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Tahsis Adventure Guide Tahsis Is Located on the West Edge of Vancouver Wildlife

Tahsis Adventure Guide Tahsis Is Located on the West Edge of Vancouver Wildlife

Tahsis Adventure Guide is located on the west edge of wildlife. Strong inflow and outflow winds and the Island – a rugged landscape of lush rainforest and nearby create great conditions for steep -like mountains, swept by the fresh strong Windsurfers & Kite Boarders in Tahsis Inlet. winds of the wild Pacific Ocean. This pristine coastal geography is the setting for some of the best recreation Tahsis Inlet, , and Esperanza Inlet offer opportunities on . Please note: areas of strong tidal activity and diverse marine life, all activities and routes described in this guide are conditions which attract divers who have the best followed at your own risk. chance in BC to view the prehistoric species of deep water 6 gill sharks. With the historic setting, monuments, and natural beauty, just walking around Tahsis is an adventure: Surfers are attracted by the wild Pacific waves off West Bay Park, the Leiner River Estuary Trail, and and Brooks Peninsula — a climatic Leiner River Campsite are close by. pocket that produces waters of the same temperature as those off the coast of Northern . Climbers Hikers are discovering the uncrowded trails and and cavers find the local areas of karst landscape and dramatic vistas, including the internationally famous exposed rock to offer some of Vancouver Island’s best Nootka Trail. Kayakers are enjoying the sheltered caving, climbing, and bouldering. inlet waters, the rugged coastal scenery, and abundant tTahsis Tahsis Original Townsite Park at the top of Princess Victoria View. Just before the A-frame Church on South is the foot of the Cardiac Climb stairs, a As South Maquinna heads down toward the steep and demanding climb. Walking Public Boat Launch, there is a picnic table around this section of the old town site and sign marking Ubedam Trail... a short is very rewarding for those interested hike up to Discovery Crescent and a in architecture, as this area features old popular shortcut for residents. Don’t float homes from the 1940s (the oldest in forget to drop by Captain Cook’s Pub at Tahsis) and the heritage building housing the Maquinna Resort to see the carved St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church. and painted murals created in the 1970s by local First Nation artist Art Nicolaye. Continue on down South Maquinna Drive to Tipperary, then walk around the To learn about Tahsis heritage sites as you “town-site” to see homes from the 1950s plus a explore, pick up the Tahsis Historical Walking spectacular view of the inlet from Tipperary St Joseph’s Church Tour brochure from the Tahsis Recreation Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-1 Centre, the Tahsis Chamber of Commerce Info River, another great spot to view wildlife, bird life, Centre, or online at www.tahsis.ca/guides. and spawning .

West Bay Park Leiner River Campsite A short drive past the Maquinna Resort is the 3 km (2 miles) out of Tahsis towards Gold River turnaround and parking lot for West Bay Park. There and just before the Leiner River Bridge is the Leiner are washrooms, and stairs River Campsite. Walk around and explore down to the rock beach at this section of the Leiner River, where the West Bay. This sheltered river expands out into a picturesque little little bay is an exception swimming hole with a swing rope. to the deep waters of Tahsis Inlet; it is shallow Leiner River Estuary Trail and southwesterly This 2 km long trail — under construction facing, catching the in the winter of 2004/2005 — provides sun and warming up to excellent wildlife viewing opportunities comfortable swimming Leiner River Campsite right on the doorstep of Tahsis. This temperatures. Locals frequently route is a level trail with boardwalks and viewing come down here to swim, sunbath and walk the short platforms on the salt marshes and along the Leiner trails in this area. River where it meets the sea. Wildlife often seen here include Trumpeter Swans, hawks, eagles, Tahsis Heliport and Tahsis River Bridges seals, salmon and bears. Many birds stop over here Back at the head of Alpine View is the Tahsis on their annual migrations. A riverside walking Heliport, and a very walk-able waterfront section that trail will link the boardwalk to the Leiner River is popular with locals walking their dogs. There is Campsite. The trail access is from the Tahsis road, an expansive panorama view of the head of the Inlet, just 500 metres short of town and is well marked. lots of local marine bird life and convenient parking. There is a parking lot and washroom at the trail The bridge close by is a great spot to view spawning head. This makes an easy afternoon stroll close to salmon going up the river in the fall. Stroll down the village. North Maquinna to the second bridge over the Tahsis tHiking Trails Near Tahsist Leiner Bouldering Trail turnaround at West Bay, or This short loop trail wanders along a scenic stretch you can backtrack and of the Leiner River where rock climbers can go up the practice their skills on the numerous house- road (only during sized boulders that litter the slopes of the weekends when narrow valley. At one point the trail passes there is no active through a short ‘cave’ between boulders. The logging taking Leiner’s deep azure pools are alive in the fall place) and head with spawning salmon. for the Coral Cave or The Lookout. Either Access to the trail is 30 metres east of the Leiner View from Lookout to Nootka destination is about 3 to 4 Bridge off the road to Tahsis, 3 km from town, hours to reach for an experienced hiker, and both on the upstream right bank. There is ample parking spots offer breathtaking views of the Tahsis Inlet. across the road. The loop walk is about 30 minutes For more detailed directions check out Caving and long but is strenuous with some rocks to climb over. the directions to Coral Cave.

Coral Cave and the Lookout Maquinna Trail A great place to start a more extended hike is from This rugged route was immortalized in the book West Bay Park, just past Maquinna Resort at the end “White Slaves of the Nootka” as the ridge that of town. There are shorter trails accessed from the ancestral Chief Maquinna sojourned on. It follows Page A-2 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-3 the ridge that rises between the Leiner and Tahsis town and over the bridges. The route follows the River valleys directly east of the village. flat valley bottom, often following the Tahsis River or its dry (in summer) watercourse. Occasionally Bushwacking will be necessary as this is a seldom it follows old remnants of a logging road left from used trail. While the first part of the hike is when the valley was logged in the 1940s. Much of moderately steep, one is rewarded by increasingly this road has been obliterated by river erosion since spectacular views of Tahsis then. Spectacular views of Inlet and the surrounding (1,875 peaks. The lower section is metres, 6,151 feet) greet the forested with visitor as they pass the base. with some Dogwood, rare Mountaineers may want to on the west coast. Above use this route as an access 450 metres the ascent is to the aptly named Rugged more gradual and the route is and its glacier, the largest mostly a semi-open sub alpine on Vancouver Island. The environment. Water is rare glacier is a steep hike of and should be carried. For the 1,000 metres (3,200 feet) most intrepid mountaineers, an 8 km (5 mile) hike elevation west of the highest point on the trail; there along the gently undulating ridge brings one to two is no marked route up, refer to a topographical map. small lakes below Mount Leiner which are 1,456 The Lake trail ascends steeply only at the metres (5,000 feet) high. headwaters and reaches a high point of 550 metres To find the trailhead, leave Tahsis (toward Gold (1,800 feet) before descending to Woss Lake at River) but stop where the road leaves the inlet and 140 metres (500 feet). There are heads inland, within sight of town. The trail entrance no roads from this end of the is flagged and heads up hill from here. The route is lake (still within Rugged flagged up to the 800 metres elevation (2,600 feet), Mountain Provincial Park) and can be followed further in clear weather by but the other end is road- staying on the obvious ridge line. accessible from Woss. Arrange for boat pickup Woss Lake Grease Trail from this end of the Trail. This ancient trade route was used by and crosses Vancouver Island from its southern terminus The total trail length from in Tahsis. The route followed the Tahsis River to its Tahsis Dump to Woss Lake headwaters and over a pass to Woss Lake, where the is about 12 km (7.5 miles). Nootka Trail - Beano Cliff natives paddled the lake and then down the Nimpkish Water is available along River to the ocean on the northeast side of Vancouver much of the route and there are some nice Island. Although not maintained as a marked route, wilderness camping spots in the upper reaches this trail begins at the north end of the Tahsis Dump, of the Tahsis River. There are opportunities for follow N. Maquinna trout in the river pools here. The trail is Street to the moderate in difficulty. north end Nootka Trail of Hugging the west coast of Nootka Island, the Nootka Trail provides an unsurpassed wilderness hiking experience featuring long beaches, secluded bays and spectacular headlands jutting into the Pacific Ocean. The trail is not in a park and is maintained by volunteer efforts but is a relatively easy hike which never rises more than 50 metres above sea level. It is not uncommon to see whales Nootka Trail - Maquinna Point including Greys, Humpbacks and Orcas close Page A-2 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-3 to shore; bears, , elk and wolves are some a tide guide before your trip is mandatory as you of the larger forest creatures although rarely seen. can use low tides to follow beach flats which are Old native sites are found along these shores, often otherwise inundated, making hiking much more marked only by old shell middens or whale bones. difficult. Most people take five days or longer to The forests are mostly old growth stands of spruce, complete the walk. Recommended footwear are hemlock and cedar. hiking boots and a sturdy pair of sandals with wetsuit booties for wading in the cooler weather. Hikers can take a water taxi to either trail head Some creek crossings also require low tide to cross (Louie Bay or Friendly Cove) from Tahsis or can and a sturdy pole can be useful for balance if the arrive by float plane from Gold River. Purchasing water is high. At places where the route leaves beaches, hanging fishing floats mark e k a the trail egress. Bring your own potable L s s water, as drinkable sources can be o W Tahsis infrequent. The northern end of the trail is accessed Glaciers Trail Map by walking the south side of Louie Bay Rugged at low tide. Be prepared to wade through Mountain a channel to the west coast. The south Undergrowth grows quickly end is from the dock at Friendly Cove on the West Coast. or . Yuquot is the site of an old Be prepared to Bushwack native village and the church is worth a Woss on wilderness trails. visit for a bit of the local history. There is Lake generally a charge to cross the reservation X Mount Grease at this end of the trail but camping is Trail r McKelvie e included with the fee. The north end iv R of the trail features low headlands and is s h sandy coves, while beaches dominate the a T central portion. A popular camping spot k ee Mount Leiner W Cr and swimming hole is Calvin Falls, a e X vi el 12 metre high cascade dropping directly cK Tahsis M onto the beach. The southern third is Dump dominated by a series of spectacular (bridge out) il ra T headlands formed of volcanics mixed a Coral n Ex n with marble, often with large sea caves tra Cave i vag M u ant q Leiner River Cre a and beaches tucked into tiny coves. ek M B Leiner There are no facilities along the trail L Bouldering although there are some private cabins at C Trail Leiner Estuary Beano Creek (do not disturb) and close Boardwalk/Trail West to Friendly Cove (the latter are available Bay to rent). It is useful for hiking groups Park to carry a VHF radio or Sat-phone for L Leiner Estuary Boardwalk emergencies. The route can become Ceepeecee B Leiner Bouldering Trail Perry Lake dangerous in severe storms, mostly in W Woss Lake Trail Lake winter. Guidebooks are available for this M Maquinna Trail trail and a good historical book to read on Tahsis Narrows A Malaspina Lake Trail Malaspina (The Cut) Peak X C Logging Road to Coral Cave the way is “White Slaves of the Nootka”, Mozino Point written about native life in Yuquot and Malaspina A McBride Bay Lake Trail Tahsis in the late 1700s.

Page A-4 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-5 tKayakingt

Tahsis Inlet For experienced Kayakers, the outer edge of Nootka Tahsis Inlet has many attractions for even short Island offers extreme kayaking with surf, heavy seas excursion kayaking and canoeing from Tahsis. and dramatic weather conditions. During high tide the Tahsis River and the Leiner Kayaking Esperanza Inlet Estuary open up, and both rivers feature striking To explore Esperanza Inlet and scenery and splendid wildlife and Nuchaltlitz, allow a day for your bird viewing opportunities. paddle out. The same wind Both rivers offer particularly patterns affect the Esperanza excellent wildlife viewing Inlet as Tahsis Inlet and during the fall, when Nootka Sound — see spawning salmon attract previous description of eagles and bears. kayaking to Friendly Cove. Kayaking Tahsis Inlet, After leaving Tahsis, take Nootka Sound and Yuquot ‘The Cut’ (Tahsis Narrows) When kayaking Tahsis Inlet and after you pass West Bay, and head to Nootka Sound, it is best to work with Esperanza Inlet. To stretch your legs, stop at the winds and tides. On most days there Kayaking Tahsis Inlet Esperanza, a small religious community and are outflow and inflow winds down Tahsis First Nations retreat with dock and tackle shop. Inlet to Nootka Sound. The wind flows out from Tahsis to Nootka Sound starting at daybreak, and then Continue on to Garden Point and Rosa Island just reverses around 11:00 AM and then flows inward from off Nootka Island, with good camping spots above Nootka Sound to Tahsis till about 4:00 or 5:00 PM. the high time mark.Take your own potable water, Ideally, you would kayak out in the morning with the especially in the summer. outflow winds and an outgoing tide, and on return voyages come back in the late afternoon inflow There are also excellent camping spots on Catala winds and the incoming tide. Be prepared for a Island and Yellow Bluff on the North Shore, but slower journey back, in the event of weather changes access to both requires crossing open water when that override this daily pattern. the tides are good and water is calm. Fresh water is not always available at either camping spot. From To kayak to Friendly Cove (Yuquot) allow an all-day Rosa or Garden point, kayaking in Mary Basin up paddle. Eight miles south of Tahsis on the eastern to Ferrer Point has many advantages. There are lots shore is a sandy beach with fresh water. Further along of little streams, safe protected kayaking, in Bligh Island Marine Park are rest/camping areas families, eagles, bears, and marine birds. Mary Basin with fresh water. Camping spots are also available in Friendly Cove. This whole area where Tahsis Inlet, Kendrick Inlet, Tlupana Inlet and Muchalaht Inlet converge is particularly suited to exploration by kayak, though care must be taken in crossing the open waters between Bligh Island and Nootka Island.

Friendly Cove (Yuquot) provides sheltered kayaking and calm water docking. There is a $10 landing fee to visit this historic site where Captain Cook first navigated to the West Coast of and met with Chief Maquinna and the Mowachaht Tribe. Visit the Yuquot Church and the Friendly Cove Lighthouse for a tour. Kayaking Nootka Island

Page A-4 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-5 also has an historic area with a former First Nation choose to be dropped off to this area of Esperanza reservation, and many interesting trails, especially Inlet by Kayak transport from Tahsis or Zeballos. in the eastern part of the basin. Please be aware of changing tides and weather conditions as you Brooks Peninsula approach the open ocean past Ferrer Point. For longer and more extreme kayaking excursions, further up the coast past Tatchu point is Brooks Nuchatlitz is a scattering of small islands surrounded Peninsula Provincial Park with 51,631 hectares of by protected waters located between Rosa Island and pristine wilderness and a unique ecosystem. Please Nuchatlitz Inlet, and is the traditional home of the check park regulations as a permit may be required . Nuchatlitz is an increasingly to visit this area. popular kayaking destination. Many Kayakers now

tCavingt In the past few years Tahsis has become know as and the surrounding peaks as you climb to 480 the “Caving Capital of ” due to its vast metres (1575 feet). As you are driving over karst networks of caverns in nearby hills, which attract (limestone rock with caves and sinkholes), watch for caving clubs from around the world. Visitors are holes that occasionally appear in the road. Where the reminded that caving requires specialized equipment bridge has been removed, park and cross the creek, and experience, and it is not advisable to enter an following the old road for a short distance and take unfamiliar cave without appropriate equipment and the right fork past a junction. experience. Look for a sign and trail to the cave on the Upana Caves left, shortly after the junction. Coral The Upana Caves are located along the Tree Cave is over a kilometer long, to Sea Drive, just before Bull Lake Summit the main passage about the coming from Gold River. Formed by an size of a subway tunnel as underground stream, the caves are 300 it descends gradually to metres long with many entrances a permanently flooded linked by good trails. It is also known sump. Each caver as the caves used in the movie needs warm clothing, ‘Huckleberry Finn’. The large lower a helmet and three stream entrance is an impressive sight independent light — don’t forget your camera. Bring sources. There are lights and helmets.There is ample some climbs; the worst parking and a washroom on-site. can be bypassed in Coral Cave adjacent side passages. These are the most accessible caves Watch out for holes in near Tahsis. They are near the the floor. Lookout above town, accessed This cave should through logging roads just past the never be entered during Maquinna Resort. rainfalls as it may flash Drive the south of flood. town past the turnoff to West Bay Park and take the first right turn up Extravagant Mainline (unsigned). Coral Cave entrance This road is for 4WD or high clearance vehicles and snakes its way uphill over 6 km (4 miles). There are spectacular views of Tahsis Inlet

Page A-6 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-7 tScuba Diving & Snorkelingt

Tahsis Narrows & Mozino Point conditions provided by the strong tidal current. The Tahsis is one of the best places on the BC Coast to Cut — as locals call the Tahsis Narrows — also has view 6-gill sharks — a prehistoric species of deep- carpets of pink strawberry anemones, water shark that comes to shallower depths during King Crabs and Cloud Sponges. summertime algae blooms. Tahsis Inlet is extremely deep, which allows the sharks to live in the darker Snorkeling depths most of the year, then come to shallower Tahsis and Leiner waters when the salmon return to spawn. Rivers provide excellent snorkeling It is suspected that algae reduce light levels to a opportunities in the Prehistoric 6-Gill Shark comfortable level for them. 6 Gill Sharks — a big, late summer and early fall slow moving shark typically from 6 to 10 feet but when the Salmon return to spawn. At that time the can range from 4 feet rivers are full of Coho and Chinook, as well as the to 16 feet long — are occasional Pink, Chum, and Sockeye. more numerous and Little Espinoza Inlet more easily viewed Little Espinoza Inlet has remarkable biodiversity, and in the Tahsis Inlet is also a favoured diving spot. than in any other location on the BC coast. You can shore dive to see these amazing creatures from the Municipal Dock or Maquinna Dock during the summer and fall, and they can be seen at depths as shallow as 30 feet.

Tahsis Inlet has a rare Gorgorian Coral Grove at Mozino Point in the Tahsis Narrows at divable depths starting just over 100 feet. The local stand of Coral shows intense colour due to the ideal growing Cloud Sponge and small Rockfish

tSurfingt tWind Surfing & Kite Boardingt The outside edge of Nootka Island, the Brooks Still in its infancy as a sport in this province, Wind Peninsula, and Hesquiat Peninsula experience Surfing & Kite Boarding are gaining in popularity dramatic surfing waves, at temperatures identical as a recreational pastime throughout BC. Although to the waters of North California — the whole area extensive research into suitable locations has not occupies one of the most moderate climatic pockets been done, there are several spots that have suitable in Canada. Nootka’s outer reefs are known for their characteristics, including Tahsis Inlet and Muchalaht consistent wave action, all in a setting of spectacular Inlet. In summer beaches, waterfalls, and coastal mountains. and fall of 2004, Tahsis residents saw Brooks Peninsula is an ecological reserve area the first pioneers and Provincial Park. River mouth and reef breaks, testing the inflow combined with consistent offshore mountain and outflow winds downdrafts, provide an ideal surfing environment. on the inlet. Hesquiat Peninsula’s profile allows it to catch most swell directions providing great surf spots. Surfing Nootka Island

Page A-6 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca Page A-7 tWildlife Viewingt

Birding porpoise, the and the Migratory hummingbirds gather in great numbers which migrate along the western coast of Vancouver in the Tahsis town site from March to late June Island, sea otters, sea lions and harbour seals. or early July. Many Tahsis residents, charmed by these unique birds, plant hummingbird friendly The wide and plentiful variety of fish and shellfish flowers and keep their allow for rich diets for sea otters, which are plentiful hummingbird in Esperanza Inlet and Nootka Sound. Their smaller feeders well cousins, river otters have been known to come right stocked during up to the public boat ramp, checking out any visitors their stay. and then quietly ducking out of sight.

Tahsis Inlet Wild Life and area are Black bears are seen most often in the fall during the home to some of salmon runs, fishing along the rivers and streams. the most beautiful birds that inhabit : The black bears scavenge for dead fish and birds, wild swans that winter in Tahsis Inlet, Bald Eagles forage on inter tidal plants and animals, and consume present year round, various species of ducks, geese berries that grow along the shore. Black bears use and other water birds, the vivid blue Stellar Jays, large, old trees such as western red cedar as winter robins, crows and ravens, and such interesting den sites. These sites are most abundant in mature species as the tufted puffin and great blue heron. The and old forests. While for the most part they like to waterways and trails around Tahsis provide plenty be left alone, they frequently wander into the town of opportunities for the avid bird watcher to site in the late summer and early fall looking for spot a variety of species. fruit trees and berry bushes. While there is no known case in recent years of a bear harming The most commonly seen marine birds a human being and they usually head for the are: red-throated loon, common loon, bush or the nearest tree when approached, marbled murrelet, western grebe, red- care should be taken with these strong wild necked grebe, Leach’s storm petrel, animals. forked-tailed storm petrel, Brandt’s cormorant, pelagic cormorant, great blue Also in the area are , wolf, deer, heron, Canada Geese, black brant, white- , weasels, and mink fronted goose, Trumpeter Swan, mallard, – not to mention the odd squirrel or two. American Widgeon, green-winged teal, In the spring and summer the majestic elk northern pintail, bufflehead, harlequin can be seen with their young ones, in singles duck, surf scoter, white wing scoter, bald or pairs, along the Tahsis road from Gold River. eagles, black oystercatcher, glaucous-winged gulls, Be cautious and careful when driving to Tahsis as common murrelet, Marbled Murrelet, Cassin’s auklet, wildlife is frequently on the road. rhinoceros auklet, tufted puffin and pigeon guillemot.

Near shore and offshore locations serve as important breeding areas, summer and wintering areas, migration corridors and staging areas. The four breeding locations in the Nootka area dentified by the Canadian Wildlife Service are Cameron Rocks, Ensanada Islet, Justice rock and White Island. Marine Life Marine life in the Nootka area include Orcas (commonly referred to as killer whales), the harbour Page A-8 Village of Tahsis Community Profile January 2005 www.tahsis.ca

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