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Barcelona Única

Barcelona Única

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Catalonia

Catalonia Barcelona

Barcelona Barcelona one and only

Barcelona is one of the few cities whose product of the repeated influxes of foreign blood personality reflects an increasingly clear, yet ever that are the lot of all cosmopolitan, hospitable, changing and multifarious image the more you open-minded cities, and these factors doubtless get to know them. Even fewer are those which also account for the vitality of its population and reveal such startling contrasts, as between for its rich cultural and artistic heritage. worlds beating with a different pulse. Barcelona is a many-hued, vital city that changes with Barcelona now enjoys a position as a premiere the light as the hours go by and fluctuates with tourist destination; a paradigmatic city chock the seasons. It is a social mosaic, all of whose full of the type of possibilities that can be offered pieces bear the imprint of the slow historical by a people who have known how to blend a process that has made it unique. long and solid traditional lifestyle with the dynamism and capacity for carrying out a series Barcelona is a two thousand-year-old city, the of extraordinary modernisation projects. The capital of a country with a millennium of history city seized the opportunity of the 1992 Olympic –Catalonia– to which it gives cohesion. Its whole Games to carry out widespread renewal. Since past is projected into its present; in its buildings then, Barcelona has continued to ascend and and streets the story of its growth from ancient is on its way to becoming the main logistical times is clearly written. It is the essentially centre in southern , and one of the great maritime capital of a people of merchants and cultural poles of the Mediterranean. sailors. In short, it is a Mediterranean city.

Its unrivalled location and beauty are matched by the friendliness of its people. Its tradition of initiative, hard work and creativity is largely the

4 Christ in Majesty. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC)

5 The old city

Barcelona was founded by the Romans declined in the Visigothic period, despite who, during the reign of Emperor Augustus a brief period as capital under Ataülf (415). (27 BC - 14 AD), established a new colony, Captured by the Moslems in the 8th C., it was Barcino, on the coastal plain between the conquered by the Franks in 801, thus becoming and Besòs rivers, at the meeting an outpost of Charlemagne’s empire south of point of the country’s major thoroughfares. The the Pyrenees and the capital of the earldom original walled city, on a small hill called Mons of Barcelona, which became hereditary in the Taber, had the usual rectangular layout of the times of Guifré el Pilós and independent of the period. The two main streets (decumanus Carolingian kings from 988 under Borrell ll. and cardo maximus) met at the forum, now Barcelona became the most powerful of the the Plaça de Sant Jaume, which even today is Catalan earldoms and the dominant partner in the political hub of the city. On the top of the the confederation of Catalonia- until the hill stood the temple to Augustus, of which end of the 15th C. The growth of maritime trade four impressive columns still stand inside the also turned it into a leading headquarters of the Centre Excursionista de power. Catalunya. The whole medieval city was the scene of this age of splendour. Until the mid-19th C. it was Parts of the Roman walls can still be admired. surrounded by walls. The central part, known They come from the fortifications built in nowadays as the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), the late 3rd and early 4th centuries, after the though in fact Gothic architecture is also to first invasion by Franks and Alemani, when be found elsewhere, contains most of the Barcelona had in effect replaced Tarraco as buildings where, today as in bygone ages, the the capital of Citerior. Its importance major events of the city’s political life take place.

6 Reial Palau

7 Palau de la Generalitat h Casa de la Ciutat i

8 Carrer de la PIetat

Two sides of the Plaça del Rei are occupied by and three aisles and was built in the 13-15th C. the Palau Reial Major, the former residence (except for the lantern and façade which are neo- of the Catalan royal family, which mostly dates Gothic). Inside are numerous features of artistic back to the 14th C. The façade is flanked by value: the crypt of Santa Eulàlia, stalls, a great 16th C. tower known as the Mirador paintings, sculptures, and gold and silver ware. del Rei Martí. At the top of the flight of circular The small Romanesque chapel of Santa Llúcia steps is a doorway with voussoirs leading into opens off the cloister. Nearby are the Museu the austerely beautiful Saló de Tinell, which Marès, and the Gothic Cases dels Canonges, has great stone arches supporting the roof, now the residence of the President of the and into the small chapel of Santa Àgata, also Generalitat (Catalan autonomous government), in Gothic style, which contains a magnificent and the Casa de l’Ardiaca, which was built altarpiece by Jaume Huguet entitled El into the Roman walls and now houses the Arxiu Conestable. On the other side of the courtyard Històric de la Ciutat. The Museum Diocesà is a great Renaissance mansion, the Palau del exhibits some interesting religious pieces in the Lloctinent, the former of the important medieval building of La Pia Almonia. A sharp Archives of the , and the Casa contrast is provided by the modern Col·legi Padellàs, which houses the Museu d’Història d’Arquitectes, on the Avinguda de la Catedral, de la Ciutat. with interesting sgraffiti by Picasso.

The Cathedral comprises several highly Facing each other across the Plaça de Sant interesting constructions from different periods. Jaume, the scene of all the great events of city The spacious church has slender Gothic lines life, are the homes of the Catalan government

9 Santa Maria del Mar

10 Cathedral

11 and of the City CounciI. The Generalitat, which During the Middle Ages, when Mediterranean was re-established in the 20th C., evolved from trade was at its height, merchants and nobles the permanent delegation of members of the lived side by side with sailors in the old district Catalan parliament, or Corts Catalanes, founded of where the 14th C. church of Santa in the 13th C. The Palau de la Generalitat has Maria del Mar, considered the foremost several handsome Gothic features, mostly from achievement of architecture the 15th Century: the entrance and courtyard, on account of the purity of its lines and the the chapel of Sant Jordi (the finest example of harmony of its proportions, can still be admired. Catalan flamboyant Gothic) and the Pati dels Nearby, on the Carrer de Montcada, once Tarongers. The well-balanced façade is 16th the home of powerful Catalan noble families, C. Renaissance. The Casa de la Ciutat or various characteristic Gothic and Renaissance Ajuntament is the headquarters of the present mansions still stand, with their entrance City Council, the successor of one of the most courtyards and stairways going up to the main ancient institutions to represent the power of porticoed first floor. The mansions that attract the citizens, the Consell de Cent (Council of most visitors are those which house the Museu one hundred), which ran the city till the 18th C. Picasso (the city’s most popular museum), The lateral façade and the famous Saló de Cent the Palau dels Marquesos de Lió, the Palau on the main floor are 15th C. Gothic while the dels Cervelló (Galeria Maeght) and the Palau main facade is neoclassical (19th C.). Dalmases.

Museu Picasso

12 Carrer de Montcada

13 Another group of buildings in the old district outstanding example of Catalan Romanesque of , to the right of the Rambla, recall architecture (11-13th C.) was a Benedictine this age of prosperity: the former Hospital abbey from the 10th C. de la Santa Creu, set up in 1410 to bring The Gothic church of Santa Maria del Pi, with together the services of various older hospitals. its characteristic rose window and bell tower In addition to the great Gothic halls, now (visitable), can be found in another small but occupied by the Biblioteca de Catalunya fascinating area of Old Barcelona. Close by, (national library), one can admire the on the quaint Carrer de Petritxol, is one of the Casa de Convalescència, which has a city’s oldest art galleries, the Sala Parés, which courtyard decorated with fine ceramics, and has been renovated, while the Carrer de la the neoclassical Col·legi de Cirurgia, now the Palla, lined with intriguing antique and old book Acadèmia de Medicina. The fair of Sant Ponç, shops, leads to the Cathedral. The Sant Pere which is still held in the neighbouring streets, is district clusters around the church of a former a relic of the age-old sale of medicinal herbs. monastery of Benedictine nuns, Sant Pere de The former Casa de Caritat (hospice), located les Puelles. Here we can admire the Palau de in the same area, has been remodelled to la Música Catalana (1908), one of Barcelona’s house the Centre de Cultura Contemporània most deservedly famous Modernist buildings. de Barcelona (CCCB) and Centre de Recursos This architectural masterpiece by Domènech Culturals. The nearby late Gothic Church of Els i Montaner is lavishly adorned with sculptures Àngels has been restored, and beside it, the and ceramics and has been declared a “World Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona Heritage” site by Unesco. (MACBA) has been built. The magnificent church and cloister of Sant Pau del Camp, an

Old Hospital de la Santa Creu

14 Palau de la Música Catalana

15 The Rambla

The unique and colourful Rambla, popularly and periodicals on either side of the central called “Les Rambles”, is undoubtedly the most walkway which always attract crowds. lively part of Barcelona, a good place to get to The next part is the Rambla dels Estudis. It know the city at close quarters. This varied and was here that the Estudi General, Barcelona’s spectacular promenade, stretching from Plaça first university, stood until 1714. On either side de Catalunya to the harbour, was originally a of the avenue are the 17-18th C. Baroque stream running along the western side of the Betlem church, which was part of a Jesuit 13th C. walls. Population growth caused the convent, and Palau Moja, an important 18th C. walls to become too confining, and so they building. Inside, there is a large reception room were rebuilt along the present inner Rondes, containing fine mural paintings by Francesc Pla, leaving the Rambla inside the city limits. “El Vigatà”. Jacint Verdaguer, the foremost poet Between the 15th and 17th C., several monastic of the 19th C. Catalan Renaixença, lived here and academic buildings were built along it and it when he served as chaplain to the Marquises began to look like a promenade, a vocation that of Comillas. was confirmed in the 18th C. when the rows of trees were planted. Both the people strolling along the boulevard and the surroundings lend colour to the Rambla. The part closest to Plaça de Catalunya is called On reaching Rambla de les Flors, however, Rambla de Canaletes, after the still popular we are met by the even more brilliant but ever fountain of the same name which has stood changing hues of the flower stalls, a scene that there from ancient times. Football supporters will vividly live on in the memory of all those who hold lively discussions around it and tradition have visited the Rambla. Along the Carrer de has it that any visitor who drinks the waters la Portaferrissa, to the left, is a wide range of will one day come back to Barcelona. Another fashionable clothing shops while on the right characteristic feature are the stalls full of books hand side of the Rambla stands the imposing

16 La RamblaLa

17 Palau Güell

18 Palau de la Virreina, an 18th C. Rococo de Ferran which leads to the Plaça de Sant building, which houses the Cultural Services of Jaume, while the other opens onto the Carrer the City Council. Important exhibitions are also d’Escudellers where the atmosphere is that of held there throughout the year. A little further the “Xino” district. Between these two streets down is Barcelona’s most picturesque market, runs the Carrer d’Avinyó, site of the brothel that which offers a wide selection of products: was said to have inspired Picasso’s famous Les the popular Mercat de Sant Josep (or La Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907), painted at the Boqueria). beginning of his Cubist period.

The pavement at the Pla de , at the The first mills producing printed cotton beginning of the Rambla del Centre (or dels (indianes) fabrics were set up in the 18th Caputxins), is decorated with a design by century on the right-hand side of the Rambla, Joan Miró. Rows of terraces belonging to bars, in the Raval district. They signalled the birth hotels and restaurants stand along this part of of Catalonia’s textile industry. Factories and the Rambla, which is overlooked by the façade workers’ housing occupied the remaining free of Barcelona’s house, the Gran Teatre spaces inside the city walls, where market del . For a century and a half, since its gardens, convents and monasteries had once inauguration in 1847, the Liceu has been the stood. In the 19th century the area became a pride of the citizens of Barcelona, and legendary major industrial suburb. Along the lower part figures of Italian and Wagnerian opera have of the Rambla, the proximity of the led to sung there. In 1994 a devastating fire destroyed the opening of shady dance halls and cabarets. the sumptuous auditorium and the stage. Work This area of the Raval was nicknamed the Barri was immediately underway to rebuild the Liceu, Xino (Chinese Quarter). a process in which great care has been given to the restoration of the opera’s original details, The last stretch of the Rambla before the port is while notably improving the infrastructure. The the Rambla de Santa Mònica. It begins at the sidestreets off this part of the Rambla lead to Pla del Teatre, where the old Teatre Principal the “Barri Xino” (Raval), the setting for various and the monument (1907) to the playwright European novels, where Bohemian life-styles Frederic Soler, “Pitarra”, stand. The old convent have been overtaken by a more sinister way of of Santa Mònica is an art centre in which life. In Carrer Nou de la Rambla, to the right, is visiting and seasonal exhibitions are held. the Palau Güell (1888), a remarkable mansion Opposite is the Palau Marc, a handsome late designed by Gaudí. 18th C. neoclassical building which has also been renovated to house the Departament de The Plaça Reial, off the other side of the Cultura de la Generalitat. Nearby is the popular Rambla, was built in the middle of the 19th C. Museu de Cera, full of eerie wax figures, and on terrain belonging to a Capuchin convent. It the old 17th C. Foneria de Canons (canon consists of a series of identical buildings with foundry), which was altered in the 19th C. The porticoes and motifs depicting sailors and monument to Christopher Columbus marks the explorers of the New World. The atmosphere end of the promenade. is always lively. Popular bars are located under the archways and on Sundays there is a market at which stamps and coins are exchanged. From one side one can reach the Carrer

19 Rambla de Mar

20 Mercat de la Boqueria

21 The seafront

The seafront, which stretches from the foot of column 50 m high; the monument was designed Montjuïc to the district of La Barceloneta, is by Gaietà Buïgas (1886) and has become one of followed by the stretches of beaches running the city’s best known sights. Below it, the popular from to the mouth of the Besòs golondrinas ferry carries sightseers across the river. This stretch is one of the reasons for waters of the harbour and the beaches. Barcelona’s existence, the mark of its status as a maritime capital, and proof of its undeniably The whole port area has undergone extensive Mediterranean personality. renovation since the redevelopment of the Moll de la Fusta, the seafront promenade adorned The former shipyards or Drassanes, which at the western end by two sculptures by the bear witness to the might of the Catalan navy architect Robert Krier dedicated to the poet Joan and merchant fleet in the Middle Ages, are the Salvat-Papasseit and to Ròmul Bosch i Alsina, most noteworthy monument in the harbour area. and at the eastern end by Roy Lichtenstein’s Built in the 14th C., they are the largest and best monument Barcelona Head. Right alongside preserved buildings of their kind in the world. the golondrinas is the entrance to the Rambla The vast Gothic halls now house the important de Mar, a mobile wooden footbridge across Museu Marítim, next to which are a stretch of the water to the Moll d’Espanya where a new wall and a gateway which are all that remains Aquarium and a shopping centre have been of the medieval fortifications. Opposite is the built, offering numerous leisure facilities such as monument to Columbus who was received by restaurants, cinemas and boutiques. the Catholic Kings in Barcelona in 1493 on his return from his first voyage to the New World. Above the Passeig de Colom, beyond the The figure of the admiral stands on an iron beautiful and secluded Plaça del Duc de

22 Drassanes

23 Aquarium h Palau de Mar and i

24 Medinaceli, we reach a recently enlarged square facing an 18th C. Baroque church with a curved façade, the basilica of La Mercè, dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, the patroness of the city.

On the other side of , the busy street which cuts through the Old City to the port, is the Plaça d’Antoni López where the Llotja is located. Once the trade exchange of the city’s merchants, it later fulfilled a similar function as the home of Barcelona’s stock exchange. Inside are the wide arches typical of Catalan Gothic architecture Hivernacle (14th C.), a reminder of the golden age of Mediterranean trade. The façade and adjoining buildings, however, were rebuilt in neoclassical style at the end of the 18th C. Facing it are the Porxos d’en Xifré, a group of neoclassical porticoed buildings with medallions and trophies referring to the sea, built in 1836 by Josep Xifré, an indiano (a term used to describe residents in ’s colonies in America who returned to the homeland). Next we come to the Plaça (or Pla) del Palau which in the 17-19th C. was the political hub of the city. The Palau Reial has now disappeared and the only Museu d’Història surviving building from the period is the fine de Catalunya old Rococo customs house, the Duana Nova (1792), which since 1902 has been the seat of the Govern Civil. Further along is the large Estació de França built in 1929 on the site of the original Barcelona to Mataró railway station (1848).

La Barceloneta is an unusual seafaring district located atop a triangular tongue of land formed by sand which accumulated on the eastern side when the was built in the 17th C. For this reason it has been said that La Barceloneta, like Venus, rose from the waters. It is an interesting

25 specimen of Baroque city planning, designed fine Baroque building, is now the home of the by the military engineer Juan Martin Cermeño in Parlament de Catalunya. In the park, designed the mid 18th C., with uniform, regularly shaped, by Josep Fontserè, are various buildings erected elongated blocks, and contains a few noteworthy for the Universal Exhibition of 1888, an event of examples of architecture from the same period, great significance for the city, and motivated such as the beautiful church of Sant Miquel del new constructions, such as the Arc de Triomf, Port with its Italian-style Baroque façade. The which is located just above the park. Amid home over the years of fishermen and sailors, the large flowerbeds and tree-lined paths, the La Barceloneta was the city’s only outlet to the monumental waterfall with sculptures by Nobas sea until the recent redevelopment of the entire and Vallmitjana, and the lake, reigns a pleasant seafront. The former Magatzem General del atmosphere of peace and seclusion. Port (port warehouse), renamed Palau del Mar, houses a brand new theme museum, the Museu Some of the architecture, aside from its d’Història de Catalunya, which illustrates the intrinsic interest, foreshadows the advent of from prehistoric times to the Modernism: the dels Tres Dragons, by present day. Several restaurants specialising Domènech i Montaner (1888), a brick building in seafood can be found in the building’s which today houses on of the sections of the surrounding area, which are traditional as well Natural Science Museum; the iron and glass as in other districts. greenhouse or Hivernacle, by Josep Amargós, and the brick and wood Umbracle, by Fontserè. Barcelona is one of the most important and Barcelona’s large landscaped Zoo is also busiest on the Mediterranean and wharfs located at La Ciutadella. Foremost among the and shipyards occupy much of the seafront. park’s sculptures are the enchanting Dama There is a fishing port, complete with a small del Paraigua (lady with umbrella) by Roig Solé, fleet and a wholesale fish market, located one of the city’s best known sights, and the alongside the Marina on the Moll del Rellotge, magnificent Desconsol by Llimona. in the vicinity of La Barceloneta. And here too is the marina known as the Port Vell, one of Other points of interest in the surrounding area, the city’s two marinas, the other being the Port also urbanised by Fontserè, include the Edifici Olímpic. Cable cars affording a view over the or Dipòsit de les Aigües (Water Tower), which entire port depart from the nearby metal tower houses the Pompeu Fabra University library. of Sant Sebastià and carry passengers, via the El Born Centre Cultural, in an antique market twin tower of Sant Jaume, up to Miramar, on the building which boasts a fine metal structure, slopes of Montjuïc, 80 m above sea level. presents some interesting archaeological remains from the medieval and modern city, , situated between the demolished at the end of the Spanish War of districts of La Ribera and La Barceloneta, Succession (1714) to make way for the military takes its name from the fortified citadel built by citadel. Philip V to subjugate the city which had been hostile to his cause in the War of Succession (1714). Most of the buildings were demolished in 1869 and only the governor’s palace, the chapel and the arsenal remain. The last, a

26 Parc de la Ciutadella h Castell dels Tres Dragons i

27 The

During the 19th C., Barcelona underwent a cultural movement known as the Renaixença period of economic and demographic growth which, in the field of art, was to lead at the end and the old medieval walls which prevented of the century to Modernism. Together the the expansion of the city had to be demolished buildings of the Eixample district, which are (1854). A large area close to the walls, where presently being renovated, constitute one of building had hitherto been prohibited, thus the most interesting examples in Europe of the became available for development. From 1860 architecture of this period. By strolling through onwards the plan drawn up by the engineer the streets of the Eixample one can discover, Ildefons Cerdà –Pla de Reforma i Eixample not only on the façades of the impressive larger (plan for renovation and enlargement)– was buildings, but in the doorways and entrance implemented. It was a highly advanced and halls of apartment blocks, grocers’ shops, rational grid design consisting of streets parallel bakeries, and pharmacies, countless examples to the seafront and others perpendicular to it, of lavish Modernist ornamentation using newly with the corners of the blocks cut off. Cerdà’s introduced and finely worked materials such as specifications for green spaces were however glass, wood, wrought iron and ceramics. not respected. Plaça de Catalunya, the link between Old The Eixample (meaning enlargement), especially Barcelona and the Eixample, was developed in the central part, was built at a time when 1927 by F. de P. Nebot with interesting sculptures Barcelona society was flourishing. Economic by Josep Llimona, Eusebi Arnau, Pau Gargallo and industrial growth had given rise to an and Josep Clarà a copy of whose La Deessa established bourgeoisie with a desire to stands in the square. There is also a monument build a great city. This same bourgeoisie to President Macià, the first President of the also supported the goals of the political and Republican Generalitat by Josep M. Subirachs.

28 The Eixample The

29 The main street of the Eixample, the Passeig and the Cases Rocamora by the Bassegoda de Gràcia, leads off the Plaça de Catalunya. Brothers. Its wide pavements are lined with large, well- Another popular street of the Eixample is established shops. The street lamps by Pere . One can have a drink Falqués are another characteristic feature. in the shade of the lime trees on the terraces Numerous buildings of eclectic, medievalist or along the pleasant promenade. On either side fully Modernist design are located on Passeig are fine shops, shopping centres, art galleries de Gràcia. The most important is Casa Milà, (especially in the vicinity of Carrer del Consell known as “La Pedrera” (the quarry), one of de Cent), as well as bookshops and cinemas. Gaudí’s –and Barcelona’s– best known works, There are various Modernist buildings, notably which stands at the corner of Carrer Provença. Casa Serra, by Puig i Cadafalch, which is now It has been restored and fit as an artistic space. the Diputació de Barcelona. Not far off, on On the famous “Mançana de la Discòrdia” Carrer d’Aragó, is a fine building by Domènech between Carrer d’Aragó and Consell de Cent i Montaner (1880), formerly the offices of the we findCasa Batlló, by Gaudí, , publishers Montaner y Simón, and now by Puig i Cadafalch, and Casa Lleó Morera, by the home of the Fundació Tàpies which is Domènech i Montaner. Around the intersection devoted to contemporary art. Beyond it stands with Carrer Casp there are the neo-Gothic the neomedieval building by Elies Rogent buildings by named Cases Pons, belonging to the .

Fundació Tàpies

The Eixample

30 “La Pedrera”

31 The long, wide cuts buildings situated near the northernmost stretch obliquely across the city from to of Diagonal at either end of Avinguda de Gaudí. the sea. At the western, basically residential The first is the best known of Gaudí’s creations end are the modern University campus and throughout the world, the expiatory church of the Palau de Pedralbes. Numerous business Sagrada Família, conceived as a “cathedral and commercial establishments are located of the twentieth century”, in which his genius along the central portion, where there are takes on a complex religious symbology. From also important Modernist buildings, notably 1883 until his death in 1926, Gaudí worked the famous and the exclusively on the Sagrada Família. It was Palau del Baró de Quadras, both by Puig left unfinished but work has continued to the i Cadafalch, as well as quality works of later present day in the midst of fierce controversy. architecture such as the Rationalist house by The second of these buildings is the Hospital de Ricardo de Churruca (1937) at the intersection Sant Pau (1902-12) by Domènech i Montaner, with Carrer d’Enric Granados or the Torres which consists of several brick pavilions, Trade by Josep A. Coderch (1968) at Gran Via decorated with polychrome ceramics, standing de Carles lll which are symbols of Barcelona’s amid spacious gardens. Both buildings have architectural renewal. been declared a “World Heritage” site by Unesco. This short summary would not be complete without references to two singular Modernist

“La Pedrera”

32 “La Pedrera”

33 Casa Batlló

34 Sagrada Família

35 The surrounding districts

The personality of present-day Barcelona would Güell, former stables designed by Gaudí with an be incomplete without the surrounding districts extraordinary wrought iron dragon at the gate. to which it owes its ever-changing appearance. To the south, in the once independent borough The former towns of the Barcelona plain of de Sarrià which was split into two have been the most successful in maintaining parts when Diagonal was built, are the Palau their own particular flavour. They retained their de Pedralbes, the Unlversity campus and the independence for centuries until the growth of magnificent stadium with room for Barcelona led to the adoption of the Cerdà plan 98,000 spectators which belongs to Football for the development of the intervening land, and Club Barcelona, Catalonia’s best loved team. the capital spilled over onto their territory. Sant Gervasi de Cassoles, at the foot of Sarrià lies at the foot of the Collserola hills at the , is another residential district. It has north end of the plain. Its old quarters, which a distinguished history, being the site of the have preserved their traditional personality, villa , built by King Martin I the cluster around the church of Sant Vicenç, near Humane at the beginning of the 15th C. and the former home of the great poet J. V. Foix. completely converted in modern times by A spacious residential zone surrounds the Gaudí. Spacious second homes and Modernist- area, where rambling old houses, some fine style houses remain, as well as many convents examples of Modernism, and large convents and religious schools. The Convent of Les and religious schools stand side by side with Teresianes, by Gaudí, is particularly remarkable modern apartment blocks. The Monastery for its architecture. The area includes various of Pedralbes, founded by Queen Elisenda de interesting green spaces, especially the Montcada, the last wife of James ll, is one of the hilltop parks of Monterols and El Putget which best examples of Catalan Gothic architecture. command good views over Barcelona. Within its walls the nuns of the order of Saint Clare have maintained religious life since the Horta also lies at the foot of the Collserola hills, 14th C. The chapel of Sant Miquel, decorated in a valley where many springs rise and where by Ferrer Bassa, opens onto the cloister. On the an important Hieronymite monastery, known as Avinguda de Pedralbes stand the Pavellons the Vall d’Hebron, was founded at the end of the

36 of Monastery

37 Laberint d’Horta park

Mistos, sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen

38 belonged to a Carmelite convent, the iron structure of La Llibertat market and several Modernist houses, including , one of Gaudí’s first works (1889), and others overlooking the bustling main street, Carrer Gran de Gràcia. In Gràcia we can also admire one of Gaudí’s best known works, Güell Park, included by Unesco as a “World Heritage” site. Originally planned as a garden city, it was never completed. However, the buildings by the entrance still stand, together with a staircase, guarded by a dragon, which leads up to a great hall (intended as a market) with 86 Doric columns supporting a mosaic ceiling. Sculpture-poem by Joan Brossa Above it is a great round esplanade offering a 14th C. The monastery has disappeared but not magnificent panorama over the city and edged so the mansion built in 1799 by the Marquises by the famous undulating mosaic bench. Also of Alfarràs. This beautiful neoclassical building, of interest are the curious appearance of the with gardens containing statues of mythological paths, resting on strong retaining walls and figures, a pavilion, a pond and a maze of cypress stout arcades, and the Casa Museu Gaudí. hedges, is now a municipal park, the Laberint d’Horta. Close by is the Velodrome and many , to the west of the city and of Montjuïc, hospitals and other health care establishments remains today what it was in the past –an are also located in the area. industrial area with venerable old factories like L’Espanya Industrial or El Vapor Vell. Lying below Horta, mostly on the Barcelona The recently developed area round the large plain, is Gràcia, possibly the former town new Sants central railway station includes which has best succeeded in maintaining its two interesting examples of new trends in original personality. Throughout the 19th C. urban architecture: Plaça dels Països it was famous for its republican, liberal ideas and Parc de l’Espanya Industrial, which are and for its role in the working class movement. described below. The famous “Campana de Gràcia” (Gràcia bell) which, during a revolt against troop levies in To the east of Barcelona, before reaching the 1870, tolled unceasingly from the tower, has Besòs river, are the two former independent become a legend. Gràcia has a multiplicity boroughs of de Palomar and of associations and numerous festivals and Sant Martí de Provençals, the latter with a customs, like the festival of Sant Medir, which long seafront. In the course of the 19th C., both includes a horseback procession to Sant Cugat were industrialised and they became, especially del Vallès, or the lively celebrations that mark in the 20th C., the home of large numbers of the Assumption (Aug. 15th), when the streets workers from other parts of Spain. The latter are decked with garlands and there is dancing district has been most widely influenced by the under marquees. Noteworthy buildings include Games of 1992, and the Olympic Village was the 17th C. church of Sant Josep, which once built in the El Poblenou district.

39 Güell Park

40 Güell Park

41 From the hills

A view of Barcelona from the sea reveals a city’s profile. In front, on the great esplanade, natural wall of tree-clad hills which surrounds is an amusement park featuring a 50 m. and protects the city, as well as providing high watchtower, a popular aeroplane and a incomparable panoramas. These are the Museum of Automatons, as well as restaurants Collserola hills, the veritable “lungs” of the city, and bars and splendid views over the city, all of now being converted into a large park. The which have made Tibidabo a favourite spot for headland of Montjuïc, which rises above the the citizens of Barcelona. sea to the west of Old Barcelona, is another important green space and leisure area. Further west along the Collserola range, the residential district of stands The highest point in the Collserola hills, which amid pine woods. Formerly part of Sarrià, separate Barcelona from the Vallès region, is Vallvidrera can also be reached by a funicular the Tibidabo area, which was built up at the railway and boasts several fine Modernist turn of the 19th. century as a result of private residences and Vil·la Joana, which today and municipal initiative. The (blue houses the Museu Jacint Verdaguer. Very close tram), one of Barcelona’s most popular and to the Tibidabo, perched on the hillside, is the distinctive features, links up with the funicular prestigious Observatori Fabra (1907) where railway which climbs up the hillside. On top meteorological, seismic and astronomical stands the great expiatory church, the Sagrat research is carried out. The great 260 m. high Cor, a neo-Gothic work by Enric Sagnier, whose (telecommunications unmistakable silhouette is an integral part of the tower) stands on the crest of the hills. The

42 Torre de Collserola de Torre

43 Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC)

44 design, by the British architect Norman Foster, Large-scale development took place on is ultra modern and the technical facilities are Montjuïc on the occasion of the 1929 located underground. The Carretera de Les International Exhibition. The slopes were Aigües, located half-way up the hillside, winds landscaped according to a project by Forestier from one edge of the range to the other. and Rubió i Tudurí. Approaching Montjuïc from Plaça d’Espanya, where the great monumental Montjuïc is a rocky headland rising between fountain stands that was designed by Jujol as sandy areas at the mouths of the Llobregat and well as sculptures by Blay, we pass between Besòs rivers. Owing to its strategic position two large towers inspired by the Campanile overlooking the city, it fulfilled a military function in Venice and a semicircle of columns into the from the high Middle Ages onwards. The original exhibition hall enclosure. At the far end stand Castell del Port was replaced in the mid-18th C. the giant luminous fountains designed by by the great hulk of the Castell de Montjuïc, Carles Buïgas. Behind these are the stairs that built after the style of Vauban in the shape of a lead up to the , a neoclassical star with wide moats, bulwarks and pillboxes. building of giant proportions with a central For many years it served as a military prison, dome. The Palau Nacional is the home of the becoming a symbol of political repression until magnificent collections of theMuseu Nacional donated to the city in 1960. d’Art de Catalunya comprising Romanesque

Fundació Miró

45 art as well Gothic works that are singular Paral·lel one can take a funicular up to the cable in the world. Nearby, the old Casaramona cars which carry visitors to the castle and the textile factory, a Modernist building by Puig i Jardí Botànic that is dedicated to collections Cadafalch, is now an important cultural centre, of native Mediterranean flora. CaixaForum, housing a magnificent collection of contemporary art and temporary exhibitions. The former industrial district of El Poble Sec lies at the foot of Montjuïc, between Plaça Parc de Montjuïc offers a variety of other d’Espanya and the sea. The familiar silhouette attractions. The consists of of an antique power station chimneys are a large collection of reproductions of popular found here, while along the edge runs the architecture from throughout Spain. Concerts broad Avinguda del Paral·lel. At the turn of and festivals are held there and there are the 19th. century numerous theatres and many interesting craft workshops including the cabarets offering light entertainment opened use of wood, engravings, glass and foundry here, earning the district the nickname of the work. Nearby, on a vantage point overlooking Montmartre of Barcelona. Some theatres the city, stands an equestrian statue of Saint specialising in reviews and musicals still survive. George by Josep Llimona which is a veritable masterpiece. The area of Montjuïc situated around the and is known as the Olympic Ring. Barcelona’s most illustrious guests stay at the Palau Albèniz. The former Mercat de les Flors (flower market), the adjoining buildings and the Palau de l’Agricultura will form the site of the new Ciutat del Teatre comprising several theatres, the premises of the Institut del Teatre and the new home of the . Also on Montjuïc is, the Museu d’Arqueologia and the Museu Etnològic.

The is a beautiful open-air theatre, surrounded by gardens, which was built into an old stone quarry. In summer it is the main site of Barcelona’s foremost arts festival. The Palau Municipal d’Esports (now converted into a theatre) is a work of , as is the Fundació Joan Miró, an active centre for the study of contemporary art with rich collections donated by the painter himself. The luminous and beautiful building by J.L. Sert (1974) was enlarged in 1988. From the Avinguda

46 Correfoc

47 The new Barcelona

Various factors account for present day The daring and controversial design of Plaça Barcelona’s modern image and for the dels Països Catalans, opposite the Barcelona extensive remodelling that has taken place. One Central-Sants railway station, by Helio Piñón was the 1992 Olympic Games, which gave rise and Albert Viaplana, is ultra modern. In the to new spaces and constructions, and another immediate vicinity, towards Plaça d’Espanya, the desire to renovate the old city centre and is the spacious Parc de Joan Miró which redesign the outlying areas and provide them occupies an area equal to four blocks in the with new monuments. The following is a brief Eixample district. Popularly known as Parc de summary of achievements in the field of city l’Escorxador (the municipal slaughterhouse, planning. or escorxador, formerly stood here), its main features are an esplanade and pond from which Parc de l’Espanya Industrial in the Sants a spectacular sculpture by Miró, district was designed by the Basque architect (woman and bird), stands tall. A large grove of Luis Peña Ganchegui, who conceived it as a palm trees, play grounds, pergolas, pines and modern version of Roman baths with a boating eucalyptus trees complete the picture. lake in the centre surrounded by tiers of steps and overlooked by ten towers which serve On one of the hills in the northern part of Horta both as vantage points and overhead lights. It is Parc de la Creueta del Coll, designed by is decorated by sculptures in different styles, the architects Martorell and Mackay. It contains such as the great dragon by Andrés Nagel, a lake and a hanging sculpture by Chillida which has children’s slides inside, or the works entitled Elogi de l’Aigua which is reflected in the by Anthony Caro, Pablo Palazuelo and others. waters, and others by Kelly and Lichtenstein.

48 Torre Agbar Torre

49 Parc del Clot, by Daniel Freixes and Vicente Miranda, in the densely populated district of the same name, is a prodigy of design which takes advantage of a disused railway and an old chimney, and is decorated with a fine piece by the American sculptor, Bryan Hunt, Rites of Spring. In the nearby district of , Parc de la Pegaso stands on the former site of the Pegaso factory. The plans by Joan Roig and Enric Batlle provide for a paved square with a sculpture by Ellsworth Kelly, groves of trees and a small lake.

Parc de la Creueta In the midst of Plaça de la Palmera, in La del Coll Verneda district of Sant Martí de Provençals, stands a large conceptualist wall sculpture by Richard Serra consisting of two concentric concrete blocks. Plaça de Sóller, in the Porta district, is adorned with a pond and a sculpture by Xavier Corberó.

In the district of , a Rambla-type promenade known as Via Júlia has been built from Plaça Llucmajor to Via Favència. On it stand two sculptures, one by Sergi Aguilar (a slender iron structure) and the other by Antoni Rosselló, a great lighthouse-column. More sculptures have been placed on Plaça de Llucmajor: a monument to Francesc Pi i Margall Parc de by Josep Viladomat, on a pedestal by Piñón Joan Miró and Viaplana, and another work by Susana Solano.

An outstanding feature of the transportation network is the great sculpture-bridge by the architect and engineer Santiago Calatrava which joins the districts of Sant Andreu and El Poblenou between Carrer Bac de Roda and Carrer Felip II, providing access in a north- south direction to the east end of the city. Barcelona Airport, at , has been remodelled according to plans by Ricard Bofill.

One of the most ambitious projects for the Via Júlia restoration of buildings of historical and

50 artistic significance is at the Palau Nacional de Caritat which houses the Centre de Cultura Montjuïc, the home of the Museu Nacional Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB). d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC). Directed by the Nearby stands the Museu d’Art Contemporani Italian architect Gae Aulenti, it is one of the de Barcelona (MACBA), a remarkable building largest museum complexes in Europe. The by the American architect Richard Meier. Pavelló Barcelona by Mies van der Rohe, The University of Barcelona’s new Faculty of which housed the German exhibit to the 1929 Geography and History and Philosophy Faculty International Exhibition, was reconstructed in are located in the same area. 1986 on the same side of Montjuïc. Considered a paradigm of modern rationalist architecture, In the vicinity of the Plaça de les Glòries it contains the Barcelona Chair designed by Catalanes, which according to the Cerdà plan the architect himself and a sculpture by Georg was to have been the centre of Barcelona, Kolbe. The exhibition complex at Montjuïc, important cultural facilities are in progress. where the annual Fira de Mostres (trade fair) The Teatre Nacional was designed by Ricard and other exhibitions are held, has also been Bofill, comprising three theatres in a building enlarged, while the Passeig de Maria Cristina, incorporating cutting-edge technology and which runs from Plaça d’Espanya to the Palau in the shape of a classical temple with metal Nacional, has been restored and embellished. structures and large expanses of glass. L’A u d i t o r i was designed by Rafael Moneo, As part of the renovation of the El Raval which consists of three concert halls in a district, the Piñón-Viaplana team of architects building combining new forms of architectural has remodelled the former Casa de la expression with classical strength and

Parc de l’Espanya Industrial

51 sensitivity to the urban environment. This involved the renovation of big old houses or building also houses the Escola Superior de mansions with some architectural interest. Música and the new Museu de la Música, They can be classified in terms of their location, thereby completing the great cultural centre in design and clientele. Some correspond to a the Plaça de les Arts. On the site of the nearby marginal, or alternative aesthetic, while others former Estació del Nord, a spacious park offer a vague idea of ‘modernity’. has been developed with two large ceramic sculptures by the American Beverly Pepper, The venues for the various Olympic events and Cel caigut and Espiral arbrada, dedicated to the necessary services and infrastructures were Gaudí and Miró. built in four areas equidistant from one another (the four ‘cantons’ of the city) and linked by the A new sort of night life has grown up which outer Rondes, a 40 km long beltway. has led to a vast amount of creative energy being devoted to the conception, design and Some of these areas were extensively construction of new places of amusement. remodelled. One was the seafront of El The interesting feature of such projects is that Poblenou district, east of La Barceloneta, they invariably involve the interplay of interior, where the Olympic Village was built. The graphic and industrial design. redevelopment of this area, was planned by the architects Bohigas, Martorell, Mackay and Some are former factories, garages, cooperatives, Puigdomènech. The Marina is by the engineer warehouses or shops, whereas others have J.R. de Clascà. The two spectacular high-

Plaça dels Països Catalans

52 Sculpture-bridge by Santiago Calatrava

rise blocks overlooking it, one housing offices it offers a global approach to sport in general and the other a large hotel, have transformed and Olympic sports in particular, which is the city’s seafront skyline. The port, with historic, recreational, ethical and educational. its abundant supply of bars and seafood The metal-roofed Palau Sant Jordi sports arena restaurants, has become a favourite leisure is a beautiful construction by the Japanese spot for the city’s inhabitants, and El Poblenou architect Arata Isozaki. In front lies a refined beaches have also received a facelift. forest made of stone and metal, the work of sculptor Aiko Miyawaki. Other works of interest Another area which benefited from the are the INEFC pavilion, or Sports University, Games was Montjuïc hill. The accesses were designed by the Ricard Bofill workshop, and improved, a park with an area for concerts – the lofty telephone communications tower by Parc del Migdia– was created, and easier Santiago Calatrava. access was provided from the neighbouring El Poble Sec and districts. But the Further sports facilities are located in the most outstanding feature is undoubtedly the Vall d’Hebron area. One is the handsome Anella Olímpica (‘Olympic ring’). The Olympic Velodrome, designed by Esteve Bonell and Stadium retained its original 1929 façade but Francesc Rius, set in attractive gardens which the interior was entirely remodelled by a team contain an interesting sculpture-poem by the made up of Gregotti, Correa, Milà, Margarit poet Joan Brossa and afford access to Parc del and Buixadé. The new Olympic and Sports Laberint. The Pavilion of the Spanish Republic, Museum is innovative and pioneering in that designed for the International Exhibition of 53 1937, has also been rebuilt in the area. It is by technology district, for instance, or the Josep L. Sert and formerly housed Picasso’s extension –already provided for in Cerdà’s Gernika, as well as works by Miró, J. González, plan– of Avinguda Diagonal from Plaça de les Calder, and others. In front of it is the sculpture Glòries Catalanes down to the sea to create Mistos by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van the Diagonal Mar complex. Several distinctive Bruggen. new constructions have endowed this area with a brand new skyline, notably the Torre Diagonal-Pedralbes, is the fourth Olympic Agbar and Central Poblenou Park, both by area. It is located in a zone which already the architect Jean Nouvel, the market Fira de possessed various sports facilities such as the Bellcaire- , and the Barcelona Football Club stadium, Camp Nou, Encants Vells Museum of and others belonging to the University Campus. Design. These were completed by new constructions.

The city has evolved dramatically in the past twenty years to become one of Europe’s top-ranking modern capitals. The sweeping changes made for the 1992 Olympics and the 2004 Universal Forum of Cultures have been followed by new projects: the transformation of part of the area of Poblenou into the 22@

Auditori

54 Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB)

Olympic Port Barcelona Football Club stadium

55 Olympic Ring h Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) i

56 Palau Sant Jordi Sant Palau

57 General information

Catalan Ministry of Enterprise and Labour Tourist information Directorate General for Tourism Pg. de Gràcia, 105 08008 Barcelona 08008 Barcelona Tel. (+34) 934 849 500 Pg. de Gràcia, 107 empresaiocupacio.gencat.cat Tel. (+34) 932 388 091/92/93 www.gencat.cat/probert Catalan Tourist Board 08002 Barcelona Pg. de Gràcia, 105 Pl. de Catalunya, 17 - soterrani 08008 Barcelona Tel. (+34) 932 853 834 Tel. (+34) 934 849 900 www.catalunya.com 08014 Barcelona Estació de Sants-Pl. dels Països Catalans, s/n Tel. (+34) 902 240 202 Turisme de Barcelona Ptge. de la Concepció, 7-9 08820 El Prat de Llobregat 08008 Barcelona Aeroport de Barcelona Tel. (+34) 933 689 700 Terminal 1. Tel. (+34) 934 784 704 www.barcelonaturisme.cat Terminal 2. Tel. (+34) 935 575 219

58 59 Ministry of Enterprise and Labour Directorate General for Tourism

Text: Borja Calzado

Translation: Jacqueline Hall (Discobole)

Photographs: J. Pareto, T. Vidal, Puente, F. Gomà, Aquàrium, R. Manent, Museu d’Història de Catalunya, Jordi Calveras and Joan Sacristà / MNAC Servei Fotogràfic, Imagen Más, Felipe J. Alcoceba, Espai d’Imatge / Turisme de Barcelona, F. Ontañon/Impremta Municipal (Ajuntament de Barcelona), J. Trullàs and Gemma Miralda.

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