’ CLOSE -UP OF NAPOLE ON S TOMB

C o n te n ts

I ntroduction E arly Days in Paris The French Revolution “ ” M adame Guillotine Plac e du Carrousel

A Treasure ! ouse

The Belfry Tower Tomb of Napoleon

The Unknown Dea d

Old Bridges and New

“ An Arch of Triumph The Latin ! uarter A Gall ery of Art

The E iflel Tower

A Famous Chateau Theaters and ! otels M oney and Postage On the Battlefields Rheims and Verdun Other Trips

Seven

Fo re wo rd

INCE warships flying the American flag h ave made the world of waters their cruising grounds and since they carry with a them scores of thous nds of seagoing Americans , the per a son l interest of the Nation in ports , far and near , is ever

increasing in recent years . In order to furnish valu able information to officers an d a i enlisted men of the N vy who vis t these ports , the Bureau of Navigation is prep aring individual guidebooks on the principal ports of the world . Al though every effort has been ma de to include a ccura te informa ' on a a tion the most import nt subj ects connected with this port , it is re lized that some important facts m ay have been omitted and that certain m a a i details y be inaccur a te . Any inform tion concerning omiss ons or

E di .t or Bur eau av i ation will inaccuracies addressed to Guidebook , of N g , be appreci a ted . The informa tion will be incorpor a ted into revised editions . Acknowledgment is ma de to the National Geographic Society for a d a its suggestions , both as to editori l policy and the interesting et ils an d n concerning Paris its enviro s . Acknowledgment is ma de to Underwood Underwood and Pub ’ S a hi lishers Photo ervice for photographs cont ined in t s guidebook , r which photog aphs are copyrighted .

Ni ne

I n t ro d uc ti o n

ARTI AL fi a music , sound of trumpets , long les of be rded a a men in horizon blue , an eager G llic l ugh , an imperious ’ u a gest re , group of mam selles dressed in the latest a f shion , a polite bow , a glimpse of stately buildings ,

green trees , wide avenues , and boulevards , the tricolor — of — of blue , white , and red the spirit _ Freedom this is a a an d p rt of Fr nce , what is France is Paris . a a Fleecy clouds float overhe d in sea of blue , cathedral bells

a a An an d - am n ring their noond y c ll of gelus , red cheeked g i s in smocks ‘ abandon their gam es an d run to their homes in response to another m ‘ call of porridge and ilk . A French marine and a sailor s troll t h along e street . They s alute an American Naval ofli cer . On the an corner by the church , old flower woman sells a nosegay of roses to a ff shop girl whose shabby dress shows that—she can ill a ord the price . The basket is still nearly filled with flow ers the sweet scent of them drifts m a through the air . The war sun shines down on the city ; waves of he t n rise from the pavement , except where the trees cast cooli g shadows on

E leven ' a L artist l a s the asph lt . In the atin Quarter the y his palette aside , a n a an d glances at the canvas heavy with oil p i ts , slips on his co t , walks é wi th hi s neighbor to the corner caf for a ch a t over a gl ass of red wine . The day wears on ; the avenues and boul ev ards become crowded

wi th the afternoon parade of carri ages and automobiles . A few brief ur ho s more , and the sun descends behind a hill of crimson clouds beyond S i the e ne . Twilight comes ; then night , and the theaters open . All

just a bit of life in Paris .

a You who h ve ever been to Paris , know ; — ” And you who have not been to P aris go !

Ruski n .

Twelve P A R I S

E ARLY DAYS IN PARIS Municipal progress w as h alted during the wars of the last of the Valois when the ARTS is fir st mentioned in ' literature in the Oommen c ity w as frequently besieged by inv ading a of rmies . taries Caesar , one of a Labi enus a n ! n whose gener ls , , Henry of N varre , crow ed i g of 15 89 a occupied a collection of France in , expended l rge sums in a u mud huts on an island of improving P ris , the work being contin ed ‘ S in . his s o L the e e The settle during the minority of n, ouis XIII , n L i me t composed the resi and also during the reign of ou s XIV . a ! dence of P risii , one of the numerous r a Mo e improvements were c rried out , a i n R ns . G ll c tribes co quered by the oma an d Paris continued to grow under t h e St . D n n an n e is i troduced Christi ity i to v arious rulers until the French Revolution w as L a Paris , then kno n uteti , in the third fi c aused a tempor ary re a ction . The rst , n . 50 6 , a ce tury In , Clovis fter he had a eon n “ N pol resumed the work of improvi g a a t S a defe ted the Germans oissons , m de a a a Paris , decor ting the c pit l with art e m . the city th capital of his kingdo tre asures brought from various other n a Charlemag e visited Paris sever l Europe a n countries during the N apoleonic an d times during the course of his reign , wars . fin n n n a ally , i the te th ce tury , Hugh C pet Paris again fell into disrepair after the a a ' made this city the c pit l of all France : so defeat of Napoleon , continuing until w as Paris divided into three parts during Louis Phillipe began to beautify the city — ’ dl es the L n n w as i L the Mid e Ag ati Quarter o again . It dur ng ouis Phillipe s S “ fi the left bank of the eine , the Ville on the reign that many of the forti cations

La a . a . right bank , and Cite on the isl nds round Paris were built or strengthened English troops occupied Paris during The French c api tal was still a city of e n enr V an d a s the r ig s , of H y Henry n rrow tortuous treets and rickety houses P A R I S

x 1 89 7 international e hibition was held in , P aris was considered the most beautiful

city in Europe . The siege of Paris by the Germans in 1 870—7 -1 caused some damage to the city , but the greater injury was wrought by the a rev olu vandalism of the Commun rds , or i i t on s ts of the period .

Pillage , bloodshed , and wanton de

struction followed the revolution . In Ma 1 87 1 y , , when the Government troops a of France began their advance into P ris ,

the Communards set fire to the city . Fortunately the blaze w as checked before

it had caused serious damage . Within two years Paris was back to

normal , and life was as gay as in the

flourishing days before the Revolution . D uring the World War , Paris was bombed by the German airplanes and shelled by long- distance guns ; but t h e total damage

was comparatively small . The Germans Paris Seen from the Rifle! Tower were h alted by the French only a few a fi when N poleon III ascended the throne . miles from Paris in the rst battle of the a a Under his administr tion m any public Marne , and in the second b ttle of the

and . buildings were erected , , when the Marne , by the Americans and French

Fourteen P A R I S

h .

THE FRENCH REVOLUTI ON 1 4 N THE morning of July , “ 1 789 , during the reign of Louis XVI and his A queen , Marie ntoinette , a rumor s read through Paris to t e effect that royalist regiments were marching on the city to

revent a threatened revolt of the people . pater another rumor spread . The citizens n were told that the Bastille , state Priso of Faubour Paris , was about to bombard the g

St . Antoine , a crowded residence district near by . — — The populace men and women flew to arms and marched on the B as tille which had become a hated symbol of royal oppression , as it had been used for years as a place of im risonment for those who disple ased the ing . The Bastille fell . Plac d l as ill Del aune e e a B t e The governor , y , and seven of his k guards were illed . The prisoners were rusty key was sent to George Washington liberated . They were carried through the by the contemporary Ameri can Minister wi l m 1s streets of Paris and dly acclai ed as to France , Thomas Paine , and now at

k . A i victims of the tyranny of ings fter Mount Ver—non . Very little rema ns of the wards the B astille was torn down . Bastille to day ; only ayfew scattered stones

Fifteen P A R I S

figure representing the Genius of Lib ” erty in gilt bronze . The storming of the Bastille by the Paris mob m arked the beginning of the R French evolution , which brought a reign i of terror to France . It was not unt l s everal years later that comparative tran quillity was to come to France through the D formation of the irectoire , the govern ment established by the Constitution of 1 D w a the year 795 . The irectoire s soon to w a be overthro n by N poleon , who led the French n a tion throu h additional ye ars of i str fe , until the batt e of Waterloo , when the Bonaparte power w as broken by the

allied armies of Europe . MADAME GUILLOTI NE N THE Rue Royale 111 Paris is the Pla ce de l a Place de la Concorde a hi s Concorde , famous in th e p avement outline the spot where the t ori c al spot of the French

a . towers stood in the d ays of the revolution . c pital It was here in ll 1 793 In the center of the Place de la Basti e , on the south side n ill a stands the Colon e de Ju et , a t ll shaft of the square where a erected in honor of the vi ctims of the bronze fountain now

l 1 830 . z mn L ui llo revolt of Ju y , The bron e colu , stands , that ouis XVI was g

1 50 w wi i . sa over feet high , is cro ned by a nged t ned In October of the me year

Sixteen P A R I S

Marie Antoinette met a similar death in r l the s a re place . ” Dur g the reign of terror a scaffold erected :in the Place de la Concorde w as used by the revolutioni sts for the execu D tion of some — persons . uring thi s period the fish wives of P aris would ni gather around the guillotine , their k t tin g needles clicking time to the thud of the he a ds as they dropped in the bloody a hi b sket beside the knife , w le the tum brils a , or prison carts , r ttled through the streets bringing more of the condemned to t h e pla ce of execution . “ a Mad me Guillotine , as the ma in eo le a ch e was called by the p of P ris , n ac e il n was invented by Joseph g Gu loti , a a a a physici n . It is s id th t the inventor himself ultimately died bene a th the knife of his own invention . The Place de l a Concorde w as first L Champs E lysees called the Place ouis XV , and later the

R . Place de la evolution , but its present square In the center is an obelisk a a n me comes from the signing of the pe ce. brought from Egypt , where for centuries at a 1 74 8 i t a a a treaty Aix la Ch pelle in , b gu rded the g tew y to the temple of

W ar S L . S i which the of the Austrian ucces uxor The eine , touch ng the south

'

. fi re re S 1s at sion was ended Eight gures p side of the quare , crossed this a senting cities of France st nd in the point by the Pont de l a Concorde .

Seven teen P A R I S

1 71 8 was France . The palace , built in , restored durin the reign of Napoleon .

The Grand Pa ais and the Petit Palais ,

- fin e- now two arts galleries , also stand on

the Champs Elysees .

PLACE DU CARROUSEL

du hi E Carrousel , w ch derives its name from an equestrian ball given there by Louis XVI in 1 662 , is an open space between the Old Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe

du Carrousel . It was u mi a traversed , ntil the ddle of the l st

century b y a maze of narrow streets . Removal of the houses was begun by Louis

Phi llipe . The improvements continued a a under Napoleon III , who caused sp ce to be cleared for the New Louvr e . Lafayette Statue L A statue of afayette , designed by t The Champs Elysees , the Fifth Avenue Paul Bar lett , the American sculptor , a of P ris , runs west from the Place de la and presented to France by the school

. a a c afe hi U i S Concorde M ny g rden s are located c ldren of the n ted tates , stands in

a a . on the Avenue , and also the P l is he square Near the statue is an arch ’ l E l sée imil ar S R de y , residence of the President of , to that of everus in ome , but

E ighteen P A R I S

a r ised in memory. of Napoleon . The ’ St . a a l n e horses of M rk s C thedral Venic , h w ich stood on the arch at one time , have si nce been returned to Venice . The squ are i s inclosed on the north an d south sides by wi ngs connecting the P ala ce of the

Tuileries with the Louvre . The gardens of the Tuileries a dj oin a the Pl ce de la Concorde on the e ast . It w as a here that C therine de Medici , widow r a of Hen y II , built the royal p lace L ui the Tuileries , last refuge of o s XVI and his faniily before their downf all . Napoleon lived in the Tuileries dur ing a a portion of his c reer . The p alace w as almost entirely demolished by the Com mun ard s in 1 87 1 during the Revolution prelimin ary to the est ablishment of the

Thi r d R epublic . Another f amous square is the Place Rue a Place Ven o e Vendome , south on the de la P ix , d m or the Street of Peace . The principal copied from the Traj an Column feature of the Place Vendome 1 s the R . a 1 40 ome The base , m de from cannon Vendome Column , feet high , sur a u a a c pt red from the Austri ns , is decor ted mounted by a statue of Napoleon in a — R a b as a i om n toga . The statue w as erected m with reliefs illustr t ng scenes of the 1 806 in commemoration of victories over c amp aign in which Napoleon defe ated the a u the Prussi ns d ring the previous year . armies of Austria .

N in eteen P A R I S

A TREASURE HOUSE TRS i T the home of k ngs , and then a repository for some of the most famous a art tre sures in the world , a L the P lace of the ouvre ,

in Paris , is celebrated not only for the be auty of its

architecture , but for its n a precious collections of painti gs , dr w n and a i gs , ntiques . The Louvre was begun by Phillipe ! n a i Augustus , i g of Fr nce , in the th r t een th an d c ons t ruc century , the work of a n tion was continued by Ch rles V , Fra cis L N a I , ouis XVI , and other rulers . p oleon I expended over 3 6 million francs on the p ala ce which occupies three times i as much space as the Vat can . The task w as completed by Napoleon III , who The Louvre j oined the Palace of the Louvr e and the

Tuileries . l a i corners of the world . All civi iz t on , Th e n n a a n n i s ki gs of Fra ce h ve f lle , a d from ancient to modern , represented m L a a n i the ouvre is no longer an abode of roy the galleries by thous nds of p i t ngs , a ai n fi a . lty ; but it cont ns somethi g in nitely sculptures , potteries , and dr wings — more precious from the Am eric an point The Louvre houses the l argest c o llec — in a art i a in of view tre sures of from the four t on of p intings the world , including

P A R I S

to the guillotine , and met the death he D had dealt out to anton , Hebert , and a other Revolution ry leaders .

THE BELFRY TOWER

NE of the most f amous bel fry towers on the conti nent of Europe rises above the Cathedral of D a - N o t r e— m e , wh o s e stained glass. w i n d o w s and majestic archit ec

ture , conceived and exe o m uted in medieval ti es , are a boast of

modern Paris . The view from the belfry or south

tower , and its companion , the north tower , is one of the finest in the city ; and the traveler should consider his visit in Paris as being incomplete until he has ascended the winding stone ste s and viewed in this fashion the capita of France . Notre Dame de Pari s In th—e belfry tower han s the re at - - D power , made it the scene of his reign of Bourdon de Notre ame , the ell of _ otre D terror . Robes i erre attempted suicide by ame whose mass of metal has thun dered sh ooting him s e f in the j aw after his fall forth the golden news of victory by France

o a d . fr m gr ce ; but he was captured , ta on land and sea for hun reds of years

Tw enty T wo P A R I S

a The bell , wei hing ne rly g a pound—s , is one o the l rgest in the world an d the sweetness of its tone is a “ ” a . a wondrous thing to he r The cl pper , ! a weighing ne rly half a ton , only consents to touch the inner s urface of the bell when eight stron g men put their weight ag ains it ; and as the heavy tongue strikes t h bell and a volume of sound rises and be ats

’ ears of ag ainst the the ringers , the scowl ing g argoyles along the b alustrades of the tower seem almost to prick up their pointed stone ears in silent approval of

the music . The birds which nest around the cathedral have never become accus t m e o d to the sound and , when the clapper a win is sent into action , the be t of their s as they skim startled through the air adds a throbbing minor note to the music of the

bell . a a D The C thedr l of Notre ame , of

r . S u cou se , has its history everal ch rches have stood on the s ame spot . When one Notre Dame from the Rear w as a destroyed , another rose in its pl ce , a a a r much as the f bled phoenix appe red temple of Jupiter . It l te held the a a . n from the shes of former self foundatio s of two churches , dedicated to

n St . S . During the days of Roman rulership the Virgi and tephen , respectively the cathedral ground was the site of a The firs t stone of the present cathedral

Twen ty Three P A R I S

S Queen of cots , was married to the dau L phin in the cathedral . ater the edifice was utilized as a Temple of Reason by the red capped revolutionists . A few years later Napoleon was crowned Emperor of Fran ce l n Notre Dame and the walls of the cathedral s aw the diadem placed on the head of Josephine as N apoleon pro E cla imed her the mpress of his dominions . The facade of Notre Dame 1 s divid ed r by buttresses into th ee sections , three a stories high, and flanked by two squ re towers . he triple portal 1 s sur mounted ! by the Gallery of the ings of Judah , 3 0 where the rose window , over feet in An diameter , is located . open gallery with slender columns and pointed arches

forms the third story . 2 2 0 The towers , over feet in height , were to h ave been surmoun ted by lofty

a a . spires , but these h ve never been dded The north and south ort als were begun I nterior of Notre Dame un der the direction 0 Je an de Chelles m

a 1 1 63 1 2 5 7 . 1 47 w as was l id by Pope Alexander III , in , The steeple , feet high , a the work of construction continuing until reconstructed in 1 85 9 . The b ll sup r the thi teenth century . porting the cross is said to contain relics “ Henry IV assisted at the m ass th at w as of the true cross and fragments of the t o a a i and a wn the m ke him the ruler of P r s , M ry , cro of thorns which encircled

Twenty- Four P A R I S lacer ated head of Chr ist when he died on Mount alv ary . The sanctuary and the choir st alls are separatfd from the o ther aisles b ex t thic quisi ely carved railings . Rich o sculptures stand over the portals . The a a re re c rving over the centr l entrance , p , “ ” sentin 'th e L g g ast Jud ment , is compar “ ” able t d the Last fudgm ent on the th e a 3 7 Madeleine . In c thedral there are

a s. ch pel containing _the tombs of many famous prelates of P aris . Another notable church in Paris is the

n St . a Madelei e , or Church of Mary Magd len , built in the style of a Roman temple . The church stands in the Pla ce de la n a d es Madeleine , adjoini g the Boulev rd ifi Capucines . This ed ce , begun in the L was d R reign of ouis XV , opene for oman 2 Catholic services in 1 84 . Destitute of n d s wi ow , the interior forms one vast nave with cupolas thr ough which the T M adelein light streams to illumin at e the paintings he e on walls and altars . The music at the violets turns the church into a kind of Madeleine is exceptionally delightful . a i i a a . Frequently there is a i cturesque flower P r s n par dise market outside the Madeleine an d th e A thi rd place of worship in P aris es ‘ fr agrant odor of freshl y cut roses pe ci ally worthy of notice is the Sainte

Twenty- Fi ve P A R I S

r are now in the Cathed al of Notre Dame . The Mass of the ! oly Ghost is celebrated i once a year in th s chur ch . Sainte Cha

pelle , a part of the Palace of Justice , stands on the ground occupied by an im r n a “ residence du i g the Rom n rule. risen d Conciergerie of the palace , a in whi ch Marie Antoinette and obes i pierre were imprisoned , still rema ns . The Conciergerie was parti ally burned R during the evolution , but the palace has e been restored and partly r buil t . Of 79 r the Catholic chu ches in Paris , the address of the one most convenient to the visitor may be obt ained from the

directory . The principal Protestant ’ : L Orat oire 1 45 churches are as follows , ’ S Le L Am e 7 R . aint Honore ; Foyer de ,

D Pent em ont 1 0 6 R . aval ; Eglise de , de

du S 5 R . Grenelle ; Eglise aint Esprit ,

R e 4 9 R . oquepine ; T mple de Passy , Cor

t ambert 4 6 Bd . ; Temple des Batignolles , T ical French Road n ar har res ’ yp e C t l E t oile 54 des Batignolles ; Temple de , a l r - é Ch pel e , a small chu ch of Gothic de Av . de la Grande Arm e ; Temple de s1 n . i r l 8 Bd . g Th s structu e was bui t by the Neuilly , Inkerman ; American

L r r all i a i 2 1 R . devout ouis IX as a estin place for Chu ch , denom n t ons , de Berri ; s a r f ! 2 5 c ed relics brought back rom the Cru American Church of the oly Trinity,

a 1 2 3 9 . l e . s des in The relics , incidental y, Av . G orge V

T wen ty- Si r P A R I S

THE TOMB OF NAPOLE ON NDER the Dome of the Invalides is the tomb of in Napoleon , the form of l ar e a circu crypt , whos granite walls are in scribed with marble re liefs representing the princip al victories of the e emperor . A design is l aid in th mosaic pavement of the crypt to form a laurel s wreath , bearing the names of variou battles in whi ch the armies of N apoleon participated . In the middl e of the pavement ri ses the red porphyry sarcophagus carved from a s1n gle mass of stone weighing hearl 70 tons . In the sarcophagus rests le ’ Napo on s body , brought to Paris from

St . Helena twenty ears after his death, y “ W l sh : I a in response to his _ desire th t my es repose on the banks of the Seine in m i o f e the dst the French peopl , whom I M on ar re rom Tower of o re Da e ” tm t f N t m e have loved so w ll . ’ The crypt also contains the sarc o pha French officer who shared Napoleon s

us a hf Dur r e e il . g of the f it ul co , killed at Baut captivity du ing his dr ary y ars of ex e 1 8 1 3 a a —b a e are e zen in ; and that of Bertr nd, In ne r y ch p ls the r mains of

Twenty-Seven P A R I S

’ a T! E ! D D N poleon s two brothers , and the heart UN NOWN EA ’ e wif of J rome s second e , Catherine . OT n n D n n l far from the Fo tai e The ome des I valides is a auxi iary D n n n Notre ame , i the Ile de part of the e tire Hotel des I valides , Cit e la , crouches a small whi ch stands on the Boulevard des Inva queer building whose very e . lid s , near the heights of Montmartre a earance i s ’ p forbidding , The great Soldiers Home was founded by — u o ih L n 1 6 7 1 g y , and g l o my ouis XIV i and restored under vivid contrast with the Napoleon I and Napoleon III . The Dome consists of a chapel surmounted by glorious atmosphere of the i cathedral . It s the P ari s morgue where a round tower which supports the gil t , — n n dome the top of which is over 3 00 feet the bodies of the u k own dead who have e e n p rish d in the river , or met their death in from the ground . The grou ds of the In l _ i dent ifi valides include many cour ts and gardens other ways , are he d for possible

n , n . contai ing numerous statues . Another cation but it is ot open to the public i i interesting feature of the institut on is the The bod es are frozen , then placed on a a museum containing specimens of ncient m rble slabs in the exposition room , n d hi i s a a modern weapons and armor . w ch kept at a temper ture of below

a s r n . i n i The P lai Bou bon , built as a palace freezi g The bodies are kept th s con — i i e for the Duchess of Bour bon in 1 72 2 an d d t on , if nec ssary , for two or three now the meeting place of the Chamber of montlis and are then buried i n one of the — n r d Deputies is a short distance north of the Paris cemeteries . Hu d eds of bo ies e Hot l des Invalides . The deputies are brought to the morgue every year , fi elected dire ctly by the people and serve many of them being identi ed by rela t i v es four ye ars at an annual sal ar of or friends , although the majority

a w as r . a ye r . It here that Presi ent Wil are bu ied , as they died , nameless 4 m a hi s i dr i 1 m de h storic ad ess outlin ng the Paris contains ce eteries , the most Le e plan for the ague of Nations . prominent being the C metery of Pere

Twenty - E ight

P A R I S

trian statue of Henry IV st ands on the

bridge . a a a o f R a Nichol s II , the l te Cz r ussi , laid the corner stone of the Pont Alexandre

III , which was built for the Exposition of 1 900 and named in honor of Alexandre a i III , who was instrument l in br ngin about an alliance between France an

Russia . Another f amous bri dge of P aris is the S Pont des Arts , which crosses the eine

near the Quartier St . Germain . This a bridge , erected during the e rly part of t r the last cen u y , is named after the “ ” a A new L P lace of rts , the ouvre . A a qu y , reaching from the Pont des Arts R a a i to the Pont oy l , furnishes moor ng ‘ place for boats which s ail to P ari s from

the sea . The notorious Tour de Neale , which once stood on the other side of the

bridge , is said by tradition to have been Pent Al exandre I I I the scene of many cold - blooded murders n i u duri g the l fe of Margaret of Burg ndy , restore d again and again since it w as first L wife of ouis IX . in fif e ur . completed the teenth c nt y It - Among other well known bridges in i é ’ connects the upper po nt of Ile de la Cit d Aust erli t z Paris are the Ponts , de with both sides of the Seine affording an a , C rrousel , National , de la Concorde , des i L vre . l a R . excellent v ew of the ou An eques Inva ides , Marabe u , and oyal

Thi rty P A R I S

AN ARCH OF TRI UMP!

NE of the l argest trium h al arches in the wor d and without doubt the most famous—stands in ’ a e l E t oile the Pl c de , from which 1 2 wide ave a nues r diate , much as do

' the points of a st ar or Ar spokes of a wheel . Th e c de ’ e l E t oile Triomphe d , begun by Napoleon 1 806 m a in to co memor te his victories , was completed by Louis Phillipe in 1 836 at a cost of ne arly two million dollars . The arch is 1 64 feet high and 1 47 9 5 feet wide , measuring feet under the

“ keystone of the gre a t archway . Four sculptural groups rise from the four r square pillars . On the roof of the a ch are p anels bearing the n ames of the Re principal victories under the First Arc de Triomphe

n . T a public a d the Empire he n mes of a la a Ch mps Elysees , the Avenue de Gr nde generals taking part in the battles are é Da Arm e , the towers of Notre me , the . also inscribed on the arch S . eine , and the heights of Montmartre A spiral stairway ascends to the pla t The most opportune time to view the at a form the top of the arch , from which 0 1 from the rch is toward evening on leasan t mm the visitor has a magnificent view of a day in su er, when the sun

Thirty- One P A R I S

all the romance and mystery of Paris m a n see to be alive , and the im gi a tion weaves fant astic stories which are always in perfect harmony with the spirit of the c apital of France at the twilight hour .

From this arch of triumph can be seen ,

too , the Bois de Boulogne , the great a park of Paris , an extensive g rden of a over two thousand acres , embr cing two

Su r . lakes , c ieur and Inferieur The Bois de Bou ogne also contains the race Lon a course of ch mps , where thorough bred horses 0 Fr ance and other Euro ri pean count es are raced in the spring , a l ri n a summer , and f l months , the p cip l a a Ma races t king pl ce in April , y , and

September . ’ Th e ! oo Le d Acclim at ation , Jardin , is another attra ction of the Bois de Bou — legne and there are also numerous air a Ga a open rest urants , the Pre tel n

being one of the more popular . The

St . a suburbs of Cloud , P ssy , and Auteuil Bois de Boulogne are included in the bound aries of i n a a an d e is go ng dow , and the twilight sh dows the park . P ssy Auteuil are p pu are just beginnin g to l ay a soft mantle lar residenti al sections of the wealthy o f a o a a bl ck ver the w rm e rth . Then Parisians .

Thi rty Ti m P A R I S

THE LATIN ! UARTER N THE left bank of the Seine is one of the most interes ting sections of

Paris . It is the oldest rt of the city and is fliown as the La tin Quar

ter . Here students from all over the world eon gregat e to study and to observe the if quaint customs of its Bohemian l e . It is filled with disciples of all the arts both m asters and students . In the Latin Quarter the travelers may become acquainted with t he French tem perament more easily than in ot her sec e l tions of Paris , for an unusually d lightfu s irit of camaraderie prevails here—and e rov ided t Bohemian , he sees in the kin dreg r visitor a spi it , is very apt to take him to his he art o wi Cascade in the Bois dv Boulogne Not only d dilettantes , th the spirit of Bohemia deeply entrenched in their e vi ur r L te ts , ci l engineers , s geons , and other natu es , make the atin Quarter their men n ar professional . take pride in the fact place of reside ce , but le ne—d societies make their headquarters here and many that they received their education in the ” ffi r s arehi L . naval and army o cers , a ti ts , Quartier atin P A R I S.

a r personal , domestic, and spiritual aff i s , opens the floodgates of convers ation on

topics of literary , philosophical , and artis

t 1 c 1 nt eres ts . And the average Frenchman is more temperamental usually than the most hm temperamental American or Englis an . He does not hesitate to make a public demonstration of his emotions—whi ch he

expresses by means of kisses , tears , em

braces , and battalions of vivid words . Poli teness is a national char a cteristic hi s c of the French ; and, too , intelle tual i alertness is remarkable . Th s trait has caused intense hatreds between parties fin d and individuals in France , that full

expression during peace times ; but , when

France is at war , the intense patriotism

of her people keeps the nation together . In the matter of patriotism the French

and American people are alike , as indeed

they are alike in many other respects . These simil arities have done a great deal Latin ! uarter to aid the respective Governments in building 11 a lasting friendshi p between

hm L a S . Frenc an in the atin Qu rter , France an the United tates . as indeed in other p arts of Pari s and of The French are remarkably straight

France though not so effusive about hi s forward people . Thi s characteristic dis . P A R I S

r hi plays itself in thei arts , w ch sometimes o h re g to extremes , althoug they do not e as i mm gard th mselves be ng i oral , but ! ” sim—ply frank . There was never a more r t good natu ed , more pa ient people but at the same time they are brave to the ex armi tremes of heroism , as the—German es learned in the years 1 9 1 4 1 9 1 8 . But in discussing the temperament of e our the French , we are g tting away from e L i subj ct , which is the at n Quarter , back to the Quartier we must g o if ever to conclude our tour of Paris . Leaving City Island ! Ile de la Cit and going to the south side of the Seine

P ent St . way of Michel , the visi hi mself in the Latin Quarter . A short t walk down the Boulevard S . Michel m brings one to the Cluny Museu , one of the most interesting in all France . The il n e fi bu di g , rected in the fteenth century Paris Seen from the Louvre e by the B nedictine abbots of Cluny , is

hi hi ur . ai built on the Got c style of arc tect e industry , enamels , prints , st ned

On R . It stands the site of an ancient oman glass , and pottery Sor palace , the Thermes ! or baths! of which Just south of the museum is the n e —a are still standi g . The museum coll e bonne famous institution of learning tion includes Specimens of medieval art founded in 1 2 53 by Robert de Sorbon the P A R I S

1 885 1 900 rebuilt again between and , with the exception of the old chur ch whi ch e now serves as the tomb of Rich lieu .

” a The University of Paris , ne r the L vr Se ou e on the left bank—of the ine , com fiv e prises academies letters , sciences , ar i ts , political econom cs , and the French

Academy . It is the ambition of every ’ French wr iter to belong to L Ac adémie ized Francaise , for then he is reco as one of the foremost devotees o the art of l - has bel es lettres . The French Academy — “ only 4 0 livin g members the Forty ” Immortals they are called .

GALLERY OF ART ! E fin est paintings of con temporary French artists are on exhi bition in the L Museum of uxembourg , a part of the Palace of the same name on the Boul e vard Palais du Luxem Palais de uxembourg L ur bo g , the main thor

L S oughf are of the Latin Quarter . confessor of ouis IX . The orbonne , . reconstructed by Cardinal Ri cheli eu l n Pictures on exhibition in the Museum r w as i L re to the seventeenth centu y , ent rely are usually sent to the ouv , or !

Thi rty - Six

P A R I S

r te Near by is the new Chu ch of S . Gene vi a e eve . The Jardin des Pl nt s , a com bined a zoological and bot nical garden , a a is located e st of the P ntheon .

T! E EIFFEL TOWER f l i Ei fe Tower , h ghest ur struct e in the world , standi ng in the Champ de

Mars , and a gathering place for tourists of all

nations , is probably the est kn own place of ih terest in the capital of

. 9 4 France The Tower is 8 feet high , more than 2 00 feet taller than the W0 0 1 C worth Building in New York ity, nearly twice as hi gh as t he Washin gton Monu h ment , and more than double the eight of the Great Pyramid of E gypt . Over a l T l f ll million dol ars was expended in its con emp e o Love, Versai es r hi e 1 st uction , w ch was complet d in 889 . e n n n f f normous amou t of mo ey i fees rom It is named for its designer , Gustav Ei fel . later visitors to the Tower . The admission fees almost paid for the During the war the Eiffel Tower was fir tower during the st year after it was us ed as a wireless and military observa the v rnm e a e i e built and Go e ent has clear d an tion station , rendering inv luable s rv c

Thirty- N ine P A R I S during the German air raids on the French capital and its suburbs . One may either climb to the top of the

Tower or ride in an elevator , but must pay a fee at the ha—lf - way landing and at the thir d platform very nearly at the peak of the structure . A FAMOUS CHATEAU E RSAI LLE S , formerly the residence of the kings of

France , is famous not only because of the his t ori c al events that have e tak n place there , but for the sur assing splendor of the bateau or Palace I nterior of Palace of Versailles ! Room in Which Peac e o ul a was Signed by Germany! gardens . The town , with a p p tion of over is located on a plateau together to build the royal palace and

r ll . su rounded by wooded hi s Versailles is eventually the elaborate gardens , and Ver “ crowded with historical associations . sailles became a perfect expression of ” e e Those of most int rest to visitors cent r beauty and royal splendor . Louis XV about the Chateau and its grounds . entrusted the architect Gabriel with the ai s a d Vers lle was hunting lodge during task of erecting new buil ings , among

L n . La the reign of ouis XIII , a d the—Chateau them the theater ter the revolution was constructed by Louis XIV le Roi ists drove Louis XVI from the Chate au . S Sun ! in a oleil , the The most cele N poleon attempted to restore the brat ed d a a a L architects of t e y were c P l ce , and ouis Phillipe , toward the

Forty P A R I S

a middle of the l st century , converted it into an historical museum , opening it to the public . Reliable guides for tours of

u d . the Chateau and the gro n s _are available The most interesting ro—om in the Chate au is the Galerie des Gla ces hall of mirrors where William I was crowned Emperor of a a a 1 8 1 87 1 an d Germ ny , J nu ry , , where the Germans signed the peace treaty on

n 2 8 1 9 1 9 . Ju e , Thus the Hall of Mirrors was the scene of the beginning and the end of the Germ an Empire .

THEATERS AND HOTELS

Theatre Fr ancais and the Opera are the two most popular theaters i n

Paris , the former being devoted to the present a

tion of French comedies , while the latter is devoted

to Opera . The Opera House on Boule v ard H—auss nn 1 8 64 1 874 ’ ma was built in the years Place de l Opera at a cost of over ten million dollars . It S a S covers three acres of land . Materials weden Finl nd , Italy , and pain , as well for its construction were brought from as from the Provinces of France . The

Forty- One P A R I S

in du a interior is rich decorative paintings an hardt , in Place Ch telet ; and Theatre

r 2 09 ur St . D . sculptu es , the number multiplied man Moliere , at Faubo g enis — ’ — ‘ Th fold in one s vision by a dazzling arra N ow for hotels . e choice of hotels is of mirrors . The st airc ase considered a in Paris is naturally a question of taste

. n a masterpiece of decoration and grouping and funds , i smuch as rices vary in ran ais The Theatre F c , adj acent to the roportion to the service , rom the small

R d pot els . Palais oyal Hotel , is a group of buil ings to the hotels de luxe designed un der the direction of Cardin al Comfortable rooms can be obtain ed in R a L Rue du ur — ichelieu , and l ter presented to ouis the Faubo g Montmartre , Fau Ru e S XIII . The theater was founded early in bourg Poissonniere , aint Honore , w Ru e R Rue S Ru e the seventeenth century , and its gro th de ichelieu , de eine , Bona and is connected with the name of Moliere parte , other sections , for prices rang “ the F ather of French Comedy . A few ing from four to fiv e francs a day . Rooms Ru e R in fi steps up the de ichelieu , at the the more expensive hotels , tted with “ Ru e corner of the Moliere , is the Fontaine every device of modern comfort and

“ by e 1 5 . Moliere , Vic nti , erected to the memory luxury , cost from francs a day up 1 m of the poet in 84 4 . The districts most highly recom ended Performances are given daily at all the are the boulevards from the F aubourg a nn a the ters of Paris , excepting the Opera Poisso iere to the M deline , the Avenue ’ S l O era Ru e R v , which—holds but four performances a de p , de i oli Faubourg aint _ on ! - t h week Mondays , Wednesdays , Fridays , onore , Champs Elysees , and the

S A n hf . and atur d ays . t the Theatre Francais neighbori g thoroug ares and the Odeon there is a special series of The American Y . M . C . A . is located ’ 1 2 Rue d A uesseau . A classical matinees on Thursdays . Among at g The merican — ’ a l n the princip l theaters—besides the three We fare Worker s Club , operated u der prev musly mentioned are the following : the auspices of the Y . W . C . A . and the O — r t 3 3 Ru e l , p era Comique , in Place Boie dieu ; Odeon , American Chu ch s ands at in n Place de l Odeon ; Theatre Sarah Bern Caumarti .

Forty Two P A R I S

MONEY AND POSTAGE IVE c entirn es in French money may be reckoned as equi valent to 1 cent i 5 0 Amer can money , cen m 1 0 ti es to cents , and 2 1 franc to 0 cents .

Copper; nickel , silver , and some gold coins are in circulation in Paris . The following table gives the approxim ate values of the coins in normal times : FRE NC! AM E RI CAN

SI LVE R

Belleau Wood

a a GOLD exch nge is const ntly fluctuating , the , visitors should ascertain the prevailing — — r ate . - a 5 0 and 1 0 0 L m a a t Forty fr nc , frane , franc etters y be sent from Fr nce o coin s re a . S S a a lso issued ince the the United t tes , or to other foreign

Forty Three P A R I S

ON THE BATTLEFIELDS UN E 1 9 1 8 N J , , when the German armies were n sweepi g toward Paris , crushing the allied armies

in their paths , or hurling

them back , even though they fought so desper y ately and heroicall , a handful of American marines and soldiers was rushed to the sector around Chateau Thierry . The vanguard of the gray- clad army came o n until the point of the attacking wedge struck the American lines . A

w . short , sharp struggle follo ed The Ger man forces started on their countermarch — toward the Rhine and the rest is history . The Y ankee soldiers and marines had a saved the day , as did the French e rlier ! — in the war , when General Von luck came Battlefield Chateau Thi erry m arching on Paris and was defeat ed by 2 5 “ ” countries , for centimes ; registered the taxicab army . 4 0 letters , centimes ; postal cards , of less And the Americans who visit France a fiv e 1 0 th n words , centimes ; and those c n ff i a _ a ord to leave w thout visit a fiv e 1 5 hardly of more th n words , centimes a — ing the battlefields of Chate u Thierry, N r I t i s o m St and ard exchange i s q uot ed . in i m ossible t an i a i n p o t cip t e fluct uat o s . Belleau Wood , and other points the

Forty- Four

P A R I S

st ayed at the very bot tom of the tower and watched the battle through a peri

scope . And ' the traveler may also visit the Ameri can military cemeteries where rest the gallant men who gave up their lives i on French soil dur ng the World W ar .

OTHER TRIPS I SI TORS having tim e in which to make a dditional trips in and aroun d Paris should see the palace of d ’ Fontainebleau , a ay s a ride from the c pital , a pl a ce of very great inter est from an historical

st andpoint . Fontainebleau is almost as prominent in the history of Fr ance as Fontain ebleau a w Vers illes , although not connected ith

3 04 i n nn s . a On Hill , the Argo e Fore t , such recent events The p lace was the

a —! L stands concrete tower its walls ex home of ouis XIII , Anne of Austria , 3 0 — in a n tending feet into the . earth which Cather e de Medici , M rie Antoi ette ,

as . served headquarters for the German Napoleon , and other rulers of France r n n i Th e r C ow Pri ce dur ng the Battle of Ver p alace is rich in art treasu es , fres

. C wn it s a a i a furn 1sh1n s dun The ro Prince , is coes , p int ngs , and ntique g ,

Forty - Sift: P A R I S

i n d a t ien al u t o contains lso some very rare Gobelin to rs of interest , including visits

.a est ries . ont ain ebleau S r St . S p The forest of F , evres , nea Cloud , where evres

1 rawlin h as a ereclam a r St . D p g about the chateau , alw ys p is manuf ctu ed ; —enis men a favorite wanderin ground for a short distance north of P aris whose ‘ t i t i e nn a 1r s s . Near by is the v lfag of Barbi history is co ected with that of Ch r zon i lem a ne Are , where l ved some of the greatest g , Joan of , and Napoleon F a o d rench p inters , including Millet , Corot , Pierref n s , with its gloomy fortress ; i nd . a a ac Troyon and Ch ntilly , f med chiefly for its r e In ad dition to the trips about Paris meets and chate au filled with historic i lread s . y described , there are many addi trea ures

- WA S! I N G T ON 2 GOVE RN M E N T P RI N T I N G OFF I C E I 1 92 0 Forty Seven

MEMORANDUM

“ ‘ The se blank pa ge s should be used t o note items of interest t o which you will want t o refer

Forty - N in e