No. 24 07.2008 € INNOVATION 5,– SPIN

THE MAGAZINE FOR SPINNING MILLS

COREflex® – Core Yarn Attachment for Ring Spinning Machines ACP Quality Package Premium Parts – News HP-GX 5010 New Top Weighting Arms

Mill Reports: – Nahar, India – Danmao, China

Berkol – Part of Bräcker Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH CONTENTS

Editorial 3 COREflex® – Spinning Soft Core Yarn on Ring and Compact Spinning Machines 5 Yarn Quality Improved by ACP Quality Package 9 Premium Parts – News – Metal Washer for Magnetic Navals – CR-Coating for B 174 and B 20 SOLIDRINGS – ProFiL®Navels 15 The Theory of Compacting 19 BERKOL® – Becomes Part of Bräcker AG, Switzerland 21 NAHAR – A Saga from Farm to Fashion 23 Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet – A Practical Assessment , Nahar Industries, India 25 Manufacture of the SUESSEN Technology Components 27 Produce More and Better High Grade Worsted Fashion Fabric – Danmao Spinning Mills, China 31 HP-GX 5010 – The Top Weighting Arm for Worsted Spinning 36 Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) – Centre for Research and Development 40 SUESSEN Customer Survey 2007 44 News 46

Advertisement: – Graf, Switzerland 47 – SUESSEN Product Range 48

Impressum No. 24 – July 2008 Published by Reprint of articles with reference Price : € 5.– Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH permitted – Voucher copies desired Publication : once per year Dammstrasse 1, D-73079 Süssen, All rights reserved Information & Advertising Contact: Germany Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH SPINNOVATION, Germany Editor in Chief : Peter Stahlecker fax + 49 (0) 71 62 15-367 Title registered® at German Patent Front Cover : e-mail: [email protected] Office EliCoreTwist® – EliTwist®CompactSet internet: www.suessen.com Copyright © 2008 with COREflex ®

2 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Editorial

Erich Casanova, Managing Director SUESSEN / Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director SUESSEN and Editor in Chief SPINNOVATION

Dear Readers, will find a report about some of our physics have been made, all that is manufacturing processes. We hope left is to fill a few minor gaps” Little did you will find this interesting, even if it is he know about the Theory of Relativ- When we wrote the editorial for the quite different from your kind of manu- ity and about Quantum Physics, which previous issue of our SPINNOVATION, facturing. would revolutionize physics in less than sometime before ITMA 2007 in Munich, 25 years after his dictum! our industry was going strong, and it The famous inventor Edison has said, appeared it would continue like this that invention is 10% inspiration and Sometimes people feel similar about for a long time. There were a few faint 90% perspiration! This is certainly true our industry – and they are just as mis- signs of an upcoming downturn, but in our field. We are proud to introduce taken! Who would have thought about many ignored them. to you two of our recent developments. Compact Spinning 15 years ago, who would have thought about ACP, who By now unfortunately it has become The addition of the HP-GX 5010 for would have thought about the CR coat- clear that we are in the middle of a worsted spinning now makes our family ing for opening rollers … recession of the textile industry. of top weighting arms complete. As with its ‘relatives’ the HP-GX 3010 / All of our efforts will bear no fruit, if Like all recessions, this one will come 4010, a good amount of testing (“per- you, our customer are not satisfied with to an end, too. If history is any guide, spiration”) was done, before we felt it the ”Package SUESSEN“. the present recession should not last should be offered to our customers. too long, because it is so severe. A good while ago we conducted Another outcome of much inspiration Customer Satisfaction Survey and For a manufacturer of Technology and perspiration is our ACP Qual- we have a summary report of the Components research is one tool for ity Package. Numerous field tests results. Broadly speaking, it told us survival. Also in an adverse economic have shown quality improvements, that we are on the right track, but still environment, we must continue to do which are at times astounding. While have room for improvement. We would research and development. To demon- a simple device at a first glance, we welcome your comments. strate our continuing commitment, this learned, that everything must be just issue contains an article about WST, right dimensionally for this to give the A highlight of every issue of our the Research and Development Center desired results. SPINNOVATION is the mill reports. for SUESSEN. Many of you have vis- Also in this issue, we are fortunate ited WST already, and can easily relate Open End Spinning Technology is an to present to you two reports. We are to the article, all others are cordially important part of SUESSEN’s busi- grateful to our customers, who agree invited to visit WST. ness. We are proud to present to you to share their experience with our some further improvements in our line products. R&D is useless, at most an academic of Premium Parts. exercise, if one does not have the Most of our customers stated, that the manufacturing capabilities to covert A famous British physicist said at ITMA 2007 in Munich was a success. the engineering ideas into sellable the end of the 19th century, when he The show continues, so to speak and and useable hardware of the high- advised a young man not to study this year, there will be two major textile est and most consistent quality. You physics that “all major discoveries in shows:

3 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The ITMA Asia in Shanghai will surely now the leader in compact spinning attract very large crowds from China technology with more than 2,800,000 and elsewhere. Of course, we will be EliTe® and EliTwist®Spinning Posi- there, and we request you to visit us on tions running in the world. This might our booth D 02-06 in hall W3. be a reason to celebrate, but much more it is a reason to strive even A few months later, there will be the harder to continue to earn your trust! ITME India in Bangalore. While the event is well established, the venue is We hope, you will enjoy this 24th issue new, and we are eager to find out how of our SPINNOVATION, and as usual, Bangalore – this striving city in India Austrian customer Linz Textil. Thanks to we welcome your comments on the – will handle this event. SUESSEN of him, and thanks to all of you we are articles. course will be present and we request your visit on our booth.

This year is a milestone for SUESSEN: In 1998, just ten years ago, we delivered the first EliTe®- Compact Spinning Systems to the Erich Casanova, Managing Director Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director

SUESSEN’s Vision

– Be the global Technology Component and Conversion Supplier to the yarn manufacturing industries in ring spinning and open-end rotor spinning – Create added value for our customers through reliability, productivity and quality – Ensure a sustainable and profitable growth

4 SPINNOVATION No. 24 COREflex ® – Spinning of Soft Core-Yarn on Ring and Compact Ring Spinning Machines Michael Smith, Technical Department RS, SUESSEN

For many years now, SUESSEN has ments of any quality spinner be it in 4. Feed roller adjustable in 2 planes been working successfully on core- the conventional and/or compact ring in regard to yarn path yarn attachments for ring spinning spinning department. 5. Roving and filament guided machines. by the same elements installed The new design follows stringently independently from top weighting With the development of the the “Requirement Specifications” arm EliTe®Compact Spinning System provided by our customers: 6. Traverse motion with friction-free SUESSEN designed the optional suspension to ensure jerk- and core-yarn solutions EliCore® and 1. Designed to fit in their many differ- shock-free movement EliCoreTwist®. ent types of ring spinning machine 7. Slowest traverse motion speeds Following the aggregated experiences irrespective of the top weighting 8. Suitable for long machines up to of our customers and our technologists arm used 1200 spindles our engineers redesigned the system. 2. For conventional and compact 9. 100% congruent movement of ring spinning roving and filament COREflex® is a reliable and cost- 3. Parking position for filament pack- 10. All required electronic settings to effective solution and meets all require- ages be made at a central position

Fig. 1 EliCoreTwist® – EliTwist® CompactSet with COREflex®

5 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Description of the Design One frequency-controlled gear motor for each machine side is fitted vertically 1. Unwinding Device (space saving) between the creel and SUESSEN decided for a solution with the headstock or endstock of the ring only one drive roller for the filament spinning machine (Fig. 4). The motor is cones on each machine side. This coupled directly to the drive roller. The provides the necessary independency inverter of the gear motor usually is Fig. 2 Filament Cone Adapter from any machine design. The prereq- installed into the control cabinet of the uisite for this solution is the patented basic machine. filament cone adapter (Fig. 2). The draft setting of the filament is con- tinuously variable within the draft range The filament cones are separated by of 1.8 to 4.0 – the setting is made from individual separators, which are the the central control panel. support of the cone adapters and also provide the parking position (Fig. 3). 2. Traverse Motion

The pivot position of the filament cones The COREflex® Swing Arms with is not centred to the drive rollers – guide filament feed roller are mounted on pivots of the adapters are always mov- the roving guide rail. This ensures the ing against a wear protection imbedded congruent movement of roving and in the separator. filament. The friction-free suspension of the The individual filament cone separators roving guide rail on two plate springs Fig. 3 Parking position also serve as roving guides. (Fig. 5) is a patented solution and

Fig. 4 Gear motor Fig. 5 Friction-free suspension of the roving guide

6 SPINNOVATION No. 24 3. Suspension of Swing Arm and Feed Roller

The suspension of the swing arms and roving guides on the roving guide bars makes the system completely inde- pendent from the type of top weighting arm used. Fig. 7 Feed roller

The filament feed roller is supported electronic filament control systems by plain bearings (patented solution, (optional) is possible. Fig. 7). It is adjustable to the yarn path in longitudinal and transversal direction For cleaning purposes a cleaning slot and can be set to the closest distance in the feed roller prevents scratching on to clamping line. the filament feed roller surface. Fig. 6 Traverse motion motor The filament feed roller does not touch 4. Electronics the top roller! Thus a easy visual guarantees a completely friction-free control of the filament by checking Any setting of tension draft and movement, ensuring a jerk- and shock- the rotation of the filament feed roller traverse motion is made at a central free traverse motion of roving and is possible. Anyhow the adaptation of control panel (Fig. 8; this panel also filament at slowest speed.

For the friction-free suspension we use a specially designed bearing slide for the back bottom roller.

There is one individual drive for each machine side, installed in the centre of the machine (Fig. 6).

The high gear ratio of the drives ena- bles stroke time settings freely selecta- ble between 15 minutes and 24 hours per double-stroke – the setting is made from the central control panel.

The lift (stroke) of the traverse motion may be set between 0 and 5 mm. Fig. 8 Control panel

7 SPINNOVATION No. 24 L.H.: bad setting R.H: good setting – insufficient covering excellent covering

Fig. 9 Filament feed in core-yarn production Figs. 10 and 11 Covering of filament contains the functions for the optional sive for the final quality (Fig. 9). This compact spinning applications EliVario becomes more difficult and important and EliVAControl). A magnetic sensor the smaller the fibre strand, as it is the on the front bottom roller detects the case in compact yarn spinning. reference speed. False settings result in uncovered The drives of the unwinding devices lengths of filament (Fig. 10 and 11), have a capacity of 2 x 260 Watt = and eventually in serious complaints. 520 Watt. Summary The drives of the traverse motion have a capacity of 2 x 150 Watt = 300 Watt. COREflex® is the new SUESSEN core- yarn attachment to spin soft core-yarn pendently from the top weighting arm The total rated capacity of COREflex® on any type of ring spinning machine. and guarantees simultaneous and jerk- is 820 Watt, irrespective of the machine The attachment works completely inde- free movement of the traverse motion length. of fibre strand and filament.

Feeding of the filament is the central The filament feed roller is independ- issue in the core-yarn production. ently adjustable in two planes and does not touch the front top roller. The feeding of the filament into the centre of the fibre strand before twist Setting of tension draft and traverse insertion is the crucial point in the pro- motion for COREflex® is made at a duction of core-yarns and most deci- central control panel.

8 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Yarn Quality Improved by ACP Quality Package Dr. Norbert Brunk, Head of Technics & Engineering RS, Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH

1. Preliminary Remarks draft of a ring frame drafting system is the load on the draft gearing, especially shown in Fig. 2. in the case of long machines. Today, the well-known 3-roller double- apron drafting systems of ring spinning A long break-draft zone with the small- In addition, the total system is less frames permit to draft rovings up to a est possible break-draft must definitely prone to climatic modifications, varia- total draft of 80 and more under opti- be preferred. It reduces very clearly the tions in fibre length and fluctuation in mum conditions. The task of the break- wear of top roller cots and aprons and the drafting resistance of the roving. draft zone is to introduce the sliding process of the fibres of the twisted roving. In the subsequent main zone, the fibre strand is guided between the top and the bottom aprons and drafted to the desired final count of the yarn.

This mode of operation is already very old and has hardly been modified in the last decades.

With the ACP Quality Package by SUESSEN it is now possible, how- ever, to improve the drafting process in the main zone and consequently the values of the most important yarn parameters. Fig. 1 ACP

2. The Drafting Process on the Ring Spinning Machine

2.1 The Break-Draft Short Break Long Break Draft Zone Draft Zone

The purpose of the break-draft zone is to prepare the main draft. The fibres in the roving are stretched and extended up to a degree which allows them to High Break Low Break shift in the main zone immediately after Draft Draft leaving the cradle clamping line.

The basic correlation for each individ- ual staple length between the setting of the break-draft zone and of the break- Fig. 2 Basic correlation between length of break-draft zone and level of break-draft

9 SPINNOVATION No. 24 2.2 The Main Draft

Condition: V2 > V 1 As a basic principle, each of the two pairs of rollers in a drafting zone produces a zone of fibre friction by Zones of Fibre Friction pressure1. The fibre condensation caused by this pressure does not only have a vertical effect, but spreads from both sides into the formation of fibres V2 V1 (Fig. 3).

Both fields of friction are finally respon- sible for fibre guidance and the extent of regularity produced by the draft- V2 V1 ing process. The two fields of friction should not overlap, nor should their spheres of activity be too far apart.

It is beneficial to the draft and degree Fig. 3 Zones of fibre friction of regularity achievable, if within a Key: V1 – speed of intermediate roller, V2 – speed of Delivery roller drafting zone the field of friction of the back roller pair reaches as far as possible into the drafting zone to guide Fv the fibres as long as possible. The front field of friction should be short and strong so that only the clamped fibres are drawn out of the fibre strand. This ideal is however restricted by relatively close limits in design as a result of the geometrical conditions.

V The high degree of parallelism of the fibres achieved by the preced- ing steps of drawing, doubling and imparting of twist on the roving frame has in turn the effect that the inter- fibre friction at the cradle clamping line is still high. The drafting force therefore rises considerably at first. It reaches its maximum when the first Fig. 4 Strength of inter-fibre friction Key: FV – , V – direction of draft

10 SPINNOVATION No. 24 fibres start to move and static fric- The sector in which the inter-fibre tion turns into kinetic friction. This friction of the fibre strand is at its process takes place in the main zone minimum, has a length of at least between the two aprons. As soon as 15 or 20 mm in current drafting system all fibres are moving, the drafting force designs (Fig. 5). is decreasing again considerably. This condition is reached in the front area of This explains why this sector cannot both aprons up to the clamping line of contribute any more considerably to the front roller pair. Inter-fibre friction is open undrafted bundles of fibres and very low in this area (Fig. 4). to guide shorter fibres safely. As a rule, this disadvantage cannot be compen- Fibres are therefore dispersing as a sated by even closest cradle spacers result of the drafting process. Such and very soft top roller cots. a thin formation of heavily dispers- 15...20mm*) ing fibres can absorb only insufficient 3. The ACP Quality Package pressure from the front roller pair and is therefore unable to produce a suf- With an additional point of friction ficiently large field of friction. arranged in the sensible sector of Fig. 5 Sector of low inter-fibre friction the main drafting zone, the aforesaid disadvantages can be eliminated. When the fibre strand, after leaving the double apron guidance, is deflected, the friction field produced by the front roller nipping line is increased and shifted in direction of the cradle open- ing (Fig. 6). Fibre orientation and exten- sion are improved. Parallel fibres still adhering to each other (fibre packages) can now be shifted relatively to each other even in this sector. Consequently, drafting defects are reduced, and the overall regularity of the drafting proc- ess is improved. At the same time, the tendency of the fibre strand to spread is suppressed. Inter-fibre contact is increased, and finally this results in a better utilization of fibre substance and better yarn strength.

Fig. 6 Increased inter-fibre friction zones

11 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Table 1

Spinning Ne Processing CV% IPI IPI Classimat Rkm Mill (sensitive) (tot) A 34 EliTe® 12.65 94 737 1322 18.96 EliTe®+ACP 11.00 52 307 909 19.60 B 40 EliTe® 12.25 78 457 – 22.30 EliTe®+ACP 11.18 59 264 – 23.56 C 40 EliTe® 11. 62 40 296 – 23.53 EliTe®+ACP 10.50 30 148 – 24.31 B 50 EliTe® 13.12 91 681 – 22.89 EliTe®+ACP 12.08 63 407 – 24.26 D 50 EliTe® 12.70 68 1890 81 22.23 EliTe®+ACP 11.60 42 1104 60 22.93 C 60 EliTe® 13.93 124 1224 – 20.54 EliTe®+ACP 12.60 70 666 – 20.93 D 60 EliTe® 13.36 179 2463 434 18.75 EliTe®+ACP 12.51 122 1797 278 20.12 D 80 EliTe® 13.90 155 1063 – 21.89 EliTe®+ACP 12.48 91 540 – 22.86 E 80 EliTe® 14.52 226 1227 1377 28.00 EliTe®+ACP 13.68 152 735 735 28.46 E 100 EliTe® 14.66 126 1162 – 26.51 EliTe®+ACP 13.83 84 835 – 27.49 D 114 EliTe® 16.43 448 2301 – 25.64 EliTe®+ACP 15.41 277 1573 – 26.70 EliTwist® F 40/2 EliTwist® 9.33 16 45 1234 22.74 EliTwist®+ACP 8.61 4 20 822 24.96 G 80/2 EliTwist® 12.50 45 443 632 25.48 EliTwist®+ACP 12.17 36 384 411 27.04 G 100/2 EliTwist® 15.35 286 1809 – 26.68 EliTwist®+ACP 13.71 182 1094 – 28.81 H 100/2 EliTwist® 14.62 315 1715 – 25.88 EliTwist®+ACP 13.45 192 893 – 26.99 A 160/2 EliTwist® 13.20 99 647 – 24.21 EliTwist®+ACP 12.61 67 457 – 24.97 Conventional Ring Yarn C 60 Conv. 13.16 125 857 191 19.00 ACP 11.95 89 525 131 19.48 D 80 Conv. 13.84 137 904 204 19.64 ACP 13.00 73 544 127 20.32

12 SPINNOVATION No. 24 By shifting the front field of friction top delivery roller towards the cradle opening, the apron nip can be closer. For this reason, the correct cradle design is important for top apron the interplay with the point of friction. Numerous trials have confirmed again and again that a cradle with flexible leading edge is of advantage in the combination with the bottom apron nose bars offered today, most of which have a steplike design. Such a cradle compensates the practically unavoid- able length tolerance of aprons and permits closest apron nips without the dreaded stick-slip movements of the aprons. A vast amount of trials was bottom delivery roller required to define the correct position bottom apron of the friction point in relation to the flexible leading edge of the cradle and Fig. 7 Drafted fibre strand in in the main draft zone without ACP to translate this solution into technical design (diameter, coefficient of friction of the surface). It had to be ensured in particular that for all yarn counts both fields of friction (Fig. 6) can be shifted Pin top apron as closely as possible towards each other without direct contact.

The result of the optimum combina- tion of both – Active Cradle (AC) with flexible leading edge and an optimally arranged pin (P) – is the new ACP Quality Package by SUESSEN for ring spinning drafting systems.

As shown in Fig. 6, a fibre friction pin is arranged immediately at the cradle spacer of the Active Cradle. bottom delivery roller bottom apron

Fig. 8 Drafted fibre strand in in the main draft zone with ACP

13 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The ACP Quality Package is availa- frame have been found. It has to be 5. Summary ble – for the time being – with the size pointed out, however that the correct of cradle spacers from 2 to 3 mm (in cradle setting is of utmost importance. On the traditional 3-roller double-apron steps of 0.25 mm), and is principally The ACP Quality Package clearly drafting system of the cotton ring spin- suitable for yarns of combed cotton Ne reduces both frequent yarn defects ning frame, the drafting process in the 30 and finer. Assured industrial results (IPI) and rare yarn faults (Classimat), main zone has not been optimal until for coarse yarns are not yet available. so improvements can be registered in now, due to the geometrically related all fault classes. Therefore the number long distance between the two aprons ACP Solution types can be provided for of clearer cuts is substantially reduced, and the front roller nipping line. Top Weighting Arms maintaining the clearer settings. The optimized drafting process is further The ACP Quality Package by  HP-A 310/320 reflected by an improved mass irregu- SUESSEN improves yarn quality very  HP-GX 3010 larity (Uster CV value) and results in an considerably due to enhanced inter-  PK type optimized utilization of fibre substance fibre friction in this sensible zone.  P3.1 type (yarn strength). Improvements achiev- able in every individual case depend on ACP Quality Package therefore 4. Spinning Results the raw material, staple length, roving becomes an indispensable spinning twist and total draft. accessory in the drafting system of a The ACP Quality Package clearly modern ring spinning machine. improves the drafting process. The sec- Since the above-mentioned improve- tor between the front cradle opening ments are exclusively due to the and the front roller nipping line, which improved drafting process, their influ- has so far been critical, now contrib- ence on the quality of conventional utes additionally to the drafting process ring-spun yarns, single EliTe®Yarns and in the main zone. EliTwist®Yarns is almost identical. Yarn hairiness is nearly unmodified by ACP. This substantially raises the quality level of almost all yarn parameters Table 1 compares the spinning results which are influenced by the drafting of compact yarns from various spinning 1 W. I. Budnikow, W. E. Sotikow and process. No disadvantages to the mills, once without and once with ACP. others: „Grundlagen des Spinnens“, running properties of the ring spinning Vol. I–II, Fachbuchverlag Leipzig

14 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Premium Parts – News

Michael Basting, Head Technics and Engineering OE, SUESSEN

1. Metal Washer for Magnetic Navels

Finally, the metal washer for magnetic navels is available again.

A long time ago, the former metal ver- sion of the washer for magnetic navels was substituted by a plastic washer.

The reasons for this substitution were the high effort of manufacturing the metal washer, accompanied by a high amount of second grade parts. Thus the manufacturing costs were high and the resulting price became unaccept- able for the customers.

At that time, the succeeding design of Fig. 1 Metal washer the plastic washer allowed the produc- tion of homogeneous parts at afford- speeds) are used, which can cause a drop into the rotor – causing even able costs. temperature rise at highest speeds and more damage…. eventually such deformation, too. Ever since some customers have never The new metal washer for magnetic been really satisfied with this design of New design of metal washer for navels is equipped with a flange cover- the washer. magnetic navels ing the gap between washer and navel. (Fig. 2) One of the reasons is a severe disad- The new design of the metal washer is vantage of the plastic material: not just a copy of the plastic one made Consequently no fibres can get out of metal. (Fig. 1) between navel and washer any more,  The plastic washer can deform so that the a.m. problem is eliminated. thermoplastically when exposed Considering the arguments of the to high heat customers we have revised the design Further benefits of the metal washer and have solved another problem any for magnetic navels are: This phenomenon occurs when magnetic washer always had: synthetic fibres are processed at  Thermal conduction: high speeds, if a rotor is overloaded  After an end-break the yarn end the washer is made of aluminium, with fibre mass (due to a defec- always tended to enter the gap so the thermal conduction into tive yarn detector) or if particularly between washer and navel. There the channel adapter is possible. modern navels (like the SUESSEN was a risk for the navel to be pulled (The plastic washer actually ProFiL®navels, enabling higher out of the channel adapter and to blocked the thermal conduction).

15 SPINNOVATION No. 24 2. CR-Coating for B 174 and Since their introduction the CR-coated B 20 SOLIDRINGS SOLIDRINGS have achieved a remark- able market share of 26% (for cotton The CR-coating for SOLIDRINGS applications) in the Premium Parts was introduced to the market at the spare parts sales. ITMA Munich 2007 Application for CR-coated The CR-coating combines the durabil- SOLIDRINGS ity of Diamond coated SOLIDRINGS Fig. 2 Metal washer – gap covered with the sharpness of Nickel coated Based on extended field tests with SOLIDRINGS. different raw fibre materials and Sharper teeth naturally provide a better tooth forms the preferable application yarn quality, due to: for the CR-coating is the processing of:  better opening work / fibre separation, leading to better  100% cotton yarns USTER – CV% and less imperfec-  yarn count range universal, from tions Denim to fine count knitting  improved trash extraction, leading  tooth forms B 174 and B 20 to cleaner yarns Fig. 3 Plastic washer – gap between Customers feedback approve these navel and washer These advantages finally lead to less experiences comparing DN-coated vs. clearer cuts and less ends-down. CR-coated SOLIDRINGS: The heat initiated by the yarn fric- tion can now be transmitted, keep- ing the ceramic surface cooler and enabling higher production, espe- cially with synthetic fibres / blends.

 Reasonable manufacturing costs: modern manufacturing methods and design allow cost-neutral production of the metal washer for magnetic navels compared to the plastic washer.

The new metal washer for magnetic navels, a good product with obvious benefits based on suggestions of you, our customers. Fig. 4 16 SPINNOVATION No. 24 On the other hand this satiny surface structure is not suitable when process- ing PES, PES-blends or Viscose. The spin finishes of such fibres tend to stick to the surface structure producing built-ups – finally causing fibres to col- lect to this built-ups.

CR-coating

CR-coating for B174 and B20 SOLIDRINGS. A perfect application for processing 100% Cotton yarns from Denim to fine Fig. 5 A: shape of N- and CR-coated tooth, B: shape of DN-coated tooth knitting yarn counts. The CR-coating enables best yarn Denim spinning mills recognize more resulting yarn quality and production and production parameters for a long trash extraction and increased yarn parameters. service-life. strength and a lower end-break level The sharpness of the SOLIDRING due to better opening work. teeth is the same with N- or CR coating 3. ProFiL®Navels In some case higher production speeds (see Fig.1). were possible. As well the new generation of navels, The advantage for the CR-coated ProFiL®Navels were also introduced Knitwear manufacturers see a cleaner SOLIDRING vs. the N-coating is its life- at the ITMA Munich 2008. and more even appearance of the span, which is at least equal to those of knit-fabric, while the supplying spinning Diamond-coated SOLIDRINGS. During the phase of development and mills recognize better yarn qualities field testing all data were evaluated to with less imperfections and less end- CR-coated SOLIDRINGS for provide some application guide lines breaks. synthetic fibre materials and for the spinning mills. Viscose These guide lines turned out to be very CR-coating vs. N-coating successful, the customers to pre- Compared to the very smooth surface cisely found the correct navel for their In terms of yarn quality a difference of a Nickel-coating the CR-coating has demands. (See Fig. 7 – example for between N- and CR-coated SOLID- a more satiny surface structure – this cotton application) RINGS never was expected, nor deter- is benefiting the processing of cotton mined with any laboratory or field test. fibres. Four different ProFiL®navels have been introduced: ProFiL®4, ProFiL®6, This result is quite obvious, since the The surface stays clean and no deposit ProFiL®S and ProFiL®SM sharpness of the teeth is responsible built-up is observed. (for further information please refer to for the degree of opening work and the SPINNOVATION No. 23).

17 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Of course controlled by the market demands for fine count knitting yarns, the most successful ProFiL®navels have been the ProFiL®6 and ProFiL®SM.

 The ProFiL®6 achieved especially Fig. 6 ProFiL®Navels at SE9 spinning machines an aver- age production increase of about tion. (Consequently the MIMA 2 and therefore enabling spinnability, 9% (vs. the former used standard should deserve to be listed as the ProFiL®navels enable (demand) navels), maintaining the yarn quality ProFiL®navel, too.) higher spinning speeds. and end-break level of former lower Yarn quality as well is related to the production with standard navels. What is the success story of the spinning tension, the higher the tension  The ProFiL®SM – according to the ProFiL®navels? is the worse the yarn quality becomes. application guide preferably used Since the ProFiL®navels maintain for weaving yarns – as well had a Due to new designs in the navel geo- the level of spinning tension at higher very positive impact in knitting yarn, metry and nowadays optimized ceramic speeds the yarn quality is not nega- too. technology these new navels reduce tively affected – on the other hand when This especially on the newest the spinning tension compared to the producing at the same speeds, like with Open-End machines when exceed- former designs of standard navels. the standard navels, the resulting yarn ing speeds over 130,000 rotor rpm. quality improves due to less spinning Since a certain level of yarn tension is tension. At speed levels less than 130,000 rotor required to ensuring the twist impact rpm still the ProFiL®6 navel for knitting yarns is preferably considering the end- break level.

For viscose applications the ProFiL®S Hairiness as well as the MIMA 2 navel were very

high ProFiL SM successful. ProFiL 6 ProFiL S

 When processing European vel Viscose brands, the ProFiL®S navel provides a very smooth yarn rpm - le with best yarn quality at an accept- KN4 2R4 Hairiness Hairiness

able end-break level vs. any stand- mal

nor KN4 R4 KS-M ard navel.

 When processing Asian Viscose KS 2R4 KS brands, the MIMA 2 navel achieves KS-M best yarn quality and produc- Knitting Weaving Application 18 Fig. 7 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The Theory of Compacting

Peter Stahlecker, MD Spindelfabrik SUESSEN GmbH

Compact Spinning has firmly estab- 1. The pneumatic effect It is easy to imagine that the airflow lished itself as THE method of making tries to move the fibre strand towards superior ring yarn, with SUESSEN’s Fig 1 shows the airflow as it has been the centre of the slot. The width of the EliTe® being the world’s leading calculated (using FEM methods). fibre mass is reduced; a step in the system. The drawing might require some correct direction. This effect is present explanations: imagine the EliTube cut regardless of the inclination of the slot. The goal of compacting is to align along the line AA, as indicated in the Adding a “lid” on top of the slot, as the fibres in parallel and very close small picture in the right hand bottom done by some systems, may enhance position to each other immediately corner of Fig 1. The arrows indicate it. prior to the twist insertion. This fibre the direction of the airflow as it enters arrangement will give compact yarn the slot. This effect merely pushes the fibres with all its characteristics. The elimina- closer together without any impact of tion of the spinning triangle is merely a them being parallel. consequence of this arrangement.

Let me try to explain what is actually going on in the compacting zone.

All successful compacting systems are characterized by the following: a.) Between exit of the normal 3-roller drafting system and a nipping line there is a compacting zone b.) This zone consists of a suction tube with a slot inclined relative to the direction of the yarn path. Negative pressure is applied at this slot. c.) A perforated transportation means (e.g. lattice apron, metal drum with holes) is used to move the AA fibres across this inclined slot.

There are two nearly independent physical effects which help to achieve the goal mentioned above:

Fig. 1

19 SPINNOVATION No. 24 2. The effect due to the inclination d of the slot (Fig 2) B A

This is a dynamic effect. Assume, fibre A has left the front nipping point. Its front portion is now on the lattice apron (perforated drum, or the like) and up stream down stream moving with the speed of the lattice edge of the edge of the apron. As its “head” H crosses the slot slot upstream edge of the slot nothing at all happens. V0

VH It gets interesting when it tries to cross the downstream edge:

V0

The suction applied to the slot does not allow the fibre to cross the edge. It is therefore forced to move along the edge. Fig. 2

Now by the law of vectorial addition of will align itself closely to fibre A, as they the optimum angle α, the suction speed (we are still well below Einstein’s move to the end of the slot. pressure and the properties of the Theory of Relativity…) the speed of various fibres. the portion of fibres along the edge Thus, a fibre bundle having a certain increases to width upon leaving the front nipping If the compacting system allows V0, the point, and with the individual fibres speed of the perforated means to be VO V = > V neither parallel nor stretched, is trans- varied relative to the speed of the front H sin(α ) O formed into a bundle where the fibres roller, the stretching of the fibres may with α < 90° are perfectly parallel and close to each be controlled further. other. This increase in speed of the portion Much of these important details are of fibre moving along the downstream Naturally, the two effects complement not yet understood well theoretically, edge causes the fibres to be gently each other, but it is obvious that the and – as so often in spinning – one stretched. second effect is several orders of mag- must rely on experience, and on finds nitude larger than the first one; also surprises every once in a while! Now, imagine a fibre B coming out of only the second effect stretches the the front nipping point at a distance d fibres at the same time. SUESSEN’s EliTe® has the largest from fibre A. It suffers the same fate so population of any compacting system to speak. It will also be unable to cross As may be imagined, there is a and therefore SUESSEN technical the downstream edge of the slot and complicated relationship between people have very extensive experience.

20 SPINNOVATION No. 24 BERKOL®– Becomes Part of Bräcker AG, Switzerland

Josef Herger, PM and Customer Service, Berkol

Effective on January 1st, 2008 increasingly competing on the market breaks, minimize lap formation and Bräcker AG, Switzerland extended with the two established systems of as a result reduce downtime, result- their business activities by integrat- ring and rotor spinning. ing in higher productivity and thus ing the business unit BERKOL® from profitability. Using the best method of Huber+Suhner AG, Switzerland. The maintenance intervals of top roll- maintaining cots influences directly ers increased substantially since the their performance and the expense There are various suppliers both of introduction of the air-jet and various associated with their maintenance and cots & aprons and of machines for compact spinning systems. Soft cots replacement. their maintenance. But only Bräcker are recommended for production AG is supplying cots & aprons as well of high quality yarns today. It is well The fully automatic BGS grinding as machinery for their maintenance known and apparent that the drafting system stands for a new generation from its own production facilities in process of the compacting systems is of grinding machines that meets the Switzerland, all under the brand name wearing out cots of the front line top highest demands. The BGS grinding BERKOL®. rollers faster than the conventional ring system has been specially developed spinning. for the fully automatic grinding of top BERKOL® top roller grinding rollers for ring spinning, all existing system BGS BERKOL® has made a timely response compact systems, roving- and air-jet with its automatic grinding system. spinning machines. The concept is New spinning processes are conquer- Only regular and efficient grinding of based upon a modular design, which ing the market and confronting com- top rollers guarantees production of can be adapted to customer’s specific ponent suppliers with new challenges. high quality yarns. Perfectly buffed and requirements. Compact and Air-jet spinning are maintained top rollers reduce yarn

Fig. 1

21 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Contact: Bräcker AG Obermattstrasse 65, 8330 Pfaeffikon / ZH Switzerland [email protected], www.bracker.ch

Grinding and maintenance of EliTops of the SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning System

Experience has shown that the quality of the maintenance of the front top roller and the EliTe®Roller of the EliTop is influencing the performance of the EliTops and subsequently its yarn qual- ity produced.

Especially the essential outside diame- ter relation of the 2 top rollers needs to be kept constant and precise in order to achieve the required tension draft.

Fig. 2 Grinding complete EliTops, i.e. with- out disassembling the 2 rollers, is not recommended by BERKOL®, as the required parallelism and concentric- ity of the 2 rollers in such a proce- dure cannot be achieved. Spinning Mills having a larger amount of spindles equipped with SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning System con- firm this fact.

As the gears of the EliTop rollers have to be maintained in regular intervals, it is recommended to grind the 2 top roll- ers individually on the fully automatic BERKOL® grinding system BGS series equipped with measuring module. Fig. 3

Both cots of the top roller are being falls short of the minimal amount of Maintaining your EliTops with the measured simultaneously before the 0.15 mm to be removed, the top roller BERKOL® grinding system BGS offers grinding process, thus ensuring that is being rejected and sorted out, so you substantial cost savings due to indeed both cots are being buffed and that only perfectly and correctly buffed automated grinding and assures best that a minimal amount of rubber is top rollers are being fed to the maga- performance thanks to its control being removed. In case a cot diameter zine; ready to use! functions!

22 SPINNOVATION No. 24 NAHAR – A Saga from Farm to Fashion

K. C. Oberoi, Venus Textile Systems Private Limited, India

The NAHAR Group of Companies,  More than 100,000 linear meters the conversation quickly turns to the headquartered in Ludhiana (North of fabric are produced on NAHAR’s business, and you notice quickly that India) is a vertically integrated, well- looms Mr. Oswal has a complete understand- established and highly respected  More than 10,000 shirts and trouser ing even of small technical details. textile conglomerate. They have a large are produced in one day Soon you notice, that you are meeting portfolio of products, ranging from spin- a person with a clear vision and the ning to knitting to weaving, processing Quality being on top of NAHAR’s will, the means and the energy to make and garmenting. All this is done on the priority list, the testing laboratories are his vision come true. He is truly an latest state of the art machinery. equipped with all the modern testing industry leader, not a follower. facilities needed to ensure uniform and As one of the largest spinning high quality of the output. Starting out as a tiny hosiery and mills in India, the group has over worsted unit in Ludhiana it was incor- 500,000 ring spindles, including about The emphasis, which NAHAR puts on porated as a private limited company 65,000 SUESSEN EliTe®Compact quality, is further evident by the fact in 1980, and – a short three years Spindles and 5,000 rotors. They are that all production facilities are IS/ISO later – as a public limited company. located in various parts of India. 9001-2000 certified by the demanding Bureau of Indian Standards. Mr. Oswal’s leadership qualities built The stand-alone textile complex in the present NAHAR Group of Compa- Lalru (Punjab), sitting on a piece of Meet Mr. Kamal Oswal, Vice Chairman nies from those modest beginnings in a land of more than 550 acres, is prob- and Managing Director in his modern, short 25 years. ably one of the best anywhere in the functionally designed head quarter in world. Ludhiana. It is obvious that Mr. Kamal NAHAR’s outstanding success is Oswal is a busy man with a tight sched- further evidenced by the official rec- The range of the products this com- ule, where time is at a premium. After ognition as an Export House, followed pany makes, as well as the quantity of a very short wait, Mr. Oswal comes to by Recognized Export House by the the output is mind-boggling: see us. While it is clear that he has no Government of India, all in the short time to waste, he appears relaxed, but span of 8 years after incorporation.  Yarns ranging from Ne 6 to Ne 120  Made from cotton (carded and Good leadership “breeds” excellent combed), blends with synthetics teams of dedicated professionals, and and 100% synthetic yarns this is clearly evident the minute one  Grindle yarns, space dyed yarns, enters any of the production facilities. slub yarns, core spun yarns, high Everyone we have met there is dedi- twist and reverse twist yarns, and of cated, hard working and very skilful. course compact yarns  Over 30,000 kg/day of knitted Mr. Oswal knows that we have only one fabrics, produced on circular and environment, and we must preserve flat bed knitting machinery it for posterity. Since for Mr. Oswal  More than 40,000 pieces of knitted good ideas must become reality, all his garments/day are produced Fig.1 Mr. Kamal Oswal facilities are ISO 14 001 certified, for

23 SPINNOVATION No. 24 good and responsible environmental management – again by the Bureau of Indian Standards.

Many international brands – GAP, Arrow, Old Navy, Pierre Cardin, Van Heussen, IZAD, Quick Silver to name a few – regularly source their needs with NAHAR.

In addition, NAHAR launched their own brand labels, Monte Carlo, Canterbury and Cotton County, which have proven to be very successful. (The author of this article can wholeheartedly attest to the quality of the shirts and trousers!)

The cooperation between NAHAR and SUESSEN began some four years ago, Fig. 2 Nahar Industrial Enterprises and has proven successful. SUESSEN of course feels honoured to count NAHAR as a customer, and Mr. Kamal Oswal tells us that he is satisfied with the performance of SUESSEN’s products and services. His satisfac- tion is evidenced by the fact that NAHAR has ordered 65,000 EliTe® and EliTwist®Compact Spindles for LMW ring spinning frames.

At NAHAR one knows that standing still means falling behind, and therefore further installations of compact spin- ning are in the pipeline.

For SUESSEN, the recognition by Mr. Kamal Oswal and his company does not mean, SUESSEN will rest on its laurels! It is a challenge to earn this trust every day! Fig. 3

24 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet – A Practical Assessment Arun Nijhawan, General Manager, Nahar Industrial Enterprises, India

The spinner earlier has always been Ring spinning as the most acceptable in 2004, converting 2 ring frames perplexed with the simple question yarn spinning system has seen several and in due course of time, realizing whether he was over-spinning, or changes to improve quality and produc- the advantages of the system and under-spinning with the cotton provided tivity within the course of time but the the market acceptability of the yarn to him. He was always asking himself changes so far could not satisfy the and end product, we ordered for as a sensitive spinner whether he was spinner’s needs. total capacity for EliTe®CompactSet doing justice to the cotton while he was and EliTwist®CompactSet on spinning a yarn count – in terms of cost The revolutionary change came in 35,000 spindles. effectiveness, productivity, quality and 1999/2000 when SUESSEN and oth- sales revenue. ers introduced their compact spinning The yarn results achieved with systems globally; the full exploitation of SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Yarn Ne Cotton being a natural fibre has a cotton fibre in terms of quality, produc- 50/1 and Ne 40/1 compared to normal considerable variation in its properties tivity, end breakage rate became pos- spun combed yarn of same counts are even in the same category – which is sible and gave relief to the spinner. as tabulated in table No. 1. known to all. The spinner as a team leader had to optimize his process to Compact spinning (the system ensures The results achieved with SUESSEN get the best yarn from his cotton, but optimum utilization of costly raw mate- EliTwist®Compact Yarn Ne 40/2 com- the question: “Well, am I doing this rial with minimum loss and damage pared to normal TFO yarn Ne 40/2 are right?” always was coming to his mind. to the fibre) improves the yarn quality as per table 2. He had been in search all the time of tremendously, most importantly on the a key process answering this highly hairiness aspect. These tables speak about the superior important question. quality achieved with compact yarn We introduced SUESSEN’s and EliTwist® Yarn and apart from this EliTe®Compact Spinning System quality improvement there is gain in

Table 1 (Cone Stage) Count (Ne) 50/1 CW EliTe® 50/1 CW normal 40/1 CW EliTe® 40/1 CW normal Count 50.x4 50.12 40.x0 40.12 Count CV% 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.24 CSP 3265 2985 3350 2925 U% 10.85 11.02 9.65 10.12 Thin places (–50%)/km 4 9 0 1 Thick places (+50%)/km 25 34 15 20 Neps (+200%)/km 61 110 40 63 Total IPI 90 125 55 84 Hairiness H 3.48 5.12 3.9 5.23 RKM 20.84 18.78 20.24 18.6 RKM CV% 6.x4 6.95 – – Elongation E 4.95 4.4 4.75 3.98 S3 231 920 475 1350

25 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Contact: Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ludhiana – 141003, Punjab, India E-Mail: [email protected] Web: www.owmnahar.com

Table 2 (Cone Stage) Count (Ne) 40/2 CW EliTwist® 40/2CW T.F.O. stand by the mill for quick help with Count 20.10 20.14 queries and problems. Count CV% 1.2 1.24 CSP 3634 2825 The added advantages we find with U% 7.04 7.62 compact spinning systems is a clean Thin places (–50%)/km 0 0 atmosphere in department, better yarn Thick places (+50%)/km 3 2 realization because of less invisible Neps (+200%)/km 4 8 loss, increased workers’ job satisfaction Total IPI 7 10 due to less fatigue while maintaining Hairiness H 4.56 7.13 negligible end breakage rate in ring RKM 21.02 18.50 frame and a sense of mental satisfac- Elongation E 5.96 4.08 tion having worked with a sophisticated S3 319 845 instrument. production in ring frame by applying enhanced the brand value of the prod- Of course, nonetheless, we feel a optimum twist multiplier for a particular uct because of its excellent contribution continuous training to the technicians, cotton, say: even with a twist multiplier to the fabric structure in terms of workmen, and laboratory personnel of 3.5 one is able to spin the yarn. is necessary to get best results from  extra smoothness on fabric surface the system and for this a joint venture Compared to TFO yarn, there are  resistance against abrasion and from SUESSEN and mills manage- considerable savings when producing pilling ment is the demand of the time and the EliTwist®: As assembly winding and the  dense fabric endeavor should continue. TFO process are eliminated, the cost  superior draping characteristics of power and labor associated with  lustrous appearance of fabric 1 Under-spinning: Using too good a cotton these processes is eliminated. Also because of excellent dye pick-up. for a given yarn count the production rate of the ring spinning Over-spinning: The opposite. process is more than double. We have replaced classical T.F.O. double yarn in certain market clusters We are marketing a very popular brand with EliTwist® Yarn completely. In some of garments. The compact yarn has other markets the EliTwist® Yarn has replaced the requirement of gassed hosiery yarn.

We find SUESSEN EliTe® and EliTwist®Systems very user friendly, easy to maintain and consistent viz-a- viz certain other compacting systems available in the market. Though rarely needed, SUESSEN Service Teams Fig. 1 Fig. 2

26 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Manufacture of the SUESSEN Technology Components

Achim Licht, Head Manufacture & Logistics

SUESSEN products are designed and manufactured based on our customers’ suggestions and the ideas of our R&D Centre WST – and they are appreci- ated all over the world. Developed by creative engineers, manufactured with passion on high-end manufacturing plants applying unique methods, our products are apt to bring about high customer benefit through productivity, reliability and quality. This demand of Fig. 1 Production plant our customers has top priority in our production plant at Süssen/Germany, where the SUESSEN technology com- ponents are manufactured (Fig. 1).

Our philosophy of producing technol- ogy for the textile industry focuses on:  Utmost precision  Innovative manufacturing technolo- gies  Intelligent quality assurance and Fig. 2 Proportions ((Englische Beschriftung fehlt!)) quality management  Professional training and continuing training on the job of our employees

We generally understand utmost preci- NC Programming sion as the constant and consistent Simulation machining of components and struc- tural groups in the micrometer range. Drawing CAD One micrometer is the thousandth part of a millimetre, i.e. 0.001 mm (a human hair for example has a diameter of Programming in the Machine

0.060 mm). The manufacturing toler- Final Product ances of the most important SUESSEN technology parts are in the range of Fig. 3 Integrated production 0.25 to 10 µm (Fig. 2). equipment. CNC means “computer and equipment. Based on the CAD We achieve this high precision by using numerical control”, i.e. a computer drawing, the machining program, high-end CNC machines and other program is controlling the machines which accounts for all the parameters

27 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Fig. 4 Automated production lines

required, is programmed at a pro- So handling errors are virtually impos- industrial practice of our customers’ grammer’s workplace, controlled and sible, and our customers can benefit mills world-wide (Fig. 5). optimized by means of computer from unchanging and consistent yarn simulation. The program is finally trans- parameters in every spinning position All our activities are subject to a ferred by means of encoded radio data (Fig. 4). sophisticated quality assurance transmission to the relevant machine or system, which ensures and controls equipment to produce the technology Development and application of unique quality, starting with development/ components with high and consistent and innovative SUESSEN manufactur- design, over raw material analysis and precision (Fig. 3). ing technologies make the difference through all steps of production up to to conventionally produced technology final inspection. This system is ISO To ensure this precision at any time, components. Our “original components” 9000 based, but we have adjusted fully automatic systems in form of stand out for their high quality and and completed it to meet the specific robots are applied in many positions. extremely long service-life in everyday requirements of our customers. Conse- quently, a consistent quality system is at our customers’ and our disposal. At Manufacture Technology numerous milestones between product development, first laboratory tests and wide-scale field tests, extensive inspec- tion is made to analyse and verify the expectations made in a product. As soon as all hurdles have been jumped, the SUESSEN technology component is released for series manufacture and for sale.

Supervision of our series production Manufacture Technology starts with raw material purchase; only certified suppliers deliver the raw mate- Fig. 5 rial, which in many cases is specifically

28 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Fig. 6 Material analysis ((Englische Beschriftung fehlt!))

SUESSEN, and the corresponding to extensive analysis and measure- Depending on the type of manufacture, certificate. Right in the goods receiving ment, which is subsequently evaluated. production is controlled in different department, the material is subjected (Figs. 6, 7, 8) ways. All steps of manufacture are defined in detail by process instruc- 1 NODAL SOLUTION FEB 1 2002 STEP=1 19:03:20 SUB =1 MX tions. Each step is ruled by a separate TIME=1 SEQV (AVG) DMX =15.18 2.091 SMN =2.091 SMX =1362 Y 153.239 inspection instruction detailing the Z X 304.387 455.535 amount of inspection to be carried out. 606.683 757.831 All inspections relating to manufactur- 908.979 1060 ing processes are recorded by our pro- 1211

1362

MN duction planning and quality assurance

FB06 Belastungsfeder 810.1128 system and used for statistics. Data Fig. 7 Spring measurement Fig. 8 Hardness measurement for each dimension, each process step

Fig. 9 Statistical process monitoring

29 SPINNOVATION No. 24 a recognised profession like production technologist. Training comprises theory and practice and takes place partly in our training workshop, but also actively in our manufacturing plant.

As a matter of course, all colleagues in manufacture, administration and devel- Fig. 10 Surface naval Fig. 11 Measuring cradle opment/design are trained at regular intervals. So we can ensure that apart from applying modern and state-of- the-art equipment, all our employees always maintain an up-to-date standard of knowledge (Fig. 13).

In addition, we at SUESSEN benefit from a very dense network of other well-known companies of the machine Fig. 12 Measuring SOLIDRING / EliTube tool industry and automotive indus- try (Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Schuler, can therefore be recalled consistently All our equipment, machines, systems Trumpf, etc.) and their sub-suppli- at any time from a central data store and methods are just as good as the ers in close vicinity to our location in (Fig. 9). employees using them. This is the rea- Süssen. son why we attach great importance to In addition, we use special measuring our employees’ training, which we carry To make a long story short: Based methods designed for SUESSEN to out in our training centre at Süssen. on our clear and strict manufacturing control certain quality features of our We distinguish between professional philosophy, we are producing “technol- products. These tailor-made measuring training of apprentices and continuing ogy for the textile industry” day after methods and characteristics ensure on-the-job training of our employees. day in our production plant in Süssen/ a high and consistent quality, which Germany, and this by now for over practically cannot be copied by other In professional training we train our 80 years. manufacturers (Figs. 10, 11, 12). apprentices during three years to learn

Fig. 13 Apprenticeship / postgraduate education

30 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Produce More and Better High Grade Worsted Fashion Fabric

Xu Rong Liang, President Danmao Spinning Mills, China

The 16,000-spindle worsted yarn past, with the product quality and grade products and innovation becoming a production line of Danmao Textile improving quickly, the increasingly trend. produced a total of 6.2 million square intense competition, and R&D in new metres of fabrics in 2007, 85% of which were sold to Europe, America, Japan, Korea, Australia, South America, Hong Kong, Taiwan and other countries and regions.

Aomeiya (Danmao brand name) worsted wool fabric was listed as “Jiangsu Famous Brand Prod- uct”, “Jiangsu Hi-Tech Product” and “National Inspection Exempt Product”.

The Company was appointed “National Worsted Wool Spinning Fashion Fabric Development Base” by National Textile Product Develop- ment Centre in 2006, awarded “China Textile Industry Association Price of New Product Development”, and listed as “Top 10 Enterprises of Comprehensive Competitiveness in China Wool Spinning Industry” by China Textile Industry Association in 2007.

With the development of the global economy, the consumption in clothing increases continuously, and the trend of products moves more and more towards high grade, light, casual, com- fortable, fashionable, individualized, ease of maintenance worsted fabrics.

China is gradually changing into a large textile country more in the strength of quality than merely the quantity in the Fig. 1

31 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Contact: Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co. Danyang, Jiangsu, China Phone +86 511 6476177 Fax +86 511 6473978

To meet the requirements on develop- The SUESSEN EliTe®Compact thin places and neps. EliTe®Yarn and ment, expand the scale and improve Spinning System is a “negative pres- EliTwist®Yarns are featured with the the quality and execute the strategy sure” compacting device installed in following characteristics: of differentiation and individualization, front of the front (delivery) roller of the we introduced SUESSEN’s EliTe® and ring frame, consisting of the fan, nega- 1) With the improved spinning EliTwist®Compact Spinning Technol- tive pressure suction pipe, EliTube, strength, the designed spinning ogy from 2001, and started spinning lattice apron and a pair of EliTe®Top twist can be reduced to achieve the the EliTe®Compact Yarn, resulting in Roller to form a negative pressure softer yarn, high yarn output and optimization and improvement of the compacting zone during spinning. The low energy consumption; product design and the entire produc- fibre strands led out from the front 2) The yarn breaks are reduced to tion process, as well as the develop- roller nip, when passing the negative improve the production efficiency ment and production of worsted high pressure nesting zone, shall be tightly and the finished product rate; grade fashion fabrics. The advantages compacted into the compact bands 3) The fly generation is reduced and of the EliTe®Compact Spinning System, with fibres parallel with each other the production environment is especially in improving the product and the fibre end in close contact with improved; quality, substantially promoted the the strand, to eliminate the spinning 4) The spun yarn can be used as sin- reputation and rapid development of triangle. gle warp and single weft to reduce Danmao Textile. the production cost and greatly EliTwist®Technology is siro spinning improve the spinning efficiency; 1. Introduction of compact spinning based on EliTe®, in which the 2-roving 5) The sizing is not required in weav- technology and equipment feeding device is adopted, for 2 rovings ing to reduce the processing costs; to feed in with a spacing; 2 drafted 6) The woollen fabric is in bright finish- In conventional ring spinning, when strands pass the V-shaped nega- ing, good lustre, high strength and roving is drafted and twisted into yarn, tive pressure suction port to form the performing excellently in regard of the fibre strand will form a spinning compact strands under the negative fuzzing and pilling. triangle. The uncontrolled fibres at the pressure, and then they are combined edge of the spinning triangle will gener- and twisted to form the yarn. Either EliTe® and EliTwist®Spinning can ate the fly, or the fibre ends sticking out compact strand is provided with the greatly improve the quality and grade will cause higher yarn hairiness. The individual twist with the same direc- of the worsted fabrics, reduction of fibres at the edge and in the middle tion of the yarn due to transmission of costs and others, so we introduced within the spinning triangle are under the yarn twist, then the EliTwist® yarn 12 EliTe®Compact Spinning Sets the different strain during spinning. similar to the ply yarn is formed. (5,000 spindles) and 2 EliTwist®Sets The fibres under higher strain will (800 spindles) on Shanghai Erfangji break first, so the yarn strength will be EliTe®Spinning eliminates the spinning EJ519 spinning frames. The investment affected and the fibres at the edge of triangle and provides the EliTe®Yarn was greatly saved and the costs were the triangle cannot be twisted smoothly with advantages unrivalled in the reduced significantly. into yarn, affecting the yarn evenness common ring spinning yarn, with less and elasticity. hairiness, high strength, better elon- gation and elasticity, and significant improvement in CV value, thick and

32 SPINNOVATION No. 24 2. Development and production We are using EliTe®Compact Spinning Spring/Summer China Trendy of compact spinning products for spinning 120S/2 and other high Fabric yarn count EliTe®Yarns, which greatly  wool/polyester fine count sin- With SUESSEN’s technical and improve the quality and grade of our gle warp and single weft valitine technological support we started products to exquisite, gentle, tender (product number35645-1/-2) was to use the EliTe®Compact Spinning and luxury products. awarded with 1st Prize in Weerjia Technology to optimize the spinning Cup competition of the wool spin- process and the low temperature Our compact yarn tweed and 100% ning industry in China dyeing. Together with the introduction wool two-side elastic tweed were  fine count single warp and sin- of the rapier looms from Italy suitable listed as 2005/06 Fall/Winter trendy gle weft valitine (product number for weaving fine yarn count and single fabric2), and our fine count 100% wool E352073) was awarded the 1st Prize warp and single weft fabrics, the state- tweed (product number E236016) was in 2007 Weierjia New Product of-art dyeing and finishing equipment, awarded the 2nd Prize in 2007 Weierjia Assessment 1). innovation in process, development New Product Assessment 1). and design of product types, etc., we The output of single warp and single started the production of high grade We have developed various fine count weft worsted fabrics are high, and no fashion fabrics. single warp and single weft worsted plying or winding is required in spin- fabrics with different raw materials, ning, to reduce the production cost EliTe®Compact Spinning showed the spun yarn up to 60s/1 and many and improve the efficiency. In addi- expected advantages over the conven- functions, featuring light and thin tion, the development, production and tional ring spinning. The yarn even- structure, soft and smooth hand, high technology of high count single warp ness was significantly improved in the tightness and elasticity, good suspen- and single weft worsted fabrics shall Company. The yarn became obviously sion, high permeability and woollen greatly facilitate the development and bright, and the hairiness reduced by up finish, which are ideal fabrics for high production of worsted wool fabrics, to 80%; grade suits, casuals, fashion wears, also promote the development and etc., favoured by customers and keep production of single warp and single 1) The yarn strength was improved by the pace with the development trend weft product types, spun yarn weaving, 10 to 20%; of the high grade fashion worsted new spinning technologies and relevant 2) The yarn evenness (USTER CV %) fabrics: equipments. was improved by about 10%, thin places decreased by 20–40%, thick  fine count single warp and single To better develop and utilize the special places by 30–40% and neps by weft 100% wool valitine (product animal fibre resources in China, we 60–80%; number 25498) and wool/poly- have started the development and 3) The abrasion proof performance ester fine count single warp and production of multi-component worsted was improved significantly, fuzzing single weft tweed (product number fabrics with wool and some high-grade and pilling of the single warp types, 331152) were listed as 2005/2006 special animal fibres, including cash- especially woolen types, decreased Fall/Winter China Trendy Fabric mere, rabbit hair, camel wool, spun significantly, to realize the single  fine count single warp and single silk, etc., according to guideline of 11th warp weaving. weft 100% wool valitine (product Five Year Wool Spinning Development number 25945 ) was listed as 2006 Planning. With the compact spinning

33 SPINNOVATION No. 24 technology established in the produc- We also adopted the compact spinning 3. Compact spinning technology tion process and technology of high in development and production of fine promoting development of grade special animal fibre worsted count high twist worsted fabrics, keep- enterprises fabrics, we applied for the patents for ing in pace with the trend of high grade development and production of special worsted fashion fabrics: With introduction of SUESSEN animal fibre fabrics: EliTe®Compact Spinning equipment  100% wool high twist weft elastic with the advantages of the compact  Cashmere serge was listed as 2005 tweed was awarded 2006/07 Trendy spinning and EliTwist®Spinning, we Spring/Summer Trendy Fabric2) Fabric2 substantially improved the product  machine washing cashmere tweed  wool-terylene high twist stripe quality and grade and make great was listed as 2006/07 Fall/Winter valitine was listed as 2008 Spring/ achievements in product development. Trendy Fabric2) Summer Candidate Trendy Fabric3) We have developed and produced  cashmere rabbit hair serge was  wool-terylene high twist tweed the pure wool, spun silk, cashmere, listed as 2007/08 Fall/Winter Trendy (product number E334780-1) was mohair, hemp, bamboo fibre, Tencel, Fabric2) awarded with 2nd Prize in 2007 viscose, lycra, XLA, T400, Sorona  silk/wool tweed and wool-terylen- Weerjia New Product Assessment1) Coolmax Thermolite stainless steel hemp ironing tweed were listed  100% wool high twist tweed wire Kuralon and other functional fibres as 2008/09 Fall/Winter Candidate (product number E236570P2) was for high grade fashion fabrics, in the Trendy Fabric 2) awarded with 3rd Prize in 2007 forms of single warp and single weft,  silk-wool herringbone was listed as Weerjia New Product Assessment1). fine count light and thin, fine count 2008 Spring/Summer Candidate high twist, special animal fibres, etc., Trendy Fabric3).

Development of special animal fibre fabrics will significantly increase the technical content of wool spinning products and uplift the taste and grade, further promote the economic growth and increase the benefit of the com- panies, spur the new product develop- ment and improve the competitive edge of the enterprises. Furthermore the project will help adjust the structure of the special animal fibre products in China and upgrade the wool spinning products and their production technol- ogy.

Fig. 2

34 SPINNOVATION No. 24 We plan to introduce additional 5000 spindles of SUESSEN EliTe®CompactSet to form the 10,800- spindle large scale EliTe®Compact Spinning production line for high grade worsted fabrics on a higher platform, brand building and increase of shares in the major international markets. We will make all efforts in continuous inno- vation and new product development. We strive to become one of the enter- prises with comprehensive competitive- ness in the wool spinning industry, with worsted wool spinning fashion fabric as the feature and the annual produc- tion capacity over 10,000,000 m2, and extension of the industrial chain, to Fig. 3 contribute greatly to the development of the wool spinning industry in China. also with the functions of machine progress in wool spinning technol- wash, anti-static, nano Lotus Effect ogy and the trend of wool spinning Function, nano antisepsis, high elastic, products, enhance construction of the anti-shrinkage, suits for travel, mois- innovation team and system, and the ture absorption and quick drying, odor cooperation with the universities and proof, extreme black, refrigerating and institutes and experts in wool spinning, extreme black, silk protein finishing, train and introduce technical personnel, etc., forming the product features, and improve the ability of self innova- realizing the better economic benefit, tion of the Company. We shall make full improving the corporate competitive- use of Worsted Wool Spinning Fashion 1 by National Wool Spinning Product ness and upgrading the image and Fabric Development Base of National Survey and Research Centre/ National strength of Danmao Textile. Textile Product Development Centre, Wool Spinning Technical Information follow the differentiated and individual- Centre / Wool Spinning Technology With EliTe®Compact Spinning technol- ized development mode, place more Magazine / China Textile Engineering Association Wool Spinning Committee. ogy, we shall further proceed in new importance on innovation and new 2 by National Textile Product Development product development and fully utilize product development, and focus on Centre and China Textile Information the advantages of the technology. the high grade, light and thin, casual, Centre 3 We shall, according to Guideline of fashionable, individualized, functional by National Textile Product Development Centre, China Textile Information Centre, National 11th Five Year Wool Spinning and ease for maintenance products, China Textile Fabrics and Pattern Design Development Planning, be paying close especially the worsted wool spinning Competition Organizing Committee and attention to the domestic and foreign fashion fabrics. China Trend Association.

35 SPINNOVATION No. 24 HP-GX 5010 – The Top Weighting Arm for Worsted Spinning

Jens Nürnberger, Area Sales Manager China, SUESSEN

To meet the requirements of modern milk fibres, or new cellulose fibres like  minimal variation between spinning worsted ring spinning, you do not just Lyocell. And well-known material like positions need good preparatory machines cashmere and angora, which are rather  no restrictions in regard to raw up to the finisher to produce uniform demanding in spinning, get increas- material sliver, but also a sturdy ring spinning ingly popular. Many an old cheap or  free from wear machine. Almost all machines on the pneumatically loaded top weighting  easiest operation and low mainte- market today come up to this require- arm is no more in a position to fully nance ment; they are mechanically reliable meet the demands. over many years. Spindelfabrik Suessen have been sup- A top weighting arm should offer the plying top weighting arms with these But to produce a high-end yarn quality, following important characteristics to characteristics to customers all over more than a sturdy basic machine is satisfy the high demands of a worsted the world for many years. Our current necessary, because the yarn is pro- spinning mill: model HP-GX 5010, shown for the duced in the drafting system. And here first time at ITMA 2007 in Munich, is it is of importance, which top weighting  sustainable production of optimum already being delivered to the mar- arm is installed. yarn quality over a very long period ket, and first installations are running of time perfectly as expected producing the Today, many new types of raw material  high consistency of all yarn para- high-grade yarns as anticipated. break into the market, like bamboo and meters

Fig. 1

36 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The HP-GX 5010 is an improved top and retrofitted to all types of existing The top weighting arm offers the fea- weighting arm with even closer toler- worsted ring spinning frames. ture of partial load relief. ances and better top roller retainer than its predecessor, on which it is based. Being equipped with plate springs as The approved new handle, success- This is the well-known HP-A 510 top all its predecessors, the HP-GX 5010 ful already in short-staple spinning arm which has satisfied even the high- offers one of the main features of a (HP-GX 3010, HP-GX 4010), provides est demands since its introduction in modern top weighting arm: transmis- the whole HP-GX family with a striking 1988. It has been installed particularly sion of load from weighting spring to characteristic. often in Chinese spinning mills. The top roller free from wear. This avoids HP-A 510 has been applied on hun- loss of load due to friction in the course All top rollers are adjustable with dreds of new ring spinning machines of time. To the plate spring, guarantee- regard to pressure load and position. world-wide and it has frequently been ing the reliability of the HP-GX 5010, Distance or load on all weighting units used to modernize existing ring spin- a particularly wide top roller retainer are set with the units being installed. ning plants. is applied, in which the saddle of the top roller is milled by a special proc- Top rollers are available for spindle The HP-GX 5010 is going to continue ess, and which guarantees parallelism gauges of 75 and 82.5 mm. this success. This type of top weighting between the individual top rollers on arm, too, can be specified with OEMs the one hand and to the bottom rollers Corrosion tests carried out by inde- on the other hand. pendent laboratories showed that the

Fig. 2

37 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The Distinctive Features of the HP-GX 5010:

 position of the top rollers completely parallel to the bottom roller axles  load transmission without friction  loss of load and load difference on the bosses is avoided  minimal variation between the spinning positions  reliable fibre clamping and guidance Fig. 3  all fibre materials can be spun

non-corrosive surface coating has They can have diameters of 40 mm or three times more resistance than ever 50 mm. achieved. The cradle is made of steel. The high- The back and front top rollers can stability principle guarantees a uniform be obtained either without cots or load on the fibres at the front edge of

Fig. 4 with buffed cots of all popular brands. the cradle.

Fig. 5

38 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The rounded edges of low-friction The SUESSEN HP-R Top Rollers are The recess of the apron top roller can polymer create a minimum degree of of the loose boss type with non-remov- be chosen between 0.5 and 1.5 mm. friction on the top aprons. able bosses. The standard saddle The HP-GX 5010 top weighting arm, will provide additional support to the like the HP-A 510 in recent years, is The redesigned retention system guidance and precision of the top roller one of the successful features of our provides for the safe position of the position. EliTe®Compact Set-L for the moderni- cradles when the top weighting arm is zation of existing worsted ring spinning opened. The precise apron top rollers have frames. With this design, the original a rubber cot reducing the slippage front top roller is replaced by the EliTop HP-GX 5010 is always supplied between apron and roller. The top specified to fulfill the requirements. together with our proven top rollers with roller boss diameter is adapted to the microseal, which have a long operat- specification of the other top rollers. It First installations with the new top ing life with low maintenance and are ensures a perfect smooth running of weighting arm have already been free from play even after many years of the apron and avoids the accumulation completed and they are operating as operation. of dirt. expected to the entire satisfaction of the customers.

Mill Fibre Material Count Yarn Nm Processing T/m Twist Uster CV% Thin –50% +50% Thick Neps + 200% cN/tex Elongation % Hairiness Uster (H) Hairiness Zweigle (S3)

Conventional worsted spinning 100% wool HP-GX 5010 397 18.4 189 53 28 5.8 10.1 7.3 6326 A 28 21.5 µ HP-A 510 401 18.7 191 61 29 5.6 10.0 7.9 6534 100% wool HP-GX 5010 600 18.2 188 50 25 6.3 11.5 6.1 1511 B 48 20.5 µ HP-A 510 592 18.3 199 52 31 6.1 11.1 6.1 1787

100% wool HP-GX 5010 950 21.2 624 169 19 5.5 11.7 4.1 781 C 96 17.5 µ HP-A 510 958 21.2 632 174 19 5.4 11.2 4.3 801

55/45% HP-GX 5010 780 20.4 422 181 79 11.9 13.8 3.4 3043 D 68 PES/Wo HP-A 510 787 20.6 444 193 68 11.8 14.1 3.3 3155 40/60% HP-GX 5010 780 21.0 609 181 60 8.2 13.8 4.2 1685 D 80 PES/Wo HP-A 510 774 21.4 622 192 58 8.1 13.1 4.4 1721 HP-GX 5010 374 13.9 14 5 11 15.6 22.5 8.8 3684 D 100% PAC 34 HP-A 510 379 14.0 17 8 10 15.6 21.7 9.4 4027 EliTe®Compact Spinning 100% wool HP-GX 5010 660 15.1 29 11 8 6.3 11.8 2.8 539 E 40 19.5 µ HP-A 510 657 15.0 29 12 11 6.4 11.5 2.9 577 100% wool HP-GX 5010 903 20.6 562 121 14 6.0 13.6 3.3 341 C 96 17.5 µ HP-A 510 912 20.9 579 123 17 5.9 13.2 3.3 356

39 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) – Centre for Research and Development

Gerd Stahlecker, Managing Director

Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) was founded in 1948. Right from the start, the main concern of WST was the spinning of staple fibres. Demands for better utilization of fibre substance, better yarn quality, increased effi- ciency, energy saving, subsequent yarn processing without problems, higher or specially adapted quality of textile articles have always been the impetus for new developments. WST designed units, components and automated Fig. 1 systems, which fulfilled the customers‘ desires, and sometimes exceeded all expectations. Not only the technolo- this “Swabian Tinkerer”, and so WST the two enterprises have made a suc- gists dealing with spinning at WST, continues a tradition and culture deter- cessful team setting out on ever new but also the engineers responsible for mined by ingenuity, inventiveness, and targets of development with never- design, measuring technique or trials pioneering spirit. ending enthusiasm up to the present are familiar with every detail of spin- time. ning. In six decades of continuous research and development we gained new find- SUESSEN engineers accompanied However beautiful the rural environ- ings in technology by a multitude of and optimized WST inventions finally ment of the Swabian Alb as loca- trial series, and subsequently tried to manufactured by SUESSEN, so that tion of WST may be, it was hard for put them into practice by sophisticated the products could be sold success- earlier generations to survive in this design. Be it ring, rotor, air-jet or fric- fully in the market. New directions of barren landscape. Without inventive- tion spinning – we at WST are familiar development opened by SUESSEN ness this was almost impossible. This with every spinning method. WST’s marketing experts met our customers’ characterized the people living here. sphere of competence reaches far demands. SUESSEN, WST and their Most WST employees are living in the beyond spinning technology and mere customers form a team of partners near neighbourhood. They all harbour mechanics. The fields of activity are complementing one another to the ben- manifold and cover, for example, tech- efit of all. More than 5000 patents filed niques dealing with bearings, drives, in many countries in these six decades surface and air-flow. bear eloquent witness to extensive activities of development at WST In the year 1952, the two companies and to the ideally fruitful partnership Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH and between SUESSEN and WST. Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH started their most successful cooperation. Customers’ demands changed over WST now developed exclusively for the decades. The general technical Fig. 2 Spindelfabrik Suessen. From then on, progress opened ever new possibili-

40 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Contact: Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) Phone: +49 7334 77-0, Fax: +49 7334 7718 www.wst-gmbh.com [email protected]

The middle of the seventies marks the beginning of spinning machinery automation. Today’s automation of rotor spinning machines is based on funda- mental WST patents. SUESSEN-WST supplied the first piecing-up automats for rotor spinning machines.

A real renaissance of ring spinning took place in the late eighties, and this was mainly due to the relocation of spinning mills to Asian countries which started then. SUESSEN-WST launched new components for ring spinning machines.

Fig. 3

ties of satisfying them with increasing quality. WST was asked to improve refinement. spindle bearings and drafting systems. The seventies saw the rise of rotor Until the late sixties, spinning was spinning. SUESSEN and WST imme- synonymous with ring spinning. Our diately recognized the potential of this customers then claimed more yarn spinning method and became pioneers production in addition to better yarn of rotor spinning. Fig. 4

41 SPINNOVATION No. 24 The introduction of compact yarn at the end of the nineties ushered in a new era. Today, ten years later, the only question spinning mills are confronted with is how high the percentage of compact yarn should be to allow them to compete successfully.

For every period WST and SUESSEN jointly found products which were received by our customers all over the world with great enthusiasm.

Examples: in the fifties and sixties  UT Top Weighting Arm  SH Roller Bearing Spindle

Top rollers: DSN (loose boss type) and HSL (fixed boss typein the seventies and eighties  TwinDisc Rotor Bearing for rotor speeds up to 150,000 rpm  SE 6, SE 7, SE 8, SE 9 and SE 10 Rotor SpinBoxes including various spinning accessories Fig. 5  SpinCat/CleanCat Automation of Rotor Spinning Machines  HP-S 68, NASA-HP-S 68 Spindles, YarnCatcher (together with NOVIBRA)  HP-A Top Weighting Arms  ParafiL (Wrap Spinning Machine)  PLYfiL (SpinAssemblyWinder) in the nineties up to the present time  Fiomax ring spinning machines (short- and long-staple version)  EliTe®Compact Spinning Systems Fig. 6

42 SPINNOVATION No. 24 (short- and long-staple version) a partner whose competence in all  EliTe CompactSet for modernizing respects of spinning is highly esti- ring spinning machines mated.  EliTwist®Technology  HP-GX Top Weighting Arms The future will present new challenges.  SC-M, SC-R, SC-S, SC-C Rotor At WST, 50 engineers and technolo- SpinBoxes gists are busy with new developments in spinning, which will result in new Since WST has become part of the products enabling the customers of Rieter Group, WST now occupies the Spindelfabrik Suessen to defend their position of a partner in development successful position in the market. also in other Rieter Business Units,

Fig. 7

Fig. 8 Fig. 9

43 SPINNOVATION No. 24 SUESSEN Customer Survey 2007

Peter Stahlecker, MD, SUESSEN

... it is hard to win a customer, discrepancy between the assess- This difference in assessment may but very easy to loose one! ment of the customer/supplier relation- have dangerous consequences: The ship made by the supplier and made by supplier is not favored with the pending Research by marketing consultants, the customer; invariably the supplier’s order, but his competitor gets it instead. but also by academic institutions assessment is more positive than the The salesman is shocked; after all has shown that there is a significant customer’s. he is of the opinion that his service is

CUSTOMER SURVEY 2007

CUSTOMER / COUNTRY : very good good fair poor n.a

0. General statements: a How would you assess our overall performance, products and services Given what you know about other suppliers would you recommend our products and services to business b partners or friends? c Given what you know about other suppliers would you repurchase our products and services 1. Your assessment of our products with respect to: Quality Does our product range meet your requirements ? Userfriendly application Product range in general Price / performance ratio Availability / delivery times Innovations 2.a Quality of our sales and technical support provided by our staff, with respect to: Technical expertise of your contact person Practical support in solving problems Competent handling of queries Availability of your contact person Authority in decision-making Sufficient visits and contacts 2.b Quality of our sales and technical support provided by our representative, with respect to: Technical expertise of your contact person Practical support in solving problems Competent handling of queries Availability of your contact person Authority in decision-making Sufficient visits and contacts 3. Quality of our marketing with respect to: Product documentation Presence / presentation at trade exhibitions 4. Quality of our web site (www.suessen.com) with respect to: Information available from our web site Userfriendlyness Practical use of our technical support section (on the web site) 5. Quality of our sales support and processing with respect to: Response to queries (price, delivery time, availability) Comprehension of sales documents (offers, acknowledgements, invoices) Timely information of delays Handling of complaints Observance of your requests 6. Quality of our technical support: services and installations with respect to: General level of skill and competence of service engineers Availability in case of emergencies Efficiency and general appearance Training of your operators and maintenance staff

Further comments and personal suggestions:

Place: ………………… Date:……………… Name:…………………….… Occupation: …………….………… Fig. 1

44 SPINNOVATION No. 24 excellent, while – quite obviously – the The responses to the individual ques- the ‘No Reply’ entries as a measure customer does not share this opinion! tions are summarized in Fig 2. of the importance of this particular heading for the customer, we can The SUESSEN management is well We feel that this survey permits a see, where SUESSEN has the aware of this discrepancy and decided number of conclusions to be drawn: largest need to improve, namely for to poll our customers’ opinion about a) Generally speaking, our service the items collected under heading the quality of the various SUESSEN seems to be ‘Good’, with ‘Very 1, particularly in the sub - heading: activities. Good’ and ‘Fair’ more or less bal- Availability / delivery times. ancing each other. The ‘Poor’ grade With the help of professionals, an was given sparsely To come around full turn, so to speak, elaborate questionnaire was designed. b) Some issues are definitely more it must be emphasized that this article It asked a total of 36 questions, which important than others, e.g. the and the conclusions drawn are for the were grouped under eight different quality of the web site seems to be supplier’s point of view! As we saw headings. For each question, the cus- unimportant; it has by far the most before, customer and supplier do not tomer could select five answers: Very ‘No Reply’ entries. We conclude that always agree in their opinions. good, good, fair, poor, no reply. also in our age of electronics, the personal contact cannot easily be We therefore invite and request you, The questionnaires were sent to our replaced. our customers, to please give us your representatives in the relevant coun- c) The above finding is corroborated comments on this article. tries, and they forwarded them to the by the fact that the headings 1., person responsible within the organiza- 2a., 2b., have the lowest ‘No Reply’ Let us conclude by thanking all those tion of each customer. entries: All three, too, deal with customers and individuals, who took personal communication. the time to respond to our question- All in all, about 235 questionnaires d) If, as was implicitly done in b.) and naire. Their responses and comments were distributed, and we received c.), we take the relative amount of will help us to become a better supplier. about 95 responses; so 40% of our customers replied. According to the 100% professionals, this is a very acceptable rate of return, considering the complex- 80% No reply/Usage ity of our questionnaire. 60% Poor Fair The customers responding represent 40% Good Very good considerably more than 50% of our 20% EliTe® installations. With our Premium Parts business such a percentage is 0% s e rt e e s e iv on it r ic Customer : 94 nt im t ti s fe v e T po a a f r more difficult to give: These are tech- m . t b o e e l up nt n e , s t e S e e W e ta ,d s of s e n. re of ns l c h p um ty nological parts having a finite life cycle, a i c e c ty po li r pr e r li s e , t f do a re ua n ty d o f u Q e l n o of . G a a ty y Q 6 . u li it . ty and any percentage might be difficult to 0 q s l 4 i t le ua l Q ua ua Sa Q Q duc . b. . . interpret; still a large portion of our PP o a 2 3 5 Pr 2 . 1 customers returned the questionnaire. Fig. 2 45 SPINNOVATION No. 24 NEWSNEWS

New ASC-Homepage: www.americansuessen.com

For several months American Suessen Corporation (ASC) has been construct- ing a website specifically for ASC and the US-American Market, independent from the official SUESSEN homepage (www.suessen.com), but still closely associated with it. While the US textile market has shrunk leader in compact spinning technology considerably the past several years, with more than 2,800,000 EliTe® and the remaining spinning companies are EliTwist®Spinning Positions running stable and have tremendous capaci- in the world. ties. The new ASC-webpage offers a Other markers in the history of more efficient means for them to find EliTe®Compact Spinning: the offerings and increase the amount  09/2005 – 1,000,000th of ASC business. EliTe®Compact Spindle to Therefore, within the new website, the EJAZ SPINNING MILLS, Pakistan most important area are the pages  04/2006 – 1,500,000th showing pictures of all the parts offered EliTe®Compact Spindle to by ASC. Here the customers have dif- Super Spinning Mills Ltd., India ferent opportunities to find what they  03/2007 – 2,000,000th are looking for: visually by pictures, EliTe®Compact Spindle to search by description or individual part MATESA Tekstil A.Ş., Turkey number.  09/2007 – 1,000,000th EliTe®Compact Spindle into the The world renowned South India Textile 10 Years SUESSEN Indian market to GTN Textiles Research Association (SITRA), located EliTe®Compact Spinning Group in Coimbatore, South India, has This might be a reason to celebrate, acquired some EliTe® / EliTwist® mod- Here again is a real milestone in the but much more it is a reason to strive ernizations from SUESSEN, to further long history of SUESSEN’s successful even harder to continue to earn the strengthen their excellent research contributions to the world of spinning trust of the customers! capacities. technology: Amongst the many scientific publica- In 1998, just ten years ago, SUESSEN tions of SITRA is “An Investigation delivered the first EliTe®Compact on the Performance of EliTwist® Yarn Spinning Systems to the Austrian During High Speed Weaving and customer Linz Textil. Thanks to him, Properties of Fabrics Made Therefrom.” and thanks to all of the many other SUESSEN is very proud to be associ- customers, SUESSEN is now the ated with this prestigious Research Institute. 46 SPINNOVATION No. 24 Graf + Cie AG Bildaustrasse 6 CH-8640 Rapperswil Switzerland

Tel +41 55 221 71 11 Fax +41 55 221 72 33

[email protected] www.graf.ch

Product range:

Card Clothings for Flat Cards and products for Short Staple Spinning Service Machines for Flat Cards Card Clothings for Roller Cards Service Machines for Roller Cards Clothings for Raising Machines

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��� �� Compact Ring Spinning EliTe®CompactSet V5 Modernization of ring spinning machines EliTwist® Two-Ply Compact Yarn directly from the ring spinning machine EliCoreTwist® Two-Ply Compact Yarn with Core Yarn directly from the ring spinning machine Optional Applications: EliVario, EliVAControl

8 Conventional Ring Spinning HP Drafting Systems and Spinning Components HP-GX 3010 Top Weighting Arm – for short staple spinning HP-GX 4010 Top Weighting Arm – for roving frames HP-GX 5010 Top Weighting Arm – for worsted spinning with top rollers, cradles, bottom rollers, bottom apron nose bars Customers buying new ring spinning machines or roving frames may specify these components directly with the machine maker COREflex® – core yarn attachment for conventional and compact ring spinning machines ACP Quality Package – Active Cradle with special PinSpacer ACP Solutions available for Top Weighting Arms HP-A 310/320,HP-GX 3010, PK-type and P3.1 in compact and conventional ring spinning

Open-End Rotor Spinning Open-End SpinBoxes for OEMs Rieter and Savio Premium Parts – Modernization SC/ SQ SpinBoxes for Autocoro rotor spinning machines Premium Parts – Packages Modernization Packages for Autocoro rotor spinning machines Premium Parts – Components Spinning Components for Autocoro rotor spinning machines Premium Parts – Parts Spare Parts for SpinBoxes SE 7-10/ SC/ SQ

Testing Equipment Microdust Trash Analyser MDTA 3 – Fibre dust and trash testing equipment QuickSpin Unit – Prediction of yarn properties Product Range 200 QuickSpin System – Combination of MDTA 3 and QuickSpin Unit

...market oriented solutions...

Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH · Dammstrasse  · D-73079 Süssen · Germany Phone +49(0)762 5-0 · Fax +49(0)762 5-367· [email protected] · www.suessen.com

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