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u s o Concorde i ig e b Pyramides i n r Galerie National l Tu Petit 2e e Arts et Métiers e e s . d D r du Jeu de Paume h p - c t Palais r i Banque de . r m n T d . R i r. Obélisque e e S a R r R a France a éa ra i i e h u s v n r. S m s o t d C Ét u e li - e ie . r place de la d H . r n r rs La Reine r s n cou e o Jardin du t e r s n i v M . F o t ar d Concorde Musée de e Tuileries r u ce e u é Palais e l il o e B la P L l a l'Orangérie n Étienne Marcel r l ts s p e e Royal u t e o ag e d Jardin d ig m d b e d r . ur r s n T r T . T e t o e Palais x Bourse du e au 3e e r des i . d x n c ra r Les Halles u iv n s o Ou d o s Royal r Commerce rs . h Filles Du p o e r. c ay d Tuileries r C d r r quai d'Ors C q u . S 1er u u a . Gr A Calvaire a Bo int r St en i d rd Jardin du -H -La ier s es d ono Châtelet zare e Tu e ré Musée d'Art d Palais Bourbon b Assemblée ile l'E Carrousel r. Les Halles r. d rie au de Forum des et d'Histoire Assemblée . s Palais Royal R S Nationale iv r Rambuteau ol y . Saint Halles du Judaïsme a L Musée du Louvre i n H Nationale i a ono l r n g re . q i o r d t u l . e r. de - a p R s l’Univer G i A o Châtelet Pompidou a Archives sité o m 4 Musée n C b e a Musée t F to r u il MARAIS r e . s te s m e le Centre a Nationales d'Orsay l d d a u Ministère de s F Louvre Rivoli Musée a s ra e du Louvre l e b a n S s a s in c e é la Défence h e u r H Picasso in t i S Musée de c e e Police e s Musée n o a l e r. le r d m l s r l e p v S o r t . l d i INVALIDES a e q . A d e r l'Histoire de i a r r d n d'Orsay u p ' e s Station m h t B a l R . a c - i C A e D c V qu Pont Neuf iv r o e o ai du o d n T France m a l u s Lou l A d ta vr i b e in B i d e e u i r. re R s q d Tour d e u u f . e q t q u r d Solférino d u u ua . ai n i d . Institut r M e d Châtelet St-Jacques r a o e . laq a N La r 7e u is p M Géographique t ég n iss av National o er . V Hôtel de Ville Ministère des p ie e ict g ori Affaires t n q a a u n a u h i o d a Étrangères C e Hôtel p b t - G Palais de Justice u e o r n e s . Hôtel de la a v L d r e r de Ville e École o t e R s s e iv i p m ra o Musée des Rue du Monnaie o r. F ncoi li a a q d s M St-Paul Square La Conciegerie l N e u Nationale G l a . iro Bac a D t i r n r q n o d a P é c e u t o d’Administration n Ste- Cité i Hotel r l y a u L ' c d i p A a H d C ' ô r s d t 4e u r e Chapelle . Dieu d e Musée . d b A a l o e d s d L d s . u l e F u V St St-Germain g b S V e a e b - e a r u e e en Ge h ÎLE DE LA in il l d s l e n t e d r d Église Du i e s m des Prés t c d e t u l a i n i s . n n . e in . n i e Pont r a a s o r CITÉ a Hôtel r R M o u p P v - é p t p o - V t i t e p Marie t a n l q t L i I P S l n . n q s - u o i i r a e u a s St-Germain o h p s i c a S P t P r P t i S e t d a -M n . n r . A e e r d i des Prés i . St-Michel i ' nt i s c r o o l p C . a h r r d d du Fou e s p a é d S i l Presidence r. e l Notre- St-Lou es b M s Mabillon t ti s T q n e re i u s v o Odéon ÎLE du Conseil d e Sè t a Dame u i . r. d e d

r r 6e P e ST-LOUIS

n St-françois r. de Babylone t M o u St-Sulpice Cluny n on Sèvres n d a l o t l Bon b . e Sully Morland e d r P b e e Babylone La Sorbonne . S r e l h a . ll d l r i L o . Marché nt t e c - a q V i G n n place er gr u r s place m a o e M Musée ai i d u lly a r - n an e p u du v t o S b n è A. Deville la T e S n de Cluny g T d d e e i Maubert ou nt a e 5e o . d a r . n p Square d u r S e lle e . Barye s d d e Vaugirar La Sorbonne I r. d b n v s a r é i rd . s d l ira d r i id g s a d u e r o M Va Musée De . F n e e r e d M M s e s r. e h é -B rc O d t e d r. in h i N a 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/0810:47PMPage7 C c i G S u s d E r. stylish—remember, you’re inParis. earlyandwearso start shoes.Butmake comfortable sure they’re T @ instant postcard.Welcome toParis. lovelyperfect, viewpoint isyour own lost theirheadsontheguillotine.This ing Louis XVIandMarieAntoinette, sands ofrevolutionary victims,includ- near thespotwhere, in1792,thou- Obelisk (agiftfrom Egyptin1829), 3,300-year-oldthe sleek, Luxor fountains, tourists,andtraffic stands the French Parliament). Amidthe Seine (hometothelower houseof Assemblée Nationaleacross the your left—a mirror imageofthe neoclassical MadeleineChurch to you’ll see themassive 19th-century, class Louvre Museum.From here, Louvre beyond, hometotheworld- Tuileries gardensandthePalais du Now 180degrees, turn andfindthe monument toNapoleon’s conquests. the formidable Arc deTriomphe, a straight lineoftheChampsElysées to so thatyou canseedown thelong the Eiffel Tower, thenpositionyourself gratification. First admire theview of good placetogetimmediateParis This isthecity’s largest square, anda 1 sion. Métro: Concorde. see theedificesaglow. Free admis- avoid crowds, orjustaftersunsetto A fountain inPlacedelaConcorde. 10 min. Go early in the morning to 10 min.Goearlyinthemorning ★★ had only 24 hours in the City of Light. It’shad only24hours intheCityofLight. anambitiousitinerary, his 1-day Iwould tourincludeseverything want toseeif Place delaConcorde. START: fall. Métro: Tuileries orConcorde. 7am–9pm; winterdaily7am–night- 2 of Impressionism willbeinparadise. It’s amust-seefor anyone, butfans works created from 1848to1914. intoamuseumdevotedturned to for a1900exposition andlater old BelleEpoquetrain stationbuilt until you reach theGare d’Orsay, the views oftheJardindesTuileries) along theriver (enjoying lovely Walkpont Royal right. andturn oronthe de Solferino left, andturn Tuileries, cross theriver onthepont Depending onwhere you exit the 3 and shadedtableswhere you can statues, ice-cream stands,ponds, to seeanddohere, withdozensof the MuséeduLouvre. There’s plenty dusty mainalleéleadingdown to sculpted pathsthatstretch offthe fields, lacychestnuttrees shade space aboutthesizeoftwo football Louvre’s statelygardensbegin.Ona de laConcordeendswhere the p. 90. the “JardindesTuileries” touron stretch outandhave Seealso arest. Jardin desTuileries. ★★★ @ Métro toConcorde. 20 min.Summerdaily Musée d’Orsay. Place

in One Day One in The Best Best The 7 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 8

The Musée d'Orsay

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A huge, ornate clock dominates the Monet fans should also head light-filled central hall. Statues of straight to Room 32. Degas’ tiny bal- robust maidens and eager men by lerinas twirl for the crowds and their Rude, Barye, and Carrier-Belleuse cameras in v Room 31. Van (all 19th-c. sculptors) stand where Gogh’s bittersweet Starry Night can the train tracks once lay. Those by barely be seen through the crowds Carpeaux, including s La Danse of fans in w Room 35. @ 2–3 hr. (once controversial for its frolicking Go early in the morning or in the late nude figures), are extraordinary. afternoon to avoid long lines. 1 rue Nearby, in t Room 19, is Manet’s de la Légion d’Honneur, 7th. y 01- striking Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Picnic 40-49- 48-14. www.musee-orsay.fr. on the Grass), a painting of a grace- Admission 8 ages 31 and over, ful nude woman picnicking 5.50 ages 18–30, free for children with fully clothed under 18. You can buy tickets men that shocked in advance online and from respectable society FNAC. Tues–Wed & Fri–Sun when it was first exhib- 9.30am–6pm; Thurs ited. Upstairs in u 9.30 am–9:45pm. Métro: Room 32, Renoir’s Solférino and Assemblée joyous Moulin de la Natioanle. RER: Musée Galette hangs near d’Orsay. the jaundiced cafego- ers in Degas’ 1876 Absinthe The clock that graces the (one of his most reproduced works). museum’s central hall. 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 9

9 The Best in One Day

Pont Neuf.

makeover, but most of the building is ★ 4 Café des Hauteurs. Take a much older—several parts date to the break over fresh baguette sand- 12th and 13th centuries when it was a wiches and onion soup in the royal palace. During the French Revo- Musée d’Orsay’s bustling top-floor lution, torture and execution were cafe. In the summer, eat out on the commonplace here, and it became a balcony to take in views of the symbol of terror. You can visit cells in Seine. Indulge your sweet tooth which prisoners were held (including with a slice of rich chocolate cake. $ Marie Antoinette’s), as well as the for- mer banquet halls and guard rooms. 5 ★★★ Ile de la Cité. When the The standout attraction here is the weather’s fine, one of the most medieval Sainte-Chapelle, one of the Parisian things you can do is stroll most beautiful chapels you’ll ever see. along the Seine to the Ile de la Cité, It’s famous for the breathtaking “light the birthplace of Paris. Take a right as show” cast on the interior when the you leave the museum. It’s about a sun shines through the stained-glass 15-minute stroll down to this island, windows. @ 45 min. 2 bd. du Palais, y home to Notre-Dame Cathedral. 1st. 01-53-40-60-97. www. Cross onto the island at the pont monuments-nationaux.fr. Admission

Neuf (New Bridge), which despite its 6.50 ages 26 and over, 4.40 ages name is the oldest bridge in the city, 18–25, free for children under 18. characterized by the statue of Henri Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–6pm, Nov–Feb IV who commissioned the “pont” daily 9am–5pm. Métro: Cité. in 1578. On the island, tall, 19th- 7 ★★★ Cathédrale de Notre- century buildings keep the narrow Dame. Wind your way to the south- streets in perpetual shadow. The ern tip of the island to see the pretty Place Dauphine, recognizable familiar silhouette of one of the by its pink brickwork, reflects Henri’s world’s most iconic cathedrals. taste for Italian classicism. @ 30 min. Founded in 1160 by Maurice de Most of the action happens in the Sully, bishop of Paris, Notre-Dame early afternoon. You can have it all witnessed the passing of wars of to yourself first thing in the morning. religion and centuries of kings Free admission. Métro: Pont Neuf. (Napoleon also crowned himself 6 ★★ La Conciergerie. The fairy- emperor here in 1804), before loos- tale towers that soar above the north ing its riches to plunderers during end of the island near the pont Neuf the Revolution. By the 19th century, lead you to the fortress where Marie it had fallen into disrepair and was Antoinette was imprisoned before scheduled for demolition until her execution. Its intimidating look author Victor Hugo led a successful is largely courtesy of an 1850s campaign for its restoration. 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 10

Notre-Dame de Paris

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At the far end of the [ nave are birds of prey. @ 2 hr. Parvis Notre- three elaborately sculpted 13th- Dame—Place Jean Paul II, 4th. y 01- century portals: on the left the Por- 42-34-56-10. www.cathedraledeparis. tal of the Virgin, in the center the com. Free admission to cathedral, Portal of the Last Judgment, and 7.50 to tower and crypt;, 3 to on the right the Portal of St. Anne. treasury. Cathedral: daily 8am– Above them all glow the ruby hues 6:45pm. Tower: Oct–Mar daily of the West Rose Window, its beauty 10am–5:30pm, Apr–May & Sept surpassed only by the ] North Mon–Fri 10am–6:30pm & Sat–Sun Rose Window. The colors are espe- 10am–11pm, Jun–Aug daily cially vivid in the late afternoon. 10am–11pm.Crypt: Near the altar is the 14th-century Oct–Mar daily \ Virgin and Child. In the ; 10am–5:30pm, treasury, you’ll find a collection of Apr–Sept daily crosses and ancient reliquaries, 10am–6:30pm. including the Crown of Thorns Treasury: Mon–Sat (brought from the Sainte-Chapelle). 9:30am–6pm, Sun To get an up-close look at the cathe- 2–6pm. Métro: dral’s famous gargoyles you must Cité. climb 67m (220 ft.) up the ' tower on old stone staircases—a strenu- ous workout, but the non-agorapho- One of Notre- bic will love the views of the fanciful Dame’s many gargoyles. and detailed hobgoblins, devils, and 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 11

11 The Best in One Day

Floating along the Seine.

regular haunt of both Sartre and ★ 8 Le Flore en l’Isle. Escape Hemingway. At either spot you can the crowds by crossing pont St- linger over a café au lait (5 ) or Louis, behind Notre-Dame, to tiny enjoy a complete meal (16 –28 ). Ile St-Louis. Several cafes near the bridge have excellent views of the 0 ★★ Boat Tripping. If you have cathedral’s famous flying but- any energy left after dinner, walk tresses. Le Flore is one of the best down to the riverside at the pont cafes on the island for ice cream Neuf and catch one of Vedettes du and sorbet. 42 quai d’Orleans, 4th. Pont Neuf’s long, low boats. By y 01-43-29-88-27. $ night, they glow with lights as they navigate the river, offering magical views of Paris. @ 1 hr. Square du 9 ★★ Relaxing in St-Germain. Vert Galant, 4th. y 01-46-33-98-38. Retrace your steps back across the www.vedettesdupontneuf.com. Ile de la Cité and continue to the Left Tickets 11 adults, 6 children 4–12. Bank. Turn left on rue de la Cité and Mar–Oct daily 10:30am–10:30pm cross the bridge into the bustle of St- about every 30 min. Nov–Feb daily Germain-des-Prés. This area was the 10:30am–10pm about every 45 min. incubator for artistic creativity in the 1920s, for Nazi resistance in the Café de Flore, in St-Germain. 1940s, and for student revolution in the 1960s. These days, you can get a great cup of coffee, drop a wad of money on high-fashion clothes, or spend a night on the town. The best way to experience the neighborhood is to wander along glittering, tree- lined boulevard St-Germain, soaking up the atmosphere and stopping at shops and bars that spark your fancy. My favorite cafes include the stylish Café de Flore, 172 bd. St- Germain (y 01-45-48-55-26), a favorite of the philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre; and the more touristy Les Deux Magots, 6 place St-Germain- des-Prés (y 01-45-48-55-26), a r. r M d . u d o 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/0810:47PMPage12 e n F t a C m u ou a bo r r u c t r e re g l le

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The Best

d f you followed the 1-day tour of Paris you’ve already had a r

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u from France’s high-speed TGV trains.

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û n e d u l Î a

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m d e t n entrance in the glass pyramid in the boudoir and a grandiose Louis- p

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f e R

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e ’ i St S l s L d i le l h ce . r v u P - o a C e St r. d 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 14

14 city’s old Jewish quarter and home to magnificent 17th and 18th century mansions (called hôtels). You can spend hours perusing its charm- ing boutiques, tiny Jewish bakeries, and absorbing museums if you take the Marais tour (p 64). One of its Full-Day Tours Full-Day most picturesque squares is the Place des Vosges—Paris’s oldest square, remarkable for its perfect symmetry, formed by 36 red-brick-

The Best and-stone arcades with sharply pitched roofs. In 1615 a 3-day party was held here celebrating Louis XIII’s marriage to Anne of Austria. @ 2 hr. Jewish shops and restau- rants close on Sat, the Jewish Sab- bath. Many boutiques open on Sun. Métro: St-Paul.

6 ★ L’As du Falafel. This tiny cafe, with a window for takeout orders, makes the best falafel sand- Place des Vosges. wiches (4 ) in the city. Unless it’s raining I get mine to go, and eat it Admission 8 for ages 26 and over, on a bench in nearby place des Vos- 6.50 for ages 18–25, free for chil- ges. (See previous stop.) 34 rue des dren under 18. Tues–Wed & Fri Rosiers, 4th. y 01-48-87-63-60. $ 11am–6pm, Thurs 11am–9pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Métro: Palais- Royal Musée du Louvre. 7 ★ Place de la Bastille. From 4 ★★ The Pompidou Centre. Place des Vosges, it’s a very short If the Louvre’s classic artworks leave walk to Place de la Bastille, the site you craving modernity, walk east- of one of the most famous moments ward, past the shops and cafes sur- in French revolutionary history. Here rounding Châtelet-les-Halles, to stood the Bastille prison, a massive Paris’s most avant-garde building, building that loomed ominously over the Pompidou Centre—the world’s the city. On July 14, 1789, a mob leading modern and contemporary attacked it, freeing all of France from art museum after MoMA in New the tyranny of its presence. Today, York. Even by today’s standards the the site is not so threatening—it’s museum’s bold, “exoskeletal” archi- home to the modern Bastille Opera tecture, with brightly painted pipes, House and a busy traffic circle. The ducts, and escalator tubes criss- central column, the Colonne de Juil- crossing on the outside, looks let, honors the victims of the 1830 eccentric. See p 34, bullet 1. revolution, which ironically put Louis-Philippe on the throne after ★★ 5 The Marais. After so the upheaval of the Napoleonic much culture, I find nothing more wars. @ 15 min. Métro: Bastille. relaxing than strolling around the ★ winding medieval streets of the 8 Opéra Bastille. This impos- Marais district—traditionally the sible-to-miss behemoth (it has been 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 15

15 The Best compared to a beached whale), dance performances beneath an which opened in 1989, is the home elaborate false ceiling painted by of the Opéra National de Paris. It’s Chagall in 1964. The facade is all clear that the designer of the build- marble and flowing sculpture, with ing, Carlos Ott, paid a lot of atten- gilded busts, multihued pillars, and in Two Days tion to its appearance, but music vivid mosaics. This is where the lovers say it would have been nice if Phantom did his haunting, and for acoustics had been taken into con- the price of a ticket you can wander sideration, too. Despite this, operas its halls too. @ 20 min. Place de played here are of the highest stan- l’Opera, 9th. y 01-40-01-17-89. dard. Tickets are sold online, at www.operadeparis.fr. Tickets FNAC (see p 88), or you can try your 23 –114 . Métro: Opéra. luck 40 minutes before the perform- 0 ★★ Shopping around ance when remaining tickets are Faubourg St-Honoré. Well, since sold off at a discount. @ 15 min. 2 you’re here . . . Opéra Garnier is place de la Bastille, 4th. y 01-40- smack-dab in the middle of France’s 01-17-89. www.operadeparis.fr. most exclusive shopping area, simply Tickets 20 –114 . Métro: Bastille. called “the Faubourg” by those in the 9 ★★ Opéra Garnier. Now go know. Try Alain Figaret (21 rue de la see what opera used to look like in Paix) for men’s shirts and women’s Paris. You can either hop back on blouses; Charvet (28 place the Métro (line 8), and take it to Vendôme) for custom-made clothes; Opéra, or take a taxi to Charles Gar- or Cherry Chau (87 passage de nier’s architectural explosion, which Choiseul) for affordable handmade goes beyond baroque and well into jewelry. About a 15-minute walk rococo. This was the city’s main away (east) is the Annexe des Créa- opera house until Opéra Bastille teurs (19 rue Godot de Mauroy)—a came along, but now it also hosts fabulous discount shop for designer fashions. Another 15-minute walk Opéra Garnier. (west) takes you to the oh-so-French makeup and perfume at Guerlain (68 av. des Champs-Elysées) and Sephora (70 av. des Champs- Elysées). @ 2 hr. Métro: Opéra.

! ★★★ Hemingway Bar at the Ritz. After a long day traversing the city, a drink might be in order. The dark wood, leather chairs, photos of Papa everywhere, and charm of the bar staff make this one of the best bars in Paris—this is what expat living is all about. Drinks, though, are outrageously expensive (23 for a raspberry martini). Hotel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1st. y 01- 43-16-30-31. www.ritzparis.com. Open Tues–Sat 6:30pm–2am. Closed July 25–Aug 25. Métro: Madeleine or Concorde. 05_384350-ch01.qxp 10/17/08 10:47 PM Page 16

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r u ir t h . y ta n ' 01-53-41-89-00. www.sacre-coeur- ut De Lamarine t a Os from the exertion of climbing all those Palais de La li n e c h T a e e h C Station l r o Petit u a p C r b é d t i e R Découverte Galerie National o e i é . Concorde o r - u 9e l d d d t d mmide r montmartre.com. Free admission to Palais av F . r . r stairs). Take the Métro to Abbesses or D . - du Jeu de Paume r in 'a a E t e r u r A d a . w 18e a S lg o y r v r S Université W d . r. S P g Obélisque . 17e a 19 Te r d A 9 basilica; 6 to dome & crypt. Daily . ' r e Blanche, and head upward. Fall in love T e t s u e 2 r v c R k r i d e . e n Paris IV ra vo l S a s l . u l d t 9e s i r i a e remier place de e d i . cours Albert P 10e u nt r u 8e la Concorde d . J with streets like rue des Abbesses, 6am–11pm. Métro: Abbesses. e r -H i cours La Reine s l 2e Fe Tuileries on 1e 3e 20e uill o 16e 11e ant ré rue des Trois Frères, or rue des Mar- 7e 4e Musée De s

L'orangérie t Jardin des e 6e tyres. Find the windmills on rue Lepic, n r 5e la o ★★ d e p 3 Un Zèbre à Montmartre. 15e e n 12e d Tuileries d r a o MuMusée de La x t or the racier one atop the still-titillat- n c e l 14e 13e o n Pubublicté de La A o Back down on rue Lepic, tourist traps ay p quai D’ors C Modede Et des Arts ing Moulin Rouge. For more guidance, Décoratifs give way to pleasant, bohemian o t try the Montmartre walking tour on db t r Assemblée q n d n in ua e Invalides Palais Bourbon a r i Jardin du cafes like this one, not far from the i . o d b r S Nationale P e e lf s a T F @ Assemblée B a u p 68. 2 hr. Métro: Abbesses or i o il . . n er Carrousel r t S La ie Café des Deux Moulins where Amélie Nationale A - s . g r e r. qu r. r de a Place Blanche. de l’Unive m L i A S rsité ille na ei l worked in the film of the same name. a tol n a place du in e F e y o ran o INVALIDES Palais n c R ★★★ i e e 2 Sacré Coeur. You can Salads here are a meal in themselves e r s t e Bourbon d f s Musée n l e Ministère . l a Musée o e n r o h P s i c d’Orsay u t r. de la Défence S e d’Orsay t either take a funicular up from the and the atmosphere wholly “Mont- e o n S l n a l r d a i q o r n e r t . u Esplanade . t B d a p a r s - e i V end of rue Berthe or, better still, wan- martrois.” 38 rue Lepic, 18th. y 01- C D L o n o e ille lt quai m e a u du Lou o c des Invalides e d n ire vre in r. d n r . a C i d u Institut e q r e B g i u r a der up via bustling place du Tertre; 42-23-97-80. $ r e l’U . o r e é . l n u Géographique g a i B P s v d r C e r a r . e u i s s r d National e ité e d École Nationale however you get here, this white, o s . m r B i Solférino s Ve Supérieure des a Ministère des rne C u Beaux Arts e . il r Affaires d e Sacré Coeur. Varenne s Étrangères r. s e t a c r d h a . e a r c B p e Hôtel des ll G u a re d n e n r. o 7e B el Faculté de Invalides le B s t e î e e Médecine d Rue du Bac o . n r y m n u u Univ. Paris V e L . a B r c ll y a e i t u u n Musée B d i o . G J r u r a . d r. b e d d S Rodin . e - S Va . t t- . r r d r n G e e b i s n rm Église du t n d a d e e e in e Sa . d Hôtel b Dôme i u r l R r. a G a e a Matignon a r s s e St Germain B e v s i e ne r . n p a n r I l é des Prés a h a le a c p s i C - v a l e s a . B V Presidence l t d d . n u e i e . r

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4 ★★ Musée Rodin. A short Métro ride will bring you to this peaceful museum, where the sculp- tor Auguste Rodin once had his stu- dio. Today his works are scattered inside and outside a somber 18th- century mansion of gray stone. The Full-Day Tours Full-Day Thinker perches pensively in the courtyard, while the lovers in Le Baiser kiss in perpetuity inside. There’s also a room devoted to the

The Best oft-overlooked works of Rodin’s tal- ented mistress, Camille Claudel. @ 1 hr. It’s rarely crowded, so it’s a good option when things are busy at the Louvre. Hôtel Biron, 79 rue de Varenne, 7th. y 01-44-18-61-10. www.musee-rodin.fr. Admission 6 ages 26 and over, 4.50 ages 18–25, free for children under 18. Apr–Sept Tues–Sun 9:30am–5:45pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sun 9:30am–4:45pm. Métro: Varenne or Invalides. RER: Invalides. 5 ★ Shopping at Le Bon Marché. If you haven’t found everything you hoped to yet, and Emile Zola’s novel The Ladies’ Paradise is you’re tired of walking from boutique based on Le Bon Marché and its founders, to boutique, do what the locals do the Boucicauts. and come to this swank department store. The “Balthazar” section is a men, and the “Theater of Beauty” is clutch of designer boutiques for one for the ladies. It’s all very Chanel, which may put some strains on the The Thinker, in the courtyard of the holiday budget. But it’s Paris’s oldest Musée Rodin. department store, and even the ele- vator is designer, so you should at least have a look. @ 2 hr. 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th. y 01-44-39-80-00. www. lebonmarche.fr. Mon–Sat 9:30am– 7pm. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone.

6 ★ Grande Epicerie. In a building connected to the Bon Marché, this grand food hall contains all the pâtés and cheeses your heart could desire. You can build yourself a gor- geous picnic, or take a seat in the excellent bar and restaurant and let someone else do all the work. y 01-44-39-81-00. www.lagrande epicerie.fr. $$ •