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08 Feature Unmissable artworks IVÁN MORENO IVÁN

08 Feature 22 Around Town A selection of Barcelona’s Run for your life! finest works of art 24 Arts 14 Food & Drink La Pedrera celebrates its Chefs find ways to beat the centenary recession 26 Nightlife 20 Shopping Pulling in at The Station Après Ski joins the Born’s creative boutiques 29 Listings

TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE Advertising Executives Nuria Diputació, 119 [email protected] Gómez ([email protected]), 93 202 95 95 www.barcelonaturisme.com Mercè Llubera www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Edited by 80 + 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Producer Sally Davies & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Printed by Bigsa Indústria Gràfica Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, DL B.21656-2012 Art director Diego Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, ISSN 2014-7546 Piccininno Eugènia Sendra Supported by Features and web editor Translations Maria José Gómez Nick Chapman

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Monthly planner Get out your diaries! We present just a handful of the cultural highlights of the month ahead.

Tuesday 06 Thursday 08 Sunday 18

LEGACY OF MARIZA FC BARÇA VS JACKSON POLLOCK The queen of fado SARAGOSSA Works from Pollock returns to the Palau Barcelona take on himself, and 50 de la Música as Zaragoza at Camp artists influenced part of the Jazz Nou in round 12 of by his work. Festival. La Liga. See p32 See p41 See p45

Monday 19 Wednesday 21

PATTI SMITH BUENA VISTA Here to promote SOCIAL CLUB her excellent new Featuring the album Banga in the magnificent Omara extravagantly Portuondo, as part ornate Palau de la of the Jazz Festival. Música. See p25 See p47 E. MAPPLETHORPE Wednesday 21 Friday 23 Wednesday 00

L’ALTERNATIVA FARRUQUITO The festival of A chance to see the independent controversial, cinema, now in its but indisputably 19th year. Until talented flamenco November 25 legend, Farruquito . See p46 See p47

Thursday 29 Friday 30

WORLD PRESS ELLEN ALLIEN PHOTO The Berlin-based Opening day of this minimal techno prestigious queen pays one of international her ever popular photography visits to the Sala exhibition. See p31 Apolo. See p49 SAMUEL ARANDA

4 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 5 The Hot Seat MUSEU EGIPCI Jordi Clos The president of the Museu Egipci is still passionate about an extraordinary civilisation. By Eugènia Sendra

Ancient Egypt and its art have owners. I have objects that fascinated you for a long time. belonged to Adolf Hitler’s I’m a great fan of culture and the propaganda chief, and a necklace arts, but the Egyptian collection is that once belonged to Rudolf what’s closest to my heart. My Valentino. interest started when I was 12, You defi ne the museum as ‘alive’. and at 19 I bought my fi rst piece. There’s a lot going on; we’re still The collection has allowed me to making new acquisitions. We’ve work in Egypt, and discover an created a diploma and master’s intact tomb from 1100 BC. degree in Egyptology, and we run Which of the museum’s 1,100 workshops for children. We want to pieces would you save from a fi re? pass on a sense of respect for We have several objects that would humanity’s cultural heritage. be hard to get hold of nowadays, In November the star of the show such as the stele of Cleopatra VII – will be Tutankhamon. many of these were destroyed in That’s right, we’re putting on an Alexandria, and if it had been exhibition to celebrate the 90th identifi ed sooner, it would probably anniversary of the discovery of his have ended up at the Louvre or the tomb by Howard Carter. British Museum. Or the fragments of bas-reliefs from the tomb of Iny, bought in London, Paris, New York 1,100 and Amsterdam. objects make up the collection, They’re objects with a story. from the pre-dynastic period to Yes, there’s the scientifi c story and the time of Cleopatra. the personal one, that of their

6 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 7 ART in BCN They’re not in the Prado, the Louvre or the MoMA: they’re masterpieces of world art and they’re right here in Barcelona. Joana Hurtado and Ricard Mas have picked ten works that no visitor to the city should miss. Photos Iván Moreno

Who leaves Paris without paying a To bring the story up to date, the visit on the Mona Lisa? And yet Museu d’Art Contemporani de plenty of people pass through Barcelona (MACBA) specialises in Barcelona without seeing the great Spanish and Catalan art created since Pantocrator of Taüll. The city may 1945. There’s also Can Framis, a not have anything on the scale of the brand new museum given over to the Louvre, but its many museums and Vila Casas Foundation’s collection of foundations contain works that bear contemporary art. In combination, comparison with the best in the these provide a general overview of world, and attract visitors from all Catalan art from its roots right up to over the world. the present day. The MNAC has one of the fi nest For anyone who wants a fuller collections of Romanesque art appreciation of 20th-century art, four anywhere, centring on spectacular of the greatest artists of the period – mural paintings dating from the 11th Picasso, Joan Miró, Antoni Tàpies to the 13th centuries. The murals and Joan Brossa – have strong were removed whole from churches connections to Barcelona, and each is around Catalonia between 1919 and represented by signifi cant collections 1923, to save them from damage or in the museums and foundations that looting, and carefully reconstructed bear their names. in the museum. The MNAC’s So as not to overwhelm you, we’ve stunning Gothic and Modernista narrowed down this ample fi eld to ten galleries, representing two of the of the best, focusing on painting and region’s richest and most interesting sculpture on display in permanent artistic periods, are no less collections. Barcelona’s museums impressive. If the MNAC’s Gothic concentrate on Catalan art, and this galleries leaves you wanting more, selection refl ects that tendency. These the Fundació Godia’s small but are the most representative works of remarkable medieval collection artists who have left their mark on the comes highly recommended. region’s culture.

8 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 The lark’s wing ringed in the blue of gold meets the heart of the poppy asleep on the fi eld studded with diamonds, 1967 Oil on canvas. 195 x 130 cm JOAN MIRÓ (1893 – 1983) Many of the works on display at the Miró foundation belong on this list. So why this one? Because few express so perfectly the artist’s desire to ‘achieve the maximum intensity with the minimum means’. In his later period, Miró painted enormous canvases, stripping down and simplifying his style, intensifying his use of colour, and condensing his personal visual language. As always with Miró, the subject of the pain- ting is not represented literally: instead it is suggested by a constellation of symbols. The landscape genre provided a framework for many of Miró’s works, but in this case the format is vertical rather than horizontal, almost suggesting a bird’s-eye view. FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ On loan from Gallery K.AG.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 9 Apse of St Clement de Taüll, 1123 Fresco transferred to canvas 620 x 360 x 180 cm MASTER OF TAÜLL This outstanding Romanesque piece is arguably the most emblematic artwork in the city. The largest work in this selection, it is also the oldest, although it radiates a raw modernity. The raw power of these colours and geometric forms has influenced 20th- century artists from Picasso to Picabia. While contemporary viewers may struggle to identify biblical scenes, the image retains its aura of power. The jagged crack that crosses the main image like a lightning bolt, as if illustrating the inscription Ego sum Lux Mundi (I am the Light of the World), also suggests a root, and the physical uprooting of the mural itself, which was transported from the remote Valley of Boí in the Catalan Pyrenees. MNAC Acquired between 1919-1923. 10 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 The Wait (Margot), 1901 Oil on cardboard. 69.5 x 57 cm PABLO RUIZ PICASSO (1881 – 1973) For some a master, for others a monster, Picasso’s influence dominates the 20th century. His early years were characterised by his voracious appetite for new styles, which he assimilated and mastered with dizzying speed, before surging forward again. But who was Margot? Who is she waiting for, leaning on her elbows, her glittering eyes half-closed. Also known as The Morphine Addict or Pierreuse (slang for prostitute), this is a vivid image of Picasso’s first contact with the bohemian nightlife of Paris. The brushstrokes modelling the face are curt and energetic; in the background they are looser, conjuring the kaleidoscope of the nig- ht. Mixing the influences of the pointillists, Toulouse Lautrec and Van Gogh, it’s the work of a young Picasso taking his first steps towards recognition outside Spain. MUSEU PICASSO Acquired in 1932 by the Junta de Museus. In 1963, when the museum was opened, it became part of the permanent collection.

Sock 2010 Mixed media. 2.85 m ANTONI TÀPIES (1923-2012) Antoni Tàpies made few public sculptures, but Sock is – or could have been – the excepti- on. In 1991, as one of Catalonia’s most prestigious living artists, he was invited to create a sculpture for the huge oval hall inside the museum. But the prospect of an 18m holey sock caused such a n outcry that the project was cancelled. In 2010, the Tàpies foundati- on presented a 2.85 metre version of a work that pays tribute to simple, everyday things. Turning a humble, functional sock into a monumental sculpture invites reflection on the hidden power of ordinary objects, but also on the artist’s experience of old age, a time when straightforward actions – like putting on a sock – become a reminder of mortality. FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Donated by the artist in 2010. November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 11 ALSO NOT TO BE MISSED… The Spanish Wedding, 1870 MARIÀ FORTUNY (1838 – 1874) Though he died at 36, Fortuny is consi- dered the greatest Spanish painter of the 19th century after Goya. The state funded his early studies in Rome, and commissioned large-scale paintings of the Spanish-Moroccan War of 1859. His travels in Northern Africa made a huge impact, turning him into one of Spain’s greatest Romantic painters of the Orient. After 1866 he turned to scenes of Spanish manners and customs, such as this one, set in a richly decorated 18th-century sacristy. The Spanish Wedding shows off For- tuny’s technical virtuosity, his mastery of light and his fascination with costume and period details. Considered the finest example of his mature style, The Spanish Wedding catapulted its author to international fame. MNAC Acquired by public subscription in 1922. St Mary Magdalene, cap a l’any 1470 Cactus Man I, 1939 Tempera on wood 144 x 73 cm JULI GONZÁLEZ (1876 - 1942) A starkly dissected body erupts into JAUME HUGUET (1412 – 1492) spikes, as World War II breaks out in Virginal she may not be, but with her worldly Europe. Juli González was a leading and direct gaze, Mary Magdalene is here figure in the Parisian avant-garde, and a painted as a lady of the royal court, with the pioneer of the use of welding and cutting attributes of the Virgin Mary. She sits on her techniques to create sculptures in iron. throne, resplendent in the robes of a queen, This fragmented figure, undergoing holding a rosary, within a gilded frame with its symbolic metamorphosis, breaks fine fluted columns in the purest Catalan with traditional ideas of symmetry, Gothic style. creating an interplay of contrasting The painting confers an air of regal forms and suggesting a new concept of mystery beyond that of her simple halo. volume. In González’ cubist investiga- The light around her face and smooth tions he sliced and folded sheet metal, folds of her robes show the influence of using iron bars to ‘draw in space’ and Italian naturalism, while the meticulous create the wiry artworks that won him detail draws on the Flemish tradition. The elegance, fragility and refinement international fame. of his work have earned Huguet a place MNAC as one of the greatest Catalan Gothic Donated by Roberta Gonzalez, the artist’s painters. daughter, in 1972, and became part of FUNDACIÓ FRANCISCO GODIA the collection in 1973. Work acquired by Francisco Godia.

12 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012

Food & Drink Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected]

Luxury for less Barcelona’s Michelin-starred chefs open the season with luxurious new ideas that won’t break the bank. By Ricard Martín

Black is a secret restaurant, but neon to remind you that you’ve they’re not trying to keep you out: you arrived somewhere cool. Triple don’t need to know the maitre d’s Michelin-starred chef Paco Pérez has mother-in-law, or mutter a secret designed a menu of cold dishes on password before you’re allowed in. which, as well as straight-up caviar, You just need to know it’s there, and you’ll fi nd a mouth-watering array of ask to be shown the way in. But it’s not dishes that feature caviar as a key a traditional restaurant either: this is ingredient, created with imagination the fi rst vodka and caviar lounge in and a sense of humour . ‘This isn’t Spain. In an paradoxical twist you’ll exactly a place for sit-down suppers,’ fi nd the most exclusive food on the explains Pérez. ‘It’s about informal planet, Beluga sturgeon caviar, snacks and surprises.’ The restaurant alongside one of the most accessible – has an open kitchen from whose bar you enter Black via the La Royal the tapas and main dishes are served. hamburger bar. Another chef who’s upping their Inside, Black is as dark and sleek as game is Romain Fornell. In a bold an expensive cocktail bar, with red move, the youngest chef ever to be

14 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 Food & Drink Food

TEN’S IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN BLACK CAELIS awarded a Michelin star – back when ambitions go beyond reproducing or he was 25 – has become the fi rst reinventing classics like croquettes Michelin-starred chef in Barcelona to and patatas bravas, but he hasn’t off er an all-in fi xed price lunch menu. gone overboard on the design. ‘I It costs €39, at Caelis at the Palace - didn’t want to create anything too the most solemn dining room in the showy. I just wanted to transfer the city (with the possible exception of concept of quality dining to the Via Veneto). ‘We have to move with world of tapas, even if we’re serving the times,’ says Fornell, ‘if we were dishes that never existed before,’ only serving two covers at midday, I’d explains Cruz. rather shut up shop.’ It’s not an It’s unostentatious, functional and arbitrary decision: Fornell has just immaculately presented, with a select taken over ownership of the menu of only 20 tapas. Here’s a restaurant with Alan-Pierre Benteo challenge: spend €120 between two and Eric Basset, and placed his stamp and you can try them all. on the whole business, with a new, contemporary interior that makes a BLACK CAVIAR LOUNGE refreshing contrast to the bourgeois Pl. de Camp, 5. T. 691 403 599. gravity of the hotel. €20 to €100 The third Michelin chef to shake things up is Jordi Cruz, after winning CAELIS back his second star at l’Àbac. He’s Gran Via, 668. T. 93 510 12 05. returning to his roots with Ten’s, a Set lunch menu: €39. tapas bar on the site of the original Àbac, opposite the Estació de França TEN’S – maintaining the original Av. Marquès de l’Argentera, 11. T. 93 restaurant’s green tiles. His 319 60 00. About €30.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 15 El Passatge del Murmuri IIIII Rambla de Catalunya, 104. T. 93 550 06 60. Around €30.

In an area over-supplied with

Food Drink & mediocre restaurants chasing the tourist euro, locals are delighted with the updated Passatge, the Hotel Murmuri’s eatery just off Rambla Catalunya. Chef Giuseppe Palo and his business partners Eduard Puiggròs and Carolina Murtra run what was originally a Thai restaurant, now devoted to Mediterranean, and particularly Catalan, cuisine. The young, enthusiastic team pick the best local, seasonal ingredients to create a fresh take on classic dishes. Natural light during the day and the THE BILL subdued nocturnal lighting make El EL PTGE. DEL MURMURI (2 PAX) Passatge the ideal location for a 1 coca with tomato 2.10 romantic rendezvous. 1 ‘El Passatge’ patatas bravas 5 Among their innovations are 2 portions anchovies 5 small dishes designed to be shared – 1 portion Iberian ham 16 very much on trend – and the plat du 1 ‘plat du jour’ 15.50 jour, an imported French 1 Aranda suckling pig 19 institution, offering daily lunches at 1 water 2 an accessible price. The wine list is 1 ice-cream selection 5 well thought-out, with plenty of 2 iced coffees 3 variety and good value for money. TOTAL (amb IVA) 72.60 € –Marcelo Aparicio ‘Cacio e pepe’

This is the Cinderella of Roman cuisine, found only in a certain trattorias and THE DISH stores that sell bread and pasta. A dish traditionally eaten by shepherds as they watched their sheep. –M.A.

SPECCHIO MAGICO Lluís Antúnez, 1. T. 93 217 88 24 /€16.90 MARIA DIAS

16 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012

Els Jardinets de Gràcia True to its roots Catalan cuisine that manages to be contemporary while avoiding over-sophistication and respects Hot basic ingredients. We recommend that you set aside time to take in an extensive and frequently updated menu, including tables! daily set lunch menus.–M.A. Edited by Marcelo Aparicio (Pg. de Gràcia, 116). M: Diagonal (L3). T. 93 238 48 46. €20-40. Our themed selection Enoteca of Barcelona’s best Seafood star Chef Paco Pérez, from restaurants. the seaside town of Llançà,wonhisfi rst Michelin star in Barcelona, but he did it By Marcelo Aparicio by staying true to his roots, the traditions of the fi shing villages of Cap de Creus, where cooks pride themselves Signature on getting the very best from the fi nest seafood. His sea cucumbers with wild mushrooms are unmissable. –R.M. cuisine (Hotel Arts, Marina, 19-21). M: Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 483 Casa Calvet 81 03. Over €60. Tradition and innovation Since Casa Calvet opened in 1994, chef Miquel Alija has worked to create his own style Jaume de Provença of cuisine, incorporating the latest Past glories It’s worth remembering culinary innovations into traditional that Jaume de Provença boasted a Mediterranean cookery. With an Michelin star for 10 years, and that excellent wine-cellar, this is a great city its chef is one of the best in the city. centre option. –MA Standout dishes include lobster salad or (Casp, 48). M: Tetuan (L2). T. 93 412 40 a delicious duck breast fi let mignon with 12. €40-60. Set lunch available. orange. –M.A. (Provença, 88). M: Entença (L5). T. 93 Codium 430 00 29. €30-40. Laid-back chef Chef Juanjo Rodríguez’s approach to cooking is Lagar honest and beautifully thought out. Small restaurant, big fl avours Classics are brought up to date, with A small restaurant that matches big dishes like tuna tataki with wasabi ice- ambitions with a down-to-earth cream or his salt cod with porrusalada – philosophy, serving a modern take on ample proof of his savoir faire. –M.A. traditional Catalan cuisine that puts (Villarroel, 88). M: Urgell (L1). T. 93 fresh ingredients centre stage: a great 451 09 50. €30-40. Set lunch available. example is the morcilla de Burgos with apple sauce. –M.A. (Llenguadoc, 6). M: Fabra i Puig (L1). T. Tickets 93 346 82 70. €20-40. Set lunch Tapas as a way of life The brothers available. Adrià (Ferran and Albert) have done it again, this time with an ambitious statement of their philosophy of tapas. Topik With separate zones conjuring diff erent Perfect fusion Chef Adelf Morales atmospheres and fl avours, from seafood brings a breath of fresh air to the to sweets, diners are plunged into a Eixample, with a restaurant that stands wildly imaginative re-invention of tapas out from the crowd thanks to its from all over Spain. Watermelon infused perfectly judged fusion of Japanese with sangria or their unique olives are cuisine with Mediterranean culture. –M.A. only a taste of what’s in store. –R.M. (València, 199). M: Passeig de Gràcia (Av. Paral·lel, 164). M: Poble Sec (L3). (L2-L3-L4) i Provença (FGC). T. 93 451 €40-60. 09 23. €20-40. Set lunch available.

18 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 THE FREE TIME OUT BARCELONA APP! TIME OUT IN YOUR MOBILE PHONE BARCELONA IN YOUR POCKET!

ALL THE CITY’S CULTURE AND LEISURE Discover and geolocalize everything that’s happenning in Barcelona: restaurants, DOWNLOAD IT gigs, cinema... FOR FREE IN THE APPLE STORE! Shopping Edited by Eugenia Sendra [email protected]

Inspiring jewellery Lucía Vergara started out making necklaces, and ended up creating her own label, Après Ski. She’s left for London, but her Born studio remains. By Laia Beltran

Our Garden Needs its Flowers takes sense of the term – taking a source its name from a 1985 album by of inspiration and making it the Jess Sah Bi and Peter One, songs basis of a creative statement. She that mix country and western with makes it look easy, but it’s not: traditional African tunes, folk from creativity’s like style, you have it or the Ivory Coast refracted through you don’t. Lucía has both in spades. the prism of cowboy nostalgia. She doesn’t identify with any They’re intoxicating melodies that particular place: she was born, and have a serious social message. studied, in Valencia, and from there Lucía Vergara has borrowed the she made the leap to Barcelona, title for the latest collection from attracted by the possibility of Après Ski – it’s her homage to the working in fashion. Our Garden obscure artists that have provided Needs its Flowers is the culmination the soundtrack to long hours in her of a career that began out of small studio in the Born. As she curiosity; while working for designer works, the only moments of Lydia Delgado she started making silence are the pauses between her own necklaces. First her friends songs, as Dirty Beaches follows asked for them, then her friends’ Adriano Celentano, Jens Lekman friends – the result was Après Ski. or Dominant Legs. Our Garden Needs its Flowers APRÈS SKI isn’t Lucia Vergara’s debut, but it’s Cotoners, 12. her first collection in the strict www.apresskishop.com

20 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 The double-looped Colony necklace (€46), which combi- nes hand-painted wood with old glass – one of the star pieces in the Our Garden collection. Shopping

One of Lucia’s favourite ‘fl owers’: the Bi neckla- ce, with pastel-toned wooden shapes in various sizes (€71).

Ready to unleash your inner astrono- mer? The Saturno necklace (38€) is the one for you.

Cosmic Ice Cream (37€) is one of Après Ski’s most successful pieces, layering art deco trian- gles in delicious colours and textures.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 21 Around Town Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected]

Born to run Want to get know to Barcelona at street level? We suggest three ways to run the city. By Eugènia Sendra

World decathlon champion Roger cable car, or just walking – a good Roca recommends that beginners start warm-up. It’s a 1.3 km run, close to the on the flat, and alternate walking and castle cemetery. To extend the route, jogging. If possible it should be green you can simply repeat the circuit, or – to avoid breathing in too much for variety, try the longer version, carbon dioxide – and central: the following the perimeter of the castle obvious choice is Ciutadella Park. and the museum, passing the seaward It’s a simple circuit, around two km walls and the funicular station. The in total, which starts and finishes at second route clocks in at 2km. the beginning of Passeig Picasso. Barcelona’s city council recently The route misses some of the park’s published Barcelona Corre, by Pere features, such as the lake or the Bosch and Núria Blanco, which Catalan Parliament buildings, but if presents 23 routes for runners. It’s in you’re left wanting more, it can easily Catalan, but you can find three selected be extended. Be warned: on a Sunday routes in English at www.bcn.cat/ afternoon, the route indicated by barcelonablog (search ‘corre’). One of green markers will involve a lot of the most popular routes is number 5 – slow-moving obstacles. 2.6 km along Avinguda Diagonal There are plenty of online resources between C/ Badajoz and C/Josep Pla. with detailed route descriptions and You’ll have to dodge bikes and maps – for our second challenge we benches, but you’ll also see plenty of suggest a simple circuit of Montjuïc. other runners who appreciate a well- You can get to the start point using the finished road surface.

22 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 23 Arts Edited by Josep Lambies [email protected]

La Pedrera turns 100 La Pedrera, the last major work Gaudí saw to completion, is celebrating its centenary. Before the candles are lit, Eugenia Sendra dusts off its history.

The peephole opens, and behind the closing them with brio. What brought wooden doors and a wrought-iron this well-known family of lawyers to La grille appears Carmen Burgos Bosch. Pedrera? ‘My father-in-law fell in love She moved into Casa Milà in the 1950s with it, but everyone told him it was a and is the most high-profi le of the monstrosity, far too dark,’ she explains, house’s four remaining residents – in what was her husband’s bedroom. something of a living national She leads on to the bathroom, pointing treasure. She is the last to receive out all the doors – there are fi ve – and visitors in the original interiors that the column in the middle of the room. Antoni Gaudí designed in 1906, and Her mother used to wonder out loud despite her 81 years, is happy to show what they had done to deserve such an me every corner of her 300 m2 fl at. impractical bathroom. She says it was a wise move to follow In the plaster of the living room the advice of her husband, notary wall, Gaudí created – ‘and signed,’ public Ramon Maria Roca Sastre – he adds Carmen – a sgraffi to of a cross, told her to keep the coal-fi red oven. The the Catalan fl ag and a heart. She talks kitchen cabinets are ideal, not too high about the luminosity and the quiet and not too low, she adds, opening and inside the house, emphasising the

24 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012

Arts E. MAPPLETHORPE E. 25 rst (2012), backed

Banga Time Out BCN Guide was to plug the gap in the ning characteristics – will cent rst months of the year, –Marta Salicrú PATTI SMITH PATTI de la Música. Palau 19 November. THE DIVINE COMEDY Casino de l’Aliança. 3 November. Founded 14 years ago, at the end of ago, years 14 Founded the century – and of hence the millennium, original the name – this festival’s d’être raison musical calendar during the last city’s and the fi music desert. Times traditionally a live has a changed, and the city now have steady stream of gigs to keep us warm December to February. from through del Mil·lenni has But the Festival begins the festival grown too: this year and, just for comparison, in November, into on well went festival last year’s It starts with a bang: the fi spring. and Patti Comedy The Divine acts are Smith who – and this is another of the defi festival’s Neil stunning venues. both be playing Hannon will be performing The Divine back catalogue ofComedy’s baroque pop alone, and at the piano – a format him freedomthat allows to interact with the audience – in the welcoming ambience of the Casino de l’Aliança in Patti will Smith Meanwhile Poblenou. album, her most recent be promoting the magnifi Música Festival del Mil·lenni by a four-piece band, at the Palau de la Música. November 2012 November cate rst nest lm footage lm eport. The The eport. and kept erent, cient living spaces, living cient by lm sets and inhabited She remembers the market in the car the market She remembers Barba Corsini created parabolic The building as a whole is oor hall – all businesses the bingo and house on the Passeig de Gràcia, but she ended up paying for it. The signing of the construction completion certifi until 1912, although the was delayed building had been completed two earlier. years importance of the natural the light and sense of calm created the central by light well. house on the fi park, the boarding designed with curves, played arches, small lofts to optimize the use of space and experimented with what he called ‘interior architecture.’ the He designed lighting and the furniture. All that ofremains these effi as striking as fi trying ideas out new until the client’s patience ran out. The client question in Segimon, a wealthy was Rosario a Milà, who married widow Pere her the fi He promised developer. started of by the owners building the during generate some the 1950s, to income for of a work that was genius running Barba architect The at a loss. and laundry the loft Corsini renovated – the spacehouses the rooms that now Espai Gaudí – to create 13 duplex apartments. full-scale ‘It was the only ofmodern-day reworking of one architect by a Barcelona works Gaudí’s who was important right,’ in his own Millet, author Joaquim Ruiz ofsays a monograph on Barba Corsini, and director of the gallery H2O. fl ofthe in-crowd period, the Francesc are photographs, the Català Roca’s some fi drawings, architect’s and the odd newspaper r destroyed apartments were themselves in 1995, despite an initial agreement bank – with the Caixa Catalunya ofowners the building since 1986 – to of two preserve them. supported which on columns, means that the façade is not load-bearing, and becomes a curtain free wall, allowing distribution of the internal spaces. the façade and make Gaudí could move each apartment diff Nightlife Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] CARLA TRAMULLAS Gigs beside the tracks The spacious café at the Estació de França re-opens as The Station, a late-night bar with live music. By Ricard Martín

Without falling into the hoary clichés Caballero – two crowds whose only of cinema – brief encounters, missed common denominator was the need connections, last goodbyes – railway for company and one more drink. stations are sad places. Genuinely sad, The Station is still the place for sordid and grimy, with none of the early-risers and nighthawks: it opens romance of the silver screen: it’s all at half past six in the morning and lukewarm coffee, plastic-wrapped closes at 3am. What was once an pastries and blocked drains. By echoing, utilitarian hall with Formica evening the despair among the last tables dispersed among marble travellers is palpable, leaden eyes columns has been converted into a jazz glued to the departures board. greenhouse, where 12-foot plants So we should all be grateful that the disappear up towards the ceiling. only station café in Catalonia with a During the day snacks and lunches are glimmer of personality, at Barcelona’s served: early evening is the time to grand but underused Estació de appreciate its charm, as the only bar in França, is opening its doors again. Barcelona promoting late-night With the self-explanatory moniker clubbing with live bands. The Station, it will warm the hearts of locals who remember it as the place THE STATION where workers on the early shift Marquès de l’Argentera, 6 downed breakfast sandwiches and (Estació de França). T. 93 295 coffees laced with brandy, shoulder to 63 62. Mon-Fri, 6.30am-2am; shoulder with clubbers emerging from Fri & Sat, until 3am. Magic and the late-lamented Woman www.stationbarcelona.com

26 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 27

Listings November 2012 [email protected]

Legacy of Patti Festival Pollock Smith L’Alternativa

UNTIL 24 FEB MONDAY 19 21-25 NOV A look at Pollock’s Legendary NYC Festival of effect on artists poet and singer independent and such as Warhol and performs songs original cinema, Bruce Nauman. At from new album over four days at the Fundació Miró. Banga. the CCCB.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 29 the La Caixa Foundation’s modern art collection revolves around these Exhibitions questions. Information and sales: Tourist Information Points and Can Framis. www.barcelonaturisme.cat Fundació Vila Casas (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries Arxiu Fotogràfic (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). de Barcelona T. 93 320 87 36. http://www. fundaciovilacasas.com/en/ Tue-Sat., (Pl. Pons i Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Triomf 11am-6pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. 5 € adults. (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 34 20. 2 € students and pensioners. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and Agustí Centelles. A public holidays. Photographic Chronicle – The FREE Raval. Consuelo Bautista Thirties. Until 10 Feb. Photographs by Until 26 January. More than 50 renowned Catalan photojournalist photographs documenting Barcelona’s Agustí Centelles, documenting the last Raval district, shot by renowned years of the Spanish Republic, the Civil photojournalist Consuelo Bautista War and his years in exile. between 2004 and 2010. Castell de Montjuïc CaixaForum (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. 6-8). M: Espanya (L1-L3- To http://www.bcn.cat/ FGC). T. 93 476 86 00. mark the castelldemontjuic/en/ www.lacaixa.es/ 25th anniversary welcome.html of the Barcelona Bus obrasocial. Mon-Fri, you can visit FREE Sala del Pati 10am-8pm. Wed, Turístic d’Armes this exhibition (Diagonal 10am-11pm. Sat, Sun, Metro Station), Photographs of 10am-9pm. combining the Bus, President Lluís FREE Before the the FC Barcelona Companys, 1931-1938 flood. Mesopotamia and the city’s his- Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm. 3500-2100 B.C. From 30 tory. From 15 Oct to 30 Jan. Nov to 24 Feb. With over 400 Photographs of Catalan archaeological exhibits, the show president explores our debt to this early Near Lluís Companys, who was executed Eastern civilisation. by Franco’s troops at Montjuïc Castle FREE Food justice. Sowing in 1940. the Seeds of Hope Until 5 Jan. The problems of distributing and providing access to food across the globe CCCB. Centre de Cultura are presented through recordings made Contemporània de by people living in rural communities in Bolivia and Tanzania. Barcelona FREE The Arts of Piranesi: Architect, Printmaker, (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). Antiquarian, Painter of T. 93 306 41 00. www.cccb.org/en Cityscapes and Designer From 5 Tue-Sun & public hols, 11am-8pm. Oct to 20 Jan. Over 250 works by the Closed Mon. 5 €. Reduced entry for multifaceted 18th-century Italian artist pensioners and students on Wed (excl Giambattista Piranesi, whose influence public holidays): 3,40 €. Free for under on European art and culture was 16s, & unemployed, Thur 8-10pm & profound. Sun 3-8pm. FREE What to Think. What to El Paral·lel, 1894-1939 From Desire. What to Do. The La Caixa 26 Oct to 24 Feb. The broad avenue Foundation’s contemporary art of El Paral.lel was created during collection. From 9 Nov to 25 August. Barcelona’s 19th century expansion. In confusing times it makes sense to This exhibition describes the evolution ask oneself: What should I think? of a new entertainment district that What should I desire? What should stretched from Plaça Espanya to the I do? This exhibition of works from sea.

30 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 World Press Photo 2012 From 29 Nov to 6 Jan. The World Press Photo Espai VolART-Fundació exhibition is renowned as the biggest Vila Casas international showcase for photojournalism. More than a travelling (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona exhibition of the best news (L1-L4). T. 93 481 79 85. www. photography, it’s a document of the fundaciovilacasas.com. Tue-Fri, year’s main stories. 5-8.30pm, Sat, 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. 1 €; Reduced: 50¢. CosmoCaixa Espai Volart 2 Daniel Enkaoua – (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo Create/Believe 20 Sept-16 Dec. (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. www.lacaixa.es/ Paintings by French artist Daniel obrasocial. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 3 € Enkaoua, a master of expressionist (permanent and temporary exhibitions). brushwork. Reduced entry Víctor Pérez-Porro – ‘The 2 €. First Sun of month free. Colours of Berlin made Shapes Epidemic! Until 10 February. in my Head’ 20 Sept-12 Dec. Exhbition explaining the causes and Thirty works focusing on the most cyclical nature of epidemics, and how recent work by this contemporary artist: they have shaped the history of a meditation on the various elements of humanity. painting as a discipline – shape, colour Technorevolucion Until 6 and texture. May. Interactive exhibition that allows visitors to experience the evolution of technology, with spaces dedicated to Filmoteca de Catalunya nanotechnology, biotechnology, IT and (Plaça Salvador Seguí, 1). M: Liceu (L3). cognitive sciences. T. 93 410 75 90. www.filmoteca.cat. 4€. El Raval. The Image of a District Tue-Sun, 4pm-9pm. Until 11 DHUB Barcelona- Nov. The Raval is a central district of Pedralbes Barcelona, celebrated in novels, plays and films. This exhibition explores the (Palau Reial de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal, history of the area and its portrayal in 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T. 93 256 34 film. 65. www.dhub-bcn.cat. Tue.-Sun., 10am- 6pm. Closed: 1 Jan, 1 May, 24 June, 25 & 26 Dec. 5 € (ticket valid for Disseny Fundació Alorda- HuB Barcelona-Montcada). Derksen DHUB - Museu de les Arts Decoratives Permanent exhibition. (Aragó, 314). M: Girona (L4). T. 93 272 DHUB - Museu Tèxtil i 62 50. www.fundacionad.com By appt. 5 d’Indumentària Permanent €. Reduced 3 €. exhibition. Permanent exhibition: contemporary art collection focusing on DHUB Museu de cutting-edge international artists. Ceràmica (Palau Reial Fundació Antoni Tàpies de Pedralbes) (Aragó, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). T. 93 487 03 15. www. (Palau Reial de Pedralbes, Avda fundaciotapies.org. Tue-Sun, 10am- Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T. 7pm. 7 €. Students and pensioners, 93 256 34 65. www.museuceramica.bcn. 5.60 €. cat. Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm. Public hols, Re. Act. Feminism #2 – A 10am- 3pm. Closed Mon. 5€. Reduced: Performing Archive 16 Nov-17 Feb. 3€. A temporary and living archive of A Singular Garden. Ceramics performance art, which will travel from Iznik, in the 16th and 17th Europe from 2011 to 2013, presenting centuries. From 10 Oct to 3 March. A feminist, gendercritical and queer journey through the unique and performance art by over 120 artists and beautiful ceramics of Iznik (Turkey), artist collectives from the 1960s to the which are characterized by their ornate beginning of the 1980s, as well as floral decorations. contemporary positions.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 31 Francisco Godia La Pedrera (Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença L3-L4). T. 93 272 31 80. www. (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). T. 902 400 fundacionfgodia.org. Mon-Sun, 10am- 973. www.lapedrera.com. Mon-Sun, 8pm. Closed Tue 6.50 €, Reduced 3.25 €. 9am-6.30pm (last admission: 6pm) Palazuelo. Lines and planes in 16.50 €. Reduced 14.85 €. space. 9 Oct to 6 Jan. The conceptual Exhibition Hall The other discoveries and geometric procedures Pedreres. Architecture and that enabled sculptor and painter Pablo furniture of the twentieth century Palazuelo (1915-2007) to turn the shapes 13 Nov-24 Feb. 3 €. To commemorate the of his private geometry into works in centenary of La Pedrera, this wide- aluminum and steel. ranging exhibition features buildings from the same period. Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya MACBA Museu d’Art (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. www. Contemporani fundaciomiro-bcn.org. Tue-Sat, 10am- 8pm. Thu, 10am-9.30pm, Sun & public (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed (L1-L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 Mondays. 10 €. Espai 13, 2.50 €. 08 10. www.macba.cat. Mon- Fri, 11am- Explosion! The legacy 8pm. Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public of Jackson Pollock La holidays, 10am-3pm. Tues. closed, From 24 Oct to 24 Feb. Fundació except public holidays. Whole With works by artists Godia museum ticket, 8 € (reduced from the late 40s to the (Diputació, 250) 6.5 €). Single exhibition ticket, present day, including looks at how painter 6 € (reduced, 4,50 €). Pollock, Andy and sculptor Pablo Utopia is possible – Warhol & Yves Klein. Palazuelo turned his ICSID. Eivissa, 1971 Until Espai 13 Jordi geometric system 20 Jan. Utopia is Possible. Mitjà - Monument. into works made of Documentary material, aluminum and Wire thieves. 5 Oct-2 steel. photographs and films from the Dec. A site-specific MACBA’s own collection, sculpture created for Espai commemorating the VII Congress of 13. the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID). Nasrin Tabatabai & Babak Fundació Suñol Afrassiabi. ‘Seep’ 1 Oct to 20 Jan. (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal First Spanish exhibition by two Iranian (L3-L5). T. 93 496 10 32 . www. artists, based on their Two Archives: fundaciosunol.org Mon-Sat 4pm-8pm. their project exploring processes of Closed 3-27 September. modernisation in the 20th century. Fifth anniversary of the Josep Suñol collection 28 Sept-9 Mar. Exhibition to mark the MEAM Museu Europeu Suñol Foundation’s fifth anniversary, d’Art Modern with works by more than 70 artists including Picasso, Dalí, Tàpies, (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. Warhol, Boetti and Man Ray. 93 319 56 93. www.meam.es. Tue-Sun, Nivell Zero Documents and 10am-8pm. 7 €. Reduced 5 €. memory: The Josep Suñol 21st century contemporary collection archive Until 2 Mar. art Almost 200 paintings and 30 sculptures featuring works by figurative, realist or hyperrealist artists from all over Jardí Botànic the world. (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. www. museuciencies.bcn.cat. Oct-March; daily, MIBA Museu d’Idees 10am-6pm. i Invents de Barcelona Masia del Jardí Botànic Savia Roja Mon-Fri 10am-2pm. Until 30 Nov. (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 Watercolours by Mexican artist Tatiana 332 79 30. www.mibamuseum.com. Musi. Tue-Fri., 10am-2pm & 4-7pm. Sat,

32 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 11am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, 21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat. 10am-2pm. 7 €. Tues-Sat, 10-19 h. Sun, 10am-8pm The Barcelona Museum of (Sun free after 3pm). Sun and Mon Ideas and Inventions Permanent before public holidays, 10am-2pm. exhibition. Closed Mon. 7 €. Under-16s free. Saló del Tinell Indianes. Els orígens de la Barcelona industrial, MNAC Museu Nacional 1736-1847 Until 16 December. The d’Art de Catalunya mass-production of calico prints or ‘indianes’ galvanised the economic life of (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya Barcelona. (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. www. MUHBA Laboratory. mnac.cat. Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. Sun & Collecting the city Until 1 April. public holidays, 10am-2.30pm. 10 €. Temporary exhibitions: consult website. Permanent collection: The MUHBA Park Güell largest collection of Catalan art from the (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 256 Romanesque to the mid-19th century. 21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat. FREE The Museum Investigates. From 1 April until 30 Sept: Mon-Sun Works of Art under Scrutiny 23 10am-8pm. From 1 Oct until 31 March: Nov-24 Feb. Showing the vicissitudes Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. 2€ and modifications undergone by some Permanent exhibition of the museum’s artworks, and the ways experts distinguish between an original, a copy, a forgery or a restoration. MUHBA Refugi 307 (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Jaume I (L1-L4). T. 93 256 21 00. www.museuhistoria.bcn. MUHBA El Call cat. Sat. & Sun., 10am-2pm, by (Placeta de Manuel Ribé). M: Liceu (L3) appointment. Public holidays, closed. 3 €. & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. www. Permanent exhibition. In museuhistoria.bcn.cat. Tue-Fri, 11am- these 400 metres of underground 2pm. Sat, Sun, 11am-7pm. Sun and passageways, visitors can relive the Mon before public holidays, 10am-2pm. uncertainty of a city which, during the Closed Monday. 2 €. Civil War, was subject to a new form of Salomó ben Adret (1235- warfare:. 1310). The Triumph of an Orthodoxy Until 31 December. Salomó ben Adret, also known as the Rashba, MUHBA Santa Caterina was a Catalan Jewish leader and Rabbi at (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). T. the main synagogue of Barcelona during 93 256 21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn. the late 13th and early 14th centuries. cat. Mon-Sat., 10am-2pm. Sun. & Public holidays, closed. Permanent exhibition. Inside Museu Monestir Santa Caterina Market, this exhibition de Pedralbes describes the significant events in Barcelona’s history. (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34 . www. museuhistoria.bcn.cat Tues-Fri, de 10am- MUHBA Vil·la Joana. 5pm. Sun, 10am-7pm. Sun, 10am-8pm Casa Verdaguer (Sun, free after 3pm). Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Monday. 7 €. Reduced 5 €. Under (Ctra de l’Església, 104. Vallvidrera). T. 16s, Barcelona Card, free entry. 93 204 78 05. www.museuhistoria.bcn. Paintings from the Sant cat. Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. Tue-Wed, Miquel Chapel Until 31 December. groups (by appt) only . Closed Mon. Paintings from the chapel of Sant Permanent exhibition The Miquel, a 14th-century Gothic poet Jacint Verdaguer, one of the great masterpiece. figures in the revival of Catalan as a literary language, spent the last years of MUHBA Museu his life in this 19th century villa. d’Història de Barcelona Museu Blau (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 33 Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. www.museuciencies.bcn. Museu del Futbol Club cat Tue-Sun & public holidays, 10am- Barcelona 8pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Museum & Botanical Gardens, 7 €. (Arístides Maillol, s/n. FCB stadium. Aliens: Exotic Species Invade. Access gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3). Until 31 Jan. How do invasive species T. 902 18 99 00. www.fcbarcelona.cat. arrive in an ecosystem, and what are the From 2 April to 7 Oct: Mon-Sat, 10am – consequences? 8pm. Sun & public holidays, 10am- Espai Terra: The Catalonia You 2.30pm. 8 Oct – 1 April: Mon-Sat., Know Until 31 Jan. Photographs of 10am – 6.30pm. Sun &/ public holidays, remote areas, unusual land formations, 10am – 2.30pm. Camp Nou Tour flora, fauna and meteorology – available until one hour before museum everything that relates to the geography closing time. 22 €. Children 16.50 €. of the Catalan-speaking regions. Under 6s and FCB members, free Permanent exhibition. The Camp Nou Experience. Discover 100 Museu de Badalona years of the club’s history, visit different (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). zones of the Camp Nou and relive the Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. club’s greatest moments in the 93 384 17 50. www.museudebadalona. multimedia zone. cat Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun & public holidays, 10am-2pm. 6 €. Permanent exhibition Tue-Fri, Museu del Modernisme 5-8pm, Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. Until Català 31 Dec. A display of objects that were in daily use in Badalona more than 2,000 (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- years ago. L3-L4). T. 93 272 28 96. www.mmcat. cat. Mon-Sat., 10am . 8pm Sun & public holidays, 10am-2pm. 10 €. Museu de l’Eròtica Permanent Exhibition (La Rambla, 96, bis). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). T. 93 318 98 65. www.erotica- museum.com. June-Sept: Mon-Fri, Museu Egipci 10am-9pm. Oct-May: Mon-Sun,10am- (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- 8pm. Adults 9 €. Reduced 8 €. L3-L4). T. 93 488 01 88. www.museuegipci. Permanent exhibition This com. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Sun, 10am- season the Erotic Museum has 2pm. Adults 11 €. Reduced, 8 €. inaugurated its ‘Garden of the Senses’ – Permanent exhibition an open-air exhibition at the heart of Barcelona. Museu Frederic Marès (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) & Museu de la Moto Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat, de Barcelona 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays, 11am-8pm. Closed Mon except public (Carrer de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 holidays. 4.20 €. 584. www.museumoto.com. Tues-Sat, Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona- 10am-2pm & 4.30pm-8.30pm. Sun 10am- Paris. A Road to Freedom: In 2pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Reduced entry: 4 €. Bronze Until 30 September. Work by The Montjuïc International painter, sculptor and engraver Xavier 24 hour race Until 30 June. Paying Vilató, Picasso’s nephew. homage to a race which was held for 32 years, from 1955 to 1986. Museu Olímpic i de Museu de la Música l’Esport Joan Antoni (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) & Samaranch Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. www. museumusica.bcn.cat Mon-Sat., (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: 10am-6pm. Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 292 53 Tues. 4 €. Reduced 3 €. Free admission 79. www.museuolimpicbcn.cat. Tues- Sun afternoon. Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, Permanent exhibition from 10 a 14.30 h. 4.50 €. Students,

34 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012

2.60 €. Under-14s free. Over-65s free. III International Award for Virreina Centre Watercolours and Other Works de la Imatge on Paper. Theme: Sport 6 Sept- 21Dec. Works from the award (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 shortlist. 316 10 00. www.bcn.cat/ virreinacentredelaimatge Tue-Sun, noon-8pm. Museu Picasso Aïm Deüelle Lüski. Residual (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). T. images. Documentary 93 256 30 00. www.museupicasso.bcn. photography in dark times 23 Oct- cat. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon 13 Jan. Since the 1970s, Photographer (except public holidays). 11 € (combined Aïm Deüelle Lüski has invented an ticket for museum + temporary exhibition). enormous variety of cameras and this Temporary exhibition only: 6 €. exhibition shows how he has used them. Picasso’s ceramics: a gift from Jacqueline to Barcelona 26 Oct -1 April. Exhibition featuring 41 original ceramic works by Picasso to celebrate the Theatre 30th anniversary of their donation by Jacqueline Picasso to Barcelona. Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona- El Molino Paris. A road to freedom: People (Vilà i Vilà, 99). www.elmolinobcn.com. Until 11 Nov. Work by painter, sculptor M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Advance: www. and engraver Xavier Vilató, Picasso’s elmolinobcn.com. nephew, who was instrumental in El Molino lifts the spirit Thur- securing a significant donation of the Sun., 6.30 pm. 33 €. artist’s works for the museum. A risqué show that looks back over the history of the legendary El Molino theatre, with feathers and Palau Robert sequins, vintage entertainment and a (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal generous dose of humour and audience (L3-L5). T. 93 238 80 91. www.gencat. participation. cat/probert. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. El Molino Burlesque Fever Sun & public holidays, 10am-2.30pm. Thur-Sun 9.30pm. 33 €. FREE Jardí Catalunya Experience Sensual, daring and provocative 5 Oct-18 Nov. Photographs of Catalonia burlesque. by its people. FREE Sala 4 Catalan: a language for everyone. 30 years of Teatre Gaudí Barcelona language policy 21 Nov-5 Jan. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). Celebration of thirty years of campaigns T. 93 603 51 52. www.teatregaudi to raise awareness and promote the use barcelona.com. M: Sagrada Família of Catalan. (L2-L5) & Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). FREE Sala 3 Ferran Adrià & El David & Sara by Ever Blanchet. Tue & Bulli – Risk, Freedom and Wed, 8.45pm. 18 €. From 7 August. Creativity Until 3 Jan. The creative In Spanish. A love story set in a time of genius of Ferran Adrià, probably the fear, dogma, repression, uncertainty, most influential chef in the world, betrayal and cruelty. whose talent and flair for innovation Our Personal Champions have turned 21st-century gastronomy league by Cristina Clemente. Dir: upside-down. Cristina Clemente. With Alícia Puertas FREE Salas 1 & 2 Photographs and Santi Ricart . Thurs-Sat, 10.15pm. from the New York Times Sun., 8pm. 18 €. Until 2 Dec. In Catalan. Magazine 28 Sept-2 Dec. An The social and family pressures on a examination of the nature of young couple of an age where they are photography at a crucial moment in the contemplating parenthood can be development of the printed press. almost unbearable. FREE Mossos d’Esquadra. The Second Republic and the Civil War. 1931-1939 2 Oct-18 Nov The Teatre Lliure: Gràcia history of the Catalan regional police (Montseny, 47). T. 93 238 76 25. www. force from its origins to the present teatrelliure.com. M: Fontana (L3) & day. Joanic (L4).

36 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 Ivan and the Dogs by Hattie Naylor. Dir: Pau Carrió. With Pol López. Wed-Fri 8.30pm. Sat., 5.30pm & 9pm. Dance Sun., 6pm. From €19 to 28. From 21-25 Nov. In Catalan. Dramatic monologue based on Gran Teatre del Liceu a true story by British playwright (La Rambla, 51-59). T. 93 485 99 00 . Hattie Naylor. www.liceubarcelona.cat. M: Liceu (L3). Trial of a Whore by Miguel del Arco. Prague National Ballet ‘The Dir: Miguel del Arco. Amb Carmen Nutcracker, a Christmas Tale’ Machi. 60. Tue-Fri., 8.30pmp. Sat., 9pm. Thur & Fri, 8 pm. Sat, 8 & 9pm. Sun, Sun., 6pm. From €21.30 to 30.25. 28 5 pm. From €19 to 125.50. 22-25 Nov. Nov-16 Dec. In Spanish. Hungarian choreographer Youri Dramatic monologue about Helen of Vámos brings the well-loved tale Troy, the woman accused of causing to life. the most famous of the ancient wars. Mercat de les Flors Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc (Lleida, 59). T. 93 426 18 75. www. (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). T. 93 mercatflors.cat. M: Espanya (L1-L3- 289 27 70 . www.teatrelliure.com. M: FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). Espanya (L1-L3-FGC)&i Poble Sec (L3). Head Sat & Sun, 8.30pm. €6. 3 & 30-40 Livingstone by Sergi López 4 Nov & Jorge Picó. With Jorge Picó & Sergi Daniel Abreu’s latest work is about López. 60. Tue-Fri., 8.30pm. Sat., 9pm. drops. Sun., 6pm. From €21.30-30.25. 31 Oct Icosahedron Sat & Sun., 20.30 h. -18 Nov. In Catalan 6 €. 10 & 11 Nov. A loquacious, contradictory, Tânia Carvalho and twenty dancers. contemporary character, deeply Little Me + Loser Kings Thur & unsatisfied with his life, decides to Fri., 7pm. 6 €. 8 & 9 Nov. give it all up and go in search of Eulàlia Ayguadé & Young Jin Kim adventures. in collaboration with circus performer Joan Català. The Strange Thing is That Teatre Nacional We’re Alive Sat & Sun., 7pm. 6 €. 10 de Catalunya & 11 Nov. Patricia Caballero, from Cádiz, (Pl. de les Arts, 1). T. 93 306 57 00. presents her latest work. www.tnc.cat. M: Glòries (L1) i Slipping through my fingers Monumental (L2). Thur & Fri., 8.30 pm. 6 €. 8 & 9 Nov. La Bête by David Hirson (translated Swedish choreographer Helena by Joan Sellent). Dir: Sergi Belbel. Wed- Franzén investigates the poetry of Fri., 8pm. Ds., 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. From the body. 19.50 to 38.09 €. Until 25 Nov. In Catalan. Composed in verse in the style Teatre Gaudí Barcelona of Moliere, ‘La Bête’ was a huge hit (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T. on Broadway and in the West End. 93 603 51 52. www. MCBTH (Macbeth) based on the teatregaudibarcelona.com. M: play by William Shakespeare. Dir: Àlex Sagrada Família (L2-L5) & Sant Pau/ Rigola. Wed & Fri., 8pm. Thur 5pm or Dos de Maig (L5). 8pm. Sat 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. From 15.69
Happy Ha Ha Dir: Mercedes to 31.37 €. Oct . Until 18 Nov. In Boronat. Sat 6pm. Sun noon. 9 €. Catalan. Dance show for the whole family. Aloose adaptation of Shakespeare’s Scottish play by one of Catalan theatre’s most controversial and INFORMATION creative directors. Ras! Wed, Thur, Fri., 10.30am., Sat AND SALES 6pm, Sun, 12pm, From 8.96 to 13.44 €. 7-25 Nov A show that mixes theatre, dance Tourist Information Points and and visual arts. www.barcelonaturisme.cat

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 37 Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). The legendary DJ, best known for his ‘rythmes digitales’, Day by day project plays at Nitsa Club. Information and sales: Tourist Information Points and www.barcelonaturisme.cat Flamenco 9.30pm Flamenco Nights at the Thursday 1 Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Flamenco Mon-Sat a 9.30pm. 20 €. Guitar, voice 9.30pm and cajón in one of the most beautiful Gran Gala Flamenco Palau de la palaces of the Ribera district. Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 30 to 45 €. Jazz Dance and music bring to life the 9pm passionate world of Spain’s flamenco 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona traditions. International Jazz Festival: Andrea 6.45, 8.30, 10 & 11.30pm Motis & Juan Chamorro Sextet Pastora Galván & Antonio ‘El Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de Farru’ and JuncoTablao Flamenco la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1- Cordobés (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes L4). From 12 to 32 €. (L3) & Liceu (L3). Motis & Chamorro present a new show Dancers Pastora & ‘El Farru’ are that pays homage to two jazz greats: accompanied by up-and-coming artists. Billie Holiday & Lester Young. 9.30pm 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Folk traditions International Jazz Festival: Ramón 11.30am Valle Trio with Jesse Van Ruller FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: (Plaça de la Catedral). Traditional Diagonal (L3-L5). 23 €. Cuban piano Catalan dance. prodigy Ramón Valle and his band Pop return with a new album. 12.30am Cupcake Sala Apolo (Nou de la Saturday 3 Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Paying homage to everything eighties. Flamenco 7pm Opera and Flamenco Palau Friday 2 de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). Blues From 30 to 45 €. 5-6pm This innovative show mixes opera, Blues and Jazz at Palau the Spanish tradition of zarzuela – a Gomis - MEAM MEAM: Museu Spanish opera for the working-classes, Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de with spoken parts – and flamenco Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 9 €. music. Classical music Folk traditions 9pm 6pm The OBC with Alban Gerhardt FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (Plaça de la Catedral). 3, 10 & 17 Nov (L1), Monumental (L2)6pmMarina Traditional Catalan dance. (L1). From 23 to 51 €. Works by Gerhardt, Lalo & Stravinsky. Guitar 9pm Electronic music The Art of the Guitar. 12.30am ‘Flamenco & Classic’ Parròquia Nitsa Club: Jacques Lu Cont Sala de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 21

38 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 €. The Spanish guitar in concert in a Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la 12th-century church hidden away beside Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4) Plaça Catalunya. 30 €. Chamber music recital with works for solo piano and songs by Falla, Albéniz, Granados, Toldrà and others. Jazz 7pm 9pm Barrocco Sempre Giovanni 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Int. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Jazz Festival: Giulia Valle Group (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal 23.50 €. The Czech baroque chamber (L3-L5). 20 €. Composer Giulia Valle and ensemble play works by Stamic, Grieg, her group, with a flawless rhythm section Mozart and Mendelssohn-Bartholdy. and two first-class soloists, present ‘Live’. Folk traditions Pop 11.30am 9pm FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral The Divine Comedy: a night with (Plaça de la Catedral). Catalan dance. Neil Hannon Casino de l’Aliança del Poblenou (Rambla del Poblenou, 42). M: Poblenou (L4). From 24 to 28 €. Composer Football and singer Neil Hannon revisits his band League fixture. FC Barcelona the Divine Comedy’s back catalogue. vs. Celta de Vigo Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). La Liga round 7 brings Sunday 4 Galician team to the Camp Nou. Classical music Soul 12pm 9pm Spanish & Catalan Music Gala 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 39 International Jazz Festival: Mavis Dan Baird & Homemade Sin vs. Staples + Dayna Kurtz Sala Apolo Jim Wilson Sala Apolo (Nou de la (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). (L2-L3). 32.50 €. Mavis Staples, one Country rock from two of the genre’s of the great icons of gospel and soul, greatest exponents. and the voice of the Staples Singers, is wowing new audiences on the strength of her latest releases. Wednesday 7 Flamenco Guided visit 9.30pm 11.30am (in Catalan) & 12.30pm Flamenco Nights at the (in Spanish). Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases FREE Guided tour of Poble Nou (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). cemetery Cementiri de Poblenou (Av. Mon-Sat 9.30pm. 20 €. Guitar, voice Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). A guided and cajón in one of the most beautiful tour of 19th-century Barcelona, as palaces of the Ribera district. reflected in the tombs and gravestones of the city’s great and good. Jazz 9pm Monday 5 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Michel Classical music Camilo & Tomatito L’Auditori 8.30pm (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Auryn Quartet Palau de la Música Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: From 18 to 45 €. Dominican pianist Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 18-27 €. Michel Camilo and Tomatito, one of The Auryn Quartet plays quartets by the greatest flamenco guitarists of Haydn, Schubert and Beethoven. all time, present ‘Spain Forever’ with interpretations of Chick Corea, Charlie Flamenco Haden, Astor Piazzolla and others. 6.45, 8.30, 10 & 11.30pm Pastora Galván, Gema Moneo Rock and Junco Tablao Flamenco Cordobés 8.30pm (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) Blind Melon Sala Apolo (Nou de la & Liceu (L3). The famous bailaors are Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). accompanied by up-and-coming artists. Classic American rock from the ’90s. Rock Thursday 8 9.30pm Rachel Arieff presents: Anti- Cinema karaoke Sala Apolo (Nou de la 8pm Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Xcèntric. The CCCB’s cinema A mutant hybrid of a rock concert, Centre de Cultura Contemporània underground karaoke party and de Barcelona (Montalegre, 5). M: cabaret. Catalunya (L1-L3). 25 Oct-20 Dec. Xcèntric focuses on experimental film and video. The new season opens with Tuesday, 6 a special programme dedicated to Catalan filmmaker Antoni Padrós, and Classical music continues with thematic programmes 8.30pm that draw on the experimental film Romina Lischka L’Auditori (Lepant, collections of the MoMA, the Centre 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental Georges Pompidou and Tate Modern, (L2) & Marina (L1). From 23 to 51 € with guest curators from each. Viola recital with works by Marais, de Visée and Couperin. Flamenco 6.45, 8.30, 10 & 11.30pm Rock Pastora Galván, Gema Moneo 8pm and Junco Tablao Flamenco Cordobés

40 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). & Liceu (L3). Famous bailaors are The Canadian DJ, producer and remixer accompanied by up-and-coming artists A-Trak shows why he is one of the most from the flamenco scene. sought-after artists in the business. Jazz Jazz 8.30pm 8.30pm 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Fred International Jazz Festival: Hersch Trio Conservatori del Liceu Dansonando Harlem Jazz Club (Nou de la Rambla, 88). M: Drassanes (Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8). M: (L3), Liceu (L3), Paral·lel (L2-L3). Drassanes (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 15 25 €. One of the most innovative €. Quintet of artists from La Havana pianists in contemporary jazz makes blends the elegance of classical his festival debut with the Fred Hersch instrumentation with Cuban folk. trio, presenting ‘Alive at the Vanguard’, recorded at the legendary Greenwich Village club. Pop 9pm 9pm 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Mariza International Jazz Festival: Milow Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de Artèria Paral·lel (Av. Paral·lel, 62). la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1- M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 20 & 25 €. A L4). From 18 to 54 €. The new queen chance to see Belgian DIY-pop singer- of the Portuguese singing tradition fado songwriter Jonathan Vandenbroeck. looks back on a career that began in the Mouraria neighbourhood of Lisbon. Soul 9.30pm Pop 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 9pm International Jazz Festival: Lee La Oreja de Van Gogh Artèria Fields & The Expressions Luz de Paral·lel (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L2-L3). From 26 to 45 €. The popular (L3-L5). 27 €. From Brooklyn – the Spanish group plays a benefit concert for mecca of 21st-century soul – comes Lee the CODESPA foundation, which works Fields, with his smooth take on funk, with communities in developing countries. soul and R&B. Punk Saturday 10 9pm The Gaslight Anthem Sala Apolo Electronic music (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel 12.30am (L2-L3). Underground U.S punk rockers Nitsa Club Sala Apolo (Nou de la promote their new album ‘Handwritten’. Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). The latest electronic music from Spanish Friday 9 and international DJs. Classical music Flamenco 9pm 6.45, 8.30, 10 & 11.30pm Concert Escolania de Montserrat Antonio ‘El Farru’, José La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Maya & Alfonso Losa Tablao Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). Flamenco Cordobés (La Rambla, 35). 12 €. A rare opportunity to hear the M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). The famous boys’ choir perform outside famous bailaors are accompanied their usual home, the monastery on by up-and-coming artists from the Montserrat. flamenco scene. Electronic music Jazz 12.30am 9pm Nitsa Club: A-Trak Sala Apolo (Nou 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 41 International Jazz Festival: Irène & Francis Jacob Luz de Gas Football (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3- League fixture. RCD Espanyol L5). 30 & 35 €. Art-house cinema vs. Osasuna Estadi Cornellà-ElPrat muse turned singer Irène Jacob (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100). Cornellà performs with brother Francis, a de Llobregat. Barcelona’s ‘other’ team composer with his finger on the pulse faces Osasuna in round 11 of La Liga. of world music, promoting their album ‘Je sais nager’. 9pm Guided visit 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 11am (in Catalan) & 11.15am (in International Jazz Festival: La Spanish) Locomotora Negra Palau de la FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Cemetery Cementiri de Montjuïc 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). From (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). Guided 18 to 48 €. A night of swing from this tour of this huge cemetery on the legendary Catalan jazz band. slopes of Montjuïc. Kids Jazz 11am, 12.30am & 4.30pm 8pm Zig Zag, Mini-Concerts at the 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Palau Palau de la Música Catalana International Jazz Festival: (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Paolo Fresu & Quartetto Alborada (L1-L4). T. 93 295 72 00. 6 € (adults, 14 L’Auditori Sala 2 Oriol Martorell (Lepant, €). For 1- to 2-yr-olds. 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 30 & 35 €. Perhaps one of the most lyrical trumpeters in Sunday 11 European jazz, Paolo Fresu presents his Al fresco personal project. 12pm FREE Human towers Carrer Blai Opera (Between Tapioles & Margarit). M: 5pm Poble Sec (L3) & Paral·lel (L2-L3). L’Elisir d’amore Gran Teatre del Gravity-defying human castles. Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). An opportunity to see ‘L’elisir d’amore’, one of Gaetano Donizetti’s Classical music most popular operas. 6pm Madrigals, Lieder and Chansons Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Rock de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona 8pm (L1-L4). 13 €. Works by Monteverdi, Calexico Sala Apolo (Nou de la Mendelssohn, Brahms, Debussy and Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). others. 28 € Alternative country rock from 9pm Tucson, Arizona. Manuel Barrueco, guitar Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). Monday 12 From 28 to 32 €. Guitar a the Palau with works by Bach, Granados, Albéniz Flamenco and others. 9.30pm Flamenco Nights at the Folk traditions 11.30am. FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral FREE! (Plaça de la Catedral). Traditional DOWNLOAD Catalan dance. 12pm TIME OUT BCN
FREE Sardanas Avinguda Gaudí. M: GUIDE Sagrada Família (L2-L5). Traditional Catalan dance.

42 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Sat 9.30pm. 20 €. Guitar, singing and cajón playing in one of the most beautiful medieval palaces of the Ribera district. Pop 19.30pm Andrew Bird Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3) From 24 to 27 €. Classically trained multi-instrumentalist indie singer- ARCHITOUR, architecture & city songwriter promotes new album ‘Break routes, introduces the Gothic it Yourself’. Quarter by Night. Thursdays 7 pm, Canaletes Fountain. For this Tuesday, 13 and other routes, contact: [email protected] / Classical music 938834184 / www.architour.es 8.30pm Khatia Buniatishvili, piano Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2- Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). L3). Veteran Canadian alternative From 11 to 56 €. One of the most country group. talented pianists of the moment, blazing a trail on the international scene. She plays works from the Jazz romantic piano repertoire. 9.30pm 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Maria Flamenco de Medeiros Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 6.45, 8.30, 10 & 11.30pm 246). M: Diagonal (L3-L5). 30 €. Antonio ‘El Farru’, José Maya Portuguese film star Maria de Medeiros & lfonso Losa Flamenco Cordobés promotes her most recent work. (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Famous bailaors are accompanied by up-and-coming artists. Pop 9.30pm 9pm Opera and Flamenco Teatre 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: International Jazz Festival: Catalunya (L1-L3). From 30 to 45 Van Dyke Parks L’Auditori Sala 2 €. This innovative show mixes opera, Oriol Martorell (Lepant, 150). M: the Spanish tradition of ‘zarzuela’ – Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & a Spanish opera for the working classes, Marina (L1). 40 €. Composer, producer with spoken parts – and flamenco music. and musician: a living legend who revolutionised pop. Pop 8pm Thursday 15 Final Sona 9: Nyandú + The Mamzelles Sala Apolo (Nou de la Classical music Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 10pm Closing concert of Sona 9, the biggest Opera Nights at the Palau platform for up-and-coming groups Dalmases Palau Dalmases from the Catalan music scene. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). 20 € Live opera in one of the most beautiful palaces of the Ribera district. Wednesday 14 8.30pm Rafal Blechacz, piano L’Auditori Country (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), 9.30pm Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 28 Cowboy Junkies Sala Apolo (Nou €. Works by Bach, Beethoven, Debussy

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 43 and Szymanowski. One of the greatest jazz vocalists of the 21st century presents ‘The Absence’. 8.30pm Instrumental 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 8pm International Jazz Festival: Tamar Ben Kweller Sala Apolo (Nou de la McLeod Sinclair Harlem Jazz Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Club (Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8). M: Young multi-instrumentalist from San Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4). 15 €. Francisco gives his only concert in Tamar McLeod Sinclair has turned Spain. his travels around the world into song. ‘The Heart Notes’ is his debut. Jazz 9pm Metal 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 8pm International Jazz Festival: Tommy Trivium Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Emmanuel Artèria Paral·lel (Av. 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). US heavy Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 30 €. rockers. One of the most versatile guitarists in the world, a veritable institution in his home country of Australia. Others From 8pm 24 hrs at the Barcelona Singer-songwriter Motorbike Museum Museu de la 9pm Moto (Palla, 10). Ismael Serrano Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la The Música, 4-6). M: Centre Saturday 17 Urquinaona (L1-L4). de Cultura From 14.50 to 37.50 €. Contemporània de Classical music Singer-songwriter from Barcelona’s annual 7pm Madrid promotes his festival of indie , Coral Cantiga Palau album, ‘Todo empieza y cinema, L’Alternativa de la Música Catalana todo acaba en ti’. takes place from (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Wednesday 21 to Sunday 25. M: Urquinaona (L1-L4) From 17 to 28 €. Works by Friday 16 Mendelssohn and Mozart. 7pm Blues The OBC and Marion Cotillard 5-6pm L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Blues and Jazz at Palau Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). From Gomis – MEAM MEAM: Museu 39 to 73 €. The Barcelona Symphonic Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Orchestra and French actress and Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 9 €. singer Marion Cotillard perform Swiss composer Arthur Honegger’s ‘Joan of Flamenco Arc at the Stake’ (1938). 7pm Opera and Flamenco Teatre Electronic music Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: 12.30am Catalunya (L1-L3). From 30 to 45 €. Nitsa Club Sala Apolo (Nou de la This innovative show mixes opera, Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). the Spanish tradition of ‘zarzuela’ –a Spanish opera for the working-classes – and flamenco music. Folk traditions 6.30pm FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Jazz (Plaça de la Catedral). Traditional 9pm Catalan dance. 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Melody Gardot Palau de la Música Flamenco Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 9.30pm Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 18 to 54 €. Flamenco Nights at the

44 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20). 20 €. Sunday 18th Al fresco Jazz 12pm 9pm FREE Human towers Plaça de la Vila 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona de Gràcia. M: Fontana (L3). International Jazz Festival: China Moses Artèria Paral·lel (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 25 & 30 €. Atletisme China Moses presents ‘Crazy Blues’, a 9am homage to the great female voices. 89th Jean Bouin Avinguda Rius i Taulet Race Open; 1pm, Jean Bouin for professionals. Others First established in 1920 by sports Until 8pm journalists and professional runners, 24 hrs at the Barcelona the oldest running race in Spain is still Motorbike Museum (Carrer de la going strong 89 years later. Palla, 10). Fado Singer-songwriter 7pm 9pm 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Al Bano Gran Teatre del Liceu (La International Jazz Festival: Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). From Carminho Artèria Paral·lel (Av. 10 to 63.60 €. Legendary italian Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 28 singer Al Bano, who during a forty & 35 €. One of the most talented and year’s career span has achieved great innovative names in contemporary fado numbers in Eurovision, will sing his is playing in the theater district. Go bar greatest hits, such as ‘Felicitá’. hoping after the show.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 45 Barcelona. So get ready to rock and roll Folk traditions along with a hipster crownd drowning in 11.30am piercings and tattos. FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral (Plaça de la Catedral). Traditional Catalan dance. Tuesday, 20 Flamenco Flamenco 9.30pm 9.30pm Flamenco Nights at the Gran Gala Flamenco Palau de la Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, (Montcada, 20). 20 €. 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 30 to 45 €. Guitar 9pm Football The Art of the Guitar. League fixture. FC Barcelona- ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna Saragossa Camp Nou (Aristides (Santa Anna, 29). 21 €. Maillol, s/n). League fixture. FC Barcelona vs. Zaragoza Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Barcelona take Indie on Zaragoza in round 12 of La Liga. 12am Crappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Guided visit Indie pop and electronica club night. 11.30am (in Catalan) & 12.30pm (in Spanish). FREE Guided tour of Poble Nou Jazz cemetery Cementiri de Poblenou (Av. 9pm Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Sonny Rollins Palau de la Música Motocross Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 6pm Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 30 to 85 Solo XI Barcelona International €. Sonny Rollins is the greatest jazz Free Style Masters Palau Sant Jordi saxophonist in the world. (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1-L3- FGC). Motocross show. Wednesday 21 Opera Cinema 5pm L’Alternativa. Barcelona’s 19th L’Elisir d’amore Gran Teatre del Festival of Independent Cinema Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu Centre de Cultura Contemporània (L3). One of Donizetti’s most popular de Barcelona (Montalegre, 5). M: operas. Catalunya (L1-L3). 21-25 Nov. Festival of independent cinema featuring more Rock than 200 films from all round the world. 8pm Cobra + Hora Zulu Sala Apolo (Nou Funk de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2- 12am L3). From the Basque Country, Cobra Los Putos Miércoles Sala Apolo play a blend of rock and metal. (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Funk, disco, soul, r’n’b and live Monday 19th hip-hop from Se Atormenta Una Vecina. Rock Jazz 12am 9pm Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Int. la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Jazz Festival: The Earth, Wind & The city’s wildest Monday night party in Fire Experience ft. Al McKay Artèria

46 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 Paral·lel (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 35 & 45 €. The legendary ’70s Friday 23 funk, soul, disco and jazz combo with New Orleans jazz guitarist Al Mckay. Classical music 8.30pm Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin. World music ‘The Magic Flute’ – René Jacobs 9pm Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). International Jazz Festival: Buena From 28 to 196 €. Mozart, in a concert Vista Social Club Orchestra version conducted by René Jacobs. ft. Omara Portuondo Palau de la 9pm Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, The Art of the Guitar. ‘Carmen’ 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 20 Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, to 56.50 €. An institution in the world 29). 21 €. The Spanish guitar in concert. of Cuban music. Flamenco Thursday 22 8pm Farruquito Sala Apolo (Nou de la Indie Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 8pm The renowned flamencobailaor is Bat for Lashes Sala Apolo (Nou de controversial –he run away after la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). running over a passer-by, all of this Brighton’s Natasha Khan, a singer- without a driving license– but he is also songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, a dancing genius. heir apparent to Kate Bush, promotes 9.30pm new album ‘The Haunted Man’, which Flamenco Nights at the is brand new: it was published on 15th Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases october. (Montcada, 20). 20 €.

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 47 – Getafe Estadi Cornellà-ElPrat (Av. Saturday 24 del Baix Llobregat, 100). Cornellà de Electronic music Llobrega. 12.30am Nitsa Club: Numbers Sala Apolo Gospel (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel 7pm (L2-L3). Numbers play Nitsa Club Non-Stop Gospel L’Auditori Sala 1 with a DJ set from Jackmaster & Space Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Dimension Controller. (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). From 15 to 45 €. Jazz 9.30pm Jazz 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona 8pm International Jazz Festival: Carles 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Benavent. ‘Un, dos, tres…’ Luz de International Jazz Festival: Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal Christian Scott Quintet Luz de Gas (L3-L5). 25 €. The Catalan jazzman (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3-L5). presents his latest album. 35 €. New Orleans trumpeter presents 9pm one of the most groundbreaking jazz Diana Krall L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau albums of the year. Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), 8pm Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). From Jazz & Swing Sala Apolo (Nou de la 72 to 90 €. Canadian pianist and singer Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3).The gives this years’ only concert in Spain. Barcelona Jazz Orchestra transports the Sala Apolo to another era. As well as lovers of jazz and swing big band will be Rock playing to more than a hundred dancers, 8.30pm ready to turn the concert into a party. 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona International Jazz Festival: Francesco Bearzatti Tinissima Monday 26 Quartet L’Auditori Sala 3 (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental Flamenco (L2) & Marina (L1). 25 €. The Italian 9.30pm saxophonist hailed by the French Flamenco Nights at the Académie du Jazz as the best jazz artist Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases in Europe, presents an album dedicated (Montcada, 20). 20 €. to the great Thelonius Monk. ‘Monk & Roll’ takes the work of the bebop genius into the world of rock, from The Knack Rock to Queen and Aerosmith. 12am Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de Sunday 25 la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Al fresco Tuesday, 27 12pm FREE Human towers Plaça d’Orfila. Flamenco M: Sant Andreu (L1). . 9.30pm Opera y Flamenco Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Folk traditions Catalunya (L1-L3). From 30 to 45 €. 12pm FREE Giants La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença (FGC) & Indie Diagonal (L3-L5). Street spectacle 12am involving the ‘giants’ of La Pedrera, Crappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de to celebrate its hundredth anniversary. la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Football Jazz League fixture. RCD Espanyol 9pm

48 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona Qvixote Quartet Palau de la Música International Jazz Festival: Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Fanfare Ciocarlia Luz de Gas Urquinaona (L1-L4). 11 €. Works by (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3-L5). Santamant, Ravel and Schumann. 30 €. Trumpets and tubas with this legendary gypsy band from Romania. Pop 9pm Wednesday 28 Alejandro Sanz Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Classical music Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 30 to 160 €. 8.30pm Spanish balladeer plays the Palau Early music concert with To to promote his new album. Jordi Savall La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). mark the M: Provença (FGC) & 25th anniversary Friday 30 of the Barcelona Bus Diagonal (L3-L5). 12 you can visit €. A chance to hear the Turístic Electronic this exhibition (Diagonal master of the Spanish Metro Station), music viol, a major figure in the combining the Bus, world of early music. the FC Barcelona 12.30am and the city’s his- Nitsa Club: Ellen tory. Allien Sala Apolo (Nou de Jazz la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel 9pm (L2-L3).The best new electronic 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona music from label Bpitch Control. International Jazz Festival: Brad Mehldau Trio L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) and Jazz Marina (L1). From 18 to 48 €. The trio 9pm led by one of the most influential jazz 44th Voll-Damm Barcelona pianists of recent decades. International Jazz Festival: Chick Corea Trio Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Pop Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 18 to 54 9pm €. A living legend in the world of jazz Alejandro Sanz Palau de la Música plays the festival’s closing concert. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). From 30 and 160 €. Spanish balladeer debuts at the Pop Palau to promote his new album. 9.30pm Coti Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). World music M: Diagonal (L3-L5). 17 €. The Argentinean singer Coti performs his 12.30am greatest hits. Caníbal Sound System Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). World music as you’ve never Singer-songwriter heard it before. 9pm Raimon Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Veteran Thursday 29 Valencian singer-songwriter who began his career as a protest singer, reviews a Classical music lifetime in song. 10pm Opera Nights at the Palau Dalmases Palau Dalmases INFORMATION (Montcada, 20). 20 €. 8.30pm AND SALES Casals Quartet L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1).28 €. Works by Tourist Information Points and Haydn, Schubert and Shostakovitch. www.barcelonaturisme.cat 8.30pm

November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 49 Sights

Imax Port Vell Architecture (Moll d’Espanya). M: Drassanes (L3) Basílica de la Sagrada Família & Barceloneta (L4). 93 225 11 11. (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família Check times and programme at www. (L2-L5). 93 20 804 14 9am-8pm. 13 imaxportvell.com. 8.70 €. Put on your €. Barcelona’s most iconic building, glasses, and take a seat for the most begun by Antoni Gaudí in 1891 and exciting virtual reality experience that which remains unfinished to this day. the latest 3-D technology can provide, Ticket sales help fund the ongoing in Barcelona’s best-equipped large- construction works. The most visited format cinema. tourist attraction in Spain. G Experiència Casa Batlló (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). 93 285 (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de 44 40. 10am-8pm. 9 €. Reduced: 7.5 €. Gràcia (L3-L4). 93 216 03 06. 9am- Only 150 yards from the steps of Park 9pm. 18.15 €. Late night visit, 29€. Güell, you’ll find a doorway that takes Another of Gaudì’s most emblematic you inside the mind of Antoni Gaudí. works. Spaces include the former A fascinating interactive exhibition residence of the Batlló family, the roof designed to help you understand the terrace with its decorated chimneys, creative genius of Barcelona’s most (and the scaly spine of the dragon famous architect. defeated by Saint George,) and the marine-themed light well. The tour Tibidabo Funfair ends with the stunning entrance hall (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). T. 93 211 79 and main staircase. 42. Wed-Sun, 12am-11pm. 25,20 € (Those under 120cm, 9 €). With over a La Pedrera hundred years of history, Tibidabo is (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal one of the oldest funfairs in the world, (L3-L5). 902 400 973. 9am-8pm. featuring classic rides, old favourites 16.50 €. Reduced entrance, 14.85 and brand new attractions to €. The building many Barcelona guarantee an exciting day out. residents consider to be Gaudí’s masterpiece – the roof terrace is one of Port Aventura the joys of Modernisme. Some of its (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. Vila apartments are still private homes. Seca (Tarragona)). Train: Port Aventura. T. 977 779 000. Palau Güell PortAventura is a theme park located (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes south of Barcelona, between Vila-seca (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). 93 472 57 75. and Salou. Six themed zones Tue-Thur, 10am-8pm. 10 €. Reduced: (Mediterranean, Far West, Mexico, 8 € Built by Gaudí in the late 19th China, Polynesia & SésamoAventura) century, this mansion belonged to his occupy 119 hectares, with 30 main patron. The roof terrace is the attractions, 100 live processions daily, highlight, but the whole house is a 75 places to eat and 27 craft and fascinating introduction to Gaudí’s souvenir shops. revolutionary use of materials and space. Zoo de Barcelona (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Arc de Leisure Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/Vila Aire de Barcelona, Arab Baths Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 67 80. 1-15 (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Barceloneta Sept: 10-19 h. 16 Sept-29 d’octubre: (L4) & Jaume I (L4). Mon-Thur: first 10-18 h. 17 €. Infantil (3-12 anys): session: 10am. Fri, Sat & Sun: first 10.20 €. Barcelona Zoo, in Ciutadella session, 8am. Wed, Thu, Fri. & Sat: Park, has a 100-year history and is one last session, midnight-2am.Aire de of the city’s best-loved attractions. At Barcelona is in the Born, and recreates present it houses 315 species and more a traditional hammam. than 2,000 animals.

50 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012