( à la volée) champagne and sparkling wine How Prosecco could be so much more

n my previous column, I Bianco sparkling-wine appellation elaborated on why grapes like anywhere in the world, it represents a IProsecco do not benefit from time niche waiting to be carved. If that niche on lees, autolysis, or post-disgorgement is carved with a sufficiently high-quality aging and are thus better suited to a swift bottle-fermented Pinot Bianco, it should bottling and sold as young and fresh as provide the freshness, purity, intensity, possible. I also discovered, however, a and elegance to make a statement—and mosaic of exceptional viticultural sites yet a natural progression from Prosecco. within the Prosecco region that could, if Phase three would be making and planted with Pinot Bianco, produce an aging the wine, and this is where amazing array of great sparkling wines. Prosecco producers will need the What Prosecco producers have assistance of a world-class sparkling- achieved in terms of honest quality—not wine consultant. All Prosecco is cuve to mention profitability per bottle—is a close and most is non-vintage, with just textbook lesson that Cava, Sekt, and 20 percent of producers selling vintaged other sparkling-wine industries would Prosecco cuvées (though this is set to do well to ponder. Ten years ago, no one increase with the introduction of the had heard about it, and now it is Tom Stevenson new Rive designation). A vintaged everywhere. Yet they could do so much metodo classico will therefore be better. Not by getting rid of Prosecco; steepest slopes that could well suit something of a culture shock for most that would be madness. But I would ask Pinot Bianco are not even cultivated. Prosecco producers, and even those who producers: Is Prosecco the be all and Not all the best potential sites are either already make an acceptable standard of end all of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene high or steep, of course. There are many vintaged metodo classico will benefit wine? Is it their ultimate ambition? beautiful, gently sloping sites that have greatly from the vast experience and I don’t think it should be. I think ideal soil and exposure. All the best focused attention of the likes of Salgues Prosecco should be the cash cow that sites in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene are or Jordan. If this new wine is going to drives the industry onward and upward. on south-facing slopes at an altitude work, an acceptable standard just won’t Phase one would be to retain the of 165–1,650ft (50–500m), which results hack it. It will be sold at two or three services of one of the very few world- in a high diurnal difference in times the price of Prosecco, so the quality class sparkling-wine consultants— temperatures. The crisp, cool nights must be pretty special from the start. Michel Salgues or Tony Jordan. Their preserve naturally high acidity, and this There is, however, one aspect of this initial task would be to carry out a survey will give the right clones of Pinot project where Prosecco producers need of the entire region by helicopter and Bianco modest alcohol with an look no further than one of their own, if on foot, to identify which plots would be exceptional intensity of flavor. they are not prevented by their own best suited to the production of modest- Phase two would be the selection pride. And that is the marketing of Bisol. yielding, high-quality Pinot Bianco. and planting of Pinot Bianco clones. Like all Prosecco producers who also While this is happening, a planting Why just Pinot Bianco when Pinot Nero make and sell vintaged metodo classico, program of Prosecco vines should be was my first thought when encountering Bisol could do with some help tweaking initiated on some of the flatter land a very steep, south-facing slope with clay the finesse of those cuvées; but as far as within the DOCG that has not yet been and sandstone soil? The answer is not Prosecco itself is concerned, Bisol has it exploited. This is because, as soon simply because I came across more plots all meticulously sorted. The consistency as Prosecco vines are grubbed up in on which the moraine scree might better throughout the Bisol range is incredibly the best potential Pinot Bianco plots, suit a fineP inot Bianco, since that would consistent. What makes this producer new Prosecco vineyards should be in simply be an argument for planting both stand out from the rest, however, is that production to prevent any hiatus in the varieties. No, I confess that the idea of it specializes in vintaged single-vineyard supply of grapes for the vital cash cow exclusively Pinot Bianco is influenced Prosecco, and the presentation of those that will be funding the new wine. by marketing considerations. As soon as wines is a class apart. Consumers should Currently there are about 1,000ha Pinot Nero and Bianco are put together, never judge a wine by its label, but (2,470 acres) of unexploited land within there is the image of Champagne, which Prosecco producers would be unwise to the DOCG. This is approximately one fortunately is not conjured up with Pinot follow the same advice. Bisol’s vintaged fifth of the appellation, which should Bianco on its own. This gives a Pinot single-vineyard cuvées earn a significant be more than adequate to cover the Bianco sparkling wine a chance to premium, and their presentation gives Pinot Bianco plots that would have to establish its own reputation. And since, the consumer every confidence that it be grubbed up. Some of the highest and to my knowledge, there is no pure Pinot will be worth paying. · Jon Wyand by Photography

54 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 30 2010