University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln
Faculty Publications - Textiles, Merchandising Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, and Fashion Design Department of
April 1990
Challenging Patterns
Rose Marie Tondl University of Nebraska - Lincoln, [email protected]
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Tondl, Rose Marie, "Challenging Patterns" (1990). Faculty Publications - Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design. 17. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/textiles_facpub/17
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Western Wear
-. Textiles and clothing- :- - A- Project Planning and Evaluation Sheet
Name Age (Jan. 1) Year
Years in 4-H Name of Club
Signature of leader or parent
I plan to do From this activity, Comments: these activities: I learned:
Presentations or community service activities: by Rose Marie Tondl Extension Clothing Specialist
WHAT YOU'LL DO IN THIS guide as you select and work with bine patterns to get the look you PROJECT new and challenging patterns. want. Choose from the following or similar garments: In "Challenging Patterns" you PROJECT REQUIREMENTS can build on basic construction Pants/ skirt and shirt /blouse skills you learned in Sewing for To complete this project you with an optional vest. Fun and Clothing Level 1and should plan to: Simple suit (pant or skirt) with Clothing Level 2. You will practice a non-tailored jacket. A vest is new skills by working with more *Learn ten new skills each year optional. detailed and intricate pattern de- you participate in the project. The Dress - one- or two-piece signs. You will learn more about: 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Jumper and blouse Checklist is in the back of this Lounging wear - robe, "Wardrobe building manual. pajamas, night-shirt *Selecting challenging patterns "Make at least one complete Jumpsuit *Coordinating pattern and outfit each year that will include Western wear outfit fabric some of the new construction "Design elements - line, color, skills. "ACTION IDEA - Study more texture All ten new skills do not have to about design and fashion. Here are "Design principles - propor- be on the outfit you make. You can some ideas for a presentation. tion, balance, rhythm, empha- learn the other skills on additional sis and harmony outfits or by making samples. "Look into potential careers in *Face shapes - hair styles, *Model your outfit in your local fashion merchandising and design. necklines and accessories fashion revue. (Optional) *Study a period of fashion "Selecting accessories history in detail. "Serger sewing Select a challenging pattern and *Study various figure types and "Western wear fabric so you can practice the the lines, colors and designs that *Careers in textiles and clothing selected skills. Remember to try are most flattering for each. something new. *Study the psychology of color. Keep a record of your plans Look for construction detailing 'Study face shapes including using the Project Planning and or variations in: the selection of complimentary Evaluation Sheet. You may want to hairstyles and necklines. enroll in this project for a few collars cuffs fasteners *Compare the prices of home- years, learning more new skills hems necklines pockets sewn and ready-to-wear designs each year. Show others what you seams sleeves waistbands with similar fabric and construc- are learning by making a presenta- zippers yokes tion. tion, exhibiting at the fair and *Work out a buying guide for modeling in the fashion revue. Select a commercial pattern to your wardrobe plan. This project manual will be a make your outfit. You may com- Fashion is the current style or "ACTION IDEA - Look in stores, custom. Styles and customs have magazines, catalogs and newspapers changed through the years. for current fashion trends. Make a Wealth, occupation, climate, report at one of your club meetings. availability of materials and technology all have influenced fashion. KNOW YOURSELF Each season fashion designers and clothing manufacturers The pattern you choose should feature new silhouettes, design be flattering. Before you buy a lines and colors, hoping people pattern, take a good look at will buy these "newer" clothes to yourself. In a full-length mirror, add to their wardrobes. Some look at your: fqshion changes go in cycles, such as changing hemlines, variations in height face shape garment design and fit, and shoe weight hair style heights and shapes. body build and bone structure What we wear today is influ- personal coloring enced by fashion, availability and social riles. Social rules suggest Consider all of these when you what clothing is appropriate for choose patterns and fabric. All will specific occasions. These rules do contribute to the final design you "almost wearables" and add them change, but only slightly. create. to the chart. Recycle the "no longer For example, most brides and Review pattern selection, line wearables" into something differ- grooms still wear very special and color information from ent for yourself or a family mem- clothes at their weddings. Uni- Clothing Levels 1 and 2. Challeng- ber, or give them to church groups forms are still worn for many jobs ing Patterns includes more infor- or other charities that accept used or activities. mation about selecting the best clothing. The general rule of fashion pattern and fabric designs for you. After you know what you have, today is "be yourself." Look at make a plan for the clothes you what other people are wearing for WARDROBE BUILDING need or want. Sometimes it is school, work, dates or shopping. difficult to separate needs from Almost anything goes. It is the Having a carefully coordinated wants. individual who sets his/her own wardrobe is like having more As you decide: limits. We are influenced by clothes, because they can be factors such as comfort, income, interchanged. You will get the "Consider the activities or what our friends are wearing, and most for your time and money occasions in which you participate. how much time we want to spend when you buy or sew if you have a What clothes do you now have caring for clothes. wardrobe plan. that you can wear to those events? Clothing designs can be classi- Take inventory. Take all of the You may find you have too many fied as: clothes out of your closet and casual clothes and not enough drawers. dressy ones. What gaps do you casual chic Look at each article carefully need to fill? contemporary classic and put it into one of three groups: "Choose basic styles that can be dressy tailored dressed up or down for different *Wearable "Almost wearable occasions. Designs also can be clasgfied by "No longer wearable "Plan around one or two basic function such as: color groups. If most of your As you take inventory, put the clothing is in the same color school wear outdoor wear "wearablesffaway and record family, such as blue-navy or red- bedtime wear sportswear what you have on the wardrobe maroon-pink, you can do more formal wear active sportswear plan chart. Mend, clean or alter the mixing and matching. Dresses or Suits
Coats or Jackets
Sleep and Loungewear
Pants/ Skirts
Accessories *Use coordinates to extend your *Can you buy it ready-made in To learn more about buying wardrobe. Three sweaters and the color, fabric and design you ready-to-wear clothes take the three pairs of pants (or three want? project called Teens $hopping blouses and three skirts) can be "Will a ready-to-wear or a $mart. This project will help you interchanged to make nine outfits, home-sewn item fit into your get more for your money when if they all go together. clothing budget and wardrobe buying clothes. *Choose accessories to go with plan? Your wardrobe will probably be many different outfits. One pair of *Is the right fabric available for a mixture of ready-to-wear and shoes and one handbag can go home sewing? home-sewn clothing and accesso- with a number of outfits. One shirt *Are you skilled enough to ries. Make the best use of your and tie can be worn with several make the item successfully? time, energy, creativity and money suits and sport jackets. *Do you have the time to sew when making "buy or sew" *Avoid novelty or faddish the item? decisions. garments. Extreme designs usually *Do you enjoy being able to go out of style and may not be sew your own clothes? appropriate for many occasions. If . - -. -- - - .- - - . -. . . .- . .- . you do select one or two fad items, r---. 7 try not to spend much on them. *Decide how much time and money you are willing to spend taking care of your clothes. Do Should I SEW IT? or garments require ironing? Hand or machine washing? Line dry or dry flat? Dry-cleaning? *Keep your wardrobe plan up- to-date. Your plan will help you organize your spending, shop more effectively, resist impulse buying and meet your clothing needs.
BUY OR SEW?
After you have decided you need a specific item for your wardrobe, you must decide whether to sew it or buy it ready- made. Consider these points:
Selecting a pattern is one of the catalogs, match the pattern to your list to help you select new sewing first steps in making a garment. sewing skills. Be sure to read the techniques for each project. Select a design compatible with description on the pattern enve- When selecting a challenging your lifestyle and personality. If lope for construction and fit pattern, study the design and then you are an outdoors person that details. You may choose more than ask yourself: frowns on frills, select a pattern one pattern to make your outfit. *What construction details does with simple lines and little detail. When you use more than one it have? If casual describes your lifestyle, pattern, be sure that garment styles *Will it fit into my wardrobe select a pattern that has a loose fit. will look nice when worn together. plan? As you browse through the pattern Use the Construction Skills Check- *Is the pattern design appropri- To increase the bust area: 6237SD( SIZES IN ONE SIZF 8 10 12 14 16 18 ate for the purpose of the gar- Compare your bust measurement EUROPEAN SUI 16 11 10 41 44 46 "--..I 1CT 8" a1 8- 91 9- IUlrm WAIST 61 64 6- 71 -6 Ilrm men t? with the pattern's (allowing for HIPS IIc I8 92 97 102 lU7rm NAPETOWNST 10 40 S 41 1 41 42 S 4km *Is the silhouette compatible ease), and divide the amount of MEW 1 BLOUSE IIScm" 190 290 295 291 100 10om with my figure type and increase by the number of edges of I4ocm.. I 110 120 11 220 225m ISOon.1.. 205 105 2115 210 110 2 Ism Ih-rFBFAUNC personality? fabric on the side seams (usually Mk-2 n4c ore o4c o4c 04s n4cm VIEW 2 BLOUSE four). Place pattern on top of 2 I0 110 115 2 10 1 2 3Om IIJcm"14o"m-I.' 171 Im I80 I80 I85 1% SELECTING PATTERN SIZE waxed paper or tissue paper and I<&-.".. I hn I 65 I -0 I 71 180 I85m IhTEwAcmG trace using a marker. Indicate on (IOrm 0 30 0 30 0 I0 0 10 0 30 0 %Om SKIRT 90on" 1 50 3 511 I so I50 I50 I (om Pattern companies are doing a waxed paper the amount to be 1 I 4 141 34 4 l4lm IlScm'l"l *Several sizes in one pattern. armseye outline, stopping at top of VIEW 1 & 2 BLOUSL Conon. Conon M~xturn.Sdk. Crcpc dc Chlm and Spduno. SKIRT, Conon. Conon MIIN~CS.Solk. Ftnc Wool. Cr and *Flat, regular or full derriere in side seam. Keeping pattern in Spduno Allow crna fabnc for rnacchmg platdr or vnpcs 'worn~nlp. shadong. vtk or rrth a om-way. damn- "Without naD.. shadlna.-. ollc or wtth a wewar pants. place, move pivot pin to underarm "Built-in adjustment lines for where stitching lines cross and MEW I & 2 BLOUSL a& 13mm(Vr) bunom, nwo press sd.opnonal. onr paw of purchased lwkkr pa&. VIEW 2 BLOUSE. ognonal moor mm. SKIRT. bust and hip. pivot pattern so cutting line meets om 18anIr) up. nwo IOmm(W1 bunon,. 0.3OmIHy )of 8h(327 wldc *One-inch seam allowances for original waist outline. Trace line fit flexibility. between underarm and waist on envelope. It will suggest suitable waxed paper for your new seam. fabrics. It will also note when Patterns are sized for a B bra Repeat for back bodice pattern plaids, stripes and obvious diago- cup. To determine your correct piece. Unless you have a narrow nals are to be avoided. pattern size, measure your bust back with a full bust, you may add Some patterns have been and high bust. The bust is meas- fullness only to front bodice. designed for knits only. These ured across the fullest part of the patterns rely on the stretch of the bust. The high bust is measured COORDINATING PATTERN knit for part of the ease. Do not use across the back high up under the AND FABRIC "stretch knit only" patterns with arms and across the top of your woven fabric. The pattern enve- bust. A difference of two or more Selecting a pattern and fabric lope will include a "stretch knit" inches between the bust and high that go together is important. Read guide so you can check your fabric bust measurements means you are the information on the pattern choice. larger than a B cup bra size. In that envelope. Note the texture, weight case, use the high bust measure- and fabric design that were used. ment as your bust measurement. Depending on what type of fabric You will get a better fit at your is shown, you'll see how it would neckline and shoulders, but may look in a print, solid, stripe or have to enlarge the pattern in the plaid. Read "suggested fabric bust area. types" on the back of the pattern Increasing The Bust Area DESIGN ELEMENTS Vertical lines: Well-designed clothes have a C;e~ncrallvslenderize nncl pleasing combination of design lengthen. They may be prtducecl elements. The main elements of by finishd edges, such as long fabric design are line, texture and lapels, seamlint~s,V-ncxcklines, color. vertical pleats, tucks, folds, butt011 and zipper opel~ings,a row of LINES AND YOU buttons, cxtc. Silhouette and line are basic in selecting a pattern that is right for you. The shape of the outer lines of a garment is the silhouette. It is the first thing you notice. Three basic Horizontal lines: silhouettes are the bell, tubular, and back-fullness or bustle. Within C;cr~erallvbroadtxn and shorten. the silhouette are structural and They occur as finishd edges and decorative lines. Structural lines, scam lines at the. yoke, hip and formed by seams and darts, give a hem. 1-ook for horizontal 1inc.s in garment shape and help form the pocket flaps, cuffs, bowtitls, silhouette. double- breastcxi closures, etc. Diagonal lines: Bell Tubular Bustle Suggest n~otion;can incrense or decreastx width and height dcx- A14 pending on directio~~of the angle. Ilecorativc lines are found in These lines may occur 011 Iapt~ls, the fabric design or texture, or can panels, inserts, seamlines nnd be created by trim, accessories or finished edges. stitching. Within the silhouette, your eye tends to follow lines up, down, around and across. Lines can add to or subtract from your height, weight and body propor- tions. Lines can be used to empha- size your good points and mini- Curved lines: mize the bad. Clothing lines are found in: Give a full, soft look; add pan- Pattern detail: (buttons and clo- tlencss and graceful~~tlss.Look for sures, contrast trims, belts, t hese lines in nCcklinc~s,seamlines, pockets and welts, edgings, hemlines, ru fflcxs, trims, etc. collars), Fabric design: (stripes, prints, plaids, textures, such as corduroy wales). Since lines have direction, they can create optical illusions in garment design. We can use illusions to achieve various efflrts that will enhance your total look. Some of these effects are: TEXTURE AND YOU 1 Smooth and Shiney Crisp Clingy Bulky I Texture, or the feel of fabric, has "What colors do I like? not your best color, in smaller a great influence on the finished *What colors don't I like? amounts. garment and your total look. *Do I receive compliments Color can be used to create lines Choose fabrics that emphasize the when I wear certain colors? and illusions. You can create a positive. "Do I know why some colors horizontal line, one that will widen Smooth, shiny fabrics (such as look better on me? and shorten your appearance, satins, polished cottons and silky when you wear contrasting slacks fabrics) reflect more light, tend to Choosing colors for any outfit and jacket. The contrast creates a advance, and make you look starts with you. Look in a mirror center of interest. A contrasting larger. Duller fabrics (such as under natural and artificial light. splash of color can draw attention crepes, flannels and cotton broad- Analyze the color of your skin, to a particular part of the body. For cloths) look darker, recede in hair and eyes. These form the example, a scarf at the neckline illusion, and make you look basis of your personal coloring. All will call attention to your face. smaller. They also smooth out the colors that you wear should An outfit all in one color makes figure irregularities. harmonize with these colors. a person look taller. The eye Crisp fabrics (such as taffeta follows the line without interrup- and firm chintz) stand too far "ACTION IDEA: Learn how color tion. Dark, cool colors and soft away from the body and may affects your appearance. Hold different make you look larger. However, colors of fabric up to your face. Does when used with the right design, each color make your skin, hair and these fabrics can conceal the eyes look different ? What happens outline of and flatter your figure. with each color? Which do you see Clingy fabrics (such as jersey first, you or the color? Does blue and single knits) tend to hug the emphasize your eyes and hair, but also body and reveal your silhouette. the blue circles under your eyes? Does However, if you use clingy fabrics pink bring out the pink in your skin or in full, fluid designs, they can detract fvom its peach color? Your best camouflage your figure problems colors are those that let you shine and create a soft look. through. Bulky fabrics (such as quilted fabrics and wide-wale corduroy) For ladies, makeup is a part of may add dimension and make you the total picture. When you buy look bigger, but they also can hide clothes or choose fabrics, wear the figure irregularities. makeup that you'll be wearing with them. Make colors part of your COLOR AND YOU wardrobe plan. Pick one of your best color groups to be the founda- To choose your best colors, ask tion of your plan. You can use a yourself: second color you like, even if it is *How do I want to look? intensities absorb more light and project a smaller image. The pastels, warm colors and bright colors reflect more light and may make you look larger. Clothing Level 2 suggested making a color aid to take with you when you shop. If you didn't make one then, try it now. Match your skin, hair and eyes with swatches of fabric or paper and mount them on a cardboard strip. As you shop, use the aid to select clothes or fabric in colors that will look good on you. Remember to choose colors that make you look and feel terrific. These colors will compliment your skin, hair and eyes, and create a figure flattering illusion. Note the colors you are wearing when someone says, "You look great today!" These are your best colors because the emphasis is on you. "Length of jacket, shirt or bodice related to proportion. If a design is *ACTION IDEA - Create a per- in relation to length of pants or not pleasing in proportion or scale, sonal scrapbook with pictures, fabric skirt. it is not likely to have a feeling of swatches, color choices and clothing *Length of sleeve to length of balance. styles that are flattering to your figure arm. Balance in a garment may be type and personal coloring. *A garment is more pleasing if either symmetrical (formal) or its parts (such as collars, buttons, asymmetrical (informal). DESIGN PRINCIPLES belts, etc.) are scaled to your size. Symmetrical balance is when IN DRESS "Consider size of collar to size the design details and color of a and shape of face. garment are divided equally on A well-designed garment must "Check placement of trim - each side of the center. It is easy to follows certain rules. When the where is it on the garment and achieve and makes the garment design elements are combined is it scaled to your size? look classic. according to these rules, the result *Keep accessories in proportion Asymmetrical balance combines is a pleasing over-all effect. to your size. different sizes and shapes on each side of the design center, but is still The proportion of an outfit is balanced. This look is exciting, full PROPORTION is the size or also influenced by fabric prints of motion and dramatic. scale and space relationships of the and textures, color and accessories. Colors can be balanced when parts of an outfit to each other and A plaid, print or stripe will be large areas of color tints are to the garment as a whole. Areas of more pleasing when scaled to your balanced by small areas of bright a garment that are divided un- size and body shape. When all colors or shades. For example, you equally are generally more visually parts of the outfit seem to fit with can add a bright yellow necktie or appealing than areas of equal each other in size and space, scarf to a pale yellow shirt. The space. proportion exists. small bright area balances the large Proportion is often influenced pale area. A gray suit (a large by fashion trends. Hem and jacket BALANCE is a factor that gives neutral area) can be balanced by a lengths may change from season to a feeling of stability to a garment. bright red shirt (small intense season. Beware of the "fashionable It is how the various parts of a area). lengthu even if it is just right for garment have been arranged so a you. Consider proportions such as: feeling of rest results. Balance is "Transition is a curved line that EMPHASIS is the center of softens the angle of two opposing interest or focal point of an outfit. lines. This is a smoother rhythm It dominates or stands out from than when vertical and horizontal the rest of the design. Good lines meet or cross such as tucks, emphasis will direct the eye to seamlines or stitching. only one center of interest. Too many details in an outfit distract the eye and become confusing. Create a center of interest with lines, color and/or accessories. Use RHYTHM in garment design emphasis to call attention to the moves your eye from one place to strong points of your figure. another. Rhythm can be created by: "Repetition can be repeating lines, shapes, colors and textures. The rounded edge of a jacket is repeated in rounded lapels. The shape of pocket tabs are repeated on the upper and lower pockets of a jacket. The color of shoes is repeated in the color of the fabric. "Progression is a gradation of similar objects from small to large or large to small. Examples in-, - are pocket sizes, and tiers of HARMONY or unity is gathers. Gradual changes in color achieved when all design elements values and intensities can also are selected to create a unified idea produce rhythm. or theme. It requires combining "Continuous lines occur in the "Radiation is achieved with lines lines, shapes, colors and textures. structural lines of a garment when that flow from a center of interest. A harmonious outfit should the vertical seam in a jacket lines The radiation of lines may be the present your figure as attractive, up with a vertical seam in slacks or gathers leading the eyes to the yoke well-balanced and well-propor- skirt. This line can be destroyed of a dress, lines flowing to or from tioned. A harmonious outfit will when plaids and stripes are not the center of a bow, and a gathered look as if it all belongs together matched at seams. pocket or neckline. and will look good on you! MAKING COLOR AND LINE WORK FOR YOU Figure Type: Select Outfits That: Short Add height: Vertical lines Plain colors Small prints and plaids Narrow belts of the same fabric or color Simple, uncluttered silhouettes Short and slender Add height and fullness at the same time: Vertical lines Pockets Soft, full sleeves Frilly collars Gently flared skirts and dirndl skirts Short and full Add height and slenderize at the same time: Plain colors or small prints Jacket length between waist and hipline Contrasting collars to emphasize face and neck Simple necklines (such as V-necks) Vertical and princess lines Semi-fitted silhouette ------ I Figure Type: Select Outfits That: I ------ Tall Balance height with horizontal emphasis: Separates Long jackets Contrasting colors and large plaids Bulky fabrics Large pockets Wide belts Tall and willowy Balance height with width and add curves: Horizontal details Large plaids Wide belts Turtle-neck collars, soft scarves Long, full sleeves Soft, rounded silhouette Tall and De-emphasize size and accent full height: Unbroken vertical lines V-nec klines Long sleeves Contrasting collars to emphasize face and neck Easy-fitting silhouette YOUR FACE SHAPE The shape of your face is as to your face and body size. Experi- equal. This face needs height on much a part of your fashion look ment with a variety of new looks, top, very little fullness at the sides as your coloring. You can enhance because you can carry them off. and a medium length cut. or change the apparent shape of The oblong face is long and thin A diamond-shaped face has your face with your hairstyle and with narrow forehead, cheekbones wide cheekbones and narrower clothing. Necklines, in particular, and jawline. Wear hair medium forehead, jawline and chin. Bal- should compliment your face length with fullness at the sides, at ance the wide cheekbones with shape. back and below the ears. Chin fullness at the temples and below What is your face shape? To length hair should not add height and behind the ears. find out, put a towel around your at the crown. An inverted triangle or heart- head. Outline your face on the A round face is fairly short and shaped face has a wide forehead, bathroom mirror with a bar of broad with round contours and slightly narrower cheekbones and soap. Compare the shape you have full plump cheeks. Select an off- a narrow jawline. Add fullness to drawn with the basic face shapes: center part to offset the roundness the lower part of the face to help The oval face has a balanced of the forehead. This face will look balance the width at the forehead. egg shape. Slightly wider at the longer with fullness at the top. Experiment with hairstyles and forehead than at the cheekbones or A triangle face has a square jaw, necklines. Look for current styles chin, it is well-proportioned. narrow forehead and full cheeks. in magazines and newspapers. Males and females with this face Balance exposed forehead with How do different styles look on shape can wear most hairstyles, fullness at the temples and sides. you? Often the way your friends necklines and collar styles. How- The square face is angular with wear their hair is not the best style ever, they need to be proportioned the forehead and jawline almost for you. Be yourself! Square Triangle Diamond 1nvertedV~riangle 14 ACCESSORIES The petite person should choose Bright, light colors, bold con- small pieces that won't overwhelm trast and shiny textures draw Accessories add variety and him or her. Tiny earrings and fine attention and emphasize. White finishing touches to your ward- chains look better on a smaller shoes make your feet look bigger robe. They give an outfit style and person. than dark shoes. Shiny shoes can help you keep up with the If your body is sharply angular, (black patent) attract more atten- latest fashions. select accessories that are also tion to the feet than shoes with a straight and angular. They will be flat finish. A bright shiny belt in harmony with your shape. If draws attention to the waist and your body has softer curves, makes it look wider than does a choose accessories with softer lines, dark dull belt. Bright jewelry or such as a small round handbag. scarves will attract more attention Whatever your size, don't place than darker, non-shiny accessories. accessories where you are over- Avoid a spotty look. A red scarf, sized. A wide belt on a thick waist bright red belt, red jewelry and red or a large bag carried at a full hip shoes create a picture that's too can destroy a well-coordinated confusing to be interesting or look no matter how "in fashion" figure flattering. When you choose the accessories are. accessories, ask: Use the line, color and texture of accessories to draw attention *Is the accessory practical and where you want it. A boldly suitable for my lifestyle? scarf close to the-face *Is the accessory becoming to will draw attention away from the me in line, shape, proportion Just like clothing, accessories hips or waistline. and color? have colors, lines and textures that Accessories create horizontal or *What are the effects of the create optical illusions on your vertical lines. Wide brim hats, color and texture? figure. Like people, accessories wide belts, ankle strap shoes and *Is the accessory the best come in all sizes. They can be very horizontally tied scarves will add quality I can afford? large to very small. Choose width to the body at that point. "Will the accessory fit into my accessories in proportion to your Long scarves, necklines, ties and wardrobe? figure. A tall or big statured tie belts will draw the eye up and "Will I feel comfortable and at person can wear chunky jewelry. down to help slenderize the body. ease when I wear this accessory? When you make your garments, meet quality standards and be easy required for this project. review the sewing basics section in for you to do. Practice new tech- You can use a serger on both Sewing for Fun, Clothing Level 1 niques or methods before you use woven and knit fabrics. You can and Clothing Level 2. For new them on your project. This will use it to finish plain seam edges or skills, choose techniques that are: help you decide if it is the one you to stitch, cut and overcast a narrow want to use. seam in one step. *Inconspicuous Most of the time you will use *Flat and smooth SERGERSEWING both a regular sewing machine and "Free from bulk the serger. Some garments can be *Stitched an even distance from The serger, also called an sewn entirely on the serger while an edge or fold overlock, stitches, trims and others need to have some steps "Functional overcasts seams all in one step. It completed on a regular sewing "Durable allows you to duplicate ready-to- machine. Look for patterns made wear seaming and finishing, especially for serger sewing. Be There may be several different something that's never been sure to check the fit of the garment ways to sew a particular design or possible with a regular sewing before serging seams. pattern detail. Choose one that will machine. A serger is optional, not Sergers differ from regular sewing machines because: 1. Sergers have knife blades that trim the seam allowance. 2. Serging is a knitting process using needles and loopers over a prong or stitch finger. 3. Sergers use two to five spools of thread at one time. 4. Sergers feed two layers of fabric perfectly. 5. The serger presser foot does not have to be lifted when you start and stop sewing. 6. Sergers won't jam if you sew without fabric. The following guidelines are recommended when using a Serger Threads serger. ------for the thicker decorative thread, If the upper looper thread is Thread and tension(s) may be loosened for pulled to the underside, loosen the smooth feeding. lower looper tension or tighten the Buy thread made for a serger. It When using thick threads, serge upper looper. is slightly finer than conventional slowly. If the lower looper thread is all-purpose thread and comes on being pulled to the top side, loosen large cones. Thread Tension the upper looper tension or tighten The needle thread should match the lower looper. the color of the fabric since it is the Check the balance of all threads. When adjusting the tension, thread that shows if the seam line Stitches should be even on both turn one dial at a time. Adjust the is strained. If matching thread is sides of the fabric. Upper and dial that appears too tight first. If not available on a large cone, select lower threads lock around each the stitch still isn't balanced, return matching thread on a small spool. other at the edge of the fabric. dial to its original position and Since the looper threads do not There should be no puckering, tighten the one that appears too show, it is enough that this thread binding or ruffling. loose. blends with the fabric. Use match- ing thread on unlined jackets where seams may show and on finished edges such as the bottom of skirts, dresses or tops. Use contrasting thread for decorating. Decorative Threads With a serger, you can do decorative sewing with various threads, yarns and ribbon. Experi- ment with various colors and threads for interesting effects. Sew test samples and adjust the ten- sion, if necessary. Even minor adjustments can change the finished look of the stitch. Two adjustments are usually Adjusting Thread Tension made: Stitches may be lengthened Stitch Length finger. Check your serger manual line should be the same for the for instructions. The wider the right and left sides of the garment. The stitch length regulator stitch, the more looper thread you LINE. The silhouette lines of the numbers are in millimeters. The will need. To let more thread flow, garment should follow the silhou- lower the number, the shorter the loosen both looper tensions. ette lines of the body. The shoulder stitch. Adjust the stitch length for The narrower the stitch, the less seams should be on top of the each fabric you use. An average thread you will need. Let less shoulders. Vertical seams should stitch length for light to medium thread flow by tightening the be perpendicular to the floor. weight fabrics is 3 mm. Use a 2 looper tensions. Horizontal seamlines should mm stitch length when sewing on follow the body at the neckline, a delicate fabric or one that frays FIT OF YOUR GARMENT waistline and armholes. Darts easily. A 1 mm stitch is used for a should point toward and stop narrow rolled hem. Look at your pattern envelope short of the fullest part of the area The longer the stitch, the more carefully. The picture will show they shape. Hems should be looper thread you will need. To let how the fashion designer intended parallel to the floor. more thread flow, loosen the the garment to fit. The garment EASE. The garment should be looper tensions. description on the back of the neither too loose nor too tight. It The shorter the stitch length, the envelope explains garment details. should be smooth and comfort- less looper thread you'll need. Let Some design details such as high able. If the garment is too tight it less thread flow by tightening the waistlines, drop shoulders and will lose its flow and style lines. looper tensions. pockets may affect the fit of the There will be wrinkles that pull garment. and draw the fabric. Wrinkles that Stitch Width Remember to fit as you sew. lie in folds mean the garment is too Make alterations on the pattern loose. Use a wider stitch on heavier before you cut it out. Try on the BALANCE. The garment should fabrics and a narrower one on garment during construction. As be balanced from right to left, from lighter fabrics. To change the stitch you fit, remember the five basic top to bottom, and from front to width on a 3/4 thread machine, points of fitting: back. A balanced garment gives a remove a needle. On some sergers, GRAIN. The lengthwise grain feeling of equilibrium. move the lower knife in or out; on should be perpendicular to the OVERALL SMOOTHNESS. The others change to a throat plate floor. The crosswise grain should garment should be smooth on the with a narrower stitch forming be parallel to the floor. The grain- body and free from wrinkles. Western wear is a special look worn by people of all ages and all lifestyles. In the past it was popu- lar with cowboys, rodeo stars, and country- western singers. Western wear also was worn by auction- eers, livestock buyers, judges and announcers, veterinarians and spectators. Today western wear has universal appeal; it is practical, comfortable and attractive. Blue jeans, the standard western wear item, are in everyone's wardrobe. "ACTION IDEA - Study the histo y of blue jeans (who, when, why). PATTERN SELECTION - BUYING A PATTERN - Recommended fabrics include: WESTERN WEAR WESTERN WEAR *Denim and stretch denim for Fit, fabric and construction are A number of companies whose pants and jackets. Both are strong important characteristics of west- catalogs are usually found at and durable, and stretch denim ern wear. Western wear is neat, fabric stores offer western wear stretches and can fit snugly with- trim and functional, and can be as patterns. These companies include out being uncomfortable. plain or as dressy as the occasion Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick and *Knit fabrics. They stretch and demands. Kwik-Sew. can fit snugly without being un- The foundation of a western In addition, you might want to comfortable. wardrobe is the shirt and pant contact these smaller, specialized "Cotton and cotton polyester combination with a coordinating companies listed below for west- blends for shirts and blouses. They jacket and/or vest. You may want ern wear patterns. are absorbent, comfortable and to try one of these design ideas: easy to care for. FABRICS FOR WESTERN WEAR "Tapestry and drapery weight *Add piping to the seams of fabrics often are used for vests. jackets, shirts or pants. Select a fabric based on what These fabrics are sturdy, heavy and *Hand or machine embroider you will be wearing the garment offer unusual designs and textures. western motifs. for, and when. Fabrics for work *Leather for pants or chaps. It *Make a hat band to coordinate clothes need to be durable, com- provides protection and durability. with your outfit. fortable to wear, and easy to care *Add a yoke to the front and for. Riding clothes should be Specific fabrics used in western back of shirts, or the back or comfortable and protect the body. wear include: lower legs of pants. Western wear for dress occasions often uses elegant fabrics requiring more delicate care. broadcloth gingham velveteen brocade real leather double knit WESTERN WEAR PATTERNS single knit velvet canvas imitation leather Authentic Patterns, Inc Men's western wear patterns are fake fur real suede 7200 Interstate 20 West multi-sized. A brochure is corduroy denim Arlington, TX 76106 available for $.50, catalog for flannel imitation suede Attn: Bill Millhouse $7.00. Baltrusch Enterprises Lill's Western ~esi~ns"feature a P.O. Box 46519 Main shirt pattern with 5 yoke and WESTERN WEAR FITTING Seattle, WA 98146 3 pocket variations. Multi-sized FACTS patterns are available for men and women. Riding clothes need to be comfortable and easy to move in. Folkwear, Inc. Current fashions based on ethnic To test the fit, exercise and move P.O. Box 3798 and historical styles in multi- around as you would when riding San Rafael, CA 94912 sized patterns. a horse. Swing your arms around; Attn: Megan Shaw throw them forward; touch,your toes; crouch down; straddle a chair Jean Hardy Patterns These multi-sized patterns feature and sit on it. Also, consider the 2151 La Questa Drive contemporary and popular western following specifics: Santa Ana, CA 92705 wear for men, women and children. PANTS. Pants should fit close to Attn: Jean Hardy Brochure costs $1.00. show you and your riding position to the best advantage. They also SuitAbility Riding apparel patterns in the should be comfortable and allow Dept. N5 latest styles with detailed for body movement. The fit should 12485 Cedar Rd. #3 instructions. Free brochure. be snug and smooth. Excess fabric Cleveland, OH 44106 can fold and wrinkle between you and the saddle, causing rubbing and discomfort. A snug fit also WESTERN WEAR DETAILS for where you plan to wear the shows the correct position of your garment? Does the style flatter legs while riding. Pant legs flair Most western wear patterns and you? slightly from the calf to fit over sewing books will include specific COLOR. Does the color suit boot tops. This flare should not be directions for western details, such your personal coloring and body loose and uncontrolled. When you as flat-felled seams, pockets, sleeve type? Have you used pleasing are riding, pants look shorter. The plackets and belt carriers. As you color combinations in the garment correct length for riding is when become more skilled, you can and accessories? the pants cover the heel and modify basic directions to get the ACCESSORIES. Do your shoes, almost touch the floor as you designs and details you want. jewelry and other accessories go stand. The pant leg is slightly with the outfit? Are the style, color shorter in front, just touching the *ACTION IDEA - Visit a western and texture of the accessories boot. An elastic strap on the hem wear store. Identify and evaluate the becoming to you? will keep the pants from working construction techniques used on good up when you ride. quality western wear. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION JACKET. A jacket that covers AND APPEARANCE the rider's seat can hide some of the bouncing caused by a rough HOW DO YOU RATE? FIT. Is the garment loose gait. A snug, smooth-fitting jacket enough to permit body move- shows your straight back while When your garment is finished, ment? Is the garment snug enough riding. Jackets with vents and show others what you have made. to stay in position? Do the pleats in the seams allow for more Model your outfit for your club, garment's lines fall becomingly on shoulder, arm and waist move- enter the fashion revue or exhibit your body? ment. Long, loose- fitting vests and in the local fair. Before doing this, CONSTRUCTION 'METHODS. jackets flatter a figure with larger model for yourself and family with Are the construction methods a hips or stomach. a critical eye. good choice for the fabric and the To find the right length for a Add any accessories you might design of the garment? riding jacket, cup your hand with wear to the garment. Then check CONSTRUCTION QUALITY. arm straight down. The hem each of the items listed below. Is the garment well-constructed? should come to the bend in your Your parents, leader or friends can DETAILS. Are buttons, thread, hand. The sleeves should be long help. zipper and interfacings a good enough to cover your wrist when choice for the fabric and garment your elbow is bent to hold the GENERAL APPEARANCE design? reins. Sleeves that are lined are PRESSING. Was the correct more apt to stay in position. POSTURE. Do you stand tall, in pressing method used during Remember that sleeve trim a flattering position, with your construction? draws attention to the wrists and weight balanced on both feet? CLOTHING KNOWLEDGE. Do makes arms look shorter. Pocket POISE. Are you at ease? Can you know the characteristics of trim draws attention to that area, you answer questions with confi- your fabric and how to take care of whether at chest, waist or hips. dence? Do you use too many it? Do you know why you selected Collar trim frames and accents the gestures? the garment style you did? Do you face. GROOMING. Is your hair clean know why you used various The position of the front and neat? Are vour-nails well- construction techniques? -I buttons affects the fit and size of groomed? Are your shoes or boots the lapel and collar. If you move neat and clean? Is your garment FOR MORE HELP the top button up, your lapel clean and well-pressed? becomes smaller and narrower. MODELING. Do you walk and Sewing books have information This will make the collar fit higher turn smoothly and slowly so and suggestions about construc- on the neck and flatter someone garment details can be seen? Do tion techniques for detailed with a thin neck. As you move the you smile? patterns. Leaflets available in top button down, the lapel and FABRIC. Is texture, weight and fabric stores or from pattern and collar opening becomes wider. design of the fabric a good choice notion companies describe up-to- This is more attractive on a person for this garment? Is the fabric a date construction methods. with heavy facial features. Put a good choice for the intended use? Extension publications are also button at chest level and one at the Does it look good on you? available. Ask your 4-H Club waistline on snug fitting garments. STYLE. Is the style appropriate leader or the local Extension agent. Do you think you would like a Below is a list of some of the Pattern Companies career in the field of textiles, jobs available in the fashion clothing or design? Today, and in industry. To learn more about Designer the future, there will be demand these careers, you'll need to read Artist for attractive, fashionable clothes. and ask questions. You can find Samplemaker There is a wide variety of out about the qualifications, Pattern drafter available jobs in the textiles, personal characteristics and Pattern grader Educational consultant apparel and fashion fields. Many education needed for the career at Catalog editor would also include the field of the library. interior design in which textiles Catalog photographer If you know individuals in these Customer correspondent play an important part. careers, ask them about the skills Each specific occupation and schooling needed. You may Theater requires a diverse range of abili- want to ask some of these ques- ties, interests and education tions about specific careers: Costume designer providing an almost unlimited Costume maker variety of career possibilities. What type of qualifications are Alterationist TEXTILE CAREERS - Workers important? in this field make and finish fibers, How easy is it to find a job? Education yarns and fabrics, and develop What are the opportunities for new methods of fabric construc- advancing from one job to School teacher tion. The work requires an inquir- another? Adult education teacher ing mind, attention to detail, What is the average salary? College teacher patience and accuracy in carrying Are there other benefits? Extension home economist out tests, willingness to try new What kind of working condi- Extension textiles and clothing ideas and computer skills. tions should a person expect? specialist APPAREL FIELD CAREERS - What does the person especially These professionals design, make like about this job? Apparel and Accessories and sell garments. Merchandising, Are there things the person buying and selling clothes is one of doesn't like about the job? Sketcher the largest industries in the United What advice does the person Designer Patternmaker States. Successful people in this have for someone who wants to Samplemaker field understand fabrics, are neat prepare for this career? Fashion coordinator and accurate, have good fashion Can the person recommend a Cutter and customer sense, are energetic good place to get the educational Marker and well organized, and have training needed? Presser finance, math and computer skills. Examiner FASHION CAREERS - Some- Advertising and promotion times called the "glamour field," CAREERS IN THE FASHION Manager this is a fast moving world of INDUSTRY Sales representative changing styles, design and color. It requires a sixth sense so that you Fibers and Fabrics Notion Supplies can tell what is going to happen - (home sewing months before it does! Careers Fiber and fabric librarian and apparel involve the planning and promot- Market researcher production companies) ing of new fashions and working Textile artist with the public. To succeed in the Color stylist Sales representative fashion field you need creativity, Fashion coordinator Educational consultant communication skills, keen sense Fiber production engineer and Production supervisor of fashion, artistic ability, good chemist Plant manager sense of timing for fashion trends, Public relations representative knowledge of different lifestyles, confidence and patience. Do you think you would like a Below is a list of some of the Pattern Companies career in the field of textiles, jobs available in the fashion clothing or design? Today, and in industry. To learn more about Designer the future, there will be demand these careers, you'll need to read Artist for attractive, fashionable clothes. and ask questions. You can find Samplemaker There is a wide variety of out about the qualifications, Pattern drafter available jobs in the textiles, personal characteristics and Pattern grader Educational consultant apparel and fashion fields. Many education needed for the career at Catalog editor would also include the field of the library. interior design in which textiles Catalog photographer If you know individuals in these Customer correspondent play an important part. careers, ask them about the skills Each specific occupation and schooling needed. You may Theater requires a diverse range of abili- want to ask some of these ques- ties, interests and education tions about specific careers: Costume designer providing an almost unlimited Costume maker variety of career possibilities. What type of qualifications are Alterationist TEXTILE CAREERS - Workers important? in this field make and finish fibers, How easy is it to find a job? Education yarns and fabrics, and develop What are the opportunities for new methods of fabric construc- advancing from one job to School teacher tion. The work requires an inquir- another? Adult education teacher ing mind, attention to detail, What is the average salary? College teacher patience and accuracy in carrying Are there other benefits? Extension home economist out tests, willingness to try new What kind of working condi- Extension textiles and clothing ideas and computer skills. tions should a person expect? specialist APPAREL FIELD CAREERS - What does the person especially These professionals design, make like about this job? Apparel and Accessories and sell garments. Merchandising, Are there things the person buying and selling clothes is one of doesn't like about the job? Sketcher the largest industries in the United What advice does the person Designer Patternmaker States. Successful people in this have for someone who wants to Samplemaker field understand fabrics, are neat prepare for this career? Fashion coordinator and accurate, have good fashion Can the person recommend a Cutter and customer sense, are energetic good place to get the educational Marker and well organized, and have training needed? Presser finance, math and computer skills. Examiner FASHION CAREERS - Some- Advertising and promotion times called the "glamour field," CAREERS IN THE FASHION Manager this is a fast moving world of INDUSTRY Sales representative changing styles, design and color. It requires a sixth sense so that you Fibers and Fabrics Notion Supplies can tell what is going to happen - (home sewing months before it does! Careers Fiber and fabric librarian and apparel involve the planning and promot- Market researcher production companies) ing of new fashions and working Textile artist with the public. To succeed in the Color stylist Sales representative fashion field you need creativity, Fashion coordinator Educational consultant communication skills, keen sense Fiber production engineer and Production supervisor of fashion, artistic ability, good chemist Plant manager sense of timing for fashion trends, Public relations representative knowledge of different lifestyles, confidence and patience. Skills To New 1 Skills ! Learn Or Skills I Know 1 Improve Learned I Fasteners (Cont.) Seams Thread loops - --t--- Toggles and frogs Bound, Hong Kong Nylon hook and loop melled tape 1 French I-IAJ + Lapped - Catch stitch by hand Sleeves -- Circular Faced Circle or bell Gathered -- -A- Peasant gathered ! -- L--a Ruffle I I Sleeve placket -+-i, 1 Waistbands and Waistlines i1 Bands on jackets or tops LNecklines Shaped waistband -- Chanel trim Stays Placket variations: piped I -. - - -- I zippers Corded I- 3pj mock turtleneck 1 Decorative turtleneck Exrsed with faciT-77 Square neckline Exposed with collar TaaF Ex osed with ribbin jabot Lapped stitched down Centered (slot) V-neckline: facin s mitered corners - 1 1 lJ 1 Pockets ~~onstruction-7 -- -1: Curved or shaped 1 Flaps -+- -- -- 1 Inseam IBias design work Lined ~renchdirts Pleated Insets 1 Pant yokes S uare corners Pleats Shirt yokes -- Trims applied by hand --- - I Skills To New Additional Pattern Details and Construction Skills 1 i Learn Or Skills Techniques Learned, list: I I Know Improve Learned I Other Construction Details (Cont.) Trims applied by machine Tucks Other Construction Techniaues Applique Frin~e Hand embroiderv I 1 1 Machine embroidery Metal studs Patchwork Piping Quilting Reversible items Recycling old fabric 1 1 1 into new garment or item Rick rack Topstitching Trapunto Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Leo E. Lucas, Director of Cooperative Extension, University of Nebraska, m&I/z Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources. Cooperative Extension provides information and educational programs to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, sex or handicap.