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The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33 -
Textile Industry Needs Christopher D
The Journal of Cotton Science 21:210–219 (2017) 210 http://journal.cotton.org, © The Cotton Foundation 2017 ENGINEERING & GINNING Textile Industry Needs Christopher D. Delhom, Vikki B. Martin, and Martin K. Schreiner ABSTRACT lthough the immediate customer of the gin is Athe cotton producer, the end user of the ginned The immediate customers of cotton gins are lint is the textile mill, retailers, and eventually the the producers; however, the ultimate customers consumer. Thus, it is essential for the ginner to are textile mills and consumers. The ginner has satisfy both the producers and the textile industry. the challenging task to satisfy both producers and Consequently, the ginner needs to be aware of the the textile industry. Classing and grading systems needs of the textile industry. are intended to assign an economic value to the The intent of the cotton classing and grading bales that relates to textile mill demands and the system is to assign an economic value to the bale that quality of the end product. International textile documents its properties as it relates to the quality of mills currently are the primary consumers of U.S. the end product. Since the last edition of the Cotton cotton lint where it must compete against foreign Ginners Handbook in 1994, the customers of U.S. origins. International textile mills manufacture cotton have changed radically, shifting from primar- primarily ring-spun yarns, whereas domestic mills ily domestic to international mills. International mills manufacture predominantly rotor spun yarns. Pro- have been accustomed primarily to hand-harvested ducers and ginners must produce cottons to satisfy cotton that has been processed at slow ginning all segments of the industry, i.e., domestic and in- rates. -
Dear Stitchers, Looking for a Little Inspiration? Color, Texture and Pattern Are All Sparking Our Creativity This Month
KATHY'S KREATIONS 141 East Main Street Ligonier, PA 15658 724-238-9320 FEBRUARY 2015 UPDATE Dear Stitchers, Looking for a little inspiration? Color, texture and pattern are all sparking our creativity this month. This is the season when we turn inward, embracing those elements that make our home a welcome sanctuary against the longer nights and the chill of winter. Knit and crochet projects using rich colors of comforting yarn, plush textures and a mix of traditionally-inspired patterns all bring a sense of warmth. Color your world and bring substance to your wardrobe this winter! Laid-back outfits are elevated by mixing color and texture. Cozy classics in deep neutral tones create the perfect canvas to express yourself with "let it snow" accessories. TAHKI YARNS tonal cotton-wool blend "Zona" embodies casual elegance. A few bold tones can rejuvenate a neutral base, while keeping the overall palette simple and adjustable. Lightweight MIRASOL "Pagu Pura" 100% alpaca is fashionable without being trendy. Dream up your own combinations. Change it up with your mood. Make it your own. Discover rustic textures in beautiful tweeds and thick-and-thin yarns. Inspired by the notion that opposites attract, rustic textures create drama, depth, and a casual fashion sense with the added spice of luscious texture. Tweeds and marls can be an elegant canvas for your personal style, especially when paired with softer, more luxurious surfaces, from densely woven knits to delicate embroidery. On our shelves, you'll find new shades of BERROCO "Inca Tweed" and ROWAN "Felted Tweed Aran" for toasty mittens, hats and scarves. -
Effect of Twist on the Physical Properties of a Number 7S Yarn
EFFECT OF TWIST ON THE PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF A NUMBER 7S YARN By F. R. McGowan, Charles W. Schoflstall, and A. A. Mercier ABSTRACT This investigation was made to determine the most suitable twist for manu- facturing the yarn to be used in the Pima post office bag investigation. Data were obtained on the relation of the twist to the breaking strength, diameter of the yarn, yarn count, contraction, and angle of twist. While these data were not sufficiently extensive to attempt to fix definite formula for these relations, it is thought that the tabular and graphical relation studied in this investigation will be useful for the cotton manufacturer. The most suitable twist for the yarn to be used in the Pima mail bags was found to be about 12 turns per inch. CONTENTS Page I. Introduction 85 II. Purpose 86 III. Method of manufacture 86 IV. Methods of test 87 1. Contraction 87 2. Yarn count 87 3. Diameter of yarn .. 87 4. Angle of twist 88 5. Breaking strength 89 V. Discussion of results 89 VI. Summary 95 I. INTRODUCTION There are many different ideas regarding the amount of twist 1 which should be given to a cotton yarn to serve any specific purpose. These opinions have been founded more or less on observation and fact, but sometimes they have no sound reasonable basis. For in- stance, the terms " hosiery twist," " warp twist," " filling twist," etc., are used with numerous ideas as to just what they comprise, for they vary considerably from mill to mill, and even within the organization of a single mill marked variations in practice occur. -
Using Cotton Sliver Draft Force to Evaluate Textile Processing Efficiency, Part I
USING COTTON SLIVER DRAFT FORCE TO EVALUATE TEXTILE PROCESSING EFFICIENCY, PART I D. D. McAlister, III, J. D. Bargeron, L. C. Godbey ABSTRACT. Fiber bundles in sliver form more closely represent the fiber bundles commonly used in commercial testing. Therefore, this experiment focused on studying drafting force using untwisted fiber bundles (sliver) rather than twisted fiber bundles (roving) as had been previously studied. Four cottons of similar micronaire but different lengths were utilized for this experiment. Ring spun yarns of three different linear densities were produced from each cotton to cover the range of coarse to fine yarns commonly produced in a textile mill. Fiber quality, processing quality, and yarn quality were measured for each cotton in addition to finisher sliver drafting force. The analysis of the data indicates that short fiber content has the greatest impact on drafting force. In addition, it appears to be possible to determine processing waste and spinning efficiency levels through the determination of drafting force of sliver. Keywords. Cotton, Textile processing, Fiber quality, Short fiber content, Drafting force. pinning technology is advancing far beyond predict- and against metal (fiber-to-metal) and found a strong rela- ing cotton fiber performance from the fiber proper- tionship (r = 0.85) between fiber crimp and fiber-to-fiber co- ties reported by High-Volume Instruments (HVI) hesion with a RotorRing test method. In earlier work, and used for the marketing of cotton. Currently the convolutions in cotton fiber (similar to crimp in synthetic fi- fiberS properties measured by HVI are length, length unifor- ber) were found to play an important role in the friction be- mity, strength, micronaire, color, and trash. -
Start Spinning: Everything You Need to Know to Make Great Yarn Ebook
START SPINNING: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO MAKE GREAT YARN PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Maggie Casey | 120 pages | 01 Apr 2008 | Interweave Press Inc | 9781596680654 | English | Loveland, CO, United States Start Spinning: Everything You Need to Know to Make Great Yarn PDF Book To make two-ply yarn, take two singles strands or both ends of the same strand , attach them both to your spindle, and twist them around each other in the opposite direction from how you originally spun them. When you spin, you put twist into fibres so that they hold together to form a continuous thread. Navajo Plying - Making a three-ply yarn 8. Designed to appeal to the beginning spinner, tips and hints are provided that illustrate how easy, enjoyable, and relaxing spinning can be. When I was in Kenya, women spun Romney wool chiefly "in the grease," but it often locked in large amounts of dirt in the process. Spin spin spin! Covers fiber characteristics, preparation and spinning, choosing a wheel, and crafting the finished yarn into useful and attractive pieces. I Made It! Leave the original loop of fiber anchored on the spindle hook. Description If you are a knitter or crocheter looking to take the step from just using manufactured yarn to making your own this is a great book to get you started. A bunch of loose fibers will fall apart if you pull on their ends. Launching a Patreon! First and foremost, you want a balanced drop spindle that spins true. Either one will do just fine to learn on. It is also much easier to learn to spin wool than silk, or cotton and other vegetable fibres. -
Consumption on the Woolen System and Worsted Combing
CORE Metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk Provided by SNHU Academic Archive Consumption on the Woolen System and Worsted Combing: 2002 Issued June 2003 Summary MQ313D(02)-5 Current Industrial Reports Current data are released electronically on Internet and STAT-USA by subscription. The Internet for all individual surveys as they become avail- address is: www.stat-usa.gov/. Follow the able. Use: http://www.census.gov/mcd/. prompts to register. Also, you may call Individual reports can be accessed by choosing 202-482-1986 or 1-800-STAT-USA, for "Current Industrial Reports (CIR)," clicking on further information. "CIRs by Subsector;" then choose the survey of interest. Follow the menu to view the PDF file or For general CIR information, explanation of to download the worksheet file (WK format) to general terms and historical note, see the your personal computer. appendix. These data are also available on Internet through the U.S. Department of Commerce Address inquiries concerning these data to Consumer Goods Industries Branch, Manufacturing and Construction Division (MCD), Washington, DC 20233- 6900, or call Robert Lee, 301-763-4637. For mail or fax copies of this publication, please contact the Information Services Center, MCD, Washington, DC 20233-6900, or call 301-763-4673. U S C E N S U S B U R E A U U.S. Department of Commerce Economics and Statistics Administration Helping You Make Informed Decisions U.S. CENSUS BUREAU Table 1. Summary of Fibers Consumed in Woolen Spinning and Worsted Combing: 1998 to 2002 [Thousands -
Transatlantic Trade in Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: the Role of Shoddy
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 1990 Transatlantic Trade In Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role Of Shoddy David T. Jenkins University of York Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Jenkins, David T., "Transatlantic Trade In Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role Of Shoddy" (1990). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 607. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/607 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. -25- TRANSATLANTIC TRADE IN WOOLLEN CLOTH 1850-1914: THE ROLE OF SHODDY conditions. The nature and scale of the problem did not permit easy and DAVID T. JENKINS rapid solutions. The raw materials, technology and labour skills required for all-wool worsted production were quite different and a Department of Economics and Related Studies, University of York, York, rapid conversion to French methods of wool preparation and spinning was Y01 5DD, England. not quickly feasible. The British industry instead pursued a policy, initially rather slowly, of adapting its existing machinery and THE WORSTED CLOTH TRADE innovating new products, notably worsted coatings. In the two decades The factors affecting European trade and competition in worsted before the First World War it did recoup some of its previous trade cloth in foreign markets, notably the United States, in the second half losses but its level of trade did not recover to that of earlier years.2 of the nineteenth century are well recorded. -
Spinning Machinery
panty portion of support pantyhose. Future development HFP of Heberlein Maschinenfabrik AG had been develop- of air covering machine might be focused on the improve- ed as an interlacer and has been put to practical use. Since ment of nozzle in order to get even entanglement appro- it is effective for air covering, it has been supplied to air priate strength and less air consumption. covering machines of ICBT International land Guidici. In addition, a new type nozzle, called "BCF-JET", used for 7. Other Related Machineries and Equipments thick carpet yarn of 1,000 - 12,000 dtex was also ex- hibited. The shape of a slit of V-Jet exhibited by Fiber- An exhibition of machinery and equipments related to guide Limited is featured by easy processing of yarn, and manufacturing machine for chemical and synthetic fiber less accumulation of dirt. It has been put to practical use varied widely from spinnerets to measuring instrument. for air covering as well as non-sizing texturing and air Such as suction guns, false-twisting friction disk unit, mixing texturing. magnet spindles, air jet nozzles, yarn guides, rubber apron/roller etc. and measuring instruments. (3) Measuring Instruments for Filament Yarn Some exhibits are briefly summarized as follows: There were many other exhibits from manufacturers of testing instruments introducing a variety of measuring (1) Suction Guns instruments, on-line measurements, quality control An air sucker is generally used for yarn suction in systems according to the importance of quality control package mounting onto take-up winders and other similar complying with diversity of end-uses and high quality. -
Yarn 101 with Fancy Tiger
Yarn 101 with Fancy Tiger Chapter 1 - Introduction Overview (inspiring music) - Hi, I'm Jaime. - And I'm Amber. We're from Fancy Tiger in Denver, Colorado. We have a craft shop and in our shop we carry a lot of different yarns. We really love different fibers and different types of yarn. We're going to tell you today a little bit about what we look for in a yarn. - It can be intimidating and overwhelming sometimes to go into a yarn shop and see all of the different types of yarns that are available. So, today in Yarn 101, we're gonna teach you everything we know about yarn. We're gonna teach you how it's made, what to look for when picking out yarn for a project, what the different gauges are, what the different fibers are, the difference between plant fibers and protein fibers. - We'll cover a little bit of everything about yarn. (inspiring music) Chapter 2 - Natural Fibers Yarn overview - We're gonna talk about how yarn is made. This is a piece of fiber and yarn is made from lots of different fibers and it's the same whether it's a plant fiber or a protein fiber like wool. As you can see, when it's just in the fiber form, it is very easy to pull apart. So in order to make yarn twist is added to the fiber. And by adding twist it then makes it really strong. This is how yarn is made. - This is called a single. -
Spininnovation
No. 24 07.2008 € INNOVATION 5,– SPIN THE MAGAZINE FOR SPINNING MILLS COREflex® – Core Yarn Attachment for Ring Spinning Machines ACP Quality Package Premium Parts – News HP-GX 5010 New Top Weighting Arms Mill Reports: – Nahar, India – Danmao, China Berkol – Part of Bräcker Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH CONTENTS Editorial 3 COREflex® – Spinning Soft Core Yarn on Ring and Compact Spinning Machines 5 Yarn Quality Improved by ACP Quality Package 9 Premium Parts – News – Metal Washer for Magnetic Navals – CR-Coating for B 174 and B 20 SOLIDRINGS – ProFiL®Navels 15 The Theory of Compacting 19 BERKOL® – Becomes Part of Bräcker AG, Switzerland 21 NAHAR – A Saga from Farm to Fashion 23 Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet – A Practical Assessment , Nahar Industries, India 25 Manufacture of the SUESSEN Technology Components 27 Produce More and Better High Grade Worsted Fashion Fabric – Danmao Spinning Mills, China 31 HP-GX 5010 – The Top Weighting Arm for Worsted Spinning 36 Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) – Centre for Research and Development 40 SUESSEN Customer Survey 2007 44 News 46 Advertisement: – Graf, Switzerland 47 – SUESSEN Product Range 48 Impressum No. 24 – July 2008 Published by Reprint of articles with reference Price : € 5.– Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH permitted – Voucher copies desired Publication : once per year Dammstrasse 1, D-73079 Süssen, All rights reserved Information & Advertising Contact: Germany Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH SPINNOVATION, Germany Editor in Chief : Peter Stahlecker fax + 49 (0) 71 62 15-367 Title registered® at German Patent Front Cover : e-mail: [email protected] Office EliCoreTwist® – EliTwist®CompactSet internet: www.suessen.com Copyright © 2008 with COREflex ® 2 SPINNOVATION No. -
Yarn Support Programme AW 20-21
Yarn Support Programme AW 20-21 The Fibre Co. are seeking applications from independent designers for its 7th Yarn Support Programme for Autumn Winter 2020-21. We welcome submissions from designers of all races, sexualities, gender expressions, abilities, ages and body sizes. For this request we are looking for garment designs for our new brushed yarn Cirro and sock designs for our new sock yarn Amble. Interested and looking for some inspiration? We’ve put together amood board of what inspires us – remember, we are also interested in what inspires you! The Details The designer will be responsible for all aspects of self-publishing the pattern to an agreed timescale (including technical editing, test knitting, layout, photography and marketing). The Fibre Co. will provide designers with full yarn support for selected designs. We will also work with you to promote your designs to our customers and yarn shops where appropriate. All designs published with yarn support from this programme will be self-published by the designer. The designer retains full rights. The Fibre Co. will request use of images to promote the designs and collaboration where appropriate. Everyone we work with is expected to follow our Code of Conduct, so please kindly read it before submitting your design. Key Dates The deadline for submission of design proposals is 17th April 2020. We will be in touch by 30th April 2020 if your design has been selected. The publishing deadline should fall between August 2020 and February 2021. Final time lines will be agreed once your design has been accepted. Submission Requirements Please submit a one-page pdf with the following details: • Photographs of your knitted swatches showing 2 full repeats of any stitch patterns or texture work used.