Highlights of a Fascinating City
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PARIS HIGHLIGHTS OF A FASCINATING C ITY “Paris is always that monstrous marvel, that amazing assem- blage of activities, of schemes, of thoughts; the city of a hundred thousand tales, the head of the universe.” Balzac’s description is as apt today as it was when he penned it. The city has featured in many songs, it is the atmospheric setting for countless films and novels and the focal point of the French chanson, and for many it will always be the “city of love”. And often it’s love at first sight. Whether you’re sipping a café crème or a glass of wine in a street café in the lively Quartier Latin, taking in the breathtaking pano- ramic view across the city from Sacré-Coeur, enjoying a romantic boat trip on the Seine, taking a relaxed stroll through the Jardin du Luxembourg or appreciating great works of art in the muse- ums – few will be able to resist the charm of the French capital. THE PARIS BOOK invites you on a fascinating journey around the city, revealing its many different facets in superb colour photo- graphs and informative texts. Fold-out panoramic photographs present spectacular views of this metropolis, a major stronghold of culture, intellect and savoir-vivre that has always attracted many artists and scholars, adventurers and those with a zest for life. Page after page, readers will discover new views of the high- lights of the city, which Hemingway called “a moveable feast”. UK£ 20 / US$ 29,95 / € 24,95 ISBN 978-3-95504-264-6 THE PARIS BOOK THE PARIS BOOK 2 THE PARIS BOOK 3 THE PARIS BOOK 4 THE PARIS BOOK 5 THE PARIS BOOK 6 THE PARIS BOOK 7 THE PARIS BOOK 8 THE PARIS BOOK 9 ABOUT THIS BOOK Paris: the City of Light and Love. The French capital eries, the magnificent bridges and of course the has been praised in song, served as a backdrop for Eiffel Tower invite visitors to take memorable strolls films and plays, and inspired novels and plays more and experience the history and tradition. The than perhaps any other city in the world. The historic masterpieces in the Louvre set not only experts in center of Paris includes the banks of the Seine be- raptures; the Centre Pompidou is also a cultural tween Pont de Sully and Pont d’Iéna as well as its magnet at the heart of a lively scene. In the Musée magnificent monuments, all of which are featured in Orsay you can admire a world-famous collection of the UNESCO World Heritage List. Notre-Dame on Impressionist paintings; in the Musée Rodin you the Île de la Cité, the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuil- will be fascinated by the impressive sculptures of 10 ABOUT THIS BOOK Auguste Rodin. Elegant squares and broad avenues Paris claims to be the most French of all the cities in as well as romantic districts like Le Marais and the France. At the same time it is the most international From the original settlement on the Île de Quartier Latin, the historic university district, form of all French cities – not only because of the many la Cité, the city on the Seine grew to become a the extremes in this expanding political, economic visitors who come here each year, but because Par- vast urban entity. “Province remains province; and cultural arena. And yet, the individual districts is, as a center of culture, intellect and lifestyle has it makes itself ridiculous when it attempts to can still be conveniently explored on foot. When your always attracted countless artists, scholars and imitate Paris,” observed Honoré de Balzac. feet ache from all the walking, you can take refuge in anyone hungry for a taste of life from another part of Even back in his day, it was here, in the heart the Métro, for it is said that no point in Paris lies the world. of France, that you could feel the pulse of the further than 500 meters from one of its stations. “Grande Nation”. 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS “Nobody should presume to have a firm opinion ÎLE DE LA CITÉ, ÎLE SAINT-LOUIS, Jardin des Tuileries 68 about life, love or literature before visiting RIVE DROITE 14 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 70 Paris…” Rue de Rivoli 72 Île Saint-Louis, Île de la Cité 16 Palais Royal 74 (Djuna Barnes) The river, the goddess and its (beach) The Métro: An excursion into the Paris lovers 18 underworld 76 Above: Place Georges Pompidou Notre-Dame de Paris 20 Banque de France, Place des Victoires 78 Victor Hugo and The Hunchback of Bibliothèque Nationale de France: Previous pages: Notre-Dame 22 Site Richelieu 80 1 The star of the Louvre: “the” Mona Lisa Sainte-Chapelle 24 Palais de la Bourse/Palais Brongniart 82 2/3 The “star” of the city: the Eiffel Tower Conciergerie 26 Place Vendôme 84 4/5 Rue Édouard Quénou in the Quartier Hôtel de Ville 28 Diamonds are a girl’s best friend 86 Latin Marais 30 La Madeleine 88 6/7 Rue Norvins in Montmartre, with a The secret capital of European Jews 32 Fauchon 90 view of Sacré-Cœur Aristocratic city palaces in Le Marais 34 Opéra Garnier 92 8/9 La Défense: high-rising new buildings Place de la Bastille 36 Napoléon III, Baron Haussmann and the and Mitterand’s cube, La Grande Arche “Born free”: The French Revolution 38 redevelopment of Paris 94 Opéra Bastille 40 Printemps 96 Amélie and the others: Paris on the Galeries Lafayette 98 big screen 42 Paris arcades: “A stroll through the living Place des Vosges 44 room” 100 The (starry) skies above Paris 46 Faubourg Saint-Honoré 102 Musée Picasso 48 Très chic: Paris fashion 104 Musée des Arts et Métiers 50 Palais de l’Élysée 106 Centre Pompidou 52 Grand Palais 108 Forum des Halles 54 Petit Palais 110 Saint-Eustache 56 Pont Alexandre III 112 Le Louvre 58 Place de la Concorde 114 Masterpieces of the Louvre 64 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe 120 The secret of the Mona Lisa 66 Palais de Chaillot, Jardins du Trocadéro 122 12 TABLE OF CONTENTS Palais de Tokyo/Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville Ahead of its time: “The Impressionist Eye” 168 Bibliothèque Nationale de France: de Paris (MAM) 124 Palais Bourbon 170 Site François Mitterrand 220 Musée Rodin 172 Mitterrand and his buildings 222 Hôtel and Dôme des Invalides 174 RIVE GAUCHE 126 Emperor of the French: Napoléon Bonaparte 176 The Eiffel Tower 178 ÎLE-DE-FRANCE 224 Jardin des Plantes 128 At the top in his time: Gustave Eiffel 184 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle 130 École Militaire 186 Basilique Saint-Denis 226 Institut du Monde Arabe, Mosquée de Paris 132 Musée du Quai Branly 188 Chantilly 228 The Sorbonne: Over 750 years of European The Paris World Expos 190 Malmaison 230 intellectualism 134 Île aux Cygnes 192 Louis XIV: “The Sun King” 232 Panthéon 136 Prototype of an absolute residence: Literature in the Quartier Latin: Château de Versailles 234 Shakespeare & Company 138 BEYOND THE CENTER 194 Parc de Versailles 240 Palais du Luxembourg 144 André Le Nôtre and the “Jardin Jardin du Luxembourg 146 Bois de Boulogne 196 à la française” 242 Saint-Sulpice 148 Paris train stations 198 Bois de Vincennes, Château de Vincennes 244 Everything the heart desires: La Défense 200 Disneyland Paris 246 Paris markets 150 Legendary Montmartre 202 Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte 248 Cimetière du Montparnasse 152 Sacré-Cœur 204 Château und Parc de Fontainebleau 250 The “other” couple: Jean-Paul Sartre and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec: Chronicler Warlord and patron of the arts: François I 252 Simone de Beauvoir 154 of Paris society 206 A question of attitude: Le Bistro 156 Of habitués, trendy districts and longings 208 Boulevard Saint-Germain 158 Saint-Ouen 210 Index 254 Chanson d’Amour: Bringing the soul to life 160 Canal Saint-Martin 212 Photo Credit, Imprint 256 The Institut de France and the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise 214 “immortals” 162 Édith Piaf: The “Little Sparrow” 216 Musée d’Orsay 164 Parc de la Villette 218 Heralds of the modern age: Paul Gauguin, Vincent van Gogh 166 13 ÎLE DE LA CITÉ, ÎLE SAINT-L OUIS, RIVE DROITE Two islands on the River Seine – the Île de la Cité Ages made the Île de la Cité the undisputed focal and Île Saint-Louis – form the heart of Paris. The point of political and religious power. Today, the Celtic Parisii people settled here around 300 BC, Right Bank (Rive Droite) is home to the Élysée and remained until the Romans came and took over Palace, official residence of the French president, the area. Construction of a royal palace and the as well as the Champs-Élysées, with its elegant Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris in the Middle boutiques and upscale clientele. 14 ÎLE DE LA CITÉ, ÎLE SAINT-LOUIS, RIVE DROITE This early evening view from the Centre Pompidou takes in the illuminated city center and the eastern end of the Île de la Cité, with the majestic Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. The island is connected to the smaller Île Saint-Louis by the Pont Saint-Louis. ÎLE DE LA CITÉ, ÎLE SAINT-LOUIS, RIVE DROITE 15 ÎLE SAINT-LOUIS, ÎLE DE LA CITÉ Originally, there were three islands in the River 18th centuries. In the mid-19th century, the poet Seine, which flows through the heart of Paris. The Charles Baudelaire wrote his weighty volume two smaller islands – the Île aux Vaches and the “Les fleurs du mal” (Flowers of Evil) in the Hôtel Île Notre-Dame – were connected in 1614, and in de Lauzun here.