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Walking Tours the Central Paris Set

Walking Tours the Central Paris Set

Walking Tours The Central Set

Table of Contents Culture and History Stroll from Saint Germain to Notre Dame to Opera Walk Stroll from Saint Germain to the Louvre Walk from the Palais Royal to Pompidou Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th)

 28 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

5. St. Severin Church 6. St. Julien le Pauvre 7. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 8. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 9. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

10. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 11. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 12. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 13. Eglise Notre Dame 14. Square de Ile de - Memorial des Martyrs

2  2 29 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

15. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 16. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Ice Cream

3  3 30 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours vards we now see on the right bank. depending on how long you linger. Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-des- Arts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near and worth remembering for dinner. They are fa- Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. No- mous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s tice the statue of , an early leading a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Con- figure in the . tinue along St. André until you reach Blvd Saint- Michel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St. l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day Jacques. where no reservations are required for lunch, and a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it must. Head north towards the crossing the is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'An- famous — duck in for a look. cienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along The church began construction in the 11th century, Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th cen- take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce . tury. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the This is a lovely little back way stroll. angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is often thought of as the oldest church in Paris, 2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St. Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have new chocolate store, actually it's more a choco- music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Sea- late experience. Not only do they sell chocolates, sons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recom- pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a mend. Look for the schedules posted around chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails town and near the church itself. They also have and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagi- St. Germain and other notable churches. nation of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been making chocolate since 1948. Across the street, if you are here at night, there is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mail- Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Pro- letz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St. cope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79) where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recom- complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in mend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our the back. The basement has a café and more tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a down on the left. This passageway will lead you couple of glasses here. to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some Also on rue Galande, there is a special little cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50 terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as & 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have this is actually what Paris looked like before the found some charming tea cups in there and other architect Haussmann tore down these small goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule- 2  31 4 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julien- (on the weekends this bridge turns into a roller- le-Pauvre since 1928. blading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10. Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before — Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is sim- book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20). ply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is par- a great view from the roof. ticularly charming. Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de the Seine side through the lovely gardens and Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here take a much needed rest in the back garden, you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame the most unusual bookshops in the world, called is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as 11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de la impressive as the façade with its famed flying but- Bûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of tresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre books written about it but our favorite is Time Was Dame is a serene and moving that is a Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs 1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the — has done readings here. They still have poetry 200,000 Jewish people and others who were de- and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm. ported from France during the German occupation Check the website for details. Take a long look of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration around this place and you’ll find many surprises. camps. George has let struggling writers stay here over the years and you’ll see evidence — note the small Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to beds placed here and there. The place is open until Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de 11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54 folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop 02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor beer and some French fries or choucroute (the fa- — “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be mous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauer- angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a kraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame. rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the fa- mous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St. If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café -Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.) Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71) where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd your right, about half a block down the street past Henri IV and continue on into or go the park.

3  5 32 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back to your hotel or apartment for a much de- served rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point. 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 1. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 2. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard 3. St. Severin Church 4. St. Julien le Pauvre 5. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 6. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 7. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy 8. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 9. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 10. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 11. Eglise Notre Dame 12. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs 13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

4  33 Louvre to Opera Walk

JardinDES des

42 Louvre to Opera Walk

1. Louvre, 2. Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli

4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli 5. Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries 6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la 7. 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la Concorde* 9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli 10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon Jardin des Tuileries

11. , 228 rue de Rivoli 12. , 226 rue de Rivoli 13. Place Vendôme 14. Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme

43 Louvre to Opera Walk

15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou 16. , 1 place de l’Opera 17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des Capucines

18. Place de la 19. Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine 20. Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

44 Louvre to Opéra Walk

On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of the world. Look for interesting, frequently culture with a great selection of museums rotating exhibitions at each. to visit, including the world-famous Louvre. It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the Walk out of the museum and through the beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des museums listed, but this approximate 3 Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace hour walk will give you a good overview, so garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park you can decide where you’d like to return. was later opened to the public and designed And no tour is complete without some by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century. Parisian delicacies. Grab one of the iconic green chairs and position it for a prime view of the expansive Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue gardens and some great people watching. de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all are two more situated next to the Place de la 35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie highlights, themes or time periods to explore. (Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s The Louvre is one of the largest museums in water lily paintings, among other the world and dates back to the 12th century, impressionist work from the 19th and 20th when a fortress was needed to protect the centuries, including pieces by Cézanne, city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It Renoir, Picasso and Matisse. transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually into a museum in 1793. Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit tennis court, it now focuses on photography on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries. Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the exceptional location and view. 7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largest square and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue de the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a Rivoli) are three independently operated statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced museums, worth a visit for a look at the role with a , which was later used for of fashion, design and decorative arts in many notable names, including Louis XVI and industry and culture. The Musée des Arts . The 75-foot-tall golden- Décoratifs features decorative arts from the topped that you now see in the middle Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode of the square used to sit outside the et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was century to the present, and the Musée de la given as a gift to France from the viceroy of Publicité features advertising from around in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows the complex manner in which the 230-ton object was shipped to France. The featured

45 Louvre to Opéra Walk hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of which makes it an octagon. The Place pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th golden top was added by the government in century, and it has seen several statues come 1998. and go over the years, including a homage to ’s military prowess made from On the western edge of the Place de la Russian and Austrian canons captured during Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon the . This, too, was (10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent destroyed and re-created and stands in the home to the Count of Crillon. The first square today. The Place Vendôme is now traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909, home to many top-name jewelers and upscale and service has been continuous and near boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz perfection ever since. Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left decor and people, perhaps including a few you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli). celebrities. Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or *Closed for renovations until 2014. magazines written in English. Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé (5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou. (4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be York, where an avid patron loved the place so hard to leave without a shopping bag. much that he asked if the whole bar could be moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300 the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue whiskies, or have one of the white-coated de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin bartenders whip you up a New York specialty. restaurant of the same name. If your budget does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have When you arrive at the major intersection a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your Starck–designed dining area, resembling an next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de opulent room at Versailles. l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of this magnificent building, which was the most For something more casual but still beautiful, expensive built during the Second Empire, go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece. Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate, The chandelier in the center of the theatre and try picking just one decadent sweet to was designed by Charles Garnier himself and accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and been around for over a century. crystal accoutrements. The brilliant multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place depicts a different story from a different Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious opera. If you can’t get tickets to a squares, though it actually has eight sides, performance but would like to see the inside

46 Louvre to Opéra Walk of the building, the Palais Garnier offers well- executed tours of the breathtaking venue.

Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard Points of Interest Addresses des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a 1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or 2. Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 60 bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables 4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli like Oscar Wilde and once 5. Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries did. 6. Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde 7. Place de la Concorde Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll 9. W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli find a food mecca. Head to your right and 10. Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon you’ll come to the first of two separate 11. Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 10 buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la 12. Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 50 Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive 13. Place Vendôme seafood section, as well as a large offering of 14. Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a 15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou bakery, where you can either eat your 16. Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra delicacies or get them to go. The shop kitty- 17. Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines, corner has a full floor of sweets and savory 01 40 07 36 36 items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for 18. Place de la Madeleine friends or yourself. There’s also a café 19. Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated 20. Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine to wine below. 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard (21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon. Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh produce, desserts and wine. Buy something for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in the restaurant upstairs, which features the best of Hédiard’s products.

End your tour in the center of the plaza at the 21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806 Napoleon gave instructions to build a “Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall, there were delays that prevented the church from opening until 1842. Check the schedules to try and catch a concert in the traditional basilica.

47 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st)

 1 48 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

1. and Boulevard St. Germain 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore

4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Laduree

5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette 6. 60 Rue de Seine – ’s former home

2  2 49 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

7. 8. The Louvre

9. Place de la Concorde - Hotel de Crillon*

3  *Closed for renovations until 2015 3 50 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

back in the day and is still very popular with This tour takes between 1 and 3 hours tourists and Parisians alike. Continue on to- depending on how much time you spend in wards the Seine on rue de Seine stopping as the Louvre. (Can be done day or night, you like in the galleries. Take note of 6. 60 although some places are not open at night rue de Seine where Simone de Beau- of course.) voir lived. She was a brilliant French philoso- pher and feminist. Which is back down south on rue de Seine a few blocks. Begin at 1. Rue Bonaparte and Blvd St. Also notice the old photo shop near the end of rue Germain across from Église St. Germain (one of de Seine, Roger-Viollet on your left as you ap- the oldest churches in Paris and worth a look). Clos- proach the river, which has been selling photos of Paris and other places since the early 1900s. Cross est metro stop is Odeon. the street just after rue Mazarine and go through the You will be next to the über-famous 2. Deux small porthole doorway. And voilà — you are in the square which is home to the spectacular Institut Magots café at 6 Pl. St. Germain-des-Prés, which de France created in 1795 and which encom- was the favored café of Jean-Paul Sartre and passes the Beaux-Arts and the Simone de Beauvoir. Some people love to go here Académie to say they did. We prefer 3. Café de Flore, at Française among other Academies. 172 Blvd. St. Germain next door but in general both After you are done taking pictures of the Institut are overpriced and the waiters can be less than with its marvelous gold dome, cross the street friendly. walking across the 7. Pont des Arts pedes- trian bridge. This is our favorite pedestrian Stroll on rue Bonaparte towards the Seine pass- bridge, which sees a lot of activity in the sum- ing Louis Vuitton on your left. Turn right on rue mer as people set up picnics with candelabras, Jacob. If you are already winded (God help you!) couscous and wine. It’s also a popular bridge you can stop into 4. Ladurée (located at 21 on New Year’s Eve where many Parisians con- rue Bonaparte) for lovely palmiers (elephant ears) gregate with their bottles of champagne be- or any other pastry and a cup of tea. This is a cause you can see the sparkling great place to buy a gift, as the boxes and pack- from here. Everyone wishes each other a aging are as delicious as the French pastries. “Bonne Année!” and if you are in Paris on New Ladurée has several other locations around Paris, Year’s, it’s a must! Enjoy the view as you pass including one on the Champs-Élysées as well as across and then enter one of the back en- another near the Madeleine. They are famous for trances to the square outside the Louvre, their macaroons. which will be right in front of you. Even at night you may go in this way. Continue along rue Jacob, which is a wonderful street chock-full of fabulous shops, antiques, and It’s fun to imagine that you’re coming home via bookstores. Turn left on rue de Seine. This street carriage to your palace after a ball, back in the is well known for its art galleries and the artist time of the Louis’. As you pass the small gar- hangout 5. La Palette at 43 rue de Seine. dens on either side and walk towards the foun- They serve breakfast and it’s always a good stop tain, imagine you’ll have to choose which of the for a drink. They have been here since 1902. As many rooms you might want to sleep in tonight. the name implies, it was frequented by painters 8. The Louvre is the largest museum in the

 42 51 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

world. Construction began in the 12th century artist who is still going strong into her late 90s. on the building and it was used back then as a She had to wait until she was quite old after her palace by François the 1st as well as the Sun husband and father had both died to be noticed King, Louis XIV. It did not become a museum by the international art establishment. Enjoy the until the early 1800s. After you have marveled at Tuileries at a casual pace — stop for a crêpe at this square inside the many exterior walls of the one of the stands. You’ll end at the Place de la Louvre, walk towards the archway to your left Concorde — where Marie Antoinette had her and pause for the dramatic view of the pyra- head chopped off. Don’t worry; they don’t do mide, then proceed through this archway and that kind of thing anymore in Paris. Go for a tea enjoy the larger square of the Louvre site. You or a glass of champagne at the 9. Hôtel de can enter the museum through the pyramide, Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. This is designed by I.M. Pei and opened in 1989. There the best hotel in Paris with a fabulous gift shop. was an uproar in Paris when it first opened, but You’ll be right near the metro stop Concorde right now most Parisians feel that the pyramide is a on the place. perfect marriage of the new with the old. It is especially beautiful when seen at night — the pyramide somehow makes the entire site more exciting and alive and with its shape echoes the ancient past as well as feeling quite modern even though it is now 20 years old. There are 35,000 works of art here so do not try and do it all. Pick one small area, enjoy that and be satis- fied. After your visit, stop for a bite at Café Points of Interest Addresses Marly, which faces the pyramide and is open every day for lunch and dinner. This is the best view of the pyramide and the Louvre in Paris. 1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain

If you have time and your feet aren’t aching yet — 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots continue straight on towards the small structure which is named the Arc de 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore Triomphe du Carrousel. [The vrai (real) Arc de 4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Ladurée Triomphe is a very long walk away at the end of the Champs-Élysées.] Straight ahead are the Tuil- 5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette eries Gardens. The famous garden architect, Le 6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s Nôtre, planned the Tuileries. There is a carnival former home here in the summer. The sculptures in the gardens 7. Pont des Arts are lovely — not far from the Arc. Note the large piece by Louise Bourgeois, a French artist who 8. 93 Rue Rivoli – The Louvre / Café Marly now lives in New York, of a large spider eerily titled Maman (mother). This is the same sculpture you 9. 10, Place de la Concorde – Hotel de Crillon will find at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain & the Tate Modern in London. Bourgeois is an important

 53 52 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

53 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

1. La Comédie Française, Place Colette 2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal 3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier 4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier

5. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, 6. , 5, rue de la Banque 7. La Bourse, , Place de la Bourse 8. Sentier District

54 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

9. Frenchie, 5-6, rue du Nil 10. 11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil 14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil 15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart 16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs 17. Rue Saint-Denis

18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour 19. Forum des Halles

20. Fontaine Stravinsky 21. , rue Saint- Martin 22. Place Georges Pompidou

55 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

On this walk, you’ll travel through parts of Exit onto rue de Montpensier and turn right, the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements as you then continue until the end of the street, meander through the royal gardens, where you’ll find a small but wonderful wine bar, 4. Verjus (47, rue de Montpensier). beautiful covered passageways, historic Enjoy a selection of seasonal small plates with churches and museums, with, of course, wines to match from a friendly and many wonderful spots at which to eat along knowledgeable American couple. Or reserve the way. Allow at least three hours to enjoy in advance for an exceptional full-course meal this tour at a leisurely pace. in the dining room upstairs.

The tour begins with Paris’s oldest theatre Exit on rue de Beaujolais and turn left onto company, the 1. Comédie Française (Place rue Vivienne and take a quick right onto rue Colette), which was founded in 1680. It des Petits Champs. Halfway down the street originally performed at the Odéon but moved on your left, you’ll see the beautiful 5. Galerie to this location, near the Palais Royal, in 1799. Vivienne (5, rue de la Banque), adjacent to Most major French actors have performed the Galerie Colbert. Walk on the gorgeous here and still do. Expect to see classics from mosaic tiles and feel yourself transported to , Molière, and Shakespeare. the 1800s, when these covered passageways were built. They were designed to protect Just across rue de Richelieu is the 2. Palais well-coiffed Parisienne shoppers from both Royal (Place du Palais Royal). The building the weather and carriage debris. You’ll find was originally created in 1634 for Cardinal every Parisian delight here, including books, Richelieu and then passed through several flowers, wine, a bistro and the pièce de royal families before it fell into ill repute in résistance, a Jean Paul Gaultier shop. the 19th century, with ladies doing some unladylike things. It was eventually burned After you walk all the way through Galerie down and restored by the current occupants, Vivienne, you’ll find yourself in front of the the Ministry of Culture and the Conseil d’Etat. 6. Bibliothèque Nationale (58, rue de Walking into the courtyard, you’ll see what Richelieu). Louis XIV originally housed may appear to be out-of-place columns of manuscripts here in the 1660s when the various sizes, but these were created in 1980 Louvre couldn’t take them. As more by Daniel Buren. documents were moved here, the library needed to expand. In addition to important Walking through the courtyard, away from papers, you can also find medals, coins and the Louvre, you’ll find the 3. Jardin du Palais antiques, but the library is currently Royal (6, rue de Montpensier), providing a undergoing a major renovation, so some nice oasis in the middle of the bustling city. areas might be closed during your visit. Grab a bench and enjoy some quiet time, or dive into some upscale shopping at the Continue right on rue de Richelieu until you surrounding the garden. From perfume to reach rue du Quatre Septembre, and then bags to designer clothes, you’ll find it all right turn right. Shortly on your left, you’ll see the here. 7. Bourse (Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse), Paris’s . Stock trading has had many homes throughout Paris,

56 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou including the Louvre and the Palais Royal, but beautiful enough, there are also croissants, it landed at this location in 1826. You can tour pastries, salads and Stohrer’s claim to fame, the Bourse with an advance reservation. the baba au rhum. Be sure to visit on an empty stomach. Continue down rue Réaumur. To the north of this street you’ll find the 8. Sentier district, There are many great spots to enjoy a glass of where much of the wholesale clothing wine or a bigger meal. The Montorgueil industry is based. While it’s not open to the classic 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles public, you can still wander through and see (28, rue Montorgueil) has a wonderful duck the reams of colorful cloth, ribbons and confit, and there’s the 19th-century literary accessories. hang 14. Au Rocher de Cancale (78, rue Montorgueil). Turning left on rue des Petits Carreaux and right on to the small alley of rue du Nil, you’ll Turn down rue Marie Stuart and you can see one of Paris’s top and toughest tickets in quench your thirst for great wine and tapas at town, the restaurant 9. Frenchie (5–6, rue du 15. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). At the Nil). A crowd starts forming outside before end of this street is the gorgeous 16. Passage 7 p.m. to find out if there are any day-of du Grand Cerf (8, rue Dussoubs). This bright cancellations. There will also be a line of passage was created in 1825 and used as a people directly opposite the restaurant, in point in the royal mail coach service. Now you front of its namesake wine bar, which is can find trendy designer and workmen’s equally as good, and where seats are on a shops selling unique and interesting personal first-come, first-served basis. and home items.

Head back to rue des Petits Carreaux and If you exit at the other end, you’ll be on make a left, following it until it turns into the 17. rue Saint-Denis. While this street’s pedestrian- and food-friendly 10. rue reputation has improved, you’ll still find Montorgueil. Enjoy all the specialty food ladies of the evening working here, as well as shops selling everything from fish to meat, other semi-seedy types around the neon-lit cheese and wine. Farther down the street, sex shops. there are some fun and funky clothing boutiques as well as interesting art and Turn right on rue Saint-Denis and move jewelry shops. quickly through the street, then make another right onto rue de Turbigo and follow it until Explore some of the side streets, like rue you dead-end at the behemoth construction Saint-Sauveur, where you can step into site that currently is . Before you 11. Experimental Cocktail Club (37, rue fully dive in, take a right on rue Saint-Sauveur), a hip, happening cocktail and walk until you come to the beautiful lounge, for some late-night fun. 18. Eglise Saint-Eustache (rue du Jour). Construction on the church began in 1532, Another notable stop along rue Montorgueil and it’s a mix of Gothic and Renaissance is 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer (51, rue styles. The church boasts an 8,000-pipe Montorgueil). Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest organ, and most Sundays you can catch a free pâtisserie in Paris. As if the decor wasn’t concert here.

57 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

Points of Interest Addresses Turning back to face the beast that is the 19. Forum des Halles, you’ll have to picture 1. La Comédie Française, Place Colette it as it once was—a bustling, commercial 2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal market selling food and produce to Paris’s big 3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier buyers. When the market was moved out of 4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 40 town to ease congestion, the area never quite 5. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque recovered. There’s a string of chain stores in 6. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu the massive, constructed mall, along with a 7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse complex web of transportation underground. 01 49 27 14 70 Most people avoid it by night, or even by day, 8. Sentier District but attempts are being made to restore the forum to a more consumer-friendly area. 9. Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19 Time will tell, though, if this lofty goal will be 10. Rue Montorgueil achieved. 11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil After crossing through the Forum des Halles, 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil, exit on rue Berger and turn left, walking 01 42 33 36 19 toward the Centre Georges Pompidou, but 14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil, before going in, admire the 20. Fontaine 01 42 33 50 29 Stravinsky behind it. The collection of playful 15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, 09 82 55 00 49 water decorations sprays, squirts and 16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs delights those heading into the Pompidou. 17. Rue Saint-Denis 18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour You can see the exterior of the 21. Centre 19. Forum des Halles Pompidou (rue Saint-Martin) from many 20. Fontaine Stravinsky places throughout Paris, given its bold, bright 21. Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-Martin primary colors and “inside-out” architecture 22. Place Georges Pompidou featuring large pipes and tubes protruding from the building. The Centre Pompidou, aka Beaubourg, was designed by architects Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco Franchini and is home to the largest modern- art collection in . It was built in 1977 and is a unique, vast building with five stories of art and panoramic views from the top. Many notable exhibitions rotate through the temporary spaces, so check the schedule to plan your visit.

As you leave the building, join the masses in the 22. Place Georges Pompidou to watch street performers, artists and tourists enjoy the activity and sights in this bustling square.

58 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

59 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

1. headquarters, 3, avenue , 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e

3. Christian , 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e

6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e

60 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er

9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was films to be shot on location in the city and showcases the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. some less well known areas. This walk will take you past Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th the rest is history. Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. Givenchy. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau . Take building is not open to the public. the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel cross the road. Walk up to 1. Givenchy Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 headquarters, at No. 3. avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. . The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene This was the site of the first meeting between the young Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey enter the store). 61 Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will the supposed location of the room where William Holden pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. written an entire book on the subject of the little black Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, Didier Ludot sells vintage —check to see if is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the comeuppance. French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of can also explore: Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is 12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue , 1er: this is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. the restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audrey You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past have a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel) the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art 13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant and Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is Audrey spend time here in Charade (it is called the 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach gets Hôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes were very friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. filmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro: Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in Censier‐Daubenton) case you want a souvenir. 14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is the Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. emptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at the Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. beginning of Charade. (Metro: ) 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place 15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann, Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see 8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐ the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15. Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors, The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil) which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his 16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e: E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of the palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles. nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night (Metro: Trocadéro) in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where 17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usually Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the stayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber) magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . . Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for Points of interest addresses: refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic 1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e shopping arcades. 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in front 9. Palais Royal, 1er of you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er 62

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