CONTENTS

FOREWORD INTRODUCTION TO AND 2 SPINNING BY HAND 6 SPINNINGWHEEL: THE PARTS 6 SPINNINGWHEELWITH LEAD 9 BICYCLE SPINNINGWHEEL 9 SPINNING ACCESSORIES 9 BENCH-CARDER 11 CONSTRUCTING A BENCH-CARDER 12 THE SPINNING OPERATION 13 MATERIALS: WOOL AN D MOHAl R 14 THE CLASSES OF MOHAIR FROM LESOTHO 14 SORTING BASOTHO MOHAIR 15 TEASING 16 16 18 SPINNING: WORKING METHOD 19 -WOOLLEN SPINNING 20 SHORT DRAW- SPINNING 21 SPINNING FLUFFY 22 Z-TWISTED AND S-TWISTED YARN 22 PLYING 22 THE SIZE OF THE YARN 23 SKEINS 23 EVALUATI NG TH E YARN 24 NATURAL DYES 25 SYNTHETIC OR CHEMICAL DYES 25 SYNTHETIC DYES FOR ANIMAL FIBRE 25 EQUIPMENT 27 MATERIALS USED FOR DYEING AT TLM 29 WEIGHING THE DYE-STUFF 30 PREPARING LESS THAN 1/10 GRAM DYE-STUFF 30

http://d-nb.info/1015550118 CALCULATING PERCENTAGES 31 PREPARING YARN FOR WASHING AND DYEING 31 HANDLING YARN FROM ANIMAL FIBRE 32 SOAKING YARN BEFORE WASHING 32 WASHING YARN 32 WORKING ROUTINE AND DYEING METHOD 33 SAMPLE DYEING 34 MATERIAL CONSUMPTION REGISTRATION 35 SHAFT LOOM WEAVING SHAFT LOOM WITH OVERHEAD PULLEY SYSTEM 36 SHAFT LOOM: THE PARTS 37 SHAFT LOOM: OPERATION 38 SHAFT LOOM WITH COUNTERMARCH 39 WEAVING ACCESSORIES AND HAND-TOOLS 39 THE WARP 42 THE WEFT 42 PREPARING WARP THE SIMPLEST WAY 42 PREPARING WARP ON A FRAME 43 PREPARING WARP ON A WARPING MILL 44 THE CROSS 45 THE REED 46 CALCULATING THE WARP WIDTH 47 CALCULATING THE WARP LENGTH 47 SPACING THE WARP BEFORE DRESSING THE LOOM 48 TRANSFERRING A WARP TO THE SHAFT LOOM 49 DRESSING THE LOOM 49 SHAFTS AND HEDDLES 50 THREADING THE HEDDLES 51 THREADING THE REED 51 DRAFTING 52 CONSTRUCTING A DRAFT 52 BASIC WEAVES I: PLAIN WEAVE 54 WEAVE 54 PLAIN WEAVE COMBINED WITH PICKED PATTERN 54 BASIC WEAVES II: TWILL WEAVE 55 BASIC WEAVES 111: SATIN WEAVE 57 WINDING A BOBBIN 58 SHUTTLE WEAVING 59 DESIGNS FOR SHAFT LOOM WOVEN TEXTILES 60 TAPESTRY WEAVING WHAT IS TAPESTRY WEAVING? 62 MATERIALS FOR WARP AN D WEFT 63 SIMPLE FRAME LOOM - 64 FRAME LOOM WITH TENSION ING DEVICE 64 FRAME LOOM WITH «CONTINUOS» WARP 65 WARP SPACING DEVICE 65 SWEDISH UPRIGHT TAPESTRY WEAVING LOOM 67 WARP-CHAINS 67 DRESSING A SWEDISH UPRIGHT LOOM 67 SPACING THE WARP 68 WARP-WEIGHTED UPRIGHT LOOM 69 WARP-WEIGHTED LOOM: THE PARTS 70 CONSTRUCTING A WARP-WEIGHTED LOOM 71 DRESSING A WARP-WEIGHTED LOOM 72 CUTTING THE WARP AFTER WEAVING 74 ATTACHING NEW WARP-CHAINS 75 ATTACHING LEASHES TO AN UPRIGHT WARP 76 HAND-TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR TAPESTRY WEAVING 77 INSERTING THE WEFT 78 WEAVING THE HEADING 79 BUILDING UP THE WEAVE IN SECTIONS 79 EXAMPLES OF STEPPING 80 WEAVING A CONTOUR 81 WEAVING CURVES AND ROUND SHAPES 82 WEAVING VERTICAL LINES 82 EXAMPLES OF HATCHING 83 COMBINING STEPPING AND HATCH ING 85 WEAVING TECHNIQUE USED ORNAMENTALLY 85 IN WEFT ENDS 88 CORRECT MEASU REMENTS FOR 88 DESIGNING TAPESTRIES: CONTENT 89 DESIGNING TAPESTRIES: COMPOSITION 90 DESIGNING TAPESTRIES: SIZES AND FORMATS 91 DESIGNING TAPESTRIES: PROPORTIONS AND PERSPECTIVES 92 DESIGNING TAPESTRIES: COLOURS 93 MOUNTING Fl NISHING-OFF TAPESTRIES 96 MOUNTING TAPESTRIES WITH LOOPS AND FRINGES 96 PLAITED FRINGES 97 CORDED FRINGES 97 LOOPS 98 EXAMPLE ON MOUNTED TAPESTRY 99 WOVEN EDGE 99 PRESSING THE TAPESTRIES 100 FINISHING-OFFWALLHANGINGS 101 FIN1SHING-OFF BEDSPREADS 101 FINISHING-OFF PONCHOS 102 WORKSHOP ADMINISTRATION ROLL-CALL PRODUCT REGISTRATION CONTROL WORKSHEET MATERIAL CONSUMPTION CONTROL PRODUCT REGISTRATION CHART - MONTHLY STOCK CHECK SALES PRODUCTION PLANNING MOHAIR QUALITY STANDARDS GLOSSARY RECOMMENDED READING »*