Guide to the Autonomia of Cataluña

Ta Barcelona Spain rragona Girona Lleida Catalonia Introduction 1 A walk round the capital cities Barcelona 10 Tarragona 16 Lleida 19 Girona 22 United Kingdom Trips round the Dublin autonomous comunity Girona London Costa Brava 25 Ireland The Eastern Pyrenees and valleys 29 Barcelona Costa de Garraf Paris and Costa del Maresme 31 The province’s inland area 34 Tarragona France Costa Daurada 35 Lleida The Western Pyrenees Cantabrian Sea and Val d´Aran 39 Leisure and shows 42 Catalonia Girona Lleida Useful information 47 Barcelona Tarragona Portugal Madrid Lisbon Spain Mediterranean Sea

Atlantic Ocean Melilla Ceuta

Rabat Morocco

Canary Islands Arreau Quillan Port-Barcares Fos Tarascon Estagel Les FRANCIA PERPIGNAN 3091 Bossóst Millans B. de Luchon ran Vall d’A BAQUEIRA Ax-les-Thermes Túnel de Bielsa Salardú -BERET Arties 3145 2575 Vielha P Pic Carlit Port de Pic d«Estats P la Bonaigua El Serrat 2921 Pico Posets 3408 Baqueira Bielsa 3371 V Esterri d'Ëneu P P.N. DE AIGÜESTORTES a a ANDORRA Port-Vendres Benasque ll d Vall de rer Y LAGO DE SANT MAURICI ’Ë Fer Ordino Soldeu ne Cardó all CERLER 230 u V Mont-Louis P.N. DE ORDESA Cerler Caldes de Boi Encamp Llívia Portbou Y MONTE PERDIDO Castejón oí Espot ANDORRA 1450 Vilaller B ESPOT-ESQUê les Escaldes la Jonquera P. N. de Sos e 2905 Roc de Fraussa Punta dels d Llavorsí LA VELLA VALLTER-2000 Prats-de-Mollo Colera CAP DE CREUS 2910 l BOê-TAÜLL Puigcerdà Canons a Taüll RESORT Llançà V Bellver Capmany Peralada PORT-AINÉ Lles 2913 Queralbs 260 el Port de la Selva Ainsa-Sobrabe el Pont Sort de Cerdanya Alp Puigmal Setcases Coll d’Ares P Ribes Emb. de Boadella 260 de Suert es Sant Pere de Rodes Cadaqués 2492 260 Martinet Rib Camprodon Emb. la Seu de de Freser Figueres Roses MASELLA ll Sant Pau 1115 Campo d'Urgell Va Sant Joan de Castellfollit Castello d´Empúries de Mediano Adrall P. N. LA MOLINA VALL DE Sopeira CADI-MOIXERÓ les Abadesses de Seguries de la Roca Arcusa Santa Liestra Gerri de la Sal NURIA P. N. AIGUAMOLLS Empuriabrava Golfo 1834 2647 Besalú DE L’EMPORDÁ de Roses y San Quilez Sant Gervás Organyá Bagá la Pobla 152 P. N. ZONA Empúries 2070 Ripoll II 230 la Pobla Coll de PORT Olot VOLCÁNICA l'Escala de Lillet DE LA GARROTXA Viladamat Emb. de Laguarres de Segur Boumort Nargó DEL COMTE RASOS DE Tremp PEGUERA Sant Esteve

Grado Graus Puente les Llosses EMPORDÁ d’en Bas Banyoles A 1023 A-7 Torroella l«Estartit de Montañana Emb. de Berga Vilada

Sant Llorenç Islas Medes de Montgrí V Oliana Sant Agustí GIRONA El Grado de Morunys de Lluçanès Emb. de Amer la Bisbal P 123 Emb. de l'Espunyola Barasona Benabarre Oliana Manlleu Susqueda d'Empordà Pals Begur A Barbastro 1677 Bassella Tamariu Estadilla Gironella Olost Anglès R Prats Emb. de Palafrugell 1108 Solsona Puig-reig de Lluçanès Cassà de

Santa Coloma B Fonz P Vilanova Sau la Selva Llafranc Islas Formigues de Farners Calella de Palafrugell P Vic de Sau Calonge Ager Artesa A LA SELVA Palamós Monzón Tamarite de Segre Ponts Cardona Tona Arbúcies Sils Platja d'Aro de Litera Súria Llagostera Moià R A 230 Balsareny A-7 s’Agarò Camarasa 1694 P. N. Hostalric Vidreres San Feliu de Guixols MONTSENY T Pomar Binefar Alfarrás Torá Sallent E II PLA D«URGELL Centelles Montseny Tossa de Mar Altorrincón S de Cinca Fonollosa Manresa P. N. SAN LLORENÇ Blanes Canyelles 240 Bellcaire Agramunt Guissona DEL MUNT I L’OBAC T Sant Celoni Tordera Lloret de Mar Almenar Balaguer d'Urgell O Binaced Malgrat de Mar e Almacelles Linyola Sant Ramon Calaf Monistrol 1095 S la Garriga Palafolls C Castellar Caldes Granollers Calella m Alcolea de Montserrat Pineda de Mar s Albalate O de Montbui Canet e Anglesola P. N. DE LA MUNTANYA del Vallès r 326 Bell-lloc Sant Pol de Mar de Cinca d'Urgell Cervera DE MONTSERRAT 1238 C Argentona A-19 Arenys de Mar a Ontiñena II Sabadell M LLEIDA Bellpuig Tárrega la Panadella Terrassa Caldes d«Estrac l Castellolí Premià de Mar e Ballobar Alcarrás Torregrosa Esparraguera Mataró d Mollerusa Igualada A Alella a Belianes II Vilassar de Mar t Zaidín Juneda Capellades Ripollet o s les Borges Vallbona de R Martorell Rubí el Masnou C Soses Santa Coloma Montgat Fraga Castelldans Blanques les Monges de Queralt E O A-2 L Sant Sadurní Molins de Rei Badalona Candasnos Torrente Vinaixa Sarral d'Anoia L Sant Just BARCELONA E Emb. de Cinca Serós 240 Montblanc A-7 I Desvern

ZARAGOZA 98 km ZARAGOZA de Mequinenza l'Espluga de Francolí N D Monestir de Gavà Maials la Granadella Monestir de Poblet R A-2 Santes Creus Villafranca Begues Mequinenza O del Penedès El Prat de Llobregat Á C Vilarodona Garraf Castelldefels Emb. Albarca 1201 Alcover Valls 340 Emb. Prades Sitges R 211 de Riba-roja Cunit de Flix la Bisbal 1115 la Selva del Camp el Vendrell Vilanova i la Geltrú f R Nonaspe de Falset Reus Segur de Calafell ra Fayón Ascó Flix Altafulla Calafell ar Riudoms Torredembarra G E la Pobla Mont-roig de Fabara Falset Vila-seca ta Maella de Massaluca del Camp os T 420 Móra la Nova Salou TARRAGONA C Gandesa I Batea Móra d'Ebre Cambrils Calaceite Tivissa A-7 D el Pinell de Brai A Rasquera Vandellòs l'Hospitalet de l'Infant D Motorway Prat de Compte A E Calafat R Expressway Xerta Tivenys 340 U A M National road Arnes el Perelló l'Ametlla de Mar Valderrobres 1182 D Primary basic netw ork road Tortosa l’Espina Cap Roig A Secondary basic network road Beceite P T l'Ampolla P. N. R N Local road Mas de Santa la Cava DELTA DE L«EBRE S Railway Barberans O Puebla Bàrbara Cap Tortosa A National Park Amposta C de Benifasar Nature Park la Senia Sant Carles de la Rápita M Bel P State hotel Ulldecona les Cases Monument d'Alcanar Historical ruins Traiguera 0 10 20 30 40 50 Km. Chert Alcanar Ski resort La Jana Vinaròs Sant Mateu CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Airport Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2000 Tirig Cálig Benicarló P 340 CASTELLÓN DE LA PLANA 60 km Introduction characteristics come to the fore in their traditional dance, the Getting to know sardana, a true reflection of Catalonia fraternity, performed to the beat of music charged with According to a legend widely melodiousness. accepted by the Catalonian people, in the ninth century, With a population of over six just before Wifredo I million, Catalonia covers a (El Velloso) died, blood from surface area of 31,930 km2 in his battle wounds was smeared the northeast of the Iberian onto his shield, forming four Peninsula. It is flanked to the vertical lines: the four red north by France and Andorra,

Coast of Girona stripes featured on the to the south by the senyera, or flag of the Autonomous Community of Autonomous Community of Valencia, to the west by Catalonia. Thus was born the Aragón and to the east by the symbol of identity of Mediterranean Sea, whose Catalonia, an outward-looking, waters bathe its more than Mediterranean region with its 500 km of coastline. own culture and language (Catalan), through which its A land of contrasts, the personality has gradually taken Catalonian community is of a shape. Of a friendly nature, varied relief which endows it Catalonians are extroverted yet with clearly differentiated discreet and these landscapes: deep valleys,

1 The inland area is essentially a land of farmers and cattle- breeders. Here, the countryside is made up of arable land speckled with villages and the typical Catalonian rural houses known as masíes.

The region's climate is conditioned by its varied relief. Of the Mediterranean continental type, it is mild and warm on the coast but more extreme in the areas of higher altitude, where snow is frequent. It is humid on the River Monastero. Lleida coast and dryer inland. Catalonia, which is divided administratively into four remote mountain villages, provinces (Barcelona, Girona, large capital cities, seafaring Lleida and Tarragona) and towns, snow-capped peaks, territorially into 41 regions, is spacious beaches and even one of the Mediterranean's tiny coves that may be major tourism centres and is reached only from the sea. specifically equipped for the As a result, the visitor finds purpose with a first-class himself in the enviable infrastructure which makes position of being able to it a popular choice among enjoy highly different scenes congress and convention within easy distance of one organisers. With facilities another. ranging from hotels, hotels and boarding houses to camp The Pyrenean mountain range sites and rural tourism hotels, runs from west to east along the Catalonian community has Catalonia's northern territory an accommodation capacity of until it reaches the approximately 500,000 places. Mediterranean Sea. Between the Pyrenees and the littoral In addition to tourism, and pre-littoral chains lies the Catalonia has always been an community's flattest area, important centre of industrial formed by the central activity, based originally on the depression. textile sector, though it has

2 spread towards other areas coupled with the charm of such as the car industry, food, each town and city, there is a chemicals and electronics. wide range of tourism A modern community, well- activities, all within Catalonia's positioned in the area of new boundaries. technologies, its inhabitants remain loyal to custom and When visiting this autonomous tradition. community, the traveller will realise that Catalonia is much Catalonia's seaports (including more than this brochure could two of the leading ever describe. With the chance Mediterranean ports, to breathe in the fresh Barcelona and Tarragona), mountain air, go bathing in fishing ports and pleasure the region's waters, admire the harbours total 43, while 61 monuments, enjoy refined percent of its surface area is cuisine, in Catalonia, pleasant covered by forest, with about surprises await round every 6,500 km2 of protected natural corner. The best thing for the spaces making up a huge visitor to do is to study the enclave of biodiversity. maps and establish areas of priority interest, confident in From coastal tourism (Costa the knowledge that whichever Daurada, Costa de Garraf, spot he chooses, Catalonia will Costa del Maresme and Costa not let him down. Brava), winter and mountain holiday resorts (the Catalonian www.cataloniaweb.com Pyrenees) to rural tourism (inland) and sightseeing,

Port of Tarragona

3 History main one being Barcelona. In the eleventh century, the Catalonia's history has evolved Catalonian counties joined alongside a people's tenacious together under the efforts to conserve their signs domination of Ramón of identity; a people that have Berenguer I. Having formed a lent their territory to a number dynastic union with Aragón in of civilisations, drawing from the twelfth century, Catalonia their cultures and undertook its great territorial accumulating a vast historical- expansion process in the artistic heritage. following century, during the reign of Jaime I El Conquistador, In ancient times, this territory who added the territories of received an initial influx of Valencia and Majorca to his Indo-European peoples who realm. Next came the came from Central Europe. Trastamara period and then Later, the Celts would arrive the era of the Austrias, with and, between the eighth and Carlos I, who would forge first centuries B.C., first the dynastic union between the Phoenicians and then the Kingdoms of Castile and Greeks appeared, to be Aragón in the sixteenth followed by the Iberians, who century. As a result of the occupied the Mediterranean strip of the peninsula, with some tribes deciding to settle Paseo arqueológico. Tarragona in Catalonia. The Romans arrived in these lands in the second century B.C., starting a Romanisation process which would reach its culminating point 200 years later. The Moslem era would come afterwards.

Towards the year 800 A.D., the troops of Charlemagne won part of what is now Catalonian territory from the Moslems. The ninth century marked the period of Catalonia's political construction. The area was organised into counties, the

4 defeats suffered by Catalonia However, after the Civil War, in the War of Succession in the Franco's government remained early eighteenth century, aloof of such aspirations until, Felipe V assumed the throne. in 1979, a more open-minded political approach led to the In nineteenth century approval of the Autonomy Catalonia, a widespread desire Statute and the restoration of for self-rule took root, starting what is now the Generalitat de off with a struggle to recover Cataluña. the region's own law and to maintain its own language and Artistic heritage customs. Thus was born the Mancomunitat de Cataluña The many peoples who (the commonwealth of settled in the territory of Catalonia), the embryo of the Catalonia left their mark in autonomous government, at the form of an artistic legacy, the beginning of the twentieth with countless constructions century. The complex business of great architectural of establishing the Generalitat interest. Catalonia's most de Cataluña (Catalonian ancient artistic possessions government) was completed are the cave paintings found during the Second Republic. in El Cogul, El Perelló and Ulldecona and the megalithic monuments which may still be seen in the region's northern area.

The short-lived Greek colonisation left behind it the archaeological remains of the ancient city of Rhode (Roses) and of Empúries, where there is still valuable evidence of the Roman era also. However, the greatest exponent of Romanisation in Catalonia is, beyond any doubt, the city of Tarragona, which stands proud of its walls, amphitheatre and circus, amongst other important monuments.

5 Similarly, Arab domination left Pyrenees. In the thirteenth signs of its brief occupation, century, what is known as the such as the castle, Castillo de la second Romanesque style Suda, in Tortosa. Little by little, flourished, moving towards a all these ancient civilisations fine sculptural decoration such endowed Catalonia with a as that seen in the Cathedral of historical-artistic heritage La Seu d'Urgell, the cloister in which was further enhanced in the Cathedral of Girona, the the Middle Ages when frontispiece and the cloister of Romanesque art and later, the Cathedral of Tarragona Gothic, chose this territory to and the old monastery at erect their architectural gems. Ripoll.

The range of Catalonian The complex construction of Romanesque covers over 2,000 the great Cistercian constructions, from early rural monasteries at Poblet, Santes churches to huge cathedrals. Creus and Vallbona de les Remarkable instances of the Monges was also started in first Catalonian Romanesque accordance with the style are to be found in the Romanesque model, although series of churches standing in ultimately, Gothic prevailed. Valle de Boi in the Western When, after the conquest of La Sagrada Familia. Barcelona the Balearic Islands and the Kingdom of Valencia, Catalonia was enjoying one of its greatest moments of splendour and all the towns and cities were seized by a passion for new buildings, Gothic art became the dominant feature. Barcelona boasts a first-class Gothic heritage, with its magnificent cathedral, the superb Church of Santa María del Mar and the monastery at Pedralbes. In Girona, the cathedral has the widest Gothic nave in Europe, while in Lleida, there is the Seu Vella Cathedral and in Tarragona, the cathedral and

6 the walled monumental arrival of such major figures as ensemble of Montblanc. Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí, two artists who were destined Renaissance and baroque were to reach worldwide fame. of less significance in Catalonia than the above aesthetic Natural heritage tendencies. Even so, there remain fine examples of that Catalonia possesses a period, such as the Basílica de boundless wealth of la Mercè, in Barcelona; the landscapes of extraordinary instances of Renaissance art in diversity and beauty, treasured Tarragona Cathedral; the Seu Nova de Lleida and the interesting baroque altarpieces in the churches at Cadaqués, on the Costa Brava, and at Arenys de Mar, in Maresme.

During the closing decades of the nineteenth century, Catalonia witnessed an outburst of modernism. In Barcelona, Antonio Gaudí, the movement's greatest exponent, erected buildings admired the world over, like Pedrera, Park Güell and the as yet unfinished Sagrada Familia. From the exceptional ensemble in the city itself, modernist art Mountain of Montserrat spread all over Catalonia, creating works of special interest such as some of the in the form of a national park buildings in the city of Reus, and a good number of nature built by the architect, parks: an ideal setting in which Domènech i Montaner. to switch off from daily routine and go and watch the Later, in the early years of the spectacle of life. twentieth century, avant-garde art would begin to make its The province of Barcelona is presence felt. The first quarter home to the nature park, of the century welcomed the Parque Natural de la

7 Muntanya de Montserrat, one Cadí-Moixeró, Catalonia's of the most popular places in largest nature park, where Catalonia, not only because of nature lovers have the chance the overwhelming beauty of to observe a wide variety of the Mountain of Montserrat fauna and to admire the but also because it is here that Alpine-like landscapes, the shrine of Mare de Déu de including the chain formed by Montserrat stands. The shrine, the Cadí and Moixeró ranges, with its image of the patron Macizo de Pedraforca and part saint of Catalonia, La of the Puigllançada and Tosa Moreneta, is frequently visited d'Alp. Amongst the park's by Marian devotees. Close at attractions are the all-terrain hand are two other nature circuits and trips by sledges parks: Montseny, declared as a drawn by Nordic dogs (tourist Reserve of the Biosphere information 93 824 41 51). owing to its ecological diversity, and Parque Natural In the province of Girona, de Santa Llorenç del Munt i there are three nature parks: L'Obac, of particular interest Parque Natural d'Aiguamolls on account of the vegetable de l'Empordà, formed by a and animal habitat found in its group of lakelets which caves, home to several species provide a privileged habitat for of bats and insects, some of aquatic birds (over 323 bird which are exclusive to the area. species and a reserve for mammals like the otter and Approaching the Barcelona the polecat); Parque Natural Pyrenees lies Parque Natural Zona Volcánica de la Garrotxa,

National park of Aigüestortes y Lago de Sant Maurici

8 situated round the town of canals and pools. The Olot, with as many as 30 shoreline's main features are volcanic cones, craters and lava the huge sandbanks and outflows, making it into one of impressive dunes formed by Europe's major nature parks the action of the sea. (information 972 26 60 12); Particularly noteworthy are Illa and Parque Natural de Cap de de Buda, El Fangar and Port Creus, a combination of land dels Alfacs. In this natural area, and sea set in the superb, wild measuring 7,736 hectares, countryside on the peninsula there are flora and fauna that of the same name. are unique to Catalonia: over 300 different bird species and Lleida has one of Spain's fish in great abundance. In the prettiest national parks, town of Deltebre, the visitor is Parque Nacional de recommended to look round Aigüestortes y Lago de Sant the Ecomuseo, where he will Maurici, a majestic landscape find lots of information about noted for its lofty peaks the Delta (Ecomuseo looking down onto countless 977 48 96 79). pools and ponds. Water is in abundance here, with 24 There are more protected mountain lakes, the best- natural areas in Catalonia, like known of which is Sant Sierra de Albera, famous for its Maurici. Of equal interest are valuable population of the Estany Gran, with its Mediterranean tortoises, and splendid cascades, and the Los Medes; not forgetting Estany Negre. A good starting partially protected areas, such point for a trip round the park as Riera Arbúcies-Hostalric, is Camí dels Enamorats and Timoneda d'Alfès, Mas de Roca de la Cremada. The route Melons and Alt Àneu, among crossing the park from Boi to others; and certain sections of Espot is one of the most some rivers, like La Llosa, fascinating in the entire Segre-Isòvol and Noguera Pyrenees. Pallaresa.

Lastly, to the south of the www.gencat.es/darp/medi/ province of Tarragona, lies pein/cparcs02.htm Parque Natural Delta de l'Ebre, a seaside area of great ecological importance consisting of a vast plain generously endowed with

9 A walk round Built in the period from the thirteenth to the fifteenth the capital cities centuries, it is a temple with three Gothic-style naves and a Barcelona nineteenth century facade. The building houses an Founded by the Romans in the outstanding artistic heritage in area between the Rivers the form of the spacious Llobregat and Besòs, the cloister, the Romanesque primitive enclosure of Barcino Chapel of Santa Llucía and the was situated on the Mons crypt of Santa Eulàlia. Taber. A universal, cosmopolitan city, Barcelona is Coming out of the cathedral a city of contrasts where the through the main door, one ancestral past lives on side-by- sees Casa de l'Ardiaca (2), side with the most rebuilt from the fifteenth contemporary of architectures century onwards on the city's in a state of perfect harmony. Roman wall (3), of which a number of notable fragments The nucleus of the capital of still remain. Nearby is the Catalonia is the Gothic Quarter, mediaeval building of Pia where some of the city's most Almoina (4). symbolic buildings are to be found, such as the cathedral Going along Calle de El Bisbé (1), where features from and then under the neo-Gothic different styles are combined. bridge of Casa dels Canonges (5), the visitor reaches Plaça de Cathedral Sant Jaume (6), where the buildings housing the city hall and the autonomous government, Generalitat de Catalunya, stand face to face. From here, Calle Ferran will lead us to the heart of the Ramblas (7), which start at Plaça de Catalunya (8) and end at the monument to Christopher Columbus (9). The upper section of this world-famous promenade is known as the Rambla de Canaletes, after the spring of the same name.

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Pg. Marítim XALOC 8 Plaça de Catalunya 28 Parc de la Ciutadella 15 Drassanes 29 Collserolla 16 Port Vell 30 Monastery of Pedralbes 17 Puerto de Barcelona 19 Barceloneta 20 Vila Olímpica 21 Anella Olímpic 22 National Palace of Montjuïc 23 La Sagrada Familia 24 Park Güell 25 Casa Batlló 26 Casa Milà “La Pedrera”

Tourist information Nautical sports centre Plaça de Catalunya Vila Olímpica

12 13 Tradition has it that any buildings. Not far away, the traveller who drinks from its great Gothic Basílica de Santa waters will return to the city. Maria del Pi (14) can be seen.

The Ramblas are the liveliest The next stop on our walk will part of the city. Here, one may be the Drassanes (15), the city's pause to watch the pavement old shipyards, and then Port artists or pass the time Vell (16), linked by the floating browsing at the well-stocked footbridge of Rambla del Mar newspaper stands. Failing that, to the Maremàgnum, a huge one may observe the street amusement and shopping sellers, with their arrays of centre. Close by is one of the flowers and even small Mediterranean's busiest ports, animals. Moving along the Puerto de Barcelona (17). Ramblas, the visitor will find the popular market, La Not far from Paseo de Colón is Boquería (10), the palace, the Basílica de la Mercè (18), an Palau de la Virreina (11), an eighteenth century baroque austere rococo building from building named after the city's the eighteenth century, and patron saint. This route will the Gran Teatre del Liceu (12), take us to the Barceloneta (19), opened in 1847 and rebuilt the old fishermen's district after it was burnt down in a which is now full of seafood tragic fire in 1994. On the restaurants. From here, other side of the promenade Rompeolas may be reached. stands Plaça Reial (13), an architectural ensemble of The year of 1992 is a key date nineteenth century porticoed in the city's history because it was then that Barcelona Monument to Christopher Columbus hosted the XXV Olympic Games. In preparation for this event, the city of Barcelona, also known as the Ciudad Condal, was completely transformed: with the Vila Olímpica (20), now a leisure centre, the seafront was recovered and some areas which had, until then, been abandoned, were made into inviting beaches. Such is the case of Mar Bella and El Bogatell.

14 Also resulting from this renovation process is the Anella Olímpica (21), situated on the mountain of Montjuïc. Of special note are the Estadi Olímpic, the Palau Sant Jordi, covered by an enormous metallic structure designed by the Japanese Arata Isozaki, and the Torre de Telecomunicaciones, by the architect Calatrava. At the foot of the mountain are the Montjuïc castle and national palace (Castillo/Palau Nacional de Montjuïc) (22), joined to Casa Milà “La Pedrera” Plaza de Españya by the María Cristina Promenade, famous for Ciutadella (28), providing access the illuminated fountains which to the zoo; Collserola (29), from add further appeal to the walk where the best views of the city as far as Font Màgica. are to be had; and the two major works in Catalan Gothic, The visitor should bear in mind the Monastery of Pedralbes that the overriding symbol of (30) and the Church of Santa Barcelona's identity is Maria del Mar (31). modernist architecture, best represented by the figures of Anybody visiting this great city, Antoni Gaudí, Josep Puig i considered to be one of the Cadafalc and Lluís Domènech i best-equipped in the world in Montaner. Accordingly, it is an terms of infrastructure, will absolute must to visit buildings realise that the capital of like the Sagrada Familia (23), Catalonia has so much to see Park Güell (24), Casa Batlló (25), and enjoy that it would take Casa Milà "La Pedrera" (26) and sheets and sheets of paper to the Palau de la Música Catalana describe it all. May the above (27). The last two of these description suffice to give the works, along with Park Güell, reader albeit a rough idea of have been declared world the many things he can expect heritage sites. to find when he arrives in Barcelona. Other places of interest are the city's largest park, Parc de la www.barcelonaturisme.com

15 Tarragona enjoy the impressive panoramic views of the Present-day Tarragona capital, then the best thing to (Tarraco) became the chief city do is to go to Paseo in Roman Catalonia and one Arqueológico (3), built around of the leading towns on the the Roman walls, which date Iberian Peninsula. It has been back to the early years of the declared a world heritage site Roman occupation. From here, by UNESCO. The capital of one can see as far as "Pont del Costa Daurada possesses a Diable" (Aqüeducte de les considerable artistic and Ferreres), a Roman aqueduct architectural heritage which, which is a masterpiece of together with the beaches, engineering, situated about makes it into a tourism centre four km from the capital. of tremendous interest. The high part of the city is Situated on the mouth of the made up of the old quarter, a River Francolí, Tarragona is an sightseer's delight set inside ideal place from which to the old Roman wall (4) from survey the Mediterranean Sea. the second century B.C.. For this purpose, at the end of Dominating the scene is the Rambla Nova (1), on Paseo de Cathedral of Santa Maria (5), Les Palmeres (2), there is a the capital's main mediaeval magnificent vantage point or building, together with the mirador. If the intention is to mediaeval arcades in Calle Mercería (6).

Aqüeducte de les Ferreres Proof of the Roman occupation of the city is furnished by the circus (7), which goes back to times prior to the first century A.D.. Its remains are situated round the present Plaça de la Font, near Rambla Vella (8). Although it has deteriorated in the course of time, it is one of the best-preserved constructions of its kind in Europe. At the end of this rambla stands the amphitheatre (9), built in the

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1 Rambla Nova 2 Paseo de les Palmeres 3 Paseo Arqueológico 4 Roman wall 5 Cathedral of Santa María 6 Calle Mercería 7 Circus 8 Rambla Vella 9 Amphitheatre 10 Beach of El Miracle 11 Palaeo-Christian burial site 12 Calle de Çavallers 13 Port 14 El Serrallo

Tourist information Rambla Nova

17 in mediaeval Tarragona. This Catalan capital also possesses a superb port (13), one of the most important in the Mediterranean. The area round the port is the setting for El Serrallo (14), the fishermen's quarter, where the visitor is recommended to try the city's best selection of fish and seafood.

Cathedral cloister Tarragona is, beyond any doubt, a city to suit all tastes. Combining a modern outlook second century A.D.. A good with a pride in its precious part of its structure may still reminders of former times, it be seen today, overlooking is an ideal place to delve into the pretty beach known as El history. Miracle (10). Other places of interest in the city include the www.costadaurada.org palaeo-Christian burial site (11), considered to be one of the most outstanding gardens of rest of this type in the western world, and Calle de Çavallers (12), the main street

Beach of El Miracle

18 Lleida find Casino Principal (3), built in the style of the Novecento. Spreading over the banks of Carrying on down Avenida the River Segre, in the middle Blondel (4), sights of different of fertile, fruit-growing styles are to be seen. Near Seu country, Lleida boasts a variety Nova is the Church of Sant of monuments which bear Llorenç (5) which, though witness to the highly diverse commenced in a late cultures that left their mark on Romanesque style (thirteenth the capital. It is an century), possesses a good extraordinarily attractive city, number of Gothic features. standing erect amid nature in its purest state as it looks to Other places to be visited the future with the best of the include the palace, Palau de la past behind it. Paeria (6), which has been altered considerably since it The old town is situated on was built in the thirteenth the right bank of the river. century and is now used as the Here, of particular interest is city hall; and Hospital Santa the old cathedral, Seu Vella María (7), of interest on (1), a combination of account of its late Gothic inner Romanesque and Gothic built patio suffused with light. on the site of an age-old Moslem mosque. The left bank of the river is the In the interior, the streaming site of the modern part of the light greatly enhances the city, born of expansion in the beauty of the sculptural decoration. After dark, bathed in the shadows cast by the Palau de la Paeria exterior lights, it seems to step out from its surroundings, creating a splendid sight as it holds sway over the entire city. Also worthy of note is the new cathedral, or Seu Nova (2), an interesting neoclassical work built in the eighteenth century. It is approached from Carrer Major.

In the same street, packed with shops and amusements, we

19 R

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1 Seu Vella 2 Seu Nova 3 Casino Principal 4 Avenida Blondel 5 Church of Sant Llorenç 6 Palau de la Paeria 7 Santa María Hospital 8 Camps Elisis

Seu Vella Tourist information

20 twentieth century. Arts and crafts fairs and traditional, folkloric events are held in the prepossessing gardens known as Camps Elisis (8).

When leaving Lleida, the traveller is recommended to take the N-II road, passing through Tarrega to stop at Cervera. This partly-walled town has a curious old quarter whose main attraction is the university building. Opened in 1720, it was the only university Cervera University in Catalonia for 100 years. Not far away is the mediaeval Church of Sant Antoni and the old Church of San Bernat, famous for its popular carreró where the marriage of the de les bruixes, or witches' Catholic Sovereigns took place. alleyway, and for the Church of This town, still within the Santa Maria, a fine example of province of Lleida, is also Catalan Gothic.

www.paeria.es/turisme Santa María Hospital

21 Girona Creación (tapestry of the creation) is kept. Made during Situated in the Ter valley, at the eleventh and twelfth the confluence of the Rivers centuries, it is the major work Güell, Galligants and Onyar, in Catalan Romanesque Girona is known as the city of tapestry-making. the four rivers. The River Onyar runs right through it, with the Near the cathedral stand the old part of the city on the right interesting diocesan art bank and the modern town on museum, Museu d'Art de the left. Girona, and the handsome Gothic building, Pia Almoina In the old part, there are still (5). Walking on along Calle remains of the ancient city wall Força, the visitor will reach (1), which winds its way along the Call, or the Jewish from Paseo Arqueológico (2) to Quarter (6), inhabited by a Jardines de la Muralla (3). The large Hebrew community prominent feature in this area during the Middle Ages. is the cathedral (4), a majestic building characterised by a Leaving this quarter on the mixture of styles, the Gothic left-hand side, we will find the nave, the widest in mediaeval twelfth century Arab baths, or European architecture, being Baños Árabes (7), and further of particular interest. Inside is on, the Benedictine monastery the Tresor de la Catedral, of Sant Pere de Galligants (8), where the famous Tapiz de la declared a historical-artistic monument. Opposite is the Romanesque Church of Sant View of the city Nicolau (9).

There are lots more sights to see in the old quarter, a constant reflection of the wealth of its historic past. The visitor might wish to go and admire, for instance, any of the several convents, such as Sant Domènec (10), El Carme or Sant Josep.

In the modern part of Girona, points of interest include

22 P . de l l Fra e nca el Jardines t ng s s Plaça Á John Lennon a ó C

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1 Wall 2 Paseo Arqueológico 3 Wall gardens 4 Cathedral 5 Pia Almoina 6 Jewish Quarter (Call) 7 Arab Baths 8 Church of Sant Pere de Galligants 9 Church of Sant Nicolau 10 Convent of Sant Domènec 11 Santa Caterina Hospital 12 Parc de la Devesa

Tourist information Cathedral

23 Hospital de Santa Caterina (11), a seventeenth century baroque building with a neoclassical facade and a number of modernist constructions. Before leaving the city, it is worthwhile going to Parc de la Devesa (12), where the local people like to go in their leisure time. With a surface area of over 40 Jewish Quarter hectares, it is the largest banana plantation in Catalonia.

Having bid farewell to Girona, the visitor is recommended to take the C-150 road to the town of Banyoles. Here, the main attraction for the tourist is the lake, or estany, of great geological interest. Set in a fine landscape, the lake is the subject of many a legend. It is Arab baths possible to walk right round the lake by following the pretty paths and strolling through the delightful parks. Boat trips are also available for those wishing to see the area from a different angle.

www.cbrava.es

Church of Sant Pere Galligants

24 Trips round the autonomous community Girona Costa Brava From Portbou to Blanes, the Costa Brava is Catalonia's northernmost section of shoreline. It is characterised by quaint seafaring towns, charming coves lapped by crystal-clear waters and a string of striking rocky cliffs battered at will by the Mediterranean Sea. It earned Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes its name of brava (wild) on account of its rugged relief, between sea and mountain so formed by a number of frequent in this area, surveyed mountain chains falling by the old Benedictine abruptly down to the sea. monastery of San Pere de Rodes, one of the chief When setting off on his trip monuments in Catalan along the northern coast, the Romanesque art. Close at hand first town the visitor will find is is the peninsula of Cap de Portbou. Travelling southwards Creus, recently declared a along the N-260 road, the nature park. Reaching into the town of Colera, of great sea over a distance of about 10 seafaring tradition, is reached. km, the peninsula is typical of Two of the most tempting the scenery on this shoreline. beaches are the ones at Colera and Garbes, separated by Continuing our coastal trip Punta dels Canons. southwards, we arrive in one of the Costa Brava's most Next comes the town of Llançà, symbolic villages: Cadaqués. with its popular pleasure Not for nothing did its harbour, and the seafaring indescribable beauty attract village of El Port de la Selva, a countless intellectuals and fine instance of the rapport artists, such as Pablo Picasso,

25 who produced exceptional Cadaqués Cubist paintings at the start of the century, and Salvador Dalí who, years later, from his road, looms the castle, Castelló home in Portlligat just one km d'Empúries, with its rich artistic away, would turn the village heritage. Proof of this is the into an international enclave exquisite fourteenth century for artists. Basílica de Santa Maria. Returning to the shoreline, we We then move on to the gulf, shall see the Empuriabrava Golfo de Roses which, forming Marina. a 15 km curve, makes for a far- stretching beach, rounded off Approaching the end of the with the towns of Roses and Golfo de Roses stands L'Escala, Empúries. Roses is noted for its which will lead us to the ruins old fortress and sixteenth of the Greek colony of century citadel, where curious Empúries, Catalonia's most remains of the Greek colony of frequently visited Rhode may still be seen. From archaeological site. here, we take the C-260 road inland to the town of Figueres Taking the road to Torroella where, amongst other things, de Montgrí, with its thirteenth we can visit the Dalí Theatre- century castle, L'Estartit, a Museum, containing the picturesque fishing port, artist's tomb. complete with pleasure harbour, awaits us. There are Just four kilometres inland, as boat trips from the port to the we carry on along the C-260 islets known as Islas Medes, a

26 small archipelago which was built on the rocks. With once a hideout for pirates. pleasing instances of popular Situated less than one mile architecture and houses built from the coast, the seven by the indianos (Spanish Medes islets form a protected emigrants who returned to area considered as a nature Spain after having made a reserve because of the fortune in Latin America), the biological value of the town and its surrounding area surrounding waters, where have received official over a thousand marine classification as a beauty spot. species dwell. Little more than seven km Now in the southern part of further along the inland road the Costa Brava, we might stop is Palafrugell, with its off at the village of Pals, proud archipelago known as Islas of its sightseeing area, which Formigues, ideal for scuba has been declared a historical- divers. On the sea front at artistic ensemble. Moving Palafrugell, there are attractive towards the coast, we reach tourist and residential areas Begur, overlooked by the situated in the old fishermen's remains of an austere castle districts like Tamariu and

27 Llafranc, not forgetting Calella de Palafrugell, renowned for its sessions of habaneras (Afro- Cuban songs), at which the popular cremat (flambéed rum with coffee) is drunk.

Travelling south along the C-255 road, we reach Palamós, with its famous fishing port and excellent facilities for lovers of nautical sports.

Moving along the shoreline on the same road, we enter Platja d'Aro, one of the area's most popular places as it so well- equipped in terms of shops and leisure activities. A few kilometres to the south is the luxury S'Agaró residential estate, an example of selective tourism at its best. Not far away lies our next destination: Sant Feliu de Guíxols, with a modern tourist area and some of the most comprehensive sports facilities to be found on this coastline.

The southernmost part of the Costa Brava is formed by La Selva (the forest), with a landscape of exuberant vegetation which more than justifies its name. Tossa de Mar, the first coastal town in this area, has a walled enclosure, Vila Vella, together with its Vila Nova, spreading along the beach. Following the Hermitage of Santa Cristina. Lloret de Mar coastal road, Lloret de Mar is

28 reached, now the main tourist The Eastern Pyrenees resort on the Costa Brava due and valleys to its accommodation capacity. Apart from being of great The Pyrenees, Catalonia's artistic interest, Lloret de Mar northern mountain range, has interesting buildings like afford views of spots the early sixteenth century nestling amid an Church of Sant Romá, the astonishingly beautiful Santa Cristina Hermitage and landscape. Snow-clad the Monument to the mountains, green valleys Seafaring Woman. and crystalline rivers go to make up an idyllic setting in The last town in the southern which the tourist may enjoy part of the Costa Brava is the pleasure of travelling to Blanes, where it is worth going the full. to see the remains of the castle, Castillo de San Joan, The traveller is advised to and the sightseeing area with start his tour of the Eastern its Gothic buildings dating Pyrenees at the municipal back to the fourteenth and district of Puigcerdà, the fifteenth centuries. The visitor area's commercial centre and might also take a stroll round hub of communications. the two botanical gardens: Here stands the fifteenth Mar i Murtra and Pinya Rosa. century Convent of Sant Domènec, complete with its And so our trip along the Costa Gothic murals. Brava draws to an end. Fishing villages, historical ruins, tiny coves and beautiful landscapes invaded by the waters of an often raging sea; in a word, an exceptional geographical area so well-prepared for tourism that it satisfies even the most demanding holidaymaker. www.cbrava.es

Monastery of Santa María de Ripoll

29 The N-152 road, passing flanked by the chasms of through Collada de Toses, Totlomón and Roc del Dui. will take us to Vall de Ribes, As if this were not enough, the Pyrenean valley where the glacial valleys of Ribes de Fresser is situated. Fontalba and Fontcalda give It is necessary to go through the whole scene an this town to reach Vall de attractive finishing touch. Núria, a stunning spot surrounded by an imposing Towards the north, a road ring of mountains through leads to Queralbs, a which the river of the same charming mountain village name flows, forming a gorge of picturesque stone buildings. This is where the footpath to the Shrine of Virgen de Núria begins. It is also possible to reach the shrine, situated at an altitude of 1,956 m, by the rack railway. On arrival, the views are breathtaking.

Returning to Ribes de Fresser, we take the N-152 road to Ripoll, where it is a must to visit the Romanesque monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll. Vall de Núria Founded towards the ninth

30 century, the monastery Barcelona features an extraordinary portico showing interesting Costa de Garraf and sculptural relief with scenes Costa del Maresme from the Bible. Within what is known as the From here, the C-151 road Costa de Ponent lies the Costa takes us to Sant Joan de les del Garraf, the scarped Abadesses, situated in a shoreline formed by the Garraf typical Pyrenean valley Mountains and Sierra de bathed by the River Ter. Coma-Roja as they drop into Here there is an outstanding the sea. On a hill belonging to Benedictine monastery this mountain mass stands the founded in the ninth century, an excellent example of Catalan Romanesque. The same road continues to Camprodon, where the twelfth century Monastery of Sant Pere may still be admired. The C-153 goes as far as the Coll d'Ares mountain pass on the border between Spain and France. The beach at Castelldefels

Skiers will be delighted with the winter resorts of the tenth century castle, the origin Eastern Pyrenees, La Molina, of the town of Castelldefels, Masella, Núria and Vallter now a major summer holiday 2000 being of particular resort because of the beaches note. of fine sand so characteristic of the area.

After a hair-raising trip along the C-245 as it runs past plunging ravines, the traveller reaches the town of Sitges, one of Catalonia's most popular holiday resorts, with first-class hotels and splendid pleasure harbours. While in the town, the visitor should go to

31 To the other side of the city of Barcelona lies the Costa de Llevant, more commonly known as the Costa del Maresme, stretching from Montgat to the mouth of the River Tordera. The coast is lined by a chain of seafaring towns and villages which have become residential areas as communications with Barcelona are so good. Coarse- sanded beaches alternate with smaller ones along a shoreline Church of Santa María. Mataró which is dotted with pleasant nooks attracting the tourist with culinary delights and all the old quarter to admire the the services he could wish for. Churches of Sant Bartomeu and Santa Tecla. Other Starting our trip round this buildings of interest include area in the south (the N-II the town hall, of nineteenth road, A-19 motorway), we find century neo-Gothic first Montgat and then Alella, construction, and the palace renowned for its wines. Then known as Palau Maricel, with comes El Masnou, a residential touches of mediaeval, town endowed with a fine Renaissance and baroque art. pleasure harbour and beach. Moreover, Sitges is known The N-II and the A-19 also lead internationally for its fiestas to the town of Vilassar de Mar, and festivals (the International with its lovely promenade. Film Festival and the Sitges International Theatre Festival). The next stop will be Mataró, a major industrial and The C-246 road goes to the commercial centre where one third of our recommended of the Costa del Maresme destinations: Vilanova i la pleasure harbours is situated. Geltrú, the capital of the Its most symbolic buildings district of Garraf. This seaward- include the sixteenth century looking town boasts a major Basílica de Santa María de fishing port and beaches that Mataró, with a mediaeval/neo- are a haven for lovers of Romanesque style facade nautical sports. which was added in the

32 e m s e r a M l e d a st O Co E

rraf e Ga AR MEDITERRÁN Costa d M nineteenth century. The town Mar, whose monuments and is also home to the Torre beaches attract large numbers Llauder archaeological site, of holidaymakers in the where there are still traces of a summer months. In the wake Roman villa from the first to of Arenis de Mar come the the third centuries A.D.. towns of Canet, with superb modernist buildings, and San More towards the north is the Pol de Mar, where the main town of Caldes d'Estrac, where feature is the Hermitage of there is a noted thermal Sant Pau. spring. Keeping to the N-II or A-19, one arrives in Arenys de A few kilometres further on, we find Calella, the true touristic capital of the Maresme area, overflowing with pavement cafés, restaurants and a lively nightlife which, together with the beaches, are an irresistible temptation for the traveller. We end our trip along this coast at Palafolls, where it is worth visiting the ruins of the castle built during the period from the twelfth to the Church of Sant Bartomeu and Santa fifteenth centuries. Tecla. Sitges

33 eighteenth century, is in the neo- classical style and one of its main points of interest is the interior murals by Josep M. Sert. The bishop's palace stands just next to the cathedral.

Sau Reservoir The A-18 road will take the traveller to Manresa, with its monumental approach formed by the cathedral or Basílica de Santa María and the architectural ensemble of Santa Cova. Once the home of San Ignacio de Loyola, Santa Cova is an important place of worship for Catholics.

From Manresa, taking the C-1410 road, we reach Cardona, The province’s inland area where the castle's walled fortress, now a parador or state The inland area of the province hotel, stands on a hill. The of Barcelona is bedecked with fortified enclosure contains, towns and villages of historical among other interesting interest. The visitor is strongly features, the Church of Sant recommended to go to Vic, Vicenç de Cardona, an arresting taking the N-152 road out of eleventh century Romanesque Barcelona. Situated to the west temple. However, the town's of the grand reservoir, Pantano chief sight was not created by de Sau, the town possesses a man but by the mysterious fine cathedral, the seat of an action of nature and its archbishopric. The temple, built evolution: the famous Montaña towards the end of the de Sal (mountain of salt) still

34 stands today as proof of the Tarragona withdrawal of the sea in the area no less than 65 million Costa Daurada years ago. Such is the name given to the An essential trip round the Catalan shoreline inside the interior of the province of province of Tarragona, lying Barcelona inevitably covers two between the towns of Cunit towns that are linked by the and Les Cases d'Alcanar. This common denominator of coastal strip, cleft by the winegrowing: Vilafranca del mouths of the Rivers Gaià, Penedès and Sant Sadurní Francolí and Ebro, may be d'Anoia, known respectively as described as a sequence of the wine capital and the cava rounded contours lined with capital. (Cava is a Catalan wine innumerable beaches trimmed similar to champagne). by calm, shallow waters. True Vilafranca del Penedès is the to its name (the golden coast), leading town in the Penedés the landscape is flooded in region for the production and golden hues of fine sands and export of wine. In addition, the the sun as it glows over the town is famous for its horizon. traditional market, held every Saturday, when tradesmen flock Leaving Cunit and the to the centre to set up their residential estate of Segur de stalls under the arcades of the Calafell, the visitor is main squares. Sant Sadurniú recommended to take the d'Anoia ranks first in Spain for the production of cava, with nearly 130 million bottles a Church of San Martín. Altafulla year. Naturally enough, one of the sights to be seen in this town is the structural ensemble in which cava is made: Caves Codorniu has modernist pavilions designed by Puig i Cadafalc, while the internationally-famous Freixenet, established in 1889, comes from highly attractive premises which date back to the twenties, though they have since been modernised.

35 visit the remarkable Renaissance castle and saunter along one of the most popular beaches on the Costa Daurada. Close at hand is the Roman villa of Els Munts, from the first to the sixth centuries, which occupies a privileged position on a hill overlooking C-246 to Calafell, the first stop the sea. on our trip along the Costa Daurada. A pretty holiday Our next destination will be resort, the town is admired for Altafulla, with the Renaissance its tiny mediaeval streets, castle of the Marquis of leading to the castle, and its Tamarit. At this point, the eleventh century Romanesque gentle contours of the coast church, housing remains of undergo a radical change. The frescoes. Nevertheless, the same road takes us to Salou, inhabitants claim that the greatest attraction is to be found when the sun goes Nautical sports centre. Cambrils down majestically over an almost perfectly even landscape.

Having visited the Roman arch known as Arc de Berà, we take the N-340 road to Torredembarra, where we can

36 west of the city of Tarragona. This seafaring town, which is like a great avenue stepping out to meet the waves, is the Costa Daurada's leading holiday resort. Here, one may enjoy a walk along the popular Paseo de Les Palmeres, which unobtrusively runs along the edge of the famous Llevant Beach. Not far from Salou is the theme park, Universal's Tortosa Port Aventura, which, ever since it was opened, has been one of the main tourist more, with beaches of coarser attractions on the Costa sand and patches of vegetation Daurada. reaching right down to the edge of the sea. It is a must to The N-340 road carries on to visit the fishing port. From Cambrils, a town with a well- here, we resume our coastal earned reputation for good journey to the beaches of El eating and an impressive port, Perelló and L'Ampolla, pausing where there is a strong fishing to admire the stunning beauty tradition. The coastline from of the area near Cap Roig. here to Delta de l'Ebre is an endless sequence of beaches Keeping to the N-340 as we washed by limpid waters. This leave Delta de l'Ebre behind area is home to major tourist us, we arrive in Les Cases resorts such as Miami Platja d'Alcanar, where we can visit and L'Hospitalet de L'Infant, the Catalan coastline's and others like L'Almadrava, in southernmost pleasure the vicinity of which the harbour and fishing port. The Calafat Circuit, scene of top southern gateway to motorcycling competitions, is Catalonia, the town is of situated. particular interest as it is the location of the Iberian village Still going southward as we of Moleta del Remei, officially continue our trip along the declared a historical-artistic Costa Daurada on the N-340, it monument. is well worth calling at L'Ametlla de Mar, where the There is, however, far more to coastal landscape changes once the Costa Daurada than its

37 coastal towns. The visitor must The visitor is also advised to not fail to visit some of the follow the Ruta del Císter, or inland towns like Reus, taking the Route of the Cistercian the N-340 or the N-420. Here, Order, which was responsible there is a superb sightseeing for Catalonia's major area, consisting, for instance, monasterial reform. The of the buildings in Plaça de Cistercian monks created an Prim and the Casa Navàs, a fine architectural style example of modernism. characterised by austerity of form, endowing Catalonia Tortosa should also be included with three of their on the itinerary. Situated near masterpieces: the monasteries the mouth of the River Ebro, at Poblet (a world heritage the town possesses remarkable site), Santes Creus and, in architectural works in the Lleida, Vallbona de les mediaeval, Renaissance, Monges. baroque and modernist styles. It is an official historical-artistic May these examples suffice to ensemble and some of the show that the Costa Daurada buildings, like the castle, has far more to offer than its Castillo de la Suda, now a state shores and beaches. The tourist hotel or parador, are national can just as easily have a beach monuments. holiday as he can visit the area's fascinating artistic monuments. The exquisite beauty of the coastal Monastery of Poblet landscape is enhanced by a backcloth of historical gems which are a sightseer's delight.

www.coastadaurada.org

38 Lleida

The Western Pyrenees and Val d’Aran The westernmost part of the Pyrenean mountain range is one of the most attractive places in the province of Lleida. In this area, deep valleys lie below towering peaks, forming an astonishing landscape spattered with tiny villages where it is bitterly cold in winter. For those wishing to find out more, two itineraries are recommended: one runs to the north of the Aigüestortes National Park and Sant Maurici Lake, accessible from Espot, while the other runs to the south of the park and is accessible from Boi.

Both routes start at the town of La Seu d'Urgell, with its twelfth century Romanesque Cathedral of Santa Maria. On reaching Sort along the N-260, we begin the northern itinerary by taking the C-147 as far as Esterri d'Àneu, a lovely rural spot. Behind us lie the valleys, Vall de Cardos and Vall Ferrera, watched from on high by the famous Pica d'Estats, with an altitude of 3,145 m..

With Vall d'Àneu and the town of Espot to the south, we take the C-142 to cross Port de la Bonaigua, stopping to admire Sant Maurici Lake

39 the breathtaking views of the bears close similarities to area. Passing the tourist resort Gascon. The area's of Baqueira, the visitor finds autochthonous cuisine is himself in Val d'Aran, where he influenced by the valley's may stop off at towns like climatology, with wholesome Salardú, Arties and the valley's dishes such as the olla aranesa main town, Vielha. All these (a form of stew) and others towns, of a prettiness which made from the valley's own has to be seen to be believed, produce. heighten the valley's intense greenness even further with their houses of granite and Vielha slate. As the winter holiday resorts of Baqueira Beret and Super Espot are not far away, skiers are a common sight in these places.

Val d'Aran, locked inside mountains nearly 3,000 m high, covers a surface area of just over 600 km2. The only Pyrenean valley with an Atlantic climate, its distinguishing feature is its language, Aranese, which

40 The second recommended of Catalan Romanesque: the itinerary starts at Sort, on the Churches of Sant Climent and N-260, passing by the Noguera Santa Maria de Taüll, among Pallaresa River valley, an others. excellent place for canoeing and rafting. We then arrive in The two routes come to an end La Pobla de Segur, known as in the town of Bossòst, where "the gateway to the Val d'Aran's most outstanding Pyrenees". Further south is Romanesque church, built in Tremp, the municipal district to the twelfth century, stands which the Sant Antoni proud. Reservoir, scene of many nautical sports, belongs. The The Romanesque churches of N-260 carries on from La Pobla Vall de Boi have been declared a de Segur to El Pont de Suert, world heritage site by UNESCO. the meeting point of various Pyrenean valleys. From here, As the visitor will see, the the N-230 continues up the Western Pyrenees provide an Pyrenees to take us into Val opportunity to see a superb d'Aran. It is better, however, to display of nature and its turn off at El Pont de Suert, wonders, further embellished, taking the L-500 to visit Val de if this be possible, by an artistic Boi. This exceptionally heritage of great value. attractive enclave conceals one of the most precious legacies www.lleidatur.es

Bossòst

41 Leisure and As for the Lleida part of the shows Pyrenees, the skier may choose from among the Super Espot resort, situated on one of the Sports access routes to Parque The extraordinary Nacional de Aigüestores y Lago geographical diversity of de Sant Maurici; Boi-Taüll, Catalonia, with a coastal surrounded by a number of strip bordering an inland interesting Romanesque of high mountains, makes churches; Port Ainé, with a for a wide range of large services infrastructure; possibilities for sports Baqueira Beret, a favourite lovers of all kinds. spot with long-distance skiers; and Port del Comte, which has become a highly popular, busy resort as it is within easy distance of Barcelona.

During the springtime, the Pyrenees and Catalonia's littoral and pre-littoral mountainous regions blossom into a myriad of unspeakably Ski resort. La Molina beautiful nooks and crannies where the visitor may come into contact with nature in its In winter, Catalonia means purest state. Furthermore, snow and skiing. In the Catalonia is an ideal place for Pyrenean area, the visitor will hikers, with a network of walks find a good number of resorts measuring over 3,000 km. where he can practice alpine- style skiing, with first-rate There are about 30 golf slopes and infrastructures. In courses in Catalonia, noted for Girona, the Pyrenean resorts the quality of the turf and the are: La Masella, one of the wide variety of rounds most tempting because of its (Federación Catalana de Golf variety of slopes; La Molina, 93 414 52 62). Spain's pioneer skiing resort; Vall de Núria, situated in an When the summer comes, the unexampled landscape; and Catalan shoreline overflows Vallter 2000, Catalonia's with possibilities for nautical easternmost skiing resort. sports at the many pleasure

42 Theme parks: *Universal's Port Aventura A-7, run-off 35, N-340, km. 2, Vila-Seca (Tarragona) 902 40 44 40 www.portaventura.es

Golf course *Catalunya en Miniatura Torrelles de Llobregat harbours situated all along the (Barcelona). Officially declared coast. Sailing, water-skiing, as being of national touristic scuba diving, aquatic motor interest, the park features sports... , the visitor takes his 170 miniature monuments choice and Catalonia provides representing the whole of the right setting. Catalonia. 93 689 09 60 Marinas and Museums and theme parks art galleries Marinas: Barcelona: *Acuatic Paradís • Thyssen-Bornenisza Sitges (Barcelona) Collection *Isla Fantasía Monasterio de Pedralbes Vilassar de Dalt (Barcelona) 93 280 14 34 *Aqua Brava. Cadaqués road. • Barcelona Contemporary Roses (Girona) Art Gallery (MACBA) *Aquadiver Plaça dels Àngels, 1 Platja d'Aro (Girona) 93 412 08 10 *Water World. Lloret-Vidreres • Catalonia National Art road. Lloret de Mar (Girona) Gallery (MNAC) *Marineland. Malgrat-Palafolls Palacio Nacional. Parque de road (Barcelona) Montjuïc. 93 423 71 99 *Aquapark. Salou (Tarragona) • Antoni Tàpies Foundation Aragón, 55. 93 487 03 15 • Joan Miró Foundation Port Aventura. Tarragona Montjuïc. 93 329 19 08

Girona: • Catalonia-Empúries Archaeological Museum L'Escala. 972 77 02 08

43 Night life When the sun goes down, Catalonia is oblivious of all care and woe. The main capital cities are packed with discotheques, cinemas, theatres, pavement cafés and so on, not forgetting the coastal towns, where Dalí Theatre-Museum. Figueres drinking, dancing and other night-time amusements go on till dawn. Moreover, Catalonia • Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation: has the added attraction of Dali Theatre-Museum three casinos, one at Castell de Figueres. 972 67 75 00 Peralada, another in Lloret and • Gala-Dalí House the Gran Casino de Barcelona. Museum/Castle All in all, there is a wide range of Púbol (La Pera) 972 48 82 11 entertainments which will test • Salvador Dalí House/Museum the visitor's endurance if he Portlligat (Cadaqués) wants to combine daytime 972 25 80 63 tourism with a wild night life.

Lleida: • Archaeological Museum of Popular fiestas the Institute of Lleida Studies One of the key dates on Plaza Catedral Catalonia's festive calendar is 973 27 15 00 April 23, Día de Sant Jordi • Cathedral Museum (St. George's Day), the Almodí Vell community's patron saint. On 973 26 94 70 this day, in keeping with a touching tradition which has Tarragona: now spread to other countries, • History Museum couples exchange books and Casa Castellarnau roses. The other big event 977 24 22 20 takes place on September 11 • National Archaeological when Catalonia's national Museum fiesta, La Diada, is held, 977 23 62 06 consisting of the community's own symbolic activities: castellers (human towers are built in defiance of the law of gravity) and the sardana, the traditional Catalan dance.

44 In almost every town, there is a weekly market where the visitor may buy typical local products such as sweetmeats, home-made sausages and popular Catalan handicrafts. Apart from first-class wines and cavas, Catalonia produces superb olive oil, with appellations d'origine such as Les Garrigues and Siurana. Other typical products include Castellers. Barcelona anchovies (L'Escala and Ratafías) and liqueurs generously Other events which should not flavoured with herbs and fruits. be missed include La Patum de It could almost be said that, in Berga, on the day of Corpus Catalonia, there are as many Christi; the dance, Dansa de la varieties of these liqueurs as Mort de Verges (Easter there are villages. Thursday); the Sitges carnival; the St. John's Day bonfires; and the fiestas de La Mercè, Food and drink the patron saint of Barcelona, If there is one thing that all visitors held in September. In addition to Catalonia agree about, it is that to these festivities, each town, here, good eating is a priority village and city district holds matter. Using only prime-quality its own Festa Major (main produce, Catalonian cuisine, which festive day) in honour of its has been subject to so many patron saint. influences, is sophisticated, flavoursome and varied. With specialities to satisfy diners of all Shopping and handicrafts tastes, gastronomy is based on the Catalonia has a longstanding natural resources deriving from the pottery tradition, especially in region's twofold nature: its coast the Ebro Basin, with the and its mountains. As a result, fish ceramics of Miravet and Verdú, and seafood are always fresh and including, amongst other sausages and meats are of the best articles, a wide variety of botijos quality. This entirely Mediterranean (earthenware pitchers with cuisine features delectable cold spout and handle). Also of great dishes like esqueixada (desalted cod renown are household goods salad), escalivada (roast aubergines, from El Vendrell and ceramics onions and red peppers) and xató from La Bisbal. (curly endive, cod and anchovies);

45 mongetes (typical Catalan sausage with beans) and pa amb tomàquet (bread and tomatoes), which may be served with the finest of sausages (raw or cured), typical of the area of Vic. Sausages include: bull, butifarra (white or black), longaniza (local and wholesome dishes such as the spiced sausage) and fuet. The appetising escudella (a hen, veal country ham should also be and ham stock), served with carn savoured. Another well-known d'olla (meat used in making the dish is calçotada, made from stock); broad beans Catalan-style; calçots (a variety of spring and cargols a la llauna (a snail onion), which are roasted and pottage). dipped in salvitxada (a variation on romesco sauce). When it There is also a wide choice of comes to desserts and meats and fish: the succulent sweetmeats, one is spoilt for rabbit with snails or with choice by delights such as crema samfaina (lightly fried peppers, catalana (a form of custard tomatoes, onions and covered in caramelised sugar); aubergine); chicken with lobster; mel i mató (cottage cheese with barbecued fish and seafood; and lashings of honey); panellets (a the typical suquet de peix (a fish typical Easter sweetmeat); pa de dish prepared with spicy sauce); pessic (an exceptionally spongy not to mention the endless list of cake); carquinyolis (where rice dishes, such as rossejat and almonds are the main black rice (with squid's ink). ingredient); and mona de Pascua (a cake creatively decorated with Catalonian dishes are often chocolate figures). accompanied by one of the many sauces peculiar to the In addition, Catalonia is one of region's cuisine: fish in romesco Spain's great winegrowing sauce (made from dried red regions, with nine appellations peppers and chopped almonds), d'origine: Alella, typical of Tarragona; and Empordà-Costa barbecued meat with all i oli Brava, Conca de (made with garlic and oil). Barberà, Costers del Segre, Penedès, There can be no doubt that the Priorat, Tarragona, most popular dishes in Catalan Terra Alta and Pla de gastronomy are butifarra amb Bages. While he is in

46 this land of good wines, the visitor should try, among others, By road the young whites; the crianza The main access roads to whites (those that have Catalonia are the A7, the undergone the statutory period Mediterranean motorway, of maturation in oak barrels); and the A-2, the north-east rosés, traditional red wines, motorway. Access is also rancios, or heavily oxidised wines, possible by the N-II (Madrid-La not to mention the sweet Jonquera); from Andorra, by garnacha wine. The range, which the N-145; from Aragón by is so vast that it suits all tastes, the N-260 or the N-420; and includes wines made from foreign from the Autonomous grapes like cabernet, chardonnay Community of Valencia, by and merlot. the N-340 or the N-232: a perfect road network linking A description of Catalan wines up the towns of Cataluña. would not be complete without the superb, world-famous cavas, Spas top-quality sparkling wines The benefits of Catalonia’s produced in accordance with the plentiful medicinal mineral traditional champagne method. waters may be enjoyed at any When in Catalonia, the traveller of the spas, almost idyllic should make the most of his stay places not only for the by visiting some of the cellars treatment of ailments but also where this wine is made, not only for the pure and simple for their unquestionable pleasure of feeling better architectural interest but also within oneself in a setting of because he will have the chance peace and quet. Situated in to watch the cava production nature’s realms, in gentle process step by step. Anyone countryside by the sea or amid visiting the area is strongly the valleys of the Pyrenees, recommended to go to the thermal springs are yet modernist cellars of the Costa another good reason for Daurada, where he will find visiting Catalonia unusual constructions by César Martinell, blending art with a Spa Association sense of practicality suited to their 93 218 36 99 use. The best examples of www.balneario.org Martinell's work are to be found in El Pinell de Brai, Falset, Gandesa, L'Espluga de Francolí and Sarral. USEFUL INFORMATION 47 TOURIST INFORMATION ACCOMMODATION International code: 34 Booking offices 902 10 37 72 (Lleida) Tourist Information TURESPAÑA: 972 22 43 44 (Girona) 901 300 600 www.hoteles.com (Barcelona) www.tourspain.es State Hotels/Paradores Turisme de Barcelona Booking office: 93 423 18 00 Requena, 3. Madrid 28013 Patronato de Turismo de la 91 516 66 66, fax 91 516 66 57 Diputación de Tarragona www.parador.es 977 23 03 12 Parador de Cardona (Barcelona) Patronato Provincial de Turismo de 93 869 12 75, fax 93 869 16 36 Lleida 973 24 54 08 Parador de Vic (Barcelona) Patronato de Turismo de Girona Paraje de Bac de Sau 972 20 84 01 93 812 23 23, fax 93 812 23 68 Parador de La Seu d’Urgell (Lleida) TOURIST OFFICES Sant Domenec, 6 Barcelona: Centro de Información Turística de Cataluña. Passeig de 973 35 20 00, fax 973 35 23 09 Gràcia, 107 93 238 40 00 Parador de Artíes (Lleida) Barcelona Airport Carretera de Baqueira Beret Terminal A 93 478 47 04 973 64 08 01, fax 973 64 10 01 Terminal B 93 478 05 65 Parador de Viella (Lleida) Plaça Catalunya, 17, subway Carretera de Túnel 906 30 12 82 973 64 01 00, fax 973 64 11 00 Estación de Sants. Plaça Països Parador de Aiguablava (Girona) Catalans 906 30 12 82 Platja d’Aiguablava. Begur Girona: Rambla Libertat, 1 972 62 21 62, fax 972 62 21 66 972 41 94 19 Parador de Tortosa (Tarragona) RENFE (railway station) Castillo de la Suda 972 21 62 96 977 44 44 50, fax 977 44 44 58 A-7 motorway. La Jonquera Camp sites toolbooth. 972 55 43 54, Information: Federación Catalana 972 55 46 42 de Camping Caravaning Lleida: Avenida Madrid, 36 972 20 86 67 973 27 09 97 Agri-tourism Turismo Lleida 902 101 110 www.agronet.org/agroturisme Tarragona: Fortuny, 4 977 23 34 15 GENERAL INFORMATION Rambla, 46 977 23 22 08 Emergencies 112 Reus Airport 977 77 22 04 Emergency medical service 061 Vila-Seca. Parc de Port Aventura National Police 091 977 38 46 56 Autonomous Community Police The main towns in Catalonia have Mossos d’Esquadra 93 300 91 91 their own tourist offices. Civil Guard 062

48 Airports: CHICAGO El Prat (Barcelona) 93 298 38 38 TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN Girona-Costa Brava (Girona) Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845 972 18 66 00 North Michigan Avenuer. Chicago, Reus (Tarragona) 977 77 98 00 Ilinois 60-611 By train: 1(312) 642 19 92 RENFE Information and booking fax 1(312) 642 98 17 office 902 24 02 02 e-mail: [email protected] www.renfe.es By boat: MIAMI Compañía Trasmediterránea TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 93 317 63 11 / 902 45 46 45 1221 Brickell Avenue. Maritime Station 93 306 88 00 Miami, Florida 33131 1(305) 358 19 92 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION fax 1(305) 358 82 23 OFFICES ABROAD e-mail: [email protected] CANADA. Toronto TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN NEW YORK 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor 1416/961 31 31 New York, New York 10103 fax 1416/961 19 92 1(212) 265 88 22 e-mail: [email protected] fax 1(212) 265 88 64 GREAT BRITAIN. London e-mail: [email protected] SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE 22-23 Manchester Square EMBASSIES IN MADRID LONDON W1M 5AP Canada: Nuñez de Barlboa, 35 44207/ 486 80 77 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67 fax 44207/ 486 80 34 Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 6 e-mail: [email protected] 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33 JAPAN. Tokyo Japan: Serrano, 109 TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21 Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F United States of America: Serrano, 75 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03 TOKYO-105 Russia: Velazquez, 155 813/34 32 61 41 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12 fax 813/34 32 61 44 e-mail: [email protected] Text: RUSSIA. Moscow Sebastiá Barrufet Rial SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE Translation: Tverskaya - 16/2 Business Center th Hillary Dyke “Galeria Aktor” 6 floor Photographs: Moscov 103009 Turespaña Picture Library 7095/ 935 83 99 Graphic design: fax 7095/ 935 83 96 PH Color, S.A. e-mail: [email protected] SINGAPORE. Singapore Published by TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN © Turespaña 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04 Secretaría de Estado de Comercio 238881 Singapore y Turismo 657/ 37 30 08 Ministerio de Economia fax 657/ 37 31 73 e-mail: [email protected] Printed by: UNITED STATES OF AMERICA GAEZ, S.A. Los Angeles TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 D. L.: M.41751-2001 Beverly Hills, California 90211 NIPO: 380-01-026-0 1(323) 658 71 88-658 71 92 Printed in Spain fax 1(323) 658 10 61 e-mail: [email protected] First edition I DE ECONOMÍA MINISTERIO

TURESPAÑA GENERAL DETURISMO SECRETARÍA Y TURISMO ESTADO DECOMERCIO SECRETARÍA DE Spain Catalonia