate guide to sparkling wines A shift in climate – and quality Australian fizz today The success of Domaine Chandon (and Today, sparkling wine represents a small the considerably higher prices it could but significant proportion of the Australian command for its quality product) inspired grape and wine community’s total wine producers across Victoria and around production, and it’s a market niche for Australia to explore other regions that which there is excited consumer interest. could produce quality sparkling wine, and Indeed, in the past few years, sparkling wine smaller regions with high altitudes, including consumption has seen considerable growth. Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and the King Valley started to emerge. The ultimate guide to sparkling wines H O W SPARKLING Predominant sparkling wine grapes WINE IS - Chardonnay - Pinot Noir MADE - Pinot Meunier HOW SPARKLING WINE IS MADE sugar levels of approximately 9–11° Baumé Grape varieties (a unit measure of sugar ripeness) and high A number of grape varieties go into making natural acidity. Australian sparkling wines. Chardonnay, Sparkling winemakers then press whole Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are the most bunches of grapes gently to avoid extracting common grapes, while other grapes include any colour or undesirable phenolics, such Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Crouchen, as tannins, from the red varieties. The Trebbiano and Muscat Gordo Blanco. Red must (pressed grape juice) then undergoes grapes, such as Shiraz and Merlot, usually regular alcoholic fermentation to produce go into medium to full-bodied sparkling reds. a base wine that is high in acidity and has Processes a very neutral fruit flavour. Techniques Making sparkling wine is more complex and such as malolactic fermentation and time-consuming than still winemaking, as barrel fermentation are sometimes used, there are additional, often labour-intensive depending on the style of base wine desired. steps. Winemakers then produce a cuvée, or base Sparkling winemaking begins with wine, by blending different batches of wine. winemakers carefully and selectively A cuvée often comes from more than one harvesting the wine grapes. For high- grape variety. quality sparkling wine, winemakers look for premium grapes with high natural acidity, such as those in cool-climate regions. Sparkling wine grapes are also generally harvested earlier to ensure they have low The ultimate guide to sparkling wines Vintage and non-vintage DID YOU KNOW Sparkling wines are either vintage or non- The coeur de cuvée, the heart of the vintage (NV). The vintage is the year the pressing, produces the purest juice. winemaker harvests the grapes. Vintage The taille (tail) is the coarser, inferior wines are those produced from grapes from juice that flows from the press last. an excellent single-vintage harvest. For these wines, the year typically appears on the wine’s label. NV wines comprise blends from different years (usually from two or three vintages) – this is to promote a consistency of style and quality in the sparkling wine from year to year. The ultimate guide to sparkling wines METHODS FOR - Traditional method (méthode traditionnelle) PRODUCING - Transfer method - Ancestral method (méthode ancestrale) SPARKLING - Tank method WINE - Carbonation SPARKLING WINEMAKING METHODS Once the cuvée is made, there are several different methods for producing sparkling wine, each resulting in a slightly different style. The ultimate guide to sparkling wines TRADITIONAL METHOD (MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE) 1. CUVÉE 2. TIRAGE 3. SECOND 4. MATURATION FERMENTATION ON LEES 8. CORKING 7. DOSAGE 6. DISGORGING 5. RIDDLING TRADITIONAL METHOD bottles to stimulate a second fermentation. (MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE) The bottles are topped with a crown seal, The traditional method is the most similar to a beer bottle cap. The secondary well-known method and the one that’s fermentation takes from four to six weeks. mandatory for Champagne – which legally It increases the alcohol content by 1.3–1.5% can be produced only in the region of and traps carbon dioxide in the bottle. Champagne, France, using approved grape Once fermentation finishes, winemakers varieties and made according to specific store the bottles horizontally with the lees rules. Traditional method produces the (dead yeast cells) still in them. Eventually, highest quality, most complex sparkling these yeast cells break down and release wines and is employed by many winemakers proteins and chemical compounds into the around the world to create top-quality wines – a process known as yeast autolysis.
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