Effect of Mordants on Printing with Marigold Flowers

Natural Product Radiance, Vol. 6(4), 2007, pp.306-309 Research Article

Effect of mordants on printing with Marigold flowers dye Radhika Agarwal, Neelam Pruthi* and Saroj Jeet S Singh Department of Clothing and Textiles CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar-125 004, Haryana, India *Correspondent author, E-mail: [email protected]; Address: 165-Sector 15 A, Hisar-125 001 Received 12 June 2006; Accepted 10 January 2007 Abstract In this study Marigold, Tagetes erecta Linn., petals were used to standardize the printing paste for cotton. Seven mordants used to study their effect on printing with said dye were: aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, lead acetate, potassium dichromate (chrome), stannous chloride and zinc chloride. Simultaneous mordanting technique was used. The mordants were added on the basis of total printing paste prepared under optimum conditions. Out of seven mordants, two mordants selected on the basis of visual assessment and washing fastness were chrome and copper sulphate. Fast colours were obtained when 3 per cent chrome or 5 per cent copper sulphate was used. The use of mordants produced various colours with marigold flower dye. Beige colour was obtained when dye was used without any mordant whereas it was mustard with chrome and olive green with copper sulphate. said dye were: aluminium sulphate, Keywords: Marigold flower, Tagetes erecta, Natural dye, Mordants, Cotton, Chrome, Copper copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, lead sulphate. acetate, potassium dichromate (chrome), IPC code; Int. cl.8— C09B 61/00, D06P 1/34 stannous chloride and zinc chloride.

Introduction biodegradable and have better Materials and Methods The art of dyeing and printing has compatibility with the environment. Selection of dye: Marigold petals dried played an important role in adding beauty Natural dyes comprise those in shade and grounded to powder were to the textiles. Dyeing is the art of colorants (dyes and pigment) that are used as a dye source in the standardized imparting particular hues and tints to obtained from animal or vegetable matters printing paste. thread, fabric and other materials by without chemical processing. Natural dyes Selection of fabric: Cotton fabric employing colouring matters whereas in with very few exceptions are non- scoured by standardized method was printing, designs and colours form an substantive but must be used in selected for the printing with marigold artistic expression to embellish the fabric. conjunction with mordants. A mordant flower dye, using standardized printing The craft of printing occupies a usually a metallic salt, has affinity for both recipe. unique place in Indian civilization. It is the colouring matter and the fibre, hence Preparation of printing paste: The believed that the process of printing with by combining with the dye it forms optimized printing recipe was used for natural dyes has been in practice since insoluble precipitates on the fabric. The preparation of printing paste. Optimum 10th century. India had rich tradition of use of mordant also changes the colour variables to prepare printing paste using using natural resources for printing but of same dye stuff. Thus different colour vegetable dyes were: Dye material influx of synthetic dyes in 1856 drove the tones are possible due to mordanting. In concentration-6g/100ml of water; natural dyes in oblivion. Due to present study Marigold, Tagetes erecta extraction time-45 minutes; extraction carcinogenic effect of synthetic dyes, the Linn., petals were used to standardize the pH-7; dye paste -7.5ml; pH of guar paste- green minded consumers are back to printing paste for cotton. Seven mordants 6; dye paste and guar paste ratio-1:5; fixer natural dyes as these are non-hazardous, used to study their effect on printing with concentration-1.5%.

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Procedure: Six grams of dye powder was help of grey scale as per ISO 105 method. best (3.0) followed by copper sulphate (2.8), boiled in 100 ml of water at 7pH for Optimizations of mordant zinc chloride (2.6) and ferrous sulphate 45 minutes and the solution was stirred concentration: To optimize the mordant (2.2). Printing with stannous chloride was frequently. After removal from water bath concentration, these were tried at different least preferred scoring lowest (1.6). solution was strained through nylon cloth. concentrations, viz. 3, 5 and 7 per cent. The extracted solution was heated and After selection of mordants and Assessment of fastness to washing concentrated to 7.5 ml to make a paste. optimization of their concentration, the Data regarding washing fastness The printing paste was prepared samples printed with standardized recipe indicated that the washing fastness of by mixing dye paste and guar gum in the were subjected to fastness test against samples printed with marigold dye ratio of 1:5. It was stirred vigorously to washing, sunlight and rubbing. mordanted with chrome, copper sulphate produce a uniform printing paste. Seven Fastness to sunlight: It was tested as per and zinc chloride was very good as there mordants identified on the basis of the test method IS: 686-1985 using was negligible change in colour (4/5) and literature used for printing the samples exposure rack. no colour staining (5) was observed. were aluminium sulphate, copper Fastness against rubbing: The fastness The colour change due to washing of the sulphate, ferrous sulphate, lead acetate, against rubbing was carried out according potassium dichromate, stannous chloride to IS: 766-1988 method. and zinc chloride. Simultaneous Results and Discussion mordanting technique was used and the mordants were added on the basis of Visual assessment of printed weight of printing paste. Printing was done samples on pre-scoured cotton fabric using The samples printed with screens. different mordants are shown in Figure The fabric was then dried and 1. The data (Table 1) elucidated that the after 24 hours it was steamed at 100ºC colour of marigold printed samples for 45 minutes in a steaming chamber. mordanted with chrome was assessed the The steamed samples were given a cold rinse to remove superficial printing paste. Finally two mordants were selected on the basis of washing fastness and visual assessment of printed samples. Visual assessment: The printed samples were visually evaluated by five judges having experience of working with natural dyes. Fig. 2 : Optimization of mordant For selection of mordants, subjective concentration evaluation was done with reference to colour obtained on three point scale i.e. excellent, good and fair scoring 3, 2 and 1, respectively. Weighted mean score was calculated to draw inferences. Fastness against washing: The samples were evaluated for washing fastness, washing was done as per IS: 3361-1979 Fig. 3 : Colours obtained using optimum method and evaluation was done with the Fig. 1 : Selection of mordants printing variables

Vol 6(4) July-August 2007 307 Research Article samples printed with marigold dye with Table 1 : Assessment of samples printed with other mordants ranged from 3/4 to 3 i.e. marigold flowers dye using different mordants fairly good to fair 4. Hence, on the basis of visual S. Mordants Visual assessment Washing fastness assessment and washing fastness for No. score grades marigold dye chrome and copper sulphate WMS CC CS mordants were selected for further research work. 1. Aluminium Potassium sulphate (Alum) 2.0 3 4 2. Copper sulphate 2.8 4/5 5 Optimization of concentration of 3. Ferrous sulphate 2.2 3 4 mordant 4. Lead acetate 2.4 3/4 5 5. Potassium dichromate (Chrome) 3.0 4/5 5 The samples printed with 6. Stannous chloride 1.6 3/4 4 different concentrations of mordants are 7. Zinc chloride 2.6 4/5 5 shown in Figure 2. The washing fastness grades for colour change of marigold WMS=Weighted Mean Score; CC=Colour change; CS=Colour staining (Table 2) when mordanted with 3 and 5 per cent chrome indicated very good Table 2 : Optimization of concentration of mordant results (4/5) followed by 7 per cent chrome (3/4). Mordanting of the same S. Mordant Per cent Washing fastness paste with 3 per cent copper sulphate No. mordant grades had very good fastness (4/5) followed by 5 and 7 per cent (4).Whereas colour Conc. CC CS change was more in samples printed 1. Without mordant - 3 4/5 without mordant. The data revealed 2. Chrome 3 4/5 5 that after washing there was no colour 5 4/5 5 staining (5) of marigold printed samples 7 3/4 5 when mordanted with chrome and 3. Copper sulphate 3 4 4/5 5 4/5 5 copper sulphate at 3 and 5 per cent. The 745 colour staining was also negligible (4/5) in case of samples printed without CC=Colour change; CS=Colour staining mordants. Hence, it has been inferred that optimum concentration of chrome and Washing fastness grades ranged from 4-4/5. But after washing the copper sulphate mordants were 3 and 5%, The colour fastness grades to change was towards brighter side; respectively. Higher concentration of washing of cotton printed samples of the indicating good to very good washing mordant was not selected due to their marigold dye using different mordants are fastness but brighter shades were non-ecofriendly nature, however, further presented in Table-3. obtained. increase in mordant concentration The result revealed that the brighten the colour. washing fastness grades of printed samples Sunlight fastness Final printing was done with for colour staining was 5 with both the The results highlighted that the 3% chrome and 5% copper sulphate and mordants (Chrome and copper sulphate). light fastness was good to excellent for the samples were subjected to different Hence, it is depicted that there was no all the three dyes as their score ranged colour fastness tests. staining. The grades for colour change from 4/5 to 5.

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Table 3 : Colour fastness grade of samples printed using optimum printing paste

Dye Mordant Per cent Colour fastness grades mordant Wash Light Dry Wet Conc. CC CS CC CS CC CS

Marigold Without mordant - 3 4/5 4/5 4 3/4 4/5 4/5 Chrome 3 4/5* 5* 4/5 5 4/5 4 4/5 Copper sulphate (5)` 5 4* 5* 5 4/5 4 4 4

*=Brighter than original; CC=Colour change; CS=Colour staining

Dry rubbing fastness highlighted that there was change in Mustard colour was produced when It is evident that the dry rubbing colour of prints with the change of chrome was used as a mordant and olive fastness for colour change and colour mordants. Printing with marigold flower green was obtained on mordanting with staining ranged from 4/5-5. Hence the dye produced silky beige colour. It was copper sulphate. result elucidated that fastness to dry mustard with chrome and olive green with rubbing was very good to excellent for copper sulphate. The effect of mordants References marigold. on colour has also been reported in 1. Mahale G, Sunanda RK and Sakshi, Colour previous researches2-4. fastness of eco dyed cotton with marigold, Wet rubbing fastness Text Trends, 2000, 44(10), 35-39. The results of colour fastness of Conclusion 2. Gupta B and Goel A, A natural dye for silk printed samples using selected mordants The suitability of mordants for printing, Indian Text J, 1997, 107(4), to wet rubbing revealed that the fastness printing cotton with natural dyes varied 76-78. of marigold dye was good as there was no from dye to dye. Two mordants selected 3. Goel B and Chauhan B, Printing with colour change (4) while good to very good for marigold were: chrome and copper Majistha, Indian Text J, 1996, 106(10), with regard to colour staining (4-4/5). sulphate and the optimum mordant 70-72. concentration were 3 and 5 %, respectively. Range of colours obtained by different 4. Goel B and Goel A, Printing of silk, Indian Different mordant produced different Text J, 1997, 107(11), 60-62. mordants colours. Marigold flower dye produced The results of the present study silky beige colour without any mordant.

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