OFFICIAL FREE BCN GUIDE! FREE ISSUE_SEPFREE 2012_N. 2 BcnGuide IN ENGLISH 624 Arts La Mercè is back! Contents September 2012 IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN ;14 Food & Drink Maremagnum revamps its food hall H22 Around Town Experience Gaudí as never before 08 Feature 22 Around Town Hidden neighbourhoods of Gaudí in four dimensions Barcelona 24 Arts 14 Food & Drink The city’s greatest festival Where to eat, drink and takes to the streets shop with a sea view 26 Nightlife 20 Shopping The quirky Bodega Saltó Delicate silks and sexy sandals in Sant Gervasi 29 Listings TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE Advertising Nuria Gómez Diputació, 119 [email protected] ([email protected]), 93 202 95 95 www.barcelonaturisme.com Mercè Llubera www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Produced by 80 + 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Production Sally Davies & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Impreso por Bigsa Indústria Gràfi ca Editor-in-Chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, Ricard DL. B.25082-2012 Art Director Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia ISSN 2014-7767 Diego Piccininno Sendra Supported by Features & Web Editor Translation Maria José Gómez Nick Chapman September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Monthly planner Get out your diaries! We present just a handful of the cultural highlights for the month of September. Saturday 1 Sunday 2 Friday 7 THE FLYING JACK WHITE MECAL AIR DUTCHMAN White Stripes Brand new short Wagner’s opera frontman brings films and music presented in his solo act to documentary in an concert form by the promote new album open-air festival, at Bayreuth Festival. Blunderbuss. el Poble Espanyol. See 38. See 39. See 41. Saturday 8 Tuesday 11 24H DE BCN LA DIADA AUTOMOBILISME Concerts, Twenty-four hours speeches and of motor-racing at protest marches the Montmeló for Catalan race circuit. National Day. See 41. See 42. Thursday 13 Wednesday 19 Wednesday 00 MONA HATOUM FESTIVAL ASIA Exhibition of This celebration of the work of this all things Asian celebrated artist kicks off today in at the Fundació various venues Joan Miró. around town. See 43. See 44-45. Saturday 22 Sunday 23 LA MERCÈ ZOO The inimitable ANNIVERSARY festa major of the Free entry to the city, with music, zoo as part of its fireworks and other 120th anniversary Catalan pageantry. celebrations. See 46. See 46. 4 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 5 The Hot Seat MARIA DIAS Jordi Muñoz Co-director of the largest writing school in Europe. By Ada Castells Is the Escola d’Escriptura at the media attention, and at least a Ateneu Barcelonès really the quarter have been awarded literary biggest creative writing school prizes or become featured titles in in Europe? bookshops. Yes, we’re second only to a writing What’s the profi le of the average school in New York. The numbers student? speak for themselves: since the The school brings together people school was set up 14 years ago, who love language and literature, more than 12,000 students have and plan to turn their passion into attended our courses. Over 1,700 a full-time job – either through people have signed up for the 20 writing or by pursuing a career classes we’re running this year. in publishing – or who simply You’re in the big league! want to deepen their enjoyment Yes, but it’s not just about the of reading and writing. Within each number of students who sign up, group is a fantastic mix of people, it’s also about the range of courses with students of all ages, from 18 we offer and the fact that we have to 80. Every term we also run a more than 90 teachers, it’s about course for young writers, aged from the leading authors who visit us 15 to 17 years. every term, and the number of books by students and ex-students that are published every year. 12,000 I take there are a lot? students have attended This year we set a new record: creative writing courses at more than 100 published works. the Ateneu Barcelonès. Some of them have had a lot of 6 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 7 BARCELONA UNSEEN Take a stroll through some of the city’s less-frequented corners – the ones that rarely show up in the guidebooks. Below you’ll find three city walks that reveal the city’s hidden past and little-known spots, along with some tempting eating and drinking options. By Eulàlia Iglesias Photos Carla Tramullas 01. SANTS A STROLL THROUGH THE SECRET HISTORY OF AN INDUSTRIAL DISTRICT 1. FACTORIES Henriette Cros house and the Casa At the beginning of the 20th century, de les Bruixes – the witches’ house. Sants was the location of some of the largest factories in Catalonia, most of 2. LOCAL VIBES which have now been put to new use. Along Carrer d’Iberia you’ll find the Our journey through the district’s square of the same name, a public industrial past begins at the Plaça de space where the traditional spirit of Sants metro station (lines 1 & 5). Take the neighbourhood is still very alive – the Carrer de Sants exit and head with its wine cellar, water fountain towards Plaça d’Espanya. The first and the oldest building in Sants, the street on your right is C/Olzinelles: Casa del Rellotge – the ‘clock follow it to number 31, the location of house’, now a civic centre. Lleialtat Santseca, a workers’ co-operative housed in a majestic 3. BISECTING THE TRIANGLE building designed by Josep Alemany. Cross Carrer de Sants to enter the area Turn into Carrer d’Altafulla, and known as the Sants Triangle, built to down Carrer de Dalmau, which house workers at the huge Espanya despite its small size, hides some of Industrial textile works. Following C/ the district’s architectural gems – the Riego, you’ll come to the Plaça d’Osca, 8 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 PARC DE L’ESPANYA INDUSTRIAL VAPOR VELL LIBRARY COTXERES DE SANTS the heart of the Triangle and once the 5. RISING FROM THE ASHES site of the district’s market. Now head away from Sants station along the Passeig de Sant Antoni, 4. TO THE PARK back towards Plaça de Sants. As The Espanya Industrial factory is you arrive at the square, you pass now a park, accessed via the original the Cotxeres de Sants, on Carrer factory gates on C/Muntadas. The Sants 79, another civic centre, street takes it name from the family occupying what were once tram that founded the first cotton trading sheds. Take Carrer Joan Güell company in Spain. From here you can towards the Vapor Vell (‘old steam’) admire what remains of the once- textile factory, built by Joan Güell in mighty Espanya Industrial works: its 1840, and the oldest factory in Sants. nursery (now an infant school, the After the firm’s closure, the factory Escola Bressol Pau), the Casa del complex fell into decline, until the Mig and a shady stand of plane trees. city council acquired the building Further on, another remnant of the to convert it into a school and the factory building has been converted district’s main library. This brings into the lively Hostafrancs civic you to the end of the walk – not far centre (Rector Triadó, 53). from the beginning. September 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 9 02. LA SALUT A LITTLE-KNOWN NEIGHBOURHOOD JUST BEYOND PARK GÜELL SANT JOSEP DE LA MUNTANYA 1. POWERFUL PINS stands the building known locally Cross into the La Salut district from as the ‘iron house’, because of the northern side of Plaça de the striking use it makes of iron. Lesseps, which you can reach by This unusual apartment block metro (Lesseps, L3). This is one of the was designed by Francesc Rius in hilliest neighbourhoods in the city, so the 1970s. warm up those calf muscles as you follow Passatge de Napoleó up to the 2. HAUNTED HOUSES small and peaceful square that it It’s worth taking a short diversion forms with Carrer de Valldoreix. From towards the Rambla de Mercedes to here, join the steeply winding admire some of the most unusual Avinguda del Coll del Portell. The private houses in Barcelona. On the effort is repaid by two architectural corner with Carrer Sant Josep, stands points of interest: at number 43 you’ll a mysterious building that seems to find Casa Vilaró, the first Rationalist have been excavated out of the rock – building to be constructed in the city. and on C/Olot there’s the house which Despite the surrounding wall, it’s easy Carlos Ruiz Zafón made the residence to make out the rounded, boat-like of his fictional character Andreas profile, designed by Sixt Illescas in Corelli, in The Angel’s Game. At 1929. A little further on, at number 52, number 74, the Casal la Miranda, 10 Time Out BCN Guide September 2012 ASCENT TO LA SALUT THE IRON HOUSE RAMBLA DE MERCEDES’ HOUSE which looks like a sort of mountain Carrer de Sant Josep de Cottolengo. chalet, is the district’s main cultural Continue along the Carrer de Molist, and social centre. until you come to Carrer de la Salut, site of the chapel of the Mare de Déu 3. PARK GÜELL, UNDERCOVER de la Salut, which gives the district Follow the street along the section its name – Salut means “health” in that skirts the western edge of Park Catalan.