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SHOW IT’S BUY,BUY BUSINESS ALIVE! BABY TNNA debuts Why Facebook Retail is a new trade Live cannot be dead; long show format. ignored live retail Here’s what to expect

JANUARY 2018

JOIN US AT THE YMN SUMMIT IN CHICAGO (see page 3 for details)

Star Power SHINE ON IN 2018

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Going Viral ROSE CALLAHAN

Last October, my boyfriend was attending New York Comic Con with friends. He goes every year, and I’ve grown accustomed to not hearing a peep out of him as he takes in all that the show has to offer. But this year, I got a text. It was a photo of a man dressed like Batman. There was no accompanying explanation. I have no personal con- nection with Batman, so I wasn’t sure why he’d sent it to me, but then I looked more closely at the photo. The man was wearing an entirely crocheted costume! So I put the photo up on Market News’s Facebook page. (For those who saw it: yes, I pretended for the sake of a FB post that I took the photo myself.) I thought it was such a fantastic costume, and hoped I’d get some likes. Responses started rolling in, faster than I usually get on Facebook posts. A few people thought it gave crocheters a bad name. Several helpful fans put that person in her place, pointing out the impressive skill put into a well-thought-out costume. I left to go to dinner. I noticed the number of people the post had reached was rapidly grow- ing. As the evening went on I snuck peeks of my phone to check the post’s progress. Ten thousand! One hundred thousand! By the time I went to bed, we’d cracked one million. But the on the cover most amazing moment came a week later, when someone from Australia posted the image to HiKoo’s sparkly, glimmering the Facebook wall of Trisha Malcolm, YMN’s editorial director. The post came from an entirely yarn, Tiara, adorns this wintry decoration. Skacel Collection different source! They did not credit YMN, but it was unmistakably the exact same photograph. distributes the 13 colors of the It had gone so viral that the content was stolen and being sent around the Internet anew! braided 10% kid mohair, 5% wool, 49% acrylic, 22% nylon, I confess, I have no idea how to follow this up. What could possibly compare? If only I’d had 10% bead, 4% sequin yarn. Mary McGurn’s article on page 30, with information about Facebook Live, as a guide. Also in www.skacelknitting.com this issue, we take a look at the current state of retail, which is changing for all industries (page Photograph by Marcus Tullis 44), and at our own industry, in Daryl Brower’s piece about TNNA (page 42). Plus, you’ll find some great information about selling your store (page 32) and establishing price points (page 34). And in the meantime, I’ll keep posting to Facebook, hoping to again strike gold. I’m so looking forward to March, when we will host our first YMN Summit. We’re taking some of the best parts of our Smart Business Conference—the networking, the collaborative idea-sharing—and making it a full-day intensive (see details on page 3). Not only am I excited to see friends old and new; I’m also eager to hear about the challenges and triumphs you’ve had and are anticipating for the future, as we work under the guidance of an expert business facilitator to grow your businesses. Registration is open and early bird pricing is still active, so go to our website, www.yarnmarketnews.com/conferences, and register today.

The YMN Summit would like to hear from you before we meet: FOLLOW Please go to Erin Slonaker, Editor in Chief YARN MARKET NEWS surveymonkey.com/r/YMNSummit18 ON FACEBOOK

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SUMMIT March 12, 2018 HILTON CHICAGO HOTEL COLLABORATE • NETWORK • GROW

Let’s come together for one day to identify the challenges and opportunities facing yarn retailers today, under the guidance of an expert business facilitator. We’ll focus on collaborative idea-generating and leave with new strategies and a support network for future growth. Register Now

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features 42 SHOW BUSINESS The National NeedleArts Association debuts a new trade- show format. By Daryl Brower

44 THE RETAILPOCALYPSE How to survive—and thrive—in a changing retail J A N U A R Y 2 018 landscape. By Leslie Petrovski

42 Responding to the dwindling number of winter-show attendees, TNNA decided to shake things up.

in every issue

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 8 MARKET REPORT 14 BOOK REVIEWS 16 YARN FORWARD 20 TNNA 21 CRAFT YARN COUNCIL

In the town of Corvallis, The Faroe Islands’ resident sheep 22 YARN GROUP Oregon, Stash yarn shop join the digital revolution. 26 ASSOCIATION FOR CREATIVE 36 caters to an artsy crowd. 8 INDUSTRIES 27 28 GUILD 29 GUILD 30 SMART ONLINE 32 SMART LEGAL 34 SMART MONEY 36 RETAIL PROFILE Stash 38 COMPANY PROFILE Lion Brand Yarn Co. 48 CELEBRITY INTERVIEW Vickie Howell’s goal for Lion Brand attributes its Vickie Howell her new YouTube series success to strong relation- is simple: bring together ships with suppliers, dis- 48 the entire yarn industry. 38 tributors and end users. YMNJAN18-Koigu.indd 5 12/13/17 8:36 AM 006_YMJAN18Masthead.FINAL:YMNMA05masthead 12/15/17 8:52 AM Page 6

Editorial Director TRISHA MALCOLM

Editor in Chief ERIN SLONAKER

Creative Director JOE VIOR

Managing Editor LESLIE A. BARBER

EDITORIAL Contributing Editor LESLIE PETROVSKI

ARTANDPRODUCTION Graphic Designer DEBORAH GRISORIO

ADVERTISING Director of Advertising Sales LORI HORAK (212) 937-2554; [email protected]

Advertising Associate KARIMA AMIR (212) 225-9011; [email protected]

EVENTSANDMARKETING Events Director GABRIELLE ALD (212) 225-9001; [email protected]

Marketing Manager BETH RITTER (212) 225-9006; [email protected]

Events Manager KARIMA AMIR (212) 225-9011; [email protected]

SOHOPUBLISHING,LLC President ART JOINNIDES Chief Operating Officer CARRIE KILMER Publisher DAVID JOINNIDES Controller ELAINE MOWBRAY

ADVISORYBOARD JOAN LOOI, Sales Rep BETSY PERRY, Classic Elite LINDA NIEMEYER, Blue Sky JANET AVILA, String Theory Yarn Company

Magazine Publishers of America Manufactured and printed in the United States of America

Yarn Market News™ is a trademark of SoHo Publishing, LLC. YMN is published three times a year, in January, May and October, in the U.S. and Canada. Copyright © 2018 by SoHo Publishing, LLC, 104 West 27th Street, 3rd floor, New York, NY 10001. No part of this book may be copied or reproduced by any means without written permission of the Publisher. Executive, publishing, editorial and advertising offices: 104 West 27th Street, 3rd floor, New York, NY 10001.

HOWTO REACH US TO SUBSCRIBE, CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR CANCEL A SUBSCRIPTION: visit www.yarnmarketnews.com or e-mail [email protected]

EDITORIAL COMMENTS: e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]

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MARKET REPORT BYLESLIEPETROVSKI

ULTIMATE KNITTING EVOLVES M In 2002, when SoHo Publishing, LLC released the second edition of Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book, the hand-knitting industry was in the throes of a scarf craze, knitting were just becoming a thing, and was all the rage. Fast-forward 15 years. A lot has changed. Due out in February, the third edition of The Ultimate Knitting Book comes with 75 extra pages and covers the many advancements made in hand- knitting’s hygge corner of the world since the last edition came out. Crack the binding of this new reference and you’ll find enhanced sections on design that go beyond sweaters to include shawl mania (more than 25 separate shawl shapes), plus dozens of hats, mittens, socks and gloves. The popularity of techniques such as brioche, , knitting and is documented as well. Plus, the entire volume has been refreshed with a color-coded navigation system and deep cross-referencing for easy researching. www.sixthandspring.com

SHEEP PUT THE FAROE ISLANDS ON THE MAP

M Last November, the Faroe Islands—an economy on the islands, outnumbering Trekker and extra 360-degree cameras to autonomous country within the Kingdom people at a population ratio of about 80,000 the project. Though much of the photo- of Denmark, the island group is located in to 50,000. graphy of the island’s roads and hiking trails the North Sea, halfway between Spearheaded by former Visit Faroe Islands that made it onto Street View was shot by and Iceland—made its debut on Google Street employee Durita Dahl Andreassen, the people, a number of the roving sheep shots View thanks to a few good sheep. Hitherto Sheep View campaign went viral, with stories also made the cut. unavailable on the Google Maps feature, featuring the media-genic sheep and sweater- Levi Hanssen, content manager at Visit the 18-island archipelago sought to claim clad Andreassen appearing all over the world. Faroe Islands, reported that the publicity its place in cyberspace. To capture Google’s Turns out the hardy, dual-coated Faroe has been good for business. “We saw attention, the territory’s tourism board sheep made respectable videographers, con- an of about 10 percent in visitor strapped 360-degree solar cameras to the tributing dramatic footage of the islands’ numbers in 2017,” he says. Not baaaad. backs of five sheep. Why sheep? The animals picturesque landscape to the search engine. View the sheep footage at www.visitfaroe are an important part of the landscape and Google eventually contributed a Street View islands.com/sheepview360.

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BAGGING A COLLAB NEW OWNERS FOR ZEALANA

M Zealana, known for its luxury possum-blend yarns, has been acquired by Extraordinary Yarns, one of Australasia’s leading yarn wholesalers. The 10-year-old yarn brand had been owned by Woolyarns Ltd. Extraordinary Yarns currently sells a wide range of U.K. M What do you get when knitting-organization maven Della Glein brands, including Sirdar, Sublime and King Cole, to re- and multi-hyphenate knitting celebrity Vickie Howell chat at a TNNA tailers in Australia and New Zealand. “Extraordinary Yarns show? A new bag, of course. brings decades of experience in hand-knitting yarn and is The Vickie Howell for della Q “Tink” Tote and Zip Pouch is a renowned for personalized customer service,” says the classic, lightweight bucket bag designed for small to medium grab- company’s Steve Dowling. “Acquiring the Zealana brand is and-go projects. Freestanding, with a convenient snap-in zip pouch an exciting new chapter for Extraordinary Yarns, and our for easy accessory access, the cotton canvas bag is lined in polyester, team is looking forward to working closely with Woolyarns has faux-leather handles and can even withstand gentle machine and new retailers around the world.” washing in a front loader. As part of the acquisition, Extraordinary Yarns will sell The colorblocked bag comes in three colors—natural with tur- the full line of Zealana yarns and pattern books out of quoise, mustard or pink accents (pictured above)—colors that coordi- the company’s warehouse, located outside of Melbourne, nate with the logo of Vickie Howell’s new YouTube video series, The Victoria. “This new relationship means both retailers and Knit Show. The bag launched on November 1, and by the end of consumers benefit greatly,” says Woolyarns Marketing that month Glein was set to reorder additional stock. Manager Jimad Khan. “All Zealana yarn blends remain un- “It’s a good brand mix,” Glein said. “It’s something different and changed, and the change of ownership allows Woolyarns to sells at a really good price point.” She hinted the launch had gone focus resources on product development and innovation.” so well that future Vickie Howell for della Q accessories may be The sale was announced last November. coming soon. To order, visit www.dellaq.com.

5,000 HATS? Y NOT? M Last fall, the senior knitting circle at the 92nd Street Y in New York City reached an important milestone: 5,000 hats knit for charity. The senior knitting circle, which has been meeting since 2011, was the inspiration of Phyllis Greenwald, a member of the Y’s Himan Brown Senior Program, who recognized the role knitting can play in keeping seniors mentally active and engaged. Serving up to 700 people at any given time with dozens of pro- grams every week, the Y’s Himan Brown Senior Program functions as a kind of lifelong-learning mini-versity, offering classes, lectures and other events to seniors ages 60 and older, explains program director Jo Frances Brown. Every Wednesday, 25 members of the knitting circle to knit hats for premature infants and cancer patients, work on individual projects or drop off what they’ve made. The group’s oldest member, 98-year-old Anita Sherman, knits one hat every night. “We offer people instruction and camaraderie and free materials Center—Pediatric Oncology, University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer and whatever they need,” says Brown. “It’s a feel-good thing— Center and more. creative and social and focused.” Last year the group set the goal of making 5,000 hats by Novem- The knitting’s circle’s first batch of 40 hats was donated in Sep- ber 28—Giving Tuesday—which was instituted at the 92nd Street Y. tember 2011 to Memorial Sloan Kettering’s Pediatric Day Hospital. The group more than met its goal. Since then, hats have been distributed to New York–based institutions “This is something that keeps people active, especially when they including New York-Presbyterian Komansky Children’s Hospital, Mount are home alone,” explains program assistant Dafna Gorfinkle. “We Sinai West and the American Cancer Society’s Hope Lodge, as well have goals we are trying to hit, and we find new places to donate; it as hospitals nationwide including Vassar Brothers Medical Center— keeps the project fresh and exciting. It’s a wonderful social activity, Dyson Center for Cancer Care, Johns Hopkins Kimmel Cancer and we’re happy we’re able to give back.”

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MARKET REPORT A YEAR OF GIVING M The yarn shop Jimmy Beans Wool and the around $40, but prices may vary. Participants can yarn company Lorna’s have joined forces sign up for individual months or for every project to generate thousands of dollars for select chari- throughout the year. ties throughout 2018. Each month, a renowned Designers and nonprofits for the first quarter designer will release an exclusive knitting pat- include Lorna’s Laces’s CEO Amanda Jarvis tern made using custom-dyed yarn by Lorna’s for January, who has selected the ASPCA as her Laces. Kits for the KALs will be sold via Jimmy cause; Tanis Gray for February, who will donate Beans Wool. proceeds to Save the Children; and Vogue Knit- “The collective enthusiasm to give back as a ting magazine in March, which will raise money community is infectious,” says Jimmy Beans for UNIDOS Disaster Relief & Recovery for owner Laura Zander. “With a community of our Puerto Rico. size, we anticipate we can make an impact really “We get to collaborate with 12 designers and worth something, and we get to learn about so dye custom colors for each project, and every many incredible causes along the way.” effort will be for a greater good,” says Jarvis. The Year of Giving goal is to donate $5 for “Lorna’s Laces is built on a drive to deliver inno- profound opportunity.” Knitters were able to each kit sold to a rotating charity chosen every vative products that excite the passions of [the sign up for the program as early as Giving month by the pattern designer. (Designers yarn] community, and this project is built upon Tuesday, November 28, 2017, but the program and their selected charities will be announced those very principles. To learn and share these continues through 2018. For more information, quarterly.) Each month’s project kit will cost designers’ individual community passions is a visit www.jimmybeanswool.com.

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL YARN STORE M Mark your calendars for the first-ever celebration of all things hand-dyed colorways, special patterns or collections, a custom yarn LYS, Local Yarn Store Day, Saturday, April 21. Developed by TNNA’s or LYS Day branded accessories. Yarn shops can generate enthusiasm Yarn Group, LYS Day is modeled after successful programs in other by scheduling special events such as trunk shows, celebrity appear- industries—Record Store Day, Independent Bookstore Day, Local ances, store product launches and demonstrations and create a party Comic Shop Day—that have proven track records of driving traffic atmosphere with music and food. into bricks-and-mortar retail locations. Last year, for example, “LYS Day is a day of celebration of your bricks-and-mortar shop. Independent Bookstore Day helped indie booksellers boost regular What will make this a success is for wholesalers and retailers and de- averages for April Saturdays by wide margins: 85 percent of par- signer members to create something special to encourage consumers ticipating stores reported sales increases averaging 132 percent. who are not TNNA members to engage with those who are,” Kelley “There’s been such a renaissance for bookstores and local record says. “But it’s up to the membership to organize and create worth- stores,” explains TNNA Vice President and former Yarn Group Chair while programs, like pattern release parties and special sales, which Courtney Kelley of Kelbourne Woolens. “We wanted to take this TNNA will promote to help draw people into shops.” Main Street support model other industries have used and replicate TNNA, for its part, will provide a website with participating stores it for our industry.” listed, a calendar of events and LYS Day graphics shops can use to To foment consumer interest, TNNA is encouraging wholesalers, promote their activities. Learn more at www.tnna.org/page/LYS- manufacturers, authors and designers to create unique items Day/The-Local-Yarn-Store-Day. TNNA-member yarn shops can sell on LYS Day, things like exclusive

SQUAM GOES ON M When Elizabeth Duvivier, founder of the legendary biannual Squam daughter of Tif Fussell (of Dottie Angel fame and a Squam teacher), Art Workshops, blogged that the September 2017 workshop would Duvivier hired Meg to run the events, while she serves in an executive be the last, she received several offers to take over the event, none of director capacity. For updates on Squam, visit www.squamart which right to her. But after getting to know artist Meg Fussell, workshops.com/blog.

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INDIE ONLINE MALL NEW PRESIDENT M What if all the cool vendors at your local fiber by weight but by fiber types, sheep breeds and FOR COATS festival had an online market where they could dye styles. sell direct? This was the question that gave birth FiberCrafty launched in May 2017; since then, M Coats, the world’s leading industrial to FiberCrafty.com, an online marketplace where 140 shops have opened under its virtual umbrella, thread manufacturer and producer of spinners, dyers and sellers of fibery miscellany offering nearly 1,300 products ranging from hand- Coats, Red Heart, FreeSpirit and Anchor, can open online storefronts. dyed sock yarns and rovings to markers, has appointed Stephanie Leichtweis as Unlike Etsy, which has become a vast digital project bags, shawl brooches, sheep-shaped soap, president of North America Crafts. She bazaar selling everything from crystals to succu- fleeces and more. replaces Michael Schofer, who now lents, FiberCrafty focuses exclusively on the fiber “My hope is that FiberCrafty becomes the serves as chief supply chain officer. Leicht- crafting community. Developed by passionate go-to for someone who wants to buy from indie weis comes to Coats from her position knitter, spinner and crocheter Pam Maher, the site dyers or indie bag makers and that they see it as CEO of Fibre-Craft LLC, which pro- “speaks” the language of the fiberati. Looking as the de facto option for indie fiber shopping,” vides creative craft brands in the United States and internationally. for yarn? You can search in multiple ways, not only Maher says. Check it out at www.fibercrafty.com. “Stephanie has wide-ranging experi- ence in product development, innovation, brand management, sales and marketing strategy, as well as an established track record in running a business in the crafts sector,” says Chief Executive Rajiv Sharma. “She is ideally placed to lead our North America Crafts business as we pursue profitable sales growth.” Leichtweis is charged with accelerating profitable sales growth through enhanced consumer marketing. She also joins the recently launched Coats Global Innovation Forum, an internal group tasked with de- veloping and delivering pioneering ideas in threads, yarns and in order to meet customers’ evolving needs. PEACE BEGINS WITH YOU M Christina Campbell, a.k.a. the Healthy Knitter, with a more complicated project, tangible fund- wanted to write a book about walking and knitting. raising and round-the-world stitching for peace. As a professor of nutrition and physical activity Asking $3 for the pattern—an asymmetric at a major research university, she thought knitters triangular shawl that evokes the ripple effect— would love to learn more about exercise. Campbell is donating proceeds, after expenses, to Not so much. Campbell soon discovered that three nonprofit organizations: Camino de Paz, a knitters were about as interested in learning about New Mexico middle school that teaches children the benefits of walking as they are visiting a doctor how to run a sustainable farm in the context of an who talks about weight. As she continued to ex- academic curriculum; The Wilderness Awareness plore the notion of “healthy knitting,” Campbell’s School, which connects young people and adults ideas about health expanded. If exercise makes with nature; and Every Mother Counts, dedicated someone feel less stressed, maybe encouraging to reducing maternal mortality in the United peace was the answer? States and globally. In 2015, Campbell held her first peace-along by In an effort to “peace it forward,” Yarn Scout, “I am sincerely trying to build peace in our publishing a simple cowl pattern, Knit Your Peace, a Bozeman, Montana, yarn shop, offered special community and nation,” Campbell says. “So which sold for $5. She provided Ravelry uploads Project Peace kits in their own hand-dyed color- many people are looking for a glimmer of hope, from December 1–21 with ideas about how to live way, as well as in three color combinations of Mal- and with this you get the pattern, you get the more peacefully to those who purchased her pat- abrigo Silky Merino, and are donating 20 percent knitting. And if you read the posts, you realize tern. By the end of her second peace-along, in De- of the proceeds from kit sales to The Dreaming it’s your choice to choose peace, which puts you cember 2016, 25,000 people from every continent Zebra Foundation. Plus, yarn shop and dyer back into being responsive to what’s happening in except Antarctica had downloaded the pattern and Knit Circus of Madison, Wisconsin, sold kits to the world instead of being reactive.” To purchase ostensibly were knitting for peace. Buoyed by her support the project, with 10 percent of profits the pattern, visit www.ravelry.com/patterns/li- success, in 2017 Campbell upped the involvement going to Heifer International. brary/project-peace-2017. 008-013_YMN0118_MarketReport:Layout 1 12/18/17 2:08 PM Page 12

MARKET REPORT

NEW KIDS ON THE MAGALOG BLOCK M In the continuing quest to engage wholesale Happenings. Content will focus on yarn fea- free patterns, a runway-to-knitwear design and, ultimately, retail customers, two major tures, new designs, inspiration boards, kit scoop, behind-the-scenes photos of staff, yarn companies launched magalogs this winter. ideas, free pattern highlights, information about the family members Classic Elite presses into What’s a magalog? A portmanteau of “maga- how yarn shops use Plymouth products, industry service as models, and industry news. zine” and “catalog,” it’s a cross between the happenings and other news. “We wanted to have a conversation with two types of publications, offering elements Classic Elite, too, hopes to capture the our retailers on a regular basis,” Perry ex- of each. Plymouth Yarn Company is debut- imagination of the larger stitching community plains. “How do we communicate with our ing what it calls an e-magazine on its website, through its business-to-business-to-consumer customers and their customers meaningfully while Classic Elite Yarns is launching a 44- printed publication. Slated for biannual re- when the landscape has shifted so dramati- page print pub. Both premier in January. lease to introduce new seasonal offerings, cally? We wanted something tactile that a “We definitely want to capitalize on knit- Classic Elite’s The Hub ships directly to whole- shop can leave on the community table or ters and yarn shops and have them participate sale customers. “This publication is intended offer at a special event that would have some in the magazine,” explains Kaelin Hearn, for retailers,” explains Classic Elite owner value to the person receiving it.” marketing director and design coordinator at Betsy Perry, “while also being something they To view Plymouth Yarn Magazine, visit Plymouth. “We’ll have features about local can share with their customers, introducing www.plymouthyarn.com/magazine. To re- yarn shops, what’s happening there and what them to the new spring offerings, including quest a copy of The Hub, call (800) 444-KNIT designs they are creating with our yarns. We yarns, what patterns will be available and or email [email protected]. really want to engage yarn shops and cele- other information.” brate the knitting community.” The first issue of The Hub Scheduled to be updated twice a month, includes a history of Classic Elite’s Plymouth Yarn Magazine features four major flagship mohair-blend yarn, La sections delineated by color-coded tabs: Gran, along with a piece about Yarn, Design, Free Patterns, and Shops and how linen yarn is manufactured,

GARN IT! M For the first time, BC Garn, the venerable Danish wholesaler its warehouse GOTS certified. “This is an added bonus for of natural yarns founded in 1972, has a North American people who are concerned about the environment,” Osborn distributor. Kelbourne Woolens, which is celebrating its 10th says. “GOTS certification is not just about the wool; the anniversary in 2018, will distribute BC Garn products in manufacturing and social conditions of the manufacturing North America. Kelbourne will also continue to distribute are considered, too. We’re proud to be able to support that.” yarns from The Fibre Co. in North America. Also new from Kelbourne is the company’s first Focusing on basic, well-priced yarns—many of them Kelbourne Woolens–branded yarn, Andorra, a 2-ply 60% organic—the BC Garn range gives Kelbourne mainstay yarns merino/20% Highland wool/20% mohair sport weight in to offer in addition to the luxury blends from The Fibre Co. twelve colors. The release comes with a 1960s-inspired “What appealed to us about the yarns,” explains Kelbourne pattern collection by Osborn’s business partner, Courtney Woolens co-owner Kate Gagnon Osborn, “is that they are Kelley. (Names in the collection are an homage to the really good-quality basics from a well-established company.” British television series Call the Midwife, which Kelley In February, Kelbourne will introduce seven BC Garn products binge-watched while finishing samples.) to the North American market, which will include organic “Everyone loves merino,” Osborn says of Kelbourne’s new wool, wool, organic cotton, linen, tussah silk and a wool/ yarn. “Highland wool adds some strength and tooth, which cotton blend. you want in a yarn for stitch definition and texture. The To maintain the Global Organic Standard (GOTS) mohair provides sheen, a lot of strength and a little halo.” certification of certain BC Garn yarns—GOTS is a stringent Look for Kelbourne-style pattern support for the BC organic fiber processing standard that requires independent Garn line at the TNNA trade show in June. For more infor- vetting of the entire supply chain—Kelbourne Woolens had mation, visit www.kelbournewoolens.com.

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YMN CALENDAR Events to keep you in stitches this winter and spring.

January 12–14 February 24–March 12 April 5–8 April 21 Vogue Knitting LIVE! Roving Indiana Yarn Crawl Minnesota Yarn Shop Hop Olde Liberty Fibre Faire New York Marriott Marquis Various locations Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN Bedford Breakfast Lions Club New York, NY Rovingindiana.com minnesotayarnshophop.com Bedford, VA vogueknittinglive.com olfibrefaire.com February 28–March 3 April 6–8 January 13 Vogue Knitting Destinations: Pittsburgh Creative Arts Festival: April 26 Winter Woolfest 2018 Berkshires Knitting Intensive Knit, Crochet, , Create! Vogue Knitting Tour of Toronto The Columbian Theatre Red Lion Inn David L. Lawrence Convention Center and Montreal Wamego, KS Berkshires, MA Pittsburgh, PA travelingtogether.net/knitting.htm#Canada facebook.com/WinterWoolfest vogueknittinglive.com/berkshires18 pghknitandcrochet.com April 27–28 January 19–21 March 1–4 April 6–8 Yellow Rose Fiber Producers Fiesta Slater Mill Knitting Weekend and Rose City Yarn Crawl Fiber Forward: A Juried Exhibition Seguin-Guadalupe County Coliseum Marketplace Portland, OR Celebrating Knit and Crochet Seguin, TX Traditional Arts Studio rosecityyarncrawl.com David L. Lawrence Convention Center yellowrosefiberproducers.com Pawtucket, RI Pittsburgh, PA slatermill.org/calendar/10th-annual- March 9–10 fiberforwardpgh.com April 27–29 knitting-weekend Jay County Fiber Arts Festival Okfiberfest Jay Community Center April 6–9 Okanogan County Fairgrounds Agriplex January 25–28 Portland, IN Vogue Knitting Destinations: Okanogan, WI Oxford Fiber Arts Festival Pavilion visitjaycounty.com/fiberfest Imperial Yarn and Imperial okfiberfest.org Oxford, MS Stock Ranch oxfordarts.com/events/fiberfest March 9–11 Imperial Stock Ranch April 27–29 Vogue Knitting LIVE Chicago Maupin, OR Woolith Fair: A Greater Vancouver January 26–28 Hilton Chicago Hotel vogueknittinglive.com/imperial18 Yarn Crawl TNNA Winter Trade Show Chicago, IL Vancouver, British Columbia Embassy Suites by Hilton vogueknittinglive.com April 7–8 woolithfair.ca Las Vegas, NV YarnCon tnna.org March 12 Chicago Journeymen Plumbers April 28 Yarn Market News Summit Union Hall Connecticut Sheep, Wool and Fiber January 27 Hilton Chicago Hotel Chicago, IL Festival Farm Fiber Days Chicago, IL yarncon.com Tolland County Agricultural Center Wayland Winter Farmers’ Market yarnmarketnews.com/conferences Vernon, CT Wayland, MA April 12–15 ctsheep.com farmfresh.org/food/farmersmarkets_ March 13–24 Interweave Yarn Fest details.php?market=387 Vogue Knitting Tour of Scotland Loveland, CO April 28 and England interweaveyarnfest.com Gore Place Sheep Shearing Festival February 9–11 travelingtogether.net/knitting.htm Gore Place Delmarva Wool and Fiber Expo April 13–14 Waltham, MA Ocean City Convention Center March 15–17 Fiber Event at Greencastle goreplace.org/sheepshearing-festival Ocean City, MD Edinburgh Yarn Festival Putnam County Fairgrounds woolandfiber.com Edinburgh Corn Exchange Greencastle, IN April 28 Edinburgh, Scotland thefiberevent.com Powahatan’s Festival of Fiber February 10–11 edinyarnfest.com Village of Powahatan Buckeye Alpaca Show April 13–14 Powahatan, VA Arena Complex Summit County March 15–18 Spring Creative Festival powhatansfestivaloffiber.com Fairgrounds Knit North Yarn Crawl International Centre Entrance 1 Tallmadge, OH Boston, MA Mississauga, Ontario April 28–29 buckeyealpacashow.com knitnorthyarncrawl.com csnf.com/spring-show New York’s Washington County Fiber Tour February 15–18 March 17 April 14 Washington County, NY Madrona Fiber Arts Winter Retreat Heartland Fiberpalooza New Jersey Needle Festival washingtoncountyfibertour.org Hotel Murano Winterset Elementary School Presbyterian Church Tacoma, WA Winterset, IA Pluckemin, NJ April 28 madronafiberarts.com heartlandfiber.net/fiberpalooza needlefest.com/NJNeedleFestival.htm Toronto Knitters Frolic Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre February 23–26 March 22–25 April 14–15 Toronto, Canada Stitches West Stitches United Spring Fiber Expo frolic.torontoknittersguild.ca Santa Clara Convention Center Connecticut Convention Center Washtenaw Farm Council Grounds Santa Clara, CA and Marriott Ann Arbor, MI May 4–6 knittinguniverse.com/west Hartford, CT fiberexpo.com/page/page/4831882.htm Rites of Spring Fiber Frolic Yarn Tour knittinguniverse.com/stitches Wisconsin February 23–March 11 April 19–22 bleatinghearthaven.com/2018-rites-of- Roving Indiana Yarn Crawl March 23–24 Long Island Yarn Crawl spring-fiber-frolic.html Central IN Fibres West Long Island, NY rovingindiana.com Cloverdale Exhibition Park Fairgrounds longislandyarncrawl.com May 5–6 Coverdale, British Columbia Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival February 24 fibreswest.com April 20–22 Howard County Fairgrounds Farm Fiber Days Countryside Artisans Spring Studio Tour West Friendship, MD Wayland Winter Farmers’ Market March 23–24 Maryland Countryside sheepandwool.org Wayland, MA Carolina Fiber Fest countrysideartisans.com/index.htm farmfresh.org/food/farmersmarkets_ North Carolina State Fairgrounds details.php?market=387 Raleigh, NC April 20–22 carolinafiberfest.org Smoky Mountain Fiber Arts Festival February 24–26 Great Smoky Mountain Heritage Center Sheep in the City Getaway April 5–8 Townsend, TN Comfort Suites Milwaukee Airport Dallas–Fort Worth Fiber Fest smokymountainfiberartsfestival.org Oak Creek, WI Irving Convention Center sheepinthecitygetaway.com Irving, TX dfwfiberfest.org

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BOOK REVIEWS BYCAROLJ.SULCOSKI

M Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate used to a slightly different knitting M The Mitten Handbook M Gradient Knits Knitting Book (revised edition) style. (Less experienced knitters, take By Mary Scott Huff By Tanis Gray By the editors of Vogue Knitting note: Shida’s stitch patterns tend to- Harry N. Abrams; $19.99 Barron’s; $21.99 Sixth&Spring Books; $39.95 ward the more advanced.) Dive into ISBN: 978-1419726620 ISBN: 978-1438010595 ISBN: 978-1942021698 this gorgeous collection for a burst If your frostbitten Designer/teacher Tanis Gray A reference that calls itself The of inspiration and excitement as you fingers long for knows just what to do with yarns Ultimate Knitting Book has big explore the wonderful assortment cozy warmth, if that slowly melt from one color to shoes to fill, but this classic—newly of patterns highlighting the beauty you’ve got ideas another, and it shows: each pattern revised and formatted—remains a of Japanese knitting. for mittens but in this book is presented as part go-to source can’t find the of a lesson, explaining why a partic- for knitters M Traditional Swedish Knitting right patterns, or ular technique used in that pattern eager to ex- Patterns if you have hands that just aren’t the works especially well with gradients pand their By Maja Karlsson average size or shape, then you’ve and mini-skeins. Textural stitch- knowledge. Trafalgar Square Books; $24.95 got to get your hands on Mary Scott work, , and thrumming The sheer ISBN: 978-1570768217 Huff’s guide for making the perfect are a few of scope of the is known for many things— mitten. Egged on by eager students, the techniques book is im- meatballs, ABBA and Ikea come to Huff has assembled a guide that showcasing pressive, covering virtually every mind—but when knitters think of gives mitten knitters everything they the gorgeous, topic in the world of yarn and knitting. Sweden, they invariably picture the need. This information-packed book mostly hand- Basic skills are included, of course, gorgeous stranded knitwear. Maja starts with a plain-vanilla template, dyed yarns. along with advice on tools and yarn Karlsson dove deeply into traditional then breaks down mittens to their Clear instruc- choice, as well as a terrific section Swedish pat- components, exploring variations on tions and photo- to help readers decipher and follow terns to create each. Valuable sections on fit and graphs walk readers through skills knitting patterns. And there’s more this lovely collec- different approaches to construction used in the patterns, while Gray —a finishing guide, advice on meas- tion. Motifs rang- are followed by a fetching collection provides cheery encouragement to urement and fit, instructions on ing from reindeer of 20 patterns. A terrific source of help the knitting go smoothly. how to knit collars, buttonholes and to roses grace information and inspiration, The edgings. Aspiring designers will note the designs, Mitten Handbook is a knitting-book- M Slow Knitting: A Journey new sections on designing shawls along with mod- collection must-have. From Sheep to Skein to Stitch and accessories as well as sweaters. ern, sometimes unexpected, colors By Hannah Thiessen Color-coded chapters, running cross- and thoughtful design details. A M Protest Knits Harry N. Abrams; $29.99 references and a spiffy new design handy selection of additional motifs By Geraldine Warner ISBN: 978-1419726682 worksheet are other welcome addi- is a welcome bonus and will have Herbert Press; $16 As Ferris Bueller once said, “Life tions. Clean, contemporary design you happily envisioning even more ISBN: 978-1912217007 moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and scores of clear photos and draw- delightful stranded beauties to knit. A century and look around once in a while, ings help ensure this book’s place as ago, knitters you could miss it.” Substitute “knit- a truly essential knitting reference. M Baby Botanicals responded ting” at the beginning of the quote By Alana Dakos to political and you’ve got the philosophy be- M Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible NNK Press; $14 events by hind this new book. Spurred on by By Hitomi Shida; translated by ISBN: 978-0988324954 knitting socks her belief that knitters should pause Gayle Roehm You may know Alana Dakos by her for dough- instead of blindly rushing through Tuttle Publishing; $16.95 nom de knit, “Never Not Knitting,” boys; today, projects, Thiessen urges knitters to ISBN: 978-4805314531 and have no doubt oohed and dissatisfied crafters are knitting approach This fantastic aahed over her hats and armbands in which to the craft in a stitch dictionary nature-inspired protest-march. Whether your taste different way. features more collection for runs to the subtle (mittens that read She offers than 250 adults, Botanical “Very Upset”) or the direct (a cro- a set of goals Japanese pat- Knits. Giving cheted pincushion/voodoo ), this (sourcing terns, mainly equal time to book gives you plenty of ways to ex- yarns care- lace, cable wee ones, Dakos press your beliefs: A brain-inspired fully, consider- and twisted presents pint- hat to stand up for science, a knitted ing one’s effect on the environment, stitches, created sized versions of five of her popular “vote” button to wear while reg- and experimenting fearlessly, for by renowned designer Hitomi Shida adult styles in this adorable collection. istering new voters, and a crocheted example), helping knitters reevalu- and carefully translated by knitting Leafy motifs abound in these kid- rainbow bike-seat cover showing ate how their individual crafts play expert Gayle Roehm. In keeping with sized beauties, which show off the your pride are crafty alternatives to into larger issues like consumerism Japanese style, patterns are charted clean styling and exquisite details posters and petitions. Photographs and mindfulness. Profiles of yarn only and accompanied by closeup that Dakos is known for. The four of protesters wearing handcrafted companies that exemplify the slow- photos that allow readers to focus cardigans and one pullover are of- items are featured prominently, knitting ethos and a carefully cur- on intricate details. Knitters new to fered in a vast size range, allowing while political slogans, sprinkled ated selection of patterns provide Japanese lace will appreciate Roehm’s every kid in the family, from baby liberally throughout, help put the a starting point for slowing down thoughtful introduction as they get to teen, to share in the knitted love. fire in your needles. and enjoying each and every stitch.

14 014-015_YMJAN18Books.FINAL:Layout 1 12/15/17 11:12 AM Page 15

M Alterknit Stitch Dictionary M Silk Road Socks (2nd edition) M Knitting the Continental Way M The Curse of the Boyfriend By Andrea Rangel By Hunter Hammersen By Denise Mazal Resnerova Sweater Interweave/F+W; $26.99 Pantsville Press; $26.95 AuthorHouse; $28.99 By Alanna Okun ISBN: 978-1632505538 ISBN: 978-0984998289 ISBN: 978-1524600235 Flatiron Books; $24.99 Just because Hunter Hammersen has a rabid follow- Resnerova is ISBN: 978-1250095626 you love peeries ing, and it’s small wonder, given her a staunch Fans of Buzzfeed will remember and XOs and refined sensibility and meticulously proponent of Okun as the writer who skillfully lice patterns crafted designs. Her first book, Silk Continental- introduced knitting topics to the non- doesn’t mean Road Socks, out of print in recent style knitting, knitting masses. She has you can’t also years, has finally been rereleased in in which the moved on from Buzzfeed, but she be fascinated an updated second edition. The 14 working yarn hasn’t lost her love of crafting. Her with less tradi- original patterns, inspired by Oriental is held and first book, an tional stranded-knitting patterns. No rugs, are all here, with added sizing manipulated in the left hand. The essay collection one knows this better than Rangel, so each pattern Prague native, who now owns a yarn that is by turns who has assembled a diverse can be knit in shop in Texas, also believes that lighthearted and collection of decidedly untraditional both fingering the best way to learn how to knit is touching, dem- patterns and motifs. You won’t find a and sport/DK- to first learn how to crochet, so that onstrates that snowflake or a reindeer here, but weight yarns. holding the yarn in your left hand will Okun’s literary you will find chickens and hippos, as Two new seem easy and natural. She there- talent isn’t lim- well as skull and crossbones, zombies patterns are in- fore devotes the first half of her ited to the listicle. Using her love and saguaro cacti. If representa- cluded, along book to the basics of crochet; only of stitching as a jumping-off point, tional motifs aren’t your thing, you’ll with updated photos and charts. after this crash course will Okun puts her own spin on the curse find many other striking options, in- Anyone who appreciates beautifully the reader cast on her first knitted of the boyfriend sweater, reveals her cluding geometric patterns, swirling designed patterns featuring gor- stitch. Along the way, Resnerova own anxieties, and writes movingly lines, tiles and tessellations. Five geous lace and cables will want to provides plenty of photographs, of the grief she feels when thinking inviting designs showcase these snap this one up. step-by-step instructions and tips of her late grandparents. (Not to eclectic stitch patterns and will get and tricks, all of which are inter- worry, Buzzfeed fans: She you started on your own alternate M The Art of Lithuanian Knitting spersed with photographs of the includes a few lists you’ll love, like stranded-knitting voyage. By Donna Druchunas and Czech Republic and personal reflec- the brilliant “Words They Need to June L. Hall tions and vignettes from her life. Invent for Crafters.”) The book, M Stitch Camp Trafalgar Square Books; $29.95 Resnerova’s untraditional approach filled with humor, heart and may- By Nicole Blum and Catherine ISBN: 978-1570768484 may not appeal to all readers, but be even a life lesson or two, is Newman Druchunas and Hall have many her enthusiasm and love of knitting a must-read for those who share Storey; $19.95 things in common: a love of knitting, shine through on every page. love of all things crafty. ISBN: 978-1612127507 a gift for writing and a fascination It is a universal with Lithuania. They’ve combined all truth that three loves into a richly researched I TREND WATCH children love to book that explores the history of make things. knitting in this Baltic nation. Deftly Here’s what was selling the first week They also com- intermingling geographical tidbits, plain of being interviews with knitters and other of December 2017: bored—often. artists, and stories from history, the Amazon Knitting List (print publications) The next time your kid claims there’s duo introduce • Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book (revised edition), by nothing to do, hand over Stitch Camp, readers to the the editors of Vogue Knitting (Sixth&Spring Books) which taps into maker culture by long tradition • Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible, by Hitomi Shida and translated by introducing six fiber crafts: , of knitting Gayle Roehm (Tuttle Publishing) knitting, crochet, , embroi- in Lithuania, • Alterknit Stitch Dictionary, by Andrea Rangel (Interweave/F+W)) dery and felting. Each section walks a country per- • Slow Knitting, by Hannah Thiessen (Harry N. Abrams) kids step by step, photo by photo, haps not as • 750 Knitting Stitches (St. Martin’s Griffin) through the basics. Projects include well known small, quick items that are easy to for its knitting Amazon Crochet List (print publications) complete as well as larger undertak- as nearby Estonia or Russia. Twenty- • A to Z Crochet (Martingale & Co.) ings with more complex design ele- five original patterns draw on this • Crochet One-Skein Wonders (Storey) ments. There are so many wonderful vibrant history, adapting traditional • The Complete Book of Crochet Stitch Designs, by things about this book—intriguing stitches, color motifs and techniques Linda P.Schapper (Lark Crafts) insets with snippets of knowledge, for contemporary knitters. A wealth the colorful, photo-laden design, the of photographs brings Lithuanian Barnes & Noble Knitting List (print publications) quirky projects—but Stitch Camp’s history and culture to life—and, more • Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book (Sixth&Spring Books) best feature is its tone: matter important, helps preserve these • Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible, by Hitomi Shida (Tuttle Publishing) of fact, informative, accessible but precious textile traditions for future • Slow Knitting, by Hannah Thiessen (Harry N. Abrams) never condescending. generations of crafters.

15

016-019_YMJAN18_Yarn:Layout 1 12/13/17 11:23 AM Page 16 > Cascade Yarns Hampton Specs: 15 colors; 70% Pima cotton/30% linen; 273yds/100g : 22–24 sts = 4" on U.S. 5–6 needles Distinctions: The sleekness of linen elevates cotton’s game once again in this good-looking combo. Whereas unmercerized cotton has a flat, matte finish, Hampton glistens with the subtle sheen flax brings to this DK. But the soft- ness? That’s all Pima. Projects: Hampton’s breathability and generous put-up make it a can- didate for a spring/summer work- horse. Knit cardigans, tanks, wraps and more with this versatile yarn.

New to linen and hemp? See how yarn companies continue

to find new ways to showcase beautiful bast fibers. > Schoppel Wolle/Skacel Collection El Linio Specs: 12 colors; 100% linen; 164yds/50g Gauge: 18–24 sts = 4" on U.S. 0–4 needles Distinctions: Put up in the cutest bundle ever, El Linio is a tape yarn so slender it looks to have been knitted by elves. But like all linens, this tonal chainette is fiercer than it looks—a true, shiny warrior with the strength to drag home groceries. Projects: This sophisticated ribbon adds subtle texture to summer tops and shawls and would make a great point of departure for BASTON figure-skimming cardigans. By Leslie Petrovski PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS TULLIS

Quince & Co. Kestrel Specs: 22 colors; 100% organic linen; 76yds/50g Gauge: 14–16 sts = 4" on U.S. 8–10½ needles > Distinctions: Imbued with the unmistakable gloss of 100 percent linen, Kestrel is a ribbon yarn constructed from a knitted tube. Knitting up in the chunky/worsted range, Kestrel’s clever construction delivers the three-dimensional stitches characteristic of a ribbon yarn but avoids the stiffness typical of most linens. Projects: Think easy throw-ons with plenty of drapey, positive ease, like Quince’s Deschain, a boxy pullover with lace features by Leila Raabe, or Davis by Pam Allen, a loose tee with bracelet-length sleeves.

16 016-019_YMJAN18_Yarn:Layout 1 12/13/17 11:23 AM Page 17

YARN FO RWARD >

Purl Soho Linen Quill Specs: 14 colors; 50% fine Highland wool/ 35% alpaca/15% linen; 137yds/50g Gauge: 26–30 sts = 4" on U.S. 2–5 needles Distinctions: Purl Soho launched Linen Quill in 2016, and since then the yarn has become some- thing of a cult favorite for its gorgeous drape, versatility and crisp finish. Use bigger needles on this fingering weight for an airy, see-through fabric, smaller ones for a tighter knit. Projects: Leave it to Purl Soho to provide the kind of pattern support that yields classics in multiple gauges, like the Open Air Wrap, the perfect Lightweight Raglan Pullover, and Julie Hoover’s meticulously crafted V-neck pattern, Goode.

Hemp for Knitting allhemp6LUX Specs: 13 colors; 100% hemp; 143yds/100g Gauge: 22 sts = 4" on U.S. 5 needles Distinctions: What if you could buy hemp yarn > that’s already been washed into soft submission? Look no further than allhemp6LUX. The company dyes each strand separately before for peak luster and color. Projects: Almost indestructible, hemp is the ideal medium for a garment that stands, sits, dances and hangs in the closet, so go ahead and knit the skirt. Add a ruffle at the to leverage hemp’s much-vaunted drape and watch it swing.

Rowan Hemp Tweed Specs: 17 colors; 75% wool/25% true hemp; 104yds/50g > Gauge: 19 sts = 4" on U.S. 7 needles Distinctions: Hemp steals the show in this sur- prisingly luxurious yarn. Comingling with a hardy wool, hemp fibers and slubs lend a bright sheen and washability to this modern blend that unfurls into yards of interesting, textured stockinette. Projects: Opt for a sweater’s quantity and let the yarn speak for itself in simple pullovers, tees and scarves. It’s soft enough for next-to-skin garments and versatile enough for four seasons of wear.

yarn reviews continue on page 18

17 016-019_YMJAN18_Yarn:Layout 1 12/13/17 11:24 AM Page 18

Plymouth Yarn Equinox Specs: 8 solid and 6 hand-dyed BASTON colors; 65% extrafine merino/ > 20% linen/15% silk; 439yds/100g Gauge: 22 sts = 4" on U.S. 5 needles Distinctions: New for spring, Equinox combines must-have merino for softness, silk for sheen and linen for coolness to create a spot-on exposed- shoulder-season DK. Its solid and hand-dyed hues color-coordinate for easy mix and matching. Projects: Combine Equinox’s comple- mentary solids and hand-dyed colors in shawls, scarves and wraps to ward off overzealous air conditioning. >

Fibra Natura Flax Classic Elite Yarns Hanako Specs: 31 colors; 100% linen; 137yds/50g Specs: 12 colors; 50% cotton/50% Gauge: 24 sts = 4" on U.S. 5 needles linen; 220yds/100g > Distinctions: This is a classic plied linen Gauge: 20 sts = 4" on U.S. 7 needles yarn, a little stiff and cool to the touch, Distinctions: Cotton gets a boost of but dazzling in the way linen has of taking elegance and strength from linen in this up dye. It’s a light DK that you’ll want easy-wearing worsted, which debuted to knit or crochet something pretty with, last spring. Hanako’s round 5-ply con- because you’ll have it forever. Linen just struction whips up into high-definition gets softer and more beautiful the more knits and purls. you wash and wear it. Projects: Look to Tian Foley’s Hanako Projects: Deploy this yarn in service of Garter Pullover as the perfect vehicle hardworking items such as dishcloths, for this yarn. With its modern split hemline hand towels and summer tank tops, and cuffs and garter-stitch ridges, or take advantage of its predilection for the sweater shows off Hanako’s strong yawning eyelets by stitching up lace stitch definition and beautiful drape to wraps and shawls. full advantage.

18 016-019_YMJAN18_Yarn:Layout 1 12/13/17 11:24 AM Page 19 >

Elsebeth Lavold/Knitting Fever Hempathy Specs: 43 colors; 41% cotton/34% hemp/20% Modal; 153yds/50g Gauge: 22–23 sts = 4" on U.S. 4 needles Distinctions: What can hemp not do? Almost too good to be true, hemp is antimicrobial, UV-resistant and one of the toughest fibers you’ll ever slide onto your needles. Plus, it just gets softer and more pliable with wear. This well-established DK blend comes in a wide range of saturated colors and knits up into soft, skin-friendly fabrics. Projects: Put Hempathy to work in market bags, summer tanks and tees, and lacy cardigans and wraps.

Louet Euroflax Lace Specs: 35 colors; 100% wet-spun linen; 630yds/110g > Gauge: Not given Distinctions: Don’t expect this yarn to bound from one needle to the next like wool. But what it lacks in bounce, it more than compensates for in beauty and strength. Choose > wood or bamboo needles for better grip. Swatch and wash to ensure The Fibre Co. Meadow FOs come out as expected, then Specs: 23 colors; 40% merino wool/25% enjoy. baby llama/20% silk/15% linen; 545yds/100g Projects: If your knitting motivation Gauge: 32–36 sts = 4" on U.S. 1–3 needles fades with the first sign of tulips, Distinctions: As lush as a field of young put a pretty lace shawl pattern into grass, Meadow combines the feel of a your shopping cart along with a luxury yarn with the informal look of a more cone of Euroflax and whip up that artisanal product. Because of the way the garment you’ve been coveting—it different fibers take dye, this heavy lace- will block out like angel wings. weight has a heathered quality, adding interest to simple pieces. Projects: You can’t go wrong if you turn to the five-piece collection Hikari (Japanese for “light”) by Michiyo. Designed for Fibre Co., the collection takes full advantage of this yarn’s drape and stitch definition in gar- ments such as Tsumuzikaze, a unique pull- over with an asymmetrical hem, and Mori, a lacy cardigan that doubles as a shawl. 020_YMJAN18TNNA.FINAL:Layout 1 12/15/17 8:59 AM Page 20

THE NATIONAL NEEDLEARTS ASSOCIATION BYSUSANLANE,EXECUTIVEDIRECTOR More in Store for TNNA

s I write, there is a chill in the air here creating a stronger consumer base for TNNA solution designed to meet all the compli- at TNNA headquarters in Chicago, and members. Starting in 2018, we will work ance requirements of the Affordable Care Act. A we’re gearing up for warmer weather toward completing our goals and objectives By offering affordable coverage along with and three days of networking, thought sharing and look forward to sharing with our members proactive cost containment and employee and collaboration at the 2018 Winter Market in and the needlearts market updates on our wellness features, member companies can Las Vegas (January 26–28). progress and successes. strategically manage healthcare costs while This year’s Winter Market has been rede- Last October marked the fifth annual still maximizing benefits for their employees. signed with your shopping experience in Spinzilla. Each year, this monster of a In November, TNNA hosted a fantastic mind. With a new hotel-show layout, you’ll week raises funds and awareness for the webinar with designer Edie Eckman on how have the opportunity to meet directly with TNNA Foundation, which seeks to foster cur- to use an expert teacher to draw attention to more than 140 wholesalers and check out the iosity, creativity and a feeling of achievement the products and services you offer. It offered latest products and trends in a more intimate through the teaching of needlearts. In 2017, we insights on what questions to ask before space. I look forward to seeing you there. had more than 1,600 spinners and 72 teams hiring a teacher, how to promote the teachers We had a busy fall at TNNA and are plan- register to participate, and 5,163,890 yards of who are working in your shop, and best prac- ning on an even busier winter. In October, the yarn were spun during the event. We’re already tices when structuring teacher agreements. board of directors approved our new 2018– busy getting ready for Spinzilla 2018 (October Our education team is already working on our 2021 strategic plan. With actionable goals and 1–7). 2018 webinar calendar and securing more great objectives, the plan provides a roadmap for We also announced in October an exciting teachers to present on topics of interest for the next three years. The three goals include partnership with HRB Solutions, Inc., who needlearts professionals. I am excited by the creating a cohesive membership that cultivates will provide our members with the opportunity many events, partnerships and educational the entire industry ecosystem in support of to participate in Lifestyle Health Plans. The opportunities TNNA has on the horizon for dynamic business structures, defining and program is designed to give our members a next year and all that 2018 has in store for the strengthening TNNA’s value proposition and comprehensive and affordable healthcare needlearts industry.

TNNA, founded in 1974, is a professional organization representing wholesalers, manufacturers, distributors, designers, publishers and other companies supporting the needlearts industry. For more information, visit www.tnna.org or call (800) 889-8662. 021_YMJAN18CYC.FINAL:Layout 1 12/12/17 11:18 PM Page 21

CRAFT YARN COUNCIL BYJENNYBESSONETTE,EXECUTIVEDIRECTOR Standards, Updated

n the fall of 2003, a time when hundreds CYC’s former executive director, to gather a • An explanation of schematics has been added. of thousands of new needleworkers were group of industry notables to update S&G. The • The crochet and needle sizing charts have I entering the marketplace, the Craft Yarn review process took a year. We cannot thank been expanded and steel sizes have Council introduced the first industry Standards & the members of the review committee, who been added. Guidelines (S&G) for knitting and crochet. The spent many hours writing and editing and lend- • Information about care labeling and commonly guidelines were the result of months of work by ing their expertise to this effort, enough. Special used symbols has been added. representatives of all segments of the yarn indus- thanks to Carla Scott and Joni Coniglio, both • Guidelines for designers who want to submit try to establish a series of guidelines and sym- of whom were instrumental in formalizing the project ideas to yarn companies or magazines bols to bring uniformity to yarn, needle and hook original guidelines, for their contributions. have been completely rewritten. labeling and to patterns. The goal: to make it The newly revised Standards & Guidelines pdf One of the most significant changes involves easier for industry manufacturers, publishers and can be downloaded at www.YarnStandards.com. project pattern ratings. In the past, consumers designers to prepare consumer-friendly products Following are highlights of a few of the changes: were asked to rate their skill level as either be- and for consumers to select the right materials • Abbreviations for basic Tunisian crochet stitches ginner, intermediate or experienced. The revised for projects and complete them successfully. have been added. levels, now entitled Project Levels, rank knit We understood at the outset that acceptance • An expanded list of knit chart symbols and cable and crochet patterns, not consumers. The actual of the symbols and charts would not be immedi- symbols have been added. symbols remain the same, but two of the cate- ate, but that over time they would come to be • A list of commonly used abbreviations for loom gories were renamed. Now the breakdown is: accepted and commonly used. This proved to be knitting have been added. Basic, Easy, Intermediate and Complex. true. We also said S&G would be organic, chang- • An explanation of wraps per inch has been As CYC has always stressed, S&G provide a ing as the industry grew. As a result, we have added to better serve weavers. framework of common definitions, explanations made incremental changes since 2003. • Body measurement charts have been updated and symbols for crochet and knitting. As with In 2016, the CYC board agreed it was time for where necessary. other areas of S&G, over time they will be updat- a more thorough review and asked Mary Colucci, • Hand and shoe sizing guidelines have been added. ed and refined. We welcome your comments.

The Craft Yarn Council was formed in 1981 to raise awareness about fibers. Visit craftyarncouncil.com or knitandcrochet.com for more information. 022_YMJAN18YarnGroup.FINAL:Layout 1 12/12/17 11:33 PM Page 22

YARN GROUP BY ZOPPETTI, CHAIR See Yo u in Sin City

old days and even colder nights have us relationships in fresh new ways; shop for the able array of professional development courses bundled up in fuzzy woolens and reach- latest trends in a quieter, less overwhelming on offer that are designed to help you take C ing for hot drinks. As the weather turns environment; and sample the hottest must- your business to the next level. Topics range colder, crafters again embrace their needles, have products coming to market for spring. from cash flow to newsletter marketing to hooks and looms. Sweater-weather season can Though a small ballroom of traditional booths . Education begins on Thursday, and be a magical time for the yarn industry, as knit- will be set up, most exhibitors will have their class times do not overlap with show hours, ters, crocheters and weavers race to cover own private suite (or two) on one of four des- so you can take all the classes you want and themselves and their loved ones in handmade ignated floors. Attendees are invited to hop be confident that you won’t miss any official sweaters and accessories. Hopefully your from room to room to network, peruse the show time. You can see all the classes and shops are bustling, your warehouses are busy new items and place orders. descriptions here: www.tnna.org/page/ shipping yarn and your email is buzzing with Think the winter market is just for needle- WM18ClassesTeachers. pattern sales. point? Think again. As I write this article, more After a busy day of classes and suite Believe it or not, it’s time to start planning than 35 yarn-specific companies are signed up hopping, kick back and relax with us every for spring. Soon we will all be talking about to exhibit, and I’m sure more will be added by night at the Sip and Stitch in the atrium, where cotton- and linen-blend yarns, breezy spring the time this magazine is in print. You can find there’s sure to be oodles of yarny fun afoot. and summer color palettes, and carefree beach the full list of exhibitors here: www.tnna.org/ Of course, while you’re in town be sure accessories. There is no better place to plan page/WM18Exhibitors. you leave plenty of time to take in the sights and buy for the next season than at a TNNA In addition to prepping for spring purchases, of the city; Vegas offers a wealth of entertain- trade show. orders and designs, perhaps you’d like to ment. I know a few yarn folks are nervous TNNA’s winter market in Las Vegas will be revitalize your business or learn how to step about this unique venue, but I look forward a new and exciting opportunity for both exhib- up your social media game. If so, then TNNA’s to seeing what this format show can do for itors and retailers. This smaller, more intimate business-class curriculum is just what you’re the yarn industry. I’m ready to embrace the venue will allow you to network and grow your looking for. In Vegas, we will have a respect- fun and the challenge. Are you?

TNNA’s Yarn Group is an industry-encompassing group that promotes the growth of the yarn industry, creates awareness and appreciation of the craft, and encourages partnerships among members of the community. YMNJAN18-LionBrand.indd 23 12/13/17 8:32 AM YMNJAN18-VKU Book.indd 24 12/13/17 10:58 AM YMNJAN18-VKU Book.indd 25 12/13/17 10:58 AM 026_YMJAN18AFCI.FINAL:Layout 1 12/12/17 11:38 PM Page 26

ASSOCIATION FOR CREATIVE INDUSTRIES BYBYMARKHILL,PRESIDENT&CHIEFEXECUTIVEOFFICER, AND KRISTEN FARRELL, MANAGER OF MARKETING & PUBLIC RELATIONS The Power of the Influencer f you’re a veteran of the yarn industry, you’ve ized, bricks-and-mortar stores continued to domi- Bug and other sites and channels that offer witnessed the dramatic shifts in the creative nate the creative retail landscape. New craft and shopping, instruction, entertainment and online I retail landscape. An industry that was once fabric chains entered the marketplace, including consumption of crafts. Brands changed their controlled by independent retailers and print pub- A.C. Moore, Cleveland Fabrics, Hancock Fabrics, focus to millennial marketing as urban creative lishers is now taking its cues from digital-content Michaels and New York Fabrics. stores serving this generation emerged. creators and social media influencers. Creative 1990s: Mass and specialty big box retailers 2015–Present: Today, the consumer’s source consumers are attracted to these personalities— became more competitive by going national for creative inspiration and education is largely bloggers, digital creators, Instagram stars, and offering an assortment of creative products. online, with video consumption growing at a YouTubers and other social media celebrities— Retailers began to merge, including Michaels fast rate. As a result, bloggers, video creators, which is why more and more brands are partner- with Leewards and Jo-Ann’s with Fabric and cable celebrities are now in control and ing with them to drive sales. Today, the power Centers, Cloth World and New York Fabrics. guide consumers to their purchasing decisions. in the creative supply chain lies with these influ- Early 2000s: Print publishers and project books Here at AFCI, we recognize how important encers, and forward-thinking retailers are began moving to digital distribution. Online these influencers are to your business. In 2017, engaging and promoting them. Here’s a brief retailers surfaced, inspiring suppliers and tradi- we introduced a Digital Content Creator mem- history of who came to power when. tional retailers to create their own consumer- bership for these industry professionals. As a 1940s–1960s: Independent retailers were the focused websites. Multi-category independent result, you’ll see a growing presence of influ- go-to source for consumers. Regional and na- retailers declined significantly, replaced in part encers and more opportunities for your business tional distributors (Notions Marketing, Herrs) by highly focused single-category stores offering to connect with them through an AFCI mem- were founded and supported the independents. unique assortments, education and one-on-one bership and at our upcoming and future events, A number of variety store chains, Ben Franklin customer relationships. including Creativation. As for what lies ahead, Crafts and Wal-Mart for two, also started up. 2010–2015: The digital marketplace exploded only time will tell. But we’ll be here to support 1970s –1980s: As new craft categories material- with the popularization of Amazon, Etsy, Creative you and help your business prosper.

The AFCI is the premier trade association for the global creative arts products industries. Our members include the manufacturers, retailers, distributors, designers, educators, digital content providers, professional makers and DIYers and other creative professionals who comprise the $40 billion+ creative- arts industries around the globe. For more information about AFCI, membership or the annual Creativation trade event, visit afci.global. 027_YMJAN18Ravelry.FINAL:Layout 1 12/12/17 11:43 PM Page 27

RAVELRY BY MARY HEATHER BROWNE,VPOF OPERATIONSANDDO-GOODER Yarn Ideas and Other Updates

he Yarn Ideas tab, found at the top of narrow the yarns by fiber type or other attri- www.ravelry.com/ shops, and we have plans Ravelry pattern pages, is a great place butes. When you’re on the Yarn Ideas tab, you’ll to give the shop search filters like the other T to view the yarns that other Ravelers have notice at the top right that we now show the advanced searches. If you want to add your used for their projects. Local yarn store owners yards (or meters, if you have set that as your shop to our LYS directory or get connected to and staff have told us that they make frequent preference in your Ravelry profile) required for it so that you can edit your shop’s information, use of this tab to easily find projects made in the pattern, as listed on the pattern page. If you we have instructions and helpful links for different yarns, particularly when the pattern calls track your yarns in your Ravelry stash, we’ll you at www.ravelry.com/yarnshops. The in- for a yarn that isn’t carried in their shops. Yarn tell you how many of your stashed yarns were formation on your shop’s directory page is Ideas will show all the yarns that Ravelers have used for projects, and you can click on the public, which means that your shop’s directory actually used and entered projects for. Popular “only yarns in my stash” box at the top of the pages will show up in Google searches and patterns will have wider range of yarns to browse tab to view those specific yarns and projects. be viewable without a login. Make sure you than new patterns or ones with fewer projects. In other Ravelry updates: Did you know list your hours, accurate address, and have a On this tab, the yarns are shown in order of that your shop’s Ravelry directory page has an great photo or two of your shop. If you have popularity within Ravelry projects, and you can “add to favorites” button? You and your custo- an active LYS Ravelry ad, we will also display click on the number of projects (underneath mers can add shops to favorites, include them in a “yarns” tab on your shop’s page, listing all each yarn photograph) to see the actual projects Ravelry bundles like “Visited” or “Want to Visit” of the yarns you have in your ad. that were made with the yarn in question. and add comments in the bundle. Ravelry bun- If you have questions or are wondering how Ravelry recently added a search bar at the dles allow you to group anything you can add to something on Ravelry works, you can post at top of the Yarn Ideas tab, which is helpful for your Ravelry favorites, so you could make a any time in the For the Love of Ravelry Forum, or when you want to quickly look at a popular bundle for your shop featuring your shop’s page, check out our Help tab, which is the home base pattern in a few different yarns carried in your new yarns you’d like to highlight, patterns you are for all the Help resources on Ravelry. On the shop. We also have a link to click through to holding classes for and more. To find your shop’s Help tab you’ll also find the link to contact us so an advanced search for the yarn ideas shown, so direct listing, use the yarn shop search, which you can email with any Ravelry questions you that you can use our search filters to further can be found on the “yarns” tab or directly at may have. We always welcome your feedback.

For more information about In-Store Pattern Sales and other Ravelry services for local yarn shops, please visit ravelry.com/yarnshops. 028_YMJAN18KnittingGuild.FINAL:Layout 1 12/15/17 9:01 AM Page 28

THE KNITTING GUILD ASSOCIATION BY LESLIE GONZALEZ, VICE PRESIDENT, CERTIFICATION Behind the Scenes at the New TKGA

hen last we reported, we had just ning. Here, members can access current and chasing a level and 12 new Master Knitters grad- established TKGA as an independ- past Cast On articles, along with other guild- uating in 2017.Our biggest news is the addition W ent, volunteer-run 501(c)(3) non- related information. A three-person team moni- of new certification courses. These courses profit organization. In November, we celebrated tors the site to answer inquiries on all aspects of allow members to learn and become recognized our first anniversary. I’m happy to report that the guild. Behind the scenes, a network of data as experts in a specific professional aspect of the organization has grown by leaps and bounds. programs keeps us current on accounting and knitting. The Knitting Judges program transi- Our educational programs continue to be organizes our enrollment. We continue to have a tioned with TKGA and is still available to mem- very popular. We now offer eight correspon- strong presence on Ravelry, where we’ve hosted bers. In June, we rolled out the first of our new dence courses and 21 mini courses. We are in a number of knit-alongs and given away sought- courses, Certification in Technical Editing. This the planning stages on virtual classes accessible after prizes. course has been extremely popular, enrolling 65 via Skype or FaceTime. We now offer support to our affiliate guilds students as of this writing. To date, three mem- Our first onsite event, Masters Day, which through a guild-exclusive section on our website bers have completed the course and become will be held in conjunction with the Dallas Fort that offers guild-related educational material. Certified Technical Editors, with the others set to Worth Fiber Fest, is scheduled for April 5–8. Each month, K2TOG dedicates an entire section complete the program soon. Master Committee members are to guild news. We have also just released a new certification currently working on presentations for the We continue to support machine knitters, course for knitting instructors. We are currently event. with articles in Cast On and K2TOG that support working on a Professional Knitter Certificate Our educational journal, Cast On, is back this growing sector. We are planning to add that will recognize members for their knitting on a quarterly schedule in its new digital format. patterns that will be machine versions of some abilities. These knitters will be ready to provide Our monthly newsletter, K2TOG, keeps mem- of our popular hand-knit patterns. test knitting for designers and finishing and bers up to date on news and is a great way for The Master Hand Knitting Program has fixing services for other knitters. All of our cer- members to connect. always been the cornerstone of our guild, and it tified professionals are listed on our website Our website, tkga.org, is now up and run- has continued to grow, with 390 people pur- and in our Ravelry group.

The Knitting Guild Association (TKGA) is a registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting knitting. Its official publication is Cast On magazine, published quarterly. 029_YMN0118_CrochetGuild:Layout 1 12/15/17 11:34 AM Page 29

CROCHET GUILD OF AMERICA BY BOBBIE MATELA, PRESIDENT CGOA Under New Management

he Crochet Guild of America has been this wonderful all-crochet event, which featured educational program that focuses on crochet busy: In the past year, we hosted the a vibrant market, full classrooms led by crochet fundamentals. That program will roll out in early T 2017 Chain Link Conference and began experts over three days, a design competition 2018. We are also striving to provide useful working with a new management company, and a busy crochet lounge. The event ended content at www.crochet.org and via social media Celtic Associations. Celtic, located just north with a celebratory banquet and fashion show sites including Ravelry, Facebook and our blog. of Chicago, was chosen by CGOA’s board that honored CGOA’s newest Hall of Fame Ours is a friendly and collaborative membership of directors after a lengthy search and vetting inductee, Carol Alexander. intent on providing and receiving the best process based on their expertise with day- CGOA is currently hard at work planning for crochet has to offer. to-day management and experience helping the 2018 conference, to be held from July 25–28 If you are interested in crochet—at any level groups grow. The Celtic team, led by Deb in Portland, Oregon. The City of Roses informs —I invite you to become part of our commun- Ryan, managed a smooth transition from our theme, and we expect the same high caliber ity. We welcome everyone from beginners to our previous management company and is of instructors and design competition submis- Masters. Become one of more than 2,500 already executing plans developed by our sions, as well as top-of-mind exhibitors from members across the country and internationally. board, including a realignment of volunteer across the country. Of course, CGOA members Dues are just $35 per year or $60 for two committees and an update of the bylaws, are entitled to reduced registration rates and years. We also offer sponsorship opportunities which will streamline processes and allow receive other benefits—early access to the mar- for companies that are interested in supporting our board to work at a higher, more strategic ket and more—so I encourage you to consider our efforts. Your logo will be featured on our level. As well, they are looking for ways to not only attending or exhibiting at the Portland website home page, and you will receive increase membership and helping us plan Chain Link Conference but becoming a member special sponsor benefits. Feel free to contact the 2018 Chain Link Conference. of CGOA (if you haven’t already). CGOA’s office for more information about Speaking of the conference, our 2017 In addition, CGOA is focused on broadening member and sponsor benefits and the Chain show, held last July, was a great success. our offerings beyond professional development Link Conference at [email protected]. When More than 350 attendees came together at and the Masters’ Program to include a new you think of crochet, think CGOA!

The Crochet Guild of America promotes the education, art and heritage of crochet. For more information, visit crochet.org.

Special 2018 Magazine Issue Sweaters Cardigans Accessories This timeless collection, designed exclusively in Rowan yarns, includes 22 casual wardrobe staples for women just right for the weekend and beyond.

To order copies for your store, contact Jamie Johnson Armes at (814) 942-3186 (direct); (877) 860-6164 (toll-free); (814) 942-3252 (fax) or [email protected] 030_YMJAN18SmtOnline.FINAL:Layout 1 12/12/17 11:48 PM Page 30

SMART ONLINE

We’re Live! BYMARYMCGURN Why Facebook Live is a prime opportunity for solopreneurs and small businesses.

acebook Live launched in April 2016, offering move in a way that blocks the best views for the you’ll answer them at the end of or after the live-streaming video capability to Facebook audience. The best way to get over this phobia broadcast. The same goes for not letting the Fusers. When you tap the Live icon, you can is to practice—a lot. Use your personal profile for number of view counts bother you. They’re typi- start broadcasting in real time from your smart- these practice sessions: Set your privacy settings cally low initially, but as you become a frequent phone—soon from your desktop—and write a to “me only” and then tap the live icon on your user, they will go up. description for the broadcast. smartphone, checking that the camera is indeed facing you. Try not to look at yourself; instead, That’s a Wrap! Places, Everyone focus your gaze at the camera. Once you’re When ending your broadcast, think about sum- Why, as a business, should you embrace Face- feeling more self-assured, broadcast live to your marizing your content, giving a call to action, an- book Live? Three reasons, the first being friends. A fun way to continue practicing is to nouncing your next broadcast and encouraging audience. With 2.01 billion active users, Face- mount a live-broadcasting challenge for a certain viewers to keep interacting with Likes, Shares book dominates the social media landscape. It’s number of days among willing friends. The broad- and further comments. a mind-blowing number that unfortunately gives casts should be short and can focus on anything Finally, as for length for a live broadcast, Face- you no encouragement when you look at your that’s happening in the moment. Your comfort book recommends a minimum of 10 minutes own page’s organic reach among fans. But when level will grow, and then you’ll be ready to tape (you can be live for up to four hours). This gives you go live, Facebook bends over backward to live for your business. Facebook time to gather viewers by letting your bump your broadcast up in fans’ newsfeeds. Before you go live, check your Internet speed fans know you’re live and for viewer interactions The site will also notify your fans of your broad- (use speedtest.net) for upload. Live broadcasting to grow. To find your ideal time, experiment with cast, if the fans have opted for notification. If needs a minimum of 4 mbps up, with a recom- different lengths and check your page’s Insights. you make it a practice to regularly broadcast mendation of 10 mbps up. If you have a too-weak According to Facebook, one in five videos on great content, you may find yourself on Face- signal, the “Go Live” button will be grayed out. its site is a live broadcast. Daily watch time has book’s new mobile TV viewing tab, Watch. If you care how the live broadcast looks on a increased four times since its 2016 launch. Isn’t Reason two is live streaming’s content. desktop, hold your smartphone in a horizontal/ it worth exposing yourself to reach and engage It is intimate, authentic and visual, all of which landscape position. No matter how you orient more fans to get a jump on the competition? creates the content that connects. Add the your smartphone, it’s always preferable to use a “in the moment” of live streaming, and you’ve tripod, unless you plan to move around during given Facebook users the best content a busi- your broadcast. If so, consider fitting your smart- Smartphone Gear ness can provide. Types of live content to try: phone onto a stabilizer. Be aware that viewers behind-the-scenes reporting, how-to tutorials, will excuse shaky video, but not bad audio. Be RODE smartLav. A professional-grade, the latest news and interviews with staff or visit- sure you’re close to the smartphone’s micro- wearable microphone connected to a ing designers or instructors. When conducting phone when you’re speaking or, to be absolutely smartphone or tablet headset jack that an interview, you can choose to broadcast it sure of your audio’s quality, use a wearable records via the RODE Rec app for iOS, with a split screen, so your guest can actually microphone. If you’re on Wi-Fi and want to stop or any other audio app. be located anywhere in the world. Facebook is unwanted calls, switch on the airplane mode building this offering into Live, but you may be and then enable Wi-Fi. SMOVE Stabilizer. Holds your smart- better served for now by using a third-party app Don’t neglect to add a short attention- phone of any size steady as you move. like BeLive (free and from $12/month). grabbing description of the live broadcast, which Great for panoramas and face follows. Reason three is the many opportunities you should help viewers understand what they’re Portable and doubles as a charger. have to repurpose your live content, especially about to watch. It’s also a good idea, before you if it’s evergreen, a term used to describe content hit “Go Live,” to have a simple script in mind GorillaPod Grip Tight PRO Video. that stays relevant in perpetuity. Download the so your message is clear. A few simple sugges- Flexible tripod paired with a locking no-longer-live video and post it to your website, tions on what you can/should include in your mount allowing for fluid pan and tilt your blog, to other social media channels or use script when you begin: saying hi to your viewers, motions. it as a Facebook video ad. using first names; asking viewers if they can hear you; briefly telling viewers what you’re going Auxiwa Selfie Light Ring. Clip-on light Action! to talk about; introducing yourself and calling out with three settings that gets brighter Once you’ve decided to embark on live video, to viewers that they can tap the Follow button when you click the power button. you need to get set up. The first, and probably and opt in to get notifications the next time you the biggest, hurdle to get over is fear. It is not go live. Facebook does give you the ability to Mary McGurn of McGurn Media creates, manages uncommon for those unaccustomed to talking schedule live broadcasts. and strategizes social media accounts for small businesses to a recording camera to grow shy and awkward, When you’re into your content, don’t get and nonprofits and, as a photographer/videographer, trip over or forget their words or inadvertently distracted by comments; tell your viewers that creates visual stories for digital platforms.

30 031_YMJAN18AD:Layout 1 12/13/17 12:06 AM Page 31

Let show you how to create more than 35 cuddly 3D critters from a simple knitted square.

NICKY EPSTEIN

KnitCreate aa CuddlySquare Creature

FROM FLAT TO FABULOUS ‹ A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

ADVERTISE GET YOUR MESSAGE HEARD! The Voice of the Yarn Industry Lori Horak (212) 937-2554 Karima Amir (212) 225-9011 032_YMJAN18SmtLegal.FINAL:Layout 1 12/13/17 12:12 AM Page 32

SMART LEGAL Before You Go

Winding down your business without leaving loose ends. BYCAROLJ.SULCOSKI

hatever the impetus—impending re- concepts. An industry consultant or professional cated in a desirable location or you pay below- tirement, new career goals, changing business appraiser can help translate these markers market rent, your landlord may be all too happy family dynamics, burnout—nearly of value into a range of concrete dollar figures. One to negotiate a painless early lease termination. Wevery small business owner will eventually face benefit of advance planning: You’ll have time to What pending product orders have you placed? Can the difficult process of closing his or her doors. shore up any weak areas to maximize or enhance they be cancelled? If you paid in advance, can you While it may be tempting to rush through this the face value of the business. get a refund? Will vendors give you full credit for bittersweet process, you can’t simply hold a sale, returning unused product in its original packaging? lock your doors and walk away. To avoid legal Assess Your Balance Sheet Do you have a bank loan or business credit problems and to preserve your personal and busi- If you don’t have the luxury of long-term planning, card? Typically, dissolving the business gives the ness reputation, you’ll need to wind down your you’ll have to approach valuation in a more direct lender the right to immediately demand payment business in an orderly way. way. List each of your business’s current assets, of the unpaid principal of the loan or the balance then determine whether any of them can be con- owed on the credit card. Read all the documen- Exit Strategies verted into cash—and if so, for how much. Don’t tation carefully so you understand what is due Take the time to plan your path forward. Start by forget to consider the following: when, and have the chance to coordinate any auto- setting a proposed date of closure. This date • Your remaining inventory. How quickly can you matic deductions that a bank may impose on your may be quite soon, because of a sudden illness sell it? Can it be sold at full price or will you need business or personal accounts. or an offer to purchase; if you’re planning ahead, to deeply discount it? Will you get a more advan- Many states have very strict wage payment the date may be years in the future. Working back tageous price from a liquidator? laws that require employers to promptly pay em- from the date, list each thing that must happen • Store fixtures and furniture. Check out websites ployees for work that has already been completed. between then and now. Among the issues to con- like eBay and Craigslist to gain a sense for what a Be sure you comply to avoid steep penalties. sider: Will you be selling the business, inventory prospective buyer might pay. and/or brand? What do you need from a financial • Leased assets. Compare the termination fee for The Taxman Cometh standpoint to be able to secure your future? Do any a point-of-sale system or a copier with the purchase After making your final payroll, you’ll need to fol- external constraints hamper your ability to close option. It may make sense to find a buyer for the low the usual procedure for filing state and federal on time, such as a lease term? Having a concrete used equipment. employment tax forms and making any required timeline, even if it’s tentative, will help you focus • Accounts receivable. Are they collectible? Should deposits. You’ll also need to file your last state on the essential decisions you have to make, and you offer discounts to get paid more quickly? sales and/or municipal tax forms, settling up for the may clarify whether your proposed plans are doable. • Intellectual property. Do you own the rights to amount of taxes you collected up to the date of closing, and closing out your account(s). Federal tax filing requirements differ depending on how your Consider Your Customers business is organized—sole proprietorship, part- An abrupt closing can create bad publicity in a small industry, so think about when to nership or LLC, or corporation. Check the IRS web- tell the world you’re closing shop. Remember that loyal customers are the best source of site or consult a qualified tax advisor to make sure purchasers for your remaining inventory. If your customers have pending product or- you comply with all required filings, which may ders, have paid for future classes, or have gift card balances outstanding, you’ll need to include filings for unemployment taxes or 1099s create a policy for issuing refunds (unless you can complete orders, conduct classes or for independent contractors. honor the gift cards before the store closes). Remember that local business communities Each state has its own procedures and filings are a small world—a reputation for mistreating customers can harm you in the future necessary to dissolve a business entity formed in if you decide someday to launch a new venture. that state. Officially dissolving the business entity ends your legal obligations to pay annual fees and franchise taxes and to file reports. Consult your state’s website or your attorney to determine ex- Face Value patterns or other proprietary material that you can actly what needs to be filed and when. You’ve maintained careful financial records that are license or sell? Don’t forget to cancel your local business li- up to date, right? Now it’s time to take a realistic Next, you’ll need to determine your outstanding censes, close your company bank accounts, and look at what you have from the standpoint of a debts and obligations. In addition to the obvious— terminate any utilities and other monthly, quarterly prospective buyer. Is the business profitable? By any outstanding invoices you’re obligated to pay— or annual services (like cleaning, HVAC mainten- how much? What are its tangible assets? What don’t forget to consider the following: Do you own ance or exterminators). You don’t want the busi- about intangible assets, like goodwill, brand recog- the business premises? If not, what are the terms of ness hit with an unexpected bill when you should nition and social media presence? Consider the your lease regarding early termination? Make sure be off enjoying your next challenge. depth and strength of your customer base, options you compare the cost of an early lease termination for growth and larger market trends. Admittedly, it with the cost of subletting the space to another Carol J. Sulcoski, a Philadelphia-based attorney, is can be difficult to assign monetary value to these tenant. And don’t forget that if your business is lo- also a knitting author, teacher, dyer and designer.

32 DISCOVER A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION OF TEXTURE

The perfect new technique for all yarn weights, all projects and every knitter who loves texture. ON SALE NOW

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035_YMN1017_AD_DTK.indd 33 12/18/17 2:39 PM 034_YMJAN18SmtMoney.FINAL:Layout 1 12/13/17 12:39 AM Page 34

SMART MONEY The Price to Pay

Margin, profit and getting paid for the benefits your store offers. BYBROOKEORTEL

s the price right? It’s a question that all yarn compare yourself to the large online retailers or to seasonal trends in customer demand and shop owners must grapple with. While many other stores in your area. Think about what prod- adjusts her stock accordingly. For example, she items come with a suggested retail price, is ucts are best for your customers, which services adds more economically priced yarns during the it prudent to always conform to the manufac- you can provide them with. And don’t be afraid summer months. Yarn shop owners should pay Iturer’s recommendation? And what about the to price things higher to get that better margin.” attention to such trends and factor them into their products that don’t come with an MSRP? Care- Like Rosenfeld and Risom, Cynthia Cushing of annual budgets. For Schaefer, the key to smart ful pricing is essential to building a sustainable Lakeside Yarn in Excelsior, Minnesota, recognizes pricing is always being aware of “where you are business, especially as online competition that MSRP can be an impractical target for shop in relation to your budget.” threatens bricks-and-mortar stores that can ill owners: “When you offer more services, MSRP is Her pricing model also doesn’t include store- afford to match Internet prices. often not a realistic pricing mechanism.” Further- wide sales; in her opinion, conditioning customers more, higher prices are tied to customer service to adopt a “sale mentality” is counterproductive. Think Big Picture and the value of in-store guidance from experi- If you know your target audience and set your Sven Risom of North Light Fibers says that the enced knitters. She encourages store owners to prices accordingly, you shouldn’t have to mark first step in determining a reasonable price for “say out loud what our value is and to get peo- things down. It’s difficult when online competition a particular product is to understand your target ple to value what they pay for,” since there’s a ten- undercuts your prices, but by creating a welcoming audience. While most stores find it prudent to dency to “undervalue what we do, which is a poor environment and offering value-added services offer yarns and products in a range of price points, narrative.” Although Cushing has developed her such as advice from experienced staff members, targeting a particular group of customers is own formula for pricing based on the projected successful stores can cultivate a loyal following. essential to striking the right balance. Risom’s pricing theory depends on several key consider- ations: a minimum profitability threshold per A Quick Guide to Smart Pricing item, the services a store provides at the time of First of all, know your target: think about what your customers value and how much sale and as follow-up, and the stories behind the they’re willing to pay for merchandise and services. While you should focus primarily on products, particularly those that are handcrafted. one specific group, you should also consider the preferences of more economical shoppers. By “minimum profitability threshold,” he is Determine the benefits valued by different groups of customers—premium, value and referring to a calculated amount you must make economy—within your target and factor this into your pricing decisions. on every item to cover costs, everything from Second, know your costs per skein, a simple calculation of your store’s annual dollar utilities to payroll. “If you sell a skein below this costs divided by the number of skeins sold per year. For example, if you make $1,000 in a minimum, you’re losing money, which may be year and sell 2,000 skeins, the profit threshold is $0.50 per skein, so you shouldn’t sell a OK if you’re using it as a loss leader, but not for skein for less than this amount unless it falls into the loss leader category. low-end economy items.” While many store Third, consider the MSRP and do some research on what other shops are charging per owners tend to think in terms of margins, Risom item—but don’t price something low simply because another shop does. Your pricing deci- strongly suggests thinking beyond percentages sions must be based on your shop’s unique situation. Finally, be proud of what you offer. to calculating dollar profit. If keystone doesn’t As Cynthia Cushing puts it, yarn shop owners need to remind customers of “the unspoken cover the minimum profitability threshold, the value of what we do.” price should be raised.

Reconsider Keystones value of different items, she isn’t afraid to deviate Most serious knitters realize that bricks-and- While a product’s MSRP provides a useful refer- on a case-by-case basis. mortar stores staffed with experienced knitters ence point, think about your own costs and cus- have value that simply can’t be matched. Ducking tomer base rather than adopting arbitrary pricing. Get a Feel for It into a shop to chat with a fellow knitter while For Craig Rosenfeld, owner of the Philadelphia Beth Schaefer of Westport Yarns in Westport, browsing the luxury yarn selection, for instance, yarn shop Loop, margins are the most important Connecticut, describes pricing as “an art form, not provides a much more rewarding experience pricing consideration. He says, “Some store a science. It depends on the yarn, how difficult than shopping online. Says Craig Rosenfeld, owners rely too much on keystoning. If you’re it is to get and other considerations.” For her, “Your customers will always be able to find what going to maintain profitability, you’ll need a more the key to successful pricing is creating a budget, they’re looking for cheaper; someone is always flexible approach. By that I mean never going knowing what her margin will be and sticking having a sale. But if they want the services we below keystone, only above.” He also recom- to it. “Don’t just buy yarn because you think it’s offer, if supporting a local business is important mends making sure that “initial markup is as beautiful,” she admonishes. Instead, she sug- to them, they will shop with us.” high as possible, because inevitably you’ll have gests, determine how much you expect to sell markdowns, which erode margins quickly.” of a particular yarn and then decide on a reason- Brooke Ortel grew up working in her family’s retail Rosenfeld advises shop owners “to not able price. Schaefer also pays close attention business on Block Island, Rhode Island.

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RETAIL PROFILE BY DARYL BROWER Stash Corvallis, Oregon

Oregon with almost 50 parks and a population terms of trying new techniques, fibers and col- of just over 55,000, is home to an Oregon ors,”Ruyts says. “That’s so important to me. State University campus and is known for its And we’ve partnered with other merchants in dynamic downtown neighborhoods. “We’re town on various events. We just held a weaving definitely an artsy town. It’s a university town, class at Tried and True, a coffee shop. We’re but we also have lots of small farms and a re- trying to do more things like that, combining two “Knitting was a way for me to ally vibrant farm-to-table scene, with a big farm- communities in one space.” control something in my life when ers’ market downtown. And then, just in our When the shop first opened, Ruyts led downtown area alone, we have our shop, a classes and seminars herself, but now she I didn’t feel as though I had much quilt shop, two bead shops and a mostly leaves it to her team members, called control,” says Sonia Ruyts, owner store, plus a bunch of art galleries, music shops Stash Enhancers, and guest designers. (Classes and three bookstores,”Ruyts says. “The town are typically six to eight people in size.) She of Stash, a yarn store and commu- has [worked hard to] preserve and protect the also interacts with customers through social nity hub in Corvallis, Oregon. retail and restaurant business district.” media. The shop has a presence on Facebook, Located in a historic building, the airy, open- Ravelry, Pinterest and , but “Instagram Ruyts took up knitting in the mid-2000s, during concept shop has 20-foot ceilings and a large is probably the best place to follow along with a period of struggle in her personal life. “We street-facing window that lets in natural light. us in real time. We give shop tours and unbox had moved to a new state and I didn’t know Visitors rest or work on a project in a seating new merchandise and just do silly stuff,”Ruyts anybody. At the same time, I was experiencing area located just inside the front door. There’s says. And for the past three years, she has infertility challenges as I tried to get pregnant,” also a classroom space in the back where also hosted a podcast. she recalls. “I was feeling really isolated, and so classes are regularly held. Also at the back is a “After I turned my hobby into a business I wanted to find a way to meet people. I got on play area for kids. “I have two little ones of my and my full-time job, I needed a new creative chal- Meetup.com and found a stitch-and bitch group own, so I know how nice it is when the kids are lenge,”she explains. “I love listening to podcasts in New Haven, Connecticut. It was the start of engaged and entertained, giving you extra time when I’m knitting or cleaning or cooking or walk- a whole new era—and life—for me.” to look around uninterrupted. We’re definitely ing, and I started thinking about the conversations In 2010, Ruyts and her wife moved to family-friendly here. I encourage people to bring I was having with knitters and makers personally Oregon, where Ruyts continued to develop her their children with them,”Ruyts says. and people that I would love to talk to and ask knitting skills and knowledge. “I got very inter- The atmosphere at Stash is a very social questions of.”She’s now in her third year, or sea- ested in natural fibers and hand-dyed yarns. In one, something Ruyts has fostered from day son, ofThe Stash Podcast. Each season is 10 our community in Corvallis, there was [demand] one. “From the start we hosted knit and cro- episodes and includes conversations with sewing for that,”she says. “But I didn’t see those chet nights, and then we had open houses, and knitwear designers, artists and authors. kinds of yarns at the local shops, and so I started pop-up shops and trunk shows, and we started “It’s fun to find what people have in com- daydreaming about what I would stock if I had bringing in guest designers pretty quickly,” mon across different creative fields, and we’re my own store.”A year later, she opened Stash. she says. Many of these events also con- talking about things like staying inspired, mone- Leafy Corvallis, a city in central western tribute to customers’ education, skill develop- tizing a creative hobby, making time for making ment and community involvement. Stash runs and how it has value in our lives, and even how classes regularly throughout the school year; making is a form of self-care right now,”Ruyts topics include knitting for babies, intro to says. “Those are good conversations to have.” needle felting, colorwork and socks. A class called Sweater Lab consistently sells out: “People are always wanting to Stash QUICK 110 SW 3rd Street, Corvallis, OR 97333; GLANCE solve the mystery of a well-fitting (541) 753-YARN; www.stashlocal.com sweater,”Ruyts explains. Years in business: “I’ve always wanted people to know 6 Staff: 5 part-time, 1 full time that they can build their skills here; that Square footage: Approx 1,500 square feet they can feel comfortable to take risks, Hours:Tuesday–Saturday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; get outside of their comfort zone in Sunday, 12 p.m.–4 p.m. YMNJAN18-DestinationsAD.indd 37 12/15/17 11:25 AM 038_YMJAN18CompanyProfile.FINAL:Layout 1 12/13/17 1:08 AM Page 38

COMPANY PROFILE BY MARYAM SIDDIQI Lion Brand Yarn Co.

in our design department.” He adds: “Those of us who own and operate the company feel that giving is very important to the success of our company.” Lion Brand will celebrate its 140th anniversary in 2018, though Blumenthal says they’ll save the big cel- ebrations for the 150th. In the meantime, Lion Brand works on figuring out the best ways to engage dis- tracted consumers. “People are locked into their phones and tablets, and I think that’s hindering a lot of crafting in general. It’s a constant challenge to find ways to get them away from their devices,” he says. Adding to the challenges companies are facing, he notes: “Historically, when unemployment is low and the economy is somewhat good, as it is currently, we notice a downturn in the use of craft yarns.” On the other hand, Blumenthal is seeing an in- “I just celebrated my 49th year at Lion Brand. I don’t even remember if we had creased interest in natural fibers and hand-dyed yarns. a mission statement at that time, but basically the goal was to stay profitable and To reach those discerning knitters and crocheters, keep growing,” says David Blumenthal, the company’s president and CEO. the company offers its LB Collection: cashmere, cotton, bamboo and merino yarns that the company Lion Brand has a firm mission statement now— the role passion plays as a driver of Lion Brand Yarn’s sells directly to consumers. The company’s sales “Creating a more colorful, connected and giving continued growth. “[The fact that we’re family- and distribution teams have also expanded the mar- world”—and during Blumenthal’s tenure, the com- owned] gives us a big advantage over our competi- kets they serve. “We’ve gone international,” says pany has indeed grown: are tors, because the big-box stores we compete against Blumenthal. “Last year, we shipped yarn to more among the industry’s most ubiquitous throughout are owned, for the most part, by venture capital firms. than 27 countries. We’ve also grown our online the U.S. and, increasingly, around the world. Much They have different priorities and set different goals,” business to serve those two million people who get of the company’s success can be attributed to he explains. “We look at things for the long term.” our weekly newsletter. To stay alive in any market, the strong relationships it nurtures with suppliers, Community involvement and social responsibility whether it’s hand knitting or widgets, you have distributors and end users. are guiding principles for the Blumenthal family. to change and adapt to the current trends, and so “We try and stay connected with all of our cus- They administer the Lion Brand Foundation, worked far we’ve been able to do that.” tomers, wherever they shop,” says Blumenthal. through the Jewish Communal Fund, and give The company has placed a priority on digital outreach, to numerous charities, including Enactus, which is Address: 135 Kero Road, Carlstadt, specifically social media, led by Blumenthal’s daugh- “committed to using the power of entrepreneurial New Jersey 07072 ter Shira, the company’s brand ambassador. “We action to transform lives,” according to its website. Employees: 80 have 600,000 Facebook fans, we’re on Pinterest and Lion Brand also donates to disaster-relief efforts and Fun fact: Lion Brand Yarn has been Instagram, and we have a slew of bloggers around is generous with yarn donations. “Our offices are working with game-show hostess the country who promote Lion Brand to their readers. filled with letters from churches, synagogues, senior Vanna White for more than 20 years. And our e-newsletter goes out every week to nearly centers and other organizations asking for donations David Blumenthal’s cousin Jack was two million people,” says Blumenthal. of yarns for their projects,” says Blumenthal. watching an episode of “The Tonight The company is also active in providing knitting There’s also direct interaction through the com- Show with Johnny Carson” in which education and skill development at home and abroad. pany’s Lion Brand Yarn Studio in Manhattan (shown White was a guest. She mentioned to above). The shop is famous for its window displays, “We fund a scholarship at the Fashion Institute of guest host Joan Rivers that she was a which are fitted with new installations every few Technology in New York, and I’m on the board of crocheter; in response, the Blumenthals months. “It’s a global destination for yarn crafters,” governors at Shenkar College of Engineering, Design sent a basket of yarn to her office Blumenthal says. “Not a day goes by that we don’t and Art in Israel,” Blumenthal says. “We send over at “Wheel of Fortune.” They received a hear about people from all over the world who’ve our color cards every year, and then knitting craft note back from her saying she’d been made it a point to visit.” students select whatever yarns they need, in any working with the brand’s Jiffy yarn But as the leader of a fifth-generation family- quantity, and we ship the yarns to them. At the end for many years. She now has her own owned company, Blumenthal (a member of the fourth of the academic year they put on a tremendous, un- yarn lines with the company and generation, and one of eight family members currently usual, original exhibit. For the past seven years we’ve works with the Blumenthals on sev- working at the company) doesn’t underestimate also brought over interns who are assigned to work eral charitable fundraising efforts.

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hose planning the annual trek to TNNA’s winter show will find that more than the location has changed. The 2018 winter market will be held in Las Vegas from January 26–28, but insteadT of setting up in booths in a convention hall, as has been the way of the world for dec- ades, exhibitors will showcase what’s new for SHOW spring/summer in 150 hotel rooms at the Em- bassy Suites by Hilton. Save for a few vendors who will have traditional booths set up in a ball- room, attendees will travel from room to room BUSINESS to see what’s on display. It’s a model that the

needlepoint segment has used successfully, but TNNA’s 2018 winter market it has many yarn retailers feeling a little uneasy. “The decision to try the new format was a completely board of directors-driven decision and debuts a new format— has nothing to do with our new management company,” says TNNA president Don Lynch, and sparks some new concerns squelching the rumor that the switch from long- time show-management company Offinger to from retailers. Here’s a look at SmithBucklin was the driving force behind the change. Instead, the impetus was dwindling at- tendance numbers and the sense that the mar- what’s happening, and why. ket wasn’t delivering the way it used to. So in an effort to shake things up—and address financial concerns of those exhibiting—a new approach By Daryl Brower/Illustration by Lisa Henderling is being tested. “Registration trends told us we needed to look at a new idea,” Lynch says.

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“Steadily declining attendance at the winter same big-picture overview as a convention hall hibitors,” Lynch explains. “We’ve heard consis- show meant that we could no longer support the filled with displays, and traffic could go either tently from our exhibiting members that costs convention-center venue in terms of size or cost. way. Rooms could become too crowded with needed to come down.” Lynch notes that this The needlepoint segment has been quite suc- retailers trying to take in what’s new, and some could also be an incentive for smaller companies cessful in running hotel shows, so it was decided suites could be bypassed simply because they’re to begin exhibiting. “We hope that smaller com- that we try this for the entire membership.” out of view. “You may be tempted to skip the panies see this as an opportunity to attend a The membership, however, seems to be split remaining suites,” says Karen Smith (not her TNNA show without incurring expenses tied to on the wisdom of the change. Lynch understands real name), a longtime rep who preferred to re- a traditional convention-center show.” the concerns. “It’s definitely a different environ- main anonymous. “With the show-floor format Heather Zoppetti, Yarn Group president and ment,” he says. The biggest adjustment? “The you can see what’s ahead, and that’s more owner of Stitch Sprouts, also sees the change as suites are more like individual boutiques, rather likely to inspire you to keep going.” a boon for smaller companies. “Large companies than part of an open market. Exhibitors and shop A few traditional Friday evening events won’t have been pulling out of the winter show and owners who haven’t done a suite show will en- be happening this time around, a decision Lynch even the summer show, which is both unfortu-

counter a bit of a learning curve, but their actual says is the result of the change in venue. “We nate and fortunate for several reasons,” she business experience shouldn’t be any different decided the fashion show, Sample IT! and the says. “For retailers, part of the draw of the show than it would be at a traditional convention center.” Needlepoint Showcase just wouldn’t work is to see all the new product of the upcoming Designer Deborah Jarchow is cautiously well with the new format,” he explains. But that season. Big companies are part of that draw, and optimistic about the change. “I’m hoping the doesn’t mean there won’t be anything to do when they don’t show, many retailers choose not suite format will offer opportunities to sit once the floor closes. “There will be a ‘preview’ to attend.” But, she says, there’s also an upside with exhibitors and have conversations about night, where exhibitors can opt into an evening to the dwindling number of exhibitors. “Without their products,” she says. “There’s always so showcase of their suites,” Lynch continues. “And the usual big players, many indie and young com- much going on on a convention show floor as the show hours wind down, we’ll be hosting panies have been able to become more visible,” that this may provide a quieter way to meet.” ‘Stitch and Sip’ in the atrium for all attendees.” she points out. “Retailers have turned to them to Lynch says that’s a good takeaway. “My com- fill the holes left by the big companies they’ve pany [Associated Talents] has exhibited at RUNNING THE NUMBERS stopped carrying because they don’t want to pa- similar suite-based shows, and it was more of As in any industry, the bottom line drives what’s tronize companies that don’t show.” a one-on-one, personal experience.” happening. “By going to a smaller venue, with On the buyers’ end, expenses also play a role, There are downsides to the format, of course. the majority of the exhibitors showing in their but there are other factors as well. “Some shops Moving from room to room doesn’t offer the suites, we were able to reduce costs for the ex- have mentioned that it is (continued on page 47)

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To read a story in the news or Lonnie Hanzon—a Denver- Neiman Marcus and the Houston Zoo, says retailers media about retailing is based designer and artist who re- facing extinction have only themselves to blame. designed the city’s iconic toy store The culprit: A lack of imagination. to confront the idea that the The Wizard’s Chest into a 16,000- “Traditional retail is in a free fall for several rea- consumption of goods as we F square-foot castle of fun in 2015— sons,”he wrote in an email. “One size fits none. the current retail environment is the result of retail- There is nothing unique to the stores and malls know it is coming to an end. ers acting like lemmings. Hanzon, who has created that are failing. The merchandise is the same, the Malls that once vibrated with displays and experiences for cities, companies and architecture, fixtures, windows, music, (lack of) cultural institutions including the City of Denver, service, lighting—same, same, same. You can’t hordes of teenagers, moms pushing strollers and senior citi- zens doing laps have become eerie ghost towns. Retail stalwarts including Sears, Macy’s and J.C. Penney are shuttering stores. Formerly robust brands like Payless and Radio Shack are in bankruptcy. And even trendy companies like Bebe are closing stores almost in spite of robust online and bricks- and-mortar footprints. Seriously, what’s up? Is it Amazon? E-commerce? A cultural refutation of consumerism? Social media? A reallocating of discretionary funds from clothing and accessories to entertainment, dining, travel and technology? Boredom? Yes.

THE

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tell one store from another, one mall from another, one city from an- old models, (re)emerge—exciting product, great customer service, other. There is no discernible selection of quality (good, better, best).” fun experiences, beautiful merchandising, a welcoming environment,” The homogeneity of department stores and power centers is partly referring to storied retail palaces, like Marshall Field in Chicago and to blame, but so is e-commerce, which is diverting revenue to online Macy’s in New York City, that were built long ago. “The great depart- stores. How easy is it to plug in an order for skincare, shoes or vintage ment stores rose in the early 1900s as cultural hubs, city centers, buttons and have it show up a day or two later on our doorsteps? stunning landmarks—living, breathing institutions where change was “Shopping is no longer a pastime,”Hanzon observes. “No one has time the constant.” to pass. Window-shopping is a chore in a world in which we are being An inveterate showman, Steven Berg, a.k.a. StevenBe, grew up in bombarded with too much information.” his mother’s yarn shop back when brands like Botany, Spinnerin and But people still need—and want—stuff, and anyone who has tapped Unger ruled the shelves. Following a career in fashion, Berg returned to her digital wallet recently to purchase a sweater’s worth of yarn under- his roots, opening first the Yarn Garage and then StevenBe in Minne- stands that reports of retail’s death have been greatly exaggerated. apolis. He has since consolidated both stores in the 7,000-square-foot Department stores are struggling, but Blue Apron, the subscription former firehouse that houses StevenBe. meal service, saw sales surge 133 percent in 2016, and The shop itself has become a destination not just for Wayfair, the online home décor and furniture company, Minnesotans but for tourists from around the world, experienced 54 percent revenue growth. Retail isn’t who are drawn to this yarn-packed space that never so much dying as changing. But what is it chang- When you met an animal print it didn’t like. Tea and coffee ing into? are always on offer, iPads are scattered around In August, the National Retail Federation’s consider your the store, and an Apple desktop workstation STORE magazine published a story listing makes for easy Ravelry searches. And though its Hot 100 Retailers, with Blue Apron own buying behavior, the local fire marshal wouldn’t allow Berg and Wayfair topping the list. Retailers who to keep the building’s fire pole, Berg has in- are “winning” in this challenging environ- it all starts to stalled a cardboard one in honor of the ment are finding ways to distinguish shop’s firehouse beginnings. themselves and engage customers across make sense. Really, He estimates that 70 percent of his bus- all their channels. It’s interesting to note iness comes from tourists, who seem partic- that fewer than 10 retailers on the list are how many of us are ularly drawn to the over-the-top environment purely e-commerce players. he’s created. “It’s all about the experience,” When you consider your own buying be- purchasing yarn Berg explains. “It’s about collecting the sought- havior, it all starts to make sense. Really, how from Amazon? after and making it different than what you would many of us are purchasing yarn from Amazon? experience elsewhere.” Ordering the widget we need for the swamp cooler In addition to his elaborate bricks-and-mortar store, online? Getting our fresh green juice from Thrive.com? The Berg has created a multichannel enterprise: There’s the fact of the matter is this: According to the U.S. Census Bureau, esti- online shop, proprietary patterns—including the famous Ponchini— mated e-commerce sales as a percentage of total retail sales for first two books and vending at knitting events (Stitches, Vogue Knitting LIVE). quarter 2017 was only 8.5, though that percentage is increasing swiftly. He’s even transformed himself into a kind of channel—a charismatic These days, Americans tend to be fairly agnostic in their shopping knitting personality who teaches internationally. “You have to habits, happy enough to either “add to cart” or push one, depending stay ahead of the game,”he says. on time and inclination. Retailers that are succeeding are doing so not Another big personality, Gina Bonomo, who owns Wool Workshop by being safe and beige, but by offering multichannel convenience— in Roanoke, Virginia, is leveraging her personal and store brand to opportunities to buy in person and online—and giving us reasons to get the word out about her store. Because she can’t always count on walk away from our plastic screens and into their stores. local foot traffic to sustain her business, she’s invested heavily in multi- David Sax, author of The Revenge of Analog: RealThings and channel revenue streams so she can reach knitters the world over. Why They Matter, which details the recent rise of vinyl records, inde- In addition to launching a splashy online store, she sells yarn right off pendent bookstores and board-game cafés, agrees. People want more Instagram and recently debuted a spicy video podcast, The Workshop from life than what they can exact from online transactions, he says; Girls—parental discretion advised. they want tangible experiences. “I’m in a small blue-collar city” whose residents tend to be careful “What is it that draws people?” he ponders about knitting. “Is it with their pennies, Bonomo says. “But if you look beyond, to the whole the stress relief? Stitch-and-bitch groups? It’s like the board-game cafés. world, you’ll find people who are addicted to buying more and getting You don’t need to go to a café to play a board game. The board game the newest thing. There are always going to be people who can’t stop.” is an excuse for socialization. That’s a big attraction of knitting as well.” Inspired by a retailer friend who started selling her stores’ accessories Lonnie Hanzon sees a move toward more experiential, entertainment- and jewelry from Facebook using software by a company called focused retail: “Over the next five years, we will see the old models of Soldsie, a year and a half ago Bonomo decided to market to her 12,000 retail continue to die and start to see the new models, which are really @skeincocaine followers on Instagram. Soldsie works by allowing

How are you preparing for the future of retail?

By Leslie Petrovski ALYPSE 45 044-046_YMJAN18Retailpocalypse.FINAL:Layout 1 12/13/17 10:33 AM Page 46

retailers to post photos of merchandise, which customers can purchase ing. “I’ve doubled my sales by doing it,”she explains, “and it’s helped my seamlessly by typing “sold” and the quantity desired. Soldsie auto- cash flow and diversified my way of selling things, but my margins have matically emails a PayPal invoice to the customer, who is given a certain gone down.” amount of time in which to pay. Once the invoice is paid, the retailer is In recent weeks, too, Bonomo has noticed a leveling of sales, notified and the order can be filled. “Why wouldn’t I do that with yarn?” so she has jumped on the next new thing to keep merchandise moving she asks. —a video podcast on YouTube. Twelve episodes in at this writing, The But Bonomo didn’t want to flood her feed with stuff for sale. Hoping Workshop Girls stars Bonomo and her manager Catherine Long, who to maintain some entertainment value in her posts, she looked to knit, show off works in progress, and chat unabashedly about knitting, Soldsie for guidance. Because the company’s analytics show that Insta- life and new products coming into the store. Underneath the video, gram is most active on Thursdays at 8 P.M. Eastern time, Bonomo limits Bonomo posts links to their Instagram accounts plus links to the store’s her sales on the site to two times per week. Now every Thursday and website and Ravelry page. They also promote the YouTube posts on Friday, Bonomo whips through her store, grabs items that appeal to her all social media channels. Every time a new episode launches, Bonomo in the moment, photographs them with her phone, and posts them says, the phone starts ringing off the hook. at the appropriate times. Featuring lots of eye-popping hand-dyed yarns, “All yarn shops around the world should sit down and talk about the latest accessories and other tantalizing yarny products, the weekly what’s new to give people a sense of who you are,”Bonomo says @skeincocaine yarn auctions have been a dazzling success, not only of video podcasting. “If you like who we are, you’re more likely to buy doubling sales for the Wool Workshop but also boosting Bonomo’s Insta- from us. People then feel like they aren’t just paying ‘the man’ but gram followers and traffic to her online shop. are part of a community and are helping someone who’s trying to earn Thrilled with the results, Bonomo offers some caveats. Not only a living.” does she have to pay Soldsie for its service (Soldsie takes only so Steven Berg’s goal is for his shop to be an essential part of his cus- many retailers per category), but she also has to pay an employee to tomers’ lives. “You have your family and your job. I want to be the monitor the auctions in case customers have questions and to fulfill third place—that place you go where you don’t have to be with the kids weekly orders, which generates costs for labor, shipping and packag- or the house or the significant other. You come here to escape.” SIX WAYS TO NOT BECOME A ZOMBIE POST-RETAILPOCALYPSE

As the retail environment shakes out, who will of The Workshop Girls, “In Defense of Squatty Steven Berg, who owns the former fire- thrive and who will perish? It may be that small Potties Everywhere,”Gina Bonomo of the house-cum-yarn-shop StevenBe. “And that’s retailers have the edge. Nimble and respon- Wool Workshop posted this click bait: a photo a shame.”Rather than dismissing an acrylic- sive, you can easily adjust to new trends and of herself in a pair of fabulous heels, pants accustomed crocheter, he sees the potential. provide what customers crave: an authentic, down, on the toilet, holding her knitting. “I am “I just want to be inclusive,”he explains. compelling experience. Denver-based artist and trying to find ways to connect with my cus- “This is a teaching opportunity. I can convert designer Lonnie Hanzon, who for 30 years has tomers,”Bonomo says. “If that means sharing them from a pound of Red Heart to hand- worked with name-brand retailers creating more about myself and talking about things I dyed yarn at $30 a skein.” store environments and displays, says small re- probably shouldn’t talk about to get them to • Offer engaging experiences. Beyond Knit- tailers can be the winners. feel more connected to me, well…. ting 101, what can you offer that will lure your “They still can be flexible, program, acti- I don’t filter or edit.” customers away from Netflix and into your vate, change, communicate, teach, celebrate • Leverage social media. Keep your Facebook shop? Trunk shows? Limited-release yarns? and engage,”he explains. “Small retailers can and Ravelry feeds, but also look to social media In-store giveaways? A shop retreat? A fiber- deliver a genuine, live experience. If you look channels—blogging, podcasting, Instagram— related film screening? Book launch event? at the most successful retail operations in the that allow you to use visual storytelling to get • Distinguish your inventory. By all means world, they are usually a single location and your message out. Make sure that your social carry workhorse yarns, but also look to goods offer many experiences in addition to selling media posts reflect your brand personality, too. that will separate you from local and online things. Small retailers have social currency • Make excellent customer service your competitors. Seek out regional indie dyers, that can be used to great effect.” mantra. People pull into your parking lot rather knitwear designers, yarn producers and other Consumers buying yarn and patterns have than shop online for a reason. “I’ve heard of so makers. Consider developing your own prod- changed, but they’re still buying. To encourage many people who aren’t helpful, who don’t greet ucts such as kits, subscription boxes, exclu- them to buy from you, try the following: customers, especially crocheters,”observes sive colors from “it” dyers, logo merchandise, • Pursue new channels. Have you invested in patterns, books, yarn or yarn bowls. a strong e-commerce website? Do you take your The Net Loft, a yarn and gift shop in Cor- show on the road to fiber festivals, craft shows dova, Alaska, sells a number of its own bags or knitting retreats? Stay local but think global. and totes, including a “FisherFolk” waxed • Define your brand. Now more than ever, it’s canvas shoulder bag and a carryall featuring important to brand your shop. Communicate lupine wildflowers. And at StevenBe, Berg who you are as a store: What is your shop’s worked with a local potter to develop a mug personality? What is your personality? Are that says, F*@k off, I’m knitting. “It’s my you naughty or nice? number-one-selling thing ever,”he says. “I’ve • Creatively advertise. To advertise the sold more than 1,000. The artist can’t keep launch of the shop’s most recent episode up with demand.”

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SHOW BUSINESS (continued from page 43) more and more expensive to attend the show Smith admits that her feelings may be figure out the logistics of new city.”But she also because of travel expenses and time off work,” skewed by the area she reps—summer yarns notes that while Columbus has the ease of the says Deborah Jarchow. “Others have said that aren’t big sellers for her Midwestern customers, known to it, it’s not so easy to get to. the classes aren’t enticing, so the trip has less and most will rely on her visits and trunk shows A better one-show solution, she says, would be value.”Karen Smith agrees. “Shows are a big in- for those yarns rather than take on the expense to pick a hub that’s easy to fly in and out, making vestment for a retailer,”she says. “Beyond the of travel and hotel rooms. “It may be different travel easier for all who choose to attend. travel and lodging costs, there’s the time away for shops with a summer tourist base,”she says, Other objections focused on timing. Sales from the shop.”She also notes that when show “but still I can’t help but think that one really numbers at the winter show may not be as locations were vacation-friendly—San Diego, strong show might be better for everyone. It’s strong as those in the summer, but they are still for instance—many retailers justified their atten- more exciting, more interesting and maybe more sales. “For many vendors, the winter show dance by blending business with pleasure. worth it.” carries them for the spring,”says Zoppetti. “And Others, encouraged by a generous free-ticket Heather Zoppetti says the one-show format without those sales, some vendors wouldn’t policy that’s since ended, brought staffers along was considered but set aside for a number of make it.”From that standpoint, a smaller sec- as a kind of thank-you treat. “Now it’s too reasons. “There were several objections,”she ond show makes sense. It also addresses the expensive to do that,”she says. says. “Some were about location: Many people needs of TNNA’s needlepoint members. “Yarn’s Smith thinks that networking, once a big wanted the summer show to stay in Columbus big show is summer, but for needlepoint the reason to go to the show, may seem less nec- forever and ever, amen. But the problem with big show is winter,”Zoppetti points out. “Cut- essary in a world in which a phone screen one show forever in one place is that any show ting the winter show would be a terrible dis- provides instant contact and endless infor- —no matter where it is—typically attracts a service to their segment.” mation. “Retailers are finding other ways to connect—social media being the biggest,” FUTURE PERFORMANCES she says. “Once upon a time you had to go There will no doubt be a few missed to the show to see what was new and HOTEL HOPPING steps on the first run of the new for- what the editorials for the yarns would be. One concern that’s been voiced is the location of mat, but nothing ever runs perfectly on Now all that information is on Instagram, the hotels and the distance those who haven’t se- opening night.There will be edits that Twitter and Facebook. Everyone is trying cured rooms at the host hotel will have to travel. need to be made along the way. Don to work smarter.”Jarchow agrees but Lynch is confident that two shows “I have heard some grumbling that the show argues that face-to-face connections are with two different formats are the way still important: “The show is a wonderful location and lodging hotels are too far apart for to go and may be the key to revamping networking opportunity that should not easy walking,”says designer Deborah Jarchow. interest. “Personally, I think variety be missed. I think of it as an investment TNNA President Don Lynch says attendees is good. If each show is allowed to de- in myself and my business.”She adds, velop its own personality and flavor, “More structured networking events [at shouldn’t worry: “My Google Maps search turned it can keep people engaged,”he says. the show] might boost attendance.” up a one-minute walk to the Red Roof Inn, which “Our current plans are to assess the is being offered as a budget-friendly option.The successes and any failures of this show, ONE AND DONE? make the necessary adjustments and Hyatt Place appears to be a five-minute walk, A number of retailers and exhibitors less move forward.” than thrilled with the suite format have which is much quicker than the walk I’ve had from Advice for any critic is to wait for the broached the idea of dropping to just one the Hyatt in Columbus.” final curtain before writing the review. show a year. “If [TNNA] is losing money “The changes will be interesting to by having two convention shows per see,”says Jarchow. “I’m reserving year, then yes, one show would be a good certain radius of retailer attendees. When the judgment on whether it will improve the experi- thing,”posits Jarchow, pointing out that show stays in one city, the same attendees ence or not. I have not attended a trade show retailers generally attend only one show, based come again and again, but retailers from other in this format before, so I have no basis for com- on their location and/or their shop’s busy time regions never attend.” parison, but I am eager to see how it works.” of year. The solution to that issue is an obvious one: She’s not alone.The show is well ahead of 2017 Karen Smith, who’s been repping yarns for 16 rotate the show’s location from year to year, giv- numbers in vendor and attendee registrants, and years, is one of those who see potential in such a ing different regions a chance to attend a market vendor rooms and booths are close to full. move—and not just for financial savings. “It’s the that’s closer to home. But the popularity of drop- Rooms for attendees were sold out at the host way the European market does it,”she says. ping to one show a year seems to go hand in hotel as this issue went to press. “I’m confident “And it works well—those exhibiting sell more hand with a permanent location. “When the idea that attendee numbers will be strong,”says yarn in a smaller space. When the focus is on of moving from place to place came up, people Zoppetti. “I hope that yarn retailers understand one show, you have more resources to put to- who were pro one show started rethinking their that this is not just a needlepoint show and really gether an exhibit. Rather than splitting resources stance,”says Zoppetti. Many retailers, it seems, take a good look at the exhibitor list to see all between two so-so shows, you can put all the like the idea of one show, but only if the location the great yarn vendors attending.” money toward one really good one.“A really is a constant. Jarchow’s advice is just to take it all in and good show, Smith notes, brings the kind of ex- Karen Smith is sympathetic to that view, reflect and revise later. “Anything new takes citement that gets retailers buying. “If you know understanding that comfort with a location can some getting used to for regular attendees,” it’s only coming around once a year, things can be a key factor in the decision to attend. “Peo- she says. “The new location, combined with the feel fresher,”she says. “There’s more energy ple like knowing where they’re going to stay, new format, may be causing some con- on the show floor—that’s something that’s been how the cabs operate, where to eat and what’s sternation. Best to keep an open mind to see lacking at market over the past few years.” around,”she says. “It can be intimidating to have how it all works out.”

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THE MASTERS VICKIE HOWELL

reers, but there have really been only two. My first intangible common thread among creative types. was in the entertainment industry. I worked on a It’s a beautiful puzzle I’m trying to figure out. talk show, at production companies and at one of the “big three” talent agencies. I was on track to YMN: The Knit Show was funded by Kick- be a TV producer. When I was in my mid-twenties, starter. Why choose that route and not a more though, I was laid off follow- traditional source of funding? ing a merger. I was also VH: The short answer is that there really I HAD TO MOVE pregnant. I decided to stay “ weren’t a lot of options. The longer home with the baby and TO AUSTIN TO GET A answer is that I saw a need for us all— figure it out from there. JOB IN L.A. on both the craft yarn and independent As you can imagine, yarn sides of the aisle—to band together there was a bit of a culture shock going from “to take control of a climate that for many years a demanding career to being alone all day with a has not been fortuitous. I believed one company tiny human. I needed a creative outlet, but also should not hold a majority share in the show. I something that felt like a business. I started an needed to create a level playing field, one where online site called Mamarama, where I sold “hip large craft stores and tiny indie dyers would both handmade goods for mamas and their wee ones.” feel at home. I also knew that what makes our This was way before blogs, social media or Etsy— industry thrive is community, one that now, thanks there were literally only about ten craft sites at to social media, spans continents. I concluded After years of watching the time. It wasn’t a viable business, but it put me that the only way to engage that community and Vickie Howell move through out there in this world of creative entrepreneurs the industry behind it was to get them all involved. and also, along with the stitch-and-bitch groups I To make a project for and with them. the yarn industry as a founded in L.A. and, later, Austin, a much needed seemingly unstoppable force, community. YMN: What’s it like to make an entire TV show To make a long story even longer, my then- for YouTube? Take us behind the scenes. Erin Slonaker sat down husband and I decided to move to his hometown, VH: It’s exhausting but exciting. The pace was with the yarnpreneur to learn Austin. One day, I got an e-mail from a Hollywood quicker than a network show: only about four producer. “Dear Sir or Madam,” it said, “Do you months from crowdfunding to “prime yarn time.” about her latest venture, the know anyone who would be interested in audition- We had to start field-piece segments immediately YouTube series The Knit Show. ing to become the host of a TV show focused on and schedule a tight, carefully preproduced stu- knitting?” I kid you not. She had done a web dio shoot, which meant filming two episodes per search for “young, hip knitter” and came across day for five days straight. But not having a net- YMN: How did you learned to knit/crochet, the logo for my stitch-and-bitch group. My time at work/studio behind us meant we didn’t have to what about it spoke to you? the talent agency taught me how to pitch, and I follow anybody else’s rules, which was exciting. VH: I learned both when I was 8. Crochet stuck—I had my very first design—a guitar strap—up on We could be creative in execution and crafty with loved making doll blankets out of granny squares. .com, so I called the producer and showed making things. Content producer Karin Strom Knitting, though—I was not at all into it. I think her what I could do. She asked if I would fly my- [former YMN editor in chief] and I had produced maybe my little hands weren’t dexterous enough self to L.A. to audition. When the universe drops together before, on Knitting Daily. Because of yet. I found the craft frustrating and moved on to an opportunity like Knitty Gritty in your lap, you that, we could immediately fall into step. When other things, like crafting, sewing, jewelry making. owe it to the kismet gods to run with it. That’s you’re working on the first season of any DIY Cut to almost 20 years later, when knitting what I’ve tried to do ever since—through writing show, it’s important to cater to beginners through was seeing a resurgence in popularity. It was books, developing content, acting as a creativity intermediate knitters. We started by picking 2001, and I was pregnant with my second son. ambassador, designing accessible projects, broad- project-based and technique- or trend-focused My friend Tracy convinced me to go to this popu- casting through multiple platforms, and creating a themes, then plugged in proposed expert guests. lar store in Studio City [California] called La Knit- TV-quality knitting and crochet lifestyle series that Our guests were willing to roll the dice on this terie Parisienne. When I walked in, I was greeted encourages a love of global community. experiment by coming to Austin in the middle of not only by gorgeous yarns I didn’t know existed summer to film a show about wool! but also a table of women sitting, knitting and YMN: What is it about those who create that having great conversations about life and current you find interesting? YMN: You’ve had your own yarn lines, a pod- events. It clicked for me right then and there: VH: I’m fascinated by the fact that unlike other cast, TV shows.… What’s next for you? creativity and community, that’s what knitting had professions, there isn’t just one discernible path VH: Why, do you know anyone who’s hiring? to offer me. I picked up my knitting needles that to becoming a creator. You can have a master’s Kidding! Seriously, though, I’m always open to op- day and haven't put them down since. degree in fine arts or a GED and still run in the portunities. I’m currently working on The Knit same circles because of your passion, experience Show book. And, of course, I’m hoping to produce YMN: You’ve had several careers, not all of and talent. I love hearing creators’ origin stories, future seasons of the show. In the meantime, them in knitting. What led you to where you which is why I started the podcast CRAFT*ish— I’m spending as much time as possible promoting are now? to could explore the career paths of everyone it, and the rest doing that crafty hustle that we VH: [Laughs] It seems like I’ve had several ca- from fashion designers to musicians. There’s an professional creators know so well.

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