PLUS! GAUDÍ’S CREATIONS, SPICY FOOD FOR COLD DAYS, INCREDIBLE INVENTIONS

Right now in Barcelona, see a host of incredible artworks – but be quick, they’re not here for long

JAN 4,95€ 2016 #014 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Time Out Barcelona English Edition The Best January 2016 Discover some of the amazing creations of BCN inventors have produced to help our species deal with the future p. 28

Features 14. Unmissable art Thanks to a once-in-a-blue-moon coincidence, Barcelona is currently full of masterpieces, brought for various temporary exhibitions. Eugènia Sendra and Andreu Gomila reveal which you should see. 22. Gaudí’s genius Barcelona is full of spectacular work by the Catalan architect. Abby Narishkin guides us around his buildings, both big and small. 26. Tongue-burningly good With this month’s cool temperatures, why not try some of the city’s spiciest dishes? Ricard Martín gets his glass of milk ready. 28. Looking into the future Maria Junyent takes a trip to the CCCB’s latest exhibition, + Humans, which explores how our species might be living in the years to come. Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 61. LGBT 62. Clubs

64. Getaways CAL PEP Enter the wonderfully imaginative world of Antoni Check out some of the city’s best omelettes, 66. BCN Top Ten Gaudí and discover his Barcelona landmarks p. 22 from the traditional to seasonal specials p. 58

Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Printer LitograƁa Rosés Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Josep Legal deposit B-26040-2014 Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manuel Pérez | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván Moreno, Abby IRISNEGRO Narishkin, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2016

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 3 The BCN_JAN 2016 hot list FRIDAY SATURDAY 01 02 Classical music Contemporary circus Gran Concert d’Any Nou Varekai Start 2016 with Strauss Cirque du Soleil touring and ballet. See p. 44 show arrives. See p. 43

SUNDAY TUESDAY THURSDAY 03 05 07 Football Traditions Classical music Barça vs. Espanyol Cavalcada de Reis Gustavo Dudamel Local derby at Camp The Three Kings come The star conductor is at Nou. See p. 37 bearing gifts. See p. 37 the Palau. See p. 45

Torneig Internacional d’Hoquei de Reis. World-class Sant Pau Recinte Modernista. Take a tour of one of DON’T MISS! hockey players compete. SUN 03-WED 06 (see p. 36) Barcelona’s many architectural gems. FRI 08 (see p. 38)

SUNDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY MONDAY 10 14 15 18 Musical theatre Cinema Catalan music Flamenco Mamma Mía Xcentric Lluís Llach Niña Pastori Enjoy Abba’s hit show in A new Ɓlm series on at Popular local musician Show by Spanish singer- Spanish. See p. 53 the CCCB. See p. 39 performs. See p. 47 songwriter. See p. 48

TUESDAY SUNDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 19 24 30 31 Theatre Classical music Pop music Football BITS Sir John Eliot Gardiner Bryan Adams Barça vs. Atlético Enjoy mime from Catalan British conductor leads The Canadian star visits The local side take on the trio Tricicle. See p. 43 Mozart concert. See p. 43 Barcelona. See p. 49 Madrid team. See p. 40

4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 5 People of Barcelona Ravid Goldschmidt BCN: Handpan musician, 35 years old TOP SECRET

By Begoña García ;QWoTGVJGƁTUVRGTUQP interviewed for this page who wasn’t born in a city or village. _In Sant Andreu, Barcelona is the Ɓ rst city I’ve lived in. I grew up on a kibbutz, a place the church of Sant where you live in a community and Pacià (C/ de les everybody has a job. For example, buying food, cooking, cleaning – Monges, 27) has all these tasks are done by people COQUCKEƂQQT with that particular role, which means free time can be dedicated designed by a to culture, art and sport. young Gaudí. You’re known for playing the _The fountain Hang – what is that? in Pl. Sant Jordi A melodic percussion instrument, like the marimba, which was (Montjuïc) of Ceres, invented in Switzerland around Roman goddess of 2001. In fact, Hang is a brand, the instrument is the handpan. agriculture, was Ɓ rst I went to Bern to learn how to play erected in Pg. de it, and when I Ɓ nished, as I’d been thinking about doing the Camino Gràcia. It was later de Santiago and a friend was IRENE FERNÁNDEZ moved to Poble-sec living in Barcelona, I came here. When I returned from the Camino, Can you play any style of music but was deemed too I decided to stay. with the handpan? big for the space. Yes, even if each instrument is in And you got to know the local a different tone so one might Ɓ t, _Take a walk in music scene. for example, with Arabic music Yes, playing with street but not Hindi. That’s why you the foothills of musicians in the Barri Gòtic. need to have a few. Collserola park Later I met Carles Benavent, Toni Xuclà and Sílvia Pérez Cruz, who AN OBJECT – You created a digital handpan. (Camì de Sant was singing in a squat. I said to MARBLE TABLE It’s complicated to travel with Cebrià, Montbau myself, ‘That girl’s good’, and we With iron legs, such as you’ll find three or four Hang, and the ended up doing a record in many local bars. Typical to solution was to create one that neighbourhood) together, Llama. I was lucky. Barcelona, he says. could be adapted to each tone, to visit the 13th- and produces various sounds – Playing an unusual instrument guitar, water, etc. It’s called the century hermitage makes you stand out. Oval and I made it with a friend. of Sant Cebrià. Not being a guitarist or saxophonist has helped me. Now that you’re a businessman, _Pass by Rosselló, People have no way of judging do you still feel like a musician? 425, round the whether I’m playing well or not! Yes, I play in TaHaDi, a trio of tabla, didgeridoo and handpan. I’ve also corner from the On the other hand, you don’t have PLACE OF ORIGIN – worked on the new Chambao Sagrada Família, any inspirations or guidelines. NETZER SIRENI album and I’m going to do some No, I’ve had to invent them. For In central Israel, this is a community live shows with them next year. I to Ɓ nd a nameless instance, one cold day I tried where the notion of family takes have another project with a singer street lined with playing with gloves on, and I a back seat. in the works, although I don’t thought it sounded better. Ever know yet if it’ll be with Sílvia or one-storey houses. since, I’ve played wearing gloves. somebody else. We’ll see. And other musicians do it as well. –Jordi Bianciotto

6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com I love BCN Parc del Laberint Pg. dels Castanyers,11

Challenge yourself to complete this What am I maze, which is set in Barcelona’s oldest gardens, high above the city. doing here?

Jan Fleischer Gaudí: great or gaudy?

The Ɓ rst time I visited Barcelona as a tourist, a clerk in a souvenir shop told me, ‘Me encanta Gaudí’, with a big smile on her face and her hand resting sincerely over her heart. That’s how I learned the useful phrase ‘me encanta’ (‘I love it’), and it was the Ɓ rst time I met a local who was such a fan of possibly the most famous Catalan architect ever. You’ll still meet them, but you might also hear locals pooh-poohing the works of Antoni Gaudí, or saying nowadays these buildings are just for tourists and you can’t even get into Park Güell for free anymore, for crying out loud. I’ve even heard visitors saying, ‘Oh, the Sagrada Família? That old monstrosity?’ And I’ve been asked more than once if the English word gaudy comes from Gaudí’s surname. (It doesn’t.) Love them, tolerate them or hate them, Gaudí’s buildings mark any visit to Barcelona. The biggies draw you in whether you like it or not – the Sagrada Família, La Pedrera and Casa Batlló. These are the obvious places to start on your Gaudí journey; you might also know that Park Güell is a stunner not to be missed, while others in and around town you may not be as familiar with. If you’re an aƁ cionado you’ll be WTF IS... happy to discover them (see page Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer 22). I’m a big fan of the rooftops of La Pedrera and Palau Güell. But like some of you, I’ve still got more to explore. So make notes on your map, plan out your route, and enjoy Bikini the wonders of Gaudí’s creations. Or wear blinders and do your best to avoid them. Not only a two-piece bathing suit, in this city a bikini (or biquini) is also a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. Said to get its name from the Bikini Jan loves seeing the nightclub when this was its signature dish, it’s called a mixto out of town. Sagrada Família progress

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 7 This tribute to Roman Barcelona is by the Gothic Cathedral. 48 HRS IN BARCELONA

Casa Batlló’s fantastical façade is a must-see.

Sant Pere de les Puel·les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agustí Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Gothic Cathedral just you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big off Via Laietana. It’s at least 1,500 shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to take breakfast among the tree-lined years old and has recently home. As you’re strolling around, Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Eixample Esquerre. undergone extensive renovation keep an eye out for The Box Chino’, the Raval has inspired El Velódromo (Muntaner, 213) works. From there you can stop in (Brosolí, 8), set up by three clothes many a writer. Nowadays, opens at 6am, for those of you at the spectacular Santa Maria del designers; On Land (Princesa, 25), it’s a place where local really keen to get going, while Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1). where both men and women can businesses thrive in the Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189) Next, head to El Born Centre Ɓnd new threads; and Studiostore form of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and Cultural (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron (Comerç, 17), with everything from restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet and glass structure built in 1876 clothes and eyewear to original maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once as a market. Just a few minutes cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, away, you’ll come to Parc de la Street culture is booming jump on public transport and Ciutadella, the largest park in the here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural city (Pg. Lluís Companys, 2). 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book on There’s a lot going on there, with a It’s time to eat www.parkguell.cat/en to ensure boating lake, children’s park and For dinner, try the Asian tapas at you get in to the ‘monumental’ Barcelona Zoo among the Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll but can graze from 17 different food zone and save a euro. Bonus! attractions. If you’re visiting with melt in your mouth. Always a sure ‘stalls’. To top off the night, head in kids, it’s ideal for a run around. thing is a meal in one of the city’s the direction of the sea and have a fresh markets, such as Santa drink in Absenta (Sant Carles, 36) 12:00-14:00 Caterina (Av. Francesc Cambó, 16) to be sure of getting a good night’s Gracious living 17:00-19:30 with its attention-drawing rooftop, or sleep, or try the more upscale Grab a bite down the hill in Sustenance and shopping try Mercat Princesa (Flassaders, Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg. Joan de Gràcia, at the woodsy and Stop for a break in one of the Born’s 21), where you don’t have to limit Borbó, 69) or Café de los Angelitos spacious Café Salambó lesser-known squares, such as your choice to just one restaurant (Almirall Cervera, 26). (Torrijos, 51) or at La Pubilla

DODID YOU YOU KNOW? KNOW? JanuaryUt qui ne 17 nonseque is the feast quatium day of facepelibus Sant Antoni, velleni local patron hillanduscid of animals, quo et and moluptatur? sees some Nem pets quiamettaken to autchurch dolorep to be erferov blessed.

8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS

At the Zoo you’ll find this statue of ‘Woman with umbrella’.

(Pl. de la Llibertat, 23), (Diagonal, 332). Alternatively, plentiful gardens, such as the specialising in old-school local take L5 of the metro from the 19:30-02:00 Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa Madrona, food or, if the weather’s nice, in a Sagrada Família station to the Big night out 2). Another highlight is the Museu square such as Plaça del Diagonal stop and stroll down Try the out-of-this-world double Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Diamant or Plaça de la Vila de Passeig de Gràcia to hit the terrace of Invisible–Pizza Ravalo (MNAC), with its ample collections Gràcia. While you’re in the area, modernisme biggies: La Pedrera (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa and varied temporary exhibitions. have a look around for some (Provença, 261), Casa Amatller Carles for a healthy vegetarian unusual souvenirs in the shop- (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and Casa option (Jovellanos, 2), or the lined streets – suggestions Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). Mediterranean banquet that is Lo 13:00-15:00 include Boo for clothes de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining End on a beach spot (Bonavista, 2) and Mueblé your stomach, get a couple of drinks Take the cable car from Montjuïc to (Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the bar- Barceloneta, with its beaches and homewares. laden street of Joaquín Costa (46 boats, where you can relax with a WANDER OFF and 39, respectively), and then vermouth and a paella. Most ease on down to the dance Ƃoors at restaurants in Barceloneta 14:30-18:00 Many visitors stick to the Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113) specialise in seafood, taking Explore modernisme centre, but the city is so much and/or Marula (Escudillers, 39). advantage of the nearby Med. The Next stop: the Sagrada Família. more. Gràcia is full of life at all prime real estate means some of Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very hours of the day, Sarrià the better spots aren’t cheap, but if crowded, but it’s worth taking retains much of its small-town 10:00-12:00 you’re feeling Ƃush, they’re worth it. your time to appreciate his feel, while Poble-sec and Sant Mountain climbing Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La vision. Afterwards, walk over to Antoni are currently the Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) Av. Diagonal to keep the places to be, thanks to their Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan modernisme theme going by top cuisine and quality mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró de Borbó, 65). A great place for the taking a look at Casa de les nightlife. And don’t forget the Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), more budget-conscious, with a Punxes (Rosselló, 260), Palau modernista beauty that is the the Olympic Stadium and other huge terrace and fresh, scrummy del Baró de Quadras (Diagonal, former Sant Pau hospital. nearby constructions from the dishes to go with their relaxed vibe, 373) and Casa Planells 1992 Games, or walk around the is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).

SantUt qui Antoni ne nonseque is also marked quatium by facepelibus processions velleni (called hillanduscid the Tres Tombs, quo etor moluptatur?‘three turns’), Nem which quiamet include aut elaborately dolorep erferov decorated horse-drawn carriages.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 9 Tourism Desk

Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes

Barcelona SkiBus. From the city to the slopes Make the most of the ski levels, as well as 39 ski lifts. resorts near Barcelona! Jump aboard the SkiBus and If you’re a fan of the slopes, you’ll Ɓnd yourself take advantage of your visit swooshing along in a to Barcelona to enjoy a matchless natural setting snowy getaway in the nearby quicker than you can Pyrenees. The Barcelona imagine. Because, don’t SkiBus will take you to forget, Barcelona also Catalonia’s largest skiable means snow. area, Alp 2500, which has a vertical drop of 935 metres Buy your tickets at: and 117 runs to suit all tickets.visitbarcelona.com Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the cosmopolitan city that offers city centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You will be and gastronomic excursions; CULTURE FOR EVERYONE surprised at what you can Ɓnd panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the tickets. tours or themed routes through visitbarcelona.com website and speciƁc districts; cooking the Turisme de Barcelona Tourist workshops, wine and chocolate Information Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for There are many ways to visit the little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings like the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música, or to museums, taking partner – and a multitude of advantage of the ArTicket or reasons to come here: the Barcelona multi-tickets, with culture, cuisine, music, art... free transport and discounts; Whether you’re planning to and babysitting services, see the best-known attractions wheelchair, pram and pushchair Museums Unique spaces or you’re looking for a truly hire, in addition to the standard Take a look at Barcelona’s world- Visit the city’s outstanding special experience, at tickets. left-luggage services and renowned museums and iconic buildings, recognised for their visitbarcelona.com you will Ɓnd airport transfers. landmarks. Art, history, architectural and historical more than 200 suggestions to There are many Barcelonas to archaeology, science – these functionality and values. They suit a wide range of tastes. explore. Which one is yours? museums are centres of culture include Gaudí’s works, churches, You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of and knowledge. Don’t miss out! concert venues and more. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Buy your tickets at tickets.visitbarcelona.com guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the tickets.visitbarcelona.com

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Savour ƁPGFKPKPI Book a table through our website and enjoy Barcelona’s most exquisite restaurants. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

Barcelona half-day bike tour Live the Barça experience Saddle up and learn about the history of Enjoy a football match at Camp Nou and see Barcelona on a city bike tour. some of the world’s best players in action. Have fun and socialise, get some exercise and be entertained by your Feel the incredible atmosphere of an FC Barcelona football match. This knowledgeable English-speaking guide – all the ingredients for a unique visit, which includes a private round-trip transfer, is a must for any memorable Barcelona adventure. true soccer fan.

Buy your tickets for Barcelona half-day bike tours, and discover other top Book your tickets online for Barcelona sights and attractions at ideas for exploring the city at www.timeout.com/barcelona. www.timeout.com/barcelona, and don’t miss a thing.

12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 13 They’re

GREAT

ART By Andreu Gomila & Eugènia Sendra hereIN BCN

n the book Paraules locales (Local renowned museums such as the Pompidou and private house. And as we can’t go into the Words), Catalan artist Perejaume says the MoMA. It’s true that the basement of homes of collectors, we invite you to forget that contemporary artists have CaixaForum houses one of the best art about time but not space, and enjoy these produced too many works, that the collections in the world. It’s also true that right unmissable works of art. As The Smiths sang, creation of so many great pieces of art now in the city there’s a collection of some are bigger than others (although, yes, is untenable. There’s no doubt that La masterpieces on show that makes it feel like a they were talking about girls), but they’re all Gioconda and Las Meninas are kind of special astral coincidence. From the spectacular. A few on the list are being shown in masterpieces. As are Margot and sketches of Charles Le Brun for the palace of Barcelona for a few more days or weeks, while Science and Charity by Pablo Picasso, which Versailles to colour-Ɓlled pieces from the end of others are here all month and beyond. Ican be seen any time in Barcelona’s Museu the 19th century, from the art of the pharaohs Whatever you do, be sure you don’t miss this Picasso, and Es compta darrere l’os – Espai de to the Arte Povera of Michelangelo Pistoletto, unique coming together of true masterpieces. dolor, the Joseph Bueys installation found at and from the passion of Picasso for El Greco to CaixaForum, and the Pantocràtor from the town the natural sculptures of Louise Bourgeois, this 01. GOING BACK (1965) of Taüll in the Catalan Pyrenees, which is now is serious stuff. SALVADOR DALÍ housed in the MNAC. These are pieces that We’ve selected eight works from the In 1965, Dalí reached an agreement with US clothes have won the consensus of the critics and temporary exhibitions running now in Barcelona manufacturer Jack A. Winter to design a line of clothing. The academics, and even the public, who will stand to create a journey through history via the world painter did his part, and the sketches were put on public in lengthy queues to see them and witness their of art. You just have to open your eyes. We display, but the collection itselfwas never produced. The greatness. shouldn’t forget the words of Walter Benjamin: designs were clearly ahead of their time, and they While Barcelona has given great artists to the ‘Even the most perfect work of art is missing demonstrate the famous Dalí imagination. This is Dalí the world, without a central government, without something – its presence in time and space, its publicist. Until Feb 29. the economic strength of Paris, Madrid, London unique existence in the place where something Galeria Mayoral (Consell de Cent, 286) and New York, the city has not created globally is happening.’ That means a museum or a

14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 01 PHOTO SÒNIA ROS. GALERIA MAYORAL PHOTO SÒNIA ROS.

Barcelona is surprisingly bereft of permanent displays of art by Dalí. you’ll find a splendid testament to the man’s extravagant MORE WORKS... However, if you head north towards France and the town of Figueres, imagination, the Museu-Teatre Dalí. www.salvador-dali.org

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 15 02.PORTRAIT D’UNE DANSEUSE (1928) JOAN MIRÓ Miró learnt to paint on the basis of touching objects and, after he announced the assassination of painting, gave 02 himself over to assemblage and surprising compositions. André Breton acquired this ‘sculpture’ – a parody of a Spanish dancer – created with a piece of cork, a pin and a peacock feather, which is an excellent example of Max Ernst’s definition of surrealist collage. Until Jan 17. Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n)

03. SENZA TITOLO 92 (1976) MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO ‘Cento mostre nel mese di ottobre’ is a square book, unfinished and alive. At the end of the ’70s, the Italian Michelangelo Pistoletto collected different suggestions for the use of space in the book, such as 92, these mountains of white and coloured clothing, separated by a mirror, a metaphor for diversity and difference that the artist had recommended embracing. Until Mar 27. Blueproject Foundation (Princesa, 57)

04. RETRAT D’UN HOME AMB GORGERA. VARIACIÓ INSPIRADA EN EL GRECO (1962) PABLO PICASSO At the start of the 20th century, Picasso was fired up by the elongated portraits of gentlemen produced by El Greco during the Spanish Golden Age. This later Picasso work, the final engraving in a series, shows that his admiration for El Greco wasn’t just a phase or youthful exuberance. It lasted a lifetime. Until Jan 17. Museu Picasso (Montcada, 15-23)

05. PLAT DE MAGRANES (1629-31) JUAN VAN DER HAMEN An appetising composition full of references regarding virtue and the passing of time. A breath of Dutch baroque that is captivating in its simplicity and naturalism. While JOAN MIRÓ PORTRAIT D’UNE DANSEUSE SURO, PLOMA I AGULLA FIXOS EN EL PANELL DE FUSTA AMB RIPOLIN 100 X 80 CM CENTRE POMPIDOU, PARÍS. MUSÉE NATIONAL D’ART MODERNE / CENTRE DE CRÉATION INDUSTRIELLE. REGAL D’AUBE BRETON-ELLÉOUËT, 2003 © CENTRE POMPIDOU, MNAM-CCI, DIST RMN-GRAND PALAIS/PHILIPPE MIGEAT © SUCCESSIÓ MIRÓ, 2015 there are doubts about who created the image, it seems that whoever the painter was they were testing out methods for more flowery still lifes, the type appreciated by collectors in Spain’s Golden Age. Until Feb 28. MNAC (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n) 03

At the Museu Picasso hangs El Greco’s ‘Old Gentleman’ (1587-1600), the painting that inspired Pablo Picasso’s own ‘Man in the Style of El Greco’, (1900). It’s a reminder of the passion that El Greco aroused on the Catalan art scene at the turn of the last century, CPFQHJKUKPƂWGPEGQPVJG young Picasso. MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO SENZA TITOLO 92, 1976. MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO SENZA TITOLO 92,

16 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com WE TALK TO... 04 NIMFA BISBE

* Director of the contemporary art collection of the Fundació Bancària (Bank Foundation) “la Caixa”

Bisbe has been responsible for acquisitions since 2002. She ANXES DE LINÒLEUM, ESTAMPAT ESTAMPAT ANXES DE LINÒLEUM, takes us on a tour of the innards of SSO, VEGAP, MADRID 2015 VEGAP, SSO, CaixaForum, the storage facilities, refrigeration rooms and restoration studios – the beating heart of operations.

How do you buy a work of art? I work with a committee of experts, who meet a couple of times a year in Barcelona. We talk a lot during these gatherings. I put forward a list of artworks, between 10 and 15 pieces, and between us all we draw up a list of priorities.

Who is on this committee? Directors of contemporary museums from around the world. At the last session there was one person from Brazil, one from the UK, one from Spain, one from Poland and another from the US. We’ve also had art critics, and even some artists, but that’s more complicated, because we need people who are impartial, which means that this isn’t an opportunity for artists to sell us their work. SOBRE PAPER VITEL·LA ARCHES (IV ESTAT I DEFINITIU) MUSEU PICASSO, BARCELONA ADQUISICIÓ, 2007 MPB 113.128 © SUCCESSIÓ PABLO PICA 2007 MPB 113.128 © SUCCESSIÓ PABLO BARCELONA ADQUISICIÓ, I DEFINITIU) MUSEU PICASSO, VITEL·LA ARCHES (IV ESTAT SOBRE PAPER RETRAT D’HOME AMB GORGERA. VARIACIÓ INSPIRADA EN EL GRECO MOUGINS, ABRIL DEL 1962 GRAVAT AMB GÚBIA EN CINC COLORS SOBRE DUES PL ABRIL DEL 1962 GRAVAT EN EL GRECO MOUGINS, INSPIRADA D’HOME AMB GORGERA. VARIACIÓ RETRAT How many works did you buy during the last session? I suggested 12 – four were bought.

05 And what happens to the pieces then? They’re brought to the repository. The registry does an inventory that includes all the work’s characteristics, future needs, conservation requirements. To get an idea of what’s involved, in the repository we have an installation made up of dehydrated citrus fruit, and another one of skateboards made of pork. They both have to be kept at less than 15º C.

Is all this stipulated in the contract? Yes, always. The artist has to provide a document with all the instructions, attached to the authenticity certiƁcate. And we’re obliged to respect them all. –Josep Lambies JUAN VAN DER HAMEN, PLAT DE MAGRANES, CAP A 1629-1631. DE MAGRANES, PLAT DER HAMEN, JUAN VAN D’ART DE CATALUNYA MUSEU NACIONAL

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 17 06 EUGENI FORCANO. LA MIRADA INSONDABLE, 1963 © EUGENI FORCANO INSONDABLE, LA MIRADA EUGENI FORCANO.

06. LA MIRADA INSONDABLE (1963) 07. CONCETTO SPAZIALE, ATTESE (1965) EUGENI FORCANO LUCIO FONTANA Catalan writer Josep Pla said that Eugeni Forcano was The work in bronze and brass created by the Argentinian different, unpredictable, unique. Self-taught, and a regular in artist three years before his death is almost an icon of the pages of ‘Destino’ and ‘Don’, Forcano focused on portraits At the Galeria Carles Taché 20th-century contemporary art. From 1949, when he was and advertising and fashion photography. In 2012 he was (Méxic, 19) you can see living in Italy, Fontana focused all his efforts on spatial awarded Spain’s National Photography Prize. He saw the most works by Cornelia Parker and concepts – piercing, scratching, crumpling cloth and all human and social side of the country in the ’60s, and this manner of other materials. This piece sums up the major ‘fathomless look’ was captured in Montjuïc. Until Feb 13. Sean Scully, in the Exposició exhibition, Species of Spaces. Until Jan 31. Fundació Foto Colectania (Julián Romea, 6) Inaugural show (until Jan 16). MACBA (Plaça dels Àngels, 1)

18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 07 LUCIO FONTANA CONCETTO SPAZIALE, ATTESE, C. 1965 4 X 250 X 120 CM BRONZE I LLAUTÓ FUNDACIÓ FRANCISCO GODIA, BARCELONA FRANCISCO GODIA, I LLAUTÓ FUNDACIÓ C. 1965 4 X 250 120 CM BRONZE ATTESE, CONCETTO SPAZIALE, LUCIO FONTANA

In the ceiling of CaixaForum’s foyer is ‘Concetto spaziale [Spacial created in 1951. It measures 230 centimetres in height, 827 MORE WORKS... Concept] num. 51-A1’ by Lucio Fontana, a neon light installation centimetres in width and 670 centimetres in length.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 19 08. ECHO IX (2007) LOUISE BOURGEOIS ‘Clothes are an exercise in memory. They let me explore the past, how I felt when I wore them.’ This is how Bourgeois expressed herself, this sculptor who worked on shapes, ladders and materials, moving between figurative and abstract art to represent pain and loneliness. This piece with a ghostly aura is one of the last created by the prolific artist. Until Mar 28. Fundació Gaspar d’Art Contemporani (Montcada, 25) ECHO IX, 2007 BRONZE PINTAT DE BLANC I ACER 109,2 X 67,3 60,9 CM / 43 26 1/2 24 IN DE BLANC I ACER PINTAT 2007 BRONZE ECHO IX,

20 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Finding a tresure is the art to look where no one sees get ready for the saving season! Barcelona Shopping Line Century-old shops Exclusive luxury shopping Independent designers Gourmet

Barcelonashoppingline.com visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 21 PureG

Palau Güell

22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Palau Güell

Genius

It’s been 90 years since the death of Antoni Gaudí. We explore his timeless Barcelona creations. By Abby Narishkin

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 23 CASA VICENS Casa Batlló Antoni Gaudí’s Ɓrst great house holds a special place among the architect’s earlier works. Designed with his signature eye for colours and motifs, Casa Vicens marks a distinct period of Moorish inƂuence for the Catalan architect. Although it’s not open to the public, this green- and-white tiled masterpiece is well worth stopping by to see from the outside.| Carolinas, 24 (Gràcia). M: Fontana (L3) LA PEDRERA It’s been variously described as looking like rising dough, molten lava and a stone lung. Casa Milà (popularly known as La Pedrera, ‘the stone quarry’) is a daring example of Gaudí’s use of stone to create natural features. When La Pedrera, his Ɓnal civil project, started to be built in 1906, it became a laughing stock for its undulating façade, wrought-iron balconies and vast windows. But Gaudí’s innovative, self- supporting stone exterior has marked the house among today’s most stupendous architectural feats, and won it a spot on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site list.| Provença, 261-265 (Eixample Dret). M: Diagonal (L3, L5); FGC: Provença. Jan 1-3: 9am-8.30pm; from Jan 4: Daily 9am-6.30pm (last entry 30 minutes before closing). Closed Jan 11-17. €20.50; €16.50 reductions; €10.25 ages 7 to 12; free under-7s. www.lapedrera.com PARK GÜELL Up in the neighbourhood of Horta-Guinardó, Park Güell boasts breathtaking hillside views of the whole city. You can enter the park for free, but if you want to get into the ‘Monumental zone’, you’ll pay around a8 to see the iconic mosaic bench and dragon, plus more gems. (Visit their website to book in advance online Sagrada Família and you’ll save yourself a euro.) Chock-full of symbolism and nature motifs, this park, belonging to Gaudí’s naturalist phase, will spark anyone’s imaginative side. Once you’ve taken in the Monumental zone’s attractions, make sure to save some time to walk up and explore the surrounding park, which is a must- see in its own right.| C/ d’Olot, 5 (Horta-Guinardó). M: Lesseps, Vallcarca (L3). Monumental zone: Jan 1 – Mar 28: 8.30am-6.15pm (last entry 30-45 minutes before closing). Park outside Monumental zone: 5am-midnight. Monumental zone: €8 (€7 advance via Park Güell website); €5.60 reductions (€4.90 via website); free under-7s. Free entry to the park outside Monumental zone. www.parkguell.es PALAU GÜELL A perfect combination of old-fashioned opulence and stylised modernism, Palau Güell will have you picturing yourself rolling up to the door in a horse-drawn carriage. Tucked into a skinny street in the Raval, Palau Güell, designed

24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com by Gaudí for his patron, Count Güell, stands today as a symbol for Catalan nationalism. As La Pedrera you explore the house, take note of how the rising levels (from the modest basement to the ostentatiously colourful roof with 20 mosaic chimneys) reƂect the motif of wealth. Nou de la Rambla, 3-5 (Raval). M: Drassanes, Liceu (L3). Nov-Mar: Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm (last entry at 4.30pm). €12 general; €8 reduced; €5 ages 10-17. www.palauguell.cat COLÒNIA GÜELL In contrast to most owners of industrial colonies from the late 1800s, Colònia Güell’s patron, Eusebi Güell, wanted good living conditions for his workers. Güell’s ideas included religious and cultural buildings, all constructed in Gaudí’s modernista style. This colony in Santa Coloma de Cervello is an impressive place to study early architectural inspirations for projects like the Sagrada Família.| Claudi Güell, 6, Santa Coloma de Cervelló. M: Espanya (L1, L3); FGC: Colònia Güell (S4, S8, S33). Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. www.gaudicoloniaguell.org FINCA GÜELL Between 1884 and 1887, Eusebi Güell hired Antoni Gaudí yet again for the construction and renovation of the grounds of his estate. The architect was to landscape the gardens and construct gatehouses for the estate. Styled with Asian designs and Mudejar inƂuences, Finca Güell is striking because of its colourful tiles and innovative ironwork. But most notable is the mythical dragon protecting its gate.| Av. Pedralbes, 7 (Les Corts). M: Palau Reial (L3). Daily 10am-4pm (public holidays included). Closed Jan 1 & 6. €6. CASA BATLLÓ When you Ɓrst step up to Casa Batlló, it’s the immaculate mosaic work and dragon-like tiles of Gaudí’s greatest construction facelift that will bewitch you. The whimsical air of the ‘house of bones’ continues once inside with the Ƃowing stonework, ovular windows and nature wrought-iron balconies and curved façade, nature, light and religion together into one motifs. Most striking is the atrium in the centre hints at the architect’s more opulent stunning ensemble piece. The interior is like a of the house, designed with ombré blue tiles to modernista works to follow. Built out of stone giant jigsaw puzzle with each new architect’s allow for a constant stream of light and air. This quarried from Montjuïc, Casa Calvet now style blending into the rest of Gaudí’s vision. fanciful residence-turned-museum boasts such houses a restaurant in its lowest level. While Pay attention to how the light dances through attention to detail that even the furniture Ƃows sipping your wine, see if you can spot the the space, while the bright colours emote a with the house. Be sure to leave time for the nods to Pere Màrtir Calvet’s work in the sense of peaceful celebration. Sadly, it’s that short Ɓlm of the house’s folklore story, which textile industry. innovative vision and design that has regularly explains how the heroic prince saves his Casp, 48 (Eixample Dret). M: Urquinaona (L4). delayed the predicted completion date. But the princess! Sagrada Família, with its modernista style and Passeig de Gràcia, 43 (Eixample Dret). conventional Gothic themes, is a masterpiece M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). SAGRADA FAMÍLIA because of its impossibilities. Even Gaudí knew Daily 9am-9pm. €21.50; €18.50 ages 7-18, Soaring above Barcelona’s cityscape, the how ambitious his Ɓnal magnum opus would seniors and students; free under-7s. Sagrada Família will be the world’s tallest be, when he said, ‘My client is in no hurry.’ www.casabatllo.cat church upon completion. This 130-year labour Mallorca, 401 (Eixample Dret). M: Sagrada of love, dreamt up by Antoni Gaudí, is one of the Família (L2, L5). Nov-Feb: Daily 9am-6pm. world’s most controversial basilicas, but it’s Jan 1 & 6: 9am-2pm. General admission €15. CASA CALVET also one of the most visited. Three million Tour with guide €19.50. Self-guided audio tour Although considered to be one of Gaudí’s most tourists descend upon it each year to gawk at €19.50. Lift to spires €4.50. conservative early works, Casa Calvet, with its the architectural achievement that has brought www.sagradafamilia.cat

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 25 By Ricard Martín Feel the IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

order the spicy broth – served so and you can specify the level of Dragon’s breath hot it cooks the ingredients you The chilli trolley spiciness as they grind six dry ’Huoguo’, the Chinese fondue dip into it in seconds – and Tacos with ‘molcajete’ sauce chillies, imported from Mexico, When you get that slow-building combine it with duck, chicken, Spicy food might appear to be a in a Mayan mortar. Each one advance warning of the spiciness beef, lamb or Ɓsh. Dunk sliced gastronomic faux pas, but if you’re contributes a subtly different to come, you know things are vegetables, prawns, lobster eating quality chillies and not Ƃavour, whether smoky, sweet or about to get seriously hot. The claws, baby octopuses – you’ll feel mass-produced sauces designed extra hot. The perfect match for Chinese hot pot, or huoguo, a dish like a miniature demon in charge to burn off the roof of your mouth, this salsa are their carnitas that should be enjoyed with of your own private inferno. that spiciness can help digest michoacanas, tacos Ɓlled with absolute calm, is the ideal way to P: €19.50 your meal. A case in point is the pork slow-cooked in its own embark on the Ɓery roller-coaster L’OLLA DE SI CHUAN spectacular molcajete salsa juices. P: €14 ride you sense on the horizon. You Pl. del Doctor Letamendi, 11 trolley at Oaxaca, a temple of OAXACA can choose your heat level, but (Eixample Esquerre) traditional Mexican cuisine. They Pla del Palau, 19 (Born) you’re not here to waste time: ⓣ 93 503 18 88 prepare the sauce at the table, ⓣ 93 319 00 64 SCOVILLE SCALE

Mild Spicy 100-5,000 5,000-25,000 50,000-100,000 100,000-250,000

The spiciness scales begins with Spicy, but bearable – think the Thai peppers are no joking matter Tabasco! The tiny pepper used the common red pimiento or the jalapeño, and Padrón peppers – the best antidote is to drink to make the famous sauce. guajillo – mild stuff. from Galicia. something sweet or milky. Warning: small but deadly.

26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com SPICY FOOD CAN HELP YOU LIVE LONGER. CAPSAICIN, THE SUBSTANCE THAT GIVES CHILLIES AND PEPPERS THEIR HEAT, HAS ANTIOXIDANT AND burn!! ANALGESIC PROPERTIES. IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

Habaneros, Thai chillies and scalded in broth for a minute, then The devil’s Spanish pimientos. As red as a Ɓre Soothing stir-fried with a sauce of dry engine, it doesn’t attack without chillies, garlic, sunƂower oil and condiment warning – one look at it and you contrast oyster sauce. I order it extra spicy Sambal know it’s going to coat your tongue Kaproaw mu – pet pet in Thai – and it’s Hera, the owner of Betawi – like molten lava. But spread If Thai cuisine is one of the devastating, but when cooked Barcelona’s only Indonesian sparingly on delicate rolls stuffed spiciest in the world, you’ll agree properly the chillies burn without restaurant – points out that with chicken, bean sprouts, prawns that its hottest dish must be overwhelming. The contrast sambal is a condiment and not a and transparent rice noodles, that pretty darn hot. At Thai Barcelona between the spiciness and the recipe: ‘Each diner can add it to hint of heat is exactly what the they make a mean kaproaw mu, a fresh green pepper and Thai basil their own taste.’ Whatever your doctor ordered. P: €5.10 pork and chilli pepper stir-fry is addictively soothing. P: €12.45 taste may be, if you order sambal BETAWI that’s a popular classic. I watch in THAI BARCELONA they’ll bring you a small dish of Montsió, 6 (Gòtic) awe as it’s prepared in the Diputació, 273 (Eixample Dret) thick paste, which is made from ⓣ 93 412 63 64 kitchen: meat and vegetables ⓣ 93 487 98 98

Pharmacist Wilbur Scoville invented this scale in 1912. The units represent the mililitres of water needed to dilute one mililitre of pepper extract.

Extreme 250,000-500,000500,000-1 MILLION 2 MILLION 2 MILL-5 MILL

Exercise caution with cayenne Welcome to hell. The Indian ‘bhut The Trinidad moruga scorpion chilli The spiciest thing on Earth isn’t peppers, as anyone who’s jolokia’ pepper is so hot it can only – as you eat it, it causes blisters in edible – we’re talking pepper accidentally overdosed can testify. be handled with gloves. the mouth and throat. sprays, as used in self-defence.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 27 WOW!

THE HUMAN POLLIINATION PROJECT

The CCCB exhibition + Humans looks at what the future may hold for humanity. By Maria Junyent

OPTIMISED BIRTH. PART TWO

28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 01. DECELERATOR HELMET For an ever-accelerating society like our own, Lorenz Potthast has imagined the ability to personalise our perception of time. The tool he’s designed to do this is a spherical helmet that allows the wearer to experience the world in slow motion, deepening their awareness of their relationship with time. A small computer processes sounds and images from the outside world, and the user can slow them down them with a handheld remote. What can we learn from it? Could this improve our lives? If we uses lenses to see the world more clearly, Slow down the rapid pace why shouldn’t we put on a helmet to experience of life with the a slowed-down version of our lives? o be a human in 2016 is radically different decelerator from being one in 1914, 1800 or the 15th helmet century. What does it mean to be human today? What are the limits of progress? 02. What is the future of our species? These are just a few of the questions the Science OPTIMISED BIRTH. PART TWO Gallery at Trinity College Dublin, an A motorised arm rocks a cradle every time the institution on the frontier between art and baby cries or wakes up. Addie Wagenknecht, science, asked 50 artists and artist and mother, came up with the idea for researchers. To impose some kind of this piece when she was pregnant, looking for order on such a wide-ranging exploration, ways to combine her creative career with the questions are organised under Ɓ ve motherhood. Many technological devices have headings: Augmented abilities, Non- been designed to make domestic tasks easier, human encounters, Extended ecologies, but child-rearing (another domestic task) is Authoring evolution, and Life at the edges. considered sacred. The author provocatively I’m not spoiling anything by revealing that raises the issue so many modern parents face the + Humans exhibition doesn’t provide – how to strike a balance between the demands answers, only more questions – and of family life and work. thorny ones at that. ‘That’s exactly what we intended,’ says researcher Ricard Solé, a consultant on the + Humans project and a member of ICREA (the 03. Catalan Institute for Research and Advanced Studies). EUTHANASIA COASTER The exhibition includes real-world Yet more provocation. Julilonas Urbonas’s projects and speculative pieces. In the imaginary device is designed to bring life to a words of Science Gallery director Michael humane, elegant and euphoric end. Drawing on John Gorman, it’s ‘a combination of a research in aerospace medicine, mechanical sweet shop and a chemists, a wonderland engineering, materials technology and gravity, of pills, promises and prosthetics’. Read he proposes a roller coaster designed to kill all on to discover four of the most its passengers with a devastating adrenaline representative pieces. rush – totally painlessly. Is it such a crazy idea? 04. THE HUMAN POLLINATION PROJECT Bees pollinate a third of our food crops, but it’s an undeniable fact that they’re now on the brink of extinction. To draw attention to our dependence on bees, and also the way their populations are declining, Laura Allcorn has created tools that can be worn as jewellery, but which are designed to carry out the painstaking pollination work that bees currently do.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 29 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] Shopping & Style @eugeniasendra The art of dressing well Triple whammy in the Eixample – Wer-Haus is a photo gallery, a bar and a shop stocking prestigious international labels. By Eugènia Sendra

Wer-Haus is a new temple From the logo – symmetric and dedicated to fashion, photography Bauhausian – to the distribution of and gastronomy. How can a former the spaces, everything has been car park and anodyne furniture carefully considered. Visitors shop be converted into a space enter and leave through the photo like that? It takes a clear concept, gallery – the idea is for it to draw as well as reƁned taste and them in for a browse through the investment, which in this case selection of specialised books come from a trio of sources. and magazines. This section is Frenchmen Nicolas Rossi and the responsibility of photographer Jean-Antoine Palagos met in an IT Dani Pujalte – he chooses difficult- company. When they got to know to-find titles, photo books featured Barcelona cinema director Marc at the Rencontres d’Arles summer Miró, it triggered the start of this festival, and publications from hybrid project, with its three small international houses such separate parts and a name that as Dienacht, Skinnerbox and Riot has German overtones. Miró Books, which last year was among wrote the business plan that they the prizewinners at the Aperture used to court luxury fashion GRAPHIC LOVE Paris Photo awards. brands, while the architects (and The most photogenic T-shirt from As well as discovering new friends) of LaBoqueria studio drew Études Studio (€72). favourites such as Leon Reindl, up plans for the space. The design is minimalist, ideal for the impressive, avant-garde content. The French partners say We like labels that they’ve always liked a certain type of fashion, labels that focus that focus on on design and have a very strong design and have visual graphic identity. Wer-Haus has launched with various men’s a strong graphic lines (they plan at some point to identity have women’s ranges as well), Lemaire – simple, never over the Pujalte also selects local top – and Raf Simons. Both are ‘A SMALL UNIVERSE’ releases – books from Terranova, high-fashion brands with which the Dani Pujalte says it’s one of the best Paralaxe Editions and Ca l’Isidret, three men are hoping to establish recently published photo books (€48). which, among others, has themselves in the city, as well as published the work of Galician to educate shoppers about ‘the art Antonio M. Xoubanova. Using a of dressing’. metaphotographic language, Un As well as these more exclusive universo pequeño (A Small ranges, they also have pieces from Universe) contains images taken Études Studio, which is great for by Xoubanova in 2.5 seconds on graphics; the urban designs of 10 metres of street. Large-scale Gosha Rubchinskiy; Polish brand versions of his shots can be seen misbhv; contemporary menswear in the first Wer-Haus exhibition, from CMMN SWDN; and the lineal running until January 15.Following designs of MariusPetrus and it will by photos from the Tokyo British label Sunspel. When it concept store Ima Concept. comes to accessories you’ll find PB 0110’s deliciously spare WER-HAUS leather bags, and limited series Aragó, 287 (Eixample Dret).

from Asics and Nike. MARIA DIAS PHOTOS: wer-haus.com

30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com

You inspire us A complete The emotional landscapes of Vanessa Linares are all about concept people like us. By Laia Beltran SHOP OF THE MONTH

Vanessa Linares keenly recalls the summer she spent in Mallorca with some friends from the Fine Arts faculty – she spent the whole time drawing in a Zap Book. On her return to Barcelona, Linares tore out the book’s pages to make a large collage. And so her Ɓ rst picture was created, a hypnotic world of liquid watercolours populated by guspirus, incredible FAN OF HENNINGSEN anthropomorphic beings She’s obsessed by the lights of Dane that seem like fantastic Poul Henningsen. That’s why whenever Ktu is the pet project of the animals but actually she heads to the Raval, she’s drawn Vásquez sisters, two represent the human to the windows of Vintage Room (Peu entrepreneurs who, after working condition. Linares always de la Creu, 16) to see them lit up. for big names in the fashion exploits colour and never sector, decided to launch their own hides uncomfortable concept store where local brands emotions. Sadness, are the stars of the show. However, loneliness, heartbreak – as the women themselves say, it’s whatever happens to her difficult to compete with leaders in (what happens to all of us the field such as Urban Outfitters regardless of Mr. Wonderful) and Be, and do something is found in the details of her different from the concepts of magniƁ cent pieces. Some minimalism and Nordic ambience time ago, she began working on that most of these spaces display dark, mysterious forests, painted (indeed, the two-floor premises of with watered-down acrylics, and Ktu adheres closely to this through which guspirus pass, UNIQUE PIECES aesthetic). creating emotional landscapes Linares commissions plates of various So how to distinguish that invite you to enter the sizes from Italian ceramicist Rita Lugli, themselves from neighbouring canvas to (re)Ɓ nd yourself. Pure who has a workshop in the Born. She shops? With a selection that magic realism. then paints them with her guspirus, mixes national and international giving them life and colour. labels. As well as the latest www.vanessalinares.com products from Swedish brand Dr. Denim, they also have Rita Row, from the Catalan city of Girona, the organic clothes of n.u.s.k., the GET THE LOOK! always flattering pieces from Maal, and the basics of Batallata (all three are Barcelona labels). The PERSONAL STYLE leather bags designed by the Linares combines Hagamús bags Vásquez sisters – which include with vintage clothes from Dalton’s unisex options – head up a Second Hand shop in Mataró, a collection of accessories that also town just up the coast (Xammar, 3). features Ivyl shoes, and W·A·U’s ON SHOW AND ON SALE urban creations. For unusual gifts, WAVY HAIR Linares’s work can be seen in check out the Doiy gadgets. –E.S. She likes how they style her locks at various galleries around the city, and La Pelu (Templers, 6). paintings in different sizes are on sale KTU

MARIA DIAS in design store Ici et Là (Passatge Astúries, 2 (Gràcia). Sert, 5, www.icietla.com). www.ktubarcelona.com

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 31 Shopping & Style A question of faith When Olga Dubovik loves a photographer’s work, she gives them free rein to capture her Lubochka bags. Korean Ina Jang has shot the new collection. By Laia Beltran

delicately sophisticated style, and got in touch with her via Instagram. The young Korean photographer accepted the challenge. Last summer Dubovik sent a dozen bags from her latest collection to Shanghai, then didn’t give the matter another thought. A month or so ago, she received an email with the words, ‘They’re done. Let’s see if you like them.’ Attached were photos of her bags taken by Jang. ‘They were a big surprise. I loved them,’ says Dubovik, who felt a mixture of happiness and anxiety. But a lot of faith as well. Jang’s objective was to capture the sweeter side of Lubochka, with

She sees fashion as a way of life, not just a way to ƁNNVJGOCTMGV with products unexpected framing, pastel tones and a poetic surrealism. Perhaps it’s because the new bags – Dubovik reinterprets classic models from the line, producing them in various colours – don’t have any studs or metallic chains. What they all still do have, including the small Àgata coin purses that can be hung from the wrist (bottom left), is the characteristic tassel Design two collections a year, then own point of view.’ She allows dazzling colours. During a trip to made with colourful leather strips. start all over again. Olga Dubovik others to freely express Japan, Dubovik saw some photos (who is originally from Siberia) themselves through her Lubochka in a magazine credited to Ina LUBOCHKA wasn’t in the least bit interested bags, which are produced in a Jang. The designer fell Find the bags in La in joining this tyrannical cycle. small workshop in Igualada, a in love with Tercera, Brosolí, 4 Indeed, the thought bored her to town in central Catalonia where Jang’s (Born). tears. She understands fashion Dubovik went to live as a teenager. www.lubochka.com as a way of life, not as a way just Social media are Dubovik’s main to Ɓ ll the market with products. allies. Through them she She likes connecting her work discovered the work of Aiala designing leather bags with the Hernando and Monling Lee, the The Mashka vision of other artists, speciƁ cally Ɓ rst two photographers to whom is a classic that’s photographers. ‘I don’t want to she gave free rein. The results been renovated commission them to do an were spectacular. The Ɓ rst (€165). advertising campaign. Quite the included Lubochka bags in opposite. I give them carte disturbing still lifes. The blanche and let them bring their second, in a universe full of

32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Shopping & Style The winter sales start here on Thursday 7. So you may get Layer up NWEM[CPFƁPFUQOG of our shopping This month is when the cold weather in Barcelona really starts to take selections reduced hold. Beat the chill with multiple layers. By Eugènia Sendra

SECOND SKIN UNDER SHIRT TOP LEVEL

SIMPLE BEGINNINGS GO GREEN JACQUARD FANTASY American Vintage have the perfect basics for men. Japanese label Muji make their feminine flannel shirt A striking palette and soft touch make this Yerse sweater €35. Rambla de Catalunya, 113 in organic cotton. €44.95. Rambla de Catalunya, 81 a winner. €99. L’illa Shopping Centre, Diagonal, 557

ESSENTIALLY MINIMALIST FEMALE STYLE LOCAL TOUCH The Nude Label makes cotton underwear in nearby This fitted blouse is by Med Winds, a label inspired All of Name’s woollen jumpers are designed and made Mataró. €55. Buy at Colmado Shop, Brosolí, 5 by the local sea. €130. Rambla de Catalunya, 100 in Barcelona. €132. La Tercera, Brosolí, 4

SHORT CUT MADE IN PORTUGAL NORDIC WARMTH If you like a crop style, new local label Pinya is ideal The cold has no chance against this flannel Men who want warm colours and materials for you. €29. Baixada de Viladecols, 2 shirt. €100. Boo, Bonavista, 2 should head to Cos. €59. Pg. de Gràcia, 27

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 33 Things to Do Mapping the Raval’s treasures Raval Cultural is a project that aims to let the cultural wealth of the old-city neighbourhood shine. Maria Junyent investigates

A little over a year ago, local Teatre Romea. But Raval illustrator ‘Lluïsot’ published a Cultural also lists libraries, fantastic book entitled El Raval – a organisations and societies, world of culture in which he maps live music venues and the area, its past and future, its bookshops – some have over secrets and, most important of all, 100 years of history and others the people who live there, with have only just become part of drawings that capture every detail the neighbourhood’s social of the district’s busy streets. In fabric. There are essential local the introduction, the author bars such as La Confitería, a describes the Raval in the same magnificent watering hole (Sant terms that Argentinian writer Jorge Pau, 128) that preserves the Luis Borges used to describe his Modernista decor of its former imaginary object, the Aleph: a incarnation as a cake shop, and point in space that contains all institutions like the Fundació other points. Mercè Rodoreda (Carme, 47), part of the Institut d’Estudis Catalans and dedicated to the Catalan author, with a library of One tour of the her complete works, including translations into other Raval offers a languages, visual materials, two-hour trip video and film. Shops include A la Premsa d’Aquell Dia (Joaquín through 2,000 Costa, 44), founded in 1944, years of history where you can buy original old newspapers from different The fact that the Raval is historical periods, and there’s an area packed with both the Fundació Tot Raval treasures in plain sight and (Caramelles, 8), a citizens’ diamonds in the rough is no platform that’s been working to secret, but it’s handy to have a improve the neighbourhood map that identifies them all. since 2002. For those who want Ciutat Vella district council has regular info on the area, a created Raval Cultural, a project weekly newsletter is produced intended to highlight the every Wednesday with selected neighbourhood’s cultural highlights. begins with farms, Ɓelds and upcoming tours on the Raval heritage, on a website detailing market gardens, and continues Cultural website – and sign up the activities of more than 200 HISTORY ON FOOT through convents and early, as they Ɓll up fast. venues, and offering a range of The other side of Raval Cultural is monasteries to the colourful Another guided tour, ‘El Raval guided tours open to all. a series of free guided tours. The history of the Barri Xino – a BSO’, delves into the musical Ɓrst, ‘Sketches of the history of nickname earned not from any history of the district and visits AN AMBITIOUS DIRECTORY the Raval’, offers a two-hour trip Chinese connection, but because some of the most emblematic Few will be surprised by the through 2,000 years of history, of its densely populated streets locations in an area with a inclusion of the Raval’s big from the area’s origins as the that offered entertainment of strong musical identity – from cultural flagships, such as the gateway to the city up to the every kind, innocent or not. Look the site of Cal Manquet, the MACBA, the Filmoteca and the present day. It’s a history that out for the dates and times of one-time brothel and café

34 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Maria Junyent [email protected] @junyjuliol

EATING IN THE RAVAL

DOS PALILLOS Michelin-starred restaurant where Asian and Spanish tapas combine to create gastro glory. It perfectly fuses a blue-collar bar (there are no tables) with haute cuisine. Elisabets, 9.

LO DE FLOR A gorgeous white interior decor, with wood and metal creating rustic, cosy minimalism, is matched by dishes that create a culinary tour of the Mediterranean. Carretes, 18. MARIA DIAS where the great flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya made her debut, to the music of the district’s churches and its record shops. A third explores FONDA ESPANYA the area’s social, voluntary and A spectacular modernista co-operative economy, focusing restaurant that’s home to a on shops, restaurants and traditional style of cooking adapted collective production. by the creative genius of Basque chef Martín Berasategui. www.ravalcultural.bcn.cat Sant Pau, 9-11.

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(Pl. Catalunya). M: Catalunya obrasocial.lacaixa.es Until Jan 4. 6pm-9pm. (L1,L3;FGC). 10am-9pm. Until Jan Day by day 4. barcelona.cat/nadal. FREE Fira de Reis de la Gran Via Tours See Fri 1. (Gran Via Corts Information and sales: FREE Nadal: activitats per a Catalanes, 580, between C/ Tourist Information Points and tots Torre Bellesguard | Rocafort and C/Muntaner). tickets.visitbarcelona.com Festive activities from dance, Tours of Gaudí’s modernista sports and hop-hop to music. castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. FREE Fira de Consum FREE This activity is free (Pl. Catalunya). M: Catalunya (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Responsable (L1,L3;FGC). Until Jan 4. More (FGC). Visit with audio guide: Tue- See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: * The dates of league matches info: www.barcelona.cat/nadal. Sun 10am-3pm. €9. Reduced Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). may be moved forward or back €7.20. Guided tour: Sat noon one day, depending on TV FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de (Spanish); Sat, Sun 11am (English). FREE Nadal: activitats per a broadcast schedules Sant Jaume €16. €12.80 (reduced). tots This year the traditional See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: Pessebre – Nativity Scene – is Santa Maria del Mar Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Friday 1 inspired by pop-up books. rooftop (Plaça de Sant Jaume). M: Book your Guided tours to the top FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de Kids Jaume I (L4). 10am- favourite of this historic church Sant Jaume 10pm. Until Jan 6. restaurants at for great city views. See Fri 1. (Plaça de Sant Jaume). Festival de la Infancia| timeout.com/ (Plaça de Santa Maria, M: Jaume I (L4). Sports, educational activities, barcelona 1). M: Jaume I (L4). games and more for a fun day out Tours Mon-Fri 12pm to with all the family. 5.15pm (various times and Sunday 3 Fira de Barcelona (Av. de la Reina La Pedrera by day languages). Sat, Sun, public Maria Cristina, s/n.). M: Espanya Enjoy one of the most holidays 11am to 7pm (various Sports (L1,L3;FGC). 10am-8pm. Until Jan spectacular buildings in times and languages).€10 4. €12. Reduced: € 7. www. Barcelona. (general). €8 (reduced). Booking: 68 Torneig Internacional festivalinfancia.com (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal www.riostabarcelona.com. d’Hoquei de Reis (L3, L5) and FGC: Provença. Jan 1 The traditional Kings’ Day 11am-8.30pm. Jan 2-3 Sortim a navegar amb el international hockey tournament Festival 9am-8.30pm. Jan 4-10, 18-31 pailebot Santa Eulàlia at BCN’s Royal Polo club. 9am-6.30pm. Closed Jan 11-17. Take a trip on a beautifully Reial Club de Polo de Barcelona (Av. Drap’Art: Festival Internacional From €20.50. restored three-masted schooner. Doctor Marañón, 19-31). M: Zona de Reciclatge Artístic de Maritime Museum (Av. de les Universitaria (L3). Jan 3-6. Catalunya Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes Info: www.hockeyreyes.com. Features the ‘Colectiva Drap Art Saturday 2 (L3). Every Sat. Meet 9.30am; boat ’15’ expo, as well as street art trip 10am-1pm. €12 adults. €6 installations, events, workshops Festival kids. Reservation necessary: Traditions and cinema. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). [email protected]. M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Until Drap’Art: Festival FREE La Fàbrica dels Reis Jan 3. Exhibition 11am-8pm. Internacional de Reciclatge El Born Centre Cultural d’Orient Seasonal market 11am-10pm. Artístic de Catalunya Guided tours of site with 18th- See Sat 2. Fàbrica de Fabra i www.cccb.org See Fri 1. century remains discovered below Coats (Sant Adrià, 18-24). M: Sant CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: a former market. (Pl. Comercial, Andreu (L1). Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 12). M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). Traditions T. 93 256 68 51. Sat, Sun FREE Fira de Consum 12.30pm, Wed, Sun 5.30pm in Responsable FREE Fira de Reis de la Kids Spanish; Sat, Sun 4.30pm in See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: Gran Via English; Sat, Sun noon in French. Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Market stalls supply all you need Festival de la Infancia| Spanish: €8.80; English and for a present-giving frenzy on See Fri 1. French: €10.56. FREE Nadal: activitats per a Kings’ Day. (Gran Via Corts Fira de Barcelona (Av. de la Reina tots Catalanes, 580, between C/ Maria Cristina, s/n.). M: Espanya See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: Rocafort and C/Muntaner). Until (L1,L3;FGC). Traditions Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). Jan 6 .10am-10pm (Jan 5, 10am-3pm). El somni de volar FREE La Fàbrica dels Reis FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de ‘The dream of Ƃight’ at the 3D d’Orient Sant Jaume FREE Fira de Consum planetarium. Visit the Three Kings’ See Fri 1. (Plaça de Sant Jaume). Responsable CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). spectacularly illuminated “toy M: Jaume I (L4). Promoting responsible FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Until Jan 10. factory,” with workers busy making consumerism with an emphasis Noon-6pm (starts every two Kings’ Day gifts until 5 Jan. FREE Fira de Reis de la Gran Via on sustainable local goods and hours, except Jan 8 1pm, 6pm). Fàbrica de Fabra i Coats (Sant See Fri 1. services. For kids 8 and above. €4. agenda. Adrià, 18-24). M: Sant Andreu (L1). (Gran Via Corts Catalanes, 580,

36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Things to Do between C/Rocafort and C/ FREE Fira de Consum Muntaner). Responsable See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: Festival Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). FREE Nadal: activitats per a Drap’Art: Festival Internacional tots de Reciclatge Artístic de See Fri 1. (Pl. Catalunya). M: Catalunya Catalunya (L1,L3;FGC). See Fri 1. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de Sant Jaume See Fri 1. (Plaça de Sant Jaume). Kids M: Jaume I (L4).

Festival de la Infancia| FREE Fira de Reis de la Gran Via See Fri 1. Fira de Barcelona (Av. de See Fri 1. (Gran Via Corts la Reina Maria Cristina, s/n.). M: Catalanes, 580, between C/ Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). Rocafort and C/Muntaner).

El somni de volar See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Kids Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Festival de la Infancia| See Fri 1. Fira de Barcelona (Av. de Football la Reina Maria Cristina, s/n.). M: Espanya (L1,L3;FGC). * League fixture. RCD Espanyol – FC Barcelona Local derby sees Barça travel to Sports the Espanyol stadium in the neighbouring town of Cornellà. 68 Torneig Internacional Date and time TBC. www. d’Hoquei de Reis rcdespanyol.com. Estadi Cornellà - See Sun 3. Reial Club de Polo de El Prat (Av. del Baix Llobregat, 100. Barcelona (Av. Doctor Marañón, Cornellà de Llobregat). FGC: 19-31). M: Zona Universitaria (L3). Cornellà.

Tuesday 5 Tours Traditions Santa Maria del Mar rooftop FREE Gran Cavalcada de Reis See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, In Catalonia and the rest of Spain, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). it’s the Three Kings who bring children their presents – and in FREE Guided tour of Poblenou BCN they do so in majestic style, Cemetery arriving by boat in the port and Explore one of Barcelona’s setting out on a spectacular historical cemeteries. procession through the city, (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). accompanied by their colourful 1st and 3rd Sun 10.30am retinue of pages, dancers and toy (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish). makers, and followed by lorryloads of sweets thrown to the crowd. (Moll de Fusta). M: Drassanes (L3). Monday 4 From 4.30pm.

Traditions FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de Sant Jaume FREE La Fàbrica dels Reis See Fri 1. (Plaça de Sant Jaume). d’Orient M: Jaume I (L4). See Sat 2. Fàbrica de Fabra i Coats (Sant FREE Fira de Reis de la Gran Via Adrià, 18-24). M: Sant Andreu (L1). See Fri 1. (Gran Via Corts Catalanes,

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580, between C/Rocafort and C/ El Born Centre Cultural corners of Gaudí’s popular children’s pop groups. Muntaner). See Sat 2. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: building, and Ɓnd out about the El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). changes it’s gone through. Comercial, 12. Sala Moragues). M: Sports (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4), Arc de (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Every Triomf (L1). Noon. €15. Reduced €10. 68 Torneig Internacional Thursday 7 Saturday 12.15pm. €12. d’Hoquei de Reis See Sun 3. Reial Club de Polo de Kids Sortim a navegar amb el Traditions Barcelona (Av. Doctor Marañón, pailebot Santa Eulàlia 19-31). M: Zona Universitaria (L3) El somni de volar See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av. FREE Cavalcada dels Tres See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Tombs a Sant Antoni Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Drassanes (L3). To celebrate Saint Anthony the Kids Abbot, protector of domestic El Born Centre Cultural animals, horses, household pets El somni de volar Tours See Sat 2. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: and other animals, as well as See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). horse-drawn carriages and Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins traditional tradespeople, parade See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, around the Sant Antoni district. entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: Kids Neighbourhood of Sant Antoni. Tours Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. M: Poble Sec (L3), Rocafort & El somni de volar Urgell (L1), Sant Antoni (L2). More Torre Bellesguard | See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac info: www.barcelona.cat. See Sat 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Friday 8 Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Av. Tibidabo (FGC). Tours Monday 11 Sunday 10 Wednesday 6 Torre Bellesguard | Tours See Sat 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Football Sports Tibidabo (FGC). Liceu opera house * League fixture. FC Discover Barcelona’s glorious 68 Torneig Internacional Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Barcelona – Granada FC opera house, carefully restored d’Hoquei de Reis See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, Barça take on the side from the after a devastating Ɓre in 1994. See Sun 3. Reial Club de Polo de 1). M: Jaume I (L4). south of Spain. Date and time TBC. (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Barcelona (Av. Doctor Marañón, For more info: www.fcbarcelona. Mon-Fri 9.30am & 10.30am. €16. 19-31). M: Zona Universitaria (L3). Sant Pau modernista cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, monument| s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). Palau de la Música Once a working hospital, this Tour this emblematic building of Kids network of pavilions was designed Catalan modernisme. by Lluís Domenech i Montaner. Tours (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: El somni de volar (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Tours Santa Maria del Mar rooftop 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. in various languages; consult for See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, (reduced). schedule. Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm. 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Sun, public holidays 10am- Traditions 2.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced). FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Tuesday 12 Cemetery FREE Pessebre a la Plaça de Visit Barcelona’s hillside Tours Sant Jaume Kids graveyard, which is as much an art See Fri 1. (Plaça de Sant Jaume). museum as a Ɓnal resting-place. Liceu opera house M: Jaume I (L4). El somni de volar Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de See Mon 11. (La Rambla 51-59). See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya M: Liceu (L3). Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. (L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Sun Tours 11.15am (Spanish). Torre Bellesguard | See Sat 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Saturday 9 Tibidabo (FGC). Spectacular night-time event that Kids includes rooftop video mapping, Tours Palau de la Música screenings in different parts of the El somni de volar See Mon 11. building and a glass of cava. Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Sat 2. CosmoCaixa (Isaac (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: (Provença, 261-265, entrance on See Sat 2. Newton, 26). FGC: Av. Tibidabo. Urquinaona (L1, L4). Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal (L3, (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume L5), FGC: Provença. Jan 1-3 9pm- I (L4). Bornet de cançons – Macedònia Sant Pau modernista 11pm. From Jan 4 7pm-9pm. Closed The other Pedrera Upbeat pop for kids with one of monument Jan 11-17. €34. Reduced: €17. Extended visit to discover hidden Catalonia’s best-known and See Fri 8. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret,

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167). M: Sant Pau/Dos de Maig Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. M: Liceu (L3). (L5). Saturday 23 Palau de la Música Saturday 16 See Mon 11. (Palau de la Música, Tours Wednesday 13 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Tours Gaudí’s Pedrera. Tours The Origins Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Tuesday 19 See Tue 1. (Provença, 261-265, Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Tours Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Sortim a navegar amb el Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi Sortim a navegar amb el pailebot Santa Eulàlia See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu pailebot Santa Eulàlia Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av. (L3). See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av. Visit the 14th-century Basilica of de les Drassanes, s/n). M: de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Santa Maria del Pi and its Drassanes (L3). Torre Bellesguard | Drassanes (L3). belltower. See Sat 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Noon, Tibidabo (FGC). The other Pedrera 1.30pm, 5pm. Catalan, Spanish, Sunday 17 See Sat 9. (Provença, 261-265). M: English. €10 (adults). €8 (children Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. 7-16 years). Reservations: www. Football Wednesday 20 tickets.visitbarcelona.com and www.adsentia.com. * League fixture. FC Tours Kids Barcelona – Athletic Club de Bilbao Torre Bellesguard | Concerts familiars – Setze Thursday 14 Another chance to see the wonder See Sat 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. cordes team in action, as they take on the Tibidabo (FGC). A specially designed family Cinema Basque side. Date and time TBC. concert, which places kids centre- For more info: www.fcbarcelona. Palau de la Música stage as music and song unfolds Inauguration of the 15th cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, See Mon 11. (Palau de la Música, around them. Xcèntric season s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries The CCCB’s festival of & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). underground, avant-garde, El Born Centre Cultural Jan 23 noon, 5.30pm. Jan 24 experimental and hard-to-Ɓnd Ɓlms Tours See Sat 2. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: 10.30am, noon, 5.30pm. Jan 31 of all kinds. Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). 10.30am, noon, 5.30pm. €10. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya Santa Maria del Mar rooftop (L1,L3;FGC). www.cccb.org. See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Thursday 21 Traditions

Tours FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Tours FREE Cavalcada dels Tres Cemetery Tombs a Sant Andreu Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi See Sun 3. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins The traditional parade of animals See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu Llacuna (L4). See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, and historic trades in honour of (L3). entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: Saint Anthony the Abbot, in the Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Sant Andreu district. Kids Barri de Sant Andreu. M: Sant Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi Andreu (L1). More info: www. See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, Concerts familiars al Palau – See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu barcelona.cat. entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: Kantikipugui (L3). Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Singers from the Palau’s own choir explore the secret universe of Sunday 24 childhood in this family concert. Friday 22 Friday 15 Palau de la Música (Palau de la Football Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Tours Tours (L1,L4). Noon. €11. For children 6 * League fixture. RCD years and above. Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi Espanyol – Villarreal CF Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu The Valencian side, nicknamed See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). ‘The Yellow Submarine’ visit (L3). Monday 18 Espanyol in another league match. Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Date and time TBC. Gaudí’s Pedrera. Tours See Wed 6. www.rcdespanyol.com. The Origins (Provença, 261-265, entrance on Estadi Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, Liceu opera house Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: See Mon 11. (La Rambla 51-59). (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà.

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M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC). storytellers, performances, Universitat (L1,L2), Catalunya Kids workshops and activities. (L1,L3). CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Concerts familiars – Setze Wednesday 27 Universitat (L1,L2), Catalunya cordes (L1,L3). Jan 30-31. More info: www. Football See Sat 23. Tours cccb.org L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries * League fixture. FC & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Sant Pau modernista Barcelona – Club Atlético de monument| Kids Madrid See Fri 8. (Sant Antoni Maria It’s another big match for Barça as Tours Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau/ La Petita Flauta Màgica Messi, Neymar, Sánchez et al take Dos de Maig (L5). Mozart’s great opera on the Madrid team in the second Book your Santa Maria del Mar rooftop favourite retold for children – as half of the Spanish league. Date and See Sat 2. restaurants at ‘Papageno’s Big time TBC. For more info: www. (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume Gaudí’s Pedrera. timeout.com/ Adventure’ – in a fun fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou (Aristides I (L4). The Origins barcelona adaptation that has Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). See Wed 6. (Provença, become a classic at the FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc 261-265, entrance on Liceu. Cemetery Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Kids See Sun 10. (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 6pm. Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de €13. For kids 6 years and above. El Born en família Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Espanya See Sat 30. El Born Centre Cultural (L1, L3; FGC). Thursday 28 El Born en família (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & A children’s theatre show about Barceloneta (L4), Arc de Triomf (L1). Gaudí’s Pedrera. Tours the secretive lives of underground Noon. The Origins rodents. ‘Seven Little Mice’ uses See Wed 6. La Pedrera by Day puppetry and storytelling to tell the Concerts familiars al Palau – (Provença, 261-265, entrance on See Fri 1. (Provença, 261-265). M: tale of a mousey adventure. Simfònic Ara! Passeig de Gràcia). M: Diagonal (L3, Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Virtuouso violinist Teimuraz L5), FGC: Provenç Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I & Janikashvili leads audeinces on a Sant Pau modernista Barceloneta (L4), Arc de Triomf (L1). hilarious and unconventional foray monument Jan 30 5pm. Jan 31 noon. into symphonic music. Monday 25 See Fri 8. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, Recommended for kids 3 and older. Palau de la Música (Palau de la 167). M: Sant Pau/Dos de Maig Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Tours (L5). (L1,L4). 10.30am, 12.30am. €15. Tours For children 6 years and above. Liceu opera house See Mon 11. Friday 29 Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Concerts familiars – Setze (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). See Sat 2. cordes Tours (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume See Sat 23. L’Auditori (Lepant, La Pedrera by Day I (L4). 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), See Fri 1. Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins Monumental (L2). (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, The other Pedrera (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: See Sat 9. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença. Tours Sant Pau modernista monument Sant Pau modernista El Born Centre Cultural Santa Maria del Mar rooftop See Fri 8. monument See Sat 2. (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: See Sat 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: See Fri 8. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). 167). M: Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Sortim a navegar amb el Sant Pau modernista pailebot Santa Eulàlia monument| Tuesday 26 Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi See Sat 2. Maritime Museum (Av. See Fri 8. (Sant Antoni Maria See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau/Dos de Tours (L3) Drassanes (L3). Maig (L5).

Palau de la Música Gaudí’s Pedrera. The Origins See Mon 11. Saturday 30 Sunday 31 See Wed 6. (Provença, 261-265, (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: entrance on Passeig de Gràcia). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Family festival Family festival Diagonal (L3, L5), FGC: Provença.

Torre Bellesguard | Flic Festival Flic Festival Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi See Sat 2. The children’s literature festival See Sat 30. See Wed 13. (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (Bellesguard, 6-9). returns to the CCCB, with CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: (L3).

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Architecture de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) 72 00. 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 Gaudí Experience & FGC: Colònia Güell (S4, S8, (reduced). Under-10s free. (Larrard, 41). M: Vallcarca, Basílica de la S33). T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri Step inside one of the most Lesseps (L3). T. 93 285 44 40. Sagrada Família 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun, public hols beautiful modernista buildings 10.30am-6pm. Closed Jan 6. €9. (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada 10am-3pm. Closed Jan 1, 6. €9 in the city, today a UNESCO €7.50 (reduced). Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. (incl. audio guide). €7.50 World Heritage Site. A fascinating interactive journey 9am-6pm. Jan 1, 6 9am-2pm. (reduced). Gaudí’s hidden that uses 4-D technology to take Guided tour/with audio guide: treasure is a UNESCO World Sant Pau, modernista you inside Gaudí’s universe. €19.50. Barcelona’s most Heritage Site inside Colònia monument famous landmark, begun by Güell, a planned textile factory (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). Poble Espanyol Antoni Gaudí in 1891 and and residential area 20 mins M: Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, unƁnished to this day. Ticket from Barcelona. Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm; Sun, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 sales help fund the ongoing public hols 10am-2.30pm. Closed 508 63 00. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue- construction of Spain’s most Gran Teatre del Liceu Jan 1, 6. Self-guided tour: €8. Thu, Sun 9am-midnight; Fri 9am- popular tourist attraction. (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu €5.60 (reduced). Guided tour 3am; Sat 9am-4am. €12. €7, (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided (various times): €14. €9.80 €8.40, €9.50 (reduced). Basílica de tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. (reduced). First Sunday of month Built for the 1929 Barcelona Santa Maria del Mar €16. 25-minute tour: Daily and under-16s free. More info: Expo, Poble Espanyol is an (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). (various times). €8. www.santpaubarcelona.org. open-air museum on Montjuïc M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 310 23 90. www.liceubarcelona.cat Tour the buildings and grounds of with replicas of streets, squares Mon-Sat 9am-1pm, 5pm- Visit one of the world’s great Hospital Sant Pau, one of the and buildings from all over 8.30pm; Sun and public holidays opera houses: discover the world’s largest Art Nouveau Spain. Regularly hosts live 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm. impressive concert hall and monuments, restored and opened music events. Wheelchair access. Known as exclusive private rooms that to the public in 2014. the ‘cathedral of the Ribera’, make this one of Barcelona’s Tibidabo Amusement Park this church is one of the most most emblematic buildings. Torre Bellesguard (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus perfect examples of Gothic (Bellesguard, 6-9). FGC: Av. Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça architecture, thanks to the La Pedrera Tibidabo. T. 93 250 40 93. Tue- Catalunya. FGC: Av. Tibidabo + harmony of its proportions and (Provença, 261–265). Sun 10am-3pm. Last entry: Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + its inherent serenity. M: Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 2.30pm. Closed Mon and Jan 1, Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 202 138. Jan 1 11am-8.30pm. 6. Panoramic tour (audio guide to 79 42. Jan 2-5 noon-5pm. Closed Basílica de Jan 2-3 9am-8.30pm. Last entry: exterior, remains of Martin the Jan 6-Mar 5. Sky Walk: €12.70. Santa Maria del Pi 8pm. Jan 4-10, 18-31 9am- Humane’s palace, audiovisual Children under 120cm: €7.80. (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) & 6.30pm. Last entry: 6pm. Closed centre): €9. Guided tour (tower, Amusement park: €28.50. Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. Jan 11-17. €20.50. €16.50 roof terrace): €16; in English – Children under 120cm: €10.30. 10am-6pm. Closed Jan 1, 6. €4. (reduced). Many Barcelona Sat, Sun 11am. Discover the Inaugurated in 1899, Tibidabo €3 (reduced). Guided tour residents regard this as Gaudí’s modernista castle that Antoni features both classic rides and (including bell tower): Sat noon, true masterpiece. The roof Gaudí built at the foot of new attractions with amazing 1.30pm, 5pm, 6.30pm; Sun terrace represents modernista Tibidado mountain. views over the city. noon, 1.30pm, 5pm (book in architechture at its Ɓnest. Enjoy advance). €10. €8 (reduced). La the spectacular design at night Leisure PortAventura Basílica del Pi Secreta (night- with ‘Gaudi’s Pedrera. The (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. time tour): Thu, Fri 9pm (9.20pm Origins’, a tour and rooftop Aire de Barcelona, Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port English); Sat 9.30pm (9.50pm videomapping with multiple Arab Baths Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. Jan English). One of Barcelona’s screenings and music (Jan 1-3 (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: 1-6 10am-7pm. Closed Jan grandest Gothic churches, with 9pm-11pm; from Jan 4 7pm- Barceloneta, Jaume I (L4). T. 93 7-Mar 19. For prices visit tourist great views from its bell tower. 9pm. Closed Jan 11-17). 5WP6JWƁTUVGPVT[ QHƁEGUQTUGGRQTVCXGPVWTCGU 10am; last entry between 10pm An hour south of Barcelona, Casa Batlló Palau Güell and midnight; Fri, Sat: last entry this theme park has six zones (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: between midnight and 2am. of attractions, processions, Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 www.airedebarcelona.com. eateries and shops. 06. 9am-9pm. Last entry: 8pm. 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am- These gorgeous Arab baths Tour and video guide: €22.50. 5.30pm. Last entry: 4.30pm. revive the ancient tradition of Barcelona Zoo €19.50 (reduced). casabatllo.cat. Closed Mon (except public hols) bathing as a form of relaxation. (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: The sensuality and harmony of its and Jan 1, 6, 18-24. €12. €8 Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ interior, combined with Gaudí’s (reduced). Built by Gaudí in the Barcelona Urban Forest Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 use of colours, shapes and light, late 19th century, this palace (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El 45. Daily 10am-5.30pm. €19.90. make this a must-see for admirers belonged to his principal patron. Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 Children (ages 3-12): €11.95. of the architect’s work. 34 26. Sat, Sun, public holidays Open for more than 100 years, Palau de la Música 10am-3pm. €11-€27 (depending this is one of the city’s best- Gaudí Crypt Catalana on age and circuit). Zip lines, loved attractions, home to more at Colònia Güell (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: trampolines and bungee than 2,000 animals (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 jumping for high-adrenaline fun. representing over 315 species.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 41 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] The Arts @eugeniasendra How to draw in the stars The Gaspar family strikes back, with a contemporary art foundation on C/Montcada. By Eugènia Sendra MARIA DIAS

Change is afoot at Montcada, 25. the city more relevant at an was planning the project, he Hangar Bicocca in Milan, and The palace that, until 2012 was international level and to revive happened on the Palau Cervelló, New York’s New Museum and home to the Maeght gallery, a local audiences’ appetite for a stone’s throw from where he MoMA PS1. ‘We’re dynamic, long-time fixture on the city’s art contemporary art. opened his first gallery when he small and independent; we don’t scene, has reopened as a The promotor reflects that ‘it was 16, and just along the street want people to think that foundation linked to another doesn’t make sense to exhibit from the Museu Picasso. ‘This is contemporary art is just one historic name, that of Sala Jeff Koons or Damien Hirst in the ideal site, not a Gehry thing, and we want to show as Gaspar. The project is headed by building,’ he quips. In addition to much as we can, while Moishan Gaspar, who three years the location, the 1,500 square maximising quality and ago decided to revitalise the metres of floor space will allow relevance.’ Their inaugural project of the family gallery on Our galleries them to accommodate a café – in exhibition is Art Strikes Back!, a Plaça Letamendi in the Eixample. which the family heritage is collaboration with Swiss gallery ‘It was going well, but I had the can’t compete apparent – a book and gift shop, Hauser & Wirth. Running until the feeling it wasn’t the way forward,’ with NYC or where they’ll also exhibit limited end of March, it brings together Gaspar explains. ‘If you want to edition works by artists such as some 20 key contemporary be relevant, you have to move London, but Tacita Dean, and multipurpose works of art from figures such as into a globalised world, even if foundations can rooms for all kinds of activities, Louise Bourgeois, Paul McCarthy, your essence is local.’ as well as the exhibition spaces Dieter Roth, Martin Creed, Barcelona, because there’s no themselves. Subodh Gupta and Rita Relevance and quality market for them. We can’t When quizzed about the Ackermann. The Gaspar Foundation is a move compete with galleries in New foundation’s artistic philosophy, away from the commercial spirit of York or London.’ Foundations like the promoter emphasises an Fundació Gaspar is open every the gallery, and as an institution it theirs can help fill this gap. eclectic approach, citing places day from 10am to 8pm. €3-€5. hopes both to contribute to making Gaspar explains that while he that inspire him, such as the www.fundaciogaspar.org

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Mozart maestro Fantastic world

Classical music fans rejoice. This Cirque du Soleil returns to Barcelona with its month sees Sir John Eliot Gardiner alternative ending to the Icarus myth visit Barcelona as part of a six- date tour of major European cities See 2016 in with a bang, a wide- drowning in the sea, Icarus lands the British conductor is doing with open mouth and possibly just a in a lush forest full of exotic his Monteverdi Choir and English few nerves with the arrival of creatures. It turns out that the Baroque Soloists. Gardiner is Cirque du Soleil’s Varekai touring forest is located on the peak of a regarded as a key Ɓ gure in the show in Barcelona. This volcano, and it’s a place where revival of early music witnessed in contemporary circus troupe has anything is possible. The recent times, and he regularly been entertaining characters twist, turn, skate, collaborates with symphony millions around dangle, flip and all but fly, as orchestras around the world. the world for Icarus takes advantage This tour also takes in London, over three of the second chance Zurich and Salzburg, with a decades, he’s been given. changing programme each time. In since two Another attraction of Barcelona, the highlight will be former street Varekai is the live music Mozart’s ‘Great Mass in C Minor’, there will be a half-hour discussion performers created the that accompanies the one of the Austrian composer’s about the performance. group in Canada back in on-stage thrills. last efforts at a musical setting for –Hannah Pennell 1984. They now have 20 Composed by Violaine the Mass (although he didn’t different productions on Corradi, it’s performed actually complete it, the piece was Sir John Eliot Gardiner the go including the tribute by seven musicians premiered in Salzburg in 1783), conducts the Monteverdi Choir shows Michael Jackson ONE and two singers, and along with a symphony that is yet and English Baroque Soloists at and The Beatles LOVE, which combines sounds from to be announced. If you want to L’Auditori (Lepant, 150) on Sun are both currently playing in Hawaii, France and Armenia expand your Mozart experience, 24 at 7pm. €10-€88. Las Vegas (along with six as well as gospel music. Such an hour before the concert starts, www.auditori.cat other spectacles). For its internationality is also part, Varekai (which reƂ ected in those taking means ‘wherever’ in part in the show, with the Romanian) is just one of 95-member cast and crew There are no words... nine Cirque du Soleil representing some 25 performances touring the different nationalities. world right now. Low-key this –H.P. organisation is not. But then it’s not really any surprise FOOTNOTE Varekai has that they’ve decided to been seen by around 6 exploit the great success million people to date. their combination of acrobatics, music and extravagant sets have achieved down the years. As ‘Varekai’ traditional circuses have January 1-10 fallen out of favour with (except Jan 6). Palau Sant Jordi. global audiences, the €29-€79 amazing contortions and Ask any Catalan who Joan Gràcia, are good you’ll get the punchline Ƃ amboyant style of Cirque du Paco Mir and Carles Sans are, and anyway, with these masters of Soleil have been welcomed chances are a smile will come to physical comedy giving it their all with open arms. their lips. That’s because this trio, for 80 minutes of fun. From humble The storyline of Varekai, known collectively as Tricicle, beginnings at the tail end of the which premiered in 2002, are one of the area’s best-known 1970s, when they performed on starts with the famous theatre groups, particularly streets and in alternative spaces, Greek myth of Icarus, that adored for their humorous mime Gràcia, Mir and Sans progressed confident young man whose performances. BITS is their latest via theatre and television to win a father made them both wings production and features a series of special place in the hearts of many, out of wax so they could fly to rapid-Ɓ re jokes based on ‘bits’ of both at home and abroad. –H.P. freedom. Despite his pa’s information, with the aim of warnings, the son then flew reaching the highest number of BITS is at the Teatre Poliorama too close to the sun, causing gags per minute. While some of the (La Rambla, 115) until Sun 31, the wings to melt and his fall to scenarios may feature an element daily except Mon and Tue. €10- earth. However, in this new of local culture or colour, chances €32. www.teatrepoliorama.com take on the story, rather than

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dancers, and the rhythms of the (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). Thu, cajón, heels and palms. Fri, Sat 8pm-10pm. Show + drink Classical Music (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5; €16.90; show + supper €27.90. FGC). Daily 6.25pm, 8.15pm & Johann Strauss – New Year’s 10.30pm. Options: show only; show Concert with ballet Friday 1 + one drink; show + different menu Classical See Fri 1. Palau de la Música options (including tapas). €45- Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Classical €160. €10 discount at tourist The art of the Spanish guitar: M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. QHƁEGURCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO music and wine Johann Strauss – New Year’s Flamenco and classical sounds. New Year Concert with Concert with ballet Promising Young Flamenco Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Barcelona Municipal Band The Strauss Festival Orchestra and Stars 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Lively dances from around the Ballet Ensemble with a set inspired Up-and-coming stars from the ROa&KUEQWPVCVVQWTKUVQHƁEGU world to welcome the New Year, by Vienna’s New Year’s waltz fest. world of contemporary Ƃamenco. Info: tickets.visitbarcelona.com. with the music of Rossini, Falla, Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Tablao Cordobes. (La Rambla, 35). Strauss and other composers. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Spanish guitar maestros L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1, L4). Jan 1, 3, 10, 16, 17. 6pm 6.30pm, 8.15pm, 10pm, 11.30pm. Barcelona Guitar Trio perform. & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). (except Jan 1, 9pm). €27-€54. €44-€78.50. tablaocordobes.com Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 6pm. €20. Reduced €15. www.promoconcert.es de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Live Flamenco (L1, L4). 5pm. €30-€35. www. The art of the Spanish guitar: The art of the Spanish guitar: The passion of Ƃamenco in an tickets.visitbarcelona.com music and wine music and wine intimate tablao on the Plaça Reial. See Sat 2. Santa Anna Church Flamenco in candlelit concert. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Choir, Ballet and Orchestra of (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Liceu (L3). Daily 8.30pm, 9.30pm, Sant Petersburg Army L3; FGC). 6pm. 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 10.30pm. €10 (on the door). €8 Over 100 perfomers bring to life 7pm. €20. Discount at tourist (web). www.masimas.com/tarantos the some of Russia’s best-known Spanish guitar maestros QHƁEGU+PHQTOCVKQPCV songs and dances. See Fri 1. Santa Maria del Pi www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Flamenco show dedicated to L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Camarón de la Isla & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Spanish guitar maestros Casa Camerón celebrates the 9.30pm. €26-€45. Barcelona Guitar Trio perform in a legacy of a Ƃamenco legend. Flamenco beautiful setting. Santa Maria del Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, 230). Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Sagrada Jazz Stories of Love (L3). 9pm. €23. www.tickets. Família (L2,L5). Mon-Sat 8pm A full cast performs the traditions visitbarcelona.com (supper), 9pm-10pm (show). Live Jazz of opera, zarzuela and Ƃamenco. www.casacamaron.com. Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9.30pm. Jazz Flamenco at Palau Dalmases M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double From €38. Info: www.tickets. A baroque space is the setting for a session). Cover charge €8. visitbarcelona.com Jazzcare All Stars – 60th live Ƃamenco show. Anniversary Concert (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). An all-star line-up created for the Daily 6pm, 7.30pm, 9.30pm. €25 Rock Monday 4 occasion relives Louis Armstrong’s (includes one drink). www.tickets. December 1955 debut in visitbarcelona.com Rock Symphony Festive Barcelona, playing many of the An orchestral tribute to the biggest numbers he performed then. names in rock, from Deep Purple FREE Christmas concerts in Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Saturday 2 and Queen to Led Zeppelin and the Plaça del Rei . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  Rolling Stones. Catalan Christmas carols in a €15 (online in advance). Flamenco Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau historic square. www.masimas.com/jamboree de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (Plaça del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). Flamenco at Palau Dalmases (L1, L4). Jan 2, 9pm. Jan 23, 7.30pm. More information at: See Fri 1. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume 10.30pm. €26-€53. www.barcelona.cat/nadal. Flamenco I (L4). www.promoconcert.es

Stories of Love Flamenco show dedicated to Classical A full cast performs the traditions of Camarón de la Isla Sunday 3 opera, zarzuela and Ƃamenco. See Fri 1. Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, 230). Jazz – Funk – Hip hop Vivaldi’s most popular work, de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Sagrada performed by the Ukranian State (L1, L4). 5pm. €20-€50. Info: Família (L2,L5). Live Jazz Symphony Orchestra. www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com. Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Tablao Flamenco Nervión (Ronda Universitat, 35). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Palacio del Flamenco show City centre restaurant hosts M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double (L1, L4). 9pm. €26-€53. A full cast of guitarists, singers and Ƃamenco performance. session). Cover charge €8. www.promoconcert.es

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Spanish guitar maestros Andrea Motis pays homage to the Pedro J. González performs in a Funk - Soul undisputed queen of jazz. Classical beautiful setting. Santa Maria del Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu Soul Sisters Blackcelona at . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  Strauss Gala/INSO Lemberg (L3). 9pm. €23. www.tickets. Jamboree €15 (online in advance). www. The International New Symphony of visitbarcelona.com The biggest female soul, funk and masimas.com/jamboree Lemberg in a gala performance of R&B voices in BCN come together the music of Strauss. for a unique concert. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Jazz (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Thursday 7 de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona ROa DQZQHƁEG a (L1, L4). Jan 8-9. 9pm. €37. WTF Jam Session (online in advance). www. Classical www.concertsabarcelona.com Anything goes at the long-running masimas.com/jamboree. jam hosted by Aurelio Santos. Gustavo Dudamel + Symphonic Abba Find more Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu concerts on our Orquesta Sinfónica Abba’s music performed in . ROa DQZQHƁEG a QPNKPG Wednesday 6 website Simón Bolívar de symphonic versions by female in advance). www.masimas.com/ timeout.com/ Venezuela quartet The Amazones. jamboree. Classical barcelona Messiaen’s Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Turangalila draws on de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Spanish guitar the legend of Tristan and (L1, L4). 10pm. €26-€53. Flamenco maestros Isolde: 20th-century music www.promoconcert.es See Tue 5. Santa Maria del Pi performed with Dudamel’s Flamenco show dedicated to Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). customary verve. The art of the Spanish guitar: Camarón de la Isla Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau music and wine See Fri 1. The art of the Spanish guitar: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Carmen, Barcelona Duo de Guitar Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, 230). music and wine (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€140. perform candlelit concert. M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Sagrada Discover the soul of Ƃamenco. Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Família (L2,L5). Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). Jazz – Funk – Hip hop 7pm. €20. Discount at tourist Stories of Love 9pm, €20 (discount at tourist QHƁEGU+PHQTOCVKQPVKEMGVU See Sun 3. Teatre Poliorama (La QHƁEGU VKEMGVUXKUKVDCTEGNQPCEQO Live Jazz visitbarcelona.com. Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. L3). 7pm. (Ronda Universitat, 35). Gospel M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double Flamenco session). Cover charge €8. Tuesday 5 Mississipi Gospel Choir Flamenco show dedicated to A 20-strong choir explores the Camarón de la Isla Flamenco roots of American gospel. Flamenco See Fri 1. Casa Camarón (Roger de Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Promising Young Flamenco de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Tablao Flamenco Nervión Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Stars (L1, L4). 9pm. €26-€53. www. See Sat 2. See Fri 1. (La Rambla, 35). promoconcert.es (Princesa, 2). M: Jaume I (L4). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Saturday 9

Palacio del Flamenco show Flamenco Opera Classical See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5; FGC). Flamenco show dedicated to Opera at Palau Dalmases Strauss Gala/Philharmonic de Camarón de la Isla La Petita Companyia Lírica de Lemberg See Fri 1. Barcelona perform in a historical See Jan 8. Palau de la Música Classical Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, 230). venue. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Sagrada (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Spanish guitar maestros Família (L2,L5). Every Thu. 11pm. €20. Info: www. OBC Concert – Gladiator Live Xavier Coll performs in the stunning palaudalmases.com. Hans Zimmer’s epic soundtrack to basilica. Santa Maria del Pi Church Gran Gala Flamenco the Ɓlm Gladiator, performed live to (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. Enjoy a grand performance of the accompany the Ɓlm. €23. tickets.visitbarcelona.com classic Spanish music genre. Friday 8 L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. From Blues Jan 9, 7pm. Jan 10, 11am. €48. Jazz – Funk – Hip hop €38. tickets.visitbarcelona.com Blues at the MEAM – Oscar Musical hits from Live Jazz Linares & Andrea Capalbo the films Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Jazz From the Ɓrst blues recordings to A selection from some of (Ronda Universitat, 35). the themes of the ’50s. Hollywood’s great soundtracks. M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double Billie Holiday Tribute (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau session). Cover charge €8. The Joan Chamorro quartet with Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona

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(L1, L4). Jan 9, 9pm. Jan 24, 7pm. See Sat 8. Santa Anna Church Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu €27-€54. www.promoconcert.es (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Wednesday 13 . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  L3;FGC). 6pm. €25 (online in advance). www. The art of the Spanish guitar: Classical masimas.com/jamboree music and wine Spanish guitar maestros See Wed 6. Santa Anna Church Luís Robisco gives a recital in this Spanish guitar maestros (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, beautiful church. See Tue 5. Opera L3;FGC). Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. tickets. 7). M: Liceu (L3). Opera at Palau Dalmases Jazz visitbarcelona.com See Thu 7. Flamenco (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Live Jazz Monday 11 Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Flamenco show dedicated to Friday 15 (Ronda Universitat, 35). Classical Camarón de la Isla M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double See Fri 1. Casa Camarón (Roger de Flamenco session). Cover charge €8. Palau 100 – Mitsuko Uchida Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Recognised as one of the great Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Promising Young Flamenco interpreters of Mozart’s music, Stars Flamenco pianist Uchida leads the Mahler Flamenco at Palau See Fri 1. Chamber Orchestra in a selection Dalmases (La Rambla, 35). Palacio del Flamenco show of his work. See Fri 1. M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15-€100. Classical Live Flamenco Pop – Neo-soul See Fri 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça Spanish Gala. From classical to Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Jazz – Funk – Hip hop Neddermann Sisters flamenco Consummate covers and original Discover Andalusia through music WTF Jam Session compositions from sisters Judit with extracts from El Amor Brujo Sunday 10 See Mon 4. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, and Meritxell Neddermann. and La Vida Breve, among others. 17). M: Liceu (L3). Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Jazz – Funk – Hip hop . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona €10 (online in advance). www. (L1, L4). 9pm. €26-€53. www. Live Jazz Flamenco masimas.com/jamboree promoconcert.es Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. (Ronda Universitat, 35). Flamenco show dedicated to OBC Concert – Beethoven’s M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double Camarón de la Isla Thursday 14 Ninth session). Cover charge €8. See Fri 1. Guest conductor Jan Willem de Casa Camarón (Roger de Flor, 230). Classical Vriend leads the OBC in M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), Sagrada Beethoven’s hymn to fraternity. Classical Família (L2,L5). Palau 100 Piano – Nikolai L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Demidenko & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). OBC Concert – Gladiator Live Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Recital of Chopin, Medtner and Jan 15, 8.30pm. Jan 16, 7pm. See Sat 9. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). See Fri 1. Rachmaninoff’s works. Jan 17, 11am. €10-€56. M: Glòries & Marina (L1), (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Monumental (L2). 11am. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €25. Jazz Johann Strauss – New Year’s Tuesday 12 Concert with ballet Hammond Cycle 5J See Fri 1. Palau de la Música Classical Flamenco Gael Horellou presents Organ Trio. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. The art of the Spanish guitar: Promising Young Flamenco . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  music and wine Stars €25 (online in advance). www. Concierto de Aranjuez See Fri 8. Santa Anna Church See Fri 1. (La Rambla, 35). masimas.com/jamboree Rodrigo’s best-known work (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). features in a night dedicated to the L3;FGC). 7pm. Spanish guitar. Palau de la Música Blues Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Jazz M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 5.30pm. Flamenco Blues at the MEAM €26-€53. www.promoconcert.es Hammond Cycle 5J Blues and swing at the European Palacio del Flamenco show Generations featuring Fred Wesley Museum of Modern Art. The art of the Spanish guitar: See Fri 1. (Balmes, 139). M: with Leonardo Corradi and Toni (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). music and wine Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Match. Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es.

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Singer-songwriter Jazz

Songs in the Born – Lluís Llach Black Pearl: tribute to Jimmy Catalan singer-songwriter Lluís McGriff Llach presents performances Victor Puertas pays homage to the from the winners of the 8th king of the Hammond B3 organ Miquel Martí i Pol prizes. with a seven-piece backing band. El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Comercial, 12, Sala Moragues). ROa DQZQHƁEG a M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4), (online in advance). www.masimas. Arc de Triomf (L1). 8pm. €15. com/jamboree. Reduced €10. Sunday 17 Saturday 16 Classical Singer-songwriter Johann Strauss – New Year’s Songs in the Born – Jordi Concert with ballet Guerrero See Fri 1. Palau de la Música Flamenco guitarist Jordi Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Guerrero presents song and M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. dance spectacle Egonáutica. El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Munich Philharmonic Orchestra Comercial, 12, Sala Moragues). The Munich Philharmonic, directed M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4), by Valery Gergiev, performs Arc de Triomf (L1). 8pm. €15. Wagner’s Lohengrin, Scriabin’s Reduced €10. Poem of Ecstasy and Tchaikovsky’s Pathétique symphony. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Classical & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). 7pm. €27-€138. Johann Strauss – New Year’s Concert with ballet OBC Concert – Beethoven’s See Fri 1. Ninth Palau de la Música Catalana See Fri 15. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: M: Glòries & Marina (L1), Urquinaona (L1, L4). 6pm. Monumental (L2). 11am.

Welcome to Broadway The Feel’armonia quartet, Young musicians backed by the Broadway Symphony Orchestra, perform Musical residencies series the great showtunes. Harpist Esther Pinyol performs Palau de la Música Catalana works by Brotons and Guinovart (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: among others, with Ferran Urquinaona (L1, L4). 10pm. Carceller on marimba. €26-€53. Fundació Catalunya–La Pedrera www.promoconcert.es (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3,L5), FGC: Provença. 6pm. €10. Music at the Museum of More info: www.lapedrera.com Catalan Modernisme Works by Bach, Mozart, E. Morera and J. Vila performed by Jazz the Ƃautists of the Quartet Morera. Gerard Nieto Organ–Izing (Balmes, 48). M: Pg. de Gràcia The Hammond 57 cycle Ɓnale with (L2,L3, L4). www.mmcat.cat. local keyboard maestro Gerard Nieto’s tribute to the classic sound Spanish guitar maestros of organ with sax, on a joinery from See Mon 4. shufƂe to be-bop. Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9.30pm. . ROROa DQZQHƁEG 

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€12 (online in advance). www. Asturian singer-songwriter Nacho Music in the Born – Winter masimas.com/jamboree Tuesday 19 Vegas. Palau de la Música concert Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Performance of pieces from Toldrà, Classical M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. Garreta and Montsalvatge. Rock €16-€36. El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. The art of the Spanish guitar: Comercial, 12, Sala Moragues). M: Suite Festival – Sopa de Cabra music and wine Songs in the Born – Guillem Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4), Arc de The Catalan group present their See Wed 6. Santa Anna Church Roma and Friends Triomf (L1). 8pm. latest album, Cercles. Gran Teatre (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, Guillem Roma’s Camping Band del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). L3;FGC). Orchestra plays worlds music from Spanish guitar M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €15-€65. Mexico to the Balkans. maestros El Born Centre Cultural (Pl. Concert by musician Manuel Jazz – Funk – Hip hop Comercial, 12, Sala Moragues). González. Flamenco M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4), Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, Live Jazz Arc de Triomf (L1). 8pm. €15. 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. tickets. Flamenco show dedicated to Live jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar. Reduced €10. visitbarcelona.com Camarón de la Isla (Ronda Universitat, 35). See Fri 1. Casa Camarón (Roger de M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm (double Flor, 230). M: Verdaguer (L4,L5), session). Cover charge €8. Jazz Singer-songwriter Sagrada Família (L2,L5). Joan Chamorro presents Marc Víctor Manuel Live Flamenco Rock Martín Spanish singer-songer and living See Fri 1. Sala Tarantos (Plaça A rising star from Joan Chamorro’s national treasure Victor Manuel Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Elliot Murphy & Olivier Durand Sant Andreu Jazz Band project, looks back over his long career. Musician, poet, singer and rock Marc Martín is a keyboard prodigy. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau legend Elliot Murphy with his Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Monday 18 regular partner in song, Olivier . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  (L1, L4). 9pm. €15-€52. Durand. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: €10 (online in advance). www. Classical Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €35 (box masimas.com/jamboree QHƁEG a QPNKPGKPCFXCPEG  Jazz Jordi Savall www.masimas.com/jamboree Internationally renowned expert on Opera Scott Hamilton & Toni Solà Early Music Jordi Savall performs Quintet works from the French Baroque, Wednesday 20 Otello by Giuseppe Verdi Tenors Scott Hamilton and Toni with music by Couperin and Sainte- Verdi’s four-act opera based on Solà with Gerard Nieto (piano) and Colombe. Palau de la Música Classical Shakespeare’s great play. The Ignasi González (double bass). Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). tragedy of Othello and Desdemona Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. Palau 100 – Ivan Martín is set against the harsh backdrop (L3). Jan 22-23. 8pm, 10pm. €18 €30-€40. Pianist Ivan Martín performs works of war in Deutsche Oper Berlin’s DQZQHƁEG a QPNKPGKPCFXCPEG  by Scarlatti, Granados and others. dramatic production. www.masimas.com/jamboree Spanish guitar maestros Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). See Mon 4. Santa Maria del Pi de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Jan 21, 26, 27, 29, 31. 8pm (except Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20. Jan 31, 6pm). €10-€299. Opera 9.30pm. www.liceubarcelona.cat. Viñas Singing Contest Final Jazz – Reggae Concert Flamenco – Latin Friday 22 The 53rd Francisco Viñas The Gramophone All Stars Band International Singing Contest brings 17th Banc Sabadell Mil·lenni The home-grown jazz and reggae Blues the world’s best young singers of Festival – Niña Pastori big band perform new numbers opera, oratorio and Lieder to Presenting her latest album, from their album Jazzmaica. Blues at the MEAM Barcelona. This year’s winners Ámame Como Soy, Pastori takes Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Blues and swing at the MEAM. perform with the Liceu orchestra in her Ƃamenco roots with her on a . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). the Ɓnal concert. journey through the rich heritage of €12 (online in advance). www. Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, Latin music. L’Auditori (Lepant, masimas.com/jamboree 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 3pm. €10-€18. 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). 9pm. €28-€54. Classical Thursday 21 Saturday 23 OBC Concert – Mahler’s Fifth Jazz – Funk – Hip hop Singer-songwriters Works by Granados, Liszt as well as Classical Mahler. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: WTF Jam Session 17th Banc Sabadell Mil·lenni Glòries & Marina (L1), Monumental Beethoven and Jeremy Irons See Mon 4. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, Festival – Nacho Vegas (L2). Jan 22, 8.30pm. Jan 23, 7pm. Beethoven’s music, interwoven 17). M: Liceu (L3). Folk, rock and protest songs from Jan 24, 11am. €10-€56. with a text adapted from Goethe’s

48 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com The Arts play Egmont, as recited by actor Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Jeremy Irons. Gran Teatre del Liceu de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Wednesday 27 Every Friday. 6pm. €14. meam.es (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). (L1, L4). 7pm. €12-€15. 8pm. €10-€122. Classical Cologne Radio Orchestra Pop The art of the Spanish The Cologne Radio Orchestra Quartet Quiroga & Javier guitar: music and wine performs Gershwin and Bernstein Perianes Bryan Adams Guitar expert Joan Benejam with pianist and conductor Wayne Pianist Javier Perianes joins the Husky-voiced Canadian chart- performs Fandango.Santa Anna Marshall. Quiroga quartet to play works by topper rocks on his Get Up tour. Church (Santa Anna, 29). M: L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Marina Turina, Granados and Schumann. Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). 9pm. €20. (L1), Monumental (L2). 8.30pm. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau M: Espanya (L1,L3; FGC). 9.30pm. tickets.visitbarcelona.com. €20-€98. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €25. Symphonics at the Palau Saturday 30 Music by Beethoven, Schubert and Tuesday 26 Spanish guitar maestros Vaughan Williams. Palau de la Concert by Dúo del Mar. Classical Música Catalana (Palau de la Classical Santa Maria del Pi Church (Pl. del Pi, Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, 7). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €23. tickets. Asier Polo L4). 7pm. €18-€68. Barcelona Guitar Orchestra visitbarcelona.com Virtuoso cellist Asier Polo performs Thirty guitars led by Sergi Vicente, Elgar’s cello concerto and with violinist Ala Voronkova and the Schumann’s Symphony No.3, Sunday 24 Spanish ballet group Retahila. Thursday 28 ‘Renana,’ with the Orquestra Camera Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Musicae, conducted by Tomás Grau. Classical de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Classical Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€49. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Sir John Eliot Gardiner / Bizet’s Carmen (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€25. Mozart’s Great Mass in C Minor The art of the Spanish A staged concert version (two See page 43. L’Auditori (Lepant, guitar: music and wine hours with intermission) of one of 150). M: Glòries & Marina (L1), See Sat 23. the world’s most popular operas. Sunday 31 Monumental (L2). 7pm. €10-€88. Santa Anna Church (Santa Anna, Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3;FGC). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Jazz – Blues Musical hits from the films (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €22-€52. See Jan 9. Palau de la Música Sax-O-Rama Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Jazz Popular 19th-century work by M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. Jazz –Blues Gaetano Donizetti. Jamboritalia – Enrico Rava New Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu Music at Sant Pau modernista Quartet Sax-O-Rama . ROROa DQZQHƁEG  monument Italian jazz legend, trumpeter Two tenors duke it out as Sax €18 (online in advance). www. Grup Teatre Intrumental and Enrico Rava, visits Jamboree with Gordon goes head to head with masimas.com/jamboree. Emmanuel Balsa. his new quartet. Dani Nel·lo, with Lluís Coloma on Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu piano. Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau–Dos (L3). Jan 26-27. 8pm, 10pm. €35 Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €15 (box Indie rock de Maig (L5). 7pm. €10. Tickets: DQZQHƁEG a QPNKPGKPCFXCPEG  QHƁEG a QPNKPGKPCFXCPEG  www.santpaubarcelona.org and www.masimas.com/jamboree www.masimas.com/jamboree Foals VKEMGVQHƁEGUCVVJGXGPWG The UK indie group led by Yannis Phiippakis tour 2015’s What Went Opera Friday 29 Down. Razzmatazz (Pamplona, 88). Opera M: Marina (L1), Bogatell (L4). 9pm. Otello by Giuseppe Verdi Classical €28. www.livenation.es Viñas Singing Contest Final See Thu 21. Concert (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Iberia Classic See 22 Jan. 8pm. Masterpieces of 20th-century Classical Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, Spanish music from opera and 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 6pm. zarazuela to Spanish classical Palau 100 – Royal €12-€30. Pop ballet. Concertgebouw Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Semyon Bychkov conducts 17th Banc Sabadell Festival del de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Amsterdam’s Ɓnest in a Monday 25 Mil·lenni – Los Secretos (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€49. performance of Strauss’s Ein Pop in the key of symphony from Heldenleben and Beethoven’s Classical this Spanish group famous in ‘La Piano Concerto No.5 with soloist Movida’ in 1980s Madrid. Blues Jean-Yves Thibaudet. Palau de la Municipal Band of Barcelona L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Música Catalana (Palau de la Works by Borgonyá, Serra and Falla & Marina (L1), Monumental (L2). Blues at the MEAM Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, performed by the city’s band. 9pm. €24-€48. Blues and swing at the MEAM. L4). 8.30pm. €30-€175.

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preparatory drawings for the species from Brazilian jungle. by other artists from his Palace of Versailles. Year 2100 experiment Until Jan collection. Exhibitions 24. Life in the year 2100 and the Can Framis. Fundació Vila 22nd century. Fundació Catalunya–La Pedrera Casas Accelerating science Until Jan (Pg. de Gràcia, 92). M: Diagonal (L3, Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries 10. An exhibition focused on the L5). T. 902 202 138. Mon-Sun (Pl. Pons i Clerch, 2). M: Arc de (L1) & Poblenou, Llacuna (L4). T. 93 work of CERN. 10am-8pm. Jan 1 11am-6.30pm. Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Talking about drugs No end Jan 2-3 9am-8.30pm. From Jan 4 256 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon, date. Programme that aims to 9am-6.30pm. Closed Jan 11-17. €3. Closed Sun and public holidays. public holidays, Jan 1-3. €5. prevent the consumption of drugs. Reduced €2. Reduced: €2. FREE Pérez de Rosas Until May El Born Centre Cultural Modernisme. Art, workshops, 21. A visual history of Barcelona A collection for a journey Jan 18- (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I industries Until Feb 7. The work of from 1931 to 1954. Apr 3. 1960 project that saw & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 numerous artisans in the architects and artists produce 51. Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. Sun and modernisme movement. Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de one-off works to Ɓnance a round- public holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Barcelona the-world trip for students. Mon (except public holidays), Jan Fundació Joan Miró (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & The Art of Collecting Jan 25-Apr 3. 1. €6. Reduced: €4.20. Under-16s (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 Ernesto Ventós has spent around free. Sun 3pm-8pm free. First Sun (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue- 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am- 40 years seeking out works of art every month free, 10am-8pm. Sat 10am-7pm; Thu 10am-9pm; 1pm. Closed Sun, public holidays. that suggest olfactory memories. Sun & public holidays 10am- FREE Barcelona 1700. From 2.30pm. Closed Mon (except public FREE The Art of Silk in Barcelona Castell de Montjuïc stones to people (Sala Villarroel) holidays), Jan 1. €11. Temp Until Apr 30. Exploring 500 years (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya 18th-century Barcelona was exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. of the city’s silk guilds. (L1,L3;FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Mon- dynamic and forward-looking, but Sun, public holidays 10am-6pm. marked by war. Permanent Permanent exhibition Most Biblioteca Pública Arús Closed Jan 1. €5. Reduced: €3. exhibition. important public collection of (Pg. Sant Joan, 26). M: Arc de FREE Until it is done! (Sala works by the Catalan artist. Triomf (L1). T. 93 256 59 50. Mon, Montjuïc, the construction of a Casanova) Examining 14-month Miró and the Object Until Jan 17. Wed, Fri 9.30am-3pm. Tue, Thu castle Permanent exhibition. siege of Barcelona that ended Exploration of how Catalan artist 4pm-9pm. Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles with capitulation to the Bourbons utilised items that he found. Berga. Permanent exhibition. on Sep 11, 1714. Temporary Nadala: Art de foc, art de badoc FREE The legacy of Frederick S. Watching the city Until Feb 28. exhibition. Until Jan 10. Each year the Pearson Until Jan 15. Marking 100 Exhibition with views of Barcelona. Fundació Joan Miró commissions years since the death of the US Espai VolART-Fundació Vila a special festive installation. engineer and entrepreneur. CCCB Casas Photography in the lobby Until Jan (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona 17. A series of images by Aleydis Blue Project Foundation L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri Rispa that forms a cosmology of (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) public holidays 11am-8pm. Jan 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, planets and stars. & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. 5,6 11am-3pm. Closed Mon 5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. (except public holidays), Jan 1. Closed Mon, Jan 1-3. €1. Fundación MAPFRE €3. One exhibition €6. Two exhibitions Casa Garriga i Nogués (Diputació, €8. Wed (except public holidays) Architecture, typography and 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, Joachim Koester. Making bodies and for pensioners and students: other volumes Jan 21-Apr 24. L4). T. 93 401 26 03. Mon 2pm- with machines Until Jan 10. Work €4. Under-16s & unemployed: Work by Catalan artist Ramon 8pm; Tue-Sat 10am-8pm. Sun and by conceptual Danish artist who free. Enrich, who trained in the US with public holidays 11am-7pm. uses video and photography. David Hockney. Michelangelo Pistoletto Until Mar +Humans Until Apr 10. See page Constructed landscapes Jan 21- FREE The Triumph of Colour Until 28. The Italian painter is a key 28. Apr 24. 20th-century paintings by Jan 10. Impressive exhibition of Ɓgure of Arte Povera. Jaume Mercadé (1889-1967) works by the likes of Van Gogh, CosmoCaixa who used a variety of genres to Gaugin and Seurat. CaixaForum (Isaac Newton, 26). FGC: Av. portray his native Tarragona. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). Tibidabo. T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun Fundació Suñol M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 476 and public holidays 10am-8pm. Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Jan 5 Jan 5 10am-6pm. Closed Mon (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. 10am-6pm. Closed Jan 1, 6. Adults (except public holidays), Jan 1, 6. (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat €4. Under-16s free. €4 (permanent and temporary Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon, Jan 1, 4pm-8pm. Closed Sun and public exhibitions). Under-16s free. 6. €7. Students and pensioners: holidays. €4. Reduced: €2. Animals and pharaohs Until Jan €5.60. 10. Looking at the role of the 3D Planetarium No end date. Italia. The Six Senses Until Jan animal kingdom in Ancient Egypt. Installation lets you explore Tàpies: An Artist’s Collection 9. Re-examination of late 20th- Drawing Versailles Until Feb 14. space. Until Jan 10. Works the late century Italian works held by the Works by French painter Charles Flooded forest No end date. Catalan artist created between Suñol Foundation. Le Brun, which include a series of Living exhibit with over 100 the ’40s and the ’80s, and pieces Rosa Amorós. Debris and

50 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com The Arts urges Until Jan 23. Works from the (L2). T. 93 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, (Spanish), 12.30pm (Catalan). ’90s to the present day. 11am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-9pm; 4pm-7pm; Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, Closed public holidays. €3.40. FREE ACTE 33 Until Jan 23. ‘The Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. public holidays 10am-2pm. Jan 6 MUHBA Refugi 307 Underground Artist and the Stone’ by Matteo Closed Tues (except public 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except passageways highlight the city’s Guidi and Giuliana Racco. holidays), Jan 1. €10. Reduced: €8. public holidays), Jan 1. €8. suffering during the Civil War. Reduced: €6. Gaudí Exhibition Center Species of space Until Jan 31. MUHBA Santa Caterina Museu Diocesà (Pla de la Seu, 7). Examining the spaces that deƁne Permanent exhibition The (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Jaume I (L4). M: Jaume I (L4) and Liceu (L3). T. 93 us by the way we use them. world of creativity and inventing. T. 93 256 21 22. Mon, Wed, Sat 268 75 82. Mon-Sun 10am-6pm. Sergi Aguilar. Reverse/ 7.30am-3.30pm; Tue, Thu-Fri €15. Reduced: €12. More info: Obverse Until Jan 31. MUHBA Oliva Artés 7.30am-8.30pm. Closed Sun, www.gaudiexhibitioncenter.com Retrospective of work by (Espronceda, 142-146, Parc public holidays. Barcelona sculptor. Central del Poblenou). M: Poblenou Walking with Gaudí Interactive Miserachs Barcelona Until Mar (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. Mon-Fri visits FREE Permanent exhibition. exhibition which looks at the life 27. Work of Catalan photographer with prior booking only; Wed 10am- Remains among the foundations and work of Antoni Gaudí. who documented 20th-century 2pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 4pm- of the Santa Caterina market. Barcelona. 6pm. Closed Jan 1. Hash Marihuana & Hemp Carlos Bunga. Capella Until Feb MUHBA Turó de la Rovira Museum 7. Show built around the chapel FREE Interogate Barcelona, (Marià Labèrnia s/n). Bus: (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). where it’s being staged. from industrialisation to the 119,V17. T. 93 256 21 22. T. 93 319 75 39. Daily 10am- 21st century Permanent )GPGTCNCEEGUUJCUPQƁZGF 10pm. Public holidays 2pm-10pm. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art exhibition looking at recent city timetable. Museum areas: Sat, €9. Under-13s free. Modern history. Sun 10am-3pm. Closed Jan 1. (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Permanent exhibition Past, T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun 10am- MUHBA Park Güell Find more Permanent exhibition present and future of cannabis. 8pm. Closed Jan 1. €9. Reduced: (Olot, s/n. Casa de la expos on our Barcelona to the limit. FREE Grow on Until May 1 The €7. Guarda). website 30th anniversary of Sensi Seeds, M: Vallcarca (L3). T. 93 timeout.com/ Museu Blau the world’s main supplier of 21st-century art Permanent 256 21 22. Daily barcelona (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, cannabis seeds. exhibition of almost 300 paintings 8.45am-6.45pm. The 4-5, Parc del Fòrum). M: El and 80 sculptures. Casa de la Guarda Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 Jardí Botànic de Barcelona Winners and short-listed works museum is part of the 256 60 02. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm. Sat (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: from 8the Painting and Figurative ‘monumental area’ of the park, 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 256 Sculpture competition Until Jan and visits are covered by general 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except 41 60. Permanent display: Daily 11. Top entries from artistic conditions for admission. Access public holidays). €6. Reduced: 10am-5pm. Closed Jan 1. €3.50. contest. with ticket only. www.parkguell.cat €2.70. Museum & Botanical Reduced: €1.70. Temporary Gardens: €7. Reduced: €3.50. exhibition: Tue-Sun, Mondays that Museu Etnològic Permanent exhibition The Casa Temp exhibition: €5. Reduced: are public holidays 10.30am- (Pg. de Santa Madrona, 16-22). M: de la Guarda, Park Güell and €3.50. 4.30pm. €5. Reduced: €2.50. Poble Sec (L3), Espanya modernista Barcelona. (L1,L3:FGC). T. 93 424 68 07. Tue- FREE Drawings by Luis Feo Until Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public MUHBA Plaça del Rei Jan 31. Artwork inspired by global Med climate zones. holidays 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 scientiƁc illustrations. Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s (except public holidays), Jan 1. Free 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Nutrition, vital instinct Until May cabinet of curiosities Until Apr. entry until Jan 6. From Jan 7, Sun 10am-8pm. Jan 6 10am-2pm. 29. Fundamental concepts of Reconstruction of one of BCN’s combined ticket for Museu Closed Mon, Jan 1. €7. Reduced: food and nutrition. earliest natural history Etnològic + Museu de les Cultures €5. Under-16s free. Free Sun from collections. del Món: €5. Reduced: €3.50. 3pm. Museu de Badalona (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1. La Virreina Centre de la Imatge Contemporary art Permanent Permanent exhibition Tour of the Badalona). M: Badalona-Pompeu (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. exhibition that aims to interpret Roman colony of Barcino. Fabra (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue- 93 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public society by comparing different Deported Barcelona Until Feb 7. Sat 10am-2pm, 5pm-8pm; Sun & hols, noon-8pm. Closed Jan 1. places and times. Video installation remembering public holidays 10am-2pm. Land of potters Until Jun. Looking Barcelona residents deported Temporary exhibition: Tue-Sat FREE Catalonia in Venice. at trades associated with water, from the city to Nazi camps. 5pm-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Singularity Until Feb 14. Exhibition such as potters and diviners. Carolingian coins of Louis the Mon, Jan 1, 6. €6. Reduced: curated by Chus Martínez to The sacred, the profane and the Pious No end date. A display of €4.80. represent Catalan art at the 56th festive Until Jun. Exploring the currency that dates from the Venice Biennale. origins and prevalence of ninth century. Permanent exhibition Remains of religious expression in Catalonia. the Roman city of Baetulo. MACBA. Museu d’Art MUHBA Refugi 307 FREE Toys and games in ancient Contemporani MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents (Nou de la Rambla, 169). times Until Feb 28. Playtime items (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: de Barcelona M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 on loan from different Catalan Universitat (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 22. Sun: 10.30am (Eng), 11.30am archaeological museums.

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Museu de Montserrat Museu de la Xocolata Some parts of tour are closed on Museu Marítim de Barcelona (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de match day. €23. Children: €17. (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Montserrat). FGC: Monistrol de Sant Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf Under 6s & FCB members, free. Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Montserrat + zip train. Mon-Sun (L1). T. 93 268 78 78. Mon-Sat Camp Nou Experience Discover Daily 10am-8pm. Closed Jan 1, 6. 10am-5.45pm. €7. Reduced: €6. 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-3pm. 100 years of the club’s history and Temp exhibitions & visit to Santa Temporary exhibition: €3.30. Closed Jan 1, 6. €5. Group entry: visit the stadium. Eulàlia schooner: €7. Reduced: €4 each. €3.50. Permanent exhibition Permanent Exhibition Paintings Permanent exhibition The story Museu del Mamut closed for remodelling. by El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, of chocolate from its origins. (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and 93 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am- Ona-Ola-Wave. Surf in Catalonia Picasso. Museu de les Cultures del Món 8pm. Closed Jan 1. €7.50. Until Jan 17. How surƁng has Ramón Calsina, Remembrance (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). Reduced: €5. Children (6-15): grown in popularity. Until Jan 17. Retrospective of T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am- €3.50. Nights of Ink Until Jan 10. Art work by the late Catalan artist. 7pm; Sun and public holidays exploring tradition of Ɓshing. Roger Ballen, Fate Until Jan 6. 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except Permanent exhibition Photos from New York artist. public holidays), Jan 1. €5. See remains of woolly mammoths Museu Nacional d’Art de Reduced: €3.50. and other Ice Age animals. Catalunya MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, (La Rambla, 96). M: Liceu (L3). T. Permanent exhibition Art, Museu del Modernisme Català L3;FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat 93 318 98 65. Daily 10am- books and objects gathered in (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia 10am-6pm; Sun, public hols 10am- midnight. Jan 1 noon-midnight. Asia, Africa, Oceania and the (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Tue- 3pm. Closed Mon (except public Adults €9. Reduced: €8. Americas. Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun, public hols hols), Jan 1. €12. Roof terrace €2. Writings. Symbols, words, 10.30am-2pm. Closed Mon, Jan 1, Free entry Sat afternoon from 3pm. Permanent exhibition History powers Until Jan 31. Tracing the 6. €10. Reduced: €7. mmbcn.cat Temp shows: ask at museum. of eroticism and its portrayal in development of writing. art. Permanent exhibition Works by Permanent exhibition World’s Museu del Disseny de 42 key artists of the Catalan most important collection of Museu de la Moto de Barcelona modernisme movement. Romanesque art and Catalan Barcelona 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2N modernisme. (C/ de la Palla, 10). M: Jaume I de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). Museu Egipci de Xavi Gosé Until Mar 20. (L4). M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Barcelona Marking the centenary of the T. 93 318 65 84. Mon-Sat Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon, (València, 284). M: Passeig de death of this acclaimed Catalan 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun, public Jan 1. €6. Reduced: €4. Temp Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 artist. holidays: check with museum. exhibition: €4.40. Reduced: €3. 88. Until Jan 5 Mon-Sat 10am- Undamaged. Until Feb 28. Still Closed Jan 1. €7. Reduced: €5. Combined: €8. Reduced: €5.50. 8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. From Jan 7 lifes from Spain’s Golden Age. Under-8s free. (TGG5WPROROCPFƁTUV5WPQH Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sat Stories in metal. Until Jan 17, the month. 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. 2016. European medals. Motorbike. Society, industry, Closed Jan 1, 6. €11. Reduced: €8. competition Permanent From the world to the museum. Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport exhibition looking at the history of Product design, cultural heritage Permanent exhibition Joan Antoni Samaranch the motorbike from its beginnings Permanent exhibition. Daily Hundreds of exhibits provide a (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: as an elite status symbol to the objects seen from a museum glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). T. 93 292 today. perspective. Tutankhamun. Story of a 53 79. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, Bultaco, a legendary Dressing the body. Silhouettes discovery No end date. 1922 public holidays 10am-2.30pm. motorbike Until Feb. Tribute to and fashion (1550-2014) archaeological expedition that Closed Mon (except public one of Spain’s great motorbike Permanent exhibition. How women uncovered the pharaoh’s tomb. holidays), Jan 1. €5.10. Students: manufacturers. change their shape with clothes. €3.20. Under-7s and over-65s: Extraordinary! Decorative and Museu Frederic Marès free. Museu de la Música applied arts collections (3rd-20th (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries century) Permanent exhibition. T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am- Permanent exhibition Explore & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Art from across the centuries. 7pm; Sun, public hols 11am-8pm. in-depth the worlds of sport and Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am- Graphic design: from trade to Closed Mon (except public the Olympic Games. 8pm. Closed Mon, Jan 1. €5. profession Permanent exhibition. holidays), Jan 1. €4.20. Reduced: International Biennial of Sports Reduced: €3.50. Free admission Tracing the professionalisation of €2.40. Photography: Fotosport 2014 Sun from 3pm and for under-16s. graphic design. Until Feb 14. Renowned sports Distinction Until Mar 27. Show of Permanent exhibition Valuable photography event. Permanent exhibition Take a 20th-century fashion photography. artworks and objects. trip through musical history. Maillol and Greece Until Jan 31. Museu Picasso Tridimensional music Until Jan Museu del FC Barcelona How a trip to Greece inspired (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). 17. Sculptural homage to the (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 and sculptor Aristides Maillol. T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am- guitar. 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 Nunc Stans Until Feb 21. Dialogue 7pm; Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Jan Miquel Llobet Until Jan 17. 00. Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun, between contemporary artworks 1. €14 (combined ticket for Remembering one of Catalonia’s public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Jan from the “La Caixa” Collection and museum + temporary exhibition). most prestigious guitarists. 2-5 10am-7.30pm. Closed Jan 1. the Museu Frederic Marès. Collection only: €11. Temp

52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com The Arts exhibition: €4.50. GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU de ruidos y sonidos Jan 12-31. & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. €29-€46. Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available Sat, Sun noon. €12 adults; €9 Dagoll Dagomm’s popular musical Permanent exhibition More than via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, children. Family show, for 6-12 about corsairs and captives. In 3,800 works from different 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU year olds. In Spanish. La Llista Catalan. periods in Picasso’s life. Jan 21-Feb 14. Tue-Fri 9pm; Sat Guerra Jan 20-31. Wed-Fri 9pm; Picasso and Reventós Until Jan Cabaret Experience Until Apr 2. 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm. €15-€29. Sat 6.30pm & 9pm; Sun 6.30pm. 10 The relationship between Thu 9.30pm; Fri, Sat 6.30pm, Monologue by Canadian Jennifer €23-€30. Wed €20. A Picasso and the Reventós family. 9.30pm. From €24. Cabaret, Tremblay. In Catalan. contemporary look at the realities Picasso’s passion for El Greco circus, song and dance. La hora of war. In Catalan. Until Jan 17. This exhibition boira Jan 2, 8, 9. 11.59pm. From Teatre Nacional de Catalunya compares work by the two €14. Humour, cabaret and rock (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1), artists. from local comedian Albert Boira. Monumental (L2). T. 93 306 57 6KEMGVQHƁEG9GF(TKRO Dance Palau Robert Teatre Gaudí Barcelona 7pm; Sat 3pm-8.30pm; Sun 3pm- (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). 5pm. tnc.cat (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5). T. 93 Palau Sant Jordi 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays 6+EMGVQHƁEGQRGPU El público Until Jan 3. Wed-Sat (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya 10am-2.30pm. an hour before function starts. 8pm; Sun 6pm. €14-€28. Classic (L1,L3;FGC). www.teatregaudibarcelona.com. play from Federico Gárcia Lorca. In FREE Catalan actresses of the Spanish. Maria Rosa Jan 20-Feb Cirque du Soleil: Varekai Jan 1 20th century Until Mar 27. Local Matar al Rey Jan 13-24. Wed- 28. Check website for timetable. 6pm. Jan 2, 9 6pm, 9.30pm. Jan stars of the stage. Sun 8pm. €20. Medieval thriller Vintage play by Àngel Guimerà. In 3, 10 4.30pm. Jan 4 8pm. Jan 5 FREE Baltasar Porcel. Mallorca, set in 15th-century castle. In Catalan. 12.30pm. Jan 7-8 9.30pm. €29- Barcelona, the world Until Feb Spanish. €76. Latest production from 28. Remembering the Mallorcan Sugar (Con faldas y a lo loco) Teatre Poliorama popular contemporary circus writer and journalist. Until Jan 31. Tue-Wed, Fri (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya group, based on the myth of 9.30pm; Sat 6.30pm, 9.30pm; (L1, L3) T. 93 317 75 99. TIcket Icarus. Pis-museu Casa Bloc Sun 6.30pm. €24. Musical in QHƁEG6WG(TKHTQORO5CV5WP (Pg. Torras i Bages, 91). M: Torras i Catalan. Trencanous Until Jan from 4pm until start of Mercat de les Flors Bages (L1). Guided tours in 31. Sun noon. Family performance. teatrepoliorama. (Lleida, 59). M: Espanya (L1,L3; Catalan, Spanish and English: performance of The Nutcracker. com. FGC), Poble Sec (L3). T. 93 426 18 reservations must be made in In Catalan. 6KEMGVQHƁEGQRGPUCPJQWT advance before Thu. Guided BITS. Tricicle Until Jan 31. Wed-Fri before function starts. tours: Sat 11am. Information line: Teatre Lliure (Gràcia) 9pm; Sat, Sun 6.30pm. €15-€25. YYYOGTECVƂQTUECV Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Thu 3pm- (Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3). Tricicle are a popular Catalan 5.30pm. Individual visits: €3. Info: T. 93 289 27 70. teatrelliure.com comedy trio whose stage work is Cosas que se olvidan fácilmente tel. 93 256 68 01 or mainly physical comedy and Jan 2-4, 8-10. 6pm, 9pm. Jan 4 museudeldisseny.cat. Rhum Until Jan 10. Tue-Fri mime. 7pm. €15. Exploration of memory 8.30pm; Sat 5.30pm, 9pm; Sun Somriures i llagrimes Until Jan 3. by actor-artist Xavier Bobés. La Casa Bloc A symbol of rational 6pm. €12-€23. Circus show in Sun noon. €10, €12. Translated máquina de la soledad Jan 2-3 social housing in Barcelona. Catalan and Spanish. El minuto version of The Sound of Music. In 6pm, 8.30pm; Jan 8 9.30pm; Jan del payaso Jan 14-24. Tue-Fri Catalan. Rínxols d’or Jan 10, 17, 9-10 7.30pm. €15. Theatre of Reial Monestir de Santa Maria 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15- 24, 31. 12.30pm. Family theatre (3 objects. Impulso Jan 4. 8.30pm. de Pedralbes €29. Monologue by a clown years and up). In Catalan. €12. Flamenco dancer Rocío (Baixada del Monestir, 9). FGC: waiting to perform. In Spanish. Molina and artist collective Reina Elisenda. T. 93 256 34 34. Please, continue (Hamlet) Jan Teatre Tívoli CaboSanRoque join forces. Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm; Sat, Sun 29-30. 8.30pm. €12-€23. Play (Casp, 8-10). M: Catalunya (L1, L3), Nàufrags Jan 8-10 Fri 8pm; Sat, 10am-5pm. Public holidays that imagines Hamlet in the Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4). T. Sun 6pm. €18. Visual theatre 10am-2pm. Closed Mon (except dock. In Catalan. 902 888 788. www.mammamia.es featuring puppets, objects, voice public hols), Jan 1. €4.40. and music. Fractus V Jan 11-17. Reduced: €3.10. Teatre Lliure (Sala Fabià Mamma Mía Until Feb 28. Tue-Thu 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €25. Five Puigserver – Montjuïc) 8pm; Fri, Sat 5.30pm, 9.30pm; Sun performers from different dance Permanent exhibitions Including (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46/Pl. 6pm. €25-€69.90. Abba’s mega- backgrounds take to the stage. murals, plants and other Margarida Xirgu, 1). M: Espanya popular musical. In Spanish. Kokoro Jan 22-24. 8.30pm; Sun treasures. (L1, L3;FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). T. 6pm. €12. Four dancers portray 93 289 27 70. www.teatrelliure. Teatre Victòria four people in search of their com (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel identity. Tarannà Jan 23 6pm; Jan (L2, L3). T. 93 329 91 89. 24 noon. €12 adults. €8 children. Theatre El rei Lear Until Jan 31. Tue-Fri VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEG Solo work around concept of 8.30pm; Sat 7pm; Sun 6pm. €15- Wed-Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from transformation. Political Mother €29. Shakespeare tragedy. In 4pm until performance starts. o Projecte Comunitari Jan 31 El Molino Catalan; Sat with surtitles in 6pm. €10. 80 amateur dancers (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, English and Spanish. Biblioteca Mar i Cel Until Jan 10. Thu and musicians from the Girona L3). T. 93 205 51 11. www. de cuerdas y nudos/Biblioteca 8.30pm; Fri 9.30pm; Sat 5.30pm region perform together.

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 53 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Food & Drink @RicardMartn MARIA DIAS Quality for the masses This macro-restaurant halfway down La Rambla plays in the same big league as El Nacional – with gigantic premises and attention to detail. By Laura Conde

Ultramarinos is not a small, disappearing, is simply changing, covering the walls, a DJ at the Lombardero’s wife, is serviceable, charismatic restaurant where an often into mini-markets. The decks every day, and a cocktail bar with strong Mediterranean roots erudite chef re-reads Bauman traditional grocers have always for which expert bartender Cristina and international touches, as when he’s not in the kitchen, and been a favourite of the owner of has designed a menu with 13 befits a restaurant located at the who revives his great-grandma’s Ultramarinos. ‘There are two cocktails inspired by a journey heart of everything: pizzas, recipes when he’s at the stove, things I’ve always liked: strolling around the world. The food at hamburgers, tartares and adapting them with precision and down La Rambla, and the old-style Ultramarinos, supervised salads share menu space with sensitivity to his own philosophy. ultramarinos,’ says José by Kate Preston, meatballs with shiitake Ultramarinos is a macro-space with Lombardero, head of the mushrooms or noteworthy spectacular interior design (the Lombardo Group, the driving force ceviches, as well as other work of designer-of-the-moment behind the project, and an nicely devised dishes, including Lázaro Rosa Violán), recently unquestionably self-made crunchy aubergines with opened in the middle of La Rambla, man who comes from a family coriander and citrus fruits. and it’s playing in a different of Galician farmers. ‘In fact, I Don’t confuse this place with league, up against places like El didn’t go looking for this the other Ultramarinos, a tiny Nacional, another of the mega- place, but when it was cocktail bar specialising in G&Ts projects that, whether we like it or offered to me, I felt it on C/Sant Pau. Just remember not, also help shape the culinary had been looking for the two establishments represent character of a multifaceted city. me,’ he says. the two faces, condemned to The name comes from small, That was how this coexist, of the same Barcelona. specialist groceries where people immense, industrial-scale – once shopped for imported goods and yet welcoming – space ULTRAMARINOS (ultramarino means ‘overseas’) – a came into being, with Rambla, 31 (Raval). kind of business that, rather than wooden furniture, paintings T.93 270 2381. P: €25-€30.

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Mendizábal

BAR OF THE MONTH IRENE FERNÁNDEZ  just next to the legendary bar, is first-class. Simply decorated, Junta de Comerç, 2 (Raval). with lots of stone and brick on Mon-Sat 10am-1am. display, the room has a clear Scandinavian influence, but Until recently, Mendizábal was hasn’t renounced any Raval pride. one of the most unclassiƁable The wooden tables and chairs spots in the Raval. It was a bar along with the extremely clean that wasn’t a bar. To clarify – it design invite you to enjoy a beer, was a bar that didn’t have any cocktail or top-notch sandwich premises. ‘The Mendi’ was a without having to deal with the hole in the wall at the corner hordes of night creatures who where Junta de Comerç populate the neighbourhood. meets Hospital. Its ‘interior’ was You can drink fresh juices, wine, actually exterior, speciƁcally the gin and tonics, various classic tiny Plaça del Canonge Colom, a cocktails – the list is short but square with no view to speak of, reliable – or the magnificent where the Mendi set up its beers of different sizes, with the chairs and tables. The bar’s half-litre option the trophy for true uniqueness and position on one cervesa champions. To eat, of the neighbourhood’s key tapas, salads and sandwiches thoroughfares converted it into each created with the signature a Ƃagship of this multi-ethnic in-house quality are all dead certs area. But the time Ɓnally came for in a place that’s changed without the Mendi to grow and answer the changing. The Mendi isn’t the prayers of its many fans who no Mendi anymore, it’s much more longer wanted their extremities to than that now – a rescue vessel freeze when having a drink there for Raval explorers in need of in winter. shelter. –Òscar Broc So now it has a real interior space. And it’s amazing. The new FOOTNOTE The Mendi is one of covered part of Mendizábal, open the Raval’s main landmarks.

WHAT ELSE YOU NEED TO KNOW

SANDWICHES TO DIE FOR UNBEATABLE TERRACE Mendizábal makes excellent Even though the Mendi now has an sandwiches for all tastes. And now the actual interior, it’s kept the popular range is even bigger. Tuna tataki, cod, terrace on Plaça del Canonge Colom. If and one of squid and another of free- you’re in the neighbourhood, be sure to range chicken that are both amazing. make a beeline for it.

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MUSEUM RESTAURANTS L’Indret Dine out among works of art

MONTJUÏC CAIXAFORUM Set menu that’s good value for money, and excellent local dishes such as oxtail (cua de bou). Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6.

MONTJUÏC THE EIXAMPLE DRET FUNDACIÓ MIRÓ C3BAR AT LA PEDRERA Worth a visit to enjoy THE CCCB Eugeni de Diego, a great location, (MONTALEGRE, 5) HAS former head chef at Med-inspired food with AN ORGANIC SET LUNCH El Bulli, has brought Asian touches and MENU AND A GREAT excellent cooking to peaceful surrounds. TERRACE Gaudí’s showpiece. IRENE FERNÁNDEZ Parc de Montjuïc, s/n. Pg. de Gràcia, 92.  dishes such as the salt-cured BARCELONETA salmon ‘nest’, the potato stuffed Ganduxer, 31 (Sarrià) with its own creamy purée, and the RESTAURANT 1881 T. 93 201 69 31. P: €40. king crab stew. A shared Ɓrst Basque tapas firm Sagardi runs the course from the set menu, a Catalonia History Museum’s penthouse We lament the passing of iconic carpaccio of ceps with roasted pine eatery. Top views, top food. Pla de Palau, 3. Barcelona eating places with ever- nuts and excellent olive oil, made increasing frequency. But today we an excellent starter. can celebrate the revival of On the set lunch menu, at €19, gourmet delicatessen Semon, and the highlight was a superb fabada Open until the early hours of its sister space L’Indret, a asturiana (white bean stew). The restaurant where you can try house pastries are magniƁcent. everything you see on display – and The deli has revived products that more. Brothers Pedro and Paulino were missing from its shelves until Robles, who have worked in the now, such as the goose foie gras, establishment for 20 and 40 years, specially prepared and labelled for respectively, have taken it over with the Robles’s shop. There’s been a the intention of maintaining the huge improvement in the wine business model that has worked menu, and the cavas, champagnes since it Ɓrst opened, while also and liqueurs are still excellent ‘raising the quality, whether in What a pleasure to return to a terms of service or products,’ as unique Barcelona restaurant, and younger brother, Pedro, explains. enjoy great food, top service and a ‘We want to make the restaurant friendly atmosphere. more accessible, both for our –Marcelo Aparicio This bar-restaurant in Poble-sec is served with care – such as the regular clientele and for the new perfect for a drink or bite to eat at patatas bravas served in a paper crowd who’ve joined us since we almost any time. Tast Gastro Bar cone, a steak cut up for sharing, a entered this new phase,’ adds THE BILL offers non-stop service from 8am huge bomba (a meat- and potato- Paulino, who works behind the during the week, and from 9am at filled ball rolled in breadcrumbs scenes to ensure everything (For 2) weekends, until midnight or and deep-fried) and marinated runs smoothly. 1 set lunch menu ...... €19.00 2.30am, depending on the day. pork cubes. There are also lighter They have kept and improved 1 salmon ‘nest’ ...... €18.00 Thanks to these extensive alternatives, such as tuna tartare many of the dishes that made the 1 crab stew ...... €28.00 opening hours you’ll find an with roasted tomato and previous incarnation of L’Indret 1 chocolate Prelude ...... €5.00 equally extensive selection of parmesan, and an array of hot famous. A youthful team in the 2 glasses of wine ...... €6.00 dining options – you can choose coques (pron. KO-kas), a Catalan kitchen are also introducing some 1 coffee ...... €1.30 between breakfast, a vermouth speciality of bread topped with star dishes from La Despensa de aperitif, lunch (either à la carte or ingredients such as cheese and Laforja, which Pedro has run for TOTAL (inc VAT) ...... €77.30 from their set menu), afternoon vegetables, or smoked salmon. years. One of these, the red snacks, dinner and/or cocktails. scorpionƁsh pie, will come and go The tapas are excellent – the list is TAST GASTRO BAR on the menu as a special. On the Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink short, but they tend to be put Av. Paral·lel, 127 (Poble-sec). day of our visit we were able to critics review anonymously and together with originality and www.tastbcn.com conƁrm improvements to classic pay their own bills.

56 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com +PVQVJGƁTG

language, it means “dog’s nose”,’ says Méndez. ‘So spicy it makes your nose sweat’), and served at the table with two juices: one made of roast onion and Puebla chilli, and the other, a vinegary relish based on the recado rojo spice blend. This is an onion that will bring tears of joy, not indigestion. ‘Throughout the year we’ve been working on the ideal tortilla,’ Méndez adds. ‘The thinner the JOAN CORTADELLAS JOAN better, so you can taste the maize without it becoming too heavy.’ The tortilla and all its derivatives Top Mex become part of the place setting – you eat both container and In just one year, Albert Adrià and Paco Méndez’s Mexican contents. There are even serving restaurant has created a language all its own. By Pau Arenós dishes without dough, like their sensational take on the Caesar Hoja Santa is the big enchilada another Adrià project due to open ingredients like truffles, foie gras salad, served on crunchy chicken among Barcelona’s Mexican next month. and Wagyu.’ They’ve mixed the skin. Once again I try the prawn restaurants, light years away from As for the inaugural year at Hoja day-to-day with the extraordinary. I tostada, the prawn broth served your average Tex-Mex. Paco Santa, ‘We’ve discovered our own love the truffle quesadilla with in a glass, and the infladita (a Méndez, Albert Adrià’s business language,’ says Méndez. ‘We’ve ceps, and the Wagyu with chichilo puffed-up tortilla) of cochinita partner and the house chef, is consolidated the team (one of the seven moles from pibil. Another dish to remember is keen to differentiate Hoja Santa [incorporating Donatello Oaxaca), an adept combination of the corvine ceviche with recado from Niño Viejo, the restaurant Romanazzi as manager and the street and the palace. But negro spices under a frozen lake, with which it shares a door, a Cristina Losada as sommelier], where I think their authentically based on an idea from El Bulli, bathroom and a main wall. Niño we’ve done in-depth work on our gourmet side comes to the fore is which in turn was inspired by Viejo is a cantina – or at least an mole sauces, we’ve brought in in their work with vegetables. Tokyo one-table eatery Mibu. Ice idealised foodie version of a I remember the pasilla mole (the product of the marination cantina – while Hoja Santa is with baby vegetables from a process) becomes a dressing. ‘popular Mexican haute cuisine’. WHAT ELSE? previous visit, a surprising Two extraordinary Mexican That may sound like an oxymoron, balancing act, and this time it’s restaurants outside Mexico: but what he’s really saying is Look out for: the onion with x-ni-pek sauce. Yes, Punto MX in Madrid, with a haute cuisine that works with Luesma & Vega’s tableware, an onion, which probably won’t Michelin star, and Hoja Santa in popular traditions. nature captured in glass excite the newer generation of Barcelona, which just last On November 4 last year, Hoja Recommended for: gourmets, still obsessed by caviar November was awarded its first Santa celebrated its first year in Fans of the most reƁ ned and white truffles, not realising star jointly with Niño Viejo. And business. I was there and Mexican cuisine that the truth lies in humbler well-deserved it is. toasted it with margaritas skilfully Stay away if: ingredients. But it’s an onion mixed by Marc Álvarez, head of You prefer your guacamole that’s been carefully prepared – HOJA SANTA cocktails at the El Barri group, from a plastic tub roasted in the Josper oven, Av. de Mistral, 54 whose final destination will be peeled and impregnated with the (Sant Antoni). T. 93 348 21 92. the enigmatic Enigma restaurant, x-ni-pek sauce (‘In the Mayan P: €90 (without wine).

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LANDO LES TRUITES Their star dish is Joan Antoni Miró a potato and sea has spent 37 urchin omelette. years creating This seasonal omelettes, like creation is not mushroom with always available, truffle sauce. but they do have Make sure you regular specials leave space to like this shiitake try the sweet one. Ptge. Pere ones for dessert. Calders, 6. Arimon, 22. IRENE FERNÁNDEZ MARIA DIAS

LA CEBA CAL PEP This Gràcia This ‘atomic’ institution, omelette is opened in 1979, not for softies. has a selection Replete with of around 55 white beans, omelettes on blood sausage offer, including (botifarra negra) seafood, meat and garlic, it’s and vegetable a gourmet’s varieties. dream. Pl. de les Perla, 10. Olles, 8. JUDIT PRAT. EL COLMADO JUDIT PRAT. If life gives you eggs... For perfect winter comfort food try local omelettes (truites in Catalan and tortillas in Spanish), from traditional potato and onion to wild creations. By Ricard Martín

LA CUINA MIGUELITO’S DEL This is a great GUINARDÓ place to try Away from the an omelette centre, in the sandwich, neighbourhood a breakfast of Horta, is this favourite with excellent deli many locals. The (and tiny eatery) perfect start to with omelettes your day for just to take away. a few euros. Av. Varsòvia, 148. Diagonal, 405. IRENE FERNÁNDEZ

FLASH FLASH TAKTIKA At BCN’s first BERRI speciality Try a runny omlette place, the version of the menu includes classic Spanish a layered omelette – omelette ‘cake’, caramelised and alcohol- onion and infused options perfect potatoes for dessert. La in a delicious Granada del egg ‘broth’. Penedès, 25. València, 169. IRENE FERNÁNDEZ IRENE FERNÁNDEZ

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and wonderfully comfortable. Catalan cuisine Còrsega, 200. T. 93 453 20 20. 7 Portes M: Hospital Clínic (L5) The eponymous seven doors open on to as many dining salons, all Bar El Velódromo kitted out in elegant 19th-century This classic serves quality dishes décor. Long-aproned waiters bring from early morning until the wee regional dishes, including a Ɓshy hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the zarzuela stew with half a lobster, a city’s cooking maestros) at the different paella daily (shellƁsh, for helm, they produce an endless example, or rabbit and snails), a succession of dishes and tapas wide array of fresh seafood, and that will teach you about Catalonia’s heavier dishes such as herbed gastronomic heritage. The full black-bean stew with pork menu is available all day, so if you sausage, and orujo sorbet to fancy some Iberian ham at 7am or a Ɓnish. Reservations are croissant for a midnight snack, available only for certain this is the place to go. tables; otherwise, get Don’t go Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 there early. hungry. Book 60 22. M: Hospital Passatge Isabel II, 14. restaurants at Clínic (L5) T. 93 319 30 33. timeout.com/ barcelona M: Barceloneta (L4) Wine bars Agut Barcelona has a wealth of eateries Can Cisa/Bar Brutal that have improved over the years. This restored neighbourhood bar Many are back on the map after combines a classic bodega at the having been forgotten, while some entrance with a wine bar at the provide the added bonus of having back. They stock 300 wines, all modernised without going mad, from organic or bio-dynamic allowing them to catch up with the producers around the world (so no demand for quality products that nasty chemicals or additives), and clients want. One such case is Agut. at accessible prices. Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) M: Jaume I (L4)

Freixa Tradició Casa Mariol The return of Josep Maria Freixa At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, which to his family home, now that his is part of the bodega of the same son Ramón has gone off to enjoy name, you’ll have the chance to get fame in Madrid, has resulted to know suau, which is a version of in a real celebration of traditional a drink (a blend of soda and coffee) cuisine – pig’s trotters with prunes that was popular in the Ribera de and pine nuts, cuttleƁsh with l’Ebre region decades ago. You can artichokes, and perhaps the Ɓnest also taste cask wines from the macaroni in Barcelona. Ebre, accompanied by a nice clotxa Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. (bread stuffed with herring, onions, M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) tomatoes and garlic), then top it all off with delicious cakes from Batea Restaurant Gaig (a town in the Ebre area). It’s currently all the rage for Barna’s Rosselló, 442. T. 93 436 76 28. top chefs to set up more-affordable M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) offshoots, and this one is under the guiding hand of Carles Gaig. Bar Nostàlgic His approach in this restaurant, as Although it’s located in the in his other ventures, is a return to fashionable Sant Antoni market grandmotherly Catalan basics, and area, this bar does not mimic the the favourite dish here is the Nordic aesthetic of most new local canelons – hearty, steaming tubes establishments. They serve a good of pasta Ɓlled with shredded beef selection of wines, particularly and topped with a fragrant from Catalonia, plus they have cold béchamel. The various dining beer on tap and an impressive list rooms manage to be both modern of gins, malt whiskies and special

Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com 59 Food & Drink rums. Gin and tonics, spritz... they Montcada, 2. make it all, including tapas to CHOCOLATE FEST T. 93 268 30 03. please even the most sybaritic M: Jaume I (L4) palates. Viladomat, 38. El Jabalí M: Sant Antoni (L2) This deli bar, which is reminiscent of Av. Paral·lel in its heyday, is a Magatzem Escolà great place to eat wonderful tapas It looks like a hoarder’s paradise of – try the patatas bravas, the wine bottles, but the shop’s staff chicken salad and the cured know exactly where everything is. sausage – while sipping on good You’ll Ɓnd a great variety of wine. It’s also a nice place to sit on products, which is the result of a the terrace and do some serious company that really knows its people watching. business and has spent more than Ronda Sant Pau, 15. half a century dedicated to wine T. 93 441 10 82. distribution. Keep a lookout for M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) their wine tasting and cocktail events. Tapas 24 Comercial, 13. Another nu-trad tapas bar focusing T. 93 167 26 55. on quality produce. Among the M: Barceloneta (L4) Be Chocolat oxtail stews, fried prawns and cod You may think you’re done with chocolate for a while thanks croquettes, however, fans of chef Monvínic to the recent festive season, but this shop/workshop Carles Abellan will also Ɓnd playful This is one of the largest could change your mind. Watch the treats being made snacks more in keeping with his information centres for wine not signature style. The McFoie Burger only in Europe but the world over. using top-class cacao, then decide if you can resist buying. is an exercise in fast-food heaven, It’s also a wine bar and restaurant. Banys Nous, 17 (Born). www.facebook.com/bechocolat as is the bikini, a small version of The latter – which focuses on his take on the ham-and-cheese traditional cuisine with a creative toastie. touch – is excellent, by the way. Tabarca Langosta’s Club Murivecchi Diputació, 269. Diputació, 249. Tino Martínez, sailor and chef This restaurant-trattoria is a T. 93 488 09 77. T. 93 272 61 87. extraordinaire, has opened an direct relative of Un Posto al Sole M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) M: Universitat (L1,L2) unusual restaurant in Barcelona in C/Urgell (No 188), and they both specialising in lobster. He has make really good pizzas. La Tieta recovered the recipes of the lobster Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. Chickpeas with prawns, potato Seafood Ɓshermen from the island of M: Jaume I (L4) omelette, mushrooms with garlic Tabarca, and uses them to create a and parsley, amazing olives – the Els Pescadors menu that includes lobster and rice Piazze d’Italia problem is knowing where to start. Josep Maulini and his wife have cooked in the lobster stock. A temple of southern Italian cuisine La Tieta offers good wine (no turned this into a lovely spot, Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 704. with an innovative and provocative classics, just what takes their combining antique furniture with M: Universitat (L1,L2) twist. The pizza chef makes the fancy that week), bottles of modern décor, and retaining its air dough spin and dance above his vermouth and an endless Ƃow of of a small-town bar. One delicious Ɓngertips before transforming it draught beer, while the food is recommendation: grilled sardines Pizza into an outstanding crust. Try their good traditional fare made from in sauce, though they don’t always sweet Nutella pizza, which is fresh ingredients, with skill and have them. Rice dishes are a La Bella Napoli completely over the top but not to enthusiasm. staple on the menu, and never There can be few Barcelona be missed. Blai, 1. T. 93 186 35 95. disappoint. residents who haven’t tried the Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Plaça Prim, 1. wonderful pizzas served in this M: Rocafort (L1) T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) place with an authentic Italian Taverna Mediterrània atmosphere and noisy, cheerful Chef Fran Monrabà has renovated Rías de Galicia waiters. Book a table if you’re going Tapas this restaurant by combining This restaurant is the setting for at the weekend. traditional intentions with a the Iglesias family’s wonderful Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. Bar del Pla determination to do things relationship with the Ɓnest M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) Positioned somewhere between a differently. Classic tapas are seafood. The menu includes French bistro and a tapas bar, Bar made with a touch of added Cantabrian lobster with garlic, John La Bricciola del Pla serves tapas and small imagination and effort – Dory and txangurro crab A real Italian trattoria with good plates (divine pig’s trotters with recommendations include cannelloni. And when it’s in pizzas and fantastic pasta. foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). Andalusian-style fried squid rings season, they have the exquisite Features a noteworthy wine list and Drinks include Mahou on tap (a Ɓne and delicious stuffed roast pork. Bordeaux lamprey. some great Italian grappa. beer that’s often ignored here Enric Granados, 58. T. 626 86 Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. because it’s from Madrid), plus 68 21. M: Diagonal (L3,L5); M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) M: Mercat Nou (L1) some good wines by the glass. FGC: Provença

60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.tickets.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Martí Sales [email protected] LGBT @itramselas BCN has LGBT hotspots, such as the Raval, but Girl seeks girl the scene is increasingly If you’re looking to meet women like you, here’s our guide to the decentralised places around town where you should head. By Hannah Pennell

Restaurants DJs and indie music While the neighbourhoods of If you’re into alternative, modern Gràcia and Sant Gervasi used to music, you should keep an eye out for be the sole zones for lesbians in Les Fatales (below) and Muerta Sánchez this city, and the Gaixample has – wherever these DJs play you’re had its golden age, the Raval has bound to find friends. They’re often to become one of Barcelona’s LGBT be seen at Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, hotspots, with a variety of venues 113) as well as smaller Raval venues. in the area where you can meet Somoslas is a gay indie party held at girls who like girls. For seeking La [2] de Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, them out while dining well, try La 111), and don’t miss Nenis, a Monroe (Plaça de Salvador Seguí, Saturday night event organised by 1, shown right), Manolito veteran Barcelona DJ Lady Chus, who (Robador, 18) or the atmospheric regularly performs herself (Consell Las Fernández (Carretes, 11). de Cent, 280; www.nenis.info).

Party nights One of the big trends in BCN at the moment are regular party nights, which take place every fortnight or so, or once a month. If you’re a fan of pop hits or classic sounds, then try Stupenda at Aire (Diputació, 233); Girlicious (www.facebook.com/ GirliciouspartyBarcelona, shown left) from the Matinée Group, who also organise the annual Girlie Circuit Festival; Silk BCN (www.facebook. com/silk.bcn); Melon Party (www. facebook.com/melonparty); or Las Vecinas del Cuarto (www.facebook. com/lasvecinasdelcuarto). IVÁN MORENO IVÁN Bars Elsewhere Ideal for a drink are La Penúltima If you’re in the mood for a night of (Riera Alta, 40, shown left), Madame monologues, an art exhibition or Jasmine (Rambla del Raval, 22) enjoying the latest Barça match and La Casa de la Pradera (Carretes, in good company, La Sue BCN 57), where you can also go dancing (Villarroel, 60, left) is ideal. Since if you can find space. On Friday opening in 2012, it’s become one of and Saturday nights, head uptown the key places for women to meet to La Rosa (Brusi, 39), which is a women in the city, and on special veritable institution on the lesbian occasions, they host popular party night scene. The regular vermouth nights. Alternatively, if you fancy parties from VenTú! are also worth a trying your hand at the tango, head go. You need to check their website to Rouge Lab 2.1 (Poeta Cabanyes, (ventubcn.es) to find out the venue, 21; Tue 8pm, Thu 8.30pm) for a as it changes each time. gay-friendly class. IVÁN MORENO IVÁN IRENE FERNÁNDEZ

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that’s just about to celebrate its first decade – you can’t miss this event at Nitsa Club on January 29. Shelby Grey opens the night’s proceedings, presumably taking us on a trip through unexpected spaces with a touch of magic. Imagining what Trentemøller’s musical selection might be means taking a lot of risk, as he’s not the kind of DJ who opts for the Beatport top 10 nor is he guided by any kind of trend. For instance, the session that he recorded in mid-2013 for the Resident Advisor portal was a tribute to the darkest elements of post-rock with pieces from Tropic of Cancer, Beak>, The Soft Moon and Dirty

Imagining what music Trentemøller might select is a risk Beaches – guitars, gloom, groans, fear and little inclination for an intense, continuous rhythm. That was a podcast, and Nitsa will be something different again, of course. Our man will choose material that is closer to techno than house – that’s always what he does when he decides to look a bit further back in time – but

CHRISTIAN BERTRAND we can’t even be sure of the domestication of his eclectism. He’ll surely seek a cosmic sensation, a journey as much for The reluctant DJ the body as for the mind – and the whole soul – and it’s likely that, It’s not often you get to see Anders Trentemøller behind the decks, when you come down to earth so don’t miss his show this month in Barcelona. By Javier Blánquez after more than two hours flying, the voyage will leave you shaken. Although he’s a fantastic DJ, it’s more related to soundtracks may be – but it’s certainly not It’s like magic – you don’t know not every day (or week, or and the instrumental rock something he does with much the mechanics of the trick but the month...) you get the chance to environment, the Danish artist no frequency. As a result, whenever result leaves your mouth hanging see Anders Trentemøller behind longer needs to whip his public up he does step up it’s a big deal and open and your body exhausted. the decks. This is clearly through into convulsive movement. And a deƁnite cause for celebration. his own choice. Following his when he perfoms live, he prefers If you’re a fan of Trentemøller – Anders Trentemøller decision to progressively to do it in a concert format. This and you had a lot of fun with his performs at Nitsa Club at Sala withdraw from the mainstream doesn’t, however, mean that he first album The Last Resort Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113) electronic music circuit and really hates spinning records – or (2006), a fundamental work of on Friday 29 at 12.30am. explore sound arenas that are mixing old audio Ɓles, as the case the ‘new’ expansive electronica www.sala-apolo.com

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Anti-Karaoke Sessions RULING THE STAGE This is the hard rock version of karaoke, with dressing up and Nasty Mondays obsessive fans, all under the Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: watchful eye of MC, US comedian the city’s wildest Monday night and actor Rachel Arieff. party. Miss it at your peril. Sidecar Factory Club (details Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon includes one drink. midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 (advance). Price includes one Cupcake drink. Take a trip down memory lane without forgetting to live in the Raw Rebels moment, with hits from the Dance to the best beats of the ’70s right up to the present day. ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local Sala Apolo (details above). Thu and international DJs. 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, (advance). Price includes one

7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. €5. ERREAPÉ PAULA drink. Price includes one drink. The Bus Music Club Caníbal Sound System Kings’ Night special Session celebrating non- Live acts, DJs and roots music Sala Apolo hosts its traditional January 5 event with a visit commercial, non-mainstream and make for an underground vibe at not from the Three Kings but from two of Spain’s best MCs, underground music. this long-running club night. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). M: Sala Apolo (details above). Wed Shotta and DJ Nexxa. They’re joined by Rxnde Akozta, a key Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. €15 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 Ɓ gure on Cuba’s underground rap scene, and Dominican P8 (on the door). €13 (advance). Price (advance). Price includes one drink. Guevera. Tuesday 5, 8.30pm.€15. www.sala-apolo.com includes one drink.

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02

01 03 04 At the heart of Catalonia Take a trip inland to the beautiful town of Vic for history, culture and good food. By Hannah Pennell

About 80 minutes by train from the travel during the Middle Ages, demolished. Today it’s home to a When you’re hungry, there are centre of Barcelona, and located featuring 100 items from other municipal gallery. various places worth trying. El pretty much slap bang in the Catalan and European museums The Museu del Pell (Leather Caliu has an extensive menu middle of Catalonia, Vic is a (until Feb 14). Next to the museum Museum, Arquebisbe Alemany, 5; where salads, a wide range of fantastically historical city with is Vic Cathedral, made up of www.museuartpellvic.cat) grilled meats, and a selection of lots to see. At the town’s heart is myriad architectural styles, explores how leather has been toasted bread topped with paté, the impressive Plaça Major (2), including Romanesque, Gothic used both in Europe and further cheese or cured meats all feature an expansive arcaded site that’s afield to create items such as (Riera, 13; www.elcaliuvic.com). home to a popular and historical chests, altar frontals, chairs, If you’re a fan of seafood, you market, which takes place on masks and more, and looks at the should head to Boccatti. This old- Tuesday and Saturday mornings. The Museu del various techniques employed in fashioned bar-restaurant is run by If you’re on the hunt for original their production. a husband and wife, and its dishes gifts, check out the local baskets, Pell looks at how The local tourist office runs are surprisingly good considering terracotta pots and, arguably the leather is used guided tours around the city, while how far Vic is from the sea. It’s not most famous product of the for those who prefer to make their cheap, though – expect to pay region, embotits (cured meats). to create chests, own way, signposted cultural between €10 and €12 for Another highlight of Vic is the chairs and more routes have been created to help starters, and at least €25 for main Museu Episcopal (Pl. del Bisbe you appreciate all that Vic has to courses (Mossèn Josep Gudiol, Oliva, 3; www.museuepiscopal. and neo-classical. offer (3,4). To make your trip even 21; boccatti.es). com). It houses some wonderful Other architecture worth easier, get your hands on the ‘VII 12th-century murals and an checking out includes the Roman de Vic’ ticket, which gives you FOOTNOTE Take the train to Vic excellent collection of Gothic and temple (1), which was uncovered entry to seven different spaces from the stations of either Romanesque art. As well as its in the late 19th century when the for just €10. Check out www. Barcelona-Sants or Plaça de 20,000 or so objects, you can walls surrounding it, which dated victurisme.cat for details of all Catalunya. Tickets cost €6.15 currently see an exhibition about from the 12th century, were this and more. each way. www.victurisme.cat

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Weekend in Tarragona Once a key Roman community, the city of Tarragona offers numerous attractions for lovers of the past. By Hannah Pennell

Tárraco, as the Romans knew Roman villas of Munts and Tarragona, used to be Catalonia’s Centelles. main metropolis. Dating from 218 Plaça del Rei, 5; www.mnat.cat BC, it was one of the Ɓrst Roman cities to be built outside Italy and CATHEDRAL OF SANTA TECLA featured all the key institutions of While Tarragona thrived under the the empire both in leisure and work Romans, there are features from terms. There are some signiƁcant the Middle Ages that show it wasn’t elements left from those times, doing too badly during that period which have collectively been either. The Cathedral, consecrated named a World Heritage Site by in 1331, stands at the highest UNESCO, while across the city you point of the city. Particularly worth can trace its development of the seeing is the cloister, an past 2,000 years. exceptional architectural and sculptural ensemble from the 12th ROMAN RELICS and 13th centuries. At its entrance, Start your tour of the remains of you’ll Ɓnd the Diocesan Museum, Tárraco by following the Passeig which has a collection of medieval Arqueològic, a path along what’s left of the walls that once surrounded the town. You will also be able to see part of the ancient Sit in the stands Praetorium, which was used as a palace and government ofƁce, and and imagine is thought by some to be the watching chariot birthplace of Pontius Pilate. The star attractions, though, are the CATHEDRAL OF SANTA TECLA races and 2,000-year-old Amphitheatre and INCFKCVQTƁIJVU underground Circus. This 93-metre-long corridor through (and modern) religious art from the which all passed who had to burst local area that includes tapestries, into the arena driving chariots, is ceramics and goldwork. nothing short of spectacular. In the Plaça de la Seu, s/n; main section some spectator www.catedraldetarragona.com stands are still in situ, so you can imagine watching the races, FISHING NEIGHBOURHOOD gladiator Ɓghts and executions. Nowadays Tarragona’s Ɓshing Single-entry tickets to each Roman neighbourhood of El Serrallo is site cost €3.30; a combined ticket is popular for its impressive seafood €7.45 – reductions are available. restaurants (we suggest Buy in advance at: www. Restaurant Manolo at Gravina, 61, tarracoticket.cat and Ca l’Eulàlia located on Plaça Bisbe Bonet). However, in the mid- NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL 19th century this area was MUSEUM developed to provide housing for This is the oldest archaeological local Ɓshermen following the museum in Catalonia and an arrival of trains in Tarragona and important centre for the recovery, the expansion of the city’s long- conservation, research and established Ɓshing industry. dissemination of the heritage of Although many of the original Tárraco and its area of inƂuence. homes were knocked down in the On display are numerous pieces 1960s, it still retains a special from the Roman era, and the ambience that’s worth exploring, mosaics are considered to be of especially on a sunny day. special value. Other sites are also ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE

part of the museum, including the LÓPEZ-MONNÉ RAFAEL www.tarragonaturisme.cat

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Top Ten The Ɓsh aren’t so impressed, but 1 luckily, they can’t vote. Roof of Santa Caterina market Colours Enric Miralles and Benedetta 7 Tagliabue showed off all their Black and yellow design talent with this roof that’s of the city The revived Catalanista blessed the market (Av. Francesc movement has seen Barcelona Cambó, 16) for a decade now. Ɓll up with yellow and red (the The colourful surface, which is colours of both the Catalan and inspired by Gaudí’s broken tile Spanish Ƃags, representing the mosaics (trencadissos), includes pro- and anti-independence 325,000 tiles, although I must movements), while Barça admit I haven’t checked that triumphs bring out the red and Ɓgure personally. blue team colours, and traces of the city’s anarchism remain in red and black. But whatever else 2 is going on, the bee-coloured Torre Agbar taxis keep on driving. It’s particularly at night that this giant suppository in Pl. de les Glòries – designed by Jean 8 Nouvel and a competitor of Pigeon grey Norman Foster’s Gherkin in In Valencia the pigeons are white London – gleams. That’s thanks and make the city look pretty. In to a system of LEDs created by Barcelona, they’re grey and add Yann Kersalé, who says he was 1 nothing to local style. It seems aiming for a moiré effect. these birds are doomed to be Conclusion: Nouvel 1, Foster 0 – grey because even non-native in this case, at least. parrots that appeared a few years back are losing their green. Biologists should get on the 3 case. Is it a mimetic reaction? Sagrada Família vegetation In Gaudí’s temple nothing is subtle, and the fruit and 9 vegetables dangling down from )GJT[oUƁUJ the lateral sculptures are a The stainless steel sculpture in prime example of this. The truth front of the beachside Hotel Arts is that, unlike with us humans, all has golden tones that distance it new architectural elements are from a humble cod or miserable horrifying until they grow old. sardine. This Ɓsh is like a giant gilded carp, and a reminder of 9 when the city experienced a 4 construction gold fever, the Pink from above effects of which it’s still suffering. From Tibidabo theme park headaches they cause the Barcelona looks pink, and I’m not municipal Parks and Gardens just saying that because I was all department. What would locals 10 loved up there after canoodling do without them? We need the Frogs at the zoo with some guy at the nearby glimmering leaves in spring, and There’s the red tomato variety Arrabassada lookout point, but well-withered ones in autumn. from Madagascar, the blue because it’s scientiƁcally – ie, poison dart one, the golden empirically – proven. Go up one poison dart one (which is actually sunny winter day and you’ll see. 6 light green and shiny black), the Marine petrol giant monkey frog, the oriental This city is so cool that the sea Ɓre-bellied toad and several more 5 here is irridescent, particularly in that seem to say ‘Look but don’t Plane tree leaves the port area. Look down at the touch, I’m full of venom.’ It’s lucky They’re the city’s main indicator water as you cross the walkway that nature, ever diligent, sends of the seasons, and that’s why to the Maremagnum shopping out these warnings. planes have to keep being the centre and you’ll see how it 2 trees of Barcelona, despite the shines in a rainbow of colours. By Ada Castells

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