DOCSLIB.ORG

Fiber Prep for Worsted and Woolen Spinning WORKSHOP HANDOUT Prepared by Teresa Beck, Doodle Fibers

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Fiber Prep for Worsted and Woolen Spinning WORKSHOP HANDOUT Prepared by Teresa Beck, Doodle Fibers Fiber Prep for Worsted and Woolen Spinning WORKSHOP HANDOUT Prepared by Teresa Beck, Doodle Fibers 1 What is the difference between worsted and woolen yarn? The terms worsted and woolen refer to a type of fiber preparation and a collection of spinning ​ ​ ​ ​ techniques. NOTE: The worsted weight yarn you see in stores is typically gauge designation, not an indication of the fiber prep. WORSTED WOOLEN Yarn characteristics Smooth, dense, long Light, airy, fuzzy, warm, wearing, and creates good and has a lot of bounce stitch definition Fiber characteristics Organized fibers, straight Disorganized fibers, no alignment, same staple alignment, differing staple lengths, minimal air lengths, lots of air 2 Why would I choose to make worsted vs. woolen yarn? ● Worsted and woolen yarns have different characteristics and purposes. ○ Worsted: smooth, dense, long wearing, and creates good stitch definition ​ ○ Woolen: light, airy, fuzzy, warm, and has a lot of bounce ​ ● Compare samples: ○ Blue shawl and white cowl (woolen) ○ Socks and pink/blue skein (worsted) ● What is semi-worsted or woolen? Majority of yarn spun is SEMI (combination of preps and techniques). Use to ‘force’ the characteristics of one type of yarn on the prep for another. 3 How do I prepare fiber for worsted vs. woolen spinning? WORSTED WOOLEN Preferred prep ● Combed fiber ● Carded fiber ● Commercial top ● Roving ● Flicked locks ● Batts ● Rolags ● Fauxlags ● Folded staples Tools Combs Hand-carders Hackles Drum-carder DIY: Hair picks, combs DIY: Pet brush, dowel rods HANDS ON: ● Worsted prep ○ FIBER: Cheviot top & Mohair locks ○ Comb and straighten (think ‘align’). Remove air and organize. ○ Combs ○ Flick locks 4 Woolen prep ○ FIBER: Cheviot (cleaned/picked) & commercially prepared roving ○ Pick and card (think separate, not align). Add lots of air and disorganize. ○ Batt ○ Roving ○ Rolags ○ Fauxlags ● Semi-worsted or Semi-woolen preps ■ Combing commercial rovings, batts, etc to organize the fibers. ■ Carding combed top into rolags or fauxlags to disorganize the fibers. ● From the fold ○ Staple length sections. 5 How do I spin and draft for worsted vs woolen yarn? ● Start with properly prepped fiber for the type of yarn you want ● Worsted: Does not allow the twist to enter the yarn until it has been fully drafted. Removed air and keeps fibers organized. ○ Preferred prep (combed top) ○ Preferred drafts (short-forward, short-backward) ○ Semi-worsted: roving, rolags, from the fold ○ Tips: Know your staple length. Slow down. Find your rhythm. Use your front hand to remove air and smooth out the yarn. ○ HANDS ON: Practice ● Woolen: Allows the twist to run up into the yarn as it is being drawn out. Does not ​ remove air or organize the fibers. ○ Preferred preps (carded roving, batts, rolags, fauxlags, from the fold) ○ Preferred drafts (letting in the twist, long-draw) ○ Semi-woolen: commercial top, from the fold ○ Tips: Know your staple length. Resist the urge to make it uniform. Use your front hand to provide resistance. Let the twist go to the thin spots, then work on the fat spots. To correct mistakes: Use your front hand to ‘untwist’ a bit if you need to make it thinner. Allow the twist into MORE fiber to ‘untwist’ it a bit. ○ HANDS ON: Practice NOTE: Spinning from the fold is a drafting technique that can produce worsted or woolen yarn depending on the fiber prep. It can be used on long-stapled slippery fibers to make drafting easier or create more halo. It can help mix up staple lengths if you want to disorganize commercial rovings or top or control color changes. It can be lighter and airier used with long-draw or strong and firm used with short-draw. It will have more halo as the folded fiber tries to open up. 6 .
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Spinning Alpaca: Fiber from Huacaya Alpaca to Suri Alpaca (And Beyond)
    presents A Guide to Spinning Alpaca: Fiber from Huacaya Alpaca to Suri Alpaca (and beyond) ©F+W Media, Inc. ■ All rights reserved ■ F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use Spin.Off ■ spinningdaily.com ■ 1 oft, long, and available in a range of beautiful natural colors, alpaca can be a joy to spin. That is, if you know what makes it different from the sheep’s wool most spinners start with. It is Sa long fiber with no crimp, so it doesn’t stretch and bounce the way wool does. Sheep’s wool also contains a lot of lanolin (grease) and most spinners like to scour the wool to remove excess lanolin before they spin it. Alpaca doesn’t have the same grease content, so it can be spun raw (or unwashed) pretty easily, though it may contain a lot of dust or vegetable matter. Alpaca fiber also takes dye beautifully—you’ll find that the colors will be a little more muted than they would be on most sheep’s wool because the fiber is not lustrous. Because alpaca fiber doesn’t have crimp of wool, the yarn requires more twist to stay together as well as hold its shape over time. If you spin a softly spun, thick yarn, and then knit a heavy sweater, the garment is likely to grow over time as the fiber stretches. I hadn’t much experience spinning alpaca until I started volunteering at a school with a spinning program and two alpacas on the working farm that is part of the campus.
    [Show full text]
  • Start Spinning: Everything You Need to Know to Make Great Yarn Ebook
    START SPINNING: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO MAKE GREAT YARN PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Maggie Casey | 120 pages | 01 Apr 2008 | Interweave Press Inc | 9781596680654 | English | Loveland, CO, United States Start Spinning: Everything You Need to Know to Make Great Yarn PDF Book To make two-ply yarn, take two singles strands or both ends of the same strand , attach them both to your spindle, and twist them around each other in the opposite direction from how you originally spun them. When you spin, you put twist into fibres so that they hold together to form a continuous thread. Navajo Plying - Making a three-ply yarn 8. Designed to appeal to the beginning spinner, tips and hints are provided that illustrate how easy, enjoyable, and relaxing spinning can be. When I was in Kenya, women spun Romney wool chiefly "in the grease," but it often locked in large amounts of dirt in the process. Spin spin spin! Covers fiber characteristics, preparation and spinning, choosing a wheel, and crafting the finished yarn into useful and attractive pieces. I Made It! Leave the original loop of fiber anchored on the spindle hook. Description If you are a knitter or crocheter looking to take the step from just using manufactured yarn to making your own this is a great book to get you started. A bunch of loose fibers will fall apart if you pull on their ends. Launching a Patreon! First and foremost, you want a balanced drop spindle that spins true. Either one will do just fine to learn on. It is also much easier to learn to spin wool than silk, or cotton and other vegetable fibres.
    [Show full text]
  • This Tutorial Will Explain What a Balanced Plied Yarn Is, and H
    An HJS Studio Tutorial: Spinning Silk Caps I am proud to welcome Carol Weymar, a self-taught spinner and dyer of silk caps. I was much struck by the beauty of her work when I saw her website, so I asked her to write an ar- ticle, as silk is something I have no skill spinning. I hope you'll be as inspired by her expla- nation as I was! About Silk Caps Silk caps are made from cultivated cocoons that have been degummed and stretched over a frame shaped like a bell. They consist of a number of extremely thin layers; each layer is one cocoon. A cap "bell" is roughly two dozen caps, weighing about a pound altogether, which are fastened together at their tops and covered by one large cap whose edges are drawn out and tied together at the bottom to make a neat bundle. Cap silk is one of the most underrated types of silk available to the handspinner. It has its quirks, certainly, but mastering this form of silk is well worth your effort. It displays the beau- tiful luster of all its sister silks, but has the advantage of being a nearly continuous fiber. This means you can spin it to a very fine thread and it will be strong. It makes an excellent warp. It is very versatile; you can spin it into beautiful yarns, you can draw it into fine roving and knit or embroider with it in its unspun form, and you can blend it with other fibers to add bright color and gleaming highlights.
    [Show full text]
  • Consumption on the Woolen System and Worsted Combing
    CORE Metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk Provided by SNHU Academic Archive Consumption on the Woolen System and Worsted Combing: 2002 Issued June 2003 Summary MQ313D(02)-5 Current Industrial Reports Current data are released electronically on Internet and STAT-USA by subscription. The Internet for all individual surveys as they become avail- address is: www.stat-usa.gov/. Follow the able. Use: http://www.census.gov/mcd/. prompts to register. Also, you may call Individual reports can be accessed by choosing 202-482-1986 or 1-800-STAT-USA, for "Current Industrial Reports (CIR)," clicking on further information. "CIRs by Subsector;" then choose the survey of interest. Follow the menu to view the PDF file or For general CIR information, explanation of to download the worksheet file (WK format) to general terms and historical note, see the your personal computer. appendix. These data are also available on Internet through the U.S. Department of Commerce Address inquiries concerning these data to Consumer Goods Industries Branch, Manufacturing and Construction Division (MCD), Washington, DC 20233- 6900, or call Robert Lee, 301-763-4637. For mail or fax copies of this publication, please contact the Information Services Center, MCD, Washington, DC 20233-6900, or call 301-763-4673. U S C E N S U S B U R E A U U.S. Department of Commerce Economics and Statistics Administration Helping You Make Informed Decisions U.S. CENSUS BUREAU Table 1. Summary of Fibers Consumed in Woolen Spinning and Worsted Combing: 1998 to 2002 [Thousands
    [Show full text]
  • Transatlantic Trade in Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: the Role of Shoddy
    University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 1990 Transatlantic Trade In Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role Of Shoddy David T. Jenkins University of York Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Jenkins, David T., "Transatlantic Trade In Woollen Cloth 1850-1914: The Role Of Shoddy" (1990). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 607. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/607 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. -25- TRANSATLANTIC TRADE IN WOOLLEN CLOTH 1850-1914: THE ROLE OF SHODDY conditions. The nature and scale of the problem did not permit easy and DAVID T. JENKINS rapid solutions. The raw materials, technology and labour skills required for all-wool worsted production were quite different and a Department of Economics and Related Studies, University of York, York, rapid conversion to French methods of wool preparation and spinning was Y01 5DD, England. not quickly feasible. The British industry instead pursued a policy, initially rather slowly, of adapting its existing machinery and THE WORSTED CLOTH TRADE innovating new products, notably worsted coatings. In the two decades The factors affecting European trade and competition in worsted before the First World War it did recoup some of its previous trade cloth in foreign markets, notably the United States, in the second half losses but its level of trade did not recover to that of earlier years.2 of the nineteenth century are well recorded.
    [Show full text]
  • Spinning Machinery
    panty portion of support pantyhose. Future development HFP of Heberlein Maschinenfabrik AG had been develop- of air covering machine might be focused on the improve- ed as an interlacer and has been put to practical use. Since ment of nozzle in order to get even entanglement appro- it is effective for air covering, it has been supplied to air priate strength and less air consumption. covering machines of ICBT International land Guidici. In addition, a new type nozzle, called "BCF-JET", used for 7. Other Related Machineries and Equipments thick carpet yarn of 1,000 - 12,000 dtex was also ex- hibited. The shape of a slit of V-Jet exhibited by Fiber- An exhibition of machinery and equipments related to guide Limited is featured by easy processing of yarn, and manufacturing machine for chemical and synthetic fiber less accumulation of dirt. It has been put to practical use varied widely from spinnerets to measuring instrument. for air covering as well as non-sizing texturing and air Such as suction guns, false-twisting friction disk unit, mixing texturing. magnet spindles, air jet nozzles, yarn guides, rubber apron/roller etc. and measuring instruments. (3) Measuring Instruments for Filament Yarn Some exhibits are briefly summarized as follows: There were many other exhibits from manufacturers of testing instruments introducing a variety of measuring (1) Suction Guns instruments, on-line measurements, quality control An air sucker is generally used for yarn suction in systems according to the importance of quality control package mounting onto take-up winders and other similar complying with diversity of end-uses and high quality.
    [Show full text]
  • Technical Product Guide
    strength in materials Technical Product Guide www.agy.com Table of Contents Corporate Overview AGY provides the best quality, highest performance, and broadest range of glass fiber yarns, rovings and chop products to Corporate Overview .............................1 a wide variety of markets and end uses. Although founded as an independent entity Glass Fiber Manufacturing ...................2 in 1998, AGY has a 50+ year history of serving the composites industry. Nomenclature ......................................3 Globally, AGY has over 600 employees Conversion Tables ...............................6 involved in production, sales, distribution and development of our products. Our AGY Glass Yarns .................................8 world headquarters, technology center and manufacturing facility are located in Aiken, AGY Glass Rovings ...........................14 SC U.S.A. AGY Chopped Glass ..........................16 We also have commercial and administrative offices in Lyon, France, and AGY Packaging Specificaions ............18 a commercial office in Shanghai, China. AGY Sizing Systems ..........................20 Typical Fiber Properties .....................26 Glossary of Terms ..............................28 strength in materials 1 Glass Fiber Manufacturing Glass Fiber Nomenclature AGY glass fibers are made from molten glass. The viscous liquid is General drawn through tiny holes at the base of the furnace to form hair-like Glass fiber yarns are typically identified by either an inch-pound based system (U.S. customary system) or a TEX/metric system (based on the SI*/metric system). filaments. A protective sizing, applied as the filament cools and This section gives a brief description of glass fiber yarn nomenclature, including hardens, helps prevent abrasion during additional processing and comparisons of the two systems (see table on page 4). A more comprehensive makes the glass compatible with various resin systems.
    [Show full text]
  • Spininnovation
    No. 24 07.2008 € INNOVATION 5,– SPIN THE MAGAZINE FOR SPINNING MILLS COREflex® – Core Yarn Attachment for Ring Spinning Machines ACP Quality Package Premium Parts – News HP-GX 5010 New Top Weighting Arms Mill Reports: – Nahar, India – Danmao, China Berkol – Part of Bräcker Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH CONTENTS Editorial 3 COREflex® – Spinning Soft Core Yarn on Ring and Compact Spinning Machines 5 Yarn Quality Improved by ACP Quality Package 9 Premium Parts – News – Metal Washer for Magnetic Navals – CR-Coating for B 174 and B 20 SOLIDRINGS – ProFiL®Navels 15 The Theory of Compacting 19 BERKOL® – Becomes Part of Bräcker AG, Switzerland 21 NAHAR – A Saga from Farm to Fashion 23 Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet – A Practical Assessment , Nahar Industries, India 25 Manufacture of the SUESSEN Technology Components 27 Produce More and Better High Grade Worsted Fashion Fabric – Danmao Spinning Mills, China 31 HP-GX 5010 – The Top Weighting Arm for Worsted Spinning 36 Wilhelm Stahlecker GmbH (WST) – Centre for Research and Development 40 SUESSEN Customer Survey 2007 44 News 46 Advertisement: – Graf, Switzerland 47 – SUESSEN Product Range 48 Impressum No. 24 – July 2008 Published by Reprint of articles with reference Price : € 5.– Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH permitted – Voucher copies desired Publication : once per year Dammstrasse 1, D-73079 Süssen, All rights reserved Information & Advertising Contact: Germany Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbH SPINNOVATION, Germany Editor in Chief : Peter Stahlecker fax + 49 (0) 71 62 15-367 Title registered® at German Patent Front Cover : e-mail: [email protected] Office EliCoreTwist® – EliTwist®CompactSet internet: www.suessen.com Copyright © 2008 with COREflex ® 2 SPINNOVATION No.
    [Show full text]
  • Premium Knitting & Crochet Tool Catalog
    2015 PREMIUM KNITTING & CROCHET TOOL CATALOG Westing Bridge LLC designs, manufactures and wholesales the complete line of ChiaoGoo premium bamboo, wood, and stainless steel knitting and crochet tools. We are dedicated to offering high quality products with great overall value! ChiaoGoo bamboo needles are made of Moso bamboo, the largest and strongest bamboo in the world. Our craftsmanship is the result of over 100 years of experience passed down by generations of skilled craftsmen. Due to the quick, renewable nature of bamboo, we are proud that the products we offer are eco-friendly. Our stainless steel products are made of surgical-grade, stainless steel that is hypoallergenic and, in most cases, not reactive to sensitive skin. They have a nice smooth, satin sheen that won’t reflect any light making it hard to see your work. They are lightweight and strong! The needle is precisely machined resulting in perfect tips and joins. We take pride in providing excellent customer service to our customers in the United States and abroad. We have established a European Sales Office to assist those German and French speaking customers. Please refer to the back cover for contact information. We thank you for your interest in our ChiaoGoo products. SINGLE POINTS BAMBOO Our Patina and Natural Color Single Points have precisely tapered, hand-crafted tips. They are made of Moso bamboo which is the largest and strongest bamboo out of over 1,000 different species. The size is permanently laser imprinted on each needle and cap. The patina color is obtained with thermal heat. It is difficult to find bamboo large enough to produce needles larger than size US15 (10 mm).
    [Show full text]
  • Current and Future Trends in Yarn Production1
    Volume 2, Issue 2, Spring 2002 CURRENT AND FUTURE TRENDS IN YARN PRODUCTION1 William Oxenham, Ph.D. College of Textiles, North Carolina State University ABSTRACT While developments in yarn manufacturing continue to be promoted by machinery makers, spinners are challenged to produce the best quality yarn at an acceptable price. This often results in a compromise, since improved yarn quality can usually only be achieved at a higher processing cost (including raw material selection). An additional difficulty is that the significance of the various attributes of quality change for different yarn’s end uses. While the solution to lowering yarn costs, that has been adopted in recent years has been to create large, almost fully automated spinning mills, this philosophy is presently being questioned, since this significantly reduces flexibility with respect to the fiber and yarn type that can be processed. This is obviously at odds with the current paradigm of customer driven, quick response manufacturing, since this demands inherent flexibility in the successful supplier. This paper reviews the current state of technological innovation in yarn production and examines the relative merits and disadvantages of each system. Some insight will also be given concerning those factors that limit further development of some of these systems. Historical trends in US yarn production have also been surveyed, and the combined information obtained is used as an indicator of the future directions in this key industry. KEYWORDS: Yarn Production, Spinning, Vortex Spinning, Centrifugal Spinning 1. INTRODUCTION shortcomings in certain aspects of yarn and fabric quality (Figure 2). This aspect Research into new technology for yarn cannot be over stressed since while ring formation peaked in the 60’s & 70’s.
    [Show full text]
  • India's Textile and Apparel Industry
    Staff Research Study 27 Office of Industries U.S. International Trade Commission India’s Textile and Apparel Industry: Growth Potential and Trade and Investment Opportunities March 2001 Publication 3401 The views expressed in this staff study are those of the Office of Industries, U.S. International Trade Commission. They are not necessarily the views of the U.S. International Trade Commission as a whole or any individual commissioner. U.S. International Trade Commission Vern Simpson Director, Office of Industries This report was principally prepared by Sundar A. Shetty Textiles and Apparel Branch Energy, Chemicals, and Textiles Division Address all communications to Secretary to the Commission United States International Trade Commission Washington, DC 20436 TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Executive Summary . v Chapter 1. Introduction . 1-1 Purpose of study . 1-1 Data and scope . 1-1 Organization of study . 1-2 Overview of India’s economy . 1-2 Chapter 2. Structure of the textile and apparel industry . 2-1 Fiber production . 2-1 Textile sector . 2-1 Yarn production . 2-4 Fabric production . 2-4 Dyeing and finishing . 2-5 Apparel sector . 2-5 Structural problems . 2-5 Textile machinery . 2-7 Chapter 3. Government trade and nontrade policies . 3-1 Trade policies . 3-1 Tariff barriers . 3-1 Nontariff barriers . 3-3 Import licensing . 3-3 Customs procedures . 3-5 Marking, labeling, and packaging requirements . 3-5 Export-Import policy . 3-5 Duty entitlement passbook scheme . 3-5 Export promotion capital goods scheme . 3-5 Pre- and post-shipment financing . 3-6 Export processing and special economic zones . 3-6 Nontrade policies .
    [Show full text]
  • Recommendations for Producing Linen-Look Yarn on Conventional Equipment
    TECHNICAL BULLETIN 6399 Weston Parkway, Cary, North Carolina, 27513 • Telephone (919) 678-2220 TRI 1010 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PRODUCING LINEN-LOOK YARN ON CONVENTIONAL EQUIPMENT © 1992 Cotton Incorporated. All rights reserved; America’s Cotton Producers and Importers. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page CONCEPT 2 INTRODUCTION 2 FIBER ANALYSIS 3 LINEN-LOOK YARN--PREPARATORY PROCEDURE 3 SPINNING PROCEDURE 4 PROCESSING SEQUENCE AND EQUIPMENT SETTINGS 4 OPENING AND CLEANING 4 CARDING 4 DRAWING--FIRST PROCESS 4 DRAWING--SECOND PROCESS 5 ROVING 5 SPINNING 5 TEST RESULTS--18/1 Ne 6 CONCEPT To produce a 100% cotton novelty yarn with long linen-like slubs using standard mill machinery without special attachments. INTRODUCTION Cotton Incorporated developed a totally new novelty yarn with a linen look which can be produced on conventional mill machinery without special attachments. It is called "linen look" because it simulates long slubs common to linen yarn but is made using 100% cotton. The slubs are formed by using small amounts of comber noils (short fibers) in the final drawing operation. One of the main targets for this yarn is women's wear fabrics for blouses and skirts. In the current work, counts of 18/1 Ne were spun. The effective count range of this type yarn is projected to be from 8/1 Ne to 28/1 Ne. Example: Linen-Look vs. Regular Yarn (Ne 18/1 Ring TM 3.8) 2 FIBER ANALYSES 1. Characteristics of fiber used in this project Type - U.S. upland cotton Grade - SLM Length (inches) - 1.12 Mic - 3.8 - 4.6 Strength (grams/tex) - 24 and up 2.
    [Show full text]