OFFICIAL FREE BCN GUIDE! FREE ISSUE_SEPFREE 2012_N. 2 BcnGuide IN ENGLISH

624 Arts La Mercè is back! Contents September 2012 IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN ;14 Food & Drink Maremagnum revamps its food hall

H22 Around Town Experience Gaudí as never before

08 Feature 22 Around Town Hidden neighbourhoods of Gaudí in four dimensions 24 Arts 14 Food & Drink The city’s greatest festival Where to eat, drink and takes to the streets shop with a sea view 26 Nightlife 20 Shopping The quirky Bodega Saltó Delicate silks and sexy sandals in Sant Gervasi 29 Listings

TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE Advertising Nuria Gómez Diputació, 119 [email protected] ([email protected]), 93 202 95 95 www.barcelonaturisme.com Mercè Llubera www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Produced by 80 + 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Production Sally Davies & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Impreso por Bigsa Indústria Gràfi ca Editor-in-Chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, Ricard DL. B.25082-2012 Art Director Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia ISSN 2014-7767 Diego Piccininno Sendra Supported by Features & Web Editor Translation Maria José Gómez Nick Chapman

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Monthly planner Get out your diaries! We present just a handful of the cultural highlights for the month of September.

Saturday 1 Sunday 2 Friday 7

THE FLYING JACK WHITE MECAL AIR DUTCHMAN White Stripes Brand new short Wagner’s opera frontman brings films and music presented in his solo act to documentary in an concert form by the promote new album open-air festival, at Bayreuth Festival. Blunderbuss. el . See 38. See 39. See 41.

Saturday 8 Tuesday 11

24H DE BCN LA DIADA AUTOMOBILISME Concerts, Twenty-four hours speeches and of motor-racing at protest marches the Montmeló for Catalan race circuit. National Day. See 41. See 42.

Thursday 13 Wednesday 19 Wednesday 00

MONA HATOUM FESTIVAL ASIA Exhibition of This celebration of the work of this all things Asian celebrated artist kicks off today in at the Fundació various venues Joan Miró. around town. See 43. See 44-45.

Saturday 22 Sunday 23

LA MERCÈ ZOO The inimitable ANNIVERSARY festa major of the Free entry to the city, with music, zoo as part of its fireworks and other 120th anniversary Catalan pageantry. celebrations. See 46. See 46.

4 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 5 The Hot Seat MARIA DIAS Jordi Muñoz Co-director of the largest writing school in Europe. By Ada

Is the Escola d’Escriptura at the media attention, and at least a Ateneu Barcelonès really the quarter have been awarded literary biggest creative writing school prizes or become featured titles in in Europe? bookshops. Yes, we’re second only to a writing What’s the profi le of the average school in New York. The numbers student? speak for themselves: since the The school brings together people school was set up 14 years ago, who love language and literature, more than 12,000 students have and plan to turn their passion into attended our courses. Over 1,700 a full-time job – either through people have signed up for the 20 writing or by pursuing a career classes we’re running this year. in publishing – or who simply You’re in the big league! want to deepen their enjoyment Yes, but it’s not just about the of reading and writing. Within each number of students who sign up, group is a fantastic mix of people, it’s also about the range of courses with students of all ages, from 18 we offer and the fact that we have to 80. Every term we also run a more than 90 teachers, it’s about course for young writers, aged from the leading authors who visit us 15 to 17 years. every term, and the number of books by students and ex-students that are published every year. 12,000 I take there are a lot? students have attended This year we set a new record: creative writing courses at more than 100 published works. the Ateneu Barcelonès. Some of them have had a lot of

6 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 7 BARCELONA UNSEEN

Take a stroll through some of the city’s less-frequented corners – the ones that rarely show up in the guidebooks. Below you’ll find three city walks that reveal the city’s hidden past and little-known spots, along with some tempting eating and drinking options. By Eulàlia Iglesias Photos Carla Tramullas

01. SANTS A STROLL THROUGH THE SECRET HISTORY OF AN INDUSTRIAL DISTRICT

1. FACTORIES Henriette Cros house and the Casa At the beginning of the 20th century, de les Bruixes – the witches’ house. Sants was the location of some of the largest factories in , most of 2. LOCAL VIBES which have now been put to new use. Along Carrer d’Iberia you’ll find the Our journey through the district’s square of the same name, a public industrial past begins at the Plaça de space where the traditional spirit of Sants metro station (lines 1 & 5). Take the neighbourhood is still very alive – the Carrer de Sants exit and head with its wine cellar, water fountain towards Plaça d’Espanya. The first and the oldest building in Sants, the street on your right is C/Olzinelles: Casa del Rellotge – the ‘clock follow it to number 31, the location of house’, now a civic centre. Lleialtat Santseca, a workers’ co-operative housed in a majestic 3. BISECTING THE TRIANGLE building designed by Josep Alemany. Cross Carrer de Sants to enter the area Turn into Carrer d’Altafulla, and known as the Sants Triangle, built to down Carrer de Dalmau, which house workers at the huge Espanya despite its small size, hides some of Industrial textile works. Following C/ the district’s architectural gems – the Riego, you’ll come to the Plaça d’Osca,

8 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 PARC DE L’ESPANYA INDUSTRIAL VAPOR VELL LIBRARY

COTXERES DE SANTS the heart of the Triangle and once the 5. RISING FROM THE ASHES site of the district’s market. Now head away from Sants station along the Passeig de Sant Antoni, 4. TO THE PARK back towards Plaça de Sants. As The Espanya Industrial factory is you arrive at the square, you pass now a park, accessed via the original the Cotxeres de Sants, on Carrer factory gates on C/Muntadas. The Sants 79, another civic centre, street takes it name from the family occupying what were once tram that founded the first cotton trading sheds. Take Carrer Joan Güell company in . From here you can towards the Vapor Vell (‘old steam’) admire what remains of the once- textile factory, built by Joan Güell in mighty Espanya Industrial works: its 1840, and the oldest factory in Sants. nursery (now an infant school, the After the firm’s closure, the factory Escola Bressol Pau), the Casa del complex fell into decline, until the Mig and a shady stand of plane trees. city council acquired the building Further on, another remnant of the to convert it into a school and the factory building has been converted district’s main library. This brings into the lively Hostafrancs civic you to the end of the walk – not far centre (Rector Triadó, 53). from the beginning.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 9 02. LA SALUT A LITTLE-KNOWN NEIGHBOURHOOD JUST BEYOND PARK GÜELL

SANT JOSEP DE LA MUNTANYA

1. POWERFUL PINS stands the building known locally Cross into the La Salut district from as the ‘iron house’, because of the northern side of Plaça de the striking use it makes of iron. Lesseps, which you can reach by This unusual apartment block metro (Lesseps, L3). This is one of the was designed by Francesc Rius in hilliest neighbourhoods in the city, so the 1970s. warm up those calf muscles as you follow Passatge de Napoleó up to the 2. HAUNTED HOUSES small and peaceful square that it It’s worth taking a short diversion forms with Carrer de Valldoreix. From towards the Rambla de Mercedes to here, join the steeply winding admire some of the most unusual Avinguda del Coll del Portell. The private houses in Barcelona. On the effort is repaid by two architectural corner with Carrer Sant Josep, stands points of interest: at number 43 you’ll a mysterious building that seems to find Casa Vilaró, the first Rationalist have been excavated out of the rock – building to be constructed in the city. and on C/Olot there’s the house which Despite the surrounding wall, it’s easy Carlos Ruiz Zafón made the residence to make out the rounded, boat-like of his fictional character Andreas profile, designed by Sixt Illescas in Corelli, in The Angel’s Game. At 1929. A little further on, at number 52, number 74, the Casal la Miranda,

10 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 ASCENT TO LA SALUT

THE IRON HOUSE RAMBLA DE MERCEDES’ HOUSE

which looks like a sort of mountain Carrer de Sant Josep de Cottolengo. chalet, is the district’s main cultural Continue along the Carrer de Molist, and social centre. until you come to Carrer de la Salut, site of the chapel of the Mare de Déu 3. PARK GÜELL, UNDERCOVER de la Salut, which gives the district Follow the street along the section its name – Salut means “health” in that skirts the western edge of Park Catalan. The street is lined with Güell, to enjoy stunning views: with imposing mansions, some still private Tibidabo in the background, the hilly residences, others now converted into districts of Putxet, Carmel, la Creueta hospitals. The health theme comes del Coll and la Rovira spread before to a climax with the Hospital de you. If you step inside the park at one l’Esperança. This building, designed of these less-frequented gates, you’ll by Antoni Fisas, is a fine example of find theCasa Martí Trias, one of two Rationalist architecture. In front of houses built in the park, and the only the hospital stands a far more one that is still a private residence. imposing ecclesiastical monument than the Salut Chapel: the sanctuary of 4. HEALTH KICK Sant Josep de la Muntanya. From here Leave the park via the Camí de Can it’s only a few minutes walk to the Mora, and head down the narrow starting point in Plaça Lesseps.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 11 03. SANT ANTONI A GASTRONOMIC RAMBLE THROUGH AN UP-AND-COMING NEIGHBOURHOOD

CAN VILARÓ MARIA DIAS

1. BREAKFAST 3. LUNCH Start at the heart of the district, the Still on C/Manso, on the corner with majestic Sant Antoni market, first C/Viladomat, Bohèmic (CManso, 42) built in 1882 and currently undergoing has become one of the most talked- a major refurbishment. The Sant about gastronomic experiences in the Antoni metro station is right next city. With a bistro feel inside and a door. Make your way round the small terrace outside, Bohèmic is the market and follow the delicious smell ideal destination for a romantic date, of coffee up C/Comte Borrell towards specialising in tapas and exquisitely Cafès Roure, a café and coffee prepared tasting portions made with merchant’s where you can taste the very best ingredients. And if you freshly roasted coffees from around still have room for pudding, you can the world. After a coffee, it’s time for round off the walk with an ice cream or the delights of a traditional Catalan a traditional orxata – a refreshing esmorzar de forquilla – hearty drink made of tiger nuts and almonds breakfast dishes, eaten with a fork. – at Bonastre (Avda Mistral, 10). Further up C/Comte Borrell, is Can Vilaró (Comte Borrell, 61) while in the opposite direction you’ll findPa i Trago, on the corner of C/Parlament.

2. APERITIF For the typical mid-morning glass of vermouth, head to the Bodega d’en Rafael (C/Manso, 52), which is worth a visit for its unique décor alone: dozens of wall tiles that tell the story of Don Quixote in pictures. Rafael and his wife would stand a good chance in a competition to find BOHÈMIC

Barcelona’s friendliest bar owners. PEREZ MARTA

12 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 13 Food & Drink Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected]

Seaside treats The Maremagnum shopping centre has dedicated a whole floor to a range of gastronomic delights that leaves most food halls in the shade. By Ricard Martín

Five years ago, Barcelona’s only range of good-quality dining shopping centre with views of the options that have started to draw Mediterranean embarked on a both locals and tourists. There are 20 comprehensive rethink, designed to establishments in total, distributed make it more attractive to family around a spacious central plaza, groups. They had already got rid of which is fully integrated into the the rows of seedy discos that once rest of the space and its seaside flanked the building and turned a surroundings. All in all, it’s a pleasant night-time stroll by the docks into a place to eat. vaguely menacing experience: from Fabián Martín, prizewinning pizza 2007 onwards the remaining champion, decide to locate his new nightclubs were closed down, giving venture Pizza y Más here because ‘in priority to family-oriented activities. general, the quality is high, with The finishing touch is a total plenty of really good restaurants.’ makeover for the shopping centre This means ‘People might eat pizza itself, converting the whole of the one day, sushi the next, but they’ll second floor into a food hall, with a keep coming back.’ He’s made some

14 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012

Food & Drink FOTOS: IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN FOTOS: 15 , 630 Ous i chain has Espai Gust Bi-En Hamburguesa Time Out BCN Guide , gourmet charcuterie specialise in omelettes (from burger bar where you can eat you bar where burger Fishhh! Those who like to tryThose who like a bit of Truites and to pigs’ trotters) vegetables roast can grab a You ratatouille croquettes. in at celebrated and drop oyster tray bar orAndreu, the Nostra that all in the knowledge fill, safe your their beef comes with a certificate of quality. MAREMAGNUM s/n. Moll de la Fusta, 11am-midnight daily. openedrestaurant its first serving what they call ‘Japan-terranean’ cuisine, Catalan and Mediterranean classics with a Japanese touch. will love everything You to tasting. m2 dedicated entirely ten dishes from can pick take-away food bars to different eat at the central like. you – or wherever tables than 100 diners in serried ranks facing the cinema – a great option for a quick bite. The September 2012

have a have Udon (‘Looking out to sea’) At the other side of the plaza, Noodle specialists and living right up to its name, right up to its and living Mirandoalmar is the other big attraction. The menu, designed by chef Rafa de Valicourt, their motto focuses on local produce: up cuisine’, summing is ‘Barcelona their mission to bring good-quality Catalonia to all over from products – cured meatsBarcelona and and the Alt Urgell from sausages the Pyrenees. from dairy products based on seasonal Dishes are produce seafood–and fresh such as their John Dory fresh-looking incredibly seen never have which they promise the inside of a fish farm. changes to the formula of his original restaurant on Via Laietana: homemade pasta on the menu, there’s as his gourmetas well croquettes (with brie and spinach a la Catalana, for example, or foie with black truffles).are What hasn’t changed the excellent pizzas. new branch seating too: new here more Food & Drink Aparicio unlikely tofindatable. don’t have areservation, you’re you there’s only onedrawback: if food– serviceandgreat the list.Great towards expensiveendof themore selection, withoutpushingyou guide you knowledgeably through the –will himself Jaume waiters –or the thebank,andanybreak of optionsthat won’t offers plentyof presented.beautifully Thewinelist sauces–is andtunawithfour tartare rocket andmackerel saladtosteak smoked courgette or of carpaccio unfussy, andevery dish –from just behindtheAjuntament. Gòtic, theBarri of waiters, attheheart with romantic lightingandfriendly ever. It’s welcoming space, awarm, despite theyears, Plaisbetterthan that means guiding handwhich an active it’s andperhaps presence, his Plaisstill introduction. OwnerJaume thathardlya restaurant needs thisis After 14years inoperation, Around €45 T. 934126552 C/Bella Pla 16 Spaghetti allachitarra

MARIA DIAS DISH THE IIII The menuisimaginative but Time Out BCNGuide Time fi la, 5 I –Marcelo September 2012 OA icVT €48,95 13 2,35 8,40 9 8 1,20 7 TOTAL (incVAT) 2 glassesofwine 1 draughtbeer 1/2 seabass 1/2 steaktartar 1/2 foiegras 1 rocket salad 1 bread PLA (1PERSON) 02/€ C/Urgell, 5. DAI MO fl of intensitytothe adds awholenew level (cured tunaroe)–which with shavings of tuna tartar, sprinkled with lemoncreamand spaghetti Dai Moserves avour. –MA THE BILL 13.90

T. 9353920 botargo

MARIA DIAS

Cinc Sentits For all the senses A beautiful space, where chef Jordi Artal creates imaginative dishes that live up to the name Cinc Sentits, ‘five senses’. Let Hot yourself be carried away with dishes such as mar i muntanya with crispy pork belly, or saffron allioli and griddled tables! cuttlefish. MA– Edited by Marcelo Aparicio (C/Aribau, 58). M: Universitat (L1-L2). T. 93 323 94 90. From €40 to €60. Our themed selection Club 53 of Barcelona’s best Brazilian inspiration From the ashes restaurants. of the late lamented Tapioles 53 rises the exquisite Club 53: creative cuisine By Marcelo Aparicio from a Brazilian chef whose inspired creations include her “fake risotto” in which melon-seed pasta substitutes for rice – fantastic. –MA Signature (C/Tapioles, 53). M: Poble Sec (L3). cuisine T. 93 329 22 38. From €20 to €40. Can Vallès Codium Taste and refinement Fine diners Serene cuisine Chef Juanjo who have never visited Can Vallés are in Rodríguez’s approach to cooking is for a pleasant surprise. The young chef, honest and beautifully thought out. originally from Galicia in northwest Classics are brought up to date, with Spain, has established a reputation for dishes like tuna tataki with wasabi ice- excellence: the proof is that the dining cream or his salt cod with porrusalada – room is usually packed. Book well in ample proof of his savoir faire. –MA advance to guarantee a table, especially (C/Villarroel, 88). M: Urgell (L1). T. 93 451 at lunchtimes and weekends. –MA 09 50. From €30 to €40. Set lunch available. (C/Aragó, 95). M: (L3). T. 93 226 06 67. From €30 to €40. Enoteca Seafood star Chef Paco Pérez, from Casa Calvet the seaside town of Llançà, won his first Tradition and innovation Since Michelin star in Barcelona, but he did it Casa Calvet opened in 1994, chef by staying true to his roots, the traditions Miquel Alija has worked to create his of the fishing villages of Cap de Creus, own style of cuisine, incorporating the where cooks pride themselves on getting latest culinary innovations into the very best from the finest seafood. His traditional Mediterranean cookery. With sea cucumbers with wild mushrooms are an excellent wine-cellar, this is a great unmissable.– Ricard Martín city centre option, close to Plaça (C/Marina, 19-21 ()). M: Urquinaona. –MA Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 483 (C/Casp, 48). T. 93 412 40 12. From €40 81 03. From €60. to €60. Set lunch available. Florentina Cercle d’Amics Friendly bistro In France they’d call Creativity and talent Finnish this a bistro – but this is a friendlier, more chef Jani Passikoski (Dos Cielos, Via easygoing proposition. There are plenty Veneto, Racó d’en Freixa, Bravo) is a of traditional dishes, but also shining light: in an age of culinary innovations such as scallops with clichés, his cooking is creative and chickpeas, lamb sweetbreads with highly individual, always seeking a new morels, or creamy rice with crab, from the angle on classic recipes. –MA skilful hands of Margarita Muñoz. –MA (C/Rosselló, 209). M: Provença (FGC). (C/Saragossa, 122). M: Pàdua (FGC) i T. 93 237 89 02 . From €40 to €60. Set Lesseps (L3). T. 93 211 26 95. From €30 lunch and evening menus available. to €40.

18 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Food & Drink 19 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012

Shopping Edited by Eugenia Sendra [email protected] FOTOS: MARIA DIAS Following the silk (and sandal) route Anaid Kupuri’s footwear and Maria Roch’s clothing line share top billing at RooM, a new boutique in Sant Gervasi. By Laia Beltran

In RooM’s window displays, highlights of this year’s collection clothes hang from the ceiling and from Catalan designer Maria Roch. shoes tumble out of antique drawers. Delicate, weightless garments, with There are unexpected details – a unexpected twists provided by zips, bunch of white hydrangeas or a box pockets and pleats, and her special of pebbles dotted with candles. All predilection for natural tones – this you can see from the street, but you’ll look in vain for strident, this is just a hint of what is to come, clashing colours. and the interior is easily a match for The same principles guide the the façade. Anaid Kupuri footwear line: sobriety, A church pew, wooden chests of elegance and timelessness. Mexican drawers, Modernista tiles, coiled designer Anaid Cano strikes the ropes, plaster goats’ heads, fresh perfect balance between high design fl owers, velvet cushions, fl uorescent and comfort, and her high-heeled lights softly changing colour: the sandals seduce the eyes. It’s your feet interior of RooM brims with that will fall in love with them, creativity and wry humour. It’s however, right from the very fi rst beautiful in and of itself, proving that moment you put them on. a shop can be more than a space for economic transactions. ROOM Shirts, dresses and overalls, all C/Laforja, 112. made from Indian silks, are the T. 93 159 18 03.

20 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Shopping 21 are from sandals brogues Time Out BCN Guide nish. (€165) Every needs a wardrobe could pair of Oxfords. You do a lot worse than these masculine in beige Anaid Kupuri, leather with a snakeskin fi Wedge-heel Wedge-heel back with a vengeance. feet a step your Take further this design with which from Anaid Kupuri, combines red leather with black laces. (€165) September 2012 from Maria makes great great makes shirt use of zips and ruches. Both up-to-the-minute and versatile – you’ll it take to want never off. (€149) This aquamarine silk This aquamarine silk mini-dress Roch: the raspberry colour, Roch: the raspberry colour, and pockets the huge front A pleats. the over-the-top to wear summer classic, (199€) year after year. We love everything love about We this silk Around Town Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected]

Gaudí enters the fourth dimension A documentary and an interactive exhibition shed new light on Antoni Gaudí. By Eugènia Sendra

Only 150 yards from the Park Güell, theatrical productions have where visitors throng to have their entertained Spanish-speaking photo taken next to Gaudí’s audiences since the 1970s. multicoloured lizard, all is quiet. A We fi le into the auditorium, fi t our few passers-by peer at the windows 3D glasses and fasten our seatbelts of Carrer Larrard 41, and are drawn for a trip through Barcelona at the in by souvenirs displayed like works beginning of the 20th century of art. Inside, an army of attendants (complete with jolts and surprise in black uniforms surges forward to eff ects at knee level – welcome to the inform them that they’re in the G world of 4D). We try a quiz: what Experiència, a unique space that will links Journey to the Moon, by take them inside the mind of Antoni pioneering fi lmmaker Georges Gaudí and reveal his inspiration. Méliès, and the Arabian salon Gaudí Others know why they’re here: they designed in 1902 for the great Café want to see the architect’s legacy Torino in Barcelona, whose speciality brought to life in a 4D documentary was Martini? The answer’s and interactive exhibition. They somewhere in the interactive menu. include a fair number of locals who Come and try it. have succumbed to the Gaudí eff ect, but are also curious to see the latest G EXPERIÈNCIA venture from exhibition designers La Larrard, 41. 9 €. Trinca, whose irreverent music and gaudiexperiencia.com

22 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 23 Arts Edited by Josep Lambies [email protected] ANKY Mercè mission The end of September sees the whole of Barcelona spill out on to the streets to celebrate La Mercè, the festival of the year.

Every town in Catalonia has its festa Plaça Espanya, but the real red-hot major, an annual street party, but action takes place during the correfoc none does it better than Barcelona. (Sunday 23). A parade of fi bre-glass For a crash course in Catalan folk dragons terrorises the city, breathing culture, it can’t be beat, from the fi re and fi lling the streets with smoke, castellers (human castles) to gegants accompanied by drummers and (giants), capgrossos (fatheads), impish devils with tridents spouting dancing and correfoc (fi re- showers of sparks, which they use to running). The gegants are sober, chase off anyone who gets too close. sedate fi gures 12 feet tall, usually It’s anarchic, exciting and not for the modelled on historical fi gures like faint-hearted, but it’s a lot of fun. Jaume I, or on noble animals, Wear old clothes made of natural principally eagles and lions. The fi bres, a hat and even a scarf to capgrossos, on the other hand, are protect your face. For the fi re-wary, mostly caricatures of public fi gures, there’s a dry run the preceding night, more irreverent and certainly more though it’s not half as enjoyable. mobile, and caper around the crowd With every passing year, La Mercè while the giants plod demurely on. relies more on cutting-edge The do love to play with technology, and the creative use of fi re and the Mercè has elaborate light and colour has become a fi rework displays, on the beach and in defi ning feature. The façade of

24 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Arts 25 nd The The (2 & 5 Sept) (6 Sept) is the tragic (1 & 4 Sept) is based rst composed in the Lohengrin Time Out BCN Guide

FESTIVAL DE BAYREUTH DE BAYREUTH FESTIVAL del Gran Teatre 1 - 6 September www.liceubarcelona.cat Barcelona is a Wagnerian city. The city. is a Wagnerian Barcelona operas of the great German romantic been performedcomposer have here fi since they were a even 19th century – there’s formed Association, in Wagnerian 1901. So the arrival in the city of the which Wagner Festival, Bayreuth From founded in 1876, is big news. the the 1st to the 6th of the September, orchestra, choir and soloists from will performBayreuth concert ofversions three of great Wagner’s operas at the Liceu opera house. Flying Dutchman retelling poeton the romantic Heine’s of a 17th-century folk tale: a Dutch seaman is condemned to wander the seas his ship until he can fi board on a faithful wife. sources recount to on medieval draws the legend of Lohengrin, a knight of ofthe Order Grail, and the Holy Tristan and Isolde story oflove the Cornish knight Isolde, and the Irish princess Tristan most passionate and Wagner’s statement of of the power romantic concerts Festival The Bayreuth love. the beginning at the Liceu will mark of the bicentenary celebrations of birth (1813-1883). Wagner’s Opera Bayreuth Festival ANDREW DE SANTIS DE ANDREW September 2012 , a blend rumba catalana nest street artists and amenco passion and Caribbean La Mercè is also about music: at all is also about La Mercè 21-24 Sept www.bcn.cat/merce LA MERCÈ 2012 of fl in Plaça with Los Amaya rhythms, Sant Jaume – and the on the 23rd brand sounds of new at Pomelo Very the 21st. del Fòrum on Friday the Parc for new a showcase festival, The BAM abroad, Catalonia and music from runs and features alongside the Mercè Catalan musicians Isaac Ulam, Joan as as well Colomo and Maria Rodés, internationalnew and acts – Sonny and Kap the Sunsets, Woodkid among others. Bambino, Barcelona’s city hall, the Ajuntament, Ajuntament, city hall, the Barcelona’s in the heart of for has a city, the old been for years some the showcase few fantastical and this ‘videomapping’, the Sagrada will also be year Familia and colourbathed in light during a guest by this year’s designed show Montreal.The city will also be city, sending its fi entertainers, as some ofcircus as well musicians who will be the many performing. for The main venues will be Montjuïc Castle these events and Ciutadella park. times of throughout and night, day hear not only music you’ll the city, the world. Catalonia, but around from will be There Nightlife Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN Boho bodega Up till the wee hours again: Bodega Saltó, the heart of Poble-sec’s late-night bar scene, is ten years old. By Ricard Martín

It’s only been ten years, but they’ve 100-year-old bodega ‘because we seen enough good times and late couldn’t stand to see it close down nights to fill a quarter of a century. when the owner retired.’ By a happy Time flows differently in Bodega Saltó, coincidence, at the same time Carrer a repurposed neighbourhood bodega Blesa and its continuation were turned that sums up everything that’s good into pedestrian streets, and Poble Sec about Poble-sec’s colourful, chaotic gained its own mini-Rambla. El Tigre nightlife. In the shade of the original is clear about one thing: ‘It was Lídia wooden wine barrels, I sit down for a who got this place off the ground.’ You chat with owner Jose Luís, ‘el Tigre’, as won’t see her unmistakable Rod he sharpens his conversational claws. Stewart-style hairdo behind the bar so There’s one thing I have to get out of often these days – she’s gone back to the way: why do they call him ‘Tiger’? teaching – but it was her contacts with ‘When we first opened we had a Dutch Barcelona’s bohemian underworld barman who was learning Spanish. that has made the bar a favourite One day, a friend came in and asked hangout for artists of every him where the toilet was – but he used description right from the start. a bit of local slang, “el tigre”. The answer came back: “Tiger’s at home BODEGA SALTÓ watching the Barça match”.’ The name C/Blesa, 36, Poble-sec. 7pm-2am stuck. In June 2002 José Luís and Tue-Thur; 7pm-2.30am Fri, Sat; noon- teacher Lídia López took over the midnight Sun.

26 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 27 28 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Listings September 2012 [email protected]

La Diada La Mercè Mona Hatoum

TUESDAY 11 21-24 SEPT UNTIL 24 SEPT Catalan National The festival of the Last chance to see Day is celebrated year sees four days work by this anglo- with concerts, of human castles, Palestinian artist marches and plenty fire-running and at the Fundació of flag-waving. concerts. Joan Miró.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 29 FREE Contemporary Cartographies. Drawing Exhibitions Thoughts. Until 28 Oct. Maps created by artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Information and sales: Tourist Information Points and www.barcelonaturisme.cat Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas Arxiu Fotogràfic de (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries Barcelona (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat., 11am-6pm. (Pl. Pons i Clerch, 2). M: Sun, 11am-2pm. 5 € adults. 2 € students (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 34 20. and pensioners. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and Agustí Centelles. A Photographic public holidays. Chronicle – The Thirties. Until 10 FREE Raval. Consuelo Bautista Feb. Photographs by renowned Catalan Until 26 January. More than fifty photojournalist Agustí Centelles, photographs documenting Barcelonaís documenting the last years of the Raval district, shot by renowned Spanish Republic, the Civil War and his photojournalist Consuelo Bautista years in exile. between 2004 and 2010. de Montjuïc Arxiu Històric de la (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya Ciutat de Barcelona (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. FREE Catalonia under Bombing (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Mon-Fri except public holidays, 10am- Urquinaona (L1-L4). T. 93 31 81 195. 7pm. Sun except public holidays, Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm. Closed Sun until 10.30am-2.30pm. Until 28 Oct. Marking 26 Sept. the 75th anniversary of the bombing Cu-Cut.Political Satire in raids of the Civil War, when the civilian Turbulent TImes. 1902-1912 Until population in cities and villages all over 31 Oct. To mark the centenary of the Catalonia became the victims of aerial shutting down of satirical magazine Cu- warfare. Cut!, the space that houses the city’s FREE Sala del Pati d’Armes – historical archive has put together an Snapshots of a Castle Mon-Sun exhibition that celebrates its mordant 10am-7pm. Photographs of Montjuïc humour and incisively satirical vision of Castle from the early 20th century. the world between 1902 and 1912. FREE Montjuïc, the Construction of a Castle. Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. Until 30 Sept. The history of Montjuïc CaixaForum and its castle. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 476 86 00. Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm. Wed, 10am- CCCB: Centre de Cultura 11pm. Sat, Sun, 10am-9pm.. Contemporània de FREE Towers and skyscrapers. From Babel to Dubai Until 9 Sept. Barcelona A journey through the history of tall buildings, from the Tower of Babel to (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). the giant skyscrapers of the 21st century. T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & public hols, FREE Wineries, Cooperatives + 11am-8pm. Closed Mon. 5 €. Reduced Until 14 Oct. Keys to entry for pensioners and students on understanding the monumental wine Wed (excl public holidays): 3,40 €. Free cellars, known as the ‘Cathedrals of for under 16s, & unemployed, Thur Wine’, built around Catalonia by 8-10pm & Sun 3-8pm. Modernista architects. Souvenir. Martin Parr, FREE Àngel Ferrant - Between Photography & Collectionism Until drawing and sculpture Until 28 Oct. 21 October. An entertaining exhibition Fifty works including drawings and of British photographer Martin Parr’s sculptures by Angel Ferrant, one of the collection of photographs and objects most important Spanish sculptors of related to tourism, including some of his the 20th century. own work.

30 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 CosmoCaixa Espai VolART-Fundació (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo Vila Casas (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 3 € (permanent and (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona temporary exhibitions). Reduced entry (L1-L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri, 2 €. First Sun of month: 5-8.30pm, Sat, 11am-2om & 5-8.30pm. free. Sun, 11am-2pm. 1 €; Reduced: 50¢. Epidemic! Until 10 February. Espai Volart 2 Daniel Enkaoua – This show explains the causes and Create/Believe 20 Sept-16 Dec. cyclical nature of epidemics, and how Paintings by French artist Daniel they have shaped the history of Enkaoua, a master of expressionist humanity. brushwork. Technorevolucion Until 6 May. Víctor Pérez-Porro – ‘The Colours Interactive exhibition that allows of made Shapes in my visitors to experience the evolution of Head’ 20 Sept-12 Dec. Works by this technology, with spaces dedicated to contemporary artist. nanotechnology, biotechnology, IT and cognitive sciences. FAD. Foment de les Arts i DHUB Museu de les Arts el Disseny Decoratives (Pl. dels Àngels, 5-6). M: Universitat (L1-L2). T. 93 443 75 20. Reception (. Av. Diagonal, hours: Mon-Thur, 10am-8pm. Fri, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T. 93 256 34 65. 10am-3pm. Closed Sun & public hols. Tue.-sun., 10am-6pm. 5 €. FadExpo – Best Design of the Year Permanent exhibition Mon-Sat, de 12 a 20 h. Until 22 September. The Year’s Best Design: Barcelona’s design foundation presents this year’s prize- DHUB Museu Tèxtil i de la winning projects and runners-up in Indumentària different design disciplines. (Palau Reial de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T. 93 256 34 65. Filmoteca de Catalunya Tue.-sun., 10am-6pm. 5 €. (Plaça Salvador Seguí, 1). M: Liceu (L3). Permanent exhibition T. 93 410 75 90. 4€. El Raval. The Image of The a DistrictTue-Sun, 4pm- DHUB. Museu El Molino 9pm. Until 11 Nov. The theatre (Vilà i Vilà, de Ceràmica 99) hosts Raval is a central district of Barcelona, celebrated (Palau Reial de burlesque shows, in novels, plays and films. Wednesday to Thursday Pedralbes, Avda at 6.30pm and at This exhibition explores Diagonal, 686). M: Palau 9.30pm (Sundays the history of the area Reial (L3). T. 93 256 34 6.30pm only) and its portrayal in film. 65. Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm. Public hols, 10am- 3pm. Closed Mon. 5€. Reduced: 3€. Fundació Alorda- Gerard Moliné. Clay: Design and Derksen Tradition. Until 24 Sept. Gerard Moliné is not a potter or ceramicist: he’s an (Aragó, 314). M: (L4). T. 93 272 industrial designer. This exhibition 62 50. By appt. 5 €. Reduced, 3 €. analyses his use of clay as a medium to Permanent exhibition reinterpret traditional forms and Contemporary art collection with experiment with new ones. provocative work from the Young British Artists (YBAs). Espai Mercè Sala (Diagonal Metro Station). M: Diagonal Fundació Antoni Tàpies (L3-L5). (Aragó, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia FREE Objects from the Museum. (L2-L3-L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue-Sun, DHUB Collections Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-7pm. 7 €. Students and 8.30pm. Until 21 Sept. pensioners, 5,60 €.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 31 Head, arms, legs, body. Until 4 Gordon Matta-Clark. Portfoli November. The Tàpies foundation has ‘Office Baroque’ Until 21 October. brought together 13 of the artist’s last The exhibition focuses on 46 works, focusing on the human body. photographs by Gordon Matta donated to the Macba last year by Harold Berg. Utopia is possible – ICSID. Fundació Francisco Eivissa, 1971 Until 20 Jan. Utopia is Godia Possible. Documentary material, photographs and films from the (Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- MACBA’s own collection, L3-L4). T. 93 272 31 80. Mon-Sun, 10am- commemorating the VII Congress of the 8pm. Closed Tue 5.50 €. International Council of Societies of Permanent exhibition Industrial Design (ICSID), and the issues it addressed, such as sustainability, participation, solidarity, still highly Fundació Joan Miró relevant today. (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya Le Corbusier i Jean Genet al Raval (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue-Sat, Until 21 October. Two opposing views 10am-8pm. Thu, 10am-9.30pm, Sun & of Barcelona in the 1930’s. On one hand, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed architect Le Corbusier, who promoted Mondays. 10 €. Espai 13, 2.50 €. his own Macià plan as means of Mona Hatoum / “Projecció” Until eradicating urban decay and social 24 September. Forty works created over deprivation. On the other, Jean Genet’s the last 20 years by Palestinian artist vision, a connoisseur of the street life of resident in London, Mona Hatoum. the Barrio Chino. Luis Claramunt. El viatge vertical Until 21 October. A broad selection of Fundació Suñol work by artist Luis Claramunt, from (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal painting, drawings and photographs to (L3-L5). T. 93 496 10 32 . Mon-Sat books. 4pm-8pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. Rita McBride. Oferta pública / 2 July - 31 August: Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm ‘Public Tender’ Until 24 September. & 2-8pm. Sat, 4-8pm. Closed 3 - 27 Rita McBride’s most recent work September. analyzes space and the relationships of Fifth anniversary of the Josep objects to modern architecture and Suñol collection 28 Sept-9 Mar. industrial design. Her thought- Exhibition to mark the Suñol provoking sculptures include a car made Foundation’s fifth anniversary, with of rattan, a marble pipe and leaves made works by more than 70 artists including of Murano glass. Picasso, Dalí, Tàpies, Warhol, Boetti and Roberto Rossellini. ‘Filmant Man Ray. Beaubourg’ Until 21 October. In the late 70s, Rossellini made a documentary about the Pompidou Centre in Jardí Botànic . Alongside the documentary, you (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya can see a film on the production process (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Sept: and discussions with the filmmaker at daily, 10am-7pm. Oct–March; daily, the Cannes Festival of 1977. 10am-6pm. Botanical Gardens Permanent collection of plants from the MEAM: Museu Europeu Mediterranean and around the world. d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. MACBA. Museu d’Art 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 7 €. Contemporani Reductions 5 €. Permanent collection Unlike (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat other contemporary art museums, the (L1-L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 MEAM only exhibits figurative, realist 08 10. Dl., Wed, Thu & Fri, 11am-8pm. or hyperrealist works. Sun 10am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, Art of the Hard Rock 11 Sept-7 10am-3pm. Tues. closed, except public Oct. Forty artworks and 65 iconic holidays. Whole museum ticket, 8 € objects from the history of the rock, to (reduced 6,5 €). Single exhibition ticket, celebrate the 15th anniversary of the 6 € (reduced, 4,50 €). Hard Rock Café.

32 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Saló del Tinell Indianes. Els MIBA. Museu d’Idees i orígens de la Barcelona industrial, Invents de Barcelona 1736-1847 Until 16 December. The mass-production of calico prints or (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 ‘indianes’ galvanised the economic life of 79 30. Tue-Fri., 10am-2pm & 4-7pm. Barcelona. Sat, 11am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, 10am-2pm. 7 €. Permanent exhibition MUHBA Park Güell (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 256 21 22. From 1 April until 30 Sept: Mon- MNAC: Museu Nacional Sun 10am-8pm. From 1 Oct until 31 d’Art de Catalunya March: Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. 2€ Permanent exhibition (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays, MUHBA Refugi 307 10am-2.30pm. 10 €. Temporary (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Jaume I (L1-L4). exhibitions: consult museum website. T. 93 256 21 00. Sat. & Sun., 10am-2pm, by Permanent collection appointment. Public holidays, closed. 3 €. Permanent exhibition MUHBA El Call (Placeta de Manuel Ribé). M: Liceu (L3) MUHBA Santa Caterina & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. Tue- (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). T. Fri, 11am-2pm. Sat, Sun, 11am-7pm. 93 256 21 22. Mn-Sat., 10am-2pm. Sun. & Sun and Mon before public holidays, Public holidays, closed. 10am-2pm. Closed Monday. 2 €. FREE Permanent exhibition Salomó ben Adret (1235- 1310). The Triumph of an Orthodoxy Until 31 December. Salomó MUHBA Vil·la Joana. ben Adret, also known as the Rashba, Casa Verdaguer was a Catalan Jewish leader and Rabbi at the main synagogue of Barcelona (Ctra de l’Església, 104. Vallvidrera). T. during the late 13th and early 14th 93 204 78 05. Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. centuries. Tue-Wed, groups (by appt) only . Closed Mon. MUHBA Monestir Permanent exhibition de Pedralbes Museu Barbier-Mueller (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina d’Art Precolombí Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34 . Tues-Fri, de 10am-5pm. Sun, 10am- (Montcada, 14). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 7pm. Sun, 10am-8pm (Sun, free after 310 45 16. Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm. Sat, 3pm). Sun and Mon before public Sun, 11am-8pm. Public holidays 11am- holidays, 10am-2pm. Closed Monday. 3pm. 3,50 €. 7 €. 4 € groups of more than 10. The Inca Trail Until 31 Dec. An in- Reduced entry: 5 €. Under 16s, free depth look at the culture and history of entry. one of the great Pre-Colombian Paintings from the Sant Miquel civilisations. Chapel Until 31 December. Paintings from the chapel of Sant Miquel, a 14th- century Gothic masterpiece. Museu Blau (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. MUHBA Museu 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sun & public d’Història de Barcelona holidays, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Museum & Botanical Gardens, 7 €. (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 Aliens, la invasió de les espècies 21 22. Tues - Sat, 10 - 19 h. Sun, 10am- exòtiques Until 31 Jan. Aliens: 8pm (Sun free after 3pm). Sun and Mon Invasion of Exotic Species. How do before public holidays, 10am-2pm. invasive species arrive in an ecosystem, Closed Mon. 7 €. Under-16s free. and what are the consequences?

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 33 Espai Terra: The Catalonia You Know Until 31 Jan. Photographs of Museu Marítim remote areas, unusual land formations, de Barcelona flora, fauna and meteorology – everything that relates to the geography (Av. de les Drassanes s/n). M: Drassanes of the Catalan-speaking regions. (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. Mon - Sun, 10am- 8pm. 2,50 €. Due to ongoing renovations, only temporary exhibitions Museu de Badalona are open. (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Titanic. The Exhibition Until 30 Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 September. 12 €. Under 14s: 5 €. Travel 384 17 50. Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm & back in time to experience the story of 5-8pm Sun & public holidays, 10am- the Titanic, from its design and 2pm. 6 €. construction to its final resting place, FREE Baetulo, Roman City Tue- almost 4 km under the North Atlantic. Fri, 5-8pm, Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. Until 31 Dec. A display of objects that were in daily use in Badalona more Museu de la Música than 2,000 years ago. (Padilla, 155). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Mon-Sat., 10am-6pm. Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Museu Egipci Tues. 4 €. Reduced 3 €. Free admission (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia Sun afternoon. (L2-L3-L4). T. 93 488 01 88. Mon-Sun Permanent exhibition 10am-8pm. Sun, 10am-2pm. Adults 11 €. Reduced, 8 €. Permanent exhibition Museu del Modernisme Català Museu de l’Eròtica (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- (La Rambla, 96, bis). M: Catalunya L3-L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon-Sat, (L1-L3). T. 93 318 98 65. June-Sept: 10am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm. Oct-May: Mon- 10am-2pm. 10 €. Sun,10am-8pm. Adults 9 €. Reduced Permanent exhibition 8 €. Permanent exhibition Museu Olímpic i de Museu Frederic Marès l’Esport Joan Antoni (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) & Samaranch Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays, (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: 11am-8pm. Closed Mon except public Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 292 53 79. holidays. 4.20 €. Tues - Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona- holidays, de 10 a 14.30 h. 4.50 €. París. A Road to Freedom: Bronze Students, 2.60 €. Under-14s free. Over- Until 30 September. Work by painter, 65s free. sculptor and engraver Xavier Vilató, Cobi: Twenty Years On Until 2 Picasso’s nephew . Sept. As part of the celebrations commemorating the 20th anniversary of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, this Museu del Futbol Club exhibition pays homage to the games’ Barcelona cheeky mascot Cobi, created by Javier Mariscal. (Arístides Maillol, s/n. Estadi FCB. III International Award for Gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. Watercolours and Other Works on 902 18 99 00. From 2 April until 7 Oct: Paper. Theme: Sport 6 Sept-21Dec. Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm. Sun & public Works from the award shortlist. holidays, 10am-2.30pm. tour available until one hour before museum closing time. 23 €. Children 17 €.Children under 6 years old and FCB (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). T. members, free. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. Permanent exhibition. Closed Mon (except public holidays). 11

34 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 35 € (combined ticket for museum + temporary exhibition). Temporary exhibition only: 6 €. Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona- París, a Road to Freedom: People Until 30 Sept. Work by Picasso’s nephew painter, sculptor and engraver Xavier Vilató. (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (L3-

L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat, 10am- RUANO DAVID 7pm. Sun & public holidays, 10am-2.30pm. MARÍA PAGÉS The virtuoso FREE Sala 4 Famine Alert Until 2 flamenco dancer and Sept. an exhibition on the causes of choreographer presents her famine in Africa. new show, ‘Utopia’ at the Teatre FREE Sala 2 Barcelona Multiverse Until 11 Sept. Photographs mix real Victòria, based on the work of and imaginary visions of Barcelona’s Brazilian architect Niemeyer. most famous landmarks. FREE Sala 3 Ferran Adrià i El Bulli – FREE Número 3. Works from the Risk, Freedom and Creativity Until Centre des Arts Plastiques 3 Jan. The creative genius of Ferran (France) Until 30 Sept. Photographs Adrià, probably the most influential and videos examine the relationship chef in the world, whose talent and flair between machines and people. for innovation have turned 21st- century gastronomy upside-down. FREE Sala 4.Sant Joan de Déu Hospital: Science and Humanism Theatre 17-24 Sept . The work of children’s hospital does with young patients. FREE Salas 1 & 2 Photographs Artèria Paral·lel from the New York Times (Av. Paral·lel, 62). T. 93 324 84 92. www. Magazine 28 Sept-2 Dec. An arteria.com. M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Ticket examination of the nature of office open Wed & Thur, 4-8.30pm, Fri photography at crucial moment in the 5-8.30pm. Sat, 4-10pm, Sun 3-8.30pm . development of the printed press. Advance booking: www.arteriaentradas. FREE Sala 2 Pilarín Bayés, 50 com, 902 33 22 11 & Servicaixa. Years of Drawing for everyone Ennio Marchetto Mon-Fri, 8.30pm. Until 11 Sept.A retrospective on the life Sat, 7 & 10pm. Sun, 7.30pm. No and work of draughtswoman and performance 12, 17, 18, 19 & 25 Sept. illustrator Pilarín Bayés. 18-28 €. 6-30 Sept. Ennio Marchetti uses his unique take on drag to transform himself into 100 icons La Pedrera of popular culture, from Marilyn (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença Monroe to Lady Gaga. (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). T. 902 400 973. Mar-Oct: Mon-Sun, 9am-8pm (last entry: 7.30pm). €16.50. Reduced entry, Teatre Gaudí Barcelona €14.85. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T. 93 FREE Llorens Artigas. Man of Fire. 603 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm. Until 2 com. M: Sagrada Família (L2-L5) & September. More than 50 works by Josep Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Ticket offices Llorens Artigas, one of the most open one hour before performance starts. influential names in European ceramics. Advance bookings: Servicaixa, 902 33 22 11 & www.servicaixa.es. David y Sara by Ever Blanchet. Tue & Virreina Centre Wed, 8.45pm. 18 €. From 7 August. In de la Imatge Spanish. A love story set in a time of fear, dogma, repression, uncertainty, (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 betrayal and cruelty. 316 10 00. Tue-Sun, noon-8pm. Tu digues que l’estimes by Ivan

36 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Campillo. Thur-Sat, 8.45pm. Sun, 6pm. directed by doyen of the Catalan dance 18 €. 3 August-30 September. In scene, Cesc Gelabert and filmmaker Catalan. Comedy about life as a couple, Isaki Lacuesta, which combines live in which a chain of mix-ups lead to a dance with projected images. hilarious denouement. Poble Espanyol Teatre Victòria (Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). T. (Paral·lel, 67). T. 93 329 91 89. www. 93 508 63 00. www.poble-espanyol.com. teatrevictoria.com. M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). Ticket offices open Tue-Sun, from 5pm Embrossa’t by Teia Moner. Dir: Teia until performance begins. Advance Moner i Cristina Bertran. Sun, bookings: Servicaixa, 902 33 22 11 & 12.30pm. 2-30 Sept. www.servicaixa.com. Dance for all the family based on the Bésame mucho. The Musical visual poetry of Catalan artist Joan of Passion Dir: Yolena Alonso.Tue & Brossa. Fri, 9.30pm. Sat, 7 & 10pm. Sun, 7pm (15 Aug, special performance at 6pm). 19-40 €. 19 July - 2 Sept. In Spanish. Teatre Gaudí Barcelona Musical spectacle set in a vibrant (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T. 93 neighbourhood of La Havana, where 603 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. two young lovers experience the highs com. M: Sagrada Família (L2-L5) & and lows of romance. Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Advance Stomp by Luke Cresswell & Steve booking: Servicaixa, 902 33 22 11 & McNicholas. Tue & Sun, 6.30pm, Wed & www.servicaixa.es. Thu 8.30pm, Fri 10pm, Sat 6.30 & 10pm, Lulú, Primera Nit by Roberto G. Mon 10 Sept, 6.30pm, Wed 12 Sept: no Alonso. Fri & Sat., 10.30pm. Sun 8pm performance. 27.50-35€. 5-16 Sept. 18 €. Until 30 Sept. An explosive combination of percussion, Roberto G. Alonso investigates the music, humour and dance has made hidden desires and thought-processes Stomp a global phenomenon. of our society, hypocritically disguised as unmentionable secrets. Happy Ha Ha Dir: Mercedes Boronat. Sat 6pm. Sun 12pm. 9€. 30 Sept & 30 Dance Dec. Dance for all the family based on the visual poetry of Catalan artist Joan Gran Teatre del Liceu Brossa. (La Rambla, 51-59). T. 93 485 99 00 . www.liceubarcelona.cat. M: Liceu (L3). Advance booking: www.liceubarcelona. Teatre Victòria cat, servicaixa, 902 33 22 11 & www. (Paral·lel, 67). T. 93 329 91 89. www. servicaixa.com. teatrevictoria.com. M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Alvin Ailey. American Dance Advance bookings: Servicaixa, 902 33 Theater / Festa Barocca - Love 22 11 & www.servicaixa.com. Stories - Revelations Thu & Fri, María Pagés, Utopía 9pm. 23 & 8pm, Sat 17 & 9,30pm. 13.50-86.25€. 24 Sept: 7pm. 30 Sept: 6.30pm. From 24 13-15 Sept. to 39 €. From 19 until 30 Sept. The ambassadors of Afro-American Audacious, innovative and technically dance around the world arrive at the impressive, María Pagés is a key figure Liceu with a programme that is also a on the contemporary flamenco scene. manifesto of their personal style, full of ‘Utopia’ is a declaration of principles, energy and theatrical imagination. born of her admiration for the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Mercat de les Flors (Lleida, 59). T. 93 426 18 75. www. INFORMATION mercatflors.cat. M: Espanya (L1-L3- FGC) i Poble Sec (L3). Ticket office opens AND SALES one hour before perfomance. Creative capsules/Cesc Gelabert & Isaki Lacuesta/Trace Fri & Sat, Tourist Information Points and 8.30pm. Sun 6pm 12 €. 28-30 Sept. www.barcelonaturisme.cat Trace is a contemporary dance show

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 37 the Palau Dalmases, one of the Born’s Day by day most beautiful mansions. Information and sales: Instrumental Tourist Information Points and 9pm www.barcelonaturisme.cat Art of the Guitar Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 21€. Saturday 1 Spanish guitar concert. 9pm Al fresco Manuel González: Masters of 7.30pm the Spanish Guitar Palau de la FREE La Festa Catalana Plaça de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Catedral. Traditional Catalan culture: 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 25- 29€. acrobatic human castles and dancing Spanish guitar concert. giants. For more information, see www. bcn.cat/barcelonacultura. Jazz From 9pm 9.30pm. Concert 10pm Magical Nights at the Casa Summer Nights at La Pedrera Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig 2012 (Provença, 261-265). M: de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). Tue-Sat. 29€. Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). Until 23 Sept. Discover the enchanting Thur, Fri & Sat, 25€. A rare beauty of Antoni Gaudí’s most opportunity to stroll under the arches mysterious building by night. of the Espai Gaudí, admiring the unique architectural setting, before going up to the roof terrace for a live Classical music jazz concert - all the while enjoying a 7pm glass of cava. FREE Banda Municipal de Barcelona at the Festa Major de Sants Parc de l’Espanya Industrial Tours (Parc de l’Espanya Industrial). M: 9am-7.30pm Sants Estació (L3-L5). Sagrada Família (, 401). M: Sagrada Família (L2-L5). 13€. Guided 8pm tour: 17€. The Flying Dutchman Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). 10am-7pm M: Liceu (L3). 25-280€. The orchestra, Palau Güell Palau Güell (Nou de la choir and soloists of the Bayreuth Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Festival perform a concert version of Liceu (L3). 10€. Reductions, 8€. Visit Wagner’s opera. the palace built by Antoni Gaudí as the residence of the Güell family at the end of the 19th century. The tour takes in Electronica the whole building, from the stables in 12.30am the basement to the roof terrace, Nitsa Club: Pional live! + Dj Fra visiting the mezzanine, the splendid Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: reception rooms, the bedrooms and the Paral·lel (L2-L3). attic. Folk traditions Sunday 2 6pm FREE Plaça de la Catedral. Classical music 1& 8 Sept. Traditional Catalan dance. 7pm Lohengrin Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Flamenco 25-280€. The choir and orchestra of 9.30pm the Bayreuth Festival presents a Flamenco Nights at the Palau concert version of Wagner’s opera Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume ‘Lohengrin’, in which a Graal knight I (L4). Mon-Sun. 20€. Flamenco show will defend the honour of a wrongly with dance, guitar, cante and cajón, at accused lady.

38 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Llacuna (L4). 10.30am (in Catalan) & Football 12.30am (in Spanish). A guided tour of 8pm 19th century Barcelona, as reflected in League fixture. FC Barcelona the tombs and gravestones of the city’s vs Camp Nou (Aristides great and good. Maillol, s/n). M: Collblanc (L5). La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). Instrumental 16.50€. Reductions 14.85€. Visit the 9pm essential spaces inside Gaudí’s Ekaterina Záytseva: Masters masterpiece. Includes visits to the of the Spanish Guitar Santa Maria courtyard, the roof terrace, the Espai del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu Gaudí (upper floor), an apartment that (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. Spanish guitar recreates bourgeois life in Barcelona at concert. the beginning of the 20th century, and the exhibition hall. Rock 9.30pm Monday 3 Jack White Sant Jordi Club (Passeig Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L3 & 5). Flamenco 35€. The male half of the White Stripes 9.30pm presents his new solo album Flamenco Nights at the Palau Blunderbuss in Barcelona. Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Sun. 20€. Tours 10.30am Rock FREE Guided tour of Poblenou 11pm cemetery (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de la

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 39 are the Welsh indie-pop band Los Campesinos!, who last year released their fourth and latest album, ‘Hello Sadness’ (2011). Before them, the london folk-pop quintet Dry The River, will present their debut, ‘Shallow bed’ (2012). Tours La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). 16.50€. Reductions 14.85€ Wednesday 5 Classical music 7pm THE ZOO IS 120! Barcelona Lohengrin Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Zoo is celebrating its 120th Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 25-280€. anniversary, with open days on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th, with Instrumental activities for all the family. 9pm Ekaterina Záytseva: Masters of the Spanish Guitar Santa Maria Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). The del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu city’s wildest Monday night party – get (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. Spanish guitar ready to rock and roll. concert. Tuesday 4 World music Caníbal Sound System Sala Apolo Classical music (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel 8pm (L2-L3). Wed, 12.30am. Late night The Flying Dutchman Gran party with a world music soundtrack. Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 25-280 €. Performance of Wagner’s opera. Thursday 6 Classical music Indie 7pm Midnight Tristan und Isolda Gran Teatre Crappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). (L3). 25-280€. Concert version of Indie pop & electronica for a younger Wagner’s last opera performed by the crowd. soloists, choir and orchestra of the Bayreuth Festival. Instrumental 9pm Electronica Art de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ 1am Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, Boombox Sala Apolo (Nou de la 29). 21€. Spanish guitar concert. Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Pop Jazz 21 h 9.30pm Los Campesinos! + Dry the River Summer Nights at La Pedrera: Music Hall ( 2-4). Nelson Project (Provença, 261-265). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). 15-20 €. Double M: Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). appointment with a couple of bands from 25€. The barcelonin octet runs through the independent music scene of the UK in the work of sax player and composer Joe this central venue. The stars of the night Henderson.

40 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). Friday 7 30-45€. The show that brings the exhilarating world of flamenco to Instrumental Barcelona. 9pm Art de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, Folk traditions 29). 21€. 6pm FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral. 9pm Traditional Catalan dance. Manuel González: Masters of Information: www.bcn.cat. the Spanish Guitar Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 25-29€. Instrumental Spanish guitar concert. 9pm Art de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, Jazz 29). 21€. 9.30pm Summer Nights at La Pedrera: 21.15 h Nelson Project (Provença, 261-265). Ekaterina Záytseva: Masters M: Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). of the Spanish Guitar Església de 25€. Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). Cinema 21€. 8pm Mecal Air 2012 Poble Espanyol (Av. de Pop Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: 9pm Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). 5.60€. Short Single + Renaldo & Clara Sala films and music in the open air. Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 12€ in advance. 15€. Exquisite folk-pop with groups Single Tours and Renaldo & Clara. From 8.30-10.30pm The Eternal Banquet. Food in Ancient Egypt Museu Egipci Sport (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia FREE Barcelona 24-Hour Motor (L2-L3-L4). 35€. Book in advance 93 Racing Circuit de Catalunya 488 01 88. Travel back in time on a (Carretera.de Granollers a Parets Km 2). thematic journey through the galleries Montmeló. 8 & 9 Sept. Information: of the museum, to discover the secrets www.circuitcat.com. of Ancient Egyptian cuisine, ending on the museum terrace with a chance to taste dishes from the time of the Sunday 9 Pharoahs. Guided visit in Spanish or Catalan. Flamenco 9.30pm Ópera y Flamenco Teatre Saturday 8 Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). 30-45€. €. This Al fresco innovative show mixes opera, the 7.30pm spanish tradition of ‘zarzuela’ –a FREE La Festa Catalana Plaça de la spanish opera for the working-classes, Catedral. Traditional Catalan culture: with spoken parts– and flamenco human castles and falcons. For more music. information, see www.bcn.cat/ barcelonacultura. Folk traditions Noon Flamenco FREE Sardanas Plaça Eivissa. M: 9.30pm Horta (L5). Traditional Catalan dance Gran Gala Flamenco 2012 at Horta neightbourhood. Information: Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la www.bcn.cat.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 41 Instrumental Tours 9pm Sagrada Família (Mallorca, 401). M: Pedro Javier González: Sagrada Família (L2-L5). 13€. Guided Masters of the Spanish Guitar tour: 17€ Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 10€. (L4). 21€. Spanish guitar concert. Reduced, 8€. Sport Tuesday 11 FREE Barcelona 24-Hour Motor Racing Circuit de Catalunya (Crta.de Al fresco Granollers a Parets Km 2). Montmeló. 12.30 h 8 & 9 Sept. Information: www. FREE Castells (Plaça del Setge de circuitcat.com. 1714). Human towers in the Poble Sec district to celebrate Catalan National Poblenou Run Poblenou. M: Bac de Day. Roda (L2). Start: Carrer d’Espronceda/ Perú. Information: www.avgranvia.com. Classical music Triatló de la Dona Parc de l’Espanya 7pm Industrial. M: Sants Estació (L3-L5). Mas i Mas Festival: Orquestra Information: www.triatlondelamujer- Simfònica de Tarragona barcelona.es. ‘Camerata XXI’ (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1- L4). 15-54€. A performance of works Tours by catalan composers such as Frederic 11am (Catalan) & 11.15am Mompou, Ricard Lamote de Grignon, (Spanish) Eduard Toldrà & Xavier FREE Ruta pel Cementiri de Montsalvatge will celebrate Catalonia’s Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, National Day. 56-58). Guided tour of this huge cemetery, making its way up the side of Montjuïc to learn about some of the Festa major significant figures buried here, and Noon discover some striking works of FREE Castells. Festa Major de funerary art. Vallcarca (Plaça Lesseps). M: Lesseps (L3). Human towers. Monday 10 Indie Flamenco Midnight 9.30pm Crappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de Flamenco Nights at the Palau la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I Night of indie pop and electronica. (L4). Mon-Sun. 20€. Wednesday 12 Instrumental 9pm Al fresco Pedro Javier González: Magical Nights at the Casa Masters of the Spanish Guitar Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig Església de Santa Maria del Pi de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). Tue-Sat. 29€. (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. Rock FREE! DOWNLOAD 11pm Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de la TIME OUT BCN Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). The GUIDE city’s wildest Monday night party – get ready to rock and roll.

42 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Tours 9am-7.30pm Sagrada Família (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família (L2-L5). 13€. Guided tour: 17€ Friday 14 Cinema 8pm Mecal Air 2012 Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). 5.60€ Short films and music al fresco.

DANCE IS BACK Flamenco On 28, 29 and 30 of 9pm September, the Mercat de les Capullo de Jerez Sala Apolo (Nou de Flors opens a new season with la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). ‘Indisciplines’ – a show 7pm promoting dialogue between Ópera y Flamenco Teatre dance and other disciplines. Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1-L3) . 30-45€. Until 23 Sept. Discover the enchanting beauty of Antoni Gaudí’s most Instrumental mysterious building by night. 9pm Art de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, Tours 29). 21€. Spanish guitar concert. 10am-8pm Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: 9pm Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 10€. Barcelona 4 Guitars Església de Reduced, 8€. Visit all the main spaces Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, inside this stunning building. 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. Spanish guitar concert. World music 12.30am Pop Caníbal Sound System Sala Apolo 9pm (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel Serrat & Sabina (Pg. (L2-L3). Late night party with a world Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1-L3- music soundtrack. FGC). 30-185€. Joaquín Sabina & Joan Manuel Serrat, two hugely popular veteran singer-songwriters, revive their Thursday 13 onstage partnership, swapping songs Instrumental and wrinkly repartee. 9pm Manuel González: Masters of Tours the Spanish Guitar Palau de la Música 8.30-10.30pm Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: The Eternal Banquet. Food in Urquinaona (L1-L4). 25-29€. Ancient Egypt Museu Egipci (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). 35€. Book in advance 93 Pop 488 01 88. Travel back in time on a 12.30am thematic journey through the galleries Cupcake Sala Apolo (Nou de la of the museum, to discover the secrets Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). of Ancient Egyptian cuisine, ending on Eighties music a go-go. the museum terrace with a chance to

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 43 taste dishes from the time of the (Pere IV, 129-131). M: Poblenou (L4). Pharoahs. Guided visit in Spanish or 16 Sept. Human towers. Catalan. Tours Saturday 15 10.30am (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish) Al fresco FREE Ruta pel Cementiri de 7.30pm Poblenou (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna FREE La Festa Catalana (Plaça de la (L4). A guided tour through 19th- Catedral). Sardanas & falcons. century Barcelona, as reflected in the Information: www.bcn.cat/ mausoleums and monuments dedicated barcelonacultura. to its most illustrious citizens.

From noon to midnight Hipnotik Festival 2012 Centre de Monday 17 Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1- Flamenco L3). 20€. In advance: 15€. Barcelona’s 9.30pm hip-hop scene take centre stage at Flamenco Nights at the Palau Hipnotik: 12 hours of music, face-offs, Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume graffiti, break dance, workshops, I (L4). Mon-Sun. 20€. graphic design and audiovisual media. Rock Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou Instrumental de la Rambla, 113). M: 9pm Filmoteca Paral·lel (L2-L3). Dl., Manuel González: de Catalunya 11pm. The city’s wildest Masters of the Spanish (Pl. Salvador Monday night party – Guitar Església de Santa Seguí) dedicates get ready to rock and Maria del Pi (Cardenal September to Quebec, roll. Casañas, 16). M: Liceu Ray Bradbury, José Luís (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. García Berlanga and Samuel Fuller. www. Tuesday 18 Pop filmoteca.cat Indie 9pm Midnight Kimbra Sala Apolo (Nou de la Crappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 20€. (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel The New Zealand singer presents her (L2-L3). Night of indie pop and new album ‘Vows’. electronica. Sunday 16 Instrumental 9pm Al fresco Art de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ 2.30pm Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, FREE Castells Ronda Sant Antoni M: 29). 21€. Sant Antoni (L2). Human towers. Tours Sport Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). 33 Cursa de La Mercè Various M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 10€. venues.Barcelona’s runners take to the Reduced, 8€. Visit all the main spaces most emblematic streets of Barcelona to inside this stunning building, designed celebrate the city’s fiesta. Information: by Gaudí. www.bcn.cat. Wednesday 19 Festa major Noon. Festival FREE Castells. Festa Major del Festival Àsia Various venues. 19-24 Poblenou Parc Central del Poblenou Sept. Enjoy all aspects of Asian culture

44 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 as the Asia Festival returns with a vast array of activities, with shows from Pop China, Japan, India and Pakistan, as well 12.30am as artistic activities presented by the Cupcake Sala Apolo (Nou de la Asian community of Barcelona and Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Catalonia. More information www. festivalasia.es. 9.30pm Norah Jones L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Flamenco Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 40- 9.30pm 65€. €. Little Broken Hearts is the latest Gran Gala FlamencoTeatre album from Norah Jones, the popular Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: singer with the mysterious voice. Catalunya (L1-L3). 30-45€. Friday 21 World music 12.30am Al fresco Caníbal Sound System Sala Apolo 7.30pm (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel FREE La Festa Catalana Plaça de la (L2-L3). Late night party with a world Catedral. 21-24 Sept. Various music soundtrack. performances of Catalan traditions. Thursday 20 Cinema 8pm Festival Mecal Air 2012 Poble Espanyol (Av. de Festival Àsia 2012 Various venues. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: 19-24 Sept. Information: www. Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). 5.60€. Open-air festivalasia.es. short films and music.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 45 Electronica Saturday 22 12.30am Nitsa Club Sala Apolo (Nou de la Al fresco Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 10am-7pm Electronic sounds from Spanish & FREE ’s 120th international DJs. anniversary , s/n). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 Festa major 67 80. Free access to all areas of All day long Barcelona Zoo, to see the hundreds of La Mercè species that live there, as well as special Various venues. 21-24 Sept. Barcelona’s attractions created by Théâtre de la annual citywide festival. Fire-running, Toupine, workshops and many other dance, human towers, sardanas, giants, activities for all the family. masks, fire-breathing beasts; cutting- edge street entertainers and circus 7.30pm performers at Ciutadella Park & FREE La Festa Catalana (Plaça de la Montjuïc Castle; projections on the City Catedral). 21-24 Sept. Various activities Hall’s façade; a light show at the as part of Barcelona’s citywide festival. Sagrada Família, concerts & music More information: www.bcn.cat/ from around the world, and the BAM barcelonacultura. new music festival. Information: www. bcn.cat/merce Classical music 7pm Festival Mozart: rèquiem d’ombres Palau de Festival Àsia 2012 Various venues. la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 19-24 Sept. Information: www. 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 12-65€. festivalasia.es Enrico Onofri conducts a performance of one of the best-known works in the classical canon: Mozart’s Requiem. Stage Instrumental & visual design by Catalan theatre 9pm company Els Comediants. Art de Guitarra. ‘Flamenco & Classic’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 21€. Spanish guitar Festa major concert. Festa Major de La MercèVarious venues. 21-24 Sept. Information: www. Sport bcn.cat/merce. 101 CSIO - Fei Nations Cup Promotional League Final Reial Festival Club de Polo Barcelona (Av. Doctor Festival Àsia 2012 Various venues. Marañón, 17-31). M: Zona Universitaria 19-24 Sept. Information: www. (L3). 20-23 Sept. International festivalasia.es. showjumping competition. Information: www.csiobarcelona.com Folk traditions 6.30pm Tour FREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). From 8.30-10.30pm 22 & 29 Sept. Traditional Catalan The Eternal Banquet. Food in dance. Information: www.bcn.cat. Ancient Egypt Museu Egipci (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). 35€. Book in advance 93 Rock 488 01 88. Travel back in time on a 8pm thematic journey through the galleries The TCB Band & Denis Jale + of the museum, to discover the secrets Augie Burr Sala Apolo (Nou de la of Ancient Egyptian cuisine, ending on Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). the museum terrace with a chance to Elvis Presley’s backing band from 1969 taste dishes from the time of the until 1977, led by virtuoso guitar player Pharoahs. Guided visit in Spanish or James Burton, will play once more the Catalan. classics that defined Elvis’ latter years.

46 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Sunday 23 Festival Festival Àsia 2012 Various venues. Al fresco 19-24 Sept. Information: www. 10am-7pm festivalasia.es. FREE Barcelona Zoo’s 120th anniversary Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Folk traditions Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 11.30am 67 80. Barcelona Zoo opens its doors to FREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). visitors of all ages, to celebrate its 120th Traditional Catalan dance. Information: birthday. www.bcn.cat.

7.30pm FREE La Festa Catalana (Plaça de la Football Catedral). Various activities as part of League fixture. FC Barcelona - Barcelona’s citywide festival. More Granada FC Camp Nou (Aristides information: www.bcn.cat/ Maillol, s/n). M: Collblanc (L5) barcelonacultura. Monday 24 Festa major Noon Al fresco FREE Castells (Plaça de Sant Jaume). 10am-7pm M: Jaume I (L4) Human towers. FREE Barcelona Zoo’s 120th anniversary Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). All day long M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/Vila Festa Major de La Mercè Various Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 67 80. venues. 21-24 Sept. Information www. Barcelona Zoo opens its doors to visitors bcn.cat/merce. of all ages, to celebrate its 120th birthday.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 47 Festa major 12.30pm FREE Castells (Plaça de Sant Jaume). M: Jaume I (L4). Human towers.

All day long Festa Major de La Mercè Various venues. 21-24 Sept. Barcelona’s annual citywide festival: giants, music, fire- running, dance... Information: www. bcn.cat/merce Rock 11pm Nasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). The

TERRY LINKE TERRY city’s wildest Monday night party – get ready to rock and roll. VIENNA PHILHARMONIC On 29 Sept, the world-famous Vienna Philharmonic plays Brahms’ Tuesday 25 second and fourth symphonies Flamenco at the Palau de la Música, 9.30pm conducted by Daniel Gatti. Flamenco Nights at the Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). 20€. Flamenco show with dance, 7.30pm guitar, cante and cajón, at one of the FREE La Festa Catalana (Plaça de la Born’s most beautiful mansions. Catedral). Information: www.bcn.cat/ barcelonacultura. Instrumental 9pm Al fresco Art de Guitarra. ‘Aranjuez’ FREE Festival Àsia al CCCB Centre Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona 29). 21€. Spanish guitar concert. (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). Bian Lian acrobats and masks from China, Kathak dancers, Korean Tours percussion and dance troupe Noreum La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Machi, and discover why the fame of the Provença (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). Gochag Askarov & Mugham ensemble 16,50€. Reduced, 14,85€. has spread far beyond Azerbaijan. Information: www.festivalasia.es Wednesday 26 Classical music Fira 12.30am 11am-8pm FREE L’OBC a la Mercè. Orquestra 52 Saló Nàutic Internacional de Simfònica de Barcelona i Barcelona (Moll Espanya, Nacional de Catalunya (Avinguda 1). M: Barceloneta (L4). 26-30 de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). The September. Information: www. OBC joins the celebration of the Mercé salonnautico.com. festival with an open air concert featuring popular classics. Instrumental 9pm Festa Xavier Coll. Masters of the 6.30pm Spanish Guitar Església de Santa FREE Sardanas (Pl. de la Mercè). M: Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Drassanes (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 24 Sept. Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 21€. Spanish Traditional Catalan dance. guitar concert.

48 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 Singer-songwriters Folk traditions 9pm 6.30pm José Luis Perales (Palau de la FREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral) Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 22 & 29 Sept. Traditional Catalan dance. 18-24€. The Spanish singer-songwroter presents a new album (‘Calle Soledad’) and looks back on his 40-year career. Rock 8.30pm Sharon Van Etten La [2] de Apolo Thursday 27 (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Sharon Van Etten has worked Pop with artists like The National and Bon 9pm Iver: she hones her own folk-rock style Miguel Bosé Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. on solo album ‘Tramp’. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1-L3- FGC). 30-180€. €. The eternally popular Spanish singer presents his greatest Sunday 30 hits: PaPitwo. Classical music 12.30am 9pm Cupcake Sala Apolo (Nou de la Zoran Dukic, guitarra Palau de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Dj., . Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Eighties music a go-go. 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 25-29€. Works by Albéniz, Tàrrega, Telemann Friday 28 & Piazzola. Cinema Festa major 8pm Noon Mecal Air 2012 Poble Espanyol (Av. de FREE Castells. Festa Major de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Sarrià Plaça del Consell de la Vila. M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). 5.60€. Short Sarrià (FGC). 30 Sept. Human towers as films and music documentaries in an part of the Festa Major de Sarrià. open-air venue. Folk traditions Flamenco 11.30am 9.30pm FREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). Ópera y Flamenco Palau de la 23 & 30 Sept. Traditional Catalan Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, dance. Information: www.bcn.cat/ 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 30-45€. barcelonacultura. Instrumental Tours 9pm 11am (Catalan) & 11.15am Art de Guitarra. ‘Aranjuez’ (Spanish) Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, FREE Ruta pel Cementiri de 29). 21€ Spanish guitar concert. Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, 56- 58).Guided tour of this huge cemetery, making its way up the side of Montjuïc Saturday 29 to learn about some of the significant figures buried here, and discover some Classical music striking works of funerary art. 8.30pm Wiener Philharmoniker Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, INFORMATION 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 40-200€. Considered by many to be the best AND SALES orchestra in the world, the Vienna Philharmonic returns to Barcelona after a ten year absence, with conductor Tourist Information Points and Daniel Gatti, to perform Johannes www.barcelonaturisme.cat Brahms’ second and fourth symphonies.

September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 49 Sights

Imax Port Vell Architecture (Moll d’Espanya). M: Drassanes (L3) Basílica de la Sagrada Família & Barceloneta (L4). 93 225 11 11. (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família Check times and programme at www. (L2-L5). 93 20 804 14 9am-8pm. 13 imaxportvell.com. 8.70 €. Put on your €. Barcelona’s most iconic building, glasses, and take a seat for the most begun by Antoni Gaudí in 1891 and exciting virtual reality experience that which remains unfinished to this day. the latest 3-D technology can provide, Ticket sales help fund the ongoing in Barcelona’s best-equipped large- construction works. The most visited format cinema. tourist attraction in Spain. G Experiència Casa Batlló (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). 93 285 (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de 44 40. 10am-8pm. 9 €. Reduced: 7.5 €. Gràcia (L3-L4). 93 216 03 06. 9am- Only 150 yards from the steps of Park 9pm. 18.15 €. Late night visit, 29€. Güell, you’ll find a doorway that takes Another of Gaudì’s most emblematic you inside the mind of Antoni Gaudí. works. Spaces include the former A fascinating interactive exhibition residence of the Batlló family, the roof designed to help you understand the terrace with its decorated chimneys, creative genius of Barcelona’s most (and the scaly spine of the dragon famous architect. defeated by Saint George,) and the marine-themed light well. The tour Tibidabo Funfair ends with the stunning entrance hall (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). T. 93 211 79 and main staircase. 42. Wed-Sun, 12am-11pm. 25,20 € (Those under 120cm, 9 €). With over a La Pedrera hundred years of history, Tibidabo is (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal one of the oldest funfairs in the world, (L3-L5). 902 400 973. 9am-8pm. featuring classic rides, old favourites 16.50 €. Reduced entrance, 14.85 and brand new attractions to €. The building many Barcelona guarantee an exciting day out. residents consider to be Gaudí’s masterpiece – the roof terrace is one of Port Aventura the joys of Modernisme. Some of its (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. Vila apartments are still private homes. Seca (Tarragona)). Train: Port Aventura. T. 977 779 000. Palau Güell PortAventura is a theme park located (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes south of Barcelona, between Vila-seca (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). 93 472 57 75. and Salou. Six themed zones Tue-Thur, 10am-8pm. 10 €. Reduced: (Mediterranean, Far West, Mexico, 8 € Built by Gaudí in the late 19th China, Polynesia & SésamoAventura) century, this mansion belonged to his occupy 119 hectares, with 30 main patron. The roof terrace is the attractions, 100 live processions daily, highlight, but the whole house is a 75 places to eat and 27 craft and fascinating introduction to Gaudí’s souvenir shops. revolutionary use of materials and space. Zoo de Barcelona (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Arc de Leisure Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/Vila Aire de Barcelona, Arab Baths Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 67 80. 1-15 (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Barceloneta Sept: 10-19 h. 16 Sept-29 d’octubre: (L4) & Jaume I (L4). Mon-Thur: first 10-18 h. 17 €. Infantil (3-12 anys): session: 10am. Fri, Sat & Sun: first 10.20 €. Barcelona Zoo, in Ciutadella session, 8am. Wed, Thu, Fri. & Sat: Park, has a 100-year history and is one last session, midnight-2am.Aire de of the city’s best-loved attractions. At Barcelona is in the Born, and recreates present it houses 315 species and more a traditional hammam. than 2,000 animals.

50 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012

52 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012