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2015

MUT! APERITIF SPOTS APERITIF BARCELONA’S TOP DISCOVERSTYLE. MORE) ISBACK IN (ANDA VERMOUTH FOR MAKING TIME HOUR HAPPIEST THE ENGLISH EDITION! OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN your vermouth your vermouth live music with for bars the best you We show MORE WHAT’S 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 3 Time Out Barcelona in English The Best June 2015 Barcelona is blessed with kilometres of beaches. And of BCN just outside the city limits are many more, all easily accesible p. 20

Features 14. Appealing appetisers Ricard Martín takes you on a tour of Barcelona via its best spots for an aperitif. 20. On the beaches Want to catch some rays? María José Gómez sets up her parasol and tells us where to go. 24. Carefree eating If you have food allergies, Ricard Martín has a list of restaurants and shops perfect for you. 26. Sebald summed up Josep Lambies guides you through the life of the German author, currently the focus of an exhibition at the CCCB art centre. 28. Sónar sounds

From the stellar line-up at the electronic music SERGEY KELIN festival, Marta Salicrú picks her top ten. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 62. Clubs 64. LGBT

65. Getaways MARIA DIAS MARIA DIAS It’s Sónar time! If you’re off to the electronic music Summer means ice cream, and in Barcelona 66. BCN Top Ten festival, we’ve got the acts you can’t miss p. 28 FGNKEKQWUƂCXQWTUCTGPGXGTHCTCYC[p. 58

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Impressió.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribució S.A.D.E.U. editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Dipòsit legal B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manuel Pérez | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Photo: Moreno, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo CRISTINA [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona RECHE English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD®

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 5 The BCN_JUNE 2015 hot list THURSDAY SATURDAY 04 06 L’ou com balla Festival Vintage Traditions Market To mark Corpus Christi, Head to Encants market eggs dance on fountains. for all things vintage. MARIA DIAS MONDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY 08 11 12 Pet Shop Boys 42nd Conde de Godó Trophy Monster Energy Grand Prix Concert Sailing Sport Iconic duo opens festival International yachting Motorcycles compete at at Pedralbes Palace. contest returns. Catalan track. BARCELONA CULTURA

V Barcelona Burlesque Festival. El Molino welcomes Works & references. This new Fundació Tàpies show has DON’T MISS! some of the world’s best burlesque acts. WED 03-SAT 13 art both by Antoni Tàpies and from his collection. THU 11

SATURDAY TUESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY 13 16 18 19 LKXA Extreme Barcelona Don Pasquale Sónar Summer nights at La Pedrera Sport Opera Music Music Action sports festival – Liceu opera house Renowned electronic Live jazz on the roof of BMX, inline, scooter, etc. stages Italian work. music festival begins. Gaudí’s unique building.

SUNDAY TUESDAY THURSDAY TUESDAY 21 23 25 30 Garmin Barcelona Triathlon Eve of Sant Joan Gaudí nights 2015 Festival Grec inauguration Sport Traditions Music Culture Three-pronged athletic Night-long festivities to Torre Bellesguard hosts Opening event for BCN’s contest around the city. mark summer solstice. cultural evenings. summer arts festival. GARMIN BARCELONA TRIATHLON

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com People of Barcelona Dave Wilkinson What am I Musician, 38 years old doing here?

Jan Fleischer As an English musician, didn’t leaving your country to come to BCN seem a bit risky to you? No, I thought that Barcelona had a Summer quality of life and would inspire me. Now I’ve got lots of work here, Pride and as a base it seems more interesting than Nottingham. It’s June, so it’s time to celebrate Gay Pride. Championing gay rights 9JCVFKF[QWFQVQƁPFVJGTKIJV means doing the same for any vibe and contacts? group that suffers discrimination. I started by going to clubs like The Barcelona Pride festivities have Jamboree and La Cova del Drac, a serious anti-bullying theme this and taking part in jam sessions. year (see page 64), which will My brother Phil and I set up the certainly be the focus of group Phat Fred, and I worked with discussions and demonstrations. the Californian Hook Herrera. Bearing that in mind, it’s clear most people come for the big party. It’s a Why do you say that BCN is an celebration not only of being proud interesting place ‘as a base’? to be gay, but also to encourage Because I don’t live 100 percent open-mindedness and acceptance, in the local scene. I travel as much and to be the individual you are. in Spain as I do in Europe. Four Live and let live, in other words.

years ago I signed with a Dutch MARIA DIAS In Barcelona (and all of Spain), label with my singing-songwriting same-sex couples have had the project under the name David Is Barcelona a connection point legal right to marry since July 2005, Philips, and I tour a lot in Holland, between US musicians and the but there’s still opposition, so while Belgium, Switzerland... I take 40 European circuit? this is a ‘tolerant’ community – I ƂKIJVUC[GCTCPFURGPFJCNHO[ Yes, that’s exactly what happened term I’m not partial to, as it implies time out of town. with Caspar – we brought US there’s an issue that has to be musicians to play in Europe and tolerated – there’s a long way to go. And what do you think of local we set up bands with them here. Sure the road has been paved for audiences? youth to come out as LGBT earlier I don’t have much of one – I only AN OBJECT: BALCONIES It saves them the cost of bringing than in past generations, yet there’s do three or four solo concerts a IN POBLE-SEC their bands with them. still the need for an anti-bullying year. I don’t know why, perhaps He associates them with his Yes, which is no small matter. In theme in the year 2015. because it’s acoustic guitar music neighbourhood, which he likes as Barcelona, there are a lot of Whether you plan to attend or the that relies a lot on the lyrics. I just it’s quiet and cosmopolitan. musicians playing blues and jazz parade surprises you on the street, brought out my fourth album, – locals and foreigners. That’s join in – you’ll be in the midst of the while I also have a blues-rock how a lot of us make our living. I most positive and freeing party of project, King Pug, with the do less of that now because I’m the year, which just happens to drummer Caspar St. Charles. focused on my own project. KPXQNXGCDWPEJQHƂQCVUYKVJVJG costume-clad and the half-naked You’ve participated in a lot of So you never think, If I’d stayed in enjoying their similarities and projects with international the UK, things would be better? differences, and generally having a musicians such as Jeff Young, No, I’m happy about how dazzling time. Oh, and wear purple the Steely Dan keyboardist. PLACE OF ORIGIN: everything’s gone. I live in BCN, to show your solidarity. It’s the Yes, and with Brian Jackson, who COSSALL (UK) and at the same time I travel a lot, colour that stands for ‘spirit’ in the FKFVJGƁTUV)KN5EQVV*GTQPFKUEU Close to Nottingham in the and travelling is a natural part of a LGBT rainbow, and it represents and played with Kool & The Gang, English Midlands. ‘The forests of musician’s life. There’s a public this year’s bully-free theme. Charlie Wood, who was the organ Robin Hood,’ he jokes. HQTGXGT[VJKPICPFKH[QWECPoVƁPF player for Albert King, and George it here, you look for it elsewhere. Jan will be on the road Brave, saxophonist from the Blue during Pride 2015 Note label in the ’60s. –Jordi Bianciotto

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 7 Explore the impressive Born Cultural Centre. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA

Head to the hills to enjoy Gaudí’s iconic Park Güell.

Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agustí Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Born Cultural Centre you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron and shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to take breakfast among the tree-lined glass structure built in 1876 as a home. As you’re strolling through Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Eixample Esquerre. market. From there you can stop in the streets, keep an eye out for Ivori Chino’, the Raval has inspired Velodromo (Muntaner, 213) at the spectacular Santa Maria del (Mirallers, 7), an exquisite shop many a writer. Nowadays, it’s opens at 6am, for those of you Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1), with local designs, On Land a place where local really keen to get going, while a local favourite and setting for (Princesa, 25), where both men businesses thrive in the form Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189) many a wedding. Just next to that is CPFYQOGPECPƁPFPGYVJTGCFU of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and the Fossar de les Moreres, a and Studiostore (Comerç, 17), with restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet square that might not be much to everything from clothes and maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once look at, but which has great eyewear to original cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, UKIPKƁECPEGVQVJGRGQRNGQH Urban culture is booming jump on public transport and Barcelona; it was built over a here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural cemetery where those who died 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book in ƁIJVKPIVQFGHGPFVJGEKV[KPVJG Time to eat advance on www.parkguell.cat to 1714 Siege of Barcelona were For dinner, try the Asian tapas at ensure you get in to the buried. The square features an Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll varied gastronomy choices. To top ‘monumental’ zone and save a GVGTPCNƂCOGVQJQPQWTVJG melt in your mouth. Always a sure off the night, head in the direction euro. Bonus! memory of the fallen. thing is eating in one of the city’s of the sea and have a drink in fresh markets, such as Santa Absenta (Sant Carles, 36), the Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambo, 16) UWTGƁTGYC[VQIGVCIQQFPKIJVoU 12:00-14:00 17:00-19:30 with its attention-drawing rooftop, sleep, the more upscale Zahara Gracious living Sustenance and shopping or try Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Borbó, Grab a bite down the hill in Stop for a break in one of the Born’s 21), which isn’t actually a market 69) or Café de los Angelitos Gràcia, at the woodsy and lesser-known squares, such as but an upscale food hall with 16 (Almirall Cervera, 26). spacious Café Salambó (Torrijos,

DO YOU KNOW? 6QOCTMVJGUWOOGTUQNUVKEGQPVJGPKIJVQH,WPG CPFYGOGCPCNNPKIJV %CVCNCPUUGVQHHƁTGYQTMUCPFƁTGETCEMGTU

8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS

Visit BCN’s cemeteries to see the elaborate memorials.

51) or at La Pubilla (Pl. de la (Diagonal, 332). Alternatively, plentiful gardens, including the Llibertat, 23) that specialises in take the metro from the Sagrada 19:30-02:00 Jardins del Teatre Grec (Pg. Santa old-school local food, or if the Família (L5) to the Diagonal stop Big night out Madrona, 39) and the Jardins weather’s nice, in a square such and stroll down Passeig de Try the out-of-this-world double Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, 2), and as Plaça del Diamant or Plaça de Gràcia to just hit the terrace of Invisible-Pizza Ravalo the hillside cemetery with its many la Virreina. While you’re in the modernisme biggies: La (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa ornate and contemplative area, have a look around for Pedrera (Provença, 261), Casa Carles for a healthy vegetarian memorials to the dead. some unusual souvenirs in the Amatller (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and option (Jovellanos, 2), or the Med shop-lined streets – suggestions Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). banquet that is Lo de Flor (Carretes, include Pinc Store for clothes 18). After lining your stomach, stop 13:00-15:00 (Encarnació, 24) and Magnesia for drinks in Tahiti or Negroni in the End on a beach spot (Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé bar-laden C/Joaquín Costa (39 and Take the cable car from Montjuïc to Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for 46, respectively), and then ease on Barceloneta, where you can relax homewares. WANDER OFF FQYPVQVJGFCPEGƂQQTUCV#RQNQ with a vermouth and a paella. Most (Nou de la Rambla, 113) or Marula restaurants in Barceloneta Many visitors stick to the 'UEWFGNNGTU DGHQTGƁPCNN[ specialise in seafood, taking 14:30-18:00 central areas, but the city is so calling it a night. advantage of the nearby Med. Due Explore modernisme much more. Gràcia is full of to the prime real estate, some of Next stop: the Sagrada Família. life at all hours of the day, the better spots aren’t cheap, but if Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very Sarrià retains much of its 10:00-12:00 [QWoTGHGGNKPIƂWUJVJG[oTGYQTVJKV crowded, but take your time to historical small-town feel, Mountain climbing Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La appreciate his vision. Once while Poble-sec and Sant Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) done, walk over to Av. Diagonal Antoni are currently the places Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan to keep the modernisme theme to be, thanks to their top mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró de Borbó, 65). A great place for the going by stopping at Casa de les cuisine and quality nightlife. Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), more budget-conscious, with a Punxes (Rosselló, 260), Palau And not forgetting the hilltop the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy del Baró de Quadras (Diagonal, theme park of Tibidabo. nearby constructions from the dishes to go with their relaxed vibe, 373) and Casa Planells 1992 Games or walk around the is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).

The tradition that night is to eat coca (typical Catalan cake with candied fruit) and drink cava. Unsurprisingly, June 24 is a public holiday.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 9 Tourism Desk

Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes

Columbus viewpoint Get ready to taste Barcelona from another angle!

The Columbus Monument head back down and taste stands at the end of La four of the best Catalan cava Rambla, just on the seafront. and wine varieties in the Take the lift inside the monument’s wine-tasting column to the viewing gallery URCEGYJGTG[QWoNNCNUQƁPF at the top, some 60 metres information about things to up, where you can enjoy do and wine tourism in stunning 360º views of the Catalonia. city and the port. Buy your tickets at: When you’ve seen the sights, bcnshop.com Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the city cosmopolitan city that offers centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You’ll be and gastronomic excursions; DELICIOUS EXPERIENCES UWTRTKUGFCVYJCV[QWECPƁPF panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the bcnshop.com tours or themed routes through website and the Turisme de URGEKƁEFKUVTKEVUEQQMKPI Barcelona Tourist Information workshops, wine and chocolate Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for the There are many ways to visit little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings such as the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música, or to museums, taking partner – and a multitude of advantage of the ArTicket or reasons to come here: the Barcelona multi-tickets, with free culture, cuisine, music, art... transport and discounts; and Whether you’re planning to babysitting services, wheelchair, see the best-known attractions pram and pushchair hire, in In Barcelona Near Barcelona or are looking for a truly special addition to the standard left- Stimulate your senses with these Treat yourself to a gastronomic experience, at bcnshop.com luggage services and airport foodie activities – discover the wine or cava experience in Sitges, [QWoNNƁPFOQTGVJCP transfers. secrets of jamón, try tapas on a Montserrat, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia suggestions to suit a wide range There are many Barcelonas to walking tour, enjoy a guitar concert or Alella. Combine your visit with of tastes. explore. Which one is yours? with a glass of wine, travel back in bike tours, human towers, cheese You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of time with a medieval dinner... or chocolate tasting and more. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are bcnshop.com. Buy your tickets at bcnshop.com guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the bcnshop.com

10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 11 Get this timeout.com/barcelona

Dine at the best restaurants Book a table through our website and enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the city. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN MIQUEL COLL MOLAS Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info on what to do while 6JGCVTGƁNOFCPEGHGUVKXCNUEQPEGTVU you’re in town kids’ shows... 1PQWTYGDUKVG[QWoNNƁPFFGVCKNUCDQWVYJCVoUQPTKIJVPQYCPFWRVQ You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website, date info about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new events whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun. ECPIGVFKUEQWPVUIGV[QWTVKEMGVUGCTN[CPFDGPGƁVHTQOURGEKCNQHHGTU

Discover top ideas for exploring the Costa Daurada just outside Barcelona: Explore the bustling and varied neighbourhoods of Barcelona where to eat, what to do... at www.timeout.com/barcelona/costa-daurada. at www.timeout.com/barcelona/by-area.

12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 13 VERMOUTH AND BEYOND

The quest for the perfect aperitif is the ideal excuse to explore Barcelona. Here are five walking tours that take you to the heart of the city – and back in time for dinner.

By Ricard Martín 2JQVQUIván Moreno

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KIR ROYAL AND OYSTERS

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Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 17 LA BODEGA D’EN JCFRNGPV[QHUCNGUTGRUVT[KPIVQVCMGWUHQTC RAFEL TKFG$WVYGoTGNQ[CNVQVJGDTCPFVJCVRWVUDTGCF QPQWTVCDNGoUJGVGNNUOG+FTKPMCUJQTVINCUU UVTCKIJVWRsKVoUGZEGNNGPVsYJKNGUJGGZRNCKPU nPQUQFCYCVGTPQKEGEWDGUPQVJKPIDGECWUGC YGGMGPFCHVGTPQQPJGTGKUNKMGCYCTo'XGT[FC[ VJG[OCMGVJGKTQYPUCWEGVQUGTXGYKVJETKURU CPFHTGUJUCPFYKEJGU$WVCHVGTOKFFC[CNNG[GU VWTPVQVJGDQCTFNKUVKPIVKPPGFFGNKECEKGUCPF VJGKTQYPURGEKCNEQODQUYKVJKTTGUKUVKDNGVTGCVU UWEJCUCTVKEJQMGUYKVJXKPGICTEWTGF CPEJQXKGUOQKZCOCYKVJEJGGUGCPFUVWHHGF EWEWODGTU6JKUKUVJGTGCNFGCN +VYQWNFDGWPHCKTVQNCDGNVJG/QPVGTQUoDCTC OGVCXGTOWV+PVJGUGVYQDTQVJGTUHTQO VJG%CVCNCPVQYPQH.C.NCIQUVCVQQMQXGTBar Bodega Quimet 8KE CPFCNQPIYKVJVJG /QTTQ(KVTKQVJG[JCXGDGGPMG[RNC[GTUKPVJG TGIGPGTCVKQPQHVJGCRGTKVKH6JGDCTJCUPoVNQUV CPKQVCQHKVUFWUV[EJCTODWVVJG[JCXGCFFGF CDCVVCNKQPQHJKIJSWCNKV[VKPPGFIQQFUCPF RKEMNGUCPFVJGKTQYPQTKIKPCNEQODQUsCEQPƁV QHRGCTVQOCVQGUYKVJUCNVEQFCPFJCOHQT GZCORNGsCPFRQRWNCTOKZGFRNCVVGTUHQTa VJGJQWUGURGEKCNKPENWFGUVWPCEQEMNGUTC\QT ENCOUTQCUVRGRRGTUCPEJQXKGUCPFpa amb tomàquet V[RKECN%CVCNCPCEEQORCPKOGPVQH DTGCFUOGCTGFYKVJVQOCVQ #PFVJGKTCTO[QH YKPGUD[VJGINCUUKUCUKIJVHQTUQTGG[GU6JG[ VGNNOGVJCVVJGOKPWVGCRGTKVKHKUTCTGJGTG n#VVJGYGGMGPFYGJCXGVQVJTQYRGQRNGQWVCV ƁXGsUQOGCTGJGTGHQTVJTGGJQWTUCVCIQoLa Bodega Lo Pinyol 6QTTGPVFGNo1NNC JCU DGGPTGHWTDKUJGFYKVJCRGTUQPCNVQWEJVJG YQTMQHVYQCTVURTQOQVGTU[QWECPRQRKPHQT CPCRGTKVKHCPFƁPFCENCUUKECNEQPEGTV CIUTAT VELLA OKPWVGDCT#NNVJGKTXGTOQWVJKU;\CIWKTTGQP VCRCPFCUYGNNCUCPGCTVJGPYCTGFKUJHWNNQH +P%KWVCV8GNNC[QWoNNƁPFRGTRNGZGFICIINGUQH CTVKEJQMGJGCTVUUVWHHGFYKVJOKPEGCPFHQKG SPECIAL #04 XKUKVQTUEQPVGORNCVKPIUNKEGUQHOQKZCOCCUKH ITCUVJGKTQYPVCMGQPVJGRQVCVQbombaCPF KVYGTGVJGTGOCKPUCO[VJQNQIKECNDGCUV QVJGTJQVFGNKECEKGUsWRVQFKHHGTGPVFKUJGUs RKPPGFCPFOQWPVGFQPCCEQEMVCKNUVKEM#PF QPGQHVJGKTOQUVUWEEGUUHWNCRRGVKUGTUKUC LOCAL SPIRIT KVoUVTWGCPCRGTKVKHJGTGOGCPUDTCXKPIVJG OKZGFRNCVGQHEQEMNGUTC\QTENCOUQNKXGUVWPC ETQYFUDWVYGECPoVNGVVJKUFKUEQWTCIGWUHTQO OWUUGNUCUUQTVGFUJGNNƁUJCPFescavalida +H[QWYCPVVQFKUEWUU%CVCNCPRQNKVKEUQT XKUKVKPIVGORNGUNKMGBar del Pla /QPVECFC TQCUVRGRRGTCPFCWDGTIKPGUCNCF HQTQPN[a RWVUQOGJCKTQP[QWTEJGUVPQVJKPIDGCVU ENQUGF/QP YJGTGVJG[RTKFGVJGOUGNXGUQP sCPFKFGCNHQTVYQVQUJCTG CHGYINCUUGUQHbarrejasNKVGTCNN[ CPF ETGCO[FTCHVDGGTYKPGUD[VJGINCUUCPF #NNVJGJKIJƂQYPVCNMsCNKVVNGUPQDDKUJVQVGNN QOKPQWUN[ nOKZVWTGo*GTGoUKVoUVJG ETGCVKXGVCRCU1TCVVJGQVJGTGZVTGOGVJG VJGVTWVJsCDQWVVJGUWRGTNCVKXGSWCNKV[QH EQODKPCVKQPQHCPKUGGFNKSWGWTCPFUYGGV UKORNKEKV[CPFCWUVGTKV[QHBar La Plata /GTEÄ XGTOQWVJHTQO6CTTCIQPCCPFVKPPGFHQQFUYKVJ /QUECVGNYKPGVJCVYTGCMUJCXQEFWTKPI ENQUGF5WP COCVEJDQZQHCDCTYJGTG EQQNOCTMGVKPIECORCKIPUKUDTQWIJVVQGCTVJ VJG2CVWOKP$GTIC UGGRCIG $GUV [QWoNNUQOGVKOGUƁPF(GTTCP#FTK¼JKOUGNH YKVJCETCUJYJGPYGETQUUVJGVJTGUJQNFQHLa CEEQORCPKGFD[QPGQHVJGKTJGCTV[VCRCU GPLQ[KPIVJGKTHTKGFCPEJQXKGUCPFVTCFGOCTM Vermuteria del Tano ,QCP$NCPSWGU 9G LA MASIA VQOCVQQPKQPCPFCTDGSWKPCQNKXGUCNCF#PFKH CTGUGTXGFD[EQQYPGT/CTKEGNCPFHGGNCUKH Elisabets, 16. T. 93 302 24 30 [QWJCXGVJGUVCOKPCVQUGGMQWVCTGHWIGKP UJGYGTGYGNEQOKPIWUKPVQJGTQYPJQOGPQV 1RGPFCKN[COCO VJGDWUKGUVRCTVQHVJG)ÎVKELa Cala del CUKHUJGYGTGFQKPIWUCHCXQWTCUKUCNNVQQ Vermut %QRQPUCPF/CIFCNGPGU JCU QHVGPVJGECUGn9GoXGDGGPUGTXKPIVJGUCOG ƁTUVTCVGseitons YJKVGXKPGICTEWTGF %COROCP[XGTOQWVJHQT[GCTUCPFYGoXG CPEJQXKGU CPFƁPGN[UNKEGFJCO

HANDY REFERENCE GUIDE EQOOKVVGFFTKPMGTKUQPGQHVJG The Modern Drunkard  C DGUVDQQMUGXGTYTKVVGPCDQWV UCVKTKECNVQOGD[(TCPM-GNN[4KEJ DQQ\G'XGT[VJKPIKVEQPVCKPUECP BONUS TRACK QPIGVVKPIRNCUVGTGFFGVCKNKPI DGCRRNKGFVQCRGTKVKHUVQQ+H[QW CNNVJGTKVWCNUCPFTQWVKPGUQHVJG ƁPFCEQR[JCPIQPVQKV

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LIFE’S A BEACH

Barcelona has kilometres of beaches within the city limits. And many more not far away. Here’s our pick of the bunch

BARCELONETA

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Sant Sebastià The beachfront of Ciutat Vella, located over the MAR BELLA road from the Old Port, also includes what was historically known as Sant Miquel Beach, which corresponds to a large section of the coastline along the Barceloneta neighbourhood. Welcome to more than one kilometre of sand and sea, walking distance from the city centre, DO’S & DON’TS where locals and visitors come together. The part farthest to the southwest, at the foot of the - Keep your belongings close on the W Hotel, provides a perfect view of the entire beach, as thieves like to take advantage Barcelona coastline, from the three chimneys to of people swimming or being distracted by the huge solar panel in the Fòrum grounds, plus building sandcastles. the Olympic Port and Barceloneta Beach in - Going topless is no problem, but it’s best between. The area in front of the two huge to stick to the designated nudist areas if URQTVUENWDUKUCPWPQHƁEKCNPWFKUVDGCEJCPF you want to go the full monty. there’s even a gay zone. - Don’t forget to put your rubbish in the Transport: Bus 14, V17, 39, 40, 45, 51, 57, bins provided. And if you’re a smoker, 59, 64 & 157; Metro Barceloneta (L4) don’t leave your butts in the sand. Services: Parking, bathrooms, showers, NOVA ICARIA lifeguard, beverage & ice cream vendors, information point, beach lounger and umbrella rental. lifeguard, support for people with disabilities, volleyball court, playground, lockers, beverage Nova Icària vendors, restaurants, information point, bicycle The creator of the Eixample area of Barcelona, Barceloneta rental, and beach umbrella and lounger rental. Ildefons Cerdà, also had a utopian dream for a After Sant Sebastià, Barceloneta Beach is the city that he planned to call Icària, like the ideal city’s biggest and most traditional. It is named island imagined by the French socialist and after the seafaring neighbourhood par Mar Bella philosopher Étienne Cabet. The Olympian excellence, built during the 18th century by At the beginning of the 20th century, this part dream brought back this Nova Icària (New Barcelona residents expelled from La Ribera of the coast already had baths, the Baños de la Icària), now one of the most popular city after the fall of the city to Bourbon troops. In Mar Bella, but eventually they were destroyed beaches. It’s 400 metres in length and lies addition to its maritime past, Barceloneta also in a storm. At the time, the city’s residents held right in the middle of the Barcelona coastline. had strong connections to the metallurgy and this strip of beach in high regard, but it fell on Along with Bogatell Beach, it’s one of the ICUKPFWUVTKGUYJKEJCTGUVKNNTGƂGEVGFKPUQOG hard times in the ’50s. The coastal renewal calmest. For decades, the area taken up by the of the names found in the area as well as by the process that began with the 1992 Olympic beach was known as Somorrostro, a gas breakwater that divides the beach in two. Games brought back the beaches of Mar Bella neighbourhood where thousands of families The construction of the seafront promenade at and Nova Mar Bella. The former combines two lived in improvised homes lacking even the the end of the last century connected this old very different areas: a nudist beach at one end most minimal services. The new beach has neighbourhood with the Olympic Port. It also and a children’s playground (with a very original erased almost every trace of its existence, but meant the loss of the popular chiringuitos UNKFG CVVJGQVJGT;QWoNNCNUQƁPF[QWPIRGQRNG a nearby street honours the memory of Carmen (beach bars) where locals made paella on playing football and volleyball. #OC[CVJGNGIGPFCT[ƂCOGPEQFCPEGTYJQ Sundays prior to the Olympic frenzy. These Transport: Bus 36 and 71; Metro Selva de was born there. FC[U[QWoNNƁPFQVJGTV[RGUQHTGUVCWTCPVUCPF Mar (L4) Transport: Bus 6, 36, 41, 92; Metro Ciutadella services in the area below the promenade. Services: Parking, bathrooms, showers, & Bogatell (L4) Transport: Bus 10, 14, V17, 36, 39, 40, 45, lifeguard, volleyball court, workout area, ping Services: Parking, bathrooms, showers, 51, 57, 59 & 64; Metro Barceloneta & pong tables, skate park, lockers, beach library, lifeguard, volleyball court, playground, lockers, Ciutadella (L4) beverage vendors, and beach umbrella and beverage vendors, and beach umbrella and Services: Parking, bathrooms, showers, lounger rental. Nudist area. lounger rental.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 21 OUTSIDE THE CITY

Sant Sebastià Just some 30 minutes by train from Barcelona, this beach is between the old town and the port in Sitges, nestled in a neighbourhood with a JKUVQT[CUCƁUJKPIXKNNCIG+VoUCHCOKN[DGCEJ frequented by locals, with more than 200 metres of coastline. From your spot on the sand [QWECPVCMGKPOCIPKƁEGPVXKGYUQHVJGVQYP The beach offers an array of services and is adapted for disabled visitors. Getting there: About every 15 minutes there’s a Rodalies de Renfe train that joins Barcelona (Sants or Passeig de Gràcia stations) to Sitges. Platja de Morer Located at the northern part of the town of Sant Pol de Mar, this beach runs parallel to the train tracks and the N-II motorway. The beach is 750 metres of coarse golden sand that narrows as it goes eastward. Located above the highway are the Roman ruins of Morer, a centre of wine RTQFWEVKQPHTQOVJGƁTUVEGPVWT[6JGDGCEJKU equipped with showers, a Red Cross station, drinking fountains, and wooden walkways for the physically disabled. Getting there: From Catalunya station take the Rodalies de Renfe train to Sant Pol de Mar. SANT SEBASTIÀ, SITGES From the station, you can walk along the seafront (Av. del Doctor Furet). Garraf Sant Simó This beach is 380 metres long with a mixture This beach is in the north of Mataró, between BEST WAY TO TRAVEL QHƁPGUCPFCPFTQEMUYKVJCUNKIJVKPENKPGCV the Sant Simó riverbed and the town of Sant the sea’s entrance. Between the beach and Andreu de Llavaneres. It’s got 1,100 metres of the train tracks lies the area that gave this .QECNVTCKPUGTXKEGUVGPFVQDGGHƁEKGPV white sand, but it’s quite narrow, appearing to DGCEJKVUPCOGCMKPFQHƁUJKPIXKNNCIGDWKNV and on time. If travelling in a group, you lose width towards Sant Andreu de Llavaneres. practically on the beach itself. The remodelled OKIJVƁPFVJGDGUVFGCNKUVQDW[C6 The beach is divided into a family zone – closer wooden cabanas are old sheds that were used ticket for the relevant zone you’re heading to Mataró – where the majority of services such D[ƁUJGTOGPVQUVQTGVJGKTGSWKROGPV to. These ten-journey tickets can be as showers and snack bars are found. The area Services include showers, toilets and rescue shared by up to ten people. Sitges and farther away is meant for a more ‘natural’ equipment, and loungers, parasols, and Mataró are zone 4 (although in opposite experience, which can prove interesting for paddle boats are available for rent. There are directions), Garraf is zone 3 and Sant Pol those who enjoy snorkelling. also a few restaurants overlooking the beach. de Mar, zone 5. For Sitges and Garraf, take Getting there: Take the Rodalies de Renfe Getting there: Take the Rodalies de Renfe the train bound for Sant Vicenç de train to Mataró from Catalunya station. The from Sants or Passeig de Gràcia to Garraf Calders, and for Mataró and Sant Pol de beach is 1.3 km from the station, but the bus station. Take a train heading for Sant Vicenç Mar, it’s the train heading to Blanes. No. 3 will take you to the Sant Simó stop, just de Calders, but check before you board 100 metres from the main beach entrance. because they don’t all stop in Garraf.

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Allergy-friendly BCN! If you have food allergies or intolerances you’ve got a growing range of options in Barcelona. By Ricard Martín Photography Ivan Giménez

IL PICCOLO FOCONE

without the Catalan picada breadcrumb base CFCRVGFVQOCMGVJGOCNNGTI[HTKGPFN[#PFKH sometimes used) are three unbeatable we’re talking about traditions, El Gat Blau RESTAURANTS options for people allergic to gluten, dairy or (Consell de Cent, 139) is also a safe option. eggs who are also fans of great food. But if Chef Pere Carrió works with local organic there are kids in the party, the safest bet is produce, and adds his creative touch to For anyone with allergies or food intolerances, pizza: Il Piccolo Focone (Dos de Maig, 268. T. TGCUQPCDN[RTKEGFFKUJGUVJCVKPENWFGCNQY going out for a meal can be anything but fun. In 93 450 24 52) is the only place in the city VGORGTCVWTGEQPƁVQHQEVQRWUYKVJLQYNDCEQP BCN it’s often the traditional soupy, stewy FGFKECVGFJGCTVCPFUQWNVQINWVGPHTGGRK\\CU and rosemary, which is free of dishes that are most suitable. 6JG[QHHGTRK\\CUCPFHTGUJƁNNGFQTFTKGF gluten, dairy and egg. pastas, as well as risottos and puddings. Allium (Call, 17. T. 93 302 30 03) is a model Owner Eloy Caicedo tells me that 15 years of its kind. Owner Jordi Casanovas, a ago, back in Ligúria, he got together with other passionate champion and pioneer of the ‘km pizza makers to devise a standard dough for CAFÉS 0’ concept, tells us that what gives him most INWVGPHTGGRK\\CU6QFC[JGOCMGUCP satisfaction is to see someone tucking in updated version, with cornmeal, buckwheat At the temple to dairy JCRRKN[n2GQRNGUGPFOGGOCKNUCPF+ƁPG and potato starch. He describes it as a light produce that is Granja Viader tune the menu as much as I can.’ His biggest dough, because ‘a normal pizza takes two (Xuclà, 4-6), the lactose-intolerant may CNNGTI[HTKGPFN[JKVKUVJGDCVVGTGFUSWKF hours to digest, whereas this one only takes not be able to partake of a suís (hot CNVJQWIJ[QWoNNCNUQƁPFFKUJGUUWKVCDNGQT half an hour’. Bingo! It looks like a typical chocolate topped with whipped cream), adapted for coeliacs and diners with dairy, Neapolitan pizza, but it’s light and crunchy with but they can sample the thick, Spanish- soya, nut or egg allergies. His amazing no trace of rubberiness. Delicious. The spicy style hot chocolate, made only with breaded artichokes, locally sourced in El Prat sausage topping – all the cured meats here water, cocoa, chocolate and cinnamon. FGN.NQDTGICVCTGOCFGYKVJEJKEMRGCƂQWT CTGINWVGPHTGGsIQGUUVTCKIJVKPVQO[VQRVGP It also has plenty of coeliac-friendly while none of his sauces contain dairy However, if you want a traditional dining edibiles: their home-made chocolates, products, and his selection of cured meats GZRGTKGPEGVJCVKUCNUQCNNGTI[HTKGPFN[[QW URQPIGƁPIGTUEJGGUGECMGUcrema CPFUCWUCIGUKURGTEGPVINWVGPHTGG need have no fear of making a reservation at catalana and creme caramels are 6JGCNNGTI[HTKGPFN[QRVKQPUCVCa l’Estevet 4 Capellans, the restaurant at the Hotel 100-percent gluten-free. At Syngluten (Valldonzella, 46.T. 93 302 41 86) are also Barcelona Catedral (Capellans, 4). (Galileu, 115) they make delicious rooted in Catalan tradition: bacallà a la llauna 5WTRTKUKPIN[HQTCHQWTUVCTJQVGNVJGOGPW gluten-free churros con chocolate – you sRCPDCMGFUCNVEQFsVJG%CHÅFG2CTKU offers great value for money. Few of the main can get them lactose-free too. entrecôte and the Paella Parellada (made dishes cost more than €10, and most can be

24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com JO TAMBÉ SÓC AL·LÈRGIC

allergy, and the shop is great fun for kids: there are chocolate bars and chocolate SHOPS spreads without the ominous warning, ‘may BREAD EQPVCKPVTCEGUQHPWVUoFCKT[HTGGKEGETGCO CPFINWVGPHTGGRK\\CCPFRCUVTKGU6JGYQTNF There’s only one Barcelona If an allergy triggers anaphylactic shock, it QHCNNGTI[HTKGPFN[HQQFUKUCUOCNNQPGCPF bakery exclusively dedicated can be fatal. A food intolerance can cause many of the brands are also run by the to gluten-free bread: Celiadictos (La serious discomfort. Shops that cater to parents of children with allergies. Canturri Pobla de Lillet, 5. T. 93 409 31 31), people with allergies have to know their stuff. wrote Mama, em pica! (Mum, I’m itchy!  #PING which also covers dairy intolerances, as 2014), an entertaining chronicle of dogged none of their breads contain milk. Isabel ;QWoTGFGƁPKVGN[KPIQQFJCPFUCVLa persistence against the odds, which also Trullenque says that their products have Botteghina (Clos de Sant Francesc, 55. T. 93 functions as a handy guide to the unwanted nothing to do with cheap ersatz breads 222 95 52): the owner, Silvia Fiorilla, is a KPITGFKGPVU[QWoNNƁPFKPUWRGTOCTMGVDKUEWKVU made from cornmeal. Instead, by biomedical engineer who decided to start her #PQVJGTRQEMGVUK\GFHCOKN[DWUKPGUUKUVJG DNGPFKPIƂQWTUOCFGHTQOINWVGPHTGG own business. The shop is divided into three YGNNGUVCDNKUJGFDietètica Glòria (Entença, grains – eg, quinoa and buckwheat – CTGCUQPGHQTQTICPKERTQFWEVUQPGFCKT[ 175. T. 93 329 92 51), a replica of a they make traditional country loaves, HTGGCPFQPGINWVGPHTGGYKVJCRQKPVYJGTG conventional supermarket for allergy baguettes and sliced loaves that are CNNVJTGGCTGCUKPVGTUGEV;QWoNNƁPFDKUEWKVU sufferers, stocking mostly handmade tasty in their own right. They’re not pasta, bread and Italian delicacies, including products. The shop opened 50 years ago as a cheap: the quinoa loaf costs €13 a kilo, FCKT[HTGGRCPPCEQVVCCPFINWVGPHTGGUCWEGU herbalist’s, and was converted to focus on thanks to international futures markets. sTCIÕCPFUSWCUJQTCTVKEJQMGRGUVQ allergies 25 years later. Eighty percent of their #VJo També Sóc Al·lèrgic (Vilamarí, 26. T. products are aimed at customers with coeliac 93 426 49 48) everything has a personal FKUGCUGDWV[QWoNNƁPFCNKVVNGQHGXGT[VJKPI Gluten Free /CLQTFG5CTTK¼6 touch: Núria Canturri and Joan Riedweg’s son Owner Laura Gràcia is slightly downbeat about 38 72, from 4pm to 6pm) Rosa La Cruz was diagnosed with multiple allergies to milk the future of the human race: ‘We’re getting EQPƁTOUVJKUn$TGCFKUVJGDKIQPIQKPI protein, eggs, seafood and nuts at a young more and more delicate, and seeing more and challenge for coeliac sufferers,’ she says, so age. He’s now 15, but the experience of more combined allergies.’ as well as ready meals, pasta, milk and raising him left his parents with a store of #VCNNVJGUGGUVCDNKUJOGPVU+oOVQNFVJCVC biscuits, she has a good selection of sliced expert knowledge that they have channelled small but growing proportion of their clientele and round loaves. For sweets, the choice is into the shop – ‘It’s like a pharmacy for food,’ KUPQVINWVGPKPVQNGTCPVDWVƁPFUVJCVC clear: at Pappabuble #ORNG GXGT[VJKPI says Canturri. Everything is organised by INWVGPHTGGFKGVOCMGUVJGOHGGNDGVVGT#V KUJCPFOCFGCPFINWVGPHTGG

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 25 A FOR AUSTERLITZ The name of his greatest character, a solitary, enigmatic traveller with blonde hair full of corkscrew curls – the spitting image of the actor who played Siegfried in Fritz Lang’s SEBALD Die Nibelungen (The Nibelungs, 1924) – who wears hiking boots and carries a suitcase full of erudite documents, and whiles away the hours in the waiting room at Antwerp’s Centraal Station. It’s also the title of Sebald’s masterpiece, the story of an orphan who has lost both his home and his mother tongue, an escapee from the ruins of ABC Old Europe, a 20th-century vagabond hopping from train to train.

Now on at the CCCB art centre is an exhibition B FOR BATTLES about the life, work and legacy of German writer Massacres, catastrophes, destruction. 9)5GDCNF*GTGCTGVGPMG[UVQJKUWPKXGTUG These terms appear frequently in Sebald’s work – both the prose and the poetry. One of By Josep Lambies JKURQGOUTGƂGEVUQPn6JG$CVVNGQH Alexander at Issus’ by Albrecht Altdorfer, one of the jewels in the crown of the Alte Pinakothek art museum in Munich. The frenzied war painting is a melee of horses, spears and dead bodies, surmounted by a dome of boiling clouds and a blood-red sun, CUKHVJGICVGUQHJGNNJCFDGGPƂWPIQRGP wide. Sebald had a tendency to be alarmist. C FOR CORRESPONDENCE 5RGEKƁECNN[VJGQPGJGOCKPVCKPGFYKVJJKU childhood friend Jan Peter Tripp, a classmate at the state school in Oberstdorf, later a graphic designer and ƁPGCTVKUV*GFKFCRQTVTCKVQH5GDCNFVJCVKU on display at the CCCB as part of VJGn5GDCNF8CTKCVKQPUoUJQYCNQPIUKFG their letters. D FOR DESIRE As experienced by French writer Stendhal at the age of 17, after he crossed the Saint Bernard pass into Italy with Napoleon’s forces in 1801. Sebald describes how, during the campaign, Stendhal went to see an opera by Cimarosa, and fell in love with the soprano. She had an eye that swivelled outwards and one of her eye teeth was missing. This anecdote, which prefaces Stendhal’s own account of the famous episode at the Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence, is retold by Sebald in the opening chapter of Vertigo, a book that treads a path between essay and fable. In it, the writer sets text and photographs side by UKFGHQTVJGƁTUVVKOG+VoUCOGVJQFVJCVJCU

JAN PETER TRIPP JAN been copied by many others since then.

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com taught at the University of Manchester in the mid-’60s, but it was the University of H East Anglia in Norwich that provided him U FOR HOLOCAUST YKVJCJQOG*GDGECOGCNGEVWTGTVJGTGKP FOR UNTIMELY W.G. Sebald was born on May 18, 1944 in a 1970, and in 1989 was the founding *GUVCTVGFNCVGCPFJGNGHVGCTN[5GDCNFoU small Bavarian village, just days before the director of the British Centre for Literary death was abrupt and premature. On Allied invasion of Normandy, and the epoch 6TCPUNCVKQP*GOCFGJKURWDNKUJKPIFGDWV December 14, 2001, he died at the wheel when all of Germany sought to summon its YKVJn#HVGT0CVWTGoCNQPIRQGOKPVJTGG on a road near Norwich. The coroner UVTGPIVJVQHCEGVJGRQUVYCTRGTKQF*KU parts, when he was 44, and did not begin recorded that the cause of the accident was childhood was haunted by the repressed VQRWDNKUJJKURTQUGƁEVKQPUWPVKNJGYCUKP an aneurysm, which made him lose control burden of the Shoah, by the images of the JKUƁHVKGU6JGƁTUVYCUThe Rings of Saturn QHJKUECT*GYCUDWTKGFKP5V#PFTGYoU concentration camps – what Celan called KPCOKZVWTGQHƁEVKQPGUUC[CPF churchyard at Framingham Earl, in Norfolk. nYQWPFUKPVJGOGOQT[osKPYJKEJ)GTOCP travelogue, set on a walking tour of Suffolk, +PJGTGWNQI[5WUCP5QPVCIYTQVGn*GYCU culture was gassed forever. as the narrator traces a convoluted path one who demonstrates that literature can through East Anglia, a land that is rich in DGNKVGTCNN[KPFKURGPUCDNG*GYCUQPGD[ M ghosts of the past. whom literature continues to live.’ FOR MELANCHOLY .KMG2CWN-GGNoUn#PIGNWU0QXWUoRCKPVKPI P V Sebald walks among the funerary niches of FOR PAST FOR VOYAGES the great necropolis of the western world. Sebald always had a weakness for spirits In 2011, ten years after Sebald’s death, Rebelling against the amnesia with which from the past. In The Rings of Saturn, the ƁNOOCMGT)TCPV)GGOCFGPatience, a Germany had decided to cloak the stigma of narrator sees apparitions from beyond the movie inspired by the gestation process of Auschwitz, he dedicated his work to the grave of Conrad, Chateaubriand and The Rings of Saturn*GRQTVTC[U5GDCNFCU memory of a splendour that had crumbled Borges, among others. But what most a tireless explorer of the south-east coast of like a dry bone. And he went into exile, fascinated him was the idea of the 'PINCPF*GVQQYCU#WUVGTNKV\YKVJJKU alone, because he could not bear to live in anonymous hero, the unknown biography. hiking boots and a sheaf of papers under such a poisoned climate. *GDGECOGKPVGPUGN[KPVGTGUVGFKPVJG his arm – or, as Jorge Carrión put it in Viaje obscure life of the Renaissance painter contra espacio  nCOGVCVTCXGNNGTo Matthias Grünewald. A Bavarian like Many are the routes that could be traced by Sebald, Grünewald was a contemporary of following in Sebald’s footsteps. N Dürer (to whom many of his works were FOR NORWICH attributed for a long time), and his story Sebald Variations is showing at the CCCB 5GDCNFECOGVQCWVJQTUJKRNCVGKPNKHG*G remains a mystery, even today. until July 26. Montalegre, 5. www.cccb.org

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 27 Paul Epworth, Sampha, and Arca, #01 another of Sónar 2015’s notable A$AP ROCKY acts. Sat 20, 11pm, SonarPub This New Yorker is one of the biggest recent stars of the US hip- hop scene. Even before his debut #06 LP Long.Live.A$AP (2013) was out, DURAN DURAN MTV wanted him to perform with Sónar It sounds like a (bad) joke, but this Rihanna. Here he’ll present his iconic ’80s British synth-pop group second album, At.Long.Last.A$AP will be playing in Barcelona on the (2015), featuring collaborations same day as eternal rivals with FKA Twigs and Lykke Li. Fri 19, Spandau Ballet (see page 42). 10.45pm, SonarClub With apologies to Tony Hadley and co., the hits balance comes down Top Ten on the side of Duran Duran – ‘Girls #02 on Film’, ‘Rio’, ‘Notorious’and RÓISÍN MURPHY THE LINE-UP AT THIS YEAR’S ELECTRONIC MUSIC even 1993’s‘Ordinary World’. Sat One half of elegant dance-pop duo 20, 10.30pm, SonarClub Moloko, Murphy is one of the FESTIVAL IS AS EXTENSIVE AND ECLECTIC AS EVER. classier divas from the ’90s. She WE CHOOSE TEN MUST-SEE ACTS. presented her second solo album #07 with a memorable show at Sónar By Marta Salicrú AUTECHRE in 2007. Then things went quiet. Get your Rob Brown and Sean Booth She returned in 2014 with an EP Sónar are a tricky pair to catch live. full of classic Italian pop covers. tickets at The only other time they And this year she’s riding high with www.timeout. played Sónar was in 1996. com/barcelona VJGTGƁPGFJQWUGRQRQHHairless Torchbearers of the prestigious Toys. Fri 19, 11pm, SonarPub 9CTRNCDGNVJG[oTGMG[ƁIWTGUQH IDM and abstract techno. Thu 18, #03 8.30pm, SonarHall HOT CHIP The London group are Sónar #08 regulars, but this edition should be SKRILLEX special because they bring Why 5QPP[/QQTGoUƁTUVnNKXGo5ÏPCT Make Sense? (2015), their sixth show was memorable. The venue album and one of their most solid practically sank with so much drop, collections. And no, that’s not a and Skrillex, riding a toy spaceship polite way of saying the record has CPFKPC$CTÃC6UJKTVRGTUQPKƁGF few hits. The vintage house feel of charisma. This year he’s released the brilliant ‘Need You Now’ will 5MTKNNGZCPF&KRNQ2TGUGPV,CEM¸, have you dancing into oblivion. Fri an album where the likes of Justin 19, 1.15am, SonarPub Bieber and Missy Elliott appear. Fri 19, 3.15am, SonarClub #04 OWEN PALLETT #09 A violinst in the Sónar line-up? In THE CHEMICAL BROTHERS his live shows, Pallett uses the Their live shows are spectacular, violin as much as the looper to and at Sónar they promise to be create avantpop sounds. His hypnotic and hallucinogenic. repertoire includes +P%QPƂKEV, They’re coming to promote their widely praised as one of the best eighth album, $QTPKPVJG'EJQGU, albums of 2014 – the analogic and due in July and featuring St. synthetic pop mix combines with Vincent and Beck. Sat 20, straight-talking lyrics. Fri 19, 1.30am, SonarClub 5.30pm, SonarVillage #10 #05 PXXR GVNG FKA TWIGS The Barcelona-based collective The beautiful and talented (pronounced ‘Poor Gang’) are an producer, singer and dancer underground hip-hop sensation Tahliah Barnett is one of the most and trap pioneers in Spain. Their evocative alternative R&B artists. live shows – stage invasions Her music is narcotic and sensual included – are exciting, and they’ll – and sexually explicit – as heard provide the music to twerk to on on her debut album LP1 (2014), the bumper-car stage. Sat 20,

which includes collaborations with MARIA DIAS 1.40am, SonarCar

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 29 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] Shopping & Style @eugeniasendra The great (Italian) beauty Beautiful Stranger is a new concept store in the Sarrià neighbourhood that aims to awaken emotions through unusual books and design items. By Laia Beltran

‘I looked into your eyes/And my the same way, as well as being world came tumbling down/ decorative, their folded shirts, You’re the devil in disguise’. hot-water bottles, flippers and These lines come from ‘Beautiful white ceramic paint pots can be Stranger’, one of Madonna’s most MARIA DIAS PHOTOS: used as vases or humidifiers. popular songs and the title has ‘Useless is more,’ as Joe provided Laura and Enrico with Velluto says. the name for their concept store in the Sarrià neighbourhood. The Everything has its use shop, which opened in December The title of the cult book Nothing last year, opts for unconventional Useless by Velluto is another of beauty, in the form of books and the sources of inspiration for design objects. Balloons that Beautiful Stranger. Everything in don’t fly and pens that will never the shop has a purpose, run out. Paper bread baskets that depending on how you look at it can’t break and votive offerings and what you use things for. empty of any real meaning. In That’s why they also sell baskets Beautiful Stranger anything mass- and handbags made by produced is given a wide berth. Uashmama, which have been Instead the emphasis is put on created using washable paper emotions, with the aim of that’s very resistant. You’ll also provoking sensory reactions in ƁPFOWNVKEQNQWTJWPVKPIVTQRJKGU wooden birdhouses and embroidered votive offerings, all by Miho. And curious pencil- They avoid the HGCVJGTUOCFGQHKPƁPKVGITCRJKVG by Napkin Forever. And that’s mass produced, before you even start looking at and instead the non-Italian products! Laura and Enrico are also very emphasise keen on artisanal works, as emotions represented in the range of CRAFT PAPER products from L’Erbolario anyone who enters the shop. The products by Uashmama are made (including make-up, perfumes and What you’ll find here is anything using tanned paper that can be hand- air fresheners) and the Catalan that Laura and Enrico would like washed and which keeps its original form brand Teixidors (shawls, blankets, to come across if they themselves (Briefcases, €46.25). scarves and more). Still, the apple were the clients. in their eyes – and, to be honest, Italian designs are the main ours – are the books on design, protagonists – this makes photography and illustration in sense when you consider that English, Italian and Spanish. As the pair are from Rome, even well as Velluto’s bestseller, you’ll though they’ve lived in find treasures such as Demeter by Barcelona for more than a Ana Juan, a spectacular book- decade. Among the brands from sculpture by Hervé Tullet, and their home country, highlights artists’ books from the collection include Creativando, who are STATIC BALLOONS Un Sedicesimo. Be wary, though, specialists at giving new The original ceramic balloons of attacks of Stendhal syndrome. meaning to everyday objects. from Creativando not only look Their balloons don’t float off good but also serve as hangers BEAUTIFUL STRANGER into the sky because they’re for (€39). Jaume Piquet, 12 (Sarrià). hanging things on the wall. In T. 697 385 896

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Shopping & Style You inspire us Kitting out #PGZRNQUKQPQHEQNQWTCPFU[ODQNKUOƁNNUVJGYQTMQH4KECTFQ the kids Cavolo. By Erica Aspas JUST OPENED

‘I dream of painting a whole mountain.’ It seems that Ricardo Cavolo (Salamanca,  KUPoV[GVUCVKUƁGFYKVJ everything that he does. He’s painted murals and had exhibitions all over the world, illustrated books, decorated various means of transport, designed tarot cards and tattoos, and collaborated with HEART, FIRE, EYE different fashion labels. ‘I On his hands are tattoos of need constant contrasts to some of the symbols he uses MARIA DIAS stay awake. I couldn’t focus most but he won’t explain their Overalls, sleeping bags, towels, on just one branch, I need meaning. He says everything bags for toys, wraps for the whole tree!’ Cavolo’s is better with mystery. sandwiches… Finding all the work is extremely personal. ‘essential’ children’s 5VTQPIEQNQWTUƁIWTGU accoutrements these days can outlined in black, intriguing actually be quite fun if you go for characters covered in an entire co-ordinated set of symbols as though they goodies. Such sets are just one were tattoos. Like him. ‘My of the specialities at Vernita, a work is sincere, and in that workshop, studio and shop respect, it’s a clear created by three designers who TGƂGEVKQPQHYJQ+COsYKVJ bring a touch of originality to their lots of energy, light and kids’ products. The limited- directness while trying to edition ranges they design are create a positive ambience.’ made by an association in the *GCTVUYKVJG[GUƂCOGU neighbourhood of the Raval that tears, coins, skulls, sailor IN BARCELONA helps people at risk of social imagery – these are some of Cavolo has recently exhibited his exclusion; the rest of their pieces JKUOQUVWUGFU[ODQNUƁNNKPI work in BCN art centre Mutuo – and commissioned projects – up his pieces, inspired by the (Julià Portet, 5) and given a are created in their new space in art of the outsider, tribal art workshop here. From August, he’ll Poblenou. They’ve kept the and fantasy books. call BCN home. ceiling mirrors that were put up by one of the premises’ previous www.ricardocavolo.com occupants, a shoe shop called Julia, and the collection of colourful trousers from Ebaluh, GET THE LOOK! who also once had a shop there. As well as their own items, Vernita stocks various other CLOTHES THAT DON’T AGE small-scale brands – the cuddly Denim clothes, ‘which are used for creatures from Pipiripops, the wearing and working’, are always in illustrated T-shirts by Thiagatz, his wardrobe. Boo (Bonavista, 2). Japanese-inspired jewellery by Lumaia, and the illustrated diary STYLE AT HIS FEET CAVOLO, DESIGNER from Editorial Mediterrània. Even though here he’s wearing a After collaborating with so many –Eugènia Sendra Barça version, he’s designed various designers, one of his upcoming trainers for Nike. www.nike.com projects is to create his own clothes VERNITA line. His pimped jackets are an Joncar, 27 (Poblenou). example of his plans. T. 686 413 101

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 31 Shopping & Style

Object of desire

TREAT YOUR FEET Naked Skin is the eighth collection from Spanish designer Eva María Bazán and features seasonal must-haves like these light-blue sandals (€180). Buy online or visit the showroom (by appointment). www.evavsmaria.com LIMITED EDITION Leather with silver elements features in Yerse’s latest collection, such as this sport-chic skirt (€190). L’illa Shopping Centre (Av. Diagonal, 557).

Your style Metallic textures shine in the sun and are one of this season’s key looks. By Eugènia Sendra Wood + light = Woodamp

the perfect therapy to counter many hours sitting in front of a THE STAR computer. This clutch from & Other Wood and light are the two key Stories makes a nod to the elements in this project. They ’70s and disco fever. It’s launched with minimalist available in both gold and organic lights made with pine electric blue versions (€35). from the Pyrenees. Next was the Pg. de Gràcia, 8-10. Mazett, innovative flowerpots made using solid wood decorated with a strip of luminescent paint – thanks to FUTURISTIC FEET the wonders of solar power, it Brazilian shoemaker Chie shines in the dark. The latest Mihara celebrates the shiny Making things with your own addition is the Mazett XXL, which side of summer with sandals hands can become an addictive is just as aesthetically pleasing that are fragile and subtle, or pleasure. To the point that what but, as Fran says, it’s ‘bigger, bold and futuristic (€265). starts as a weekend hobby brighter and available in more Sueños Negros (Verdi, 13). becomes your whole way of life. colours’. –L.B. This is what happened to Fran Espinosa and Jesica Valenzuela WOODAMP (who is still working part-time as Nuovum Concept Store a graphic designer). Woodamp Pintor Fortuny, 30 has become their pet project, www.woodamp.com

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Shopping & Style More of a beret fan? Head to Indhy (Elisabets, 13), Heads up! Sombrereria Mil (Fontanella, 20) or If designers are so keen to feature caps in their collections, why deny Obach (Call, 2). yourself this most ur ban, and round, of accessories? By Eugènia Sendra

MADE LOCALLY SHOCK OF COLOUR MATERIAL MATTERS

FOR COLLECTORS WATER DETAIL WITH A CONSCIENCE The creations of Outsiders Division mix fantasy and Twisting coral (a Keith Haring touch) imbues Lacoste At Nudie Jeans, they make pretty hats out of colour. €79.90. Lolos, C/ de la Lluna, 2 Live’s latest collection. €45. Pg. de Gràcia, 51 old jeans. €49. Ramón y Cajal, 2

SIGNATURE CAPS A FRESH LOOK AT DU PASQUIER WAXING LYRICAL Marta Gaeta rethinks the ‘five panel hat’ for Italian design for an all-American accessory. Laser creates their own range with material Modig Bror. €35. Hatquarters, Pl. de la Llana, 6 €35. American Apparel, Avinyó, 7 from Barbour jackets. €38. Doctor Dou, 2

LA CACA MOLA FLOWER POWER PURE GEOMETRY Everything that the Hungry Castle team touch turns to Go tropical with this New Era collaboration. Laura Wass’s creation in silver is a modern- ‘shit’ – and giggles. €29. Studiostore, Comerç, 17 €119. Kenzo in Santa Eulalia, Pg. de Gràcia, 93 day tiara. €487.20. wxyzjewelry.com

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 33 Things to Do

Snifters and snacks – with a soundtrack (QT IGVHCPE[HQQFRCKTKPIU8GTOQWVJQNKXGUCPFNKXGOWUKECTGYJGTGKVoUCV  Maria Junyent heads out for an epic Sunday of ‘vermuts musicals’

GRAN BODEGA SALTÓ everyone to bring a bottle of of essential party tunes, emits afternoon concerts that go on Long before the craze for olive oil for charity Voluntat en GWRJQTKEETKGUYJGPGXGTVJG WPVKNUWPFQYPCNYC[UPQOCFKE vermuts musicals hit the city, #EEKÏYJKEJFKUVTKDWVGUVJGOVQ spirit moves him, and urges on – every party takes place in a before taverns became local people in need. VJGETQYFCUKHJKUNKHG FKHHGTGPVXGPWGsCNYC[UHTGG fashionable hang-outs, and FGRGPFGFQPKV'N4WƁ½PKU YKVJNKXGOWUKEVQMKEMQHHVJG 2QDNGUGEƁNNGFYKVJDCT BAR RUFIÁN YKVJQWVCFQWDVVJGWNVKOCVG proceedings and DJ sessions to terraces and tourists, the 0QVNQPICIQYGYGTGEQPVCEVGF tongue-in-cheek Eurotrash keep them going. Our future QYPGTUQHVJG)TCP$QFGIC D[C/T2CO2QQN&,YJQUG Sunday party. ITCPFEJKNFTGPYKNNTGECNNVJG8GP Saltó (Blesa, 36) had already mission in life is to promote a Tú shindigs their grandparents decided that a civilised aperitif grand festival of aperitifs at El VEN TÚ VQNFVJGOCDQWVYKVJVGCTUKP YQWNFUNKRFQYPGCUKGTVQVJG 4WƁ½P 0QWFGNC4CODNC 6JG[UC[)QFTGUVGFQPVJG VJGKTG[GU(KPFQWVYJGTG accompaniment of an acoustic RKEVWTGFCDQXG KPYJKEJ seventh day, but Ven Tú has VJG[oNNDGVJKUOQPVJCVYYY concert. Dropping by Saltó is a XGTOQWVJ URGEKƁECNN[8GTOWV proved that Sundays are all facebook.com/VenTubcn YQTVJYJKNGQWVKPIKHQPN[VQ Medusa, made in La Secuita in about celebration, and that if a appreciate the friendliness of VJGUQWVJGTP%CVCNCPVQYPQH vermut musical isn’t a party, it’s OLIVIA VERMUTERÍA the staff and the delirious Tarragona), Spritz and Martini nothing at all. Three years after A little over four months ago, kitsch of Steve Forster’s interior duke it out for the title of most VJGƁTUV8GP6ÖCV4CXCN 'NGPCVJGQYPGTQH1NKXKCVQQM design. Every Sunday – and RQRWNCTVKRRNG/T2QQNYJQ&,U DCEMUVTGGVDCT.CU(GTP½PFG\ the intrepid step of launching most Saturdays – there are in a traditional Catalan red-and- there can’t be many people left JGTUGNHKPVQVJGYQTNFQH NKXGUJQYUHTQORO black hat or barretina, delights KPVJGEKV[YJQJCXGPoVUCORNGF catering. She converted an old Admission is free, but they ask VJGRWDNKEYKVJCUGNGEVRNC[NKUV KVUYKPPKPIHQTOWNC5WPFC[ neighbourhood bar on the

34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol

Find more live music events in the city at www timeout. com/barcelona

IVÁN MORENO IVÁN corner of Magalhães and already an institution in Concòrdia (Magalhães, 83) into Poble-sec for the most avid a vermuteríaYJGTG[QWoNNHGGNCV devotees of tapas and JQOGHTQOVJGXGT[ƁTUVUKRQHC XGTOQWVJYJQUJQYWRGXGT[ deliciously light vermouth from 5WPFC[YKVJVJGFGFKECVKQPQH Teruel, or a foaming glass of EJWTEJIQGTUYJQPGXGTOKUU 'UVTGNNC)CNÉEKCDGGTRQWTGF mass. Approximately once a YKVJNQXKPIECTG6JKPIUIGV month, the Sunday aperitif is NKXGN[YKVJVJGCTTKXCNQHVJG accompanied by live soul, jazz YGGMGPF1P5CVWTFC[UKVoU or rumba. 2KPEJC%QTVCOWUKE vermouth and a culinary EL SIGLO – MERCANTIC URGEKCNKV[GXGT[YGGMCPFQP This one-time ceramics factory Sundays the W Sessions – W as KP5CPV%WICVsLWUVQXGT in ‘double V’ for Vinyl and minutes from the centre of 8GTOQWVJ#PFYJGPVJG $CTEGNQPCD[()%VTCKPsYCU temperatures really heat up, converted into a permanent 1NKXKCYKNNJCXGUQOGQHVJG antiques market in the early best shade in Poble-sec. oU'N5KINQKUQPGQHVJG spaces inside Mercantic CAL MARINO #XKPIWFCFG4KWUK6CWNGV  +VoUCPCWVJGPVKEYKPGEGNNCT and, although it started out as a fresh, full of life, and stacked second-hand bookshop, today YKVJDCTTGNUCPFDQVVNGUQHYKPG it’s a cultural hotbed that hosts HTQOƂQQTVQEGKNKPICUKVUJQWNF GZJKDKVKQPUƁNOPKIJVUCPFKP be. Last November, Cal Marino its most recent move, vermouth (Margarit, 54) celebrated its and live music sessions every ƁTUV[GCTKPDWUKPGUUCPFKVoU 5WPFC[HTQORO

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 35 Things to Do

D[.NWÉU&QOGPGEJK/QPVCPGT castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. Castellers of Gràcia practice (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo session Day by day Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Tours in (FGC). English: Wed to Sun 11am. )T¼EKCoU%QNNC%CUVGNNGTCTGJGCTUG various languages; consult for €16. €12.80 (reduced). their spectacular skills. Information and sales: schedule. Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). M: Joanic Tourist Information Points and Sat, Sun, public holidays 10.30am- (L4). Jun 5, 6, 19, 23. 8pm. bcnshop.com 1.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced). Kids

FREE This activity is free Palau de la Música To space and back Kids Tour this emblematic building of 5GG/QP * The dates of league matches Catalan modernisme. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Strategies for living beings may be moved forward or back (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac one day, depending on TV Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). broadcast schedules 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Thursday 4 Saturday 6 Monday 1 Kids Festivals – Traditions Human towers Al fresco To space and back Corpus Christi – L’ou com balla &RTQLGEVKQPUJQYUJQYURCEG In Corpus Christi celebrations all FREE Castellers at Maremagnum FREE Music in the parks: BCN VGEJPQNQI[KUPQYRCTVQHFCKN[NKHG. QXGT%CVCNQPKCDNQYPGIIUCTG *WOCPVQYGTUCPFRKNNCTUCV Municipal Band CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26) M: placed on beautifully decorated YCVGTUKFGUJQRRKPIEGPVTG Inaugural concert in this summer Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Daily 10am-8pm. fountains, appearing to ‘dance’ on (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes EQPEGTVE[ENGYKVJENCUUKECN Activity included in entry fee. VJGYCVGTLGVU6JGVTCFKVKQPKU (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sat music, jazz and more. observed in cloisters and in June. 6.30pm. Parc de l’Espanya Industrial Strategies for living beings courtyards surrounding the (Muntades, 37). M: Sants-Estació )COGUCPFOQFGNUUJQYJQY cathedral. Castellers of Gràcia practice (L3, L5). Noon. www.bcn.cat shapes, colours and behaviour help 8CTKQWUXGPWGUYYYDEPECV session living creatures survive. See Fri 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: M: Joanic (L4). Festival Av. Tibidabo (FGC).Until Jun 21. See Tour web for times: cosmocaixa.com/ Loop Festival agenda. €4. From 5 years. Secret Basilica del Pi Kids Independent platform for video art Night-time visits to the CPFCTVKUVoUƁNOURTGUGPVGFKP VJEGPVWT[$CUKNKECQH5CPVC Interactive visit to ‘Toca, Toca’ unique settings. Tuesday 2 Maria del Pi. (KPFQWVJQYVQRTQVGEVVJGFKHHGTGPV Until Jun 6. Various venues. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, ecosystems of our planet. www.loop-barcelona.com Human towers 7). M: Liceu (L3). Thu, Fri 9.20pm CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: (English). Sat 9.50pm (English). €19 Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun, Castellers practice session (general). €16 (in advance). Info: public hols 10am-8pm. €4. See web Tour *WOCPVQYGTUITQWRUQRGPVJGKT bcnshop.com or www. for info: cosmocaixa.com/agenda. FQQTUUQ[QWECPUGGJQYVJG[ adsentiabarcelona.com. Santa Maria del Mar rooftop rehearse their skilled castle Follow in the footsteps of the )WKFGFVQWTUVQVJGVQRQHVJKU building, and experience the Triceratops JKUVQTKEEJWTEJHQTITGCVEKV[XKGYU activity for yourself. Friday 5 Discover all about the three-horned, (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Various venues. Tue, Thu, Fri. For VQPPGDGCUVCPFQVJGTFKPQU Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm times, www.castellscat.cat. Environment CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: (every hour, last entry 4pm). Sat, €24.20. €20.50 (reduced). Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun, Sun, public holidays 11am to 5pm FREE World Environment Day public hols 10am-8pm. €2. See web (every hour, last entry 4pm).€10 Castellers of Sants practice +PHQTOCVKQPCPFCFXKEGQPJQYVQ for info: cosmocaixa.com/agenda (general). €8 (reduced). Booking: session make your stay in the city more www.riostabarcelona.com. The neighbourhood group ITGGPCUYGNNCUFKUEQWPVQHHGTU rehearse their spectacular skills. 6QWTKUV+PHQTOCVKQP1HƁEG (Pl. Tour Tour of Liceu opera house Cal Borinot (Comtes de Bell-lloc, Catalunya, 17). M: Catalunya Discover Barcelona’s glorious 49). M: Sants-Estació (L3,L5)..Jun (L1,L3;FGC). 10am-6pm. www. Tibidabo theme park | opera house, carefully restored 2, 16, 30 7.30pm. barcelonaturisme.com/sustainable Enjoy a range of fun activities for CHVGTCFGXCUVCVKPIƁTGKP all ages at Barcelona’s historical (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). theme park. Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. Wednesday 3 Human towers (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Andreu). Sant Pau modernista Tour Castellers practice session FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia blau monument| 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, or bus 196. Sat, Sun noon-9pm, 1PEGCYQTMKPIJQURKVCNVJKU Torre Bellesguard | Thu, Fri. For times and availability, 10pm (closing time varies). PGVYQTMQHRCXKNKQPUYCUFGUKIPGF 6QWTUQH)CWFÉoUOQFGTPKUVC www.castellscat.cat. tibidabo.cat

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Things to Do

House-museum Casa Bloc VJKUYQTMUJQRHQTVJGYJQNG Workers’ apartment block, built family. Poble Espanyol (Av. DGVYGGPCPFVJCVKUCP Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: icon of rationalist architecture. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 10.30am- (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: noon. Included in entry fee. Torras i Bages (L1). Sat 11am, 12.30pm. €3 (advance booking Mediterranean tales necessary). Info and booking: Workshops, collectibles, www.museudeldisseny.cat. dioramas. Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Family cinema Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 12.30pm. Family planetarium Step by step + 2 (KPFQWVJQYUCKNQTUWUGUVCTU Six poetic, creative animated and planets to navigate. UJQTVUHQTEJKNFTGPGKVJGTYKVJQWV Maritime Museum (Av. de les dialogue or dubbed in Catalan. Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes CaixaForum Barcelona (Av. (L3). 11.30am, 12.45pm. €4, Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: €2.50 kids. First Sunday of Espanya (L1,L·;FGC). Sat 6, Sun 7. month until Jul 5. 5.30pm. €4. Tour Al fresco FREE Guided tour of FREE Vintage Festival Poblenou Cemetery A market for all things vintage and Explore one of Barcelona’s TGVTQYKVJENQVJGUHWTPKVWTGCPF historical cemeteries. XKP[NCUYGNNCUHQQFUVCNNU (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). YQTMUJQRUCPFMKFUoCEVKXKVKGU 1st and 3rd Sun 10.30am Encants Market (Castillejos, 158). (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish). M: Glòries (L1). June 6-7. www. vintageinbarcelona.com FREE Visit CCCB rooftop terrace FREE Art fair in Plaça Sant See Barcelona from the top of Josep Oriol this city centre building. 1XGTCTVKUVUUJQYVJGKTYQTM (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat HQTUCNGKPVYQRKEVWTGUSWG (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). squares. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del First Sunday of the month. Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Sat 11am- 8pm; Sun 11am-2pm. FREE Baluard Gardens Visit renovated gardens tucked FREE Festa Catalana behind the only remaining Some of Catalonia’s most popular ICVGYC[QHVJGEKV[oUOGFKGXCN cultural activities, including human YCNNU (Av. de les Drassanes, VQYGTUsardana dances (6pm) and s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 1st and nIKCPVUo RO  3rd Sun 11am-2pm. (Av. de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). www.barcelona.cat/culturapopular Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia 5GG/QP (Plaça de Santa Take a trip on a beautifully Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). restored three-masted schooner. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Torre Bellesguard | Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). See Wed 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC).

Sunday 7 Monday 8 Kids Tour

Lego education workshop The Secret Pedrera Put your creativity to the test in &GNXGKPVQVJGEQTPGTUQH)CWFÉoU

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 37 Things to Do

DWKNFKPIYKVJVJKUPKIJVVKOGVQWT 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Nike BCN Firefighters Run (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal 1XGTTWPPGTUCTGGZRGEVGF Al fresco (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Mon- Palau de la Música VQVCMGRCTVKPVJKUMOTQCFTCEG Sun 8.15pm-midnight. €30. 5GG/QP (Palau de la Música, VJCVJCUDGGPIQKPIUKPEG FREE Art show in Plaça Sant 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). www.cursabombers.com Josep Oriol Tour of Liceu opera house See Sat 6. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del 5GG/QP(La Rambla 51-59). M: The Secret Pedrera Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Liceu (L3). See Mon 8. (Provença, 261-265). Saturday 13 M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença Sant Pau modernista monument| (FGC). Tour Sunday 14 5GG/QPHospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Torre Bellesguard | Torre Bellesguard | Tour Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). See Wed 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: See Wed 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Drassanes, history of life A dramatised tour brings to life the Tuesday 9 Secret Basilica del Pi Tour of Liceu opera house city’s medieval Royal Shipyards. See Thu 4. Santa Maria del Pi 5GG/QP(La Rambla 51-59). M: Maritime Museu (Av. de les Human towers Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Liceu (L3). Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). 11am. €10, €7 children. Castellers practice session 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Thu, Human towers Human towers FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Fri. For times and availability, see Cemetery www.castellscat.cat. Castellers practice session FREE Castellers at Maremagnum Visit Barcelona’s hillside graveyard. 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Thu, See Sat 6. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu Fri. For times and availability, www. Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Kids castellscat.cat FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun 11am FREE Festa Catalana (Catalan) and 11.15am (Spanish). To space and back Three different casteller groups 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac Friday 12 $CTEGNQPC%QTPGNN¼CPF5CPV Tibidabo theme park | Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). %WICV UJQYQHHVJGKTVQYGTDWKNFKPI See Sat 6. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Al fresco expertise. (Plaça de la Mercè). M: Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Strategies for living beings Ciutadella–VilaOlímpica (L4). 6pm. Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac FREE Music in the parks: BCN blau or bus 196. Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Municipal band Another open-air concert in one of Traditions the city’s park.Parc de les Aigües Monday 15 Wednesday 10 del Guinardó (Pl. Alfons el Savi). M: FREE Festa Catalana Alfons X (L4). 8pm. www.bcn.cat Enjoy a display of the traditional Tour Tour Catalan dance, the sardana. (Av. de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Palau de la Música Torre Bellesguard | Human towers Every Saturday at 6pm. www. 5GG/QP (Palau de la Música, See Wed 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: barcelona.cat/culturapopular) 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Castellers practice session 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Thu, The Secret Pedrera Palau de la Música Fri. For times and availability, see Family cinema See Mon 8. (Provença, 261-265). 5GG/QP (Palau de la Música, www.castellscat.cat. M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Classic animation +3 Classic animation from all over the Tour YQTNFGKVJGTYKVJQWVFKCNQIWGQT Kids Thursday 11 dubbed in Spanish.CaixaForum Secret Basilica del Pi Barcelona (Av. Francesc Ferrer i To space and back Sports See Thu 4. Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1,L2). 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Sat 13, Sun 14. 5.30pm. €4. Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 42 Conde de Godó Sailing trophy Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). International sailing contest Strategies for living beings QTICPKUGFD[VJG4GKCN%NWD0¼WVKE Sports Sports 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac de Barcelona. June 11-14. www.rcnb. Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). com or www.trofeogodo.rcnb.com Monster Energy Grand Prix of LKXA Extreme Barcelona Catalunya Extreme sports, including 6JGYQTNFoUHCUVGUVTKFGTUVCMGVQ skateboarding, BMX, inline skating Tuesday 16 Tour the track for the seventh scoring CPFNQPIDQCTFKPIYKVJJKIJNGXGN TQWPFQHVJG/QVQ)29QTNF EQORGVKVKQPCUYGNNCUUMCVGRCTMU Tour Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Championship. and ramps open to the public. June 5GG/QP (Plaça de Santa Maria, June 12-14. www.circuitcat.com 13-14. www.extremebarcelona.com Sant Pau modernista monument

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5GG/QP Strategies for living beings Liceu opera house 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni 5GG/QP 5GG/QP(La Rambla 51-59). M: Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau/ CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Liceu (L3). Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Dos de Maig (L5). Av. Tibidabo (FGC). 5GG/QP (Plaça de Santa Secret Basilica del Pi Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). See Thu 4. (Santa Maria del Pi Human towers Thursday 18 Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Liceu opera house 5GG/QP(La Rambla 51-59). Castellers practice session Human towers M: Liceu (L3). 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Friday 19 Thu, Fri. For times and availability, Castellers practice session Secret Basilica del Pi see www.castellscat.cat. 5GG6WG Human towers See Thu 4. (Santa Maria del Pi Various venues. Tue, Thu, Fri. For Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). Castellers of Sants practice times and availability, see www. Castellers practice session M: Liceu (L3). session castellscat.cat. 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Thu, 5GG6WGCal Borinot (Comtes de Fri. For times and availability, see Bell-lloc, 49). M: Sants-Estació www.castellscat.cat. Saturday 20 (L3,L5). Tour Castellers of Gràcia Al fresco Palau de la Música practice session Wednesday 17 5GG/QP See Fri 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: M: Joanic (L4). See Sat 6. Maritime Museum (Av. de Kids Urquinaona (L1, L4). les Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3).

To space and back Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Tour FREE Art show in Plaça Sant 5GG/QP 5GG/QP Josep Oriol CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume Palau de la Música See Sat 6. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Av. Tibidabo (FGC). I (L4). 5GG/QP (Palau de la Música, Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3).

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Last year Spain’s biggest triathlon Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Human towers GXGPVCVVTCEVGFQXGT Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Sports participants, starting on Mar Bella FREE Castellers at beach, before biking and running ORC World Championship Maremagnum through the city. For info: www. Wednesday 24 International sailing contest See Sat 6. (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: garminbarcelonatriathlon.com. organised by the Reial Club Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Tour 0¼WVKEFG$CTEGNQPC Book your June 27-Jul 4. www.rcnb. Tour favourite FREE Festa Catalana Palau de la restaurants at com or www. Three different casteller groups Música timeout.com/ barcelonaorcworlds2015. :KEQVUFG8KNCHTCPEC)GICPVUFG The Secret Pedrera 5GG/QP (Palau barcelona com )T¼EKCCPF)GICPVUFG/QPVDCW  See Mon 8. (Provença, 261-265). M: de la Música, 4-6). M: UJQYQHHVJGKTGZRGTVKUG Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Urquinaona (L1, L4). (Av. de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Sunday 28 7.30pm. FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Cemetery Thursday 25 Tour See Sun 7. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Kids Llacuna (L4). 1st and 3rd Sun Tour FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc 10.30am (Catalan) & 12.30pm Cemetery Strategies for living beings (Spanish). Secret Basilica del Pi 5GG5WP 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac See Thu 4. (Santa Maria del Pi Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya Monday 22 (L1, L3; FGC). Sónar – LittlBits Synth Kit Santa Maria del Mar %QPEGTVCPFJCPFUQPYQTMUJQRVQ Kids rooftop demonstrate the creative 5GG/QP (Plaça de Santa Monday 29 possibilities of this DIY To space and back Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). synthesiser. 5GG/QPCosmoCaixa (Isaac Tour CaixaForum Barcelona (Av. Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Tour of Liceu opera house Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: 5GG/QP Tour of Liceu opera house Espanya (L1,L2). 12pm, 6pm. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5GG/QP Concert €6. Workshop €2. Tuesday 23 (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Human towers Friday 26 Tour Castellers practice session Santa Maria del Mar rooftop 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, Thu, Human towers 5GG/QP (Plaça de Santa The Secret Pedrera Fri. For times and availability, see Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). See Mon 8. www.castellscat.cat. Castellers practice (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal session (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Castellers of Gràcia practice See Tue 2. Various venues. Tue, Tuesday 30 session Thu, Fri. For times and availability, Torre Bellesguard | See Fri 5. Can Musons (Alzina, 7). see www.castellscat.cat. Human towers See Wed 3. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: M: Joanic (L4). Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Castellers practice Saturday 27 session House-museum Casa Bloc Traditions 5GG6WGVarious venues. Tue, See Sat 6. Human towers Thu, Fri. For times and availability, (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Arrival of the Canigó flame see www.castellscat.cat. Torras i Bages (L1). A torch lit on the summit of Pic FREE Castellers at %CPKIÏKP(TCPEGNKIJVUDQPƁTGUCNN Maremagnum Castellers of Sants practice Sports over Catalonia. (Plaça Sant Jaume). See Sat 6. session M: Liceu (L3), Jaume I (L4). (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes 5GG6WGCal Borinot (Comtes FIM CEV Repsol International (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). de Bell-lloc, 49). M: Sants-Estació Championship Sant Joan’s Eve (L3,L5). This month’s second big date for Midsummer night’s festivities all motorcycle fans. QXGTVJGEKV[YKVJƁTGYQTMUOWUKE Family al fresco June 20-21. www.circuitcat.com and dancing late into the night. Al fresco Various venues. www.bcn.cat/agenda FREE Inauguration of MiniGrec Inauguration of 2015 Festival Sunday 21 2CTV[VQNCWPEJVJG)TGECTVU Grec Tour festival’s programme for kids 1HƁEKCNNCWPEJQHVJKU[GCToU)TGE Sports Jardins del Teatre Grec (Pg. de Festival arts programme. Sant Pau modernista monument| Santa Madrona). M: Espanya (Pl. Margarida Xirgu). M: Espanya Garmin Barcelona Triathlon 5GG/QPHospital Sant Pau (Sant (L1,L3). (L1,L3;FGC). 8.30pm.

40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Sights

Architecture €7.50 (reduced). First Sunday of month and under 508 63 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue- )CWFÉoUJKFFGPVTGCUWTGKUC 16s free. More info: www. Thu Sun 9am-midnight; Fri 9am- Basílica de la UNESCO World Heritage Site santpaubarcelona.org. 3am; Sat 9am-4am. €12. €7, Sagrada Família KPUKFG%QNÎPKC)ØGNNCRNCPPGF Tour the buildings and grounds of €8.40 (reduced). (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada textile factory and residential Hospital Sant Pau, one of the $WKNVHQTVJG$CTEGNQPC Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. CTGCOKPUHTQO$CTEGNQPC YQTNFoUNCTIGUV#TV0QWXGCW Expo, Poble Espanyol is an 9am-8pm. Guided tour/with monuments, recently restored open-air museum on Montjuïc audio guide: €19.50. Gran Teatre del Liceu and opened to the public. YKVJTGRNKECUQHUVTGGVUUSWCTGU Barcelona’s most famous (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu and buildings from all over NCPFOCTMDGIWPD[#PVQPK)CWFÉ (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided Torre Bellesguard Spain. Regularly hosts live KPCPFWPƁPKUJGFVQVJKU tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo music events. day. Ticket sales help fund the €14. 30-minute tour: €6. (FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. Tue-Sun ongoing construction of Spain’s www.liceubarcelona.cat 10am-3pm. Closed Mon. Tibidabo Amusement Park most popular tourist attraction. 8KUKVQPGQHVJGYQTNFoUITGCV Panoramic tour (audio guide to (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus QRGTCJQWUGUFKUEQXGTVJG exterior, remains of Martin the Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça Basílica de impressive concert hall and Humane’s palace, audiovisual Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC) Santa Maria del Mar exclusive private rooms that centre): €7. Guided tour (tower + Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: make this one of Barcelona’s exterior and interior, roof terrace): Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. most emblematic buildings. €16; in English – Sat, Sun 11am. 79 42. More info: www.tibidabo. Mon-Sat 9am-1.30pm, 4.30pm- Discover the modernista castle cat. Sky Walk: Sat, Sun, public 8pm; Sun and public holidays La Pedrera VJCV#PVQPK)CWFÉDWKNVCVVJG hols 11am-9pm; Jun 24-26 Mon- 10.30am-1.30pm, 4.30pm-8pm. (Provença, 261–265). M: foot of Tibidado mountain. Fri 11am-9pm; from Jun 27 Mon- Wheelchair access. Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 Fri 11am-10pm. €12.70. -PQYPCUVJGnECVJGFTCNQHVJG 138. 9am-8.30pm. Last Leisure Children under 120cm: €7.80. Ribera’, this church is one of the admission: 8pm. €20.50. Amusement park: until Jun 26 most perfect examples of €16.50 (reduced). Aire de Barcelona, Sat, Sun noon-9pm; from Jun 27 )QVJKECTEJKVGEVWTGVJCPMUVQ Many Barcelona residents Arab Baths Sat, Sun noon-10pm. €28.50. the harmony of its proportions TGICTFVJKUCU)CWFÉoUVTWG (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Children under 120cm: €10.30. and its inherent serenity. masterpiece. The roof terrace Barceloneta, Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Tibidabo is one of the oldest represents modernista /QP(TKƁTUVGPVT[ VJGOGRCTMUKPVJGYQTNFCPF Basílica de CTEJKVGEJVWTGCVKVUƁPGUV 10am; last entry between 10pm features both classic rides and Santa Maria del Pi and midnight; Sat, Sun and days DTCPFPGYCVVTCEVKQPUYKVJ (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) & Palau Güell before public holidays: last entry URGEVCEWNCTXKGYUQXGTVJGEKV[ Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: between midnight and 2am. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 5pm- Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 www.airedebarcelona.com PortAventura 8pm. €4. €3 (reduced). Guided 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. These Arab baths revive the (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. tour (including belltower): Sat Last admission: 7pm. Closed ancient tradition of bathing as Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port noon (advanced booking Mon except public hols. a form of relaxation, in a Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For required). €12. €8 (reduced). €12. €8 (reduced). gorgeous setting. prices and times contact tourist One of Barcelona’s grandest $WKNVD[)CWFÉKPVJGNCVGVJ QHƁEGUQTXKUKVRQTVCXGPVWTCGU )QVJKEEJWTEJGUYKVJITGCV century, this palace belonged to Barcelona Urban Forest Located an hour south of XKGYUHTQOKVUDGNNVQYGT his principal patron. The roof (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Barcelona, this theme park has terrace shouldn’t be missed. Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 six zones (Mediterranean, Far Casa Batlló 34 26. Jun 3-23: Sat, Sun 10am- West, SesameAdventure, (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Palau de la Música 3pm, 4pm-8pm. Jun 25-Sep 13: Mexico, China and Polynesia) Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 Catalana Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. €11-€27 EQXGTKPIJGEVCTGUYKVJ 06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50 (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: (depending on age and circuit). CVVTCEVKQPUFCKN[ (reduced). Last admission: 8pm. Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 )GVUQOGJKIJCFTGPCNKPG processions, 75 places to eat, More info: www.casabatllo.cat. 72 00. 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 GZGTEKUGYKVJQXGTCVVTCEVKQPU CPFETCHVCPFIKHVUJQRU The sensuality and harmony of its (reduced). Under 10s free. including zip lines, bungee KPVGTKQTEQODKPGFYKVJ)CWFÉoU Step inside one of the most jumping, trampolines and more. Barcelona Zoo use of colours, shapes and light beautiful modernista buildings (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: make this a must-see for admirers in the city, today a UNESCO Gaudí Experience Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ QHVJGCTEJKVGEVoUYQTM World Heritage Site. (Larrard, 41). M: Vallcarca, Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 Lesseps (L3). T. 93 285 44 40. 45. 10am-8pm. €19.90. Gaudí Crypt Sant Pau, modernista 10am-7pm. €9. €7.50 (reduced). Children (ages 3-12): €11.95. at Colònia Güell monument A fascinating interactive journey 1RGPHQTOQTGVJCP[GCTU (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: that uses 4-D technology to take this is one of the city’s best- de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. [QWKPUKFG)CWFÉoUWPKXGTUG NQXGFCVVTCEVKQPU0QYCFC[U & FGC: Colònia Güell (S4, S8, Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun, KVoUJQOGVQOQTGVJCP S33). T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri public hols 10am-2.30pm. Self- Poble Espanyol animals representing some 10am-7pm; Sat, Sun, public hols guided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced). (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, URGEKGU&QPoVOKUUVJG 10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide). Guided tour: €14. €9.80 (reduced). 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 RQRWNCTFQNRJKPUJQY

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 41 The Arts Al fresco music The gardens of the Pedralbes Royal Palace are the setting for an eclectic summer festival. By Aleix Cabau

PET SHOP BOYS Kalasnjikov & Kalashnikov, put orchestra in the mid-’90s, there SARA BARAS The Festival Jardins del Palau special emphasis on the festive has been growing international 6JG%CFK\DQTPƂCOGPEQFCPEGT Reial de Pedralbes opens its third and celebratory nature of his recognition of the value of choreographer Sara Baras, one of edition with these British character. Sat 13, 10pm popular Cuban music. The artists the best dancers in the genre today electronic pop icons. With 12 who appear here include one of who combines her technique with a albums, more than 50 million ANA BELÉN & VICTOR MANUEL Cuban song’s most important notable artistic ambition, will records sold around the world This popular Spanish musical ƁIWTGU1OCTC2QTVWQPFQ6JG present her latest show, ‘Voces’ and numerous prizes including couple have returned together to singer started her career as part (‘Voices’), a tribute to some of the Grammys and Brit Awards, the VJGUVWFKQHQTVJGƁTUVVKOGUKPEG of the Cuarteto d’Aida group, OQUVKEQPKEƁIWTGUQHƂCOGPEQC duo are here for one of the last recording their 1986 double which established her as the pantheon inhabited by Paco de dates on their much lauded album Para la ternura siempre hay queen of ƁNKP, a style of bolero Lucía, Antonio Gades, Camarón de ‘Electric World Tour’ – to date tiempo (There’s Always Time for that emerged in La Havana and la Isla, Enrique Morente and they’ve played 108 concerts in 47 Tenderness). Their new disc is Mexico in the ’40s. Fri 19, 10pm Moraíto. Portraits of the legendary countries. Expect lots of hits, called Canciones regaladas (Songs dancers, singers and musicians dazzling costumes and stunning as Gifts), and is an album of covers SPANDAU BALLET will adorn the stage and are the visuals. Mon 8, 10pm that have been chosen, produced The legendary British group, new common link in a work that and arranged by their son David wave idols and a driving force of demonstrates both the splendour GORAN BREGOVIC San José. It’s this new release the New Romantic movement, CPFVJGCPIWKUJQHƂCOGPEQ Serbian musician Goran Bregovic that has motivated their return to return to the forefront of the music Wed 24 & Thu 25, 10pm continues his own particular the stage. Sun 14, 10pm scene with their tour, ‘Soul Boys of Balkan odyssey by revisiting the Western World Live’, whose traditional gypsy music with his BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB name is taken from the 2014 Also playing this month are inseparable Wedding and Funeral ORCHESTRA documentary that told the story of Jessie J on Thu 18 and Melody Orchestra. Bregovic’s most recent This group, a global ambassador the band in the ’80s. Here, the Gardot on Tue 30. Buy tickets for albums, Alkohol and Champagne for the Cuban sound, comes to London quintet play live once more all the concerts on our website: for Gypsies, along with a Barcelona to bid farewell to live – get ready to give it your all to www.timeout.com/barcelona/ symphonic version of his biggest appearances with its ‘Adios Tour’. classics like ‘Gold’ and ‘True’. time-out-shop. The Festival hits on Make Music Not War: Since the inception of the Sat 20 & Sun 21, 10pm Pedralbes 2015 runs until July 10.

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The Beast and the Sovereign

sure in which order of priority – and a man who, until he MACBA Until August 30 abdicated his throne last year, was used to starting his Arguably the best way of visiting speeches with, ‘it is for me a this exhibition is entering, source of pride and backwards, through the exit. satisfaction...’ (ie, former And, if you can manage it, with Spanish king Juan Carlos I) – your top on back-to-front and creating a trio of truisms. The inside-out. It’s all a question of show, inspired by one of the last getting into the spirit of a show public speeches of Jacques that begins by being (apparently) Derrida, talks about the limits of closed, and only opens its doors political sovereignty within the to visitors after you’ve passed a Western tradition. This theme sign that says ‘being has been one of this particular dismantled’. The philosophy is museum’s specialities in recent perhaps best summed up by the years – criticism of the status video Inversión by Cuban artist quo, anti-capitalist revisionism, Glenda León, which appears in guilt for colonial aggression, the exhibition: a razor scrapes various examples of post- across a hundred-dollar bill until situationism, etc. There are it’s left with no green ink. The works that emanate poetic resulting dust is vacuumed up by powers, such as the books with a rolled-up coca leaf… What an nailed-on figures of Edgar intelligent way (irony mode: ON) Endress, or the false naïve to make suggestions regarding ‘Sagrat Cor de Marica’ by Ocaña. connections between the liberal But there are also more tedious economy and the drugs exhibits and general principles – business! such as anti-clericalism – dealt Of course, while there you with using little imagination. But mustn’t forget to do a selfie – IN NUMBERS I’m not going to name names. In what we used to called a self- the end, this is a heterogeneous portrait – next to the sculpture exhibition for a programme that ‘Not dressed for conquering/ IN PAPIER MÂCHÉ UNUSUAL VISITORS is practically homogeneous. Haute couture 04’ by Ines Doujak’s piece may be the most It’ll be interesting to see how many –Ricard Mas Doujak. This work (shown above) famous and controversial piece in extra visitors the MACBA wins thanks features a German shepherd, a the show but perhaps is also the to the polemic created by Doujak’s FOOTNOTE More than 30 artists defender of women’s and least compelling. By the way, if it gets work – last year, the museum and four curators are behind this indigenous peoples – I’m not broken, it’s insured for €55,000. received 350,000 visitors. exhibition. The origins of it all

Antoni Gaudí is the architectural Among Gaudí’s many stunning is a videomapping on the roof equivalent of Barça footballer Leo Barcelona buildings, La Pedrera terrace – light and music play on Messi – there are scarcely enough on Passeig de Gràcia stands out the space’s unique architecture words in the thesaurus to describe as one of the most fabulous – to create an audiovisual him. Groundbreaking, clearly. A the curvy balconies, the intricate experience based on the origins prodigy. Scornful of the established ironwork, the captivating of life, which so inspired Gaudí. rules, instead seeking his creature-like chimneys. You can inspiration in nature and God. Just now see the building, which was Gaudí’s Pedrera: The Origins as Shakespeare is said to have finished in 1912, in a completely Visits in English take place each invented one in ten of the words he different light with ‘Gaudí’s evening at 9pm, 9.20pm, 10pm used in his work, Gaudí constantly Pedrera: The Origins’. These and 10.20pm. €34 adults. €17 came up with new ways to confront night-time tours will take you on children aged 7-17. Free for the challenges of his commissions, a memorable visit around its children up to 6. You can also such as trencadis mosaics and treasures and includes combine your visit with dinner in multilayered stained glass projections in the stairwells. the café of La Pedrera (€59).

windows. One of the undoubted highlights MARC VILA www.lapedrera.com

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options (including tapas). €45-€160. Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: aFKUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU Glòries, Marina (L1) & Music RCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO Spanish guitar masters Monumental (L2). 8pm. €3. Performance by Barcelona guitar 45th Anniversary Tablao duo, Carmen. Monday 1 Cordobés Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). Pop-Rock 6JGHCOQWUƂCOGPEQXGPWG M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm. Classical celebrates almost half a century €20. Discount available at tourist Oques Grasses with the following acts on this QHƁEGU+PHQDEPUJQREQO Catalan band Oques Grasses (‘Fat Spanish guitar masters month: Pepe Torres, Sergio Aranda, Geese’) serve up a musical mix of Russian guitarist Ekaterina Záytseva Belén López, Saavedra, Mariví reggae, pop and rock that has won is considered one of the best of her Granado (dance), Juan Manzano Wednesday 3 them legions of local fans. generation. Santa Maria del Pi ‘Coco’, Manuel Tañé, Antonio Barts (Av. Paral·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Campos ‘Bocaillo’ and Mariano Singer-songwriter L3). 9pm. €12-€15. 9pm. €23. Discount available at Santiago (cantaors), La Tana VQWTKUVQHƁEGUDEPUJQREQO (cantaora), David Cerreduela, Israel Jackson Browne Cerreduela and Tuto (guitar) and US singer-songwriter and adoptive Jazz Orquestra Barroca Casa da Rafael Jiménez ‘Chispa’ (cajón). Barcelonan Jackson Browne Música (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu performs new songs from last BCN Gin Jazz Band Porto’s Orquestra Barroca, led by (L3). Daily 8.15pm, 10pm. €42.50. year’s critically acclaimed album )QTMC$GPÉVG\QPUCZCPFƂWVG harpsichordist Adreas Staier, plays Standing in the Breach. David Xirgú on drums and music by Bach and Telemann. Palau Live Flamenco – Tacones Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, sommelier Stefan Lismond de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Cantaors Miguel de la Tolea and L3). 9pm. €30-€40. presenting BCN Gin, distilled in Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, Duende, with dancers Costi El Chato the Priorat with the Med spirit of L4). 7pm. €12-€30. and Yolanda Cortes Santiago. Barcelona. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Classical Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Dixit Dominus Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door). Jordi Savall performs versions of 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 Spanish guitar masters €10 (web). www.masimas.com/ Psalm 109, ‘Dixit Dominus’, by (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos Award-winning guitarist, and jamboree. Vivaldi, Handel and Mozart, with La Barcelona native, Xavier Coll Capella Reial de Catalunya soloists, performs in this beautiful setting. students from the 5th Academy for Tuesday 2 Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Flamenco musical training and Le Concert Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. des Nations instrumentalists. Flamenco Spanish guitar masters L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Bach in Barcelona Guitarist Robert Majure performs Glòries, Marina (L1) & Monumental Tablao Flamenco Nervión See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau ‘Alma Flamenca’. (L2). 9pm. €10-€40. City centre restaurant hosts del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). ƂCOGPEQRGTHQTOCPEG Paral·lel (L2,L3). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm. Bach in Barcelona (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, €20. Discount available at tourist Every Monday and Wednesday Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink QHƁEGU+PHQDEPUJQREQO lunchtime, cellist Jurgen van Win €16.90; show + supper €27.90. Flamenco performs Bach’s Suites in a 11th- Live Flamenco – Somorrostro century Benedictine monastery. Live Flamenco – Somorrostro Live Flamenco – Somorrostro See Tue 2. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Perhaps more than any other music See Tue 2. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Catalunya Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Mon & HQTOƂCOGPEQOWUVDGUGGPNKXG Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). (L1,L3;FGC). Wed 1pm. €16. €7.99 children 8-17. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Free for children seven and under. Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, Palacio del Flamenco show [email protected]. 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Friday 5 T. 679 305 718. (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Classical Palacio del Flamenco show 45th Anniversary Tablao Flamenco See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Cordobés Spanish guitar masters Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: See Wed 3. Santa Maria del Pi Palacio del Flamenco Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). show 45th Anniversary Tablao A full cast of guitarists, singers Cordobés Spanish guitar masters and dancers, and the rhythms of See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Thursday 4 See Tue 2. Santa Ana Church the cajón, heels and palms, take Drassanes/Liceu (L3). (Santa Ana, 29). M: Liceu (L3). 7pm. you on a journey into the world of Classical ƂCOGPEQ Voices inside the Pedrera (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, Classical Toc cap a tu Discover the interior of La Pedrera FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & A concert with young musicians accompanied by a capella vocal 10.30pm. Options: show only; show Spanish guitar masters that fuses body percussion with group Amarcord. + one drink; show + different menu See Mon 1. Santa Maria del Pi Barcelona’s Municipal Band. La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M:

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Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 138. historic buildings in BCN. Various Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: 9pm. €22 (includes one drink); venues. Jun 6-Jul 2. www.bcn.cat L3). 9pm (double session). Glòries, Marina (L1) & under-18s, €15. lapedrera.com Cover charge €8. Monumental (L2. 7pm. €32-€96. One of the Six Parisian Find more Vivaldi: Concertos for violin and Quartets concerts on our orchestra The Clàssic BCN quartet website Sunday 7 Jazz Moldavan violinist Patricia performs music by timeout.com/ Kopatchinskaja performs Vivaldi Telemann, Bach and Haydyn. barcelona Classical FREE Hunters Project with Giovannio Antonini’s Il Palau Robert (Pg. de Gràcia, Free open-air music with this jazz Giardino Armonico. 107). M: Diagonal (L3,L5). T. 93 FREE Shhh – we’re quartet. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, 238 80 91. 5pm. www.gencat.cat/ making music M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & Marina (L1) & Monumental (L2). palaurobert Instruments from the museum in Monumental (L2). 12.45pm. 8.30pm. €10-€48. expert hands: today Izan Rubio plays Spanish guitar masters a selection of guitars. See Wed 3. Santa Maria del Pi Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). Flamenco Jazz Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & Monumental (L2). 5.30pm. Spanish guitar masters Otis Taylor Band A coffee with... See Thu 4. Santa Ana Church (Santa Veteran bluesman and multi- Baroque concert cycle, FREE Censorship concerts Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). instrumentalist Taylor plays. celebrating the great academies As part of the Festival of Banned Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). and musical coffee houses of the books, a concert featuring outlawed Palacio del Flamenco show 8pm, 10pm. €25 (on the door). €20 period: June’s concert is songs that have gone on to become See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: (web). www.masimas.com/jamboree. dedicated to the London world of popular favourites. Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Henry Purcell and the Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Westminster cycle. 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4). T. 45th Anniversary Tablao Gospel Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). 93 256 68 51. Cordobés M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Wonderful Gospel Monumental (L2). Noon. €5. MuOM Drassanes/Liceu (L3). An 80-voice choir brings the sound Chamber choir performs in lovely of gospel to the Barri Gòtic. Teatime classical music city centre basilica. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pianist Carolina Estrada plays Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, Monday 8 Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €25. pieces by Granados, Bach and 7). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €15. www. www.barcelonagospelchoir.cat Liszt in setting of beautiful and ticketea.com Electronic-Pop historical palace. MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Moscow Philharmonic Pet Shop Boys Saturday 6 Jaume I (L4). 6pm. www.meam.es. Orchestra Deadpan English electronic-pop One of the greatest orchestras in duo open this year’s edition of the Classical the world, under conductor Yuri Festival Pedralbes in the gardens Jazz Botnari, performs Mozart’s of the Pedralbes Royal Palace. 11th Music in the Palaces Abduction from the Seraglio, See page 42. Since 2005, this festival has Toni Solà Trio Brahms’ violin concerto in D Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. brought classical and Local jazzman takes the stage. Major, and Tchaikovsky’s Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). contemporary chamber music to Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Symphony no. 5. 10pm. €18-€300.

INTERNATIONAL SOUNDS

EL PERRO DE MAR KAREN SOUZA ARIANA GRANDE KISS No salty sea dog but the stage name of The Argentinian singer Souza made her Teens will need no introduction to the Possibly the most recognisable hard Swedish indie princess Sarah Assbring name with jazz versions of ’80s pop pop sensation with the four-octave rock band in history, with 100 million who celebrates her 10th anniversary classics – her new show includes her vocal range, who is in town on her album sales to their name, KISS hit with the re-release of her 2005 debut. own jazz compositions. Honeymoon World Tour. Palau Sant town with their 40th Anniversary tour. Auditori, Thu 11. 9pm. €25. Luz de Gas, Tue 16. Midnight. €15. Jordi, Tue 16. 8pm. From €40. Palau Sant Jordi, Sat 21. From €40.

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del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del (L2).7pm. €28-€32. Classical Paral·lel (L2,L3). Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).

Spanish guitar masters Spanish guitar masters Spanish pop See Mon 1. Santa Maria del Pi Thursday 11 See Thu 4. Santa Ana Church Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Ana Belén and Victor Manuel Jazz L3;FGC) Icons of Spanish music at the Bach in Barcelona Pedralbes Festival. See page 42. See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau Fran Suarez Trio Igudesman & Joo. A Big Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Jazz and cocktails. Nightmaree Music Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). Paral·lel (L2,L3). Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Classical music comedy with 10pm. €18-€160. Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, Aleksey Igudesman and Richard L3). 9pm (double session). Cover Hyung-ki Joo, accompanied by the Tuesday 9 charge €8. Vallès Symphony Orchestra. Classical Palau de la Música Catalana Classical (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Fortepiano, Roger Illa Friday 12 Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. ‘The colours of the fortepiano’, with ‘Clara and Robert – discovering €22-€76. works by Beethoven and Schubert. their cycles Classical Sant Pau Recinte Modernista (Sant With Paloma Friedhoff Bello FREE Festival Simfònic Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant (soprano) and Isaac Friedhopff Barcelona 4 Guitars Over 5,000 music students Pau (L5). 4pm. €19. Calvo (piano). Two men, two women and four perform ‘El Cant dels Ocells’ in Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les guitars in a humurous take on the more than 100 simultaneous ‘Cantu a chiterra’ Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). classical repertoire. concerts all over Catalonia. Traditional music from Sardinia, in M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. More Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del which voices are accompanied by info: www.racba.org. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 6pm. More info: the guitars from the museum. (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. www.simfonic.org. Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150). Spanish guitar masters M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & Pedro J. González is a Barcelona- Voices inside the Pedrera FREE Festival Simfònic Monumental (L2). 5.30pm. based guitarist known for his fusion See Fri 5. La Pedrera (Provença, See above. Sant Pau Recinte QHOQFGTOCPFƂCOGPEQUQWPFU 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). Modernista (Sant Antoni Maria Friends of UNESCO orchestra Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau (L5). 6pm. A journey around the musical Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Toc cap a tu More info: www.simfonic.org. traditions of the Med, from Greece See Thu 4. L’Auditori (Lepant, and Turkey to Portugal. 150). M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & Teatime classical music Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Flamenco Monumental (L2). ‘Free, crazy and dramatic:’ works Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 6pm. €18. by Schumann, Beethoven and Oleandole Brahms with the Trio Crescendo Live Flamenco with vocalist Flamenco (clarinet, cello and piano). Jazz Miguel Fernandez Arnau and MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: dancers Sergio Quesada Gil and 45th Anniversary Tablao Jaume I (L4). 6pm. www.meam.es FREE Colors Latin Macarena Mulero. Cordobés Free open-air jazz. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Balkan music Marina (L1) & Monumental (L2). 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 1.15pm. (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos Goran Bregovic Contemporary A Big Balkan Party with a big Anton Jarl Quartet Spanish guitar masters orchestra. See page 42. Tribute to John Coltrane. See Thu 4. Santa Ana Church Lluïsa Espigolé Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Catalan pianist Espogolé, who has Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). played at numerous ‘new music’ 10pm. €18-€140. L3). 9pm (double session). Cover festivals, performs a concert of charge €8. contemporary piano Wednesday 10 compositions. L’Auditori (Lepant, Sunday 14 150). M: Glòries, Marina (L1) & Monday 15 Classical Opera–Symphony Monumental (L2). 8pm. €7. Classical Spanish guitar masters Only for a few? Bach in Barcelona Luis Robisco performs. Saturday 13 Marcel Gorgori’s show, designed See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, to challenge the assumption that del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Classical opera is ‘only for a few’, with the Paral·lel (L2,L3). Barcelona Philharmonic. Bach in Barcelona Spanish guitar masters L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, Cobla and Corda Symphony See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau See Tue 9. Marina (L1) & Monumental A traditional Catalan cobla

46 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com The Arts orchestra, plus strings, performs del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: RQRWNCTƁNOOWUKE Paral·lel (L2,L3). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Spanish guitar masters (L1, L4). 7pm. €15-€25. Concert in emblematic church by Barcelona Guitar Trío. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Tuesday 16 Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Opera Flamenco Don Pasquale One of the greatest Italian comic Palacio del Flamenco show operas, in which Don Pasquale See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: tries to interfere in his young Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). nephew Ernesto’s love for Norina, VKIIGTKPICƂQQFQHHCTEKECNOKZWRU 45th Anniversary Tablao and bizarre incidents. Cordobés Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Jun 16-22, 25- Drassanes/Liceu (L3). 27. 8pm; Sun 5pm. €10-€187. www.liceubarcelona.cat Thursday 18 Classical Pop

The soul of the landscape Jessie J With the Fòrum Vocal choir under The British pop soul diva Xavier Sans, accompanied by makes her Barcelona debut. pianist Xavier Pardo. See page 42. Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. More info: (L3). 10pm. €18-€200. www.racba.org.

Spanish guitar masters Electronic Performance by Manuel González. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Sónar de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Barcelona’s biggest electronic (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. music festival is back with an extensive, eclectic line-up of acts. See page 28. Flamenco Various venues. Jun 18-20. www. sonar.es 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Spanish pop Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Pablo Alboran Live Flamenco show Spanish singer-songwriter and ‘Abolengo,’ with singers Elisabet heatthrob Pablo Alboran tours last Santiago and Luis el Granaino. year’s album Terral. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). Bus 150 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 from Pl. Espanya, Avda. de l’Estadi (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos stop. Jun 18, 19. 9.30pm. €22- €140. Wednesday 17 Gospel Classical Wonderful Gospel Bach in Barcelona See Fri 5. Santa Maria del Pi See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).

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(includes visit, concert and a drink). Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Pop www.lapedrera.com Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. Palacio del Flamenco show World music: Nakany Kanté Musical residences See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Born in Guinea Conkary and now Flamenco Cellist Òscar Alabau continues his Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). based in Barcelona, singer residence in a chamber concert Nakany Kanté mixes African Spanish guitar masters with Ben Baker (violin) and Jean- styles from Mandinga pop to Afro- ‘Fandango,’ with Jona Benjamin. Sélim Abdelmoula (piano). Wednesday 24 reggae. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). Sant Pau Recinte Modernista (Sant M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 7pm. M: Diagonal (L3, L5). 6pm. €12. Flamenco Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant €20. Discount available at tourist Pau (L5). 9.30pm. €10 (includes QHƁEGU+PHQDEPUJQREQO FREE Vicens Martin Dream Big Sara Baras visit to venue). Band Suite Barcelona One of the best contemporary One of Catalonia’s top big bands ƂCOGPEQFCPEGTU See page 42. Saturday 20 performs an instrumental suite Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Pop-Rock dedicated to Barcelona.Auditori Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). Pop (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, Jun 24, 25. 10pm. €18-€190. Los Brincos Marina (L1) & Monumental ‘The Spanish Beatles’, one of the Spandau Ballet (L2). 8.30pm. Book a pre- or biggest groups in Spain during the ‘Soul Boys of the Western World’ at post-concert Classical ’60s, stay true to their roots on the Pedralbes Festival. See page meal at recent album Solo Brincos. 42. Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Blues timeout.com/ Bach in Barcelona Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). barcelona See Mon 1. Monestir de L3). 9pm. €18-€28. Jun 20-21. 10pm. €18-€240. J.T. Lauritsen Quintet Sant Pau del Camp (Sant Norwegian bluesman plays. Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Jazz Classical Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double session). Cover Thursday 25 Albert Bello Quartet Spanish guitar masters charge €8. Jazz with cocktails.Milano Cocktail See Fri 12. Palau de la Música Blues–Jazz Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Monday 22 Gaudí Nights 2015 session). Cover charge €8. Victor Puertas and Chino open ESMUC Symphony Orchestra Classical the concert season at the Torre Students from the Catalonia Bellesguard. Friday 19 College of Music perform at the Spanish guitar masters (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo National Art Museum. See Sun 21. Santa Maria del Pi (FGC). Doors 7.30pm; guided tour Traditional Cuban MNAC (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). of exterior 7.30pm; concert Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). 8pm. 8.15pm; chill out 10pm. €19. Buena Vista Social Club Bach in Barcelona Orchestra Rusiñol and Modernisme See Mon 1. Monestir de Sant Pau The band that made traditional The ‘La Veu Humana’ duo explores del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Cuban music Cuban music an international painter Santiago Rusiñol’s work Paral·lel (L2,L3). phenomenon. See page 42. through words and music. World music: Sonora Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Museu del Modernisme (Balmes, Saboratrova Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3. Flamenco Immerse yourself in the rich 10pm. €18-€150. L4;FGC). 7pm. €15. €12 reduced, musical heritage of Cuba, from €7.50 children (includes visit to 45th Anniversary Tablao son montuno and bolero to trova museum before 7pm). Cordobés and changüí. Sant Pau Recinte Classical See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: Modernista (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, Teatime classical music Drassanes/Liceu (L3). 167). M: Sant Pau (L5). 9.30pm. Spanish guitar masters Works by Mozart, Verdi and others, See Wed 10. Santa Maria del Pi with Núria VIla (soprano) and Palacio del Flamenco show Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Montserrat Lladó (piano). See Mon 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Friday 26 MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Flamenco Jazz Jaume I (L4). 6pm. www.meam.es Tuesday 23 Gaudí Nights 2015 Summer nights at La Pedrera Sunday 21 Victor ‘el tostao’ and Oscar Jazz vocalist Myriam Swanson Flamenco Martínez. revisits the classics. Classical (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: 45th Anniversary Tablao (FGC). Doors 7.30pm; guided tour Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 138. Spanish guitar masters Cordobés of exterior 7.30pm-; concert Jun 19, 20, 26, 27. 9pm. €28 Manuel González in concert. See Mon 1. (Rambla, 35). M: 8.15pm; chill out 10pm. €19.

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Santa Maria del Pi Church Jazz (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3).

Summer nights at La Pedrera Spanish guitar Fresh from Amsterdam come the masters Benjamin Herman Trio, led by one See Tue 2. of the dandies of European jazz. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 FGC). 7pm 138. Jun 19, 20, 26, 27. 9pm. €28 (includes visit, concert and a drink). Monday 29 Pop–Rock Flamenco

Los Secretos Live Flamenco – Pilar ’80s pop rockers present new Rodriguez album Algo Prestado. Enjoy a fantastic live dance Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: and music show. Gràcia (FGC). 8.30pm. €28. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 pm. €10 (on the Saturday 27 door). €8 (web). World music Gaudí Nights 2015 Tuesday 30 Gypsy music with Biel Ballester. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Jazz (FGC). Doors 7.30pm; guided tour of exterior 7.30pm; concert Melody Gardot 8.15pm; chill out 10pm. €19. The new queen of vocal jazz. See page 42. Palau Reial de Pedralbes (Avda. Jazz Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). 10pm. €18-€150. Summer nights at La Pedrera See Sat 26. La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). Classical

Cyrille Aimée & Michael Recital with Jaume Torrent Valeanu and Ayako Fujiki French-Dominican vocalist Aimée Reial Acadèmia Catalana de brings a fresh sound to Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). contemporary jazz.Jamboree (Pl. M: Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, racba.org. 10pm. €20 (on the door). €15 (web). www.masimas.com/jamboree. ESMUC students’ concert See Sat 20. Flamenco MNAC (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). Spanish guitar masters See Sat 19. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Music + gastronomy L3;FGC). 9pm. €20. Discounts at VQWTKUVQHƁEGU Gaudí Nights 2015 Premium cultural event with mix of music, food and Sunday 28 architecture. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Classical (FGC). Doors 7.30pm; guided tour of exterior 7.30pm; concert Spanish guitar masters 8.15pm; chill out 10pm-midnight. See Wed 3. €25-€45.

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(L1) & Poblenou, Llacuna (L4). T. 93 51. Tue-Sun and public holidays, Fundació Joan Miró 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya Exhibitions 11am-2pm. Closed Mon and public public holidays). €6. Reduced: €4. (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Oct- holidays. €5. Reduced: €2. Under-16s free. Sun 3pm-8pm Jun: Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Thu 10am- free. First Sun every month free, 9.30pm; Sun & public holidays Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona Permanent exhibition 10am-8pm. 10am-2.30pm. Closed Mon (except (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Contemporary paintings shown in a public holidays). €11. Temporary Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 former cotton factory in Poblenou. Born Cultural Centre Under the exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed The Art of Collecting Until Jul 19. cast-iron structure of one of the Sun and public holidays. Eight carefully chosen pieces from city’s 19th-century markets lie Permanent exhibition Most the collection of Ventura Garcés. remains from the 1700s. important public collection of Antoni Capella, society The Chromatic Cosmogony of Barcelona 1700. From stones to works by the Catalan artist. photographer Until Oct 3. Catalan Manolo Ballesteros Until Jul 19. people. Permanent exhibition Prophetia Until Jun 7. Various snapper whose subjects included Recent paintings by local artist. 18th-century Barcelona was artists look at the development of the Liceu and Ràdio Barcelona. dynamic and forward-looking, but the European project. Castell de Montjuïc marked by the wars that affected In Cycling Mode: The Wilson Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya the city from 1691 to 1714. Exercises Until Jun 7. Joint project Barcelona (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Mon- Until it is done! The siege of 1714 between US artist Anna Craycroft (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Sun and public holidays 10am- No end date. Examining the 14- and Spaniard Marc Vives. Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 8pm. €5. Reduced: €3. month siege of Barcelona that Lesson 0 Until Sep 6. 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am- ended with capitulation to Bourbon Birth of an object Jun 5-Sep 6. 1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. Montjuïc, the construction of a troops on September 11, 1714. castle Permanent exhibition. Red for censorship Jun 2-Jul 5. Fundació Suñol FREE Apel·les Mestres. A Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles Exhibition of books that have been (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal complete artist and multifaceted Berga. Permanent exhibition. censored or prohibited. (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri man Until Oct 31. Examining the Montjuïc Stone Barcelona Until 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm. creations of this Catalan artist Jun 15. Exploration of how the city Espai VolART-Fundació Vila Closed Sun and public holidays. €4. (1854-1936) who was a painter, was built using this local material. Casas Reduced: €2. poet, playwright and musician. (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona CCCB (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri Permanent exhibition Collection Blue Project Foundation (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, of works belonging to Josep Suñol (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & 5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. that includes art by Warhol, Dalí, & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- public holidays 11am-8pm. Closed Closed Mon and public holidays. Tàpies, Picasso, Miró and Man Ray. Sun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3. Mon (except public holidays). €6. €1. Reduced: 50¢. Italia. I Sei Sensi Until Jan 9, Reduced entry on Wed (except 2016. Re-examination of late 20th- Daniel Toca. Personal show Jun public holidays) and for pensioners Time travel Until Jul 17. Lluís Barba century Italian works held in the 4-Jul 26. and students: €4. Under-16s & re-visits past classic works. collection of the Suñol Foundation. Little is left to tell. Calvino after unemployed: free. Retrospective Until Jun 28. Art José Guerrero. The Presence of Calvino Jun 12-Oct 31. Collective from Josep Maria Porta Missé. Black (1950-1966) Until Sep 5. exhibition. Sebald Variations Until Jul 26. Celebrating the 100th anniversary Author W.G. Sebald is acclaimed Filmoteca de Catalunya of the birth of the Granada artist. CaixaForum for his turn-of-millennium works. (Pl. Salvador Seguí, 1-9). M: Liceu (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). See page 26. (L3). T. 93 567 10 70. Tue-Sun Hash Marihuana & Hemp M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 476 4pm-9pm. Free entry to exhibitions. Museum 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults CosmoCaixa (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T. €4. Under 16s free. (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo Republic, War, Dictatorship. 93 319 75 39. Every day 10am- (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun Sabaté stills Until Jun 30. Images 10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free. Alvar Aalto 1898-1976 Jun and public holidays 10am-8pm. by 11 photographers created 4-Aug 23. Organic architecture, art Closed Mon (except public using old negatives from Sabaté, Permanent exhibition The past, and design. holidays). €4 (permanent and one of Barcelona’s industrial present and future of the cannabis Moche culture from ancient temporary exhibitions). Under 16s photo labs. plant and its various uses. Peru. Gold, myths and rituals Until free. First Sun of month free. Jun 7. Artworks created almost Fundació Antoni Tàpies Jardí Botànic 2,000 years ago by the Moche Permanent exhibition – Top (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya people from northern Peru. science Barcelona’s science (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Daily Three narratives. Memory Until museum that covers more than Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. 10am-7pm. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. Jun 14. Works from the “la Caixa” 50,000m2. Students and pensioners, €5.60. contemporary art collection. Year 2100 experiment No end Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from FREE Windows of the world Until date. What might life be like in the Tàpies collection. Works and Mediterranean climate zones all Aug 31. 5JQTVƁNOURQTVTC[KPINKHG year 2100 and the 22nd century? references Until Jan 2016. Works over the world. in Africa, Asia and South America. by the late Catalan artist created Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet El Born Centre Cultural from the ’40s to the ’80s, along of curiosities Until Feb 2016. Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I with a selection of works by other Reconstruction of one of BCN’s (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 artists from his own collection. earliest natural history collections.

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Bonsai Until Jun (weekends and Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public public holidays). Mini tree display. holidays 10am-2pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €8. La Pedrera – Fundació Catalunya Reduced: €6. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 138. Mon-Fri Permanent exhibition The 9am-10pm; Sun and public holidays fascinating world of creativity and 10am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. €20.50. inventing. Reduced: €16.50. MUHBA Park Güell Leopold Pomés. Flashback Until (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). M: Jul 12. Retrospective of work from Vallcarca (L3). T. 93 256 21 22. second half of 20th century by Daily, 8.30am-9.30pm. The Casa multi-faceted creative. de la Guarda museum in Park Güell is part of the ‘monumental area’ of La Virreina Centre de la Imatge the park, and visits are covered by (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 general conditions for admission. 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public Access with ticket only. www. holidays, noon-8pm. parkguell.cat.

FREE Sophie Calle. Modus Vivendi Permanent exhibition The Casa Until Jun 7. French photographer de la Guarda, Park Güell and known for her insight into concepts modernista Barcelona. of privacy and human vulnerability. MUHBA Plaça del Rei MACBA. Museu d’Art (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Contemporani 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7. (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 Reduced: €5. Under-16s free. Free 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; admission Sun from 3pm. Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except Permanent exhibition An public holidays). Whole museum archaeological tour of the Roman ticket: €10. Reduced: €8. colony of Barcino. Haggadot Until Jul 5. 15th-century Iman Issa. Heritage studies Barcelona and Catalan haggadots Until Jun 28. Winner of last year’s (illlustrated Jewish texts). Hans Nefkens prize. Barcelona in late antiquity times Desires and needs Jun 18-May No end date. Exhibition of 15, 2016. New works that have archaeology. joined the MACBA collection. Sergi Aguilar Jun 3-Jan 31, MUHBA Refugi 307 2016. Retrospective of work by (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Barcelona sculptor. Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22. The beast and the sovereign Mon-Sat: guided visits by Until Aug 30. Exploring the limits appointment only. Sun: 10.30am of political sovereignty within (Eng), 11.30am, 12.30pm. Closed Europe. See page 43. public holidays. €3.40.

MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres Modern of underground passageways bear (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I witness to the city’s suffering (L4). T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, during the Civil War. 10am-8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. MUHBA Santa Caterina 21st-century art. Permanent (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Jaume I (L4). exhibition from the museum’s T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Sat 10am- collection with almost 300 2pm. Closed Sun and public paintings and 80 sculptures. holidays.

MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents FREE Permanent exhibition. de Barcelona Archaeological display among the (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 foundations of the Santa Caterina 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-7pm; market.

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MUHBA Turó de la Rovira MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica on expeditions to Asia, Africa, 350 works by 42 of the most (Marià Labèrnia s/n). Bus: (La Rambla, 96). M: Liceu (L3). T. Oceania and the Americas. important artists of the Catalan 119,V17. T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Fri 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10am- Writings. Symbols, words, modernisme movement. 5pm-8pm; Sat, Sun 11am-8pm. midnight. Adults €9. Reduced: €8. powers Until Jan 31, 2016. Portrait of Barcelona Until Oct Permanent exhibition Barcelona Permanent exhibition The 15. The evolution of the city. to the limit. history of eroticism. Museu del Disseny de Barcelona Museu Egipci de Barcelona Museu Blau Museu de la Moto de 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD (València, 284). M: Passeig de (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc Barcelona As June 24 is a Barcelona. Pl. de les Glòries Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. public holiday in Catalanes, 37-38). M: 88. Until Jun 21: Mon-Fri 10am- (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat 933 186 584. Tue-Sat Barcelona, many Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-8pm; 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays 10.30am-2.30pm, museums are 00. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Sun 10am-2pm. From Jun 22: Mon- 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except 3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun closed that day. Closed Mon. €5. Reduced: Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. public holidays). €6. Reduced: 10.30am-2.30pm. €3. museudeldisseny.cat €11. Reduced: €8. €2.70. Museum & Botanical Closed Mon. Gardens €7. From the world to the museum. Permanent exhibition Almost a The history of the motorbike in Product design, cultural heritage thousand exhibits provide a Planet life Permanent exhibition Catalonia 36 of the most Permanent exhibition. Daily objects glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. about the history of live and representative models. considered from a museum Tutankhamun. Story of a evolution of our planet. Bultaco, a legendary motorbike perspective. discovery No end date. Poisoned. The most venemous Until Nov. The musem pays Dressing the body. Silhouettes Remembering the archeological animals in nature Until Dec How homage to one of the greatest and fashion (1550-2014) expedition of 1922 that uncovered natural poisons can kill and save. Spanish motorbike manufacturers. Permanent exhibition. How women the pharaoh’s tomb. Drawings by Luis Feo Until Jan 31, change their shape with clothes. 2016 Museu de la Música Extraordinary! Decorative and Museu Frederic Màres Nutrition, vital instinct Jun 3-May L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries applied arts collections (3rd-20th (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 2016 & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Tue- century) Permanent exhibition. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-8pm. Pieces of art from across the Sun, public holidays 11am-8pm. Museu de Badalona Closed Mon. €5. Reduced: €3.50. centuries including ceramics, Closed Mon (except public (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Free admission Sun from 3pm and textiles, furniture and clocks. holidays). €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. Badalona. M: Badalona-Pompeu for under-16s.. Graphic design: from trade to Fabra (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue- profession Permanent exhibition. Permanent exhibition Its Sat 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & Permanent exhibition Take a Tracing the professionalisation of collection includes a range of public holidays 10am-2pm. €6.48. trip through musical history. graphic design. valuable artworks and objects. Reduced: €2.16. Phonos, 40 years of electronic Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31, music in Barcleona Until Sep 27. Museu del Futbol Club Barcelona 2016. How a trip to Greece Permanent exhibition Visit the The Phonos laboratory was created (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 or 9). inspired sculptor Aristides Maillol. underground remains of Baetulo, in 1974 and became a pioneer in M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00. a Roman City. electro music. 10am-7.30pm (some parts of tour Museu Marítim de Barcelona Intimates. History of underwear, Voices of the Mediterranean. are closed on match day). €23. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: 19th-21st century Until Jun 14 Until Jul 26. Voices from countries Children: €17. Under 6s & FCB Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. What we’ve been wearing under including Italy, Croatia, Greece, members, free. Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. our clothes for the past centuries. Egypt and Algeria. Camp Nou Experience Discover Tenas and the sea Until Jun 14. Museu de Montserrat Museu de la Xocolata 100 years of the club’s history Artworks by Catalan artist whose (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant and visit the stadium. paintings often featured the sea Montserrat). FGC: Monistrol de Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 or themes related to it. Montserrat + zip train. Mon-Sun 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Museu del Mamut 10am-5.45pm. From Jun 20 10am- Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Groups: €4. (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. Museu Nacional d’Art de 6.45pm. €7. Reduced: €4. 93 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am- Catalunya Permanent exhibition 9pm. €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, Permanent Exhibition Paintings The story of chocolate, from its (6-15): €3.50 L3;FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat by El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, origins to its arrival in Europe. 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Permanent exhibition 10am-3pm. Closed Mon (except Picasso. Museu de les Cultures del Món See remains of woolly mammoths public holidays). €12. Admission to The sacredness of Jiménez- (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). and other Ice Age animals. roof terrace €2. Free entry Sat Balaguer Until Jul 5. Retrospective T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am- afternoon, from 3pm. Temporary of work by Catalan artist that 7pm; Sun and public holidays Museu del Modernisme shows: ask at museum. dates from 1956 to 2014. 10am-8pm. Closed Mondays Català Temptations Until Jul 12. (except public holidays). €5. (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia Permanent exhibition World’s Exploring Montserrat’s history Reduced: €3.50. (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon- most important collection of with old postcards and Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Romanesque art and Catalan experiences of artist and climber Permanent exhibition Art, €10. Reduced: €7. modernisme. Lluís Hortalà. books, and other objects gathered Permanent exhibition Gabriel Casas Until Aug 30. Works

52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com The Arts from the ’30s by photographer who Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc was an early proponent of the New Thu 3pm-5.30pm. Individual visits: (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). M: Vision movement. €3. Info: tel. 93 256 68 01 or www. Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec museudeldisseny.cat. (L3). T. 93 289 27 70. www. Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport VGCVTGNNKWTGECV6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP Joan Antoni Samaranch Casa Bloc A symbol of rational Weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: social housing in Barcelona. Margarida Xurgú) and 3 hours before Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 292 shows start (Sala Fabià Puigserver). 53 79. Tue-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, Reial Monestir de Santa Maria public holidays 10am-2.30pm. de Pedralbes L’onzena plaga Jun 4-21. Wed-Fri Closed Mon (except public (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina 9pm; Sat 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm. holidays). €5.10. Students: €3.20. Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. Tue- €12-€21. Play by Victoria Under-7s and over-65s: free. Fri, 10am-5pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, Szpunberg. In Catalan. 10am-8pm. Public holidays, 10am- Un enemic del poble Until Jun 21. Permanent exhibition Explore 2pm. Closed Mon (except public Thu, Fri 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun in-depth the worlds of sport and holidays). €4.40. Reduced: €3.10. 6pm. New version of Ibsen’s An the Olympic Games. Enemy of the People. From June 6, ‘Summits of my life’ by Kilian Permanent exhibition Murals Saturday night show has surtitles Jornet Until Jul 27. Catalan under the magnifying glass – in Spanish and English. In Catalan. mountain skier and runner who paintings from Sant Miquel Chapel. has won numerous competitions. Permanent exhibition Plants, Teatre Nacional de Catalunya remedies and apothecaries – the (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1). T. Museu Picasso monastery’s medieval garden. 93 306 57 00. www.tnc.cat. Ticket (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). QHƁEGUQRGP9GF(TKRO5CV T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; 3-8.30pm; Sun 3-5pm. Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon. €14 (combined ticket for museum + Theatre L’Hort de les Oliveres Until Jun temporary exhibition). Collection 28. Thu-Sat 8pm; Sun 6pm. €28. only: €11. Temporary exhibition Reduced €14. Family drama only: €6.50. El Molino inspired by Shakespeare, Chekov (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). and the Bible. In Catalan. Permanent exhibition More than Tel. 93 205 51 11. www. Incerta glòria Until Jun 14. Wed-Sat 3,800 works from different periods GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU 8pm; Sun 6pm. Play based on novel in Picasso’s life. Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available about Spanish Civil War. In Catalan. Picasso/Dalí, Dalí/Picasso Until via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, Jun 18. View works by the two great 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU Teatre Poliorama 20th-century artists in parallel. (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, V Barcelona Burlesque Festival L3). T. 93 317 75 99. www. Palau Robert Jun 3-13. Wed, Thu 9.30pm. Fri, Sat VGCVTGRQNKQTCOCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal 6.30pm, 9.30pm. €33. Tue-Fri from 5pm. Sat & Sun from 4pm. (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat Burlesque stars show off their skills. 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays El Molino Show-Time Thu, Fri English Pitinglish Jun 14. 10am-2.30pm. 6.30pm. Sat 6.30pm, 9.30pm. 12.30pm. Trilingual family show €33. Special offer: 2 tickets + from Los Pica Pica company. FREE Catalunya Moto Until Oct 25. bottle of cava €50. Cabaret and Duland, el musical Jun 20-21. Sat Show that looks at the history of burlesque show. 5pm. Sun noon and 5pm. €20. motorcycles in Catalonia, covering Rumba Experience Wed, Thu Under-12s €15. Family show in themes of industry, society, 6.30pm. €22.50. Enjoy a new take Spanish. competition and technology. on rumba. FREE RCR Architects. Shared creativity Until Sep 13. Exploring 25 Teatre Gaudí Barcelona years of the Olot architectural (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M: Dance studio and the innovative, shared Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant creativity of founders Rafael Aranda, Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603 Carme Pigem and Ramon Vilalta. 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. L’Auditori FREE Occupied pleasures Until Aug EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGPQPGJQWT (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, Marina 30. Exhibition in the palace gardens. before performances start. (L1) & Monumental (L2). T. 93 247 93 00. www.auditori.cat. Pis-museu Casa Bloc Mares i Filles Until Jun 14. Wed-Sat (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i 10pm. Sun 8pm. €20. Musical in Goldberg Variations Fri 5 8.30pm; Bages (L1). Guided tours in Catalan, Catalan. Sat 6 7.30pm; Sun 7 6pm. €18. Spanish and English: reservations L’Any dels 30 Until Jun 28. Thu-Sat Slovenian dancer Jurij Konjar joins must be made in advance before 8pm. Sun 6pm. €20. Show in forces with Catalan harpsichordist Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am. Catalan. Dani Espasa.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 53 Food & Drink Entrepans, hot

Entrepanes dogs & bikinis Díaz (Pau Claris, 189) Three very different takes on the humble P: €20-€25 sandwich. By Ricard Martín

ENTREPANES DÍAZ IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN ‘How hard is it to toast a slice of ’50s Madrid,’ he explains. The my opinion. Díaz, a creator with Boix bakery – that arrive at the bread? If you toast it from frozen, bar’s name cheekily adds a high standards, is emphatic: ‘I’m table sliced diagonally into chunky it’ll do,’ says bar owner and Spanish ‘e’ to the Catalan word not here to open cut-price cafés, triangles, one balanced on top of restaurateur Kim Díaz. I’d add that for ‘sandwiches’, entrepans. They I’m here to create feelings. To eat the other. According to Eduard if you do it with decent bread from specialise in cooked fillings and well for €20 doesn’t seem Minobis, one of the owners of the previous day, you can turn your rich sauces with an emphasis on expensive to me.’ I agree. It’s seen hamburger joint Oval, ‘First we kitchen into the best snack bar in seafood. ‘Plenty of substance,’ as a virtue in this city to go out were offered the opportunity to do town. ‘In this city we don’t value says Díaz. They use bread from the infrequently, to spend as little as something in this location, then we sandwiches, which have been a Sant Josep bakery, crusty enough possible and to be extremely came up with the concept.’ common thread linking so many to withstand high temperatures demanding. Entrepanes has many Blitz – as in the lightning speed childhoods and generations,’ he and thick sauces, but light and positives: it only employs servers of a well-run fast-food joint rather tells me. butter-free. over 50 – ‘I want professionals who than London in the Second World I try the bocadillo de calamares – know the trade inside out’ – offers War – occupies a chamfered street The Proustian sandwich lightly battered squid with tapas from the south of Spain, and corner near Urquinaona, This Proustian fondness for old- squid ink, a natural anti- has original photos by Maspons traditionally an inhospitable area fashioned sandwiches led to his depressant, mayo – and the surge and Miserachs on the walls. for the hungry passer-by, now with latest venture, Entrepanes Díaz, of euphoria is instantaneous. I all the attractions of a corner bar. which has taken over part of the also love the morcilla de Jaén, Rediscovering the ‘bikini’ ‘We didn’t want anything fancy, we cocktail bar Stinger – a bar that black sausage fluctuating The affected loanword sandvitx, just wanted to do things right,’ says opened barely five minutes ago, magically between a solid and used in Catalan to describe sliced- Minobis. And they’ve succeeded. but feels as if it’s been around liquid state. bread sandwiches, toasted or not, They’ve taken the standard ‘bikini’, forever. It was refurbished by Pedro I was told it was expensive, but strikes me as inadequate for the the toasted cheese and ham Almodóvar’s art director Antón two excellent sandwiches and two robust double-deckers served at sandwich you’ll find in any BCN bar Gómez with marble, wood and tin. well-poured draft beers only set me Blitz. Two serious slices – from or café, to another level, with ‘We wanted it to look like a bar in back €20. Not at all overpriced, in loaves made to order at the Forn delicious griddled fillings such as

54 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] @RicardMartn

Blitz (Plaça Urquinaona, 8) Bar Gilda P: €8-€12

Girona, 175 (Eixample Dret) BAR Mon-Thu 10am-midnight; Fri OF THE MONTH 10am-1am; Sat noon-3.30pm, 7.30pm-1am; Sun noon-4pm.

Next to the Cinemes Girona and opposite the seemingly endless queue at the Japanese noodle bar Ramen-Ya (ya in Spanish means ‘now’, which is ironic because it takes ages to get served there), a couple of years ago Marta and Sergi decided to open a small family bar. The premises had previously housed a rather dull bar, and they decided to inject some soul and feeling into the place to make it their QYP6JGƁTUVVJKPIVJG[FKFYCU take down the stucco that GIMÉNEZ IVAN covered the walls (no small task). and onion sprouts). These are Next they did up the bathroom, all inexpensive delicacies that changed the door and hung a you can pair with a glass of beautiful late-19th-century mirror classic Yzaguirre vermouth – above the bar. with syphon – or, if you’re taking Yango Marta’s parents once owned things a bit more seriously, with (Boqueria Market, the nearby Betlem delicatessen a half-sized G&T (€3.50). La Rambla, 91). (found on C/Girona on the At lunchtime, they have a set P: €8-€15 corner of Consell de Cent), so menu that includes a salad or chicken with find the next phase in the evolution she already knew the area soup to start, and a main that is honey and of the ‘Catalan hot dog’, which he inside-out, and was well versed basically Catalan comfort food mustard, cheddar, launched two summers ago. in top-quality gourmet products. (meatballs, cod, tripe stew), crunchy fried onions and prunes, These, explains Abellan, are Marta studied oenology and bread, a drink, dessert and or smoked tofu – as well as ‘botifarra sausages, in buns from later worked at the restaurant coffee, all for €8.90. The price- frankfurters and classic cured the Forn Josper, on a round-the- Cata 1.81 on C/València and quality relationship is excellent. meats. Blitz opens until midnight, world trip’. The sausages are top she’s brought everything she They do their own version of and excels as a drop-in bar for a a quality and 100-percent organic. learnt to Gilda. You can order a patatas bravas called ‘the mid-morning snack, lunch or a The chef talks about llonganissa – truffled ‘bikini’ (which in these devil’s drum’ (el timbal del quick drink that won’t break the in Aragon and some parts of parts means a toasted ham and dimoni), which features sweet bank. Last month their programme Catalonia, that’s how the botifarra cheese sandwich as well as a potato Parmentier with a slice of of DJ sessions featured local is known, just as in Berga it’s two-piece swimsuit) that’s so black sausage (bull negre) and luminaries such as Mujeres and called a tastet – and he thinks ‘it good customers snatch them spicy sauce – delicious! They CaboSanRoque, and the mix of could be a new paradigm in the out of the servers’ hands change the menu every season indie kids and dressed-up theatre world of urban food’. We the (they’re made with truffle butter, so that they always stay fresh. goers was explosive. customers are the winners, ham and Manchego cheese), They’re creative and because his yangos are delicious – salmorejo balls (salmorejo is a enthusiastic, and it clearly The Catalan botifarra goes the ‘Perú,’ with red onion, lime, cold tomato soup typical of shows – clients leave happy, international coriander, aji and huancaína, will Andalusia, thicker than the more they tell others about it and A third reason for bread-lovers to linger on your taste buds for days – well-known gazpacho; the balls come back themselves. A be cheerful. Under the arcades of and are a lot cheaper here than at are made with cherry tomatoes, treasure worth hunting out. the Boqueria, Carles Abellan has his beach bar: all of them except an injection of salmorejo and an –Martí Sales finally installed the first bricks-and- the ‘Català’ (with truffle and wild anchovy) or ‘pig coca’ (herb mortar incarnation of his Yango mushrooms in season) cost mustard, two pork medallions, FOOTNOTE Gastrobar with a Urban Food food truck. Here you’ll between €4.80 and €5.50. tomato caramelised with basil, traditional spirit and approach.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 55 Food & Drink

Llamber

this occasion I let a yen for a classic dish get the better of me. Of Fusina, 5 (El Born). course you can order a platter of T. 93 319 62 50. P: Around €25-€30. cheese or cold meats. But at .NCODGTO[WPƁPKUJGFDWUKPGUUKU Llamber is a gastrotaverna whose of a different kind. When I go to a alma mater is in Avilés, the restaurant I like, the options I leave Asturian city on the north-west for the next visit are always ones coast of Spain. With Francisco that speak to the soul more than Heras in charge of the kitchen and the belly. In this case, they sound Eva Arbonés as maître d’, this OCIPKƁEGPVVQQs2CTOGUCP translucent space, which radiates fondue with langoustines and wild the renewed atmosphere of the asparagus, a home-made terrine of Born, is an interesting venture that foie gras with apricots, fresh cod adds dimension to an area already with guacamole, or the morcilla de bursting with character. I’m sure BurgosYKVJDCD[EWVVNGƁUJ5QOG that under the table where we ate, are tapas for sharing, others are characters from the tasting dishes. neighbourhood’s turbulent history The last section of the menu is have left their footprint. dedicated to llambiotaes (sweet I was introduced to Llamber by treats), like the apple pie with Gerardo, a great discoverer of sharp Asturian cider. The wine list restaurants and, like any good is extensive and it makes a Madrid native, used to eating in YGNEQOGEJCPIGVQƁPF&1UQVJGT VJCVEKV[oUOCIPKƁEGPV#UVWTKCP than the overexploited Rioja and taverns. Ribera del Duero. But Llamber is not your typical –&CPKGN8½\SWG\5CNNÅU| Asturian restaurant. Heras has succeeded in fusing the traditional cuisine of the region with the styles THE BILL of cooking he learnt at El Bulli, La Broche in Miami and Arola in the (For 2) Hotel Arts. One example is the 1 ‘Patatines’ ...... €6 patatines – potatoes with cabrales, 1 Marinated salmon ...... €13.00 the powerful Asturian goat cheese 1 Mature beef entrecôte ...... €22.00 with a hazelnut praline – a knowing 2 Caipirinhas ...... €18 wink at Arola’s patatas bravas. The home-marinated salmon TOTAL (inc VAT) ...... €59.00 with citrus fruits, ginger and ginger KEGETGCOKUURGEVCEWNCT+VƂQQFU the palate with freshness. The Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink grilled mature beef entrecôte is critics review anonymously and also praiseworthy. I admit that on pay their own bills.

56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com +PVQVJGƁTG

uses raw materials from Holland. Good interior design that doesn’t overwhelm. And a good wine list. I start with a red, Brutal from Les Gavarres, and move on to a smooth Mencia from Algueira. The yucca and scamorza cheese croquettes could use a little more citric mayonnaise to lighten the texture.The tracciatella burrata with a hazelnut praline and fried aubergines is a risky but JOSEP GARCIA successful combination, although the vegetables lose out somewhat. Top marks for the The bar is the stage corball ceviche – perfectly cut – with yellow chilli. An impressive Mano Rota – run by a Venezuelan and a Catalan – brings together score for the tuna with a jus of HCTƂWPIVTCFKVKQPUYKVJUVWPPKPITGUWNVU$[Pau Arenós lomo saltado (a Peruvian touch) – a sauce that would work with ‘It’s more than just a bar for only a week after they opened, dish – but Thai? Just reading it almost anything. Then another drinking, or a bar counter to sit and I know this is one of the made my head spin. Two serving knockout dish: thin strips of raw at,’ says Oswaldo Brito. restaurant openings of the year. dishes – one with coconut milk, +DGTKCPRQTMƁNNGVEQQMGFQPVJG ‘Restaurant with bar’ is how they Is it possible to know when a peanuts, lime and green curry, spot in hot dashi. The jowl bacon FGƁPGKV+NKMGVJGEQPEGRV6JG dish really matters? Naturally. and the other a paella pan with a with dried apricots, miso and bar as a destination, not an There’s always one that stands gift wrapped in Carta Fata paper: mustard is a bravura accessory. That bar counter, QWVCDQXGVJGTGUVVJCV[QWƁPF sea bass with a sofregit sauce, performance. I move on to the behind which Oswaldo Brito and yourself thinking about days after the foundation of Mediterranean desserts, white chocolate and Bernat Bermudo work, is the you devoured it. This happened to Catalan cuisine. Unwrap it, and it Greek yoghurt with red fruits. heart of Mano Rota. It’s at the me with the Thai suquet. Suquet – releases delicious aromas. Each Less convincing, due to an back, standing guard over the VJGENCUUKE%CVCNCPƁUJGTOCPoU OQWVJHWNQHƁUJCPFUQHTGIKVKUVQ excess of sugar, was the Irish private room and the kitchen be dipped in the white Thai coffee, although the coffee itself door. Brito and Bermudo are old sauce. Disparate traditions that is exceptional, from Jordi Mestre hands and new arrivals. Veterans WHAT ELSE? work together. Mano Rota is that at Nomad coffee. QHVQRTGUVCWTCPVUVJG[ƁTUVOGV Thai suquet. Close to home and The Avinguda del Paral·lel area, at Barcelona’s Hofmann catering Look out for: far away. Brito is Venezuelan. under its reigning monarch Albert school. Their paths kept on The Carta Blanca – let the Bermudo is Catalan. They worked #FTK¼KUQPƁTG6JGUJQYKUPQ crossing, as their careers chefs decide for you. together in Lima and bring longer at its theatres, but its survived oceans, partners and Recommended if: common sense and knowledge restaurants. offspring. Tired of working for You’re looking for new taste to fusion. other people, they’ve joined horizons. Mano Rota has two bars, one MANO ROTA forces at Mano Rota – literally Stay away if: at the entrance, for aperitifs and Creu dels Molers, 4 (Poble-sec). ‘broken hand’, a Spanish idiom You prefer your tapas cocktails, and one at the back, T. 93 164 80 41. P: €25-€30 (not that refers not to an injury but to predictable and dull. with tables between them. including wine). consummate skill. I saw plenty of Seated in front of the two chefs, I Set menu: €14 (lunch), €35 and skill on display during my visit, appreciate the carpentry, which €55.

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Topping Circus (Avinyó, 27) Ice cream: deliciously cool has 100 treats to top your ice What better way to take a break from your sightseeing than with cream. an indulgent ice cream? By Ricard Martín

NATURALLY SPEAKING NOVELTY FACTOR FLAVOUR INSPIRATION IVÁN MORENO IVÁN GIMÉNEZ IVAN DELACREM VIOKO MANNÀ GELATS Massimo Pignata’s ice creams are 100-percent The philosophy here is ‘high quality at normal Set up by a Venezuelan couple, this ice cream natural, just as his Piedmontese grandparents prices’. They serve 31 flavours, from vanilla to parlour includes tropical fruit flavours from would have liked. Enric Granados, 15. grapefruit with jasmine. Pg. Joan de Borbó, 55. their home country. Banys Nous, 22. IVÁN MORENO IVÁN GELAAATI DI MARCO EYESCREAM XOCOCAKE Named one of the world’s top ice cream shops, Shaved ice cream is their thing – a small slab of Take note, chocolate fans: they have ten choccy and their crema catalana variety (pictured) is the creamy stuff is thinly sliced, then topped with flavours, from passion fruit with white chocolate an award-winner. Llibreteria, 7. two edible eyes. Pg. Joan de Borbó, 30. to Guanaja dark chocolate. Gran de Gràcia, 17. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN BODEVICI SNÖMELK BELGIOUS This was the first place in Spain to sell totally Even if its name sounds like a Sigur Ros album, Belgian Michel de Bièvre describes his wares organic ice cream and frozen yoghurt with a and the aesthetic is definitely Scandi, this is an as ‘high definition ice cream’, for which only the variety of fruit toppings. Torrijos, 21. Italian ice cream shop. Pl. Marcus, 6. best ingredients will do. Rbla. Poblenou, 24.

58 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com SPECIAL SECTION

El Mercat de Glòries 360º gastronomic experience Located in the 22@ district, opposite the Agbar Tower, and minutes from the Sagrada Família, El Mercat de Glòries is a unique spot in one of Barcelona’s must-visit areas

ound in the most space is inspired by the aesthetic Catalan ‘market food’, made ranging and delicious options that advanced technological of Barcelona’s many markets. The using seasonal ingredients and combine tradition and innovation. neighbourhood of graphic design for El Mercat de internationally celebrated, plays an You’ll also find excellent meat, Barcelona, close to the Glòries was produced by Javier important part there. You’ll find two fish and international food that you iconic Agbar Tower and Mariscal, renowned for creating the typical Catalan restaurants can choose a la carte. If you’re in a Fthe remodelled Glòries Catalanes mascot for the 1992 Barcelona (including a branch of the oldest hurry, tapas is the perfect choice square, El Mercat de Glòries is the Olympic Games. The market one in Barcelona) where they serve for you. In addition, the take-away city’s newest focal point for top features 20 different home-made dishes based on service, available in all the local and international gastronomy. establishments including stands traditional recipes that have been establishments, means that El It has won a loyal following among with fresh, traditional products, adapted to modern cooking – Mercat de Glòries is excellent for the many creative professionals gourmet shops, take away food smoked sardine tapa, oxtail, Wagyu anyone planning a picnic on the from the sectors of design, art, joints, tasting bars, and ribeye steak, cod carpaccio and beach. And on Thursday culture and the internet who restaurants. It’s open non-stop wild mushroom croquettes are just evenings,enjoy live music with your populate the area, which has been from 8am to midnight. a small selection from the wide- food. The decor combines a dubbed 22@. modern look with typical Catalan Nearby is the Design Museum, modernista touches, such as the the newly developed Glòries mosaic floor, a style made popular square, and the daring architecture by Antoni Gaudí at the end of the of those companies that have 19th century and start of the 20th. recently moved into the district, El Mercat de Glòries is, without a while the beaches are easily doubt, a unique place that is ideal accesible on foot, bike or the tram for something to eat at any time of that runs to the Fórum de las day and with prices to suit all Culturas zone – all of which means budgets. that if you head to El Mercat de Glòries for a meal or tapas, it will be El Mercat de Glòries Glòries a memorable experience. Shopping Centre – Floor -1 Found on the lower ground floor Diagonal, 208. Tel: 93 486 04 04 of Glòries shopping centre, the www.lesglories.com

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additives, at accessible prices. Catalan cuisine FIVE-STAR DINING FROM €15 Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. M: Jaume I (L4) 7 portes The eponymous Seven Doors Casa Mariol open on to as many dining At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, salons, all kitted out in elegant which is part of the bodega of the 19th-century décor. Long- same name, you’ll have the aproned waiters bring regional chance to get to know suau, which FKUJGUKPENWFKPICUVGY[ƁUJ is a version of a drink (a blend of zarzuela with half a lobster, a soda and coffee) that was FKHHGTGPVRCGNNCFCKN[ UJGNNƁUJ popular in the Ribera de l’Ebre for example, or rabbit and region decades ago. You can also snails), a wide array of fresh taste cask wines from the Ebre, seafood, and heavier dishes accompanied by a nice clotxa such as herbed black-bean (bread stuffed with herring, stew with pork sausage, and onions, tomatoes and garlic), and QTWLQUQTDGVVQƁPKUJ then top it all off with delicious Reservations are available only cakes from Batea (a town also in for certain tables; otherwise, the Ebre). get there early. Rosselló, 442. Passatge Isabel II, 14. Grand Hotel Central T. 93 436 76 28. T. 93 319 30 33. +PVJG%KV[$CTQHVJKUƁXGUVCTJQVGN[QWECPGPLQ[CITGCV M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) M: Barceloneta (L4) deal on set menus, for either lunch or dinner. Opt for two courses and a drink for €19, or just one course and drink Magatzem Escolà Agut It looks like a hoarder’s Barcelona has a wealth of HQTasFKUJGUKPENWFGUCNCFURCUVCDWTIGTUCPFƁUJ paradise of wine bottles, but eateries that have improved over Via Laietana, 30 (Ciutat Vella). T. 93 481 67 67. the shop’s staff know exactly the years. Many are back on the YJGTGGXGT[VJKPIKU;QWoNNƁPFC map after having been forgotten, great variety of products, which and some have the added bonus PWVUEWVVNGƁUJYKVJCTVKEJQMGU have two standout dishes: the is the result of a company that of having modernised without CPFRGTJCRUVJGƁPGUV capipota and the oxtail. really knows its business and going over the top, to catch up macaroni in Barcelona. Sant Rafael, 24. has spent more than half a with the demand for the quality Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. T. 93 441 30 14. century dedicated to wine products that their clients want. M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) distribution. Keep an eye out for One such case is Agut. their wine tasting and cocktail Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. Restaurant Gaig events. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) It’s currently all the rage for Wine bars Comercial, 13. Barna’s top chefs to set up T. 93 167 26 55. Bar Velódromo more-affordable offshoots, and Bar Nostàlgic M: Barceloneta (L4) This classic serves quality dishes this one is under the guiding Although located in the from early morning until the wee hand of Carles Gaig. The chef’s fashionable Sant Antoni market Monvínic hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the philosophy, here as in his other area, this bar does not mimic This is one of the largest city’s masters in the kitchen) at ventures, is a return to the Nordic aesthetic of most information centres for wine not the helm, they produce an grandmotherly Catalan basics, new local establishments. They only in Europe but the world over. endless succession of dishes and the favourite dish here is serve a good selection of It’s also a wine bar and and tapas that will teach you the canelons – hearty, steaming wines, particularly from restaurant. The latter – which about Catalonia’s gastronomic VWDGUQHRCUVCƁNNGFYKVJ Catalonia, plus they have good focuses on traditional cuisine heritage. The full menu is shredded beef and topped with beer on tap and an impressive with a creative touch – is available all day, so if you fancy a fragrant béchamel. The list of gins, malt whiskies and excellent, by the way. some Iberian ham at 7am or a various dining rooms manage special rums. Gin and tonics, Diputació, 249. croissant for a midnight snack, to be both modern and spritz... they make it all, T. 93 272 61 87. just say so. wonderfully comfortable. including tapas to please even M: Universitat (L1,L2) Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 60 22. Còrsega, 200. the most sybaritic palates. M: Hospital Clínic (L5) T. 93 453 20 20. Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2) M: Hospital Clínic (L5) Seafood Freixa Tradició Can Cisa/Bar Brutal The return of Josep Maria Freixa Casa Lepoldo This restored neighbourhood Els Pescadors to his family home, now that Rosa Gil, the heart and soul of bar combines a classic bodega Josep Maulini and his wife have Ramón has gone off to enjoy this lovely eatery, has carried at the entrance with a wine bar turned this into a lovely spot, fame in Madrid, has resulted out a veritable revolution here, at the back. They stock 300 combining antique furniture with in an authentic festival of and with excellent results. The wines, all from organic or bio- modern décor, and retaining its traditional cuisine: pig’s cuisine has improved – which is dynamic producers around the air of a small-town bar. One trotters with prunes and pine really saying something. They world, without chemicals or delicious recommendation:

60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Food & Drink grilled sardines in sauce, though Piazze d’Italia they don’t always have them. Rice A temple of southern Italian dishes are a staple on the menu, cuisine with an innovative and and never disappoint. provocative twist. The pizza Plaça Prim, 1. chef makes the dough spin and T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) FCPEGCDQXGJKUƁPIGTVKRU before transforming it into an Rías de Galicia outstanding crust. Dare to try This restaurant is the setting for their sweet Nutella pizza, which the Iglesias family’s wonderful is completely over the top, but TGNCVKQPUJKRYKVJVJGƁPGUV not to be missed. seafood. The menu includes Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. Cantabrian lobster with garlic, M: Rocafort (L1) John Dory and txangurro crab cannelloni. And when it’s in season, they have the Don’t go Tapas exquisite Bordeaux hungry. Book lamprey. restaurants at Bar del Pla Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. timeout.com/ Positioned M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) barcelona somewhere between a French bistro and a Tabarca Langosta’s Club tapas bar, the Bar del Tino Martínez, sailor and chef Pla serves tapas and small extraordinaire, has opened an plates (divine pig’s trotters with unusual restaurant in foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). Barcelona specialising in Drinks include Mahou on tap (a lobster: he has recovered the ƁPGDGGTQHVGPKIPQTGFJGTG TGEKRGUQHVJGNQDUVGTƁUJGTOGP because it’s from Madrid), plus from the island of Tabarca, and some good wines by the glass. he does so with a menu that Montcada, 2. includes lobster and rice T. 93 268 30 03. cooked in the lobster stock. M: Jaume I (L4) Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. M: Universitat (L1,L2) El Jabalí This deli bar, which is reminiscent of Paral·lel in its Pizza heyday, is a great place to eat wonderful tapas – try the La Bella Napoli patatas bravas, the chicken There can be few Barcelona salad and the cured sausage – residents who haven’t tried the while sipping on good wine. It’s wonderful pizzas served in this also a nice place to sit on the place with an authentic Italian terrace and do some serious atmosphere, with noisy, people watching. cheerful waiters. Book a table if Ronda Sant Pau, 15. you’re going at the weekend. T. 93 441 10 82. Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Tapas 24 La Bricciola Another nu-trad tapas bar A real Italian trattoria with good focusing on quality produce. pizzas and fantastic pasta. Among the oxtail stews, fried Features a good wine list and prawns and cod croquettes, some great Italian grappa. however, fans of chef Carles Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. #DGNNCPYKNNCNUQƁPFRNC[HWN M: Mercat Nou (L1) snacks more in keeping with his signature style. The McFoie Murivecchi Burger is an exercise in fast- This restaurant-trattoria is a food heaven, as is the ‘bikini’, direct relative of Un Posto al Sol a small version of his take on on C/Urgell, and they both make the ham and cheese toastie. really good pizzas. Diputació, 269. Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. T. 93 488 09 77. M: Jaume I (L4) M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn Versus: the Sónar alternative +H[QWFKFPoVIGVVKEMGVUVQ5ÏPCTsQTFKFDWVJCXGOCPCIGFVQƁPFCVKP[URCEGKP[QWT busy schedule – this event can’t be missed. By Javier Blánquez

June in Barcelona is a stressful Barcelona’s new techno label time for electronic music fans, not (TKFC[ HQNNQYGFD[*KGTQIN[RJKE just because right in the middle is Being and Sunny Graves, and mega-festivalSónar with its %TÄOG1TICPKUCVKQPVJGDKI&WVEJ RCEMGFRTQITCOOG 9JGTGVQ GPVGTRTKUGYKVJ&,6.4CPF/CTEQ UVCTV!9JGTGVQƁPKUJ! DWVCNUQ $GTPCTFK 5CVWTFC[  CPFKPRCTVKEWNCTDGECWUGHQTVJG The big draw, however, will be in RCUVHGY[GCTU5ÏPCTJCUKPURKTGF VJGOCKPTQQO5KORN[RWVKVYKNN CPKPETGFKDNGPWODGTQHRCTVKGU be an enormous orgy of quality CTQWPFVJGEKV[6JGƁTUVQPGVQ electronica, with the best of each URTKPIWRYCU8GTUWUETGCVGFD[ genre celebrating a moment of ENWDPKIJV0KVUCCV5CNC#RQNQ6JG MICHAEL MAYER GWRJQTKCKPCEQPVGZVVJCVYG RTQITCOOGYJKEJKPENWFGUVJTGG CNTGCF[MPQYYKNNDGURGEKCN(TQO HWNNPKIJVUQHVQRƂKIJV&,UYCU ,WPGVQVJGTGYKNNDGC QTKIKPCNN[FGUKIPGFVQRWNNRGQRNG different energy in Barcelona, and away from Sónar with a counter- VJGUGRCTVKGUYKNNCNUQUGGVJG QHHGTKPVJGUJCRGQHCPCOC\KPI RTGUGPEGQHQVJGTCTVKUVU NKPGWR$WVVJGNGXGNQH celebrities and label heads. The EQORGVKVKQPJCUTGCEJGFUWEJC Numbers event on Thursday will ferocious level, with international be eclectic – as well as the Italian RTQOQVGTUCNNQXGTVJGRNCEGVT[KPI TCXGXGVGTCP.QT[&VJGOCKP VQECRKVCNKUGQPVJGVJQWUCPFUQH CVVTCEVKQPYKNNDGVJGDCEMDCEM sessions by Jackmaster and 5RGPEGTCPF,&6YKVEJCPF,) ALAN FITZPATRICK 9KNMGU DGVVGTMPQYPCU1RVKOQ  The level of (TKFC[YKNNCNUQDGKPVGTGUVKPIs HTQPVKPIVJG-QORCMVUSWCFTQPKU competition is label head Michael Mayer and the so ferocious that GNGEVTKH[KPI4GZ6JG&QICUYGNN as The Orb, the mythic ambient- even Versus has JQWUGFWQHTQOVJGoUYJQYKNN IKXGPWRVJGƁIJV RNC[NKXG#PFHQTCPKPVGPUGƁPCN VQCPGZSWKUKVG8GTUWUNKPGWR RGQRNGYJQEQOGVQ$CTEGNQPC enjoy the best of English house that weekend, that even the HTQOVJG*QVƂWUJNCDGNYKVJ 8GTUWUVGCOJCXGCDCPFQPGF GZEGNNGPVRTQFWEGTUCPF&,UUWEJ their confrontational instinct. CU)GQTIG(KV\IGTCNF#NCP Instead they’ve followed the GEORGE FITZGERALD (KV\RCVTKEM$QFFKMC GZRGEV GZCORNGQH5ÏPCTD[VTWUVKPIKP CIKVCVGFGNGEVTQHTQOJKO ,CEM quality to make them stand out. *CKIJVQPCPFCURGEKCNIWGUVYJQ 'XGT[GFKVKQPQH8GTUWUHQTVJG we imagine will be Scuba. If Sónar RCUVHGY[GCTUJCUDGGPUJCRGF FQGUPoVFQKVHQT[QW8GTUWUKUVJG around theme nights focused on EQQNEQPXKPEKPICPFEJGCR RTGUVKIKQWUNCDGNUCPFVJKU[GCT QRVKQP various classics return – Numbers 6JWTUFC[ -QORCMV (TKFC[ CPF Versus 2015 *QVƂWUJ 5CVWTFC[ 9JCVoUOQTG Nitsa Club and La [2] de Nitsa at they’re going for twice as much Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, CEVKQPD[VCMKPIQXGTDQVJURCEGU 113) and La [2] de Apolo (Nou de CV#RQNQVJGOCKP5CNCCPF.C=? la Rambla, 111). June 18-20, The latter will feature showcases JACKMASTER 11pm. (KPFOQTGKPHQCPFDW[ from Modern Obscure Music, VKEMGVUCVYYYUCNCCRQNQEQO

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GOING IT ALONE CROOKERS Crookers 9JCVYCUQPEGCLQKPVRTQLGEVHQTVYQ/KNCP&,URTQFWEGTU JCUPQYDGEQOGCUQNQXGPVWTG$WVVJGFGRCTVWTGQH RCTVPGT$QVKPFQGUPoVUGGOVQJCXGFGPVGF&,2JTCoU enthusiasm – last year he released Crookers’ sixth album, Sixteen Candles. Razzmatazz. Friday 26, 1am.

obsessive fans, all under the Sessions watchful eye of MC, US comedian CPFCEVQT4CEJGN#TKGHH Nasty Mondays Sidecar Factory Club (details Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price the city’s wildest Monday night includes one drink. RCTV[/KUUKVCV[QWTRGTKN Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Cupcake 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon 6CMGCVTKRFQYPOGOQT[NCPG midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 without forgetting to live in the (advance). Price includes one drink. moment, with hits from the oUTKIJVWRVQVJGRTGUGPVFC[ Raw Rebels Sala Apolo (details above). Thu &CPEGVQVJGDGUVDGCVUQHVJG 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 oUoUCPFoUYKVJNQECN (advance). Price includes one drink. CPFKPVGTPCVKQPCN&,UKPVJG heart of the city. The Bus Music Club Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, Session celebrating non- 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. commercial, non-mainstream €5. Price includes one drink. and underground music. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). Caníbal Sound M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. System €15 (on the door). €13 (advance). .KXGCEVU&,UCPFTQQVUOWUKE Price includes one drink. make for an underground vibe at this long-running club night. Happy Techno Sala Apolo (details above). Wed The beat will get you at this 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 YGGMGPFRCTV[FGFKECVGFVQPGY (advance). Price includes one age and old-school dance music. drink. City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat Anti-Karaoke 12.30am. €12-€18 (depends on This is the hard rock version of arrival time and if you sign up on MCTCQMGYKVJFTGUUKPIWRCPF guest list). Price includes one drink.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 63 Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] LGBT @itramselas

With a lot of pride Pride Barcelona is from June 20 to To celebrate Gay Pride Day on June 28, Barcelona puts on a big party with a 28. All the details are on serious message. Josep Maria Sarri explains why you can’t miss it pridebarcelona. org The parade The village This is the Pride event that All day Friday and Saturday, and attracts the biggest crowds, right up until 2am, this space and the most diverse range QP#X/CTKC%TKUVKPCYKNNDGC of participants. From 4pm, great place to hang out, meet there will be a warm-up event and make friends, and in the Parc de les Tres generally get into the spirit of Xemeneies (Three Chimneys the occasion. There will be Park, Av. Paral·lel, 49). The stalls from around 30 RCTCFGYKVJKVUXCTKQWUƂQCVU associations, a kids’ zone that will then traverse Av. Paral·lel includes bouncy castles and VQƁPKUJKP#X/CTKC%TKUVKPC various games, a shopping just off Plaça Espanya and area, bar and terrace. And the the heart of the festivities. best part is, it’s all for free. Saturday 27, 6pm Friday 26, 11am (inauguration) JESUS ORTEGA GARCIA The drag race Presented by popular local personality Deborah Ombres, and accompanied by live music, VJKUGXGPVQP#X/CTKC%TKUVKPC will see the queen of the parade crowned by last year’s winner (left). If you want your own moment in the spotlight, why not take part in the High Heel race? It kicks off at 8pm and you have to make sure your shoes are at least 7cm high. Be warned, though – competition for the €250 prize is savage. Friday 26, 9pm JESUS ORTEGA GARCIA

The foam party The closing party One of the most fun parts of The big blowout after the Pride Barcelona is this night- parade will bring together time take on the popular kids’ thousands of revellers in Plaça activity. Litres of soap and Espanya with a concert bubbles will be pumped into a featuring Spagna, local URCEGQP#X/CTKC%TKUVKPCHQT favourite Lucrecia and DJ Yeyo, what has become a key followed by the DJ Pride Party tradition of the weekend. We YKVJ&,5KVC/QQTG#ƁVVKPIGPF love it and wouldn’t miss it for to these days of fun that, we the world, but a tip to foam shouldn’t forget, are all in the virgins – those bubbles can PCOGQHVJGƁIJVHQTIC[TKIJVUs cause irritation, so best apply this year’s message: stop vaseline to your sensitive parts. LGBTI bullying everywhere. Friday 26, 11pm Saturday 26, 9pm JESUS ORTEGA GARCIA

64 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Getaways

1 2

1. The dance of 3 4 the Eagle at La Patum 2. Boats on parade in 8KNCPQXCKNC )GNVTÖ 3. Floral carpets KP.C)CTTKIC 4. Succulent Roca cherries MANEL CUESTA MANEL ESCOBET/ FOTO LUIGI MANEL ESCOBET/ FOTO Celebrate Catalan traditions You don’t have to travel far out of the city to discover unique local festivities. By Nick Chapman

1. La Patum de Berga 2. Setmana del Mar i Festa de 3. El Corpus de la Garriga 4. Fira de la Cirera d’en Roca – It’s the pounding beat of the leather Sant Pere – Vilanova i la Geltrú Ten days before the date of Arenys de Munt drum (tabal) that gives Berga’s To coincide with the feast day of Corpus Christi, preparations for What could be nicer on a hot June biggest festival its name – patum, Saint Peter, patron saint of .C)CTTKICoUOQUVKORQTVCPV day than a ripe cherry, sweet and patum – a ponderous but relentless ƁUJGTOGP8KNCPQXCKNC)GNVTÖ annual festival get underway. The LWKE[DWVYKVJCJKPVQHCEKFKV[CPF rhythm that sets in motion a remembers its maritime heritage OCKPUVTGGVUCTGENQUGFVQVTCHƁE a perfect deep red hue? Arenys de centuries-old dance of mystical during the Week of the Sea. Over 50 so that local organisations and Munt celebrates the unique local characters, a giant eagle, angels, events in, on or around the sea take schools can decorate them with Roca variety at the Fira de la devils, and Christian and Turkish place, including seafaring songs, a DTKIJVN[EQNQWTGFECTRGVUQHƂQYGT Cirera d’en Roca, named after the knights. Recognised by UNESCO as sandcastle-building competition petals, broom, carnations and two brothers who brought them to a masterpiece of intangible and sea swimming. The gerbera daisies, evergreen the area in the late 19th century, heritage, records of the festival centrepiece is the seaborne leaves, and husks of rice and when local wine producers, their date to 1454, but its origins RTQEGUUKQPKPYJKEJƁUJGTOGPoU other grains. Festival-goers can vineyards devastated by probably go back even further. It guilds parade an image of Saint go on guided tours of the town’s RJ[NNQZGTCRNCIWGYGTGNQQMKPI culminates in the Salt de Plens, Peter through the port, ƁPGGZCORNGUQHOQFGTPKUVC for an alternative crop. The fair is which turns the town’s Plaça de CEEQORCPKGFD[CƂQVKNNCQH architecture, which includes the your chance to buy cherries Sant Pere into an inferno of decorated boats and ships. It’s also Illa Raspall, and the remains of directly from growers, and to ƁTGYQTMUOWUKECPFLWDKNCVKQP a gastronomic celebration of local the Roman thermal baths. June 7. sample recipes that showcase June 3-7. www.lapatum.cat specialities. June 19-29. www.visitalagarriga.cat/ca/ VJGKTƂCXQWT www.vilanovaturisme.cat el-corpus June 24. www.arenysdemunt.cat

www.barcelonaismuchmore.com

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Top Ten between C/Diputació and 1. Gran Via, you can watch Barça Bar Delicias matches without having to Right at the top of C/ de Historic hear homophobic insults Mühlberg (No. 1) is this corner directed at the referee. bar made of fake stone. Not only is it an ideal spot for a bars vermouth in the sun, Catalan 7. author Juan Marsé made it the Antic Teatre hang-out for one of his most Who would think that behind famous characters, Pijoaparte the low entrance with stairs you in Last Evenings with Teresa ƁPFCV%8GTFCIWGTK%CNNÉU (1966). Once you’re spirit is an alternative theatre is hiding? sated, walk to the nearby +VoURQRWNCTYKVJNQECNUVJCPMU aqueduct-like bridge that offers to its terrace and bar shaded by fabulous city views. out-of-control vegetation. Decadent beauty – and a great 2. cultural programme. Madame George This bar at C/Pujades, 179, in 8. the Poblenou district, is small Mirablau and welcoming with an interior On the small square where you space that calls to mind a take the funicular up to Tibidabo theatre. The designer didn’t hold (Pl. Doctor Andreu) is this bar back when it came to choosing with an incredible city view, a vivid wallpaper and a chandelier 4 BCN classic that amply proves

that wouldn’t be out of place in MARIA DIAS that the upper classes know your aunty’s dining room. how to live. On its website, it says that this is the ‘place to be’ in Barcelona. We don’t know 3. about that, but we can vouch Marsella that it’s a great spot to hang out A mythic spot at C/ de Sant Pau, until the sun comes up. 65, it was at risk of closure a few years back, when the then- owner sold the whole building of 9. which it occupies the ground Gimlet ƂQQT+PVJGGPFUCNXCVKQPECOG (QWPFCV%FGN4GE)KONGV in the shape of the city council, LWUVNKMGVJCVQVJGTƁPGEQEMVCKN so you can still make like Dalí, venue Boadas at C/ dels Tallers, Picasso and Hemingway by 1) has a problem that can also drinking absinthe there. DGCPCFXCPVCIGKVUUK\G+VoUUQ 6 small that you’ll inevitably start speaking to the person next to 4. IRENE FERNÁNDEZ you, even if it’s just to apologise Hotel Vela MACBA is a must-visit for anyone for spilling your drink over them. The bar at the top of the W Hotel interested in the city’s poetry (known locally as Hotel Vela for scene. The multifaceted its sail [vela]-like design) creative Meritxell Cucurella was 10. provides spectacular views, DGJKPFVJGƁTUVTGEKVCNUCPF Antic Resolís especially of sunsets over the Ferran Garcia and Josep Pedrals This gypsy bar in Plaça del city. Once night has fallen, the have now taken over, so they’re Raspall has proved resistant to ambient music changes from in good hands. Horiginal is modernisation. When the owner zen sounds for contemplating Barcelona’s poetry incubator. sold it, there were many fears the universe to electronica ideal for the future. Luckily, it was for travelling towards it. Note: bought by the Ateneu kids aren’t allowed. 6. +PFGRGPFGPVKUVCFG)T¼EKC La Sue BCN which has kept the venue just as There are plenty of gay bars in it was with the added bonus of 5. Barcelona, but we’ve selected now serving an excellent paella. Horiginal this one for women looking for 5 This bar situated opposite the women. At C/Villarroel, 60, By Ada Castells

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