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annual report 04-05 CHAPTER VII

WOOLLEN INDUSTRY

he woollen industry in the country c) and Non-worsted is small in size and scattered. It is Units Tprimarily located in Punjab, d) Machine made Carpet- Haryana, Rajasthan, U.P., Maharashtra manufacturing Units and Gujarat, with 40% of units being in ii) Decentralized Sector: Punjab, 27% in Haryana, 10% in a) Hosiery and Rajasthan, while the remaining 23% in rest b) Powerloom of the States. The industry provides c) Hand-knotted Carpets, employment to approximately 12 lakh Druggets and Namdahs people and contributes significantly to d) Independent Dyeing industrial production. Processing Houses The Woollen Industry falls under: - The indigenous production of fine quality i) Organized Sector: required by the organized mills and a) Composite Mills the decentralized hosiery sector is very b) Units limited, therefore country depends largely

Table 7.1 Overview of Woollen Industry

a) Total number of registered units. : 718 b) Total number of people : 12 lakh (approx.) employed in the woollen industry. c) Total exports* (excluding hand made carpets, rugs, durries, etc.) 2001-02 : Rs. 1,378.74 crore 2002-03 : Rs. 1,289.17 crore 2003-04 : Rs. 1,646.32 crore 2004-05 (April-Nov., 2004) : Rs. 1,337.96 crore d) Total import of raw wool * 2001-02 : Rs. 72.74 Million kg 2002-03 : Rs. 73.66 Million kg 2003-04 : Rs. 84.61 Million kg 2004-05 (April-Nov., 2004) : Rs. 57.00 Million kg e) Total import of woolen & cotton rags* 2001-02 : Rs. 68.18 Million kg 2002-03 : Rs. 52.39 Million kg 2003-04 : Rs. 82.64 Million kg 2004-05 (April-Nov., 2004) : Rs. 47.18 Million kg (*Source: Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics, Kolkata)

75 ministry of on import, Australia being the major Details of capacity permitted through supplier. The New Zealand wool, rich in Information Memorandum and Letter of lustre, is mainly imported for carpet Intent as well as for 100% EOU from sector for blending it with indigenous 01.04.2004 to 30.11.2004. wool. The import of pre-mutilated i) Details of Industrial Entrepreneurs woollen/synthetic rags is also allowed Memorandum (IEM) received from under OGL for the shoddy sector. Secretariat of Industrial Assistance The production details of indigenous wool (SIA) from 01.04.2004 to 30.11.2004 in the country during the last three years are at Table 7.4. are at Table 7.2. Table 7.4

Sr. Items Total Annual Table 7.2 No. Capacity Year Quantity in million kg 01.04.04 to 30.11.04 2000-01 49.2 2001-02 50.7 1. Durries Druggets 3,00,000 MT 2002-03 52.1(P) Rugs 2003-04 53.6(P) 2. Wool Tops 8350 MT 2004-05 55.1(E) 3. Shoddy 3,00,000 Kg 4. Woollen Fabrics 20,00,000MT P: Provisional E: Estimated 5. Blankets & 30,00,000 (Source: Department of Animal Husbandry, Shawls Pieces Ministry of Agriculture) 6. Cotton Spinning 20,00,000 Kg (Blended with wool, silk, man- The details of the Indian Woollen made fibres) Industry’s installed capacity are at Table 7.3. ii) Details of Industrial License from SIA, New Delhi for the period of Table 7.3 01.04.2004 to 30.11.2004 are at (As on 30.09.2004) Table 7.5. i) a) Wool Combing 29.28 Mn kg b) Synthetic Fibre 3.57 Mn kg Table 7.5 Combing ii) Worsted Spindles 6.04 lakh Sr. Month No. Items Annual (No.) No. capacity iii) Non-Worsted 4.37 lakh 1. August, 04 1 Acrylic 4,500 MT Spindles (No.) Yarn iv) Powerloom (No.) 7,228 (Decentra- Processors lized sector) v) Machine-made & 8.00 lakh sq mtr, iii) Details of 100% EOU received from Handmade carpet 0.50 Mn kg sector 2003-04(E) Ministry SIA during 01.04.2004 to 30.11.2004 – Nil.

76 annual report 04-05

The production details of woollen items are at Table 7.6.

Table 7.6

(Quantity in millions) Item Unit 97-98 98-99 99-2000 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 (E) Worsted Yarn (Kg.) 42.0 44.0 45.00 43.0 44.00 44.00 44.00 Woollen & (Kg.) 63.5 58.0 58.0 60.0 59.0 58.00 59.00 Shoddy Yarn Worsted wearable (L in Mtrs.) 66.0 68.0 68.0 64.0 65.00 66.00 66.00 Fabric Knitted Hosiery (Kg.) 13.5 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.00 13.00 13.00 Goods Non-worsted Fabric (L in Mtrs.) 17.0 15.0 16.0 18.0 18.00 17.00 17.50 E: Estimated. L: Length. (Source: Indian Woollen Mills Federation, Mumbai).

CENTRAL WOOL crore for the period from 2003-04 to 2006- DEVELOPMENT BOARD, 07. It has two main components – JODHPUR Improvement of Wool Fibre and Quality Processing of Wool. It is being The Central Wool Development Board implemented as a fully funded Centrally (CWDB), Jodhpur constituted in 1987 with Sponsored Scheme since July 2003. an objective of promoting growth and development of wool and woollens. During For 2004-05, a sum of Rs.690 lakh has 2004-05 it is pursuing its objectives been allocated to the Board for the various through various activities like market components and sub-components of the intelligence, improvement of wool and IWIP. This includes provision of Rs. 600 woolens, price stabilization, and quality lakh under Plan and Rs. 90 lakh for Non control. The board is supported by GOI Plan compements. Till 10.01.2005 the grants. Board utilized Rs. 96.94 lakh on the implementation of various Plan schemes At the end of the 9th Five Year Plan period, and projects and Rs. 48.03 lakh on Non- the CWDB undertook Zero Based Plan compements – establishment and Budgeting exercise and merged its IX Plan other administrative expenditures. schemes into 5 schemes in the 1st year of the 10th Plan (2002-03), and An additional Rs.100 lakh has been simultaneously, after consultation with the allocated to the CWDB for 2004-05 under States, a larger consolidated programme the Special Package for the State of was designed with specific targets, greater Jammu & Kashmir for the development of flexibility in implementation and greater Sheep, Wool and Pashmina. It has been emphasis on the marketing of wool. This designed on the pattern of IWIP. The programme was approved as the package includes components for genetic Integrated Wool Improvement Programme improvement, purchase of cross breed (IWIP) with a budget provision of Rs.35 rams, health coverage, product

77 ministry of textiles development, supplementary nutrition, adopting the integrated approach and strengthening of extension services and strategy of the UNDP assisted Fibres & grading centres, publicity, information, Handicraft Programme (FHAP) project to training, etc. promote Angora development as a sustainable livelihood activity. A provision The main features programme along with of Rs.10 lakh has been made to cover 200 funds allocated and expenditure made in families in 2004-05. 2004-05 are in succeeding paragraphs. (ii) Development of Pashmina: The IMPROVEMENT OF WOOL Pashmina Development Project started FIBRE under the UNDP assisted programme in Sheep and Wool Improvement 2001 in Ladakh, is proposed to be Scheme (SWIS) strengthened in the 10th Plan by adopting an integrated and intensive approach Under the Sheep & Wool Improvement which would: (i) provide necessary inputs Scheme (SWIS) an integrated approach for breed improvement, training, health has been adopted for improvement of wool care and nutritional supplementation for production and wool quality by improving Pashmina goat breeding and the stock, health and care of the sheep, development; (ii) stabilize marketing and setting up a system of marketing that arrangements through cooperatives/ will recognize and reward quality and federations of Pashmina wool producers; thereby encourage the producer to (iii) establish means for early stages of intensify his inputs into sheep breeding processing within the region and its and sheep rearing. A provision of Rs.320 operation by wool producers’ federations lakh has been made for 2004-05 to cover for first stage value addition; and (iv) 6 lakh sheep. The Board has utilized increase the income from wool of the goat Rs.19.93 lakh till 10.01.2005. The Central rearers so as to sustain their interest in Wool Development Board has a this activity as a reliable means of committed liability of Rs.330.56 lakh under livelihood. During 2004-05, the Board this scheme which is to be released to the made a provision of Rs.20 lakh to cover State Governments concerned on getting 500 families under the Prime Minister’s utilization certificates in regard to previous Special Package for Jammu & Kashmir, grants. and the entire amount was released by 10.01.2005. Development of Speciality Fibres Support Services (i) Angora Wool Development: Looking to the economic returns from processed (i) Marketing and Promotional Angora fibre and the potential for Activities: The scheme supports the employment generation in remote hilly following activities – organizing seminars areas, the efforts to develop Angora during and workshops, studies, publishing a 10th Plan is proposed to be continued by quarterly news magazine “Wool Ways”,

78 annual report 04-05 literature and statistics on wool sector, was spent on the following activities till organizing fairs and sale-cum-exhibitions upto 10.01.2005: for rural wool weavers; and conducting (a) The Central Wool Development is publicity campaigns to promote utilization operating a Weaving & Designing of wool and development of sheep Centre at Kullu to impart advance husbandry practices. Woollen Expos were training to local weavers & spinners. organized to provide marketing support for This centre intends to train 45 woollen products and to help widen people during 2004-2005. outreach to buyers and open new marketing avenues for woollen products (b) The Board has tied up its training of the wool cottage industry. A provision programme with the Central Sheep of Rs.50 lakh was made for organizing full & Wool Research Institute fledged Woollen Expos at Jammu, (CSWRI) and Sheep Breeding Chandigarh, Dehradun and Lucknow and Farm, Hissar (Ministry of the Board also intended to hire stalls in Agriculture) to provide training to reputed fairs at Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaipur, farmers in sheep management, Puskar and Pune during 2004-05. angora rabbit rearing and machine Besides, the Board also intends to shearing of sheep. organize Workshop/Seminars on different aspects of woollen sector. The Board (c) The Board has entered into an utilized Rs 17.85 lakh till upto 10.01.2005. arrangement with the NIRD for a concurrent evaluation of its (ii) Marketing Intelligence Network schemes. The NIRD will make field (MIN): The MIN already set up by the visits to assess and understand the CWDB was strengthened to build up issues in implementation, and hold reliable information system for collection quarterly workshops to give of information of prevailing market rates feedback as well as suggestions for of wool and yarn, latest trends and correctives that need to be made transactions of wool and woollen products in the delivery as well as the to serve the purpose of the primary and guidelines of the projects. The most needed link in the wool processing Concurrent Evaluation Exercise will chain-the wool producers. The information run parallel with the project and will gathered from the main mandies is relayed cost the CWDB approximately Rs. to the CWDB, the Departments of Sheep 49 lakh for 4 years. A provision of and Animal Husbandry, and then to Rs. 30 lakh is made for 2004-05 for dissemination sources like field offices at above activities. The NIRD has village and block level. already made preliminary surveys (iii) Research, Consultancies, and also conducted a Stakeholders’ Studies, Training & Monitoring/ Conference at New Delhi in Evaluation of schemes: Rs. 11.72 lakh October 2004.

79 ministry of textiles

Wool Scouring Plant developed and fabricated by CWDB

QUALITY PROCESSING OF (ii) Human Resource Development: WOOL In order to achieve sustainability and quality assurance by developing a large Under the Quality Processing of Wool enough pool of human resources that is component of the IWIP a provision of acquainted with and trained in state-of- Rs.170 lakh has been made in 2004-05 the-art technologies, and instilled with for the following activities:- the attitudes required for quality output, (i) Technical and Consultancy a long term plan is required for (i) Services: The sector has a dearth of reviewing curricula and syllabi of managerial and technical personnel, even technical training institutes and colleges within Government, only selective service for wool content; (ii) strengthening centres and quality testing centres of the capabilities of teachers and increasing Textile Commissioner’s Office or the the specialization of teachers in this Textiles Committee have manpower with sphere; (iii) starting in-service training, woollen industry experience. This problem virtual and real, for all levels of personnel is proposed to be tackled by both short in the wool industry; and (iv) developing and long term solutions. In the short term, an institute as a Centre for Excellence given the shortage of technically trained in Wool and a nodal body for managing manpower an innovative approach has this work. The effort to do this is being been adopted to bridge the gap in made in close consultation with expertise, till, in the long term, adequate Australia, as part of the India-Australia facilities are set up and a turnout of trained Joint Business Group on Natural Fibres manpower is achieved. and Textiles (JBG).

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(iii) Common Facility Centres: creation of innovative blends of wool in combination with jute, cotton, polyester, (a) The Carpet Centres would silk and flax. This is necessary for promote medium and high-knotted innovative fabrics and textures for woollen carpets and are proposed to be furnishings, made ups and apparels in a set up in 3 major clusters of the carpet technically correct manner. Carpet grade industry viz. Jaipur, Bhadoi and Srinagar wool would require R&D support for in participation with the industry through the carpet associations with emphasis on improvement in the quality of yarn with a improving the dyeing techniques and special emphasis on yarn making and technology and the washing and drying dyeing, machine improvement and processes. innovation. The R&D efforts into effluents treatment and pollution control would also (b) The Shawl Finishing Centres are be encouraged. proposed to be set up to sustain the increase in the export of shawls. The (b) Studies –Research and data support quality of shawls will be upgraded by that does not require laboratory facilities improving in the quality of yarn as well as but is necessary for the industry to improve its finishing. its efficiency, market response and value addition are proposed to be taken up (iv) Research, Development and through well established organizations Studies: and institutes of management and (a) Research & Development: The R&D research to support the long felt needs of activities are proposed to be taken up for the industry.

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