Fiber Prep for Worsted and Woolen Spinning WORKSHOP HANDOUT Prepared by Teresa Beck, Doodle Fibers 1 What is the difference between worsted and woolen yarn? The terms worsted and woolen refer to a type of fiber preparation and a collection of spinning ​ ​ ​ ​ techniques. NOTE: The worsted weight yarn you see in stores is typically gauge designation, not an indication of the fiber prep. WORSTED WOOLEN Yarn characteristics Smooth, dense, long Light, airy, fuzzy, warm, wearing, and creates good and has a lot of bounce stitch definition Fiber characteristics Organized fibers, straight Disorganized fibers, no alignment, same staple alignment, differing staple lengths, minimal air lengths, lots of air 2 Why would I choose to make worsted vs. woolen yarn? ● Worsted and woolen yarns have different characteristics and purposes. ○ Worsted: smooth, dense, long wearing, and creates good stitch definition ​ ○ Woolen: light, airy, fuzzy, warm, and has a lot of bounce ​ ● Compare samples: ○ Blue shawl and white cowl (woolen) ○ Socks and pink/blue skein (worsted) ● What is semi-worsted or woolen? Majority of yarn spun is SEMI (combination of preps and techniques). Use to ‘force’ the characteristics of one type of yarn on the prep for another. 3 How do I prepare fiber for worsted vs. woolen spinning? WORSTED WOOLEN Preferred prep ● Combed fiber ● Carded fiber ● Commercial top ● Roving ● Flicked locks ● Batts ● Rolags ● Fauxlags ● Folded staples Tools Combs Hand-carders Hackles Drum-carder DIY: Hair picks, combs DIY: Pet brush, dowel rods HANDS ON: ● Worsted prep ○ FIBER: Cheviot top & Mohair locks ○ Comb and straighten (think ‘align’). Remove air and organize. ○ Combs ○ Flick locks 4 Woolen prep ○ FIBER: Cheviot (cleaned/picked) & commercially prepared roving ○ Pick and card (think separate, not align). Add lots of air and disorganize. ○ Batt ○ Roving ○ Rolags ○ Fauxlags ● Semi-worsted or Semi-woolen preps ■ Combing commercial rovings, batts, etc to organize the fibers. ■ Carding combed top into rolags or fauxlags to disorganize the fibers. ● From the fold ○ Staple length sections. 5 How do I spin and draft for worsted vs woolen yarn? ● Start with properly prepped fiber for the type of yarn you want ● Worsted: Does not allow the twist to enter the yarn until it has been fully drafted. Removed air and keeps fibers organized. ○ Preferred prep (combed top) ○ Preferred drafts (short-forward, short-backward) ○ Semi-worsted: roving, rolags, from the fold ○ Tips: Know your staple length. Slow down. Find your rhythm. Use your front hand to remove air and smooth out the yarn. ○ HANDS ON: Practice ● Woolen: Allows the twist to run up into the yarn as it is being drawn out. Does not ​ remove air or organize the fibers. ○ Preferred preps (carded roving, batts, rolags, fauxlags, from the fold) ○ Preferred drafts (letting in the twist, long-draw) ○ Semi-woolen: commercial top, from the fold ○ Tips: Know your staple length. Resist the urge to make it uniform. Use your front hand to provide resistance. Let the twist go to the thin spots, then work on the fat spots. To correct mistakes: Use your front hand to ‘untwist’ a bit if you need to make it thinner. Allow the twist into MORE fiber to ‘untwist’ it a bit. ○ HANDS ON: Practice NOTE: Spinning from the fold is a drafting technique that can produce worsted or woolen yarn depending on the fiber prep. It can be used on long-stapled slippery fibers to make drafting easier or create more halo. It can help mix up staple lengths if you want to disorganize commercial rovings or top or control color changes. It can be lighter and airier used with long-draw or strong and firm used with short-draw. It will have more halo as the folded fiber tries to open up. 6 .