#012 NOV 2015

OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN ENGLISH EDITION! ENGLISH

4,95€

What makes CRAFT BEERS, Barcelona so STREET CULTURE, special? Everyone DANCE FESTIVAL, has their opinion, LOCAL DISHES... including us... PLUS! 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 3 Time Out Barcelona English Edition The Best November 2015 of BCN

Features 16. Cool Barcelona What makes this city so special? What gives it its unique essence? Clemmy Manzo gives her answer to the million-euro question. 22. A special brew Barcelona’s craft beer industry is booming, with brewpubs and alehouses spreading around the city. Aitor Labrador does a sterling job of checking out the top places for a pint. 5RCEGƁNNGTU Late Catalan ƁNOOCMGT$KICU Eugènia Sendra raises her eyes to the .WPCYCURTQNKƁEKP heavens to take us on a tour of Barcelona’s other areas of the spectacular domes. visual arts, as shown in a new 28. Celebrating creativity exhibition p. 42 This month sees the fourth outing for Sâlmon, a dance festival that embraces BIGAS LUNA / ‘MÉS DE I MÉS LUNA’ innovation, collaboration and participation. Alx Phillips tells us who’s worth seeing. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 61. LGBT 62. Clubs

64. Getaways CHRISTIAN BERTRAND GIMÉNEZ IVAN $CTEGNQPCoUUVTGGVUCTGHWNNQHEWNVWTGYKVJITCHƁVK Discover a new Mexican restaurant where no 66. BCN Top Ten skateboards and hip hop all over town p. 34 one will tell you off for reading at the table p. 54

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Printer.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Legal deposit B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manuel Pérez | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Aitor Labrador, IRISNEGRO Clemmy Manzo, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, Alx Phillips, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 5 The BCN_NOV 2015 hot list SUNDAY MONDAY 01 02 Tots Sants Jazz and Blues Cycle Traditions Music Day of remembrance and Milano Cocktail Bar almond cakes. See p. 36 hosts concerts. See p. 44

THURSDAY FRIDAY SUNDAY 05 06 08 Novembre The violin of Isabelle Faust Benvenuto Cellini Dance Music Opera Performance at La 5JQUVCMQXKEJoUƁTUV Colourful take on Hector Pedrera. See p. 53 symphony. See p. 45 Berlioz work. See p. 46

Un cau de mil secrets. A new music season starts at La (GOKPKUVƁNOU(TGGUETGGPKPIUCVVJG%%%$QHƁNOU DON’T MISS! Pedrera with this specially written piece. SAT 7 (see p.46) from around the world. FRI 6-SUN 8 (see p. 36)

MONDAY SUNDAY FRIDAY SUNDAY 09 15 20 22 Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis Campionat de Catalunya... Gospel Concert 92nd Jean Bouin Run Music Motor racing Charity event Sport Jean-Christophe Spinosi Barcelona track hosts Fundraising for local Spain’s oldest road race conducts. See p. 46 two contests. See p. 38 kids’ charity. See p. 48 returns. See p. 40

WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SUNDAY 25 26 27 29 Neneh Cherry Mamma Mía! Black Friday Barça vs Real Sociedad Music Musical theatre Shopping Football The singer is on a Spanish version of hit Special offers at many The San Sebastián side European tour. See p. 48 Abba show. See p. 52 city shops. See p. 32 visit Camp Nou. See p. 40

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com I love BCN Fabra Observatory www.fabra.cat

Not only does this place offer What am I splendid city panoramas, its telescope lets us probe the skies. doing here?

Jan Fleischer The ins and outs of cool

Who’s to say what makes Barcelona EQQN!1-UQYGoXGƁNNGFCHGY pages doing just that, but what’s great about this city is that it’s an anything-goes type of town. There may be an entire underworld of hipsters or yuccies or whatever the latest fall-off-the-edgy trend is now, but what do your average metro- taking beer-drinking residents consider to be the true spirit of the city? And what do visitors cite as their main reason for checking it out? Maybe it’s the sunshine and the sea, making it so you can act out the beach volleyball scene from Top Gun even in November. Or the great coffee, wine and cusine tempting us into BCN and out to its DCTUCPFGCVGTKGU9JGP+ƁTUVIQV to town, a night out in Razzmatazz was the best, and Razz still tops the list of spots to be in ‘Barna’ (as the cool kids call the city). And now the vermouth hour has come back into fashion, so who am I to turn my nose up? Count me in – olives, little XKPCIGT[ƁUJCPFCNN#DKIRCTVQH what makes Barna so special is the people. There’s a general live-and- let-live attitude, and everyone’s fairly easy-going when it comes to time and punctuality. Still, some stuff that might be cool where WTF IS... [QWoTGHTQOFQGUPoVPGEGUUCTKN[Ƃ[ Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer here (and vice versa). Be sure to check out our list of dos and don’ts on page 17 to keep from embarrassing yourself beyond repair. Be cool by just being you. Cigaló Unless you want to wear socks with sandals. Or sandals full stop. It is November, after all. Want a little kick in your java? Ordering a cigaló (see-gah-LO) will get you a small coffee with a splash of alcohol, such as Baileys or rum. Though cigaló Jan has never seen Top Gun. is the Catalan word, most locals use the Spanish carajillo (car-ah-HEE-oh). Except the volleyball scene.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 7 People of Barcelona Ivan Kovacevic BCN: Musician 38 years old TOP SECRET

By Begoña García You came to Barcelona to study music. Yes, at the Aula de Música _Above the door of Moderna i Jazz, which has an agreement with the prestigious the Museu Frederic Berklee College in Boston. I soon Marès (Pl. Sant started playing in clubs and on the street. The city seemed very open Iu, 5) is a shield to me, and it was easier to with a sword and perform than it is now. cross – symbol You come from Serbia, a country of the Spanish that is, and especially was, quite isolated. Inquisition. A musician needs to be able to _Gustave travel, and it was impossible to do that there other than to go to a (NCWDGTVoUƁTUV neighbouring country such as story, ‘Bibliomanie’ Montenegro or Hungary. (published when he Why do you think vintage music, was 14), was based such as rock ’n’ roll, was so appealing to you? on the supposed I was attracted by the energy and MARIA DIAS trial of a Barcelona freedom of American music. And the sexuality, which is very Have you been comfortable as a bookshop owner present in black music – it’s 70 Serbian in recent years? accused of murder. percent of it. European music is Well, I’ve never felt a big need to missing that element. When I was identify myself with a country – we _C/Ataülf in Ciutat seven, I was already a fan of Elvis all have roots, but what matters is Presley, and then, later, of Stray the people. I like Barcelona Vella is named after Cats. It’s been strange to talk to because there are lots of the eponymous friends here and discover that foreigners, making it more open. they, in parallel, went through the AN OBJECT: LAMP POST Visigoth king who same process. IN C/ DEL SOL Have you been back to perform in made Barcelona Kovacevic chose this spot to have your country? You play rock ’n’ roll, jazz and his photo taken for the sleeve of Yes, absolutely, and in all of the the centre of his blues with Nu Niles, Mambo the album made with his quintet. former Yugoslavia. We’ll be going empire. He was Jambo and the Barcelona Big there to make a documentary with Blues Band, and now gypsy and the Orchestra. killed in the city in Jewish music from eastern August AD 415. Europe with the Barcelona Gipsy Balkan music here is particularly Klezmer Orchestra. Do you link KFGPVKƁGFYKVJ)QTCP$TGIQXKE _On the site of what you do with this group with an old Yugoslav rock star. Are Can Cortada your ancestral memory? you surprised by his success? ;GU+ƁPFO[UGNHRNC[KPIRQRWNCT Yes, because he’s banalised the (Av. de l’Estatut songs that I heard when I was PLACE OF ORIGIN: music a lot. I saw him at Cruïlla de Catalunya), a small, that people used to sing at BELGRADE BCN and I found him very shoddy. football games. It feels easy for Specifically from Banjica, a Balkan orchestras are canons Roman villa and me to enter that world – it’s complicated area that in the ’90s and he removes nuances from medieval tower normal to me. What’s more, it’s a was a den of drugs and weapons. them. Emir Kusturica is another very open kind of music, with few OCVVGTJGTGƂGEVUVJGGUUGPEG have also stood. rules and where there’s still a lot DGVVGTsKPDQVJƁNOCPFOWUKE left to develop. –Jordi Bianciotto

8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 9 Fossar de les Moreres is a key site in the city’s history. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA

In the Port Olímpic area enjoy food, drinks and views.

Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agusti Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Gothic cathedral just you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big off Via Laietana. It’s at least 1,500 shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring breakfast among the tree-lined years old and has recently home. As you’re strolling around, Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Eixample Esquerre. undergone extensive renovation keep your eye out for Ivori (Mirallers, Chino’, the Raval has inspired Velodromo (Muntaner, 213) works. Next, head to Born Centre 7), an exquisite shop with local many a writer. Nowadays, opens at 6am, for those of you Cultural (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron designs; On Land (Princesa, 25), it’s a place where local really keen to get going, while and glass structure built in 1876 where both men and women can businesses thrive in the Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189) as a market. From there you can ƁPFPGYVJTGCFUCPF5VWFKQUVQTG form of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and stop in at the spectacular Santa (Comerç, 17), with everything from restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet Maria del Mar church (Pl. de Santa clothes and eyewear to original maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once Maria, 1). Just next to it is Fossar cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, de les Moreres, a square with great Street culture is booming jump on public transport and UKIPKƁECPEGVQVJGRGQRNGQH here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural Barcelona; it was built over a 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book on cemetery where those who died It’s time to eat www.parkguell.cat/en to ensure ƁIJVKPIVQFGHGPFVJGEKV[KPVJG For dinner, try the Asian tapas at you get in to the ‘monumental’ 1714 Siege of Barcelona were Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll but can graze from 17 different food zone and save a euro. Bonus! DWTKGF#PGVGTPCNƂCOGJQPQWTU melt in your mouth. Always a sure ‘stalls’. To top off the night, head in the memory of the fallen. thing is a meal in one of the city’s the direction of the sea and have a fresh markets, such as Santa drink in Absenta (Sant Carles, 36) 12:00-14:00 Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambó, 16) to be sure to get a good night’s Gracious living 17:00-19:30 with its attention-drawing rooftop, or sleep, or try the more upscale Grab a bite down the hill in Sustenance and shopping try Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Gràcia, at the woodsy and Stop for a break in one of the Born’s 21), where you don’t have to limit Borbó, 69) or Café de los Angelitos spacious Café Salambó lesser-known squares, such as your choice to just one restaurant (Almirall Cervera, 26). (Torrijos, 51) or at La Pubilla

DODID YOU YOU KNOW? KNOW? AsUt quiwell ne as nonseque his more substantialquatium facepelibus creations, velleni Antoni hillanduscid Gaudí also designedquo et moluptatur? the lamp posts Nem thatquiamet adorn aut Plaça dolorep Reial. erferov

10 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS

Casa Amatller is a modernista gem on Pg. de Gràcia.

(Pl. de la Llibertat, 23), Casa Planells (Diagonal, 332). plentiful gardens, such as the specialising in old-school local Alternatively, take L5 of the metro 19:30-02:00 Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, food or, if the weather’s nice, in a from the Sagrada Família station Big night out 2). Another highlight is the Museu square such as Plaça del to the Diagonal stop and stroll Try the out-of-this-world double Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Diamant or Plaça de la Vila de down Passeig de Gràcia to hit the terrace of Invisible–Pizza Ravalo (MNAC), with its ample collections Gràcia. While you’re in the area, modernisme biggies: La Pedrera (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa and varied temporary exhibitions. have a look around for some (Provença, 261), Casa Amatller Carles for a healthy vegetarian unusual souvenirs in the shop- (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and Casa option (Jovellanos, 2), or the lined streets – suggestions Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). Mediterranean banquet that is Lo 13:00-15:00 include Boo for clothes de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining End on a beach spot (Bonavista, 2), and Magnesia your stomach, get a couple of drinks Take the cable car from Montjuïc to (Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the bar- Barceloneta, with its beaches and (Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for laden street of Joaquín Costa (46 boats, where you can relax with a homewares. WANDER OFF and 39, respectively), and then vermouth and a paella. Most GCUGQPFQYPVQVJGFCPEGƂQQTUCV restaurants in Barceloneta Many visitors stick to the Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113) specialise in seafood, taking 14:30-18:00 central areas, but the city is and/or Marula (Escudillers, 39). advantage of the nearby Med. The Explore modernisme so much more. Gràcia is full of prime real estate means some of Next stop: the Sagrada Família. life at all hours of the day, the better spots aren’t cheap, but if Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very Sarrià retains much of its 10:00-12:00 [QWoTGHGGNKPIƂWUJVJG[oTGYQTVJKV crowded, but it’s worth taking historical small-town feel, Mountain climbing Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La your time to appreciate his while Poble-sec and Sant Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) vision. Afterwards, walk over to Antoni are currently the Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan Av. Diagonal to keep the places to be, thanks to their mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró de Borbó, 65). A great place for the modernisme theme going by top cuisine and quality Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), more budget-conscious, with a stopping at Casa de les Punxes nightlife. And not forgetting the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy (Rosselló, 260), Palau del Baró the lively Port Olímpic. nearby constructions from the dishes to go with their relaxed vibe, de Quadras (Diagonal, 373) and 1992 Games, or walk around the is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).

TheUt qui huge ne nonsequethermometer quatium in Portal facepelibus de l’Àngel velleni was inauguratedhillanduscid almostquo et moluptatur? 60 years ago, Nem measures quiamet 22 aut metres dolorep and erferov weighs two tonnes.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 11 Tourism Desk

Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes

Montserrat, the magic mountain See, hear, touch and even Take a guided bus tour, ride smell the essence of a the train to the top or Benedictine monastery, explore the Montserrat which is a shrine to Catalan Natural Park on foot. Spend spirituality and culture, and the morning, the afternoon located in the middle of a or the whole day, natural park. Discover the but don’t secret of the magic miss what BUY YOUR mountain: the Virgin is a must- TICKETS AT of Montserrat, also known as see when BCNSHOP.COM ‘La Moreneta’(‘The Black visiting Madonna’). Barcelona. Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the city cosmopolitan city that offers centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You will be and gastronomic excursions; CULTURE VULTURES UWTRTKUGFCVYJCV[QWECPƁPF panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the bcnshop.com tours or themed routes through website and the Turisme de URGEKƁEFKUVTKEVUEQQMKPI Barcelona Tourist Information workshops, wine and chocolate Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for the There are many ways to visit little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings like the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música, or to museums, taking partner – and a multitude of advantage of the ArTicket or reasons to come here: the Barcelona multi-tickets, with free culture, cuisine, music, art... transport and discounts; and Whether you’re planning to babysitting services, wheelchair, see the best-known attractions or pram and pushchair hire, in Museums Unique spaces you’re looking for a truly special addition to the standard left- Art, history, archaeology, Visit the city’s myriad experience, at bcnshop.com you luggage services and airport science, music, sport... outstanding landmarks and YKNNƁPFOQTGVJCP transfers. Barcelona’s many and varied buildings, which have earned suggestions to suit a wide range There are many Barcelonas to museums are world-class global recognition for their of tastes. explore. Which one is yours? centres of culture and architectural and historical You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of knowledge. Take your pick! values and functionality. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are bcnshop.com. Buy your tickets at bcnshop.com guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the bcnshop.com

12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 13 Get this timeout.com/barcelona Discover Barcelona’s amazing tours Visit the ancient, medieval and modern sights of Barcelona. Book the best tours through our website! IVÁN MORENO IVÁN IRENE FERNÁNDEZ The best tapas restaurants BIG improv comedy shows Where to go for the ultimate in Catalan and Barcelona Improv Group (BIG) are back for a Spanish tapas new season of fun! ;QWoNNƁPFOGPWUNKUVKPIVGORVKPIVCRCULWUVCDQWVGXGT[YJGTG[QWVWTPKP See a brand-new show every month from Barcelona’s best English comedy the Catalan capital. The choice can be overwhelming, so we’re here to group. Every show has a unique theme and is completely unscripted, so bring you the best tapas restaurants to make your decision easier. you get a whole new experience every time.

Book a table and enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the Buy your tickets for BIG improv comedy shows, and discover other top city. www.timeout.com/barcelona ideas for exploring Barcelona at www.timeout.com/barcelona

14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 15 Quim de la Boqueria

ONLY IN BARCELONA

By Clemmy Manzo

16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com LA PLATA Not much has changed at this pint-sized tapas BE SCARED OF KISSING bar since it opened its doors in 1945. Tucked You’ll doubtless see locals away in a corner of the Barri Gòtic, owner Anna greeting each other with a peck on Marjanet serves up the same four tapas her each cheek. It might seem a tad parents did 70 years ago. Clearly it’s a case of forward, but it’s a custom that quality over quantity, as locals jostle for space quickly becomes strangely DO! with some of the world’s biggest stars (among appealing. them U2’s Bono, actor Daniel Brühl and top chef Ferran Adrià) for a taste of La Plata’s EAT ON THE STREET famous fried sardines, washed down with a It’s not exactly frowned upon here. GO WALKING glass of vermouth. It’s just not done. And really, Public transport in Barcelona is La Mercé, 28. www.barlaplata.com there’s no need. If you’re feeling excellent, and there are any peckish, just pop into one of number of rental vehicles to help Barcelona’s hundreds of cafés, you get around. But you’ll see more LUNCH AT THE MARKET bars and restaurants. of the city, and feel more like a local It’s hard to beat a morning at Barcelona’s if you use your own two legs. must-visit markets, where piles of golden DRESS HEAD TO FOOT IN cheeses, hanging hams and stacks of shiny FAST FASHION LOOK AFTER YOUR STUFF tomatoes vie for attention. So we suggest you We like Zara, Mango, etc. as much While things have improved here stay for lunch too. Among the kaleidoscope of as the next man,woman or child. in recent times, pickpockets are colours are some of the city’s best taperias, But there are so many clothing still on the prowl. City-dwellers are where you can feast on the very produce that emporiums here, don’t limit used to keeping valuables close, you’ve just been admiring. They’re usually yourself to the obvious ones. and it’s much cooler than traditional affairs where locals on their lunch spending time at the cop shop. break bark out their daily order while hungry STAY IN ONE AREA tourists studiously pour over the menu. Among Did you know that Barcelona has EAT SEASONAL our favourites are La Boqueria’s El Quim and more than 70 neighbourhoods? Wild mushrooms, chestnuts, Santa Caterina’s Bar Joan Frau. Didn’t think so. Wander off the sweet potatoes, pears, apples. beaten track and you’ll be well ;QWoNNƁPFJGCRUQHNQECNRTQFWEVU rewarded with new sights and that are at their peak right now, RECIPE POSTCARDS experiences. CPFƁNNKPI%CVCNCPNCTFGTUCPF Put the sombrero down. And don’t even think stomachs. CDQWVVJCVƂCOGPEQFTGUU(QTCYC[EQQNGTs BE EARLY CPFEJGCRGTsUQWXGPKTUVQEMWRKPUVGCFQP Life tends to adhere to a later GO BILINGUAL vintage-style recipe postcards and posters by timetable in Barcelona. Breakfast 6T[QWVCRNC[KP%CVCNCP5GGCƁNO Catalan design studio Yema. Inspired by at 10.30am, lunch from 2pm, and in Spanish. Yes, you might not get adverts from the ’30s, they use retro no supper before 9.30pm. And everything that’s going on, but you typography and illustrations to depict typical don’t even think about going out at will get a taste of this key part of Spanish and Catalan dishes such as crema night before 11pm. EKV[NKHGYJGTGRGQRNGƂKRHTQOQPG Catalana, paella, pa amb tomàquet, patatas language to another. bravas and pescaito frito. On the back are the DRINK TOO MUCH authentic recipes to match, so you can Now, we don’t want to sound like LOOK AWAY FROM re-create a culinary Barcelona experience back your mum, and we know alcohol is YOUR MOBILE home. Available at gift shops across the city. likely to be cheaper here than at 5GNƁGUVKEMUCTGPQVVJGOQUV www.yema.info home. But do as the Catalans do popular gadget in the city at the and savour your drinks. It’ll be moment, and while we all know more fun for everybody. how useful mobiles can be, EL NACIONAL Barcelona is full of beauty. Down a quiet passageway off Passeig de Don’t miss it. )T¼EKCKUCUWTGƁTGEQPVGPFGTHQT$CTEGNQPCoU most striking space. Inside the refurbished HEAD TO THE BEACH 19th-century building, it’s all high-ceilinged We’re not necessarily suggesting splendour with a big dollop of Art Deco. In the DON’T! you go swimming, and while centre is a stunning wooden barra, the perfect temperatures are dropping, the place for a glass of cava while you ponder sun tends to keep shining at this which eating areat to head for. Choose from time of year. Ideal for seafront Q[UVGTUCVVJGƁUJTGUVCWTCPVLWKE[UVGCMUCV strolls and al fresco dining. the brasserie, Spanish tapas at the taperia, or

ARTIST’S BOOKS ILLUSTRATION ABC OF COOL Terranova is one of the latest projects from Illustration in Barcelona is riding high. You’ll audiovisual creator Luís Cerveró; they seek out new find proof of it in the pages of the book Mundo writing talents and city artists. terrranova.com ilustrado (Illustrated World, Ed. Gustavo Gili).

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 17 Palo Alto

HOTELS WITH A VIEW Get a different take on the city from its rooftops

You’ve got up-close and personal with the Picassos, gawked at the Gaudís, and admired the Mirós. Now it’s now time for a new Barcelona perspective, from up above. Many of the city’s hotel bars and restaurants offer unbeatable views of the famous landmarks, minus the queues. Among the best is the slick rooftop of Hotel Majestic on Passeig de Gràcia. Masterful cocktails come with a poolside panorama of Casa Batlló and the spikes of the Sagrada Família. At the quieter end of deli-style snacks at the stall. Whichever you go there’s plenty of sunshine this winter. the Barri Gòtic is the romantic Hotel YKVJ[QWoTGKPXGT[UCHGsCPFETGCVKXGsJCPFU Palens: www.palens.com Duquesa de Cardona, housed in a here. Palo: www.palowood.com beautiful 19th-century building. One part Passeig de Gràcia, 24 bis. Ribot: www.ribot-barcelona.com QHVJGUKZVJƂQQTVGTTCEGKUQRGPCNNFC[VQ www.elnacionalbcn.com non-guests, who can admire views of the palm-fringed marina on one side and the QUIMET I QUIMET church of La Mercè on the other. For sea PALO ALTO MARKET A stand-up-only bodega bar serving tinned views, Eclipse South at the sail-shaped Taking place in an industrial warehouse in UJGNNƁUJ conservas) may seem like a peculiar W Hotel is your best bet. Like the rest of Poblenou’s Vila Olímpica, this monthly hipster choice, but century-old Quimet i Quimet in the building, this covered bar on the 26th hang-out showcases local fashion labels such Poble-sec is a Barcelona institution, exuding a ƂQQTKUMPQYPHQTKVUKPPQXCVKXGFGUKIP as Colmillo de Morsa, Mas34 and Mis Tesoros classic charm that transports you back to the details. Drinks don’t come cheap, but Vintage, as well as independent homeware city’s pre-Segway-tour days. It’s minuscule and they’re worth it for the sweeping vistas. designers and quirky art exhibits, museum-like, every inch of every wall lined Towards Sants station, Hotel Torre accompanied by a live music soundtrack. with wine bottles for sale and collectible %CVCNWP[CoUVQRƂQQTTGUVCWTCPVCHHQTFU Dotted around are gourmet street food trucks relics. And if tinned mussels aren’t your thing, 360-degree views of the twinkling city serving up everything from spicy tacos to worry not: there’s an extensive range of lights below. For an entirely different smoked pork baguettes. It’s more than a delicious montaditos (tapas on bread) to viewpoint, head out of the centre to the OCTMGVsKVoUCOKPKXKNNCIGQH%CVCNCPEQQN choose from to go with your choice of tipple. elegant Gran Hotel La Florida, where you $TKPI[QWTVTKND[JCVCPFUJCFGUsQTDGVVGT Poeta Cabanyes, 25. ECPEQODKPGCƁPGFKPKPIGZRGTKGPEGYKVJ still, buy them there. www.facebook.com/quimetiquimet hilltop views of the whole of Barcelona. www.paloaltomarket.com Hotel Majestic: Passeig de Gràcia, 68. www. hotelmajestic.es NAGUISA Hotel Duquesa de Cardona: Passeig de WOODEN SUNGLASSES Founded in 2012 by an architect and an Colom, 12. www.hduquesadecardona.com Wooden-framed sunnies are in fashion, and it KPFWUVTKCNFGUKIPGTVJKU%CVCNCPUJQGƁTOJCU W Hotel: Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1. seems everyone in Barcelona got the memo. breathed a new lease of life into the classic www.w-barcelona.es The trend that has taken the city by storm in the espadrille (espardenya in Catalan), launching Hotel Torre Catalunya: Av. de Roma, 2-4. last few years is showing no sign of waning, with innovative designs that propel the comfortable www.torrecatalunya.expohotels.com a few local eyewear designers specialising shoe into high fashion status. The stylishly Gran Hotel La Florida: Carretera de solely in wooden collections. Among them are creative collections are made with top-quality Vallvidrera al Tibidabo, 83-93. the handcrafted selections by Palens and Palo, materials and combine different textures and YYYJQVGNNCƂQTKFCEQO while Ribot’s funky designs are named after colours. Many add wood or cork to the typical Barcelona’s neighbourhoods. Touch wood jute (rope) heels, while most of the fabric is

FOR KIDS HOME-GROWN TRAINERS ABC OF COOL Do art galleries for kids exist? Yes! The problem Sneaker fever shows no sign of abating. For proof (or perhaps not) is that adults also love the pieces check out veteran Catalan vamba labels like Mates at Plom Gallery. Sèneca, 31. (Gayarre, 38) and Múnic (Rec, 22).

18 www.timeout.com/barcelona NGCVJGT9GNQXGVJGQPGUYKVJCOGVCNNKEƁPKUJ Find them at Ivori, Miralles, 7 or online at www.naguisa.com. CLASSIC COCKTAIL BARS HAVE A VERMOUTH If you’re a fan of vintage and don’t mind paying extra for high-level liquor, you’ll love Barcelona’s classic cocktail bars. Many are semi-secret places centred around the Eixample district, featuring rich dark wood interiors, crystal glasses and uniformed staff. Dry Martini is a regular on lists of the world’s best bars, and has celebrity mixologist Javier de las Muelas at the realm. Tandem Cocktail Bar has a Great Gatsby air to it, while sophisticated Solange brings a bit of Bond magic to Barcelona. Dry Martini: Aribau, 162-166. www.drymartiniorg.com Tandem Cocktail Bar: Aribau, 86. www.tandemcocktail.com Solange: Aribau, 143. www.solangecocktail.com BRAVA FABRICS What’s not to love about this fair-trade fashion label? Made exclusively in Barcelona from EGTVKƁGFEQVVQPVJGKTUJKTVUEQOGKPHWPDQNF RTKPVUUWEJCUƁZKGDKMGUTGFEJKNNKGU ƂCOKPIQGUCPFQWTHCXQWTKVGXGTOQWVJ siphon bottles. There’s a smaller selection of women’s shirts too, as well as ties, bow ties and handkerchiefs. What’s more, their strict eco-friendly ethos means that no plastic is WUGFKPRCEMCIKPIQTRQUVKPIsKPUVGCF[QWoNN Vermouth’s renaissance among younger get yours beautifully wrapped in burlap with When what’s cool generations may be down to its appealingly recycled paper tags. retro image, or perhaps there’s a growing Aribau, 179. www.bravafabrics.com has a long history appreciation of such traditions in a time of increasing globalisation. Whatever it is, one behind it thing’s for sure: any authentic Barcelona experience is incomplete without getting Like a phoenix rising from the ashes of its stuck into vermouth o’clock. dowdy reputation, vermouth has in recent Sit down for an artisan experience among times become the city’s most fashionable the oak barrels of Casa Mariol (Rosselló, drink. Made from white wine macerated with 442). This little bodega near the Sagrada CTQOCVKEUCPFUGTXGFQPVJGTQEMUQTƁ\\GF Família has gained international fame for its up with siphon soda, it’s usually enjoyed with own brand of vermouth, made with 150 herbs friends before a long lunch or an aperitif and spices, and a white wine base originating before dinner. A small plate of plump green from macabeo grapes. This is the place to olives or pickled anchovies are almost buy a bottle to take home. At the foot of obligatory accompaniments. While the Montjuïc, trendy Bar Seco (Pg. del Montjuïc, VTCFKVKQPYCUQPEGRTCEVKECNN[EQPƁPGFVQ 74) brings a large measure of vermouth cool the over-60s, now you’re just as likely to see to fashionable Poble-sec. On the other side of skinny jeans nursing tumblers of the stuff. the spectrum is old-school Bodegueta Cal The drink’s newfound popularity has resulted Pep in Sants (Canalejas, 12) and Gràcia’s in a resurgence of traditional bodegas as well Bodega Quimet (Vic, 23) – both beloved as a wave of contemporary vermuterias. veterans in the vermouth ritual. Brava Fabrics

SIGNATURE CERAMICSLOCAL HATS MODERN JEWELS If you’re a lover of ceramics, take a look at the From the fusion of skate and surf cultures comes Craft and design combine in the contemporary dream-like pieces by Lusesita (lusesita.net) and Laser Bcn. A must if baseball hats and sweaters jewellery of Alba Casares (albacasares.com) and the illustrated pieces by Uhaala! (uhaala.com). are a key part of your wardrobe. laser-bcn.com Berta Sumpsi (berta.sumpsi.com).

www.timeout.com/barcelona 19 into everyday bags of all shapes and sizes PALOMA WOOL from her workshop in the rural outskirts of The brainchild of 25-year-old Paloma Lanna, Barcelona. Other funky accessories include this fresh clothes label has become a huge hit sunglass cases, iPad covers and purses. since it launched last year. Lanna shirks the Buy her creations at Olokuti Gràcia, Astúries, SANT ANTONI MANIA faddish elements of fashion, choosing instead 36. www.numon.org to produce timeless, high-quality pieces made from linen and cotton. The sweatshirts feature prints of her personal analogue CYCLING The area that photographs; other designs are inspired by 9GCNYC[UMPGYKVDWVPQYKVoUQHƁEKCN proves anywhere artists such as Matisse and Picasso. They’re Barcelona ranks among the world’s best cities limited-edition pieces that in a way are works to cycle in, according to this year’s report by can become cool of art in themselves. All made proudly in urban planning experts Copenhagize Design Barcelona, as the designer herself puts it. Co. Over 100km of cycle lanes stretch across www.palomawool.com the city, making it easy for visitors to take in Sant Antoni was once a nondescript the sights on two wheels while simultaneously neighbourhood, but it earned its place DWTPKPIQHHVJQUGRCVCVCUDTCXCU$KEKPIs KPVJGEQQNJCNNQHHCOGCTQWPFƁXG JAMBOREE $CTEGNQPCoUHTGGE[ENGUJCTGU[UVGOsKU years ago, when a handful of pocket- Going strong since the ’60s, this tiny, cave-like currently only available to residents, but there sized bars opened up on and around C/ basement club on Plaça Reial captivates are rental services on practically every corner. Parlament. News of the audiences young and old with a diverse www.bornbikebarcelona.com neighbourhood’s cutting-edge cool musical programme 365 nights a year. From barcelonabiking.com HCEVQTURTGCFNKMGYKNFƁTG5QQPCP big band to bebop, Jamboree covers all styles www.tallerbicicle.net KPƂWZQHVJGOQFGTPOKZGFUGCONGUUN[ of jazz, inviting local and international artists with the classic, cementing Sant onto its celebrated stage. Legendary Antoni’s reputation as the musicians who’ve performed there include the PINC BY ANA TICHY neighbourhood of the moment – and it likes of Chet Baker, Lou Bennett, Kenny Clarke Ana Tichy has conquered the hearts of shows no sign of letting up. and Ornette Coleman. Monday night’s WTF! HCUJKQPKUVCUCUHCTCƁGNFCU6QM[QYKVJJGT Lined with bars, cafés and restaurants, jam sessions are a Barcelona classic, just like versatile pieces made with natural, organic Parlament is still the centre of the the club itself. fabrics. Feminine, urban and eclectic, her action. For a traditional bodega Plaça Reial, 17.www.masimas.com/jamboree collections are intended to be dressed up or experience, try wine served out of the down for everyday wear. She’s best known for barrel at stand-up-only Vinito. Bar the colourful prints she designs herself from Calders forms part of Barcelona’s new NUMON her small workshop in Gràcia. Featuring vermouth revolution (see p.19), while Núria, the designer behind the Numon brand, irresistibly fun jungle-themed prints for women Federal Café is where MacBook-toting describes her one-of-a-kind creations as and men, her latest collection secures her freelancers come for their daily dose of ‘accessories with history’. She’s like the fairy position as one of our favourite Catalan organic café. Two blocks down, on godmother of fabrics, lovingly transforming designers. Viladomat, Casa Lucio serves up disused vintage rugs, curtains and bedcovers Encarnació, 39. www.anatichy.com V[RKECN%CVCNCPEJGGUGUITKNNGFƁUJ CPFQOGNGVVGUYKVJVTWHƂGU1P% Aldana, a smattering of compact OMG BCN cocktail bars includes ’50s-style The concept of this Born boutique is that every Jonny Aldana. item should make you gasp ‘OMG!’. Mission The patch bordering Av. Paral·lel is the accomplished. Dynamic owners Iu and Estela gastronomic domain of Barcelona’s have created a magical treasure trove of all favourite culinary duo, the Adrià things made in Barcelona. Here’s the place to brothers. Among their four (soon to be discover emerging local designers, whether ƁXG TGUVCWTCPVUKUVJG/KEJGNKPUVCTTGF you’re in the market for giant pouf-like sofas or Tickets. Reservations have to be made the chunky rings of jeweller du jour, Alba months in advance, but if you can’t get Casares. The shop also regularly hosts a table, at least you know there are creative workshops ranging from pottery plenty of enticing alternatives nearby. to origami. Bodega Vinito: Parlament, 27. Pl. de la Llana, 7. www.omgbcn.com Bar Calders: Parlament, 25. Bar Federal: Parlament 39. Casa Lucio: Viladomat, 59. TOMATOES Tickets: Av. Paral·lel, 164 In a place where a key national dish involves Jonny Aldana: Aldana, 9 rubbing cut tomatoes on bread (pa amb OMG BCN tomàquet), it’s to be expected that the glossy

MOTHER & DAUGHTER GRAPHIC DESIGN ABC OF COOL Lydia Delgado and Miranda Makaroff create fun, Barcelona is an incubator for renowned graphic colourful fashion collections. Find the work of this designers. We love Toormix’s posters (toormix. family enterprise in Gràcia (Sèneca, 28). com) and Brosmind’s drawings (brosmind.com).

20 www.timeout.com/barcelona the seafront area of Barceloneta, order a 01 01. Pinc by Ana Tiichy creates beverage and you might be served ham, feminine, urban clothing cheese, patatas bravas, croquettes or 02. All the coolest eyes in BCN whatever chef Isabel comes up with that day are protected by wooden shades, (Almirall Aixada, 5). Elbows ready. Mouth like this Palens model open. Prepare to feast. 03. Accessories with history are YJCV[QWoNNƁPFCV0WOQPYJGTG they use recycled materials HOTEL OHLA With Barcelona’s tourist industry booming, hotels keep on going up all around town. While a few tend towards the anonymous, box-like 02 style, there are others that go the extra mile, indeed way beyond the extra mile, when it comes to making an effort to do something DGƁVVKPIVJKUƁPGEKV[*QVGN1JNCKUCECUGKP RQKPV6JKUƁXGUVCTFGUKIPDQWVKSWGJQVGNJCU one of the most memorable façades in the city centre, with eyes on stalks decorating its neo- classical structure. Inside this building that YCUEQPUVTWEVGFKPVJGoU[QWoNNƁPFVQR class tapas, an amazing rooftop pool and a stylish cocktail bar. Via Laietana, 49. www.ohlahotel.com CATALAN WINE Catalonia’s most famous alcoholic drink is undoubtedly cava, the bubbly white that had to change its name from champagne when that 03 French area was awarded one of those pesky protected designations of origin. But while it’s a delicious tipple, there are other local vintages worth trying. For whites, ask about Penedès varieties (this is the region where most cava is made), while for red there’s Priorat (the money’s-no-object choice), Montsant (a worthy alternative to Priorat), and Conca de Barbara. A recent article in Time Out Barcelona’s Catalan edition reported that more than half of restaurant-goers here don’t order Catalan wine. &QPoVDGCUVCVKUVKEsIQNQECN A SANDWICH CALLED BIKINI For most of us, the word conjures up images of red fruit so popular in Mediterranean cooking svelte, sun-kissed bodies. But for Barcelona is a common sight in Barcelona’s markets. FREE TAPAS residents, bikini equates to a ham and cheese According to a 2011 report by the Fundació Although its precise origins are unknown, the sandwich, buttered on the outside before Miquel Agustí, there are 13 traditional Spanish tradition of offering a small bite to eat being toasted. It’s said the name comes from varieties of Catalan tomato, including cor de to accompany a drink order in a bar has been the legendary Bikini nightclub in Les Corts bou (beefheart), pear tomatoes from Girona around for several centuries. Unfortunately, (www.bikinibcn.com). Their twist on a croque- and ones to be hung in the kitchen, such as unlike in other cities such as Madrid and monsieur became so popular that bars across the tomàtiga de ramellet. The last is the type Granada, the habit hasn’t caught on as much the city started to follow suit. Gooey in the recommended for pa amb tomàquet, and even in Barcelona. However, that’s not to say that middle, crunchy on the outside and if they’re picked in summer, they can last right VJGEWUVQOFQGUPoVGZKUVCVCNNs[QWLWUVJCXG exceptionally satisfying, the humble bikini has through winter.So keep your eyes open for this to know where to look. Gata Mala in Gràcia, for become a regional treasure. dangling delicacy, and don’t miss the chance example, is small and crowded but worth the Try a contemporary take on the old favourite at: to try bread rubbed with tomato, one of the battle for the treats they serve up with each Cup&Cake: Enric Granados, 145 city’s favourite snacks. beer ordered (Rabassa, 37). At Cal Chusco, in Blitz: Plaça Urquinaona, 8

VINTAGEBOOKS DESIGN PIECES For vintage Scandi furniture, try Noak Room (Roc You’ll be hard-pressed not to find a book you A spot to find a variety of design products is Altres Boronat, 69). At nearby Eterna, you’ll find souvenirs really want to buy at La Calders (Ptge. Calders, 9), Coses (Sèneca, 9). We particular like the items from BCN’s industrial past (Roc Boronat, 68). one of the city’s new temples to the written word. designed by the shop’s driving force, Marc Morro.

www.timeout.com/barcelona 21 THE GOLDEN AGE

The craft beer revolution has taken Barcelona by storm. We visit the brewpubs and alehouses that are putting the city’s beer culture on the map.

By Aitor Labrador Photos Iván Moreno

22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The pioneers MUSEU DE L’ERÒTICA The beer revolution won’t be televised either... it was created here!

Jazz THE BLACK December ’92. While Barcelona was IN THE LION recovering from its post-Olympic Serving good hangover, one young man was getting BOTTLE craft beer in ready to open what was to become a the Les Corts beer institution: Jazz. Almost a quarter neighbourhood of a century later, Àlex Camacho is for 51 years still behind the bar, cooking up some (Evarist Arnús, QHVJGƁPGUVJCODWTIGTUKPVJGEKV[ 70). with the same patient enthusiasm he radiates when he talks about beer. Jazz was a founding member of the Humulus Lupulus association and Steve’s Beer Academy, and its walls are full of history – and not just of music, but of beer as well. Margarit, 43 (Poble-sec) ⓣ 93 443 32 59 www.cerveceriajazz.com

.C|%GTXGVGEC Moska – Poma Another of the city’s top beer (5%) GORQTKWOUCPF%CVCNQPKCoUƁTUV Centennial and Fuggles hops, business dedicated exclusively to orange peel and craft beer, La Cerveteca was opened mashed apples by Guillem Laporta and Rubén Río 15 are in the mix. Tart years ago. They were pioneers in and slightly turbid putting together a menu of beers due to natural from around the world (especially the fermentation. USA) – most of which were as unknown then as they are trendy now sCUYGNNCUQHHGTKPIVJGEKV[oUƁTUV tastings, workshops and beer pairings. These days this is standard operating procedure, but it all started in this corner of the Barri Gòtic. Gignàs, 25 (Gòtic) ⓣ 93 315 04 07 www.lacerveteca.com Freiburg Before launching his latest project, 2D2Dspuma .C%GTXGUGTC BierCaB (a beer temple in the city Thanks to the passion of Susana and Artesana centre – see page 26), Manolo Maria, the Congrés area – home to Times have changed since 1993, Baltasar turned this sandwich bar into the two 2D2 spaces – has become a YJGP5VGXG*WZNG[OCFGJKUƁTUV a place of pilgrimage for lovers of real desirable destination for beer lovers. DCVEJQH+DGTKCPCVVJKURNCEGVJGƁTUV beer way back in 1996. Thanks to his There’s a shop where you can browse beer to be brewed and served at a selection of imported bottled beers – Espiga – Blonde their unique selection, with up to microbrewery in Barcelona. However, not only from Germany – and despite Ale (4.5%) 1,000 beers (including their own, new manager Olaf Martí has made having only three beers on tap, this Available in local obviously), and a bar with nine beers supermarkets, sure that the Artesana has stayed true small bar just opposite Collblanc QPTQVCVKQPƁXGQHYJKEJCTG this could bring VQKVUQTKIKPCNRTKPEKRNGUs[QWoNNƁPFƁXG market is the perfect place for pre- guaranteed to be local. What’s more, craft beers to the of their own brews on tap, plus beers match drinks before heading to the on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday Catalan masses. with interesting touches including wild Camp Nou or the Palau Blaugrana. Fresh, bitter, hints nights they offer beers plus tapas at mushrooms, honey and spices. A More than a club, more than a hot dog of fruitiness. And bargain rates. Who said craft beer classic. bar. gluten-free! had to be expensive? Occident, 12 (l’Hospitalet) /CPKIWC %QPITÅU Sant Agustí, 14 (Gràcia) ⓣ 93 440 56 33 ⓣ 93 501 47 19 ⓣ 93 237 95 94 cerveceriafreiburg.com www.2d2dspuma.com www.lacervesera.net

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 23 Welcome to the ‘Beerxample’ If the man behind the Eixample were with us today, he’d order a pint

beyond the limits of the city, beyond Catalonia and even beyond the borders IN THE of Spain. The turning point came when $KGT%C$ /WPVCPGT JKVƁTUV BOTTLE place in the world ranking of beer establishments on specialised website RateBeer in summer 2014: Barcelona JCFDGEQOGCDQPCƁFGDGGTVQWTKUO destination. The knowledge and insight of the business’s partners – Navarran brewery Naparbier, distributors Zombier, and two respected professionals from the sector, Sven Bosch (The Drunk Monk) and Manolo Baltasar (Freiburg) – laid the foundations. But as well as BierCaB’s 30 taps and their huge selection of bottled beers – now extended at the $KGT%C$5JQ2 (Muntaner, 57) – there’s plenty more La Calavera – beer to sample in the Eixample. Medical Stout (8%) LOCAL BEER FOR LOCAL PEOPLE Ideal for At Rosses i Torrades (Consell de Cent, desserts – black as coal, hints of 191), David Pié can claim the title of coffee, liquorice honorary godfather of the district’s beer and spirits. The culture. Open since 2010, this beer bottle says it all – cellar, store and bar invites you to enjoy an infallible cure a perfectly poured pint and even put a for all ills. record on the turntable, while you disconnect from the outside world and take a tour of the more than 500 beers on the shelves. Only a few metres up the road, there are two more recent arrivals, both obligatory stops. For starters, there’s Scottish brewers BrewDogoUƁTUVRWD in Spain (Casanova, 69), offering 20 draught beers (a mix of their own brews BREWDOG and guest beers) and the chance to be VJGƁTUVVQVT[VJGNCVGUVDGGTUHTQOVJG creators of the ever-popular PunkIPA. We can say it loud and clear: beer has Untappd, and websites including On the same stretch of pavement, accomplished what successive Catalan RateBeer or BeerAdvocate, to chase there’s OMA Bistro (Consell de Cent, governments have failed to do. down the latest arrivals, bottled or on 227) and its enticing suggestion of an Unfortunately, the image of Catalonia in tap, locally produced or imported. NYC-style brunch accompanied by a certain parts of Spain is not as positive And if Barcelona is the capital of this pint of craft beer. as we’d like it to be. But if the topic of imaginary state, the Eixample is its La Pirata – Also on Consell de Cent, just before it conversation is beer, and you mention Central Beer District, with its own Tremenda (8.5%) meets BierCaB Street – sorry, Muntaner the fact that you’re from Barcelona, the golden mile where Muntaner meets Imperial IPA with – another establishment is gaining a Simcoe and response is generally a mixture of Consell de Cent. And, more or less Amarillo hops. following among beer novices and admiration and envy. inevitably, it’s become known as the The hefty alcohol experts alike. It’s the Garage Beer Even in Madrid, lovers of real beer ‘Beerxample’, a reworking of content is well %QORCP[ (Consell de Cent, 261), a have to admit it: right now, Barcelona is n)CKZCORNGoVJGUGOKQHƁEKCNVCIHQTVJG integrated, with brewpub where, as well as tasting their the place to be. It’s the state capital for concentration of gay night spots that for CDKVVGTƁPKUJCPF own beers (an area in which, admittedly, a nation of loyal beer enthusiasts, who a long time have been the driving force heavy malt base. there’s some room for improvement), have made the alchemy of water, malt, of the local economy. you can make yourself at home on a hops and barley their sacred cause. sofa only a few feet from the Visitors are even putting together their BEER TOURISM fermentation tanks. own specialist beer tours all over the Just like the Gaixample, the area’s beer Heading up Aribau, it’s time to drop in city, using social media, apps like purveyors have become an attraction at L’Espumossa (Provença, 171), a

24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com .C/ÅU2GVKVC &KRWVCEKÏ  Try Ratpenat, created is the place with the most D[.C/ÅU2GVKVCoUDGGT taps (eight) per square metre. expert Albert Sanchís. BREWPUBS The freshest beer, straight from the fermenter

LE SEC With brewing apparatus in place, Anna Cufí and Bernat Diego combine their alchemical knowledge and experience to produce their own beers in this little microbrewery directly opposite Jazz and Steve’s Academy. BrewPub Le Sec is poised to change the way beer is enjoyed in Poble-sec, we have no doubt. Margarit, 52 ⓣ 93 461 88 75 www.brewpublesec.com

BLACK LAB A great location and a fusion LA MÉS PETITA menu (combining Asian and US KPƂWGPEGU CTGVJGUVTQPIRQKPVUQH BIERCAB this ambitious project that seems to have won over a fair chunk of the city’s beer-drinking public. Their Claudia IPA and Cosas Que Pasan APA were some of the best summer drinking in 2015. Palau del Mar. Pl. de Pau Vila, 1 ⓣ 93 221 83 60 www.blacklab.es

EL VASO DE ORO As well as producing legendary tapas for almost 50 years, since 2009 El Vaso has been serving Fort beer, straight from the brewery in L’Hospitalet and at the perfect temperature. One of their delectable platillos (small dish of food) accompanied by a slender BIERCAB ƂCWVC of ice cold beer should be a rite of passage for any beer fan. warm and welcoming beer emporium temple Ale&Hop (Basses de Sant Pere, Balboa, 6 ⓣ 93 319 30 98 where you can stock up at their shop 10) has ten draught beers on rotation www.vasodeoro.com and sip a quick half while enjoying and three ram-packed beer fridges. home-made croquettes and the friendly Over in Poblenou, the owners of La EDGE BREWING service of owner Cristina. A delight. %GTXGEKVC (Llull, 164), Quim and Angie, Based in Poblenou since 2013, US In short, when people talk about the FORT recommend a beer a day – unsurprising brewers Scott and Alan imported Beerxample, they’re talking about the when you consider their busy little bar/ brewing equipment from their home ideal showcase and barometer for PIENC shop stocks over 300 bottled brands. country to produce authentic craft Barcelona’s burgeoning beer culture. Incidentally, if you’re in Sant Antoni, beer for the local market. You’re $WVDG[QPFVJG'KZCORNG[QWoNNƁPFCV Since 2012 don’t miss the chance of a pint from any invited to come and explore Edge La Bona Pinta least one establishment in every (Diputació, 433) of the 12 taps at La Resistència Brewing every Saturday at 5.30pm, district with something to offer beer has been the ideal (Viladomat, 107). And if you’re lucky with a brewery tour and tastings for geeks and the increasing numbers of place to enjoy a GPQWIJVQƁPFUGTXGT5GTIK)KNKKPC €12, and there are ‘sensory new converts: shops, brewpubs, peaceful pint of talkative mood, and end up discussing training sessions’ and beer fashionable bars and restaurants with the best beer in philosophy, history or anarchy, you can pairings throughout the week. special beer–food pairings – such as the city, should you get a sense of what a fountain of Llull, 62 ⓣ 603 36 92 14 /QPFQTÅ (Floridablanca, 3) in the Sant manage to venture knowledge an ordinary Barcelona bar www.edgebrewing.com past Passeig de Antoni neighbourhood, which calls itself can become when you’re holding a Gràcia. a gastro beerhouse. Barri Gòtic beer decent pint of beer.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 25 01 Irene Fernández Photos MONTSERRAT BALDOMÀ /DIPUTACIÓ DE BARCELONA BALDOMÀ /DIPUTACIÓ MONTSERRAT

Eugènia Sendra 03 By LOOK UP!

Domes force us to lift up our gaze before captivating us with their volumes of empty space, their near-celestial vaults, CPFVJGKTƁPKUJGUCPFOCVGTKCNUs architectural apparel from every period and in every style. Barcelona may be light years away from Rome and Florence, but it has its fair share of soaring hemispheres dominating the cityscape. As well as the ten domes described opposite, there are modern creations such as the wooden vault of the Centre Comercial Las Arenas and the glass dome of the Hesperia Tower in L’Hospitalet, and other historic cupolas that we can only hope will be open to all at some future date: the Cúpula Venus in the old Teatre Principal (La Rambla, 27), the rotunda of the Coliseum theatre (Gran Via, 595), and those in the modernista complex of the Hospital de Sant Pau. Look up and spot the city’s prettiest domes.

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 02 10 BARCELONA DOMES

01. PALAU GÜELL Gaudí crowned the central hall of the Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5) with a parabolic vault of crystalline limestone blocks with perforations to admit natural light, and which soars up to a height of 17.5m. Heaven on earth. Visits are free on Sunday afternoons. palauguell.cat

02. SANT GAIETÀ CHURCH +VoUCUWTRTKUGVQƁPFCFQOGQPVJKUUECNGKPVJG Eixample (Consell de Cent, 293),and although its neo-baroque aesthetic is not for everyone, the acoustics seal the deal (it’s also an occasional concert venue). santgaieta.org

03. MERCAT DE LES FLORS In 1986 Mallorcan painter Miquel Barceló took on QPGQHJKUƁTUVRWDNKEEQOOKUUKQPUVJGOWTCNUHQT the dome in the Mercat de les Flors (Lleida, 59). He worked inside a structure that replicated the shape of the dome, to paint a seascape in relief. OGTECVƂQTUECV

04. FABRA OBSERVATORY This is the observatory’s original dome (Ctra. de l’Observatori Fabra, s/n), made of iron, which gives KVCTGVTQHWVWTKUVsPQVVQUC[UVGCORWPMsNQQM It opens up (only a metre) to allow astronomical observations at night, but you can also visit during the day. fabra.cat

05. MNAC Saint Peter’s in the Vatican inspired the dome that crowns the Palau Nacional (MNAC, Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), built for the International Exposition 04 of 1929. Its other architectural treasure is the impressive roof of the Oval Hall. mnac.cat

06. ESTACIÓ DE FRANÇA Not one but three vaults that are 19.10m high, decorated with plaster coffering, cover the main hall of the Estació de França (Av. del Marquès de l’Argentera, s/n). Here, the reference to Rome’s Pantheon is a direct one.

07. MAIN POST OFFICE As you wait to buy a stamp or send a parcel, contemplate the glass dome that presides over Barcelona’s central PO (Pl. d’Antonio López, 1). Early-20th-century skylights are few and far between in the city, so don’t miss this one.

08. BASÍLICA DE LA MERCÈ What’s the appropriate covering for a maritime basilica? Scales, of course. The Basílica de la Mercè’s original ceramic tiles haven’t survived, but it’s still eye-catching, especially from the outside (Mercè,1). basilicadelamerce.cat

09. LA UNIÓN Y EL FÉNIX It’s not easy to gain admission to the structure that tops the building designed by Eusebi Bona (Pg. de Gràcia, 21), but from the street it’s easy to imagine how tiny you’d feel under this giant drum.

10. BORN CENTRE CULTURAL An octogonal dome, a cupola and a lantern crown what was once the Born market (Pl. Comercial, 12), QPGQHVJGEKV[oUƁPGUVYTQWIJVKTQPUVTWEVWTGU;QW can see a similar structure atop another market, Sant Antoni. elborncentrecultural.barcelona.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 27 SÂLMON FESTIVAL CREATIVE J Experience innovative, fresh and interactive

In its fourth edition, performing arts festival dialogue with creators, with the festival Novembre, and in Uruguayan creator Tamara Sâlmon (November 26 to December 5) stamps imagined as a tipping point – that moment Cubas’s Multitud, which uses the splendid Sala its identity on the international festival circuit when concept and materials are transformed Oval of the MNAC museum as a performance as both socially relevant and visually innovative. into a show.’ Yet this is not an ending for the space (both on Nov 28). Originally created for a From a showcase for dancers in a European piece, she stresses – each performance is Montevideo (Uruguay) setting, the piece has framework, the festival has graduated into a posed as an open-ended intrigue in which the been ‘normalised’ with the recruitment of 60 manifestation of new collaborative work by public play a vital interpretative role. local volunteers. ‘This was one of three pieces unconventional Latin American, southern Of the few works showing pre-premiere, one envisaged for a more public context,’ says European and local creators. launches the festival on November 26. Italian Carmona. ‘We want our public to participate.’ Co-organised by the dance space Mercat de choreographer Ambra Senatore uses the Other MNAC-based shows are two versions of a les Flors (the main venue) and the ‘centre of narrative techniques of cinema in A Posto, in piece by Sònia Gómez entitled Bailarínas (Nov creation’ El Graner, Sâlmon includes around which dance sequences trickle into everyday 28 and 29). Departing from the minimalist 20 shows scattered over two weekends and actions. On November 27, the truths and piece that Gómez created, musician Javier priced between €6 and €12 (with some free of ƁEVKQPUQHVJGQHƁEKCNXKGYQHJKUVQT[CETQUU Cuevas and choreographer Amalia Fernández charge). The aim? To bring dance professionals cultures are explored in a work by Mexican and produce ‘recycled’ works that play on Gómez’s into the city while also reaching out to Catalan collaborators Olga Gutiérrez and design. Meanwhile, back at the Mercat, Igor & Barcelona’s many publics. Raquel Tomàs (at El Graner). ‘Politics impact Moreno’s Idiot-Syncrasy uses humour to explore ‘We’ve chosen projects by hugely diverse upon creation,’ says Carmona, ‘and this is the cathartic properties of dance (Nov 28). CTVKUVUYJQCTGWPKVGFKPVJGKTUGCTEJVQƁPF evident in many works.’ 1PGQHVJGOQUVFKHƁEWNVVJKPIUVQRKPFQYPKP a personal means of expression,’ says &WTKPIVJGƁTUVYGGMGPFVJGTGNCVKQPUJKR performance is simple experience, and some festival coordinator Elena Carmona. ‘Most between individual and society is explored in pieces get to grips with this. Bea Fernández performances are the result of intense different ways by Roser Lopez Espinoza’s trio in YQTMUYKVJVYQFKHHGTGPVDQFKGUVQTGƂGEVQPVJG

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The festival runs from Nov 26 to Dec 5. For info on performances, venues, times and prices, visit mercatflors.cat JOURNEYS

contemporary performing arts. By Alx Phillips Photo Rafael Arenas

physical elements of dance (Dec 3), while 5). Philosophical journeys are mused in El they include a plant shop in the Mercat’s foyer, a Chilean-Dutch creator Rodrigo Sobarzo %QPFGFG6QTTGƁGNoULa posibilidad que taxi trip around the city to explore its different combines choreography and theatre technique desaparece frente al paisaje, where moody airs, and a chain of straws running down in Apnea, an immersive, sensorial piece that images of European cityscapes are combined in Montjuïc, transporting one air into another evokes the sublime in natural landscapes a fragmented narrative (Dec 5). The physical city (daily shows throughout the festival). (Dec 3). Our relationship with the earth’s fauna and its associations are an inspiration for While most pieces emerge from slow-burning is a concern for Uruguayan Ayara Hernández Barbara Pinto, whose photos show her lying next TGUGCTEJRTQLGEVUCƁXGUVTQPIOWNVKFKUEKRNKPCT[ (Dec 4, El Graner), and Sâlmon casts a line out to street dogs in Santiago de Chile as an team led by Jorge Dutor and Guillem Mont de to new Barcelona scenic arts space Sala expression of ‘horizontality’ in the vertical city Palol seeks spontaneity – and a considerable Hiroshima for Antiwords, a piece by Czech context. Her images are displayed in Mercat de degree of goodwill from other creators – in VTQWRG5RKVƁTG &GE  les Flors throughout the festival. Holaquehace (Dec 4). They propose producing Journeys – physical, historical, philosophical Some artists hit the streets of Barcelona. ‘an immediate response’ to a work seen the CPFETGCVKXGsTGƂGEVVJGYQTMKPRTQITGUUGVJQU Quim Bigas seeks a direct encounter with his day before, in any one format, from radio to of the Sâlmon Festival as a whole. Colectivo public in Plaça Espanya, before taking them to cinema to performance. N-340 draws the public into the creative process El Graner where he presents small-format Socialising is essential in any festival, and with a work based on their 1,248km trek from pieces reconstructed from previously Sâlmon is framed by two free parties featuring Cádiz to Barcelona, along the old coastal route developed work (Dec 5). The architect and OWUKEITQWRUYKVJEJQTGQITCRJKEVKGUVJGƁTUV travelled by Andalusian immigrants (Dec 4). choreographer Carme Torrent and visual artist sees Les Sueques featuring Raquel Tomàs play Interaction, too, is pursued by Sra. Poloroyska in +ÍCMKNXCTG\QHHGTCOWNVKHCEGVGFTGƂGEVKQPQP post-punk indie pop (Nov 28, 10.30pm), while Lur Away, in which the audience is presented air in Air-condition. Theirs is a series of the close is heralded by a session from dancer- with a series of dilemmas, inviting you to interventions drawing on anthropological, choreographer Velarde and audiovisal artist participate in the development of a work (Dec philosophical and architectural perspectives – Corral (Dec 5, 11pm). Everyone’s invited!

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 29 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] Shopping & Style @eugeniasendra

To know a trade is to love it Cuervo Cobblerblack Shoe designer Teresa Folguera realised that she wanted to take the Bird next step and actually learn how to make them. By Laia Beltran Sèneca, 2 (Gràcia) Life is full of change. And sometimes, change comes that is completely unexpected. Surprise, however, has been a constant in the life of Teresa Folguera. Back in the day, she wanted to study mural painting at art school Escola Llotja, but a teacher inspired a exclusively as change of plans. ‘Perhaps it was shopkeepers, they my way of dressing, but she turned into the producers of their convinced me to do fashion Troba més own label. Folguera took charge of design instead,’ Folguera reportatges de the design and patterns, and of remembers, laughing. It wasn’t a botigues de supervising the production in Barcelona a bad choice. The profession timeout.cat Alicante of Cuervo, a line of shoes enabled her to do a variety of jobs for both men and women that and a lot of travelling. But one day, draws inspiration from classic she woke up with the desire to models, and it’s a role she stop running all over the place. maintains to this day. Meanwhile, She really wanted to put down Guirao learnt the trade of some roots. And that’s when she shoemaking from a master cobbler started the adventure of launching to be able to offer clients the a business. possibility of purchasing made-to- measure shoes. When you enter Cuervo you first notice a pleasant smell of polish. At Folguera is the far end, you might see Guirao working on some commission or already working other. Next to the counter, perhaps on some very you’ll find Folguera occupied with glaçage, a technique that consists simple sandals in shining the most rigid part of the for next spring shoes (and that she deems as complete when she can see her Cuervo Cobblerblack Bird wasn’t silver bracelet reflected there). Or created with such a long name, but you may catch her applying a patina instead with another one that paid to a leather wallet a client has homage to a film by Wong Kar-Wai. brought in. ‘It’s like playing with It had a certain logic – Emili Guirao, MARIA DIAS PHOTOS: watercolours,’ she explains, the other partner in the enterprise, MADE TO MEASURE displaying her inner painter. was (and is) very connected to the Cuervo creates bespoke leather Folguera has also found herself world of cinema. From the outset shoes for men and women. enamoured with cobbling, and now they were selling clothes, she’s the one taking classes. ‘I love accessories and footwear. But it it. In fact, I’m already preparing was the shoes that increasingly some very simple sandals for the became the protagonists, and it spring,’ she says. They will be the was just a question of time before first Cuervo products she’ll have the shop was converted into a shoe- made with her own hands. For this only emporium. The change in winter, the range includes an focus required a change in name. PUT A SHINE ON exquisite selection of shoes and And, as the seasons passed, the Apart from their artisan shoes, they ankle boots – eternal classics that role of the owners also took a whole also offer a shoe polish service. mirror iconic styles such as Oxfords new direction. Rather than working and Derbys.

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com

Shopping list Reissues, functional accessories, and clothes with no sell-by date – perfect pieces that will serve you well for many seasons. By Eugènia Sendra BIRTHDAY CARHARTT WIP Dungarees, the epitome of work clothes, are today a cult item thanks to the Detroit company, which is celebrating 25 years of being in Europe. Carhartt (Rec, 71).

ACCESSORY THE HENTEN BAG 6JGFGƁPKVKXGTGRNCEGOGPVHQTVJG traditional tote bag is this version made of cotton and leather, which has impeccable REISSUE ƁPKUJGUCPFVKOGNGUUGNGICPEG Bornisimo (Sant Pere Més Baix, 98). NO 74 This French brand of kids’ clothing and homewares has to keep reproducing its regularly SIGNATURE sold-out animal cushions. Petit Armari (València, 275). JUANMA BY EL CUCO For A/W 2015-16, Spanish designer Juanma Granero created the NEW Ballindalloch Revisited collection, inspired by a DE UBIETA trip to Scotland and that Work, leisure and relaxation are the three features patchwork, GNGOGPVUFGƁPKPIVJGRKGEGUKPVJGPGY paisley and gingham. collection from this label, which includes Ozz (Banys Vells, 10). an artistic essence in all its creations. De Ubieta (Sant Pere Mitjà, 70).

SALE SAMPLES

A NEW TAKE BODY AND SPIRIT SEASONAL FEET AN OBVIOUS CHOICE Barcelona stationery Carolina Blue stocks rustic- Combining the traditional methods of If you’re on a self-catering trip to company Octaevo style furniture and sweetly expert shoemakers from La Rioja with Barcelona and looking for a place has expanded into pretty home textiles and the latest trends and adaptations of selling organic produce or have special homewares, with crockery. Now it has a corner classic styles, Spanish shoe line Maians dietary needs, you should head to decorative items made dedicated to fashion in its has won itself an appreciative clientele. Obbio, a light, airy supermarket in from linen, ceramics Raval store, with creations This season sees the arrival of the Siro the Eixample that specialises in such and brass. Our faves from local stars such as Rita model, and new prints and colours that goods. And once are the vases made with Row, and Ssic and Paul, as well as bring to mind the rural getaway the you’ve browsed the waterproof paper – ideal for anyone alpaca sweaters from Peru, Swedish collection encapsulates. Siro shelves, take a break tested by the fragility of conventional brand Twist & Tango, and Anglo-Spanish Terrazo (R), €69. Camino, in their restful café. styles. From €17. Inventory, Sant Pere venture Azabala. Doctor Dou, 11. Elisabets, 13. Muntaner, 177. www. Mes Alt, 51. www.octaevo.com www.carolinabluedeco.com www.maians.es obbiofood.com. –E.S.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 31 Shopping & Style You inspire us Shopping Architect Arianna Russo changed paths to become a ceramicist. ƁGUVC Hers is the restless soul behind Blowawish. By Laia Beltran DON’T MISS IT....

When the Italian architect Arianna Russo signed up for a ceramics workshop in Paris, she was just looking for a way to disconnect from work, but ended up enraptured by the age-old craft. She remembers it as an amazing experience. Russo later moved to London, but the obsession continued. And it grew even more after she arrived in Barcelona, where she ‘GIRA IL MONDO GIRA’ decided to become an This nostalgic Italian song apprentice at the Apparatu provides the name for a collection Barcelona is an open city in many studio. This marked a of lovely pots, whose blue different ways, including in its turning point: Blowawish pigment designs are determined willingness to bring in cultural and was created and she went by the turn of the potter’s wheel. leisure happenings from solo. Russo adores elsewhere, giving them a local twist porcelain for its texture where possible. Halloween has and peculiar whiteness. piggybacked on the Catalan She loves working with institution of eating roasted moulds, playing with the chestnuts. Local children are movement of her body increasingly overwhelmed by gifts while creating, and the from both Father Christmas and blue of the Med. their more traditional festive Traditional Japanese visitors, the Three Kings, who arrive culture fascinates her. on January 5. And, for the past few Lights, cups, vases – all years, the city has launched its Blowawish objects have Christmas shopping campaign with an architectural BORO JEWELS its own take on Black Friday, the US undercurrent that, as Inspired by a Japanese textile spending extravaganza that follows well as telling an intimate technique, Russo makes linen Thanksgiving each year. UVQT[CNUQTGƂGEVU4WUUQoU necklaces onto which she sews As in the States, Black Friday restless, perfectionist spirit. pieces of material bathed in blue here is marked by limited-edition porcelain. Extreme beauty. special discounts. This November, Find Blowawish at Cosy, Casp, it will be more of a Black Weekend, 45. www.blowawish.com running from Friday 27 to Saturday 28, meaning there’s no excuse to miss the special offers if you’re in GET THE LOOK! town on those days. In 2014, more than 400 independent shops participated in the initiative, giving COMFORTABLE CLOTHING customers the chance to discover Russo is a big fan of Med Wind’s some of Barcelona’s smaller cotton dresses, and she often wears retailers located in the different them when in her workshop. Rambla neighbourhoods that make up the de Catalunya, 100 city, and that give it its unique OBJECT OF DESIRE commercial spirit. –Hannah Pennell SIGNATURE BAG Ha Wan Pao is a monthly mag from The ones from Cuadecuc have stolen Hong Kong about people who make Black Friday Barcelona takes her heart. Iorana, Diluvi, 10 pretty things, and, what’s more, only place on Friday 27 and Saturday

PHOTO: MARIA DIAS PHOTO: has blue ink. Which is why Russo 28 in many shops around the city. collects them. www.blackfridaybarcelona.com

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Shopping & Style Barcelona designer Ingrid Pou has created a Beginning again line of bags using seat belts. Old tyres, truck awnings, seat belts and council posters – is there ingridpou.com nothing designers can’t turn into stylish accessories? By Laia Beltran

SWISS PRECISION TWO WHEELS Unbelievably, this Freitag bag isn’t made of leather Cyclotie finds new uses for bike inner tubes – but rather old awning. €190. M69 Born, Rec, 28. bow ties. €35. [‘galeri], Viladomat, 27.

FROM LAMP POST TO ARM BLACK MINIMALISM A novel use of the material ads that Barcelona City This Babau bag is made from stitched-together seat Council hangs around town. €44. Vaho, Ferran, 43. belts, and has a light inside. €80. Joi d’Art, Call, 18. La tria de Carlos Hey, de la botiga Quin Cafè

ROUNDABOUT TRIP KEEP ON WALKING WELL PROTECTED Who knows how far the tyres in this Banda de Solid soles made from old tyres support these Pinza’t makes hand-painted accessories using Rodadura purse have travelled? €38. Esquirol, 3. Caboclo boots. €179. Baixada de Llibreteria, 8. recycled materials. Grunyí, 7. La tria de Carlos Hey, de la botiga Quin Cafè

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 33 Things to Do Out on the streets Increasingly popular with skaters and ITCHƁVKCTVKUVU$CTEGNQPCoUUVTGGVEWNVWTG 05 ƁNNUVJGEKV [$[Maria Junyent

04 03

01 06 02

Skateboarding, hip hop, graffiti that might have been designed is where you’ll find evidence of Natalia Rak’s ‘Butterfly effect’ – Barcelona’s street culture is with their specific needs in mind, Barcelona’s long-standing until December 4. thriving. There’s the annual both in terms of the surface graffiti and street art scene, Hipnotik festival at the CCCB, quality of the paving slabs and its starting with Joan Miró, who 03. FREE WALLS urban dance at the Mercat de les various levels, steps and edges. could be considered the city’s Of course, BCN is no street art Flors, skate shops and galleries Today it’s known across the first great street artist, and utopia: things got more difficult specialising in graffiti. But the planet as the finest skate park in ending up with the hundreds of for local graffiti artists when the real thing is out on the street. the city, and if you can find a spot anonymous artists whose city council introduced strict to sit and watch, you’ll see works fill the city’s walls today. new bylaws, penalising illegal 01. SKATER’S PARADISE skaters of all levels giving If there’s one gallery that graffiti with fines of up to As soon as the MACBA opened everything they have to pull off supports street art, it’s €3,000. Murs Lliures – literally in 1995, skaters descended en that elusive trick. Montana Gallery (Comerç, 16), ‘Free Walls’ – is a platform that masse to take over Plaça dels the exhibition space run by the locates wall space in the city Àngels. This square in front of 02. GETTING UP popular spray paint brand, and takes care of the paperwork the museum is an urban space Outside galleries and museums which is hosting Polish artist so it can be painted on legally.

34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol

scruffy dive bars is a decent- sized half pipe that’s not just there for decoration. You’re free to skate as hard as your level of drunkenness will allow.

05. BOWLS While Plaça dels Àngels is Barcelona’s top skate destination, the number of purpose-built skate facilities in the city is growing, after years of pressure from the local skate community, who’d seen a clampdown on skating in public squares and parks without any effort to create alternative spaces for skateboarders. One of the biggest successes, opened in March 2014, is the skatepark at Mar Bella, with 3,000 m2 of concrete bowls, rails, banks and a snake run, right beside the sea (Av. del Litoral, 196). There’s also terraced seating if you want to enjoy the show without risking your neck. The opening of Skate Agora BDN plaza only a few months ago was another big boost for the city’s skaters, finally putting the city on the international pro-skateboarding circuit. A short tram ride away in neighbouring Badalona, and the first park in Europe to be certified by Street League Skatebarding, it’s a public square that boasts quarter pipes, flat rails and slopes – and views of the sea.

06. THE SOUNDTRACK Thanks to concert promoters Mas i Mas, since 1993, fans of Sign up at www.murslliures. hip hop, soul and funk have had a com, and they’ll match your place in the city where they can project to a wall, without risk of go 365 days a year without repercussions. exception, and hear the music they love. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 04. BOARDS AND BEERS 17) is one of those clubs where The two incarnations of dropping in without knowing Nevermind (there’s one at exactly what’s on isn’t a risky Escudellers Blancs, 3 and proposition. After its legendary another at Tallers, 68) have a lot jam sessions and concerts going for them: a solid garage featuring living legends of jazz rock playlist, beer and basic and blues, the club fills with a cocktails at reasonable prices, different crowd who trust regular plus popcorn. But what lifts DJs Yoda and Eley to bring the them above the usual run of latest urban and R&B sounds.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 35 Things to Do

(various times and languages). Sat, Spanish; Sat, Sun 4.30pm in Sun, public holidays 11am to 7pm English; Sat, Sun noon in French. Tuesday 3 Day by day (various times and languages).€10 Spanish: €8.80; English and (general). €8 (reduced). Booking: French: €10.56. Human towers Information and sales: www.riostabarcelona.com. Tourist Information Points and Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Castellers practice session bcnshop.com La Pedrera by day Spectacular night-time event that See the Colla Castellera de Enjoy one of the most spectacular includes rooftop video mapping, Barcelona rehearse. FREE This activity is free buildings in Barcelona. screenings in different parts of the (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot (L1). €24.20; (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal building and a glass of cava. reduced €20.50. 7pm. Prior booking * The dates of league matches (L3, L5) and FGC: Provença. Daily (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal necessary: bcnshop.com. may be moved forward or back 9am-8pm (last entry 7.30pm). From (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Nov 1-2: one day, depending on TV €20.50 9pm-11pm.From Nov 3: 7pm-9pm. broadcast schedules More info and reservations: Tours Sant Pau modernista monument| bcnshop.com. Once a working hospital, this Torre Bellesguard | Sunday 1 network of pavilions was designed FREE Guided tour of Poblenou See Sun 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. by Lluís Domenech i Montaner. Cemetery Tibidabo (FGC). Traditions (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Explore one of Barcelona’s Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Tours in historical cemeteries. La Pedrera by day FREE All Saints various languages; consult for (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). See Sun 1. (Provença, 261-265). M: In Catalonia, All Saints is the schedule. Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm. 1st and 3rd Sun 10.30am Diagonal (L3, L5) and FGC: Provença. autumn festival par excellence Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish). 9am-6.30pm. celebrated with hot chestnuts, €14. €9.80 (reduced). sweet potatoes and sugary panellets. For many, it’s a time to Torre Bellesguard | Kids Wednesday 4 visit cemeteries and pay one’s Tours of Gaudí’s modernista castle respects to the dead. on the slopes of Tibidabo. A trip through time Human towers (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Fun challenges help you learn FREE Sardanes (FGC). Tue-Sun 10am-3pm (last about the 18th-century Castellers practice session Demonstration of the traditional entry 2.30pm). English tour: Sat, archaelogical site below the old Take your chance to see a rehearsal Catalan circle dance. Sun 11am. €16. €12.80 (reduced) Born market. by the Gràcia group of castellers, (Pla de la Seu). M: Jaume I (L4). El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Can Musons. (Alzina, 7). M: Fontana Every Sun, 11.15am. Palau de la Música Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I and (L3). €24.20; reduced €20.50. 8pm. Tour this emblematic building of Barceloneta (L4). Noon. €3. For Book in advance: bcnshop.com. Catalan modernisme. children 6-12. Al fresco (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours Tours FREE Weekend art fair 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Film Over 40 artists show their work for Palau de la Música sale in two pretty squares. Tibidabo theme park | Beefeater In-Edit See Sun 1. (Palau de la Música, (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Pi, s/n). M: Enjoy a range of fun activities for all /WUKEOGGVUƁNOCVVJGDKIIGUV 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Liceu (L3). Sun 11am-2pm. ages at Barcelona’s historical specialist music documentary theme park. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). festival in the world, with Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor screenings, awards, live Q&A with Football Football Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + tramvia directors and other events. blau or bus 196. For more details Various venues. Until Nov 8. www. * Champions League. FC * League fixture. RCD see page 41. in-edit.org Barcelona – Bate Borisov Espanyol – Granada CF Espanyol face the club from the Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi Barça take on the Belorussian side south of Spain. Date and time TBC. Visit the 14th-century Basilica of Monday 2 in the latest match in the www.rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Santa Maria del Pi and its belltower. Champions group stage. 8.45pm. Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Baix (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Noon, Tours For more info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de 1.30pm, 5pm. Catalan, Spanish, Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà. English. €10 (adults). €8 (children Liceu opera house M: Les Corts (L3). 7-16 years). bcnshop.com Discover Barcelona’s glorious opera house, carefully restored Tours El Born Centre Cultural CHVGTCFGXCUVCVKPIƁTGKP Thursday 5 Guided tours of site with 18th- (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Santa Maria del Mar rooftop century remains discovered below Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. Tours Guided tours to the top of this a former market. (Pl. Comercial, Sant Pau modernista monument historic church for great city views. 12). M: Jaume I and Barceloneta See Sun 1. Hospital Sant Pau Liceu opera house (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Sat, Sun (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: See Mon 2. (La Rambla 51-59). M: I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5.15pm 12.30pm, Wed, Sun 5.30pm in Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Liceu (L3).

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Things to Do

Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins FREE Guided tour of Funeral See Sun 1. (Provença, 261-265). M: Carriage Collection Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Unique collection of historical funeral carriages. (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). Film Every Sat at noon.

Beefeater In-Edit The other Pedrera See Sun 1. Various venues. Until Special, extended visit to discover Nov 8. www.in-edit.org hidden corners of Gaudí’s popular DWKNFKPICPFƁPFQWVCDQWVVJG changes it’s gone through. Friday 6 (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Every Human towers Saturday 12.15pm. €12.

Castellers practice session Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi Another human towers group, Cal See Sun 1. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Borinot of the Sants neighbourhood, opens its doors to spectators. (Comtes de Bell-lloc, 45). M: Sants- Al fresco Estació (L3,L5). €24.20; reduced €20.50. 8.30pm. Prior booking Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia necessary: bcnshop.com. Take a trip on a beautifully restored three-masted schooner. Maritime Museum (Av. de les Film Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Every Sat. Meet 9.30am; boat trip FREE International Women’s 10am-1pm. €12 adults. €6 kids. Film Festival Weekend of screenings of feminist FREE Weekend art fair ƁNOUHTQOFKHHGTGPVEQWPVTKGU Over 40 artists show their work for including France and Spain. This sale in two pretty squares. session includes six shorts by the (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Pi, s/n). M: likes of Agnès Varda. Liceu (L3). Sat 11am-8pm; Sun CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya 11am-2pm. (L1, L3). 8pm. www.cccb.org FREE Sardanes See Sun 1. (Pla de la Seu). M: Tours Jaume I (L4). Every Sat, 6pm.

Sant Pau modernista monument See Sun 1. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Film Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). FREE International Women’s Film Festival Secret Basilica del Pi Weekend of screenings of feminist Evening visits to the 14th-century ƁNOUHTQOFKHHGTGPVEQWPVTKGU Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi. (Pl. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Thu, Fri (L1, L3). 8pm. www.cccb.org 9.20pm (English). Sat 9.50pm (English). €19 (general). €16 (in advance). More info & reservations: Kids www.adsentiabarcelona.com and bcnshop.com. Xindogus Guided tour and workshop for families. Museu d’idees i invents de Saturday 7 Barcelona (Ciutat, 7) M: Jaume I (L4). 11.30am-1pm. €10. More info: Tours www.mibamuseum.com/agenda.

El Born Cultural Centre Un nou vestit nou See Sun 1. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: A version of ‘The Emperor’s New Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). Clothes’, with actors, puppets and

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 37 Things to Do live music. Born Cultural Centre Jaume I (L4). Every Sat, 6pm. (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I, Kids Tours Barceloneta (L4). 5.30pm. €8 (1 adult + under-8). Un nou vestit nou Sant Pau modernista monument| Kids See Sat 7. Born Cultural Centre See Sun 1. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I, Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Histories and Mysteries Sunday 8 Barceloneta (L4). Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Family workshop on daily life in Barcelona in the early 1700s. Tours Liceu opera house Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Film See Mon 2. (La Rambla 51-59). M: 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4). FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Liceu (L3). 5pm. €3. For kids 6-12. Cemetery FREE International Women’s Visit Barcelona’s hillside graveyard, Film Festival which is as much an art museum Weekend of screenings of feminist Friday 13 Sunday 15 CUCƁPCNTGUVKPIRNCEG ƁNOUHTQOFKHHGTGPVEQWPVTKGU Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya Human towers Tours del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; (L1, L3). 8pm. www.cccb.org FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun 11.15am Castellers practice session FREE Guided tour of Poblenou (Spanish). See Fri 6. (Comtes de Bell-lloc, 45). Cemetery Monday 9 M: Sants-Estació (L3,L5). See Sun 1. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Llacuna (L4). Cemetery with Mexcat Tours Explore the historical cemetery and Tours FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc enjoy a talk on traditional Mexican Palau de la Música Cemetery with Mexcat funeral culture from Catalonia’s See Sun 1. (Palau de la Música, Torre Bellesguard | Visit Barcelona’s hillside graveyard Mexican Association. You will also 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Sun 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. and enjoy a talk on traditional get the chance to make an altar of Tibidabo (FGC). Mexican funeral culture from the dead. (Av. Icària, s/n). Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Catalonia’s Mexican Association. M: Llacuna (L4). 10.30am See Sun 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu 1). M: Jaume I (L4). See Sun 1. (Provença, 261). M: del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Tibidabo theme park | Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. FGC). 11am. See Sun 1. (Pl. Tibidabo, 3-4). Funicular del TIbidabo (Pl. Doctor Tuesday 10 Andreu). FGC: Av.Tibidabo + Saturday 14 Kids tramvia blau or bus 196. Human towers 7pm-10pm, every 15 minutes. Tours Born detectives Castellers practice session Cameras at the ready for a trail of See Tue 3. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot (L1). The other Pedrera clues that will lead you all over the Football See Sat 7. (Provença, 261-265). M: Born archaelogical site. Born Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Cultural Centre (Plaça Comercial, * League fixture. FC Tours 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4). Barcelona – Villarreal CF Secret Basilica del Pi Noon. €3. For kids 6-12. Barça face the side from Torre Bellesguard | See Fri 6. (Santa Maria del Pi Castellón. Date and time TBC. For See Sun 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). more info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. Tibidabo (FGC). Sports Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). FREE Guided tour of Funeral M: Les Corts (L3). Carriage Collection Catalonia Championship and Wednesday 11 See Sat 7. (Mare de Déu del Port, Spanish Resistance Cup 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). Two motor-racing contests held Al fresco Human towers out at Barcelona’s Formula 1 track. Circuit Barcelona-Catalunya, FREE Festa Major of Sagrera Castellers practice session. Al fresco Montmeló. www.circuitcat.com See various human tower groups See Wed 4. (Alzina, 7). M: Fontana in action. (L3). FREE Weekend art fair Noon. For details: www.cccc.cat. See Sun 1. (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Al fresco Pi, s/n). M: Liceu (L3). Sat 11am-8pm. FREE Castellers Day in Gràcia Tours FREE Autumn show of Three local human tower groups Set sail on the Santa Eulàlia castellers in Poble-sec show off their skills. Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins See Sat 7. Maritime Museum (Av. See various human tower groups Noon. For details: www.cccc.cat. See Sun 1. (Provença, 261). M: de les Drassanes, s/n). M: in action.(C/Blai). Noon. For details: Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Drassanes (L3). www.cccc.cat. FREE Sardanes See Sun 1. (Pla de la Seu). M: FREE Sardanes FREE Festa Major of Clot Jaume I (L4). Every Sun, 11.15am. Thursday 12 See Sun 1. (Pla de la Seu). M: Three local human tower groups

38 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Things to Do show off their skills. (Pl. Valentí). Secret Basilica del Pi Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). FREE Sardanes Noon. For details: www.cccc.cat. See Fri 6. See Sun 1. (Pla de la Seu). M: (Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Liceu opera house Jaume I (L4). Every Sat, 6pm. Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). See Mon 2. Monday 16 (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Tours Tours Book your favourite Wednesday 18 restaurants at Friday 20 The other Pedrera Sant Pau modernista timeout.com/ Tours See Sat 7. (Provença, 261-265). M: monument barcelona Tours Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. See Sun 1. Hospital La Pedrera by day Sant Pau (Sant Antoni See Sun 1. Liceu opera house FREE Guided tour of Funeral Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal See Mon 2. (La Rambla 51-59). Carriage Collection Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. 9am-6pm. See Sat 7. (Mare de Déu del Port, Santa Maria del Mar 56-58. Montjuïc Cemetery). Palau de la Música Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins rooftop See Sun 1. (Palau de la Música, See Sun 1. See Sun 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Kids L5), FGC: Provença. Z. The Adventures of Zorro Tuesday 17 Saturday 21 Lively puppet show about the Thursday 19 swashbuckling masked defender Tours Al fresco of the poor. Born Cultural Centre Tours (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I, Santa Maria del Mar rooftop FREE Weekend art fair Barceloneta (L4). 5.30pm. €5. See Sun 1. Sant Pau modernista monument See Sun 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: See Sun 1. Hospital Sant Pau (Pl. Sant Josep Oriol i del Pi, s/n). M: Jaume I (L4). (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Liceu (L3). Sat 11am-8pm. Sunday 22

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 39 Things to Do

Palau de la Música See Fri 27. Tours See Sun 1. (Palau de la Música, Friday 27 Various shops in 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Barcelona FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Tours www.blackfridaybarcelona.com Cemetery See Sun 8. Cementiri de Montjuïc Tuesday 24 Torre Bellesguard | Sunday 29 (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: See Sun 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Football Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Tours

Torre Bellesguard | * Champions League. FC Palau de la Música See Sun 1. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Barcelona – Roma Shopping See Sun 1. Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Another Champions group stage (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: match. 8.45pm. For more info: Black Friday Barcelona | Urquinaona (L1, L4). www.fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou Local version of popular US Football (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts discount day. See page 32. (L3). Fri 27-Sat 28. Football * League fixture. RCD blackfridaybarcelona.com Espanyol – Málaga * League fixture. FC Espanyol face visitors from Wednesday 25 Barcelona – Real Sociedad Malaga. Date and time TBC. www. Saturday 28 de Futból rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Cornellà - Tours Another Camp Nou match. El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. Tours Date and time TBC. Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: El Born Cultural Centre For more info: Cornellà. See Sun 1. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: The other Pedrera www.fcbarcelona.cat. Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4). See Sat 7. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). Sports Santa Maria del Mar (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. rooftop Jean Bouin Race See Thu 1. (Plaça de Santa Maria, Monday 30 Popular running event held on 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Performance Montjuïc since 1920, with 16 Tours races over different distances. FREE Poetry Slam Organised by Mundo Deportivo. Thursday 26 Barcelona Liceu opera house www.mundodeportivo.com Creativity in action with live poetry See Mon 2. Tours performances at this annual (La Rambla 51-59). contest. M: Liceu (L3). Monday 23 Palau de la Música CCCB (Montalegre, 5). See Thu 1. (Palau de la Música, M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 6pm-8pm. Sant Pau modernista Tours 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). monument| See Sun 1. Liceu opera house Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Shopping Hospital Sant Pau (Sant See Mon 2. (La Rambla 51-59). M: See Sun 1. (Provença, 261). M: Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Liceu (L3). Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Black Friday Barcelona | Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5).

AL FRESCO MARKETS Open-air shopping destinations

EL RASTRO DE LA VIRGEN PALO ALTO FLEA MARKET FIRA DE SANTA LLÚCIA In the heart of the Raval Launched last year by a group of local At one of the city’s longest-running Get started with your Christmas shopping neighbourhood, this street market creatives, this weekend event includes second-hand markets, there are clothes, at this traditional fair with ornaments, feature second-hand goodies and art live music and street food as well as an records, games and books all waiting to crib figures and more. Av. de la Catedral. created using recycled materials. extensive number of stalls. Pellaires, 30. be snapped up. Plaça Blanquerna. From Fri 27. Mon-Fri 10.30am-9pm; C/ de la Verge. Sat 7, noon-8pm. Sat 7-Sun 8. 11am-9pm. €2. Sun 8, Sun 15. 10am-7pm. Sat,Sun 10.30am-9.30pm.

40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Sights

Architecture & FGC: Colònia Güell (S4, S8, Step inside one of the most Lesseps (L3). T. 93 285 44 40. S33). T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri beautiful modernista buildings 10.30am-6pm. €9. €7.50 Basílica de la 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun, public hols in the city, today a UNESCO (reduced). Sagrada Família 10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide). World Heritage Site. A fascinating interactive journey (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada €7.50 (reduced). that uses 4-D technology to take Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. Gaudí’s hidden treasure is a Sant Pau, modernista you inside Gaudí’s universe. 9am-6pm. Guided tour/with UNESCO World Heritage Site monument audio guide: €19.50. inside Colònia Güell, a planned (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). Poble Espanyol Barcelona’s most famous textile factory and residential M: Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, landmark, begun by Antoni Gaudí area 20 mins from Barcelona. Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm; Sun, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 KPCPFWPƁPKUJGFVQVJKU public hols 10am-2.30pm. Self- 508 63 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue- day. Ticket sales help fund the Gran Teatre del Liceu guided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced). Thu, Sun 9am-midnight; Fri 9am- ongoing construction of Spain’s (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu Guided tour (various times): €14. 3am; Sat 9am-4am. €12. €7, most popular tourist attraction. (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided €9.80 (reduced). First Sunday of €8.40, €9.50 (reduced). tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. month and under-16s free. More Built for the 1929 Barcelona Basílica de €16. 25-minute tour: Daily info: www.santpaubarcelona.org. Expo, Poble Espanyol is an Santa Maria del Mar (various times). €8. Tour the buildings and grounds of open-air museum on Montjuïc (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: www.liceubarcelona.cat Hospital Sant Pau, one of the with replicas of streets, squares Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. Visit one of the world’s great world’s largest Art Nouveau and buildings from all over Mon-Sat 9am-1pm, 5pm- opera houses: discover the monuments, restored and opened Spain. Regularly hosts live 8.30pm; Sun and public holidays impressive concert hall and to the public in 2014. music events. 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm. exclusive private rooms that Wheelchair access. make this one of Barcelona’s Torre Bellesguard Tibidabo Amusement Park Known as the ‘cathedral of the most emblematic buildings. (Bellesguard, 6-9). FGC: Av. (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus Ribera’, this church is one of the Tibidabo. T. 93 250 40 93. Tue- Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça most perfect examples of La Pedrera Sun 10am-3pm (last entry Catalunya. FGC: Av. Tibidabo + Gothic architecture, thanks to (Provença, 261–265). M: 2.30pm). Panoramic tour (audio Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + the harmony of its proportions Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 guide to exterior, remains of Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 and its inherent serenity. 138. Nov 1-2 9am-8.30pm. Last Martin the Humane’s palace, 79 42. For info and times: www. admission: 8pm. From Nov 3 audiovisual centre): €9. Guided tibidabo.cat. Sky Walk: €12.70. Basílica de 9am-6.30pm. Last admission: tour (tower, roof terrace): €16; in Children under 120cm: €7.80. Santa Maria del Pi 6pm. €20.50. €16.50 (reduced). English – Sat, Sun 11am. Amusement park: €28.50. (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) & Many Barcelona residents Discover the modernista castle Children under 120cm: €10.30. Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. regard this as Gaudí’s true that Antoni Gaudí built at the Inaugurated in 1899, Tibidabo Until Nov 10: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; masterpiece. The roof terrace foot of Tibidado mountain. features both classic rides and Sat, Sun and public holidays represents modernista new attractions with 10am-7pm. From Nov 11: Mon- CTEJKVGEJVWTGCVKVUƁPGUV'PLQ[ Leisure spectacular views over the city. Sat 10am-6pm; Sun and public the spectacular design at night holidays 5pm-7pm. €4. €3 with ‘Gaudi’s Pedrera. The Aire de Barcelona, PortAventura (reduced). Guided tour (including Origins’, a tour and rooftop Arab Baths (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. bell tower): Sat-Sun, various videomapping featuring multiple (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port times (book in advance). €10. screenings accompanied by Barceloneta, Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For €7-€8 (reduced). music. Nov 1-2, 9pm-11pm 5WP6JWƁTUVGPVT[ prices and times contact tourist One of Barcelona’s grandest VKEMGVQHƁEGQRGPURO (TQO 10am; last entry between 10pm QHƁEGUQTXKUKVRQTVCXGPVWTCGU Gothic churches, with great Nov 3, 7pm-9pm. and midnight; Fri, Sat: last sesion An hour south of Barcelona, views from its belltower. between midnight and 2am. this theme park has six zones Palau Güell www.airedebarcelona.com. of attractions, processions, Casa Batlló (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: These gorgeous Arab baths eateries and shops. (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 revive the ancient tradition of Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am- bathing as a form of relaxation. Barcelona Zoo 06. 9am-9pm. Last admission: 5.30pm. Last admission: (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: 8pm. €21.50. €18.50 (reduced). 4.30pm. Closed Mon except Barcelona Urban Forest Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ More info: www.casabatllo.cat. public hols. €12. €8 (reduced). (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 The sensuality and harmony of its Built by Gaudí in the late 19th Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 45. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Last interior, combined with Gaudí’s century, this palace belonged to 34 26. Sat, Sun, public holidays admission: 5pm. €19.90. use of colours, shapes and light, his principal patron. 10am-3pm. €11-€27 (depending Children (ages 3-12): €11.95. make this a must-see for admirers on age and circuit). Open for more than 100 years, of the architect’s work. Palau de la Música High-adrenaline exercise with over this is one of the city’s best- Catalana 30 attractions, including zip lines, loved attractions. Nowadays Gaudí Crypt (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: bungee jumping and trampolines. it’s home to more than 2,000 at Colònia Güell Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 animals representing some (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma 72 00. 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 Gaudí Experience 315 species, and hosts a de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) (reduced). Under-10s free. (Larrard, 41). M: Vallcarca, popular daily dolphin show.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 41 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] The Arts @eugeniasendra BIGAS LUNA / ‘MÉS DE I MÉS LUNA’ The other side of Bigas Luna Can Framis is hosting an exhaustive look at the artwork by the Catalan director QHƁNOUUWEJCUn,COÏPLCOÏPoCPFn$KNDCQo$[Eugènia Sendra

Bigas Luna was working on an he told us that the important thing to the elements on an iron table videos like Orígenes, a set of adaptation of Manuel de Pedrolo’s with these works was to make (he kept the snails that crawled up mirrors focused on the pubis, or novel El mecanoscrit del segon them, not to show them,’ says it), or canvases like ‘Bioners’, a the lactations created for his origen (Second origin typescript) Soldevila, who invited the artist to mixture of paint and natural CFCRVCVKQPQH8CNNG+PEN½PoU when he died in April 2013. put on his first exhibition at the residues, which Luna created in Comedias bárbaras (Barbaric 7NVKOCVGN[VJGƁNOYJKEJQRGPGF Galeria Metropolitana in 1997 the vegetable garden of his house comedies). VJKU[GCToU5KVIGUƁNOHGUVKXCNYCU alongside Peter Greenaway, in Nou de Gaià, and completed at The experimental artist is the completed by Carles Porta, whose his studio at Salomó. one we glimpse in Collar de moscas production company was behind The director also nourished his (Necklace of flies), a work made for the project. To coincide with its yen for the visual arts while filming; the Internet based on a story by premiere, this exhibition is a He didn’t need he sewed together the pieces of Misia Sert, and in Cares de l’ànima chance to see another side of paper on which he scribbled (Face of the Soul), paintings and Luna, a multifaceted artist who to exhibit – the telephone numbers and collages made up of primitive explored video art in the ’70s, important thing addresses to use them as a marks, which the public can add to, conceptual painting, and the canvas (‘Anfang’), and collected just as he did, using software potential of new technology in art. was to make leaves, which he stuck to his diary, created for the artwork. The show Indeed, Barcelona gallery owner these artworks covered in aphorisms (‘the carob concludes with Bigas Luna the Pere Soldevila recalls that Luna tree and the sea fell in love, they photographer, and one of the very was a video artist before he was a Dennis Hopper and Antonio López. had mussels and carob beans’). In last projects he worked on, but did ƁNOOCMGT The curator of the new exhibition, the show, fragments of his journal PQVEQORNGVGVJGTGFVKPVGFGTQVKE Can Framis has brought together Glòria Bosch, explains that Bigas are displayed around a table. slides of A fior di pelle, created for part of his output for the first Luna prioritised process, and was Tables are a key element in the an exhibition in Japan. retrospective of Luna’s work, inspired by the earth, rituals and director’s iconography, alongside entitled ‘Més de Bigas i més de time: this was the origin of Guions i nursing mothers and vaginas, Més de Bigas... is at Can Framis Luna’ (‘More of Bigas and More of pedres, sculptures made of piles which are also intertwined with his until December 20. Luna’). ‘He didn’t need to exhibit – of unusable screenplays exposed film work, as the central images of www.fundaciovilacasas.com

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Where colour triumphs Music of the times The Mapfre Foundation has opened an art This month sees the start of one of base in Barcelona, and it starts on a high $CTEGNQPCoUQNFGUVNQPITWPPKPIHGUVKXCNU

had various tenants 5KPEGKVUKPCWIWTCN VJGVKOGQHYTKVKPIVJGHWNNNKPGWR over the past century – season (which explains the for this year’s edition hadn’t been a religious school, the ‘Millennium Festival’ name – it’s announced, but one of the HQ of the Enciclopedia nothing to do with millennials or a undoubted highlights this month Catalana, and the art festival that lasts for a thousand will be the appearance of Paco collection of Francisco years), the Festival del Mil·lenni +D½ÍG\+H[QWoTGPQVHCOKNKCTYKVJ Godia. In 1987 the has stuck to its successful formula his work, this Valencian artist, who building went through of scheduling several months of turns 81 the week after this a renovation that won concerts to see Barcelona through concert, is renowned for his setting its architect a City of the winter and early spring. QH5RCPKUJNCPIWCIGRQGOUVQ Barcelona Prize. With Featuring performers from around music. During the rule of Franco, such an illustrious the globe and across genres, +D½ÍG\WUGFJKUETCHVVQUWRRQTV past, it’s only fitting among the hundreds of acts who VJGCPVKHCUEKUVECWUGCPFJKU that the new have been on the festival bill you’ll adaptations of the words of poets inhabitants are kicking ƁPFUWEJYGNNMPQYPCTVKUVUCU such as Federico García Lorca and off their incumbency Mark Lanegan, Joan Baez, Tracy Pablo Neruda eventually saw him with an exhibition full Chapman, Patti Smith and Jethro outlawed from performing to bursting with works Tull, as well as any number of in Spain. –H.P. by such distinguished JQOGITQYPUVCTUKPENWFKPI names as Van Gogh, Josep Carreras and www.festival-

VAN GOGH, ‘PORTAIT DE L’ARTISTE’ ©MUSEU D’ORSAY DE L’ARTISTE’ ‘PORTAIT GOGH, VAN Gaugin and Matisse. ƂCOGPEQUKPIGT millenni.com ‘The Triumph of Colour’ Miguel Poveda. At Barcelona is not short on beautiful features 72 paintings brought buildings, and it’s not lacking in art from the Parisian musems of venues, either. One of the many Orsay and l’Orangerie, for a rare happy consequences of this is excursion outside France. Don’t these two worlds sometimes miss this opportunity to enjoy the coincide, and a space opens up rich art movements of the late where the surrounds are as much 19th and early 20th centuries in an appeal as what’s hung on the one of Barcelona’s most splendid Paco Ibáñez walls. So it is with the recently edifices. –Hannah Pennell ‘Vivencias’ inaugurated Sala Fundación Wed 18, 9pm Mapfre. It’s located in the The Triumph of Colour runs until Palau de la modernista building built by the January 10, 2016 at the Sala Música Garriga Nogués family between Fundación Mapfre, Diputació, 1902 and 1904, and which has 250. www.fundacionmapfre.org Capturing life

As its name suggests, the Spanish 8GN½\SWG\COQPIVJQUGCEVKXG the wealth of the benefactor. Golden Age was a splendid time for This exhibition at the Catalonia Country larders idealise rustic the nation, both politically and National Art Museum includes a lifestyles. In Catalan, still lifes artistically. Covering more or less small but noteworthy selection are literally called ‘dead the period from the end of the 15th of still lifes from the era, which nature’ but this collection – EGPVWT[VQVJGOKFVJ KP draw us into life as it was back some of which will be Spanish, the era is described as el then, especially for rural incorporated into the Siglo de Oro, the ‘Golden Century’), dwellers. Nineteen paintings museum’s permanent archive during this time the ruling House of portray food and flowers, – is anything but gone and Habsburg was a force to be executed with technical buried. –H.P. reckoned with thanks to conquests accuracy and, in many cases, KPHCTQHHRNCEGUNKMGVJG#OGTKECU heavy with symbolism. A plate of Undamaged. Still lifes from as well as territories closer to figs may be a fragment from a the Spanish Golden Age is home. In creative terms, Spanish larger composition but stands on at the MNAC until cultural figures were flourishing, on its own as a superbly enticing February 28, 2016. €4.

with Cervantes, El Greco and image. Lavish bouquets reflect 2015 2014; INGRÉS, C. 1656. DIPÒSIT TEMPORAL, DE FIGUES, PLAT DE CAMPROBÍN. PEDRO www.museunacional.cat

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L5, FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, The art of the Spanish guitar: 10.30pm. Options: show only; 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), music and wine Music show + one drink; show + different Sagrada Família (L2, L5). Daily Guitarist Joan Benejam presents menu options (including tapas). 8pm (supper), 9pm-10pm (show). Fandango, which sees him €45-€160. €10 discount at tourist More info: www.casacamaron. perform with historic instruments. Sunday 1 QHƁEGURCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO com. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm. Classical Las Grandes Voces del Cante a&KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU Grande Jazz – Boogie Info: bcnshop.com. Guitar maestros at the Palau Great voices of contemporary David Russell plays the music of ƂCOGPEQKPQPGQH$%0oURTGOKGT 47th Voll-Damm Festival The most international music... Vivaldi, Bach and Tàrrega. tablaos. Internacional de Jazz de BCN – The Duo Matís with Núria Galvell Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes Stefano Bollani Danish Trio (cello) and Carlota Ruíz (piano). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L3) & Liceu (L3). Nov 1-15. Daily The eccentric and brilliant Italian Reial Acadèmia Catalana de les (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. 6.30pm, 8.15pm, 10pm, jazz pianist, comedian and Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: 11.30pm. €44-€78.50. celebrity with bassist Jasper Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €12 in Organ at the Palau tablaocordobes.com Bodilson and drummer Morton advance; €15 on the door. Under- Valencian organist Juan de la Lund. 14s €5. More info: www.racba.org Rubia performs a special Live Flamenco L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Halloween concert. 6JGRCUUKQPQHƂCOGPEQKPCP Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau intimate tablao on the Plaça 8.30pm. €30. More info: www. Jazz de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Reial. theproject.es. (L1, L4). 6pm. €6. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: First Cycle of Jazz and Blues Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, First Cycle of Jazz and Blues for Two Pianos: Marco Barcelona Municipal Band – The 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 for Two Pianos: August Mezquida & Albert Bover Sound of New York (web). www.masimas.com/ Tharrats & Lluis Coloma Modern jazz at Milano Cocktail Minimalism from John Adams, De tarantos Another concert in series at Bar. (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Meij’s ‘Big Apple’ symphony and Milano Cocktail bar. Catalunya (L1, L3). Nov 2-5. 9pm Oscar Navarro’s clarinet concerto Flamenco at Palau (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: (double session). Cover charge €8. evoke the spirit of NY in BCN. Dalmases Catalunya (L1, L3). Nov 2-5. 9pm L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina Baroque space is the setting for a (double session). Cover charge €8. (L1), Monumental (L2). 11.30am. NKXGƂCOGPEQUJQY Flamenco €9-€15. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L1). Daily 6pm, 7.30pm, 9.30pm. €25 Classical Palacio del Flamenco show (includes one drink). bcnshop.com. See Sun 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Gospel Bach in Barcelona Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Twice a week, cellist Jurgen van Gospel Concert Monday 2 Win performs Bach’s Suites in a Las Grandes Voces del La Vella Quirze Band plays a VJEGPVWT[$GPGFKEVKPG Cante Grande DGPGƁVEQPEGTVHQT0)1;COWPC Flamenco monastery. See Sun 1. (Rambla, 35). M: working with kids in India and Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Madagascar. Santa Maria del Pi Flamenco at Palau Dalmases (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). See Sun 1. (L2,L3). Mon & Wed 1pm. €16. 7pm. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L1). €7.99 children 8-17. Free for Wednesday 4 under-7s. Palacio del Flamenco show T. 679 305 718. reservas@ Classical Jazz See Sun 1. bachinbarcelona.com (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, Bach in Barcelona First Cycle of Jazz and Blues for L5, FGC). See Mon 2. Monestir de Sant Pau Two Pianos: Lo Trio Tuesday 3 del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Jazz manouche at the Milano Las Grandes Voces del Paral·lel (L2,L3). Cocktail bar. (Ronda Universitat, Cante Grande Classical 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Nov 2-5. See Sun 1. (La Rambla, 35). M: 9pm (double session). Cover Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Palau 100: Cecilia Bartoli Jazz charge €8. The grande dame of bel canto Live Flamenco performs Vivaldi, and a 47th Voll-Damm Festival See Sun 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça selection of works from her Internacional de Jazz de BCN – Flamenco Reial, 17). M: Catalunya latest project, on the music of Jazz is the future (L1,L3;FGC). the court of Catherine the The Melissa Aldana Trio + the Palacio del Flamenco show Great. Giovanni Guidi Trio. A full cast of guitarists, singers Flamenco show dedicated to Palau de la Música Catalana Conservatori del Liceu (Nou de la and dancers, and the rhythms of Camarón de la Isla (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Rambla, 88). M: Liceu (L3). the cajón, heels and palms. Casa Camerón celebrates the Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. 8.30pm. €30. More info: www. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, NGICE[QHCƂCOGPEQNGIGPF €30-€175. theproject.es.

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47th Voll-Damm Festival €28-€60. More info: Internacional de Jazz de BCN – Flamenco www.theproject.es. Vernau Mier Quintet Catalan alto saxophonist and Tablao Flamenco Nervión composer Vernau Mier performs City centre restaurant hosts Jazz ƁTUVCNDWONebuloses d’Azimut ƂCOGPEQRGTHQTOCPEG with special guest Marcel·lí Bayer. (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, 47th Voll-Damm Festival Harlem Jazz Club (Comtessa de Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + Internacional de Jazz – Gemma Sobradiel, 8). M: Jaume I (L4). drink €16.90; show + Genazzano & Joe Scott 10pm. €10, €12. More info: www. supper €27.90. Trio Find more theproject.es Sensual Latin jaz with concerts on our Flamenco at website vocalist Gemma Palau Dalmases timeout.com/ Genazzano. Boogie – Blues See Sun 1. barcelona Harlem Jazz Club (Montcada, 20). M: (Comtessa de Sobradiel, First Cycle of Jazz and Blues Jaume I (L1). 8). M: Jaume I (L4). 8.30pm. for Two Pianos: Lluis Coloma & €10, €12. theproject.es. Carl Sonny Leyla Blues at Milano Cocktail Bar. Boogie – Blues 47th Voll-Damm Festival (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Internacional de Jazz de BCN – Catalunya (L1, L3). Nov 2-5. 9pm First Cycle of Jazz and Blues Guillem Arnedo & Celeste Alías (double session). Cover charge €8. for Two Pianos: Lluis Coloma & with Jorge Rossy Carl Sonny Leyla ‘Let’s sing again,’ vocalist Celeste See Wed 4. (Ronda Universitat, Alías, pianist Jorg Rossy and Opera – Flamenco 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). band. Café of the Conservatori del Liceu (Nou de la Rambla, 88). M: Stories of Love Liceu (L3). 8.30pm. €12. A full cast performs the traditions Opera theproject.es. QHQRGTC\CT\WGNCCPFƂCOGPEQ Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, Opera at Palau Dalmases 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. Lovely music courtesy of La Petita Swing – Blues From €38. Info: bcnshop.com Companyia Lírica de Barcelona in a venue located in the old part of Blues at the MEAM the city. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume $QQIKG9QQIKGRKCPQYKVJ%CTN Flamenco I (L1). Every Thu. 11pm. €20. www. Sonny Leyland. palaudalmases.com (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Flamenco show dedicated to Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es. Camarón de la Isla See Mon 2.Casa Camarón (Roger Friday 6 de Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer Saturday 7 Classical (L4,L5), Sagrada Família (L2, L5). Classical Barcelona Symphony Thursday 5 Orchestra and Catalan Barcelona Symphony National Orchestra Orchestra and Catalan National Classical Ravel’s Mother Goose suite, Orchestra Shostakovitch’s Symphony no. 1, See Fri 6. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). The art of the Spanish 2TQMƁGXoUXKQNKPEQPEGTVQPQ M: Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). guitar: music and wine with soloist Isabelle Faust. 7pm. Robert Majure gives performance L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: entitled Flamenco Soul. Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). The art of the Spanish guitar: Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). 8.30pm. €10-€56. music and wine M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm, See Tue 3. Santa Ana Church a FKUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU  (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, More info: bcnshop.com. Pop – Rock L3;FGC).

Catalan musicians Ana Torroja Un cau de mil secrets The Arriaga Trio with music by Lead singer of ’80s trio Gaudí’s Barcelona comes to life in Granados, Haydn and Parra, and Mecano, Spanish pop legend this specially composed musical the world premiere of new work by #PC6QTTQLCRTGUGPVUEJCTV spectacle. Auditori de La Pedrera Benet Casablancas. topping live album Conexión. (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal Palau de la Música Catalana Palau de la Música Catalana (L3, L5) and FGC: Provença. Every (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: weekend in November (7, 8, 14, Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €10. Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. 15, 21, 22, 28, 29). Sat 6pm; Sun

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 45 The Arts noon. €9. More info: www. (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). lapedrera.com. Opera L3;FGC). 9pm. 8.30pm. €25. www.theproject. es Benvenuto Cellini De la bemoll Major de Weber a Jazz Terry Gilliam’s colourful production la Major de Frank QH$GTNKQ\oUVYQCEVQRGTC #PVQP5GTTC ƂWVG CPF%CTNQVC4WK\ Thursday 12 47th Voll-Damm Festival (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). (piano). Reial Acadèmia Catalana Internacional de Jazz de BCN – 5pm. €10-€286. liceubarcelona.cat de les Belles Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: Classical Iron & Wine ‘Solo Acoustic’ Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €12 in 75UKPIGTUQPIYTKVGT5CO$GCO advance; €15 on the door. Under- Bach’s Christmas Oratorio in a solo acoustic concert. Flamenco 14s €5. More info: www.racba.org. Santa Maria del Pi Church Barts (Avgda Paral·lel, 62). M: (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9.30pm. €20-€26. Flamenco at Palau Dalmases 8.30pm. More info: www.theproject.es. See Sun 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Opera Jaume I (L1). The art of the Spanish 47th Voll-Damm Festival Benvenuto Cellini guitar: music and wine Internacional de Jazz – Buika See Sun 8. (La Rambla, 51-59). See Thu 5. 5RCPKUJƂCOGPEQCPFLC\\UKPIGT Monday 9 M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, Concha Buika performs new 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). album Vivir Sin Miedo. Classical Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Jazz Trio Zimmermann de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Bach in Barcelona Chamber music by Schubert, (L1, L4). 9pm. €20-€54. More info: See Mon 2. Monestir de Sant Pau David Virelles Mbókò Quartet Hindemith and Beethoven. www.theproject.es. del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). Cuban pianist Virelles, combines L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). LC\\YKVJ#HTQ%WDCPURKTKVWCNKV[ Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina 8.30pm. €18-€28. www. Blues Palau 100: Beethoven’s Missa (L1), Monumental (L2). 8.30pm. theproject.es Solemnis €25. www.theproject.es A Contrablues The Palau de la Música chamber Blues session at city cocktail bar. EJQKTWPFGT,GCP%JTKUVQRJ Opera Milano (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Spinosi. Flamenco Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Benvenuto Cellini session). Cover charge €8. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Live Flamenco See Sun 8. (L1, L4). €15-€100. See Sun 1. (La Rambla, 51-59). Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. Flamenco Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Flamenco Opera at Palau Dalmases Palacio del Flamenco show See Thu 5. (Montcada, 20). See Sun 1. (Balmes, 139). Flamenco show dedicated to Wednesday 11 M: Jaume I (L4). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Camarón de la Isla See Mon 2. Casa Camarón (Roger Classical de Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Creative music Sunday 8 Sagrada Família (L2, L5). Bach in Barcelona See Mon 2. Gossos Classical Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp Catalan rock stalwarts Gossos Jazz (Sant Pau, 101). recreate the atmopshere of the The art of the Spanish guitar: 47th Voll-Damm Festival M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). rehearsal room, with the music and wine Internacional de Jazz de BCN – audience on the stage. See Tue 3. Santa Ana Church Ambrose Akinmusire Quartet Palau 100: Chamber music El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, One of the most exciting young %GNNKUV2CDNQ(GTT½PFG\RGTHQTOU Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & L3;FGC). 6pm. jazz trumpeters on the US scene. the music of Schubert, Bruch, Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €10 in Café of the Conservatori del Liceu Schumann and Shostakovich. advance, €15 on the door. Carmina Burana (Nou de la Rambla, 88). M: Liceu Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau %CTN1THHoUENCUUKEUWTGN[QPGQH (L3). 8.30pm. €8. More info: www. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona the most widely performed choral theproject.es. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20. Jazz works of all time. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina Maria Schneider Orchestra, (L1), Monumental (L2).6pm. €12- Tuesday 10 Jazz The Thompson Fields €16. Berlin’s great contemporary Classical Béla Fleck & Abigail Washburn LC\\DCPFRTGUGPVUKVUƁTUV Un cau de mil secrets 1NFVKOG#OGTKECPCGZRGTVU album in 8y years. See Sat 7. Auditori de La Pedrera The art of the Spanish guitar: banjo virtuosos and married L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal music and wine couple Fleck and Washburn. Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). (L3, L5) and FGC: Provença. Noon. See Tue 3. Santa Ana Church L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: 9pm. €33. www.theproject.es

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Friday 13 Music for families

Classical The Superbarber of Seville Riccardo Mutí Fondazione An adaptation of Rossini’s Orchestra Giovanile Luigi famous opera for young Cherubini audiences. Europe’s leading youth orchestra (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu plays Beethoven, Schubert and (L3). 10.45am, 12.45pm. €13. Mozart under maestro Riccardo Muti. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Opera 8pm. €13-€286. liceubarcelona. cat Benvenuto Cellini See Sun 8. El Amor Brujo de Falla (La Rambla, 51-59). The OBC performs Falla’s ballets M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. 'N#OQT$TWLQCPF6JG6JTGG Cornered Hat, recognised as some of the greatest Spanish Jazz music of all time. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: 47th Voll-Damm Festival Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Internacional de Jazz de 8.30pm. €10-€56. BCN – Llibert Fortuny Gas Band The art of the Spanish Cult Catalan saxophonist guitar: music and wine Fortuny is one of the mainstays See Tue 3. of the International Jazz Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, 29). Festival. M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3,L5). 9pm. €15-€22.

Blues 47th Voll-Damm Festival Internacional de Jazz de Blues at the MEAM BCN – Motis-Chamorro Boogie Woogie piano with Bernat Sextet & Young Jazz Band Font and Julio Lobos. Outstanding young talents from (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I the Catalan jazz scene. (L4). Every Friday. 6pm. €14. Palau de la Música Catalana meam.es. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €18-€42. Saturday 14 Classical Sunday 15

L’Amor Brujo de Falla Opera – Flamenco See Fri 13. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Grand Flamenco Gala Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Enjoy a grand performance of 7pm. the classic Spanish music genre. Palau de la Música The art of the Spanish Catalana (Palau de la Música, guitar: music and wine 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). See Thu 5. Santa Ana Church 9.30pm. From €38. (Santa Ana, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Classical Un cau de mil secrets See Sat 7. Riccardo Mutí Fondazione Auditori de La Pedrera (Pg. de Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) Cherubini and FGC: Provença. See Fri 13.

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(La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu Frontera (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €10 in (L3). 6pm. Contemporary stars explore (L2,L3). advance, €15 on the door. ƂCOGPEQUV[NGUHTQOVJGTGIKQPU KEA of Andalusia. Vocal group performs music by (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes Jazz Friday 20 $CEJ&CPKGN.GUWTCPF%JCTNGU (L3) & Liceu (L3). Nov 16-31. Daily Palau de la Música Catalana 6.30pm, 8.15pm, 10pm, 47th Voll-Damm Festival Classical (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 11.30pm. €44-€78.50. Internacional de Jazz de BCN Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. €15. tablaocordobes.com – Kurt Rosenwinkel Harriet Krijgh, Rising Star +PƂWGPVKCN#OGTKECPLC\\ Cellist Harriet Krijgh plays music FREE Homage to Grup guitarist. by Mendelssohn, Messiaen, Estrop Tuesday 17 L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Doderer and Franck. Reviving music by Badalona’s Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Grup Estrop, part of the ’60s Nova Jazz 8.30pm. €30. More info: www. Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Canço scene. Museu de theproject.es. 8.30pm. €8-€12. Badalona (Pl. Assemblea Jazz at Milano Cocktail de Catalunya, 1). M: Find more Bar The art of the Spanish Badalona Pompeu concerts on our Concert at city centre Flamenco guitar: music and wine Fabra (L2). 7pm. website bar. (Ronda Universitat, Carmen, Barcelona Duo de timeout.com/ barcelona 35). M: Catalunya (L1, Morón y Jerez de la Frontera Guitar perform a candlelit L’Amor Brujo de Falla L3). 9pm (double See Mon 16. (La Rambla, 35). M: concert while you enjoy a glass See Fri 13. session). Cover charge €8. Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). of wine. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Santa Ana Church (Santa Ana, Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). 47th Voll-Damm Festival Flamenco show dedicated 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 11am. Internacional de Jazz de BCN – to Camarón de la Isla 7pm. €20. Discount at tourist Marc Ribot & The Young See Mon 2. QHƁEGU+PHQDEPUJQREQO Un cau de mil Philadelphians Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, secrets Marc Ribot revives Orenette 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), See Sat 7. Coleman’s harmoldics and the Sagrada Família (L2, L5). Gospel Auditori de La Pedrera (Pg. de Philadelphia sound of the ‘70s. Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Gospel concert by Cor Carlit and FGC: Provença. M: Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Thursday 19 $GPGƁVEQPEGTVHQT2TQKPHCPVU 8.30pm. €36. More info: www. chidrens charity. theproject.es. Classical Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Young musicians Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 8.30pm. First Palau – Aëris Trio Musical Residencies Classical Oboe, clarinet and bassoon trio 2015-2016 perom Mozart, Yun and C.P. E. Saturday 21 $CTKVQPG,QUGR4COQP1NKXGT Recital brutalment virtuós Bach. Palau de la Música performs music by Monteverdi, With Victor Braojos (piano). Reial Catalana (Palau de la Música, Classical Handel and Bach. Acadèmia Catalana de les Belles 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Auditori de La Pedrera (Pg. de Arts (Pg. Isabel II, 1). M: 8.30pm. €12. Symphonies at the Palau Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, L5, Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €12 in The Vallès Symphony Orchestra FGC: Provença. 6pm. advance; €15 on the door. Under- performs works by Gershwin, lapedrera.com 14s €5. Jazz 4KXGTCCPF/½TSWG\ More info: www.racba.org. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 47th Voll-Damm Festival Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €18- Monday 16 Palau 100 – Chamber Internacional de Jazz de BCN €68. The Belcea Quratet play the – Cécile McLorin Salvant Jazz music of Haydn, Bartók and 2TK\GYKPPKPI#OGTKECPLC\\ Vivaldia a la Pietà Beethoven. vocalist tours new album For The Femeni Scherzo Chamber 47th Voll-Damm Festival Palau de la Música Catalana One to Love. Choir and the Orquestra Barroca Internacional de Jazz de BCN – (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Barts (Avgda Paral·lel, 62). M: Catalana under Jordi Casas. Antonio Sánchez & Migration Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm. €18-€34. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Meixcan jazz drummer with his €25. More info: www.theproject.es. Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). band migration. 7.30pm. €12-€17. Conservatori del Liceu (Nou de la Rambla, 88). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. Wednesday 18 Creative music Iter Luminis with Lydia €15-€22. www.theproject.es Pujol Classical Trau One of the most unusual voices 5KZVKGUKPƂWGPEGFRU[EJGFGNKE on the Catalan scene in a Flamenco Bach in Barcelona HQNMTQEMHTQO5CPV$QK performance that links the See Mon 2. El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça architectural heritage of Morón y Jerez de la Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & Catalonia with visions of the

48 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com The Arts future. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Palau de la Música Catalana Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Jazz de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20. Urquinaona (L1, L4). Noon. €15. 47th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival – New Sounds Gonzalo Rubalcaba Monvínic Creative music Saturday 28 Experience amb Carlos Latre Neue Vocalsolisten ,C\\CPFƁPGYKPGYKVJ%WDCPLC\\ Yaray Hernández Classical Stuttgart great Gonzalo Ribalcaba and VJEGPVWT[$TC\KNKCPOWUKEKPC Part of the Auditori’s Sampler Spanish humorist Carlos Latre. ECHÅLC\\UGVVKPI. El Born Centre Jordi Savall and Hesperíon Series with a group that Monvínic (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume Cultural (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: XXI experiments with new forms of I (L4). 8.30pm. €175. Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. The leading expert on early vocal performance. €10 in advance, €15 on the door. music performs Mediterranean MACBA (Pl. dels Àngels, 1). music from the medieval era. M: Universitat (L1,L2). 7pm. €5. Tuesday 24 Saló del Tinell (Pl. del Rei s/n). M: Jazz Classical Jaume I (L3). 7.30pm. €10-€40. Flamenco 47th Voll-Damm Festival 2TQMQƁGXoU4QOGQCPF The four quartets of Internacional de Jazz – Marco Juliet ‘Jerez la canta a los Farruco Mozart... Mezquida Trio with Bill The OBC under Salvador Brotons y los Amaya’ #PVQP5GTTC ƂWVG #PC4QKI McHenry RGTHQTOU2TQMQƁGXoUOQUV The most talented dancer of his (violin), Cristian Izcue (viola) and Minorcan pianist and improviser popular work, Barber’s Adagio generation, Farruquito. Marta Pons (cello). Reial Acadèmia Marco Mezquida with saxophonist and Copeland’s clarinet Tablao Cordobes (La Rambla, Catalana de les Belles Arts (Pg. Bill McHenry. concerto. 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu Isabel II, 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). Conservatori del Liceu (Nou de la L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 10pm, 8pm. €12 in advance; €15 on the Rambla, 88). M: Liceu (L3). Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). 11.30pm. €54-€89. door. Under-14s €5. 8.30pm. €12. www.theproject.es 7pm. €10-€56. Sat 28-Sun 29. www.racba.org Jazz Sunday 22 Swing Wednesday 25 47th Voll-Damm Barcelona Classical Chino & The Big Bet International Jazz Festival – Flamenco Live music at city centre bar. Mark Turner & Orquestra Jazz Family concerts at the (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: de Montosínhos Palau Morón y Jerez de la Frontera Catalunya (L1, L3). Nov 2-5. 9pm One of the most admired Family show with the Cobla Sant See Mon 16. (La Rambla, 35). M: (double session). Cover charge €8. saxophonists of his generation, Jordi, jazz, funk, folk and 3D Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). with Portuguese jazz orchestra. mapping! 4 years and older. A L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: special kids guided tour of the Friday 27 Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). building starts at 10.30am. Jazz 8.30pm. €32. Palau de la Música Catalana Blues (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 47th Voll-Damm Festival Urquinaona (L1, L4). Noon. €11. Internacional de Jazz de BCN – Blues at the MEAM Sunday 29 Neneh Cherry Boogie Woogie piano with Elena Barcelona Municipal Band With a career spanning decades, Lasco and Victor Puertas. Classical Music from the New World: HTQORWPMVQoURQRTCR (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). &XQT½MCPF)GQTIG.NQ[F ubiquity, Cherry breaks new Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es FREE Shh. We’re making music L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: ground with her latest project. See Sun 15. L’Auditori (Lepant, Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Barts (Avgda Paral·lel, 62). M: 150). M: Marina (L1), Monumental 11.30am. €9-€14. Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm. €30-€35. Pop – Rock (L2). More info: www.theproject.es. Estopa Monday 23 Rumba meets rock with local Monday 30 Thursday 26 JGTQGUVJG/WÍQ\DTQVJGTUHTQO Classical Cornellà, presenting new disc Flamenco Classical Rumba a lo Desconocido. Palau 100 Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). Palacio del Flamenco show Pianist Christian Zacharias plays Coral Orfeo Català – John M: Espanya (L1,L3). 9pm. €28-€60. See Sun 1. (Balmes, 139). M: music by Scarlatti, Chopin, Ravel Rutter Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). and others. John Rutter conducts the Camera Paloma San Basilio and the Palau de la Música Catalana Musicae orchestra and the youth Boys Choir Live Flamenco (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: and girls choirs of the Orfeó Spanish singer Paloma San See Sun 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. Català in a performance of two of Basilio performs with Les Petits Reial, 17). M: Catalunya €12-€60. his own works. %JPCPVGWTUFG5CKPV/CTE (L1,L3;FGC).

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(L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Mon- ended with capitulation to Bourbon Fundación MAPFRE Sun and public holidays 10am-6pm. troops on September 11, 1714. Casa Garriga i Nogués (Diputació, Exhibitions €5. Reduced: €3. FREE Portrait of Companys Until 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, Nov 22. Images of Catalan L4). T. 93 401 26 03. Mon 2pm- Montjuïc, the construction of a president Lluís Companys who was 8pm; Tue-Sat 10am-8pm. Sun and Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de castle Permanent exhibition. UJQVD[ƁTKPIUSWCFKP public holidays 11am-7pm. €4. Barcelona Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles Reduced: €2. (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Berga. Permanent exhibition. Espai VolART-Fundació Vila Casas Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona FREE The Triumph of Colour Until 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm; Sat 9am- CCCB (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri Jan 10, 2016. See page 43. 1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm- L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & 8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Fundació Suñol FREE The Art of Silk in Barcelona public holidays 11am-8pm. Closed Mon and public holidays. €1. (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal Nov 5-Apr 30, 2016. Exploring 500 Mon (except public holidays). €6. (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri years of the city’s silk guilds. Wed (except public holidays) and for (CH-CH2)n Until Dec 13. Works 11am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat 4pm- pensioners and students: €4. that employ acrylics on wood, resin 8pm. Closed Sun and public Biblioteca Pública Arús Under-16s & unemployed: free. and mixed techniques. holidays. €4. Reduced: €2. (Pg. Sant Joan, 26). M: Arc de Triomf Connections Until Dec 13. (L1). T. 93 256 59 50. Mon, Wed, Fri +Humans Until Apr 10, 2016. Retrospective of sculptural works Permanent exhibition Collection 9.30am-3pm. Tue, Thu 4pm-9pm. Regarding the possible future of from late Catalan artist, Albert QHYQTMUDGNQPIKPIVQ,QUGR5WÍQN our species. Coma Estadella. that includes art by Warhol, Dalí, FREE 400 years of Rosicrucianism World Press Photo Nov 12-Dec 13. Tàpies, Picasso, Miró and Man Ray. in the world Until Dec 4. Four Stunning images the capture news Fundació Antoni Tàpies Italia. The Six Senses Until Jan centuries of the secret society. stories from around the globe. (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia 9, 2016. 4GGZCOKPCVKQPQHNCVG (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- VJEGPVWT[+VCNKCPYQTMUJGNFD[ Blue Project Foundation CosmoCaixa Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. VJG5WÍQN(QWPFCVKQP (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) (Isaac Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Students and pensioners, €5.60. Rosa Amorós. Debris and urges & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- Tibidabo. T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun Until Jan 23, 2016. Works dating Sun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3. and public holidays 10am-8pm. Tàpies: An Artist’s Collection from the ’90s to the present day by Closed Mon (except public holidays). Until Jan 10, 2016. Works the late Barcelona artist Amorós. Joachim Koester. Hacer cuerpo €4 (permanent and temporary Catalan artist created between the FREE Nivel Zero. ACTE 33 Until con la máquina Nov 6-Jan 10, 2016. exhibitions). Under-16s free. ’40s to the ’80s, and pieces by Jan 2016. ‘The Artist and the Work by conceptual Danish artist other artists from his own collection. Stone’ by Matteo Guidi and who uses video and photography. 3D Planetarium No end date. Giuliana Racco. Michelangelo Pistoletto Nov 13- New installation that lets you Fundació Catalunya–La Pedrera Mar 28, 2016. The Italian painter is explore space on a 3D voyage. (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, Gaudí Exhibition Center CMG[ƁIWTGQH#TVG2QXGTC Flooded forest No end date. One L5). T. 902 202 138. Mon-Sun Museu Diocesà (Av. de la Catedral, 4). of the museum’s star attractions is 10am-8pm. €3. T. 93 315 22 13. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm. CaixaForum this living exhibit with more than M: Jaume I (L4) and Liceu (L3). (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). URGEKGUQHƂQTCCPFHCWPC Modernisme. Art, workshops, gaudiexhibitioncenter.com M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 476 from the Brazilian Amazon jungle. industries Until Feb 7, 2016. The 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults Year 2100 experiment Until work of countless artisans in the Walking with Gaudí New interactive €4. Under-16s free. January 2016. What might life be modernisme movement. exhibition, created with Samsung, like in the year 2100 and the 22nd which delves into the inspirations Animals and pharaohs Until Jan 10, century? Fundació Joan Miró and creations of Antoni Gaudí. 2016. Looking at the role of the (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya animal kingdom in Ancient Egypt. El Born Centre Cultural (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue- Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & Sat 10am-7pm; Thu 10am-9pm; (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Sun & public holidays 10am- T. 93 319 75 39. Daily 10am-10pm. (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries Tue-Sun and public holidays, 10am- 2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public Public holidays 2pm-10pm. €7.50. (L1) & Poblenou, Llacuna (L4). T. 93 8pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays). €11. Temporary Under-13s free. 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun holidays). €6. Reduced: €4. Under- exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. 11am-2pm. Closed Mon and public 16s free. Sun 3pm-8pm free. First Permanent exhibition Past, holidays. €5. Reduced: €2. Sun every month free, 10am-8pm. Permanent exhibition Most present and future of cannabis. important public collection of FREE Grow on Until May 1, 2016 More of Bigas and more of Luna FREE Barcelona 1700. From works by the Catalan artist. Marking the 30th anniversary of Until Dec 20. See page 42. stones to people No end date. Rubén Grilo. When Lines are Time Sensi Seeds, the world’s main Invented realities Until Dec 20. VJEGPVWT[$CTEGNQPCYCU Until Dec 8. An exploration of supplier of cannabis seeds. Barcelona photographer Oriol F[PCOKECPFHQTYCTFNQQMKPIDWV industrial world through pieces Jolonch incorporates a surrealist marked by the wars that affected that include incomplete artistic Jardí Botànic aspect into his works. the city from 1691 to 1714. materials. (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). FREE Until it is done! The siege of Miró and the Object Until Jan 17. M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 Castell de Montjuïc 1714 No end date. Examining the 6JGƁTUVGZJKDKVKQPVQGZCOKPGVJG 41 60. Daily 10am-5pm. €3.50. (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya OQPVJUKGIGQH$CTEGNQPCVJCV role of objects in the work of Miró. Reduced: €1.70.

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Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from del Poblenou). M: Poblenou (L4). global Med climate zones and a T. 93 256 21 00. Wed 10am-2pm. show of bonsai trees. Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 4pm-6pm. Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet of curiosities Until Apr 2016. Tue- FREE Interogate Barcelona, from Sun, Mondays that are public industrialisation to the 21st holidays 10.30am-4.30pm. €5. century Permanent exhibition Reduced: €2.50. looking at recent city history. Reconstruction of one of BCN’s earliest natural MUHBA Park Güell Find more history collections. concerts on our (Olot, s/n. Casa de la website Guarda). MACBA. Museu d’Art timeout.com/ M: Vallcarca (L3). T. 93 Contemporani barcelona 256 21 22. Daily 9am- (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: 6.45pm. The Casa de la Universitat (L1, L2) & Sant Guarda museum is part of the Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 08 10. ‘monumental area’ of the park, and Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; Sat 10am- visits are covered by general 9pm; Sun, public holidays 10am- conditions for admission. Access 3pm. Closed Tues (except public with ticket only. www.parkguell.cat. holidays). Whole museum ticket: €10. Reduced: €8. Permanent exhibition The Casa de la Guarda, Park Güell and Species of space Until Jan 31, modernista Barcelona. 2016. Examining the spaces that FGƁPGWUD[VJGYC[YGWUGVJGO MUHBA Plaça del Rei Sergi Aguilar. Reverse/Obverse (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Until Jan 31, 2016. Retrospective 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun of work by Barcelona sculptor. 10am-8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. Xavier Miserachs. Barcelona Under-16s free. Free admission Sun Until Jan 10, 2016. Work of Catalan from 3pm. photographer who documented VJEGPVWT[$CTEGNQPC Permanent exhibition Tour of the Carlos Bunga. Capella Until Feb Roman colony of Barcino. 7, 2016. Bunga built this show Carolingian coins of Louis the around the chapel where it’s being Pious (814-840) No end date. staged. MUHBA Refugi 307 MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art (Nou de la Rambla, 169). Modern M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 22. Sun: 10.30am (Eng), 11.30am T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am- (Spanish), 12.30pm (Catalan). 8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. Closed public holidays. €3.40.

21st-century art Permanent MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres of exhibition of almost 300 paintings underground passageways bear and 80 sculptures. witness to the city’s suffering Odd Nerdrum and School Until Nov during the Civil War. 15. Paintings by the Norwegian artist and some of his students. MUHBA Santa Caterina (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Jaume I (L4). MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Sat 10am- de Barcelona 2pm. Closed Sun, public holidays. (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-7pm; FREE Permanent exhibition. Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays Archaeological display among the 10am-2pm. Closed Mon (except foundations of the Santa Caterina public holidays). €8. Reduced: €6. market.

Permanent exhibition The world MUHBA Turó de la Rovira of creativity and inventing. (Marià Labèrnia s/n). Bus: 119,V17. T. 93 256 21 22. General access has MUHBA Oliva Artés PQƁZGFVKOGVCDNG/WUGWOCTGCU (Espronceda, 142-146, Parc Central Sat, Sun 10am-3pm.

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Permanent exhibition Barcelona centuries including ceramics, to the limit. GOODNESS ME! textiles, furniture and clocks. Graphic design: from trade to Museu Blau profession Permanent exhibition. (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del Tracing the professionalisation of Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). graphic design. T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm. Sat 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays Museu del FC Barcelona 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 and public holidays). €6. Reduced: €2.70. 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 Museum & Botanical Gardens: €7. 00. Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun 10am-2.30pm (some parts of tour Drawings by Luis Feo Until Jan 31, are closed on match day). €23. 2016.#TVYQTMKPURKTGFD[UEKGPVKƁE Children: €17. Under 6s & FCB illustrations and experts in members, free. drawing, etchings and photography. Nutrition, vital instinct Until May Camp Nou Experience Discover 2016. Fundamental concepts of 100 years of the club’s history and

food and nutrition, as well as BRINKHOFF/MOGENBORGB visit the stadium. healthy eating habits. Museu del Mamut Museu de Badalona Mamma Mía! (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). In 1978, Abba performed ‘Chiquitita’ at a UNICEF concert. 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Badalona. M: Badalona-Pompeu The song was a smash in South America, and the group €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children Fabra (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue-Sat TGTGEQTFGFKVKP5RCPKUJ KVoUVJGEQPVKPGPVoUDKIIGUVUGNNKPI (6-15): €3.50. 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & public holidays 10am-2pm. €6.48. single). Hear it and lots more faves at this Spanish version of Permanent exhibition Reduced: €2.16. the hit show. From Nov 26. Teatre Tívoli. www.mammamia.es See remains of woolly mammoths and other Ice Age animals. Permanent exhibition Visit the underground remains of the Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun, Museu de les Cultures del Món Museu del Modernisme Català Roman city of Baetulo. public holidays: check with museum. (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia Oriol Rius. Artista de la utopia T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Tue- Until Nov 15. Sculptures and The history of the motorbike in Sun and public holidays 10am-8pm. Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun, public paintings donated by late artist to Catalonia 36 of the most Closed Mondays (except public holidays 10.30am-2pm. €10. the museum. representative models. holidays). €5. Reduced: €3.50. Reduced: €7. mmbcn.cat Bultaco, a legendary Permanent exhibition Art, books Museu de Montserrat motorbike Until Nov. The musem and objects gathered in Asia, Permanent exhibition Works by (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 pays homage to one of Spain’s Africa, Oceania and the Americas. 42 key artists of the Catalan Montserrat). FGC: Monistrol de greatest motorbike Writings. Symbols, words, modernisme movement. Montserrat + zip train. Mon-Sun manufacturers. powers Until Jan 31, 2016. Tracing 10am-5.45pm. €7. Reduced: €4-€6. the development of writing from an Museu Egipci de Barcelona Museu de la Música instrument for conserving words. (València, 284). M: Passeig de Permanent Exhibition Paintings by L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Glòries & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 Museu del Disseny de Barcelona Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso. 36 50. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2NFG 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. €11. Ramon Calsina, Remembrance 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5. les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). Reduced: €8. Until Jan 17, 2016. Retrospective Reduced: €3.50. Free admission M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Tue- of work by the late Catalan artist. Sun from 3pm and for under-16s. Sun 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €3. Permanent exhibition Hundreds Roger Ballen, Fate Until Jan 6, museudeldisseny.cat of exhibits provide a glimpse into 2016. Selection of 35 photos from Permanent exhibition Take a trip life in Ancient Egypt. the New York artist. through musical history. From the world to the museum. Tutankhamun. Story of a Tridimensional sculpture Until Product design, cultural heritage discovery No end date. 1922 MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica Jan 17. Paying tribute to the guitar. Permanent exhibition. Daily objects archaeological expedition that (La Rambla, 96). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 considered from a museum uncovered the pharaoh’s tomb. 318 98 65. Daily 10am-midnight. Museu de la Xocolata perspective. Adults €9. Reduced: €8. (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Dressing the body. Silhouettes Museu Frederic Màres Sant Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf and fashion (1550-2014) (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Permanent exhibition History of (L1). T. 93 268 78 78. Mon-Sat Permanent exhibition. How women T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am- eroticism and its portrayal in art. 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-3pm. €5. change their shape with clothes. 7pm; Sun, public holidays 11am- Groups: €4. Extraordinary! Decorative and 8pm. Closed Mon (except public Museu de la Moto de applied arts collections (3rd-20th holidays). €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. Barcelona Permanent exhibition The story century) Permanent exhibition. (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 93 318 65 84. of chocolate from its origins. Pieces of art from across the Permanent exhibition Valuable

52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com The Arts artworks and objects. 2016 Celebrating the relationship Institute in the Sant Rafael pavilion base a lot of their stage work on Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31, between Picasso and the hosts exhibition. physical comedy and mime. 2016. How a trip to Greece inspired Barcelona Reventós family. Les aventures d’Hercules Nov 8, sculptor Aristides Maillol. Picasso’s passion for El Greco 15, 22, 29. 12.30pm. €25-€69.90. Until Jan 17, 2016. This exhibition Family theatre that tells the story of Museu Marítim de Barcelona compares work by the two artists. Theatre the Greek hero. From children three (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: and up. In Catalan. Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Palau Robert Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal 7Sins Teatre Tívoli (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat (Muntaner, 7). M: Sant Antoni (L2). (Casp, 8-10). M: Catalunya (L1, L3), 7 vessels, 7 stories Until Dec 31. 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays T. 93 453 64 45. www.facebook. Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). T. 902 5GOKRGTOCPGPVUJQYQHUQOGQH 10am-2.30pm. com/guinnesslaughterlounge. 888 788. www.mammamia.es the museum’s model vessels. FREE Catalan actresses of the Tickets available via Eventbrite. Ona-Ola-Wave. Surf in Catalonia 20th century Until Mar 27, 2016. Mamma Mía Tue-Thu 8pm; Fri, Sat Until Jan 17, 2016*QYUWTƁPIJCU Local stars of the stage. Carl Donnelly Sat 21 8.30pm 5.30pm, 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Nov 26- grown in popularity. FREE Natural paths, vital (doors), 9.30pm (show). €10 in Feb 28, 2016. €25-€69.90. Abba’s itineraries Until Dec 31. #TGƂGEVKQP advance (eventbrite.com), €12 on OGICRQRWNCTOWUKECN+P5RCPKUJ Museu Nacional d’Art de on the role played by nature in our the door. Guinness Laughter See box opposite. Catalunya personal development. Lounge hosts double Edinburgh (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, FREE Baltasar Porcel. Mallorca, Comedy Award nominee Donnelly, Teatre Victoria L3;FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat Barcelona, el món Nov 28-Feb 28. with his show ‘Jive Ass Honky’. (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel (L2, 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays Remembering the Mallorcan writer L3). T. 93 329 91 89. teatrevitoria. 10am-3pm. Closed Mon (except and journalist. El Molino EQO$QQMKPIQHƁEG9GF(TKHTQO public holidays). €12. Admission to (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 5pm. Sat, Sun, from 4pm until roof terrace €2. Free entry Sat Pis-museu Casa Bloc 93 205 51 11. www.elmolinobcn. performance starts. afternoon, from 3pm. Temporary (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU6JWT5CVRO shows: ask at museum. Bages (L1). Guided tours in Catalan, Tickets available via Ticketea, Mar i Cel Thu 8.30pm; Fri 9.30pm; Spanish and English: reservations Atrapalo, Telentrada, Entradas.com Sat 5.30pm & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Permanent exhibition World’s must be made in advance before CPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU Until Jan 10, 2016. €29-€46. Dagoll most important collection of Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am. Dagomm’s popular musical about Romanesque art and Catalan Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Rumba experience Thu 7pm. corsairs and captives. In Catalan. modernisme. Thu 3pm-5.30pm. Individual visits: €18.50. Enjoy rumba as you’ve Xavi Gosé Nov 27-Mar 20, 2016. €3. Info: tel. 93 256 68 01 or www. never seen it before. Tinta Roja Marking the centenary of the death museudeldisseny.cat. Cabaret experience Thu 9.30pm; (Creu dels Molers, 17). M: Paral·lel of this acclaimed Catalan artist. Fri, Sat 6.30pm, 9.30pm. From €24. (L2, L3) and Poble-sec (L3). T. 93 Undamaged. Until Feb 28. See Casa Bloc A symbol of rational Until Dec 31. Cabaret, circus, song 443 32 43. www.tintaroja.net. page 43. social housing in Barcelona. and dance. Blood on the Cat’s Neck Sat 9pm; Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Reial Monestir de Santa Maria Teatre Lliure (Sala Fabià Sun 7.30pm. Nov 28-Dec 5. €10. Joan Antoni Samaranch de Pedralbes Puigserver) New theatre company Trap Door (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46/Pl. Theatre International presents this Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 292 53 Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. Margarida Xirgu, 1). M: Espanya (L1, absurdist play written in the ’70s – 79. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, public Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm; Sat, Sun 10am- L3) & Poble Sec (L3) T. 93 289 27 it explores how an alien might holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed 5pm. Closed Mon. €4.40. Reduced: 70. www.teatrelliure.com regard Earth and its inhabitants. Mon (except public holidays). €5.10. €3.10. First Sunday of month, and Students: €3.20. Under-7s and over- every Sunday from 3pm, free entry. Vilafranca. Un dinar de Festa Major 65s: free. Nov 5-29. Wed-Fri 8.30pm; Sat Permanent exhibition Murals 5.30pm, 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15-€29. Dance Permanent exhibition Explore under the magnifying glass – Third part of trilogy on Catalan KPFGRVJVJGYQTNFUQHURQTVCPF paintings from Sant Miquel Chapel. identity. In Catalan. English and the Olympic Games. Permanent exhibition Plants, Spanish surtitles at Sat 9pm show Fundació Catalunya–La Pedrera remedies and apothecaries – the (from Nov 14). (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, Museu Picasso monastery’s medieval garden. L5). T. 902 202 138. (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). Teatre Poliorama T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; Recinte Modernista. Fundació (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Novembre Nov 5. 8pm. €7. Part of Thu 9am-9.30pm. €14 (combined Privada Hospital de Sant Pau . 66+EMGVQHƁEG ‘Dansa ara’ season. Three dancers ticket for museum + temporary (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Tue-Fri from 5pm. Sat, Sun from try to build a common space before exhibition). Collection only: €11. Sant Pau–Dos de Maig (L5). Mon-Fri 4pm until the start of the the arrival of bad weather. Temporary exhibition only: €6.50. 10am-6.30pm; Sat, Sun, public performance. teatrepoliorama.com. Conversa ballada Nov 12. 8pm. €7. holidays 10am-2.30pm. Included Another ‘Dansa ara’ show, created Permanent exhibition More than with entry ticket. BITS. Tricicle Nov 6-29. Wed-Fri and performed by Sol Picó. 3,800 works from different periods 9pm; Sat 6.30pm, 9pm; Sun Joves ara Nov 19. 8pm. €7. The in Picasso’s life. Women of the World: Home and 6.30pm. €20-€32. Tricicle are a ƁPCNn&CPUCCTCoRGTHQTOCPEG Picasso and Reventós Until Jan 10, work in Barcelona UN International popular Catalan comedy trio who features young dance talents.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 53 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Food & Drink @RicardMartn Who says it’s rude to read at the table? After the restaurant-bookshop, the restaurant-publisher’s: the stylish publishing house Malpaso has opened an equally stylish Mexican restaurant. By Ricard Martín

enchiladas or tacos made with the care that a cuisine recognised by UNESCO deserves, this is the place for you. The €12 set lunch menu tends towards Mexiterranian fusion, but it’s free of pretensions, has all the right priorities, and offers excellent value for money. They have reliable desserts (the chef studied at Espai Sucre) and Mexican sandwiches for mid- morning snackage. Overhearing snippets of conversation about literature or design, instead of the bloody football, has a soothing effect. I point this out to the two editors. ‘We wanted to create a space for

It’s a covert book showroom – you can Malpaso. In Barcelona, this cute yet vaguely menacing moniker browse as (literally ‘bad step’ or ‘bad you eat crossing’) will always recall a bygone – and sticky-floored – dive authors, editors and other bar just off Plaça Reial. In more professionals from the world of recent times, it’s an impeccably publishing,’ says one, Julián stylish publishing house with a Viñuales, ‘and people who work bent for pop culture and heterodox here get a discount.’ Malcolm essays, which unearths little- Otero, the other, says they plan to known gems by authors from Neil close the circle with a bookshop Gaiman to Kingsley Amis. across the road, where they’ll hold And now Malpaso is also the exhibitions and concerts. ‘The publisher’s (Mexican) restaurant, restaurant is a covert showroom,’ practically next door. ‘If people says Viñuales. ‘You can casually want to label us, they can call us GIMÉNEZ IVAN PHOTOS: leaf through a book, and, with a bit Mexican,’ says Salvador Barba, the books, displayed on a shelf for standards such as the crunchy luck, you’ll end up buying it.’ (Mexican) restaurant manager, who diners to browse as they eat, and maize tortilla soup (ideal hangover Mexican food is heavy on sauces explains the project was ‘inspired buy if they want. So far, so cool – food), alongside outstanding – if you get a stain on a book, do you by the old French publishing but is the food any good? dishes of their own invention, like have to pay? ‘No! It’s not a trick to houses, where all the different Well, yes, it is. The chef, Eduardo the Moctezuma tuna (a fish barely sell more!’ They laugh. But they’re parts of the business coexisted in González, hails from Mexico City, known in Mexico), coated in spices considering offering a discount on the editor’s own home’. It doesn’t and tells me that at first they and breadcrumbs, with pico de your lunch if you buy a book. look like Mexican – more wanted to do ‘food from gallo (the classic fresh chopped Scandinavian, pristine and angular. everywhere’, but in the end they salad with chilli and lime), avocado MALPASO In fact, the multicolour touch chose to make it ‘100 percent and minty sauce (see photo). Be Girona, 59 (Eixample Dret). comes from the covers of their Mexican’. On the menu you’ll find that as it may, if you want authentic T. 93 461 30 60. Around €25.

54 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com

BAR OF THE MONTH 6JGƁTUV 

Abadal Picapoll 2014 DO Pla de Bages. 13%.

Antoni Gaudí said ‘to do anything, it’s first essential to have love – technique comes later’, and that concept is exemplified in this wine. An emblem of the Abadal winery, this was the first wine made using only the native picapoll grape variety. Overlooked until recently,

IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN it’s found its place and is now regarded as a great grape. Picapoll’s 2014 vintage Bodega Carol has a new image to celebrate winning a gold  OGCVUVJG[oXGQRVGFHQTƁTUVENCUU and the tables out on the terrace. medal at the Concours Spanish ibericos. Don’t be put off A record from the late Catalan Mondial de Bruxelles. Aragó, 558 (Clot). by the shabby appearance of the performer Joan Capri is on display, Unique, quiet, sunny Tue-Thu 9.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm; premises (which is actually one of and a bottle of wine hangs on and seductive, it’s pale Fri 9.30am-11.30pm; Sat its charms) – this tavern has a lot the toilet door. yellow with a range of 11.30am-11.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. more spirit and good food than all Bodega Carol is the tops. It notes including of Barcelona’s designer venues put welcomes neighbourhood apricot, grapefruit, If you like cheese more than sex, together. I’m not exaggerating. The residents of all ages, and is a living jasmine and hints VJGƁTUVVJKPIVJCVYKNNECVEJ[QWT brains behind this incarnation of example of the classic Barcelona of pineapple. eye in this place is the row of Bodega Carol have more than their gypsy tavern. It’s also replete with Ample, satiny and creamy slabs lined up next to the fair share of common sense. They something that’s sorely missing in refreshing, this bar under transparent covers. took an old bar full of personality this city: a sense of humour –viz. original wine has Bodega Carol has a great cheese and, rather than going mad with the thousands of keyrings hanging body and heart. selection, although you need to be changes, decided to keep its on the walls. And, most important, –Meritxell careful with the queso apestoso de charming nature as a workers’ it’s best to go there when you’re Falgueras Huelva (‘stinky cheese from hangout intact. And they nailed it. A hungry to take full advantage of all Huelva’). But if you can pull yourself few minutes from Encants metro they have to offer. –Òscar Broc away to check out the blackboard, station, Carol is an entertaining Buy your it’s a whole other story – meatballs, pile of tiles, bricks and wood. FOOTNOTE While there, why not bottle at Vila cecina de toro (dried meat from the Barrels are converted into put a song on the jukebox. And if Viniteca (Agullers, 7) Spanish region of Castilla y León), tables, giant bottles of wine sit you like Carol’s style, try sister for €9.95 croquettes and any number of pork high up, and cheap vino on tap. bar, Bodega Montferry, at Violant products; for their range of cured Glasses of Estrella beer fill the bar d’Hongria, 105 (Sants). La Rambla – getting better and better

Recently opened on La Rambla, most famous street, as well as an honey allioli (garlic mayonnaise), and well worth a look, is this impressively extensive timetable. squid with kimchi sauce (a Korean cocktail bar and restaurant. It’s The doors open at 9am, and the dish made using spicy pickled owned by the Grup Lombardo, kitchen is then in operation cabbage), and grilled lamb from whose other enterprise, Ajoblanco non-stop until 3am. Its lengthy Castilla. To top it all off, the (Tuset, 20, a few minutes from menu is firmly Mediterranean – it cocktail list is foolproof. As at Avinguda Diagonal), opened a features select products from Ajoblanco, they’ve meticulously couple of years ago and quickly across the Iberian Peninsula, with produced a bar that mixes classic established itself as a tapas and a varied range of protected recipes with creations that they’ve cocktail bar with both style and designation of origin meats, and developed in-house. substance. Riding on the back of fish from local markets. Among that success, Ultramarinos is the standout dishes you’ll find rich ULTRAMARINOS their latest venture and has a flavours such as bunyols de Rambla dels Caputins, 31. privileged position on Barcelona’s bacallà (fried cod fritters) with T. 93 270 23 81. Around €25.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 55 Food & Drink

Cafè de l’Acadèmia MARIA DIAS

 of bacallà (salt cod), in all its myriad varieties. Lledó, 1 (Gòtic). For our first course we shared T. 93 319 82 53. P: €30-€35. several dishes, and although we were hungry, no knives were raised I’ve wanted to talk about Cafè de in anger. Esqueixada de bacallà l’Acadèmia for a while. It’s a (cold shredded salt cod salad) with restaurant that’s become an rosemary, savoury millefeuille with institution in the Barri Gòtic, and langoustines and vegetables, that had the courage to be a toasted sandwiches with duck foie pioneer at a time before the city’s gras and black truffles, and open current gastronomic bonanza, omelettes of salt cod and leeks. when there were far fewer tourists Eight dishes between thirteen, waiting to leap from cruise ships which left us room for the main like ravenous tigers. course, and the food was definitely I admit it had been two years a match for the conversation. since I had last paid a visit. For a I ordered roast guinea fowl with twice-divorced father, time is a apples and aromatic herbs. The vanishingly rare commodity, but meat was tender and deliciously this time I went with 12 others, flavoured. Lacking the strength to with the aim of trying to order pudding, I decided to understand the politics of our own dedicate my remaining energy to country. There’s nothing better politics. We didn’t solve the than a good meal to smooth out country’s problems, but at least we ideological differences, much tried. –Daniel Vázquez Sallés more so if the chosen eatery looks great too. The food at Cafè de l’Acadèmia THE BILL is based on classic Catalan cuisine, but this isn’t a failing as (For 13) long as it’s well-executed. I won’t 2 esqueixades ...... €29.00 describe all 12 dishes ordered by 2 savoury millefeuille...... €25.20 the other diners, but I will mention 2 foie gras toasted three recipes I was left wanting to sandwiches ...... €29.00 try: lasagne made with two 2 leek & salt cod omelettes . €24.70 Catalan sausages, the hearty 1 roast guinea fowl ...... €13.40 botifarra de perol and black 2 Montsant wines...... €39.00 botifarra negra; grilled foie gras and grape risotto; and salt cod TOTAL (inc VAT) ...... €183.30 with caramelised tomatoes and a mousse of baked garlic with Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink saffron. It’s worth knowing that at critics review anonymously and l’Acadèmia they are past masters pay their own bills.

56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com +PVQVJGƁTG

serves both spaces. On your pizza try the topping that matches paprika-spiced sobrassada sausage with Argentinian chimichurri sauce – unmissable. Initially they thought the two spaces should be independent, each with its own specialities, but the smart option is to mix and match, without differentiating between what comes from Chicha and what from Limoná. On my most recent visit I DANNY CAMINAL/EL PERIÓDICO DANNY concentrated on the menu. Burgués insisted I try the chicken croquette: crunchy breadcrumbs, If life gives you Limoná… dense filling, faultless. The diced salmon with tzatziki was a crowd- 6JGCTTKXCNQHOWNVKRWTRQUGURCEG%JKEJC.KOQP½EQPƁTOUVJGTKUG  pleaser. The cumin bread with of Passeig de Sant Joan as a foodie destination. By Pau Arenós escalivada (marinated roast pepper and aubergine), feta and The street of Passeig de Sant breakfasts, afternoon snacks, The first time I was there I took basil was excellent. (Another day, I Joan is getting interesting. The aperitifs, lunches and dinners – note of products with attitude: tried the pagès loaf with pumpkin, temptation is to compare it to and cocktails. Let no eatery be natural wines from Cuvée 3000, blue cheese and walnuts.) I other areas dominated by beards without its bartender! The name tinned seafood from Espinaler, finished up with the spicy glazed and skinny trousers rolled to the comes from the saying ‘Ni chicha, coffee from Nomad, bread from pork rib – vacuum-cooked meat ankle, and trot out the hackneyed ni limonada’ (‘neither one thing Cloudstreet. Then I discovered more tender than one of formula: Sant Joan is the new nor the other’), and space and that dessert restaurant Espai grandma’s kisses. Among other Sant Antoni. The reality is that, creative talent come together to Sucre was helping in an advisory hits on the set lunch menu are after extended roadworks that offer something for everyone. The role. A little later someone told chicken cannelloni, orange and were more invasive than swarms €12 set lunch menu is a bona fide me the owner was Víctor Burgués, sardine salad, and tuna with of mosquitoes, the new boulevard BMB (Best Menú in Barcelona). along with his partner, Sara teriyaki sauce. One dish that allows you to die a happy death Reixach. Burgués studied needs retiring, because of its under the wheels of the modern, international relations, has an indeterminate flavour, is rice with sustainable and universally WHAT ELSE? export company and exclusive squid. But the desserts! Mojito applauded bikes charging up and rights to British juice brand sorbet, brioche with vanilla ice down it. Nicely appointed Look out for: Belvoir, but he’d wanted to be a cream, and cheesecake with a restaurants and bars are popping The interior design, by Antique chef since he was small. Ah, the strawberry soup. All for €12. up along Sant Joan and on nearby Boutique. dreaded vocation. For the time Full marks, but the impractical streets: Granja Petitbó, Vivant Recommended for: being he’s the owner and an little dishes have to go – they’re and Chicha Limoná. The Mitte Those who like a little bit of occasional waiter, with maître d’ neither one thing or the other. gallery has closed down, but it everything. Norman Mata running the two looks like there’ll be a bar where Stay away if: dining rooms. There’s a genuine CHICHA LIMONÁ Halley sandwich shop used to be. You’re not a fan of areas in a chef, Mexican Rodrigo Nieto, plus Pg. de Sant Joan, 80 (Eixample Open since June, Chicha state of change. pizza chef Pere Gibert. The Dret). T. 93 277 64 03. Limoná is two separate spaces pizzeria is on the Limoná side of €15-€20 (excl. wine). Set lunch that get intensive use: late the restaurant, although the oven menu: €12.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 57 Food & Drink

ESCUDELLA ONION SOUP BARREJADA Allegedly a This trad Catalan favourite among soup is a big hungover old mix of Parisian meat, bones, bohemians, you vegetables, don’t need to rice, noodles be in such a and more. Try state to enjoy it at La Cuina it at the classic del Guinardó Brasseria Flo (Varsòvia, 148). (Jonqueres, 10). IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

GOULASH SOPA DE Warm yourself GALETS up with this Another local flavourful, spicy speciality, this dish, which one has large is enriched pasta shells by meat and (galets) in a paprika. tasty broth. Hungaryto The one at (Aragó, 353) Ca l’Estevet is the place in (Valldonzella, town for it. 46) is delicious. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN MARIA DIAS It’s all in the bowl For perfect autumn comfort food, you can’t go far wrong with hot soup – and in $CTEGNQPC[QWoNNƁPFNQECNCPFKPVGTPCVKQPCNTGEKRGU$[Ricard Martín

CALDO RAMEN GALLEGO This Japanese In this Galician noodle soup is recipe, floury where it’s at in potatoes are Barcelona at key – greens, the moment. cured meats Find authentic and beans also varieties, such feature. Escairón as miso and (Fontrodona, 5) soya ramen, at makes a well- Ramen-Ya Hiro priced version. (Girona, 164).

COCIDO OLLA ASTURIANO GITANA Hailing from While this soup the Asturias is usually as region of Spain, shown, replete cocido’s main with meat, ingredients are at Florentina white beans and (Saragossa, pork products. 122) you’ll Furacu (Girona, discover a rare 52) serves a veggie-friendly great one. take on it. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

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and wonderfully comfortable. Catalan cuisine Còrsega, 200. T. 93 453 20 20. 7 portes M: Hospital Clínic (L5) The eponymous seven doors open on to as many dining salons, all Bar Velódromo kitted out in elegant 19th-century This classic serves quality dishes décor. Long-aproned waiters bring from early morning until the wee TGIKQPCNFKUJGUKPENWFKPICƁUJ[ hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the zarzuela stew with half a lobster, a city’s cooking maestros) at the FKHHGTGPVRCGNNCFCKN[ UJGNNƁUJHQT helm, they produce an endless example, or rabbit and snails), a succession of dishes and tapas wide array of fresh seafood, and that will teach you about heavier dishes such as herbed Catalonia’s gastronomic heritage. black-bean stew with pork The full menu is available all day, so sausage, and orujo sorbet to if you fancy some Iberian ham at ƁPKUJ4GUGTXCVKQPUCTGCXCKNCDNG 7am or a croissant for a midnight only for certain tables; otherwise, snack, just say so. get there early. Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 Passatge Isabel II, 14. 60 22. T. 93 319 30 33. Don’t go M: Hospital Clínic (L5) M: Barceloneta (L4) hungry. Book restaurants at Casa Lepoldo Agut timeout.com/ Rosa Gil, the heart and barcelona Barcelona has a wealth of soul of this lovely eateries that have eatery, has carried out a improved over the years. Many veritable revolution here, are back on the map after having and with excellent results. The been forgotten, and some have the cuisine has improved – which is added bonus of having modernised really saying something. They have without going over the top, to catch two standout dishes: the capipota up with the demand for the quality (literally ‘head and foot’, a delicacy products that their clients want. made from pork) and the oxtail. One such case is Agut. Sant Rafael, 24. Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. T. 93 441 30 14. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) M: Paral·lel (L2,L3)

Freixa Tradició The return of Josep Maria Freixa to Wine bars his family home, now that his son Ramón has gone off to enjoy fame Can Cisa/Bar Brutal in Madrid, has resulted This restored neighbourhood bar in a real celebrationof traditional combines a classic bodega at the cuisine: pig’s trotters with prunes entrance with a wine bar at the CPFRKPGPWVUEWVVNGƁUJYKVJ back. They stock 300 wines, all CTVKEJQMGUCPFRGTJCRUVJGƁPGUV from organic or bio-dynamic macaroni in Barcelona. producers around the world (so no Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. nasty chemicals or additives), at M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) accessible prices. Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. Restaurant Gaig M: Jaume I (L4) It’s currently all the rage for Barna’s top chefs to set up more-affordable Casa Mariol offshoots, and this one is under At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, which the guiding hand of Carles Gaig. is part of the bodega of the same His approach in this restaurant, as name, you’ll have the chance to get in his other ventures, is a return to to know suau, which is a version of grandmotherly Catalan basics, and a drink (a blend of soda and coffee) the favourite dish here is the that was popular in the Ribera de canelons – hearty, steaming tubes l’Ebre region decades ago. You can QHRCUVCƁNNGFYKVJUJTGFFGFDGGH also taste cask wines from the and topped with a fragrant Ebre, accompanied by a nice clotxa béchamel. The various dining (bread stuffed with herring, onions, rooms manage to be both modern tomatoes and garlic), and then top

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 59 Food & Drink it all off with delicious cakes from Batea (a town also in the Ebre). CHICKEN GOES GOURMET Tapas Rosselló, 442. T. 93 436 76 28. Bar del Pla M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) Positioned somewhere between a French bistro and a tapas bar, Bar Bar Nostàlgic del Pla serves tapas and small Although located in the fashionable plates (divine pig’s trotters with Sant Antoni market area, this bar foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). does not mimic the Nordic Drinks include Mahou on tap (a aesthetic of most new local ƁPGDGGTVJCVoUQHVGPKIPQTGFJGTG establishments. They serve a good because it’s from Madrid), plus selection of wines, particularly some good wines by the glass. from Catalonia, plus they have cold Montcada, 2. beer on tap and an impressive list T. 93 268 30 03. of gins, malt whiskies and special M: Jaume I (L4) rums. Gin and tonics, spritz... they make it all, including tapas to El Jabalí

please even the most sybaritic MARIA DIAS This deli bar, which is reminiscent palates. of Av. Paral·lel in its heyday, is a Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2) great place to eat wonderful tapas El Pagès, Creative Chicken – try the patatas bravas, the Magatzem Escolà We all know that chicken can be a bit ‘meh’, but at this spot chicken salad and the cured It looks like a hoarder’s paradise of in the newly opened Mercat del Ninot, they serve top-quality sausage – while sipping on good wine bottles, but the shop’s staff birds prepared in delicious variations – croquettes, burgers wine. It’s also a nice place to sit know exactly where everything is. on the terrace and do some ;QWoNNƁPFCITGCVXCTKGV[QH and canelons, the Catalan take on Italian cannelloni. serious people watching. products, which is the result of a Mercat del Ninot, Mallorca, 157 (Eixample Esquerre). Ronda Sant Pau, 15. company that really knows its T. 93 441 10 82. business and has spent more than M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) half a century dedicated to wine Rías de Galicia atmosphere and noisy, cheerful distribution. Keep a lookout for their This restaurant is the setting for waiters. Book a table if you’re going Tapas 24 wine tasting and cocktail events. the Iglesias family’s wonderful at the weekend. Another nu-trad tapas bar Comercial, 13. TGNCVKQPUJKRYKVJVJGƁPGUV Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. focusing on quality produce. T. 93 167 26 55. seafood. The menu includes M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Among the oxtail stews, fried M: Barceloneta (L4) Cantabrian lobster with garlic, John prawns and cod croquettes, Dory and txangurro crab La Bricciola however, fans of chef Carles Monvínic cannelloni. And when it’s in A real Italian trattoria with good #DGNNCPYKNNCNUQƁPFRNC[HWN This is one of the largest season, they have the exquisite pizzas and fantastic pasta. snacks more in keeping with his information centres for wine not Bordeaux lamprey. Features a good wine list and some signature style. The McFoie only in Europe but the world over. Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. great Italian grappa. Burger is an exercise in fast-food It’s also a wine bar and restaurant. M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. heaven, as is the bikini, a small The latter – which focuses on M: Mercat Nou (L1) version of his take on the ham- traditional cuisine with a creative Tabarca Langosta’s Club and-cheese toastie. touch – is excellent, by the way. Tino Martínez, sailor and chef Murivecchi Diputació, 269. Diputació, 249. extraordinaire, has opened an This restaurant-trattoria is a T. 93 488 09 77. T. 93 272 61 87. unusual restaurant in Barcelona direct relative of Un Posto al Sol M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) M: Universitat (L1,L2) specialising in lobster: he has in C/Urgell, and they both make recovered the recipes of the lobster really good pizzas. La Tieta ƁUJGTOGPHTQOVJGKUNCPFQH Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. Chickpeas with prawns, potato Seafood Tabarca, and he does so with a M: Jaume I (L4) omelette, mushrooms with garlic menu that includes lobster and rice and parsley, amazing olives – the Els Pescadors cooked in the lobster stock. Piazze d’Italia problem is knowing where to Josep Maulini and his wife have Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. A temple of southern Italian cuisine start. La Tieta offers good wine turned this into a lovely spot, M: Universitat (L1,L2) with an innovative and provocative (no classics, just what takes their combining antique furniture with twist. The pizza chef makes the fancy that week), bottles of modern décor, and retaining its air dough spin and dance above his XGTOQWVJCPFCPGPFNGUUƂQYQH of a small-town bar. One delicious Pizza ƁPIGTVKRUDGHQTGVTCPUHQTOKPIKV draught beer, while the food is recommendation: grilled sardines into an outstanding crust. Try their good traditional fare made from in sauce, though they don’t always La Bella Napoli sweet Nutella pizza, which is fresh ingredients, with skill and have them. Rice dishes are a staple There can be few Barcelona completely over the top but not to enthusiasm. on the menu, and never disappoint. residents who haven’t tried the be missed. Blai, 1. Plaça Prim, 1. wonderful pizzas served in this Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. T. 93 186 35 95. T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) place with an authentic Italian M: Rocafort (L1) M: Paral·lel (L2,L3)

60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] LGBT @itramselas The art of making women move MORE WOMEN’S NIGHTS If there’s a star on Barcelona’s lesbian nightlife scene, that person is Lady Chus, the doyenne of DJs. By Cristina Carbonell

weren’t any big events happening, and then people suggested I do Nextownladys. It was a hit from the start and lasted for years. What’s more, we were pioneers in organising monthly parties in Barcelona. In 2007 we launched the Whip Lesbian Party, which was TARANTINA actually weekly for a while. At the Saturday night cocktail party where end of 2009, we created Lolitas, a boys are welcome, as long as musical bar for women. Nowadays, they’re in female company. Starting as well as Nenis, a disco for women with a show, the venue later turns and friends every Saturday, I work into a dance floor where you can do with the Winner Festival, an annual your thing till 3am. Aribau, 132. festival of female football and music with DJs from across Spain, and the Las Vecinas del Cuarto parties at Otto Zutz club.

You’re one of the most experienced DJs in the sector. I’ve been a DJ for 22 years, and the most established on the lesbian scene since the creation of Nextownladys; I was resident DJ at those parties. Now I’m one of the residents of the Girlie Circuit LA MELON Festival, the most important There’s a Melon party every month lesbian festival in the world, as well or so (usually the first Saturday), as of the monthly Girlicious parties. aimed at young lesbians just starting to go out and eager to have What music do you play? fun. Sala Upload, Poble Espanyol, Currently I’m playing house, tech- Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13. house, electro-house, deep- house... it depends a lot on the session and the place I’m playing.

Your experience gives you a long

IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN perspective on the city’s lesbian nightlife. How do you think it’s Lady Chus (pictured at Sabadell La Tarantina, Las Vecinas del changed in the last 20 years? Art Museum in front of a work by Cuarto, el Nenis... These are the We’ve gone from having Barcelona artist Werens) has been most recent, but you’ve been clandestine venues, where you DJing for 22 years, and it’s been organising regular soirées for a had to knock on the door and they 12 since she organised the city’s while. When did you start and looked at you through a peephole first monthly party for women. It what motivated you to get going? before opening it, to discos where STUPENDA was such a success she’s been My trajectory on the club circuit is thousands of women go without On the first Thursday of every constantly reinventing it ever long, but in terms of the lesbian any sense of shame for the fact of month, the Classic disco of the since. She created the Saturday scene, I started on March 24, being lesbians. Arena group hosts this party night night Nenis event and is resident 2004, when I did the first for women. It includes screenings, DJ at one of the most popular Nextownladys party. I was going to Lady Chus posts info about her a ‘message game’, gifts and a parties in Barcelona. women’s bars and I saw there sessions at ladychus.com striptease. Diputació, 233.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn

think sonic landscapes from What So Not, the chameleon-like Jarreau Vandal, and local electronic pop talent Desert DJs – and that was just in October. This month Trill marks its second anniversary with a special weekend event on Friday 13 (don’t take that as a bad omen) and Saturday 14 in among the regular Saturday night/Sunday morning sessions. Topping the bill is Baauer, the US trap and bass producer who struck gold with his 2012 hit ‘Harlem Shake’, memorable not least for the lion growls that infuse the track. At just BAAUER HERMITUDE 26, Baauer has already been making music for half his life, although it’s in the past three years that his star has really

Baauer played Sónar in 2013. They called him the phenomenon of the year begun to shine. In 2013 he performed at Barcelona’s all- conquering electronic festival, BASENJI FERNANDITO KITKAT Sónar. They called him ‘the phenomenon of the year’. Also appearing at Trill’s birthday celebrations will be Australian Innovative vibes Basenji, who arrives fresh from his first US tour. If you’re not in town Celebrating its second anniversary this month, club night Trill basks that weekend, this month Trill also in the most creative side of music. By Hannah Pennell hosts Wizard, a UK act who apprenticed in old-school hip hop Look up the word trill, and the combination of true and real, two years a long roll call of acts with his older brother before internet (our inescapable go-to whose etymology is generally has appeared. expanding into trap and forging his encyclopaedia these days) will credited to a hip hop DJ called Sir Take as an example Kali, who own, experimental way; Sydney throw up a variety of options. Trill. He says it means ‘to be true to played at Trill this summer. A duo Hermitude who won a 2012 There’s the Star Trek species that in one’s self and real with all’. Persian producer and DJ based in Australian Music Prize for the some cases had a symbiont living Trill the club night, which Berlin, she started performing album Hyper Paradise; and local inside them that would pass from launched in November 2013, under her given name, Maral boy Fernandito KitKat who gets humanoid host to humanoid host. describes itself as ‘SoundCloud Salmassi, but assumed a new the dance floors going with Yikes – those strange new worlds, IRL’. A live version of the online identity when she moved into what reggaeton and dancehall mixes. GJ!6JGPVJGTGoUVJGFGƁPKVKQPQH audio sharing platform that has she calls ‘Bolly-Tech’. This Keep it true and real. trill as a quavering or vibrating millions of users, a place to combination of trap, hip hop, funk UQWPF#PFƁPCNN[YGEQOGVQYJCV discover new sounds, mixes and and ghetto-tech is influenced by TRILL is every Saturday from is, presumably, the description that inspirations, is a notion that Bollywood and the music of the midnight at Sala Razzmatazz inspired the people behind appeals to music makers from Maghreb. Eclectic, exciting, (Almogàvers, 122). Barcelona’s Trill club night – a around the world and in the past energising. Trill epitomised. Or www.salarazzmatazz.com

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SWEET!

Churros con Chocolate One of Barcelona’s coolest monthly parties, this free event (until midnight strikes, when you’ll have to pay €10. But seriously, no one gets there then) is the best way to cheer up a dark Sunday afternoon – music, food, give aways and more. Arrive early. Apolo, Sunday 8, 6pm.

obsessive fans, all under the Sessions watchful eye of MC, US comedian and actor, Rachel Arieff. Nasty Mondays Sidecar Factory Club (details Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price the city’s wildest Monday night includes one drink. party. Miss it at your peril. Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Cupcake 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon Take a trip down memory lane midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 without forgetting to live in the (advance). moment, with hits from the ’70s right up to the present day. Raw Rebels Sala Apolo (details above). Thu Dance to the best beats of the 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local (advance). Price includes one drink. and international DJs, in the heart of the city. The Bus Music Club Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, Session celebrating non- 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. commercial, non-mainstream €5. Price includes one drink. and underground music. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). Caníbal Sound M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. System €15 (on the door). €13 (advance). Live acts, DJs and roots music Price includes one drink. make for an underground vibe at this long-running club night. Happy Techno Sala Apolo (details above). Wed The beat will get you at this 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 weekend party dedicated to new- (advance). Price includes one age and old-school dance music. drink. City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat Anti-Karaoke 12.30am. €12-€18 (depends on This is the hard rock version of arrival time and if you sign up on karaoke, with dressing up and guest list). Price includes one drink.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & bcnshop.com 63 Getaways Through the ages Festivals around the province of Barcelona this month celebrate historical traditions and ƁIWTGUCFGNKEKQWUUCWEGCPF68UJQYUPGYCPFQNF$[Nick Chapman

(KTC/GFKGXCNFo1ƁEKU 1 EGTGOQP[QHVCRRKPIVJGƁTUVYKPG Woodsmoke wafting through kegs, ‘aixetonar’ in Catalan. narrow stone streets, stalls Vilanova i la Geltrú, November 29. selling traditional produce, www.vilanovaturisme.cat/en/home livestock, craftspeople at work, and the sound of pipes and drums (KTCFoGP4QECIWKPCTFC as dancers and jesters perform: Perot Rocaguinarda was one of the for one weekend in November, the bandolers Catalans – bandits who old town of Súria, in the Bagès operated all over the country in the county, is transported back in time 16th and 17th centuries. He was a to its medieval past. The festival 4QDKP*QQFsNKMGƁIWTGYJQUG is a celebration of ancient crafts legendary exploits are celebrated and trades, with demonstrations every year in Olost, in the Lluçanes of glass-blowing, pottery and region, with re-creations of street woodcarving, while the town’s life during the heyday of the main square becomes a stage 2 3 bandolers, and battles between for folk dances and concerts. local warring factions. More than a There’s also an interactive street highwayman, Rocaguinarda led a theatre performance, with roving private army secretly specially composed music and employed by local aristocrats in choreography, imagining the their internecine squabbles. The discovery of the nearby salt festival includes an interactive mines in medieval times. exhibition that brings to life the Súria, November 14-15. bandit’s legacy in popular culture www.suriaturisme.cat and literature – including his walk- on part in Don Quixote. (GUVKXCNFGN:CVÏ Olost, November 8. www.olost.cat Almonds, hazelnuts, breadcrumbs, vinegar, garlic, 1. (KTC/GFKGXCNFo1ƁEKU 

www.barcelonaismuchmore.com

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PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE L-R): TONI BATET / PIROS EXPLORER / JAUME MONTANÉ ROS MONTANÉ EXPLORER / JAUME / PIROS BATET (CLOCKWISE L-R): TONI PHOTOS

The animal kingdom up close Catalan’s fauna is rich, varied and accesible – if you know where to look. By Nick Chapman

In Barcelona city centre, it’s hard to a common sight in the Parc Pyrenees, and it’s the believe you’re only a couple of Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany starting point for guided hours from pristine natural de Sant Maurici – you may even walking tours through the landscapes with an extraordinary spot them trotting above the tree bear’s favourite habitats. If range of wildlife. Catalonia has 18 line from the banks of Sant Maurici you’re lucky you may even Natural Parks, each providing lake itself. Legend has it that ‘Els see their prints. For sheer numbers and natural habitats for a different Encantats’, the park’s famous From mountain giants to the guaranteed sightings, the Parc range of species. They can be as double peak, is two chamois IKCPVUQHVJGUGCVJGƁPYJCNGs Natural del Delta de l’Ebre is hard easy to spot as the thousands of hunters, magically turned to stone. also known as the common rorqual to beat. As well as hundreds of migratory birds in the Delta de The most spectacular large – is the second-largest animal thousands of migratory birds, l’Ebre, or as elusive as the brown mammal in the Pyrenees must species in the world, growing up to the permanent residents of the bears of the high Pyrenees. be the brown bear. Hunted to 25m in length. In spring they can be park’s wetlands include herons, Grab your binoculars and set out near-extinction in the 20th century, seen off the coast of the Parc ƂCOKPIQGUCXQEGVUCPFDKVVGTPU on an adventure! Tripping lightly conservation efforts began when Natural de Cap de Creus, gorging With the chance to see 330 of over the steepest screes and three bears were re-introduced into QPUJGNNƁUJCUVJG[OCMGVJGKTYC[ Europe’s 600 bird species at UPQYƁGNFUVJGEJCOQKUKUVJGMKPI the French Pyrenees from Slovenia to the Ligurian Sea. To spot them different times of year, one visit of the high mountain slopes. A in 1996. Since then the population from land you’ll need binoculars can take you from novice relative of the goat and the has grown and there are now and a lot of patience – look out for ornithologist to advanced twitcher, antelope, with backward-tilting around 15 bears, breeding the telltale clouds of spray when with a respectable list of horns and a white-and-black successfully and roaming over vast they surface to blow. For close-up sightings. stripped face, herds of chamois are areas. Casa de l’Ós Bru, at Isil in sightings, take a boat tour from the Parc Natural de l’Alt Pirineu is Roses, with the chance to spot http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/en the only bear study centre in the dolphins and other marine wildlife. @parcscat

www.catalunya.com

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Top Ten their feathers there may be 1 UVTGUUGFQXGTN[NGCPƂGUJ Canelons trufats Ca l’Isidre (Les Flors, 12) is the 6[RKECN restaurant of choice for this dish 7 QHECPGNNQPKYKVJVTWHƂG9JKNG Una de quart Rossini cannelloni have foie dishes Before Barcelona bakeries were gras, because that’s how the invaded by baguettes and walnut eponymous composer liked rolls, locals bought una de quart, them, Barcelona’s high-end a long 250g loaf (un quart is ‘a version of the Italian recipe quarter’, in this case of a kilo), HGCVWTGUGKVJGTDNCEMVTWHƂGQT perfect for sandwiches and the next-best ingredient the cook FKRRKPIKPNGHVQXGTUCWEGU6TWG ECPCHHQTF bread lovers would buy una de mig CJCNHMKNQNQCH  2 Rajola de xocolata 8 Maestro chocolatier Enric Rovira Vermut created this choccy bar featuring Having a vermouth is a tradition Barcelona’s famous paving tiles enjoying a comeback in (rajoles), and it’s now an elegant $CTEGNQPC6JGTGCTGVYQ UQWXGPKTEJQKEGKPCXWNICTYQTNF versions – one that sees the Rovira may have to do the same aperitif accompanied by quality with the tiles on the renovated conserved foods, and the other #X&KCIQPCNKHVJG[GXGTNQQMNKMG D[ETGCVKXGVCRCU2QDNGUGECPF VJG[oTGDGEQOKPICNQECNKEQP 3 Gràcia are favourite spots to savour this pre-lunch custom that helps locals head off happily 3 VQ5WPFC[NWPEJYKVJVJGHCOKN[ Tortell de nata 9JGP5WPFC[UYGTG5WPFC[U the biggest discussion among 9 well-to-do local families was Pastís de Barcelona whether lunch would include a 6JKUECMGYKVJOCT\KRCPJQPG[ dessert of tortell de nata (ring apples and walnuts was created cream cake) or braç de gitano HQTVJG1N[ORKE)COGU E[NKPFTKECNURQPIGECMGƁNNGF However, it didn’t take with local YKVJETGCO 6JKUYCUCNQPIVKOG DCMGTUCPF[QWoNNPQNQPIGTƁPFKV ago, when the sea was bluer and COQPIVJGKTYCTGU+VoURQUUKDNG EJGHUYGTGNGUUKPXGPVKXG to make it at home, although it ECPDGCDKVQHCOKUUKQP+H[QW want to give it a go, you will, of 4 2 EQWTUGƁPFVJGTGEKRGQPNKPG Xurros Yes, we know they’re from Madrid, but sometimes good VJKUYJKVGƁUJCPFMPQYJQYVQ 10 habits can be imported – there make sure it isn’t too salty and Bolets aren’t many Barcelona residents VJGDGUVYC[VQEQQMKV6JKUECP 6JGYKNFOWUJTQQOU bolets) at who haven’t desperately looked be done in many ways, including VJG2GVT¼UUVCNNKP.C$QSWGTKC for a place selling the long, oven-baked (a la llauna) or au market are probably the best- deep-fried doughnuts after a big gratin with allioli ICTNKEOC[Q  known in Barcelona, but you’ll PKIJVQWV$QVJOQDKNGCPFƁZGF ƁPFDQNGVUKPCNNEKV[HQQF xurreries (xurro vendors) are markets, to the joy of those who HQWPFCETQUUVJGEKV[ 6 CFQTGVJGUGCWVWOPCNVTGCVU+H Colomins you prefer, you can head out to 9GVTWN[DGNKGXGVJGEKV[oU the countryside to go foraging, 5 pigeons (colomins) are but don’t expect any help from Bacallà WPFGTWUGF$CTEGNQPCKUHWNNQH local mushroom hunters who Cod (bacallà) is very popular in them and they can be a real MGGRVJGNQECVKQPQHVJGKTƁPFUC Barcelona, and among the city’s FGNKECE[GURGEKCNN[KP(TCPEG UGETGVGXGPHTQONQXGFQPGU keepers of nostalgia are the Although perhaps the urban type 4 ƁUJOQPIGTUYJQURGEKCNKUGKP KUPQVKFGCN9GUWURGEVDGPGCVJ By Ada Castell

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