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Even As Trends Shift, Activewear and Athleisure Remain Relevant to Fashion by Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

Even As Trends Shift, Activewear and Athleisure Remain Relevant to Fashion by Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 15 APRIL 12–18, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE FOR 74 YEARS Even as Trends Shift, Activewear and Remain Relevant to By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

As utilitarian looks and retro-style gain momen- tum, some in the fashion industry are declaring the end of ac- tivewear and athleisure. Looking back through activewear’s history, from the –and– days of the to the baggy basketball of the 1990s and the track of the early , it’s clear that activewear doesn’t leave fash- ion—it simply evolves over time. Examining the evolution of activewear and its athleisure sibling, it is apparent that this category of apparel has become a mainstay of fashion. Just ask Beyoncé and , who re- cently announced they were partnering to relaunch Knowles- Carter’s Ivy Park of athleisure apparel.

Trend-to-lifestyle transition For the latter half of 2019, forecasters note that are comfortable but stylish in a fun way. Many of the characteristics Athleisure page 3 Byer California Cited for Evading Customs Duties by Undervaluing Garments By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor After years of litigation, Byer California has agreed to pay $325,000 in a civil fraud lawsuit that alleges the de- cades-old company for five years undervalued the cost of its merchandise coming through customs, paying lower duties than normal. The case came to light when a whistle-blower, identi- fied as Michael Krigstein, told federal officials that Byer California reportedly had been receiving goods from Queen Apparel NY Inc. on a DDP, or delivered duty-paid basis, meaning that Queen Apparel took care of filing the customs forms and delivering the goods to Byer California. But federal prosecutors maintained in a lawsuit filed in the Southern District of New York that Byer knew that Queen Apparel was undervaluing Byer’s garments in cus- toms forms submitted between 2009 and 2013 to Customs and Border Patrol inspectors but Byer continued to do busi- ness with Queen anyway. “Byer chose to continue sending work orders to Queen Byer page 3

INSIDE: FASHION FORWARD Where fashion gets down to business SM 2 8 Graduating students at the Fashion Institute of & Merchandising Levi Strauss Earnings … p. 2 showed off their creations at the annual student . Mossimo money-laundering charges … p. 2 For more looks, see page 7. Omnichain … p. 9 Performance/Active/Athleisure and T- resources ... p. 9

Anna Reinherz

ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES www.apparelnews.net

01,3.indd 1 4/11/19 6:19 PM NEWS Fashion Mossimo Giannulli and Wife Charged With Money Laundering

Nearly one month after 33 parents were bella Rose and Olivia Jade—into the Uni- colleges, Stanford University, Yale Uni- their federal tax forms. indicted for paying bribes to get their chil- versity of Southern California by being versity and USC. Actress Felicity Huffman was not dren into prestigious universities, 16 of designated as recruits to the USC crew team Skinner’s nonprofit, called the Key named in the additional charge. She is one them were indicted by a federal grand jury even though they did not participate in crew, Worldwide Foundation, headquartered in of 13 parents who agreed to plead guilty on a secondary charge of fraud and money court documents said. Newport Beach, Calif., allegedly used do- to charges of committing mail and wire laundering. The money-laundering charge, filed on nated funds from the parents to pay off ath- fraud and honest service mail and wire Those 16 parents include April 9, comes from contributions the par- letic directors to recruit some of the students fraud. fashion designer Mossimo Giannulli and his ents made to a nonprofit run by William for their teams and to pay test takers to help With this additional indictment, the 16 wife, actress Lori Loughlin. “Rick” Skinner, accused of masterminding students improve their scores. parents will be required to appear in federal They were originally accused of paying the college bribery scandal that used $25 Many of the parents deducted their Key court in Boston in coming days to enter a $500,000 to get their two daughters—Isa- million to get students into, among other Worldwide Foundation contributions on plea.—Deborah Belgum Levi Strauss Reports Solid First-Quarter Earnings Just weeks after going public, Levi Strauss was driven mostly by Levi’s women’s busi- work to do on the franchise business. We feel but it is still early in the year and there are & Co., based in San Francisco, reported that its ness, which grew by 18 percent. “Skinny we have barely scratched the surface.” uncertainties,” he noted. first-quarter revenues for 2019 were up 7 per- and high-rise styles continue to be popular,” Looking at the rest of 2019, Levi’s chief Levi’s, which was a public company from cent to $1.435 billion over the same period last Bergh said. financial officer, Harmit Singh, said the 1971 to 1985, returned to being a publicly year. Net income in the first quarter was $147 Men’s bottoms sales were up 6 percent in company that makes clothing under the traded entity in late March. Its stock opened at million compared with a $19 million net loss the first quarter and still made up the largest Levi’s, Dockers, Signature and Denizen $17 a share when it debuted on the New York during last year’s first quarter. percentage of revenues. “Wholesale business should see revenue grow in the mid Stock Exchange. Recently, it closed at around The region that performed the best for the was up 8 percent despite continued door clo- single digits. “This may sound conservative, $22.88.—D.B. company was the Americas, which encom- sures,” the CEO said. passes the , Canada and Latin Levi’s continues to open its own stores. America. Revenues in those geographic areas At the end of the first quarter, it had 70 more were up 9 percent to $717 million while in Asia stores than during the same time last year. Its Michael Levine to Close Devoted to revenues inched up 8 percent to $253 million, plan for fiscal 2019 is to unveil 100 doors. but revenues rose only 3 percent in , to E-commerce business was up 24 percent Home-Décor Fabrics and Pound Goods $465 million. over last year. The company has a plan to roll Chip Bergh, the company’s chief executive out an online shop later this year, and a pickup- Michael Levine, the well-known down- officer and president, noted that this was the in-store feature to help boost sales. town Los Angeles fabric store, is closing its sixth consecutive quarter of double-digit con- Looking around the globe, the company space at 919 Maple Ave. and its loft at 917 stant-currency revenue growth. “This shows still feels there is a lot of untapped business to Maple Ave., which sell upholstery fabrics and the strategic results of our plan seven years ago be found in China, where revenues inched up notions. to become a world-class omni-channel retail- 5 percent in the first quarter compared to last It is located across the street from the Mi- er,” he said in a conference call following the year. “China continues to be a huge long-term chael Levine fabric store at 920 Maple Ave., earnings results released on April 9. operation for us,” Bergh said. “Part of the chal- which has approximately 20,000 square feet Bergh noted that growth in the first quarter lenge is setting up the team. There is still more on its main floor and a 3,500-square-foot mez- zanine. The spaces closing have signs The Michael Levine spaces at 917 and 919 50 percent to 80 percent off merchandise fo- Maple Ave. cused on home and patio . The space pound-goods fabric,” he said in an email. “Our also sells closeout fabrics by the pound. store that has apparel fabric located at 920 Ma- The two spaces are closing because the ple Ave. will remain open.” lease agreement between Michael Levine and Neighborhood experts feel that the clo- property-management firm Ard Company sure is simply good business sense due to the will expire in June, said Amir Damavandi, the company’s reputation as a fabric-and-notions real-estate business’s president. While no date resource and the popularity of the 920 Maple has been set for when Michael Levine will Ave. location. Premium, vacate the space, the business will move out “There is still a strong market for fabric when the lease expires or another tenant agrees here because people want to touch and feel to move in. fabric,” said L.A. Fashion District Business Sustainable Michael Levine’s president, Larry Freidin, Improvement District Executive Director emphasized that the closure of the predomi- Rena Masten Leddy. “Michael Levine is one nantly home design–focused space does not of the places people visit in the Fashion Apparel signify that the company will completely leave District, and people come from all over Cali- the neighborhood. fornia to go there. It’s definitely a draw, and “The location address that is closing is 919 we consider it one of the many anchors in the Maple Ave., which houses our home, deck and district.”—Dorothy Crouch

RETAIL SALES March Retail Sales Are Mixed March business showed a slight uptick for best measure for performance is the com- The Buckle Inc., whose same-store sales in- bined sales for the two months.” creased 0.5 percent in a year-over-year com- The Buckle Inc. and Cato Corp. are two parison. of the last retailers who report company re- However, its net sales remained flat at sults monthly. In February, Zumiez Inc. and $82.3 million, according to an April 11 state- L Inc. separately announced they ment from the Kearney, Neb.–headquartered would cease their monthly sales reports. In- retailer, which is focused on . stead they will report quarterly sales. March same-store sales for value retailer It’s a marked difference from a decade The Cato Corp. declined 7 percent com- ago when almost every public company re- pared with last year. The company’s net ported monthly sales results. In 2008, Ma- sales were $87.4 million for the month, a 10 cy’s Inc. stopped its monthly sales reports percent decrease from the previous year. followed by Walmart Inc. John Cato, the Charlotte, N.C.–based Los Angeles retail analyst Jeff Van Sinderen retailer’s chairman, president and chief ex- of B.Riley FBR said many business executives D.O.H.P. Denim Contact: David Galindo ecutive officer, argued that March results didn’t want to sandbag investors with bad news www.dohp.com 510-754-8523 did not tell his company’s full story. “March during the Great Recession and the recovery. sales were negatively impacted by the shift “Why report monthly when the metrics are IG: @d_o_h_p [email protected] of Easter from March last year to April this negative and you don’t have much positive to year,” Cato said. “Because of this shift, the say?” Van Sinderen recalled.—Andrew Asch

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 12–18, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 4/11/19 6:26 PM PERFORMANCE/ACTIVE/ATHLEISURE

Athleisure Continued from page 1 ing,” she said. “The woman who is trend driven will invest in a serve this market. At Thrive Société, Neidt is designing toward lightweight pant in a utility fabric in a stretch woven that these trends as she sees consumers responding to multi-textured of these fashions are spreading into activewear and athleisure can be worn to work with a heel and on a hike with . garments. by simplifying a consumer’s life. You can it up or dress it down and it will work for you all “We’ve seen a push toward ribbing and mixing it with a sol- “There are all these trend reports coming out for late 2019 day long.” id, smoother fabric,” she said. “You’re getting that textural play or 2020 saying that ‘utility chic’ is trending. To me, it’s sim- A key element of athleisure has been its ability to add ver- by making your solid garment more interesting. You’re seeing ply adding function to the clothes you’re wearing,” said Bre satility to a consumer’s . Investing in more jacquards and also beautifully monoton- Neidt, senior designer at Walnut, Calif.–based activewear brand quality pieces that work in a variety of settings, al multi-textured garments.” Thrive Société. “As an evolution, utility chic is a trend in active from lounging at home to a night out with and athleisure that will bring more pockets, more functionality friends, has been the earmark of this segment. The role of active and athleisure and also more reflective items to make female athletes safer.” “Over the last five years, we have used Active and athleisure pieces are often paired with more-for- our fabrics to make more crossover items like The consistent success—and staying pow- mal apparel to create a fresh take on business and special-event rompers, loungewear and trend basics—items er—of the activewear and athleisure markets attire. For the upcoming , pairing more-casual styles you could wear out for cocktails,” Wahler said. goes beyond the new trends in style but can from the activewear and athleisure markets will become more “[Our customer] wants to live comfortably and also be found in the positive effects it can have common. for all of her items to move seamlessly through on a person’s mood. “Athleisure is the of the new generation. It has bro- her day. The same high-quality she “Some brands are doing better than others, ken out of category, and it encompasses everything from your wears to a class she wants to toss a over but the ones that are doing better are approach- classic white T-shirt and items with serious tailoring to pieces and look chic at supper. For the consumer, it ing inclusivity and highlighting our diversity polished enough for a boardroom,” said Michelle Wahler, co- is no longer an ‘active’ category, it’s simply by promoting fearless body positivity,” Wood founder of Culver City, Calif., brand Beyond Yoga. “It’s no fashion.” said. “It’s all-encompassing. The brands are longer about the activity, it is about servicing a lifestyle. We Throughout the most recent period when trying to diversify and not cater to one active are excited to be in a space that is so flexible and future facing.” fashion has embraced more-active styles and or athleisure customer.” Not only are brands designing to serve the fashionable active the advent of athleisure, a noticeable shift in The future of activewear and athleisure and athleisure client, but partners along the supply chain also athletic-focused apparel has oc- lies in the ability of these segments to support report that these two segments of the apparel market remain curred. Serious athletes also want to have fun body positivity and diversity in a way that pure strong. At Long Beach, Calif., fabric manufacturer Texollini, with their clothing, oftentimes through their fashion struggles to achieve. there is a large offering of textiles that serve the active and ath- warmup and post-workout apparel. “There are girls who work out that are not leisure categories. “Those that started as pure activewear a size small, but they are healthy and they are Texollini’s director of merchandising, Sherry Wood, ex- brands now include some portion of athlei- allowed to feel good about themselves,” Neidt plained that the segment is strong. “We haven’t seen any slow- sure,” Wood said. “Within their high-perfor- explained. down in either the active or athleisure market. If anything, we’ve mance, active garments, they are now adding Activewear and athleisure brands are on- seen continual growth,” she said. “There is this big market hap- athleisure, whether it’s T-, tops, track board with the feel-good trends. When con- pening with self-awareness and self-wellness and health—not suits, sweats, sweatshirts or —any of sumers wear clothing that makes them feel only with diet, but also mentally. It’s a lifestyle trend.” those styles will complement and can be mixed better or improves their self-esteem, they are with true active styles.” likely to return to the brands that provided Thrive Société Style in the active segment On the activewear side, Wood has noticed these experiences. trends moving toward technical fabrics that provide perfor- “We pull from runway trends and combine that inspira- During trend-forecasting shows for Fall 2019 and into 2020, mance value to consumers who need apparel that will maintain tion with our high-endurance fabrics and popular silhouettes,” there has been a lot of talk about a return to bright colors includ- its integrity despite demanding workouts and wash cycles. Wahler said. “We want all women to be able to access trend- ing hot pink, orange, lime and cool cyan while mixing these “We’re seeing specific trends from a perspective with forward collections that make them look and feel amazing.” hues with more neutral tones such as dusty rose or olive green. second- fabrics that are fine gauge with a lot of Lycra and Brands have also noticed a change in the attitude of their When pairing active and athleisure pieces for a look that reach- some compression,” she said. “They are lightweight, free flow- clientele as the demands of the female consumer are reflective es beyond gym walls, Neidt mentions that accessorizing and ing with great movement but still have technical properties.” of an emboldened overall outlook. layering is key to the trend-driven consumer. On the athleisure side of the textile business, she sees de- “That is the state of women,” Neidt said. “The trends are “The super-crop or crew for Fall—it’s about show- mand for French terry, fleece, ribbed, twills and novelty jac- going the way women are feeling: empowered, bold and our ing how many pieces you can show off at once through layer- quards, as texture is trending in a major way among brands who future is bright.” ●

NEWS

duties,” said Angel Melendez, a special agent-in-charge for Grunfeld, Desiderio, Lebowitz, Silverman & Klestadt, Byer Continued from page 1 Immigration and Customs Enforcement. “This scheme back- said this case is not the general rule because it was not ini- for garments that it understood would be imported into the fired.” tially brought by the government but by a whistle-blower. country with false customs forms resulting in fraudulent Other apparel companies, named in different lawsuits, “There have been a series of False Claims Act violations underpayment of customs duties,” the U.S. Department of have been caught up in this kind of scheme. In 2014, cloth- recently with a number in the apparel sector,” Wortman said. Justice said in a March 27 press release announcing the set- ing manufacturer Dana Kay and its affiliate companies, in- “They are usually filed by a disgruntled former employee, tlement. “Byer admitted to and accepted responsibility for cluding Danny & Nicole, were sued for underreporting the someone who has knowledge and is not happy with the com- certain conduct alleged in the government’s complaint and value of their garments and ended up paying $10 million to pany for whatever reason.” agreed to pay $325,000 to the United States.” settle their False Claims Act case. He said the lesson people should learn through these Phil Byer, chief executive of Byer California, said the According to the government, Dana Kay and its affiliates cases is that Los Angeles is the land of companies that love company fully accepts responsibility for its conduct described produced invoices for customs that undervalued the price of to bring in goods DDP, but they need to be careful and re- in the settlement agreement. Although Byer did not inform a garment by, on average, $2.50 a piece. Customs officials view all customs documents. “Customs is focused on DDP customs about Queen’s suspected undervaluation, he said, it maintained that with customs duties averaging 22 percent, imports,” he said. “Customs has a belief that DDP is a bad did not conspire with Queen to undervalue merchandise. Dana Kay was saving 55 cents per garment. thing. There are absolutely good business reasons for im- “Byer was not part of the undervaluation scheme that That added up to a lot because Dana Kay was importing porting DDP because you don’t tie up your money because Queen had in place with other customers, and Byer did not millions of , and every year, which were you don’t owe anything until you get your goods.” obtain lower prices as a result of any of Queen’s valuation sold under various names including Studio 1, Taylor He warned that if the price listed for a garment in the im- calculations,” he noted. “While it was found that Queen oc- Dresses, Zarr Collection and Gabby Skye, as well as pri- porting documents sounds too good to be true, there is some- casionally paid the government less duty than was legally vate-label clothing produced for Chico’s, Cache, Ann Tay- thing wrong. “You should be doing some due diligence,” owed, Byer paid Queen market prices for the imported lor and Dress Barn. “This was simple customs fraud,” said Wortman advised. “You can’t turn a blind eye.” goods and resold that merchandise to its U.S. customers for Michael Fitzgerald, the New lawyer who represented Customs brokers and attorneys said they noticed that last regular market prices.” Michael Krigstein, the whistle-blower in that case too. year the government began taking a more intensive look at He said the company decided to pay a settlement fee con- Krigstein, a former employee of Dana Kay, received $2.2 imported goods. Elon Pollack, a customs attorney in Los An- sidering the cost to further litigate the case. million for tipping off customs officials, which was 22 per- geles with Stein Shostak Shostak Pollack & O’Hara, said Byer California, a major supplier of juniors and misses cent of the $10 million settlement. he is seeing more shipments being flagged that are brought clothing to major department stores, was one of a handful of What all these cases have in common is that a whistle- in by nonresident importers. “People who have been import- apparel companies named in a civil fraud lawsuit first filed blower alerted customs officials that these companies were ing for five or six years are all of a sudden getting their en- in 2013 under the federal False Claims Act. The other com- undervaluing their garments when bringing them in through tries rejected,” he said. panies named included Motives Inc., a clothing importer, customs. And all the garments were brought in DDP as op- Robert Krieger, president of the Los Angeles customs and Motives Far East and Motives China Ltd., foreign posed to FOB, or free on board. brokerage company Krieger Worldwide, said customs offi- clothing manufacturers. They were accused of engaging in FOB means the clothing company importing the mer- cials are getting more sophisticated with computer software a double-invoicing scheme where there were two sets of in- chandise is responsible for getting the goods through cus- that can analyze the stated purchase price of a garment and voices, one with lower prices shown to customs and one with toms or hiring a freight forwarder or customs broker to do see if it conforms to the price listed for similar garments the actual prices of the garments. all the paperwork. brought into the country. “Let’s say you are bringing in cot- In a 2016 settlement agreement, Motives admitted to un- For years, customs officials have urged that importers ton woven denim jeans from China,” Krieger said. “There is derreporting the value of its imported clothes and agreed to take more responsibility for their imports and bring them a harmonized tariff number for that, and customs has data for pay $13.375 million to the United States. “Motives disguised in FOB as opposed to relying on overseas manufacturers to every importer of that product for the last couple of years.” the true value of goods imported into the United States to deliver the goods under DDP. If the garment’s price falls below 10 percent of the typi- cheat the government out of millions of dollars in customs Richard Wortman, a customs attorney in Los Angeles for cal price, customs officials start asking questions, he said. ●

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 12–18, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3.indd 3 4/11/19 5:50 PM PERFORMANCE/ACTIVE/ATHLEISURE Expert Brand Introduces New Collection Expert Brand, a longtime ac- tive lifestyle apparel and promo- tional clothing company based in Vernon, Calif., is celebrating more than 25 years in business by expanding its American MoCA collection with eight new styles, six for women and two for men. The new collection is meant to mix fashion and function for everyday wear and is offered in a number of colors made with an environmentally friendly sustain- able fiber. The collection of hoodies, V- neck shirts, tanks and cardigans have a blend of MicroModal and combed . The new women’s styles include a tie-front tank, drape-front , sleeveless hoodie, V-neck hoodie, V-neck T- shirt and a cinch-back tee, while the women’s styles include V- neck short- and long-sleeve tees. “The latest additions to the American MoCA collection are ideal for an everyday active lifestyle of cycling, yoga, hiking, walking and other activities,” said Sion Sha- man, the owner of Expert Brand. Shaman named the collection for both its combination of materials—Modal and cotton—and its California roots, with each piece made in the United States. Expert Brand was started in 1993 by designing, developing and manufacturing performance fabrics. Then two of its larg- est customers asked if the company could sew T-shirts to respond to last-minute orders from retailers. The company started out with four em- ployees, two apparel styles and less than 100,000 garments manufactured a year. To- day, there are more than 100 employees and 200 apparel styles making up the millions of garments made each year. The company’s customer base has grown from a handful of entities to more than 800 companies, including promotional-products distributors, apparel decorators, gyms, yoga studios, sporting-goods retailers and more on the business-to-business side.

Calendar

April 12 San Mateo County Event Center April 26 San Mateo, Calif. Hawaii Market Merchandise Stagecoach Through April 16 Expo Empire Polo Club Blaisdell Exhibition Center April 19 Indio, Calif. Honolulu Through April 28 Through April 14 Coachella Dusk Till Dawn April 27 Coachella Festival Dusk Till 46605 Dillon Road Global Sources Fashion Dawn Coachella, Calif. 46605 Dillon Road AsiaWorld-Expo Through April 21 Coachella, Calif. Hong Kong Through April 14 April 20 Through April 30 Fashion and Sustainability Hong Kong International Home Summit Textiles and Furnishings LIM College Hong Kong Convention and There’s more New York Exhibition Centre on ApparelNews.net. Hong Kong April 14 Through April 23 For calendar details and contact Fashion Market Northern information, visit ApparelNews. California net/events.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 12–18, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

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hyosung.indd 1 4/11/19 5:26 PM FASHION FIDM Debut 2019 Showcases the Future of Fashion From New SHAPE UP formalwear to swimwear and streetwear. They By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor also channeled personal trials, family connec- Barker Hangar in Santa Monica, Calif., tions and science as inspiration for their col- was the setting for FIDM Debut 2019, the lections. and capture the attention of annual showcase produced by the Fashion The Scholarship recipient, Andrea Institute of Design & Merchandising, head- Isaza, presented clothes that would allow her quartered in downtown Los Angeles. target audience to experience the power she retailers with The show provides an opportunity for feels from fashion. The colorful collection fea- select graduating students to unveil their tured a faux-fur white with red-and-black design talents during a professionally pro- accents with the message “Pray for fashion” duced runway show in front of an audience written on the back. Isaza was also chosen as comprising some of the industry’s most in- the recipient of a scholarship to Accademia fluential players. Koefia Roma. Starting the night with Chair- ing Styles, this segment of the April 6 event showcased col- laborative proj- premier ects created by students who are pursuing design performance degrees in tex- tiles, interiors and fashion. fabrics made Five groups of students were each tasked with devel- in the USA oping one chair and a comple- mentary . With the help of Ana Ma- ria , which manufactured the chairs; embroidery

business Royal ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES Maye Chie En- 2019 FIDM Debut Designers (from left, back to front) Heewon Moon, Jason terprises, Inc.; Tirtorahardjo, Mitchell Carr, Anna Reinherz, Adam James, Sofia Elin, Emi and fabric-printing Ishizeki, Kyle Denman, Kai Erven and Andrea Isaza provider Textile XPress, five student groups developed designs Using Rio de Janeiro’s and de- to reflect four different countries: Japan, Rus- signer as her inspirations, sia, China and India. Sofia Elin, the recipient of the Jack and Joan For this year’s presentation of Advanced Bonholtzer Scholarship, created a full line Theatre Design, students Audrey of , cover-ups, light , skirts, Anna Cook, Lorraine Ely, Shannon Farkas, pants and blouses. Taking her inspirations Hannah Smith, Emily Stipcak and Jessica to heart, the designer created a cyan swim- Swanson took inspiration from Mozart’s with pink-and-yellow accents, a floor- opera “The Magic Flute.” Working with length, blue-and-pink open-front and a this theme, the students chan- feathery Brazilian Carnival – neled the composer’s work to style costeiro worn on the create whimsical back of the outfit. that relayed the tale of the op- As inspiration for his men’s era’s characters—the Queen and women’s pieces, the No- of Night, Prince Tamino and lan Miller Scholarship recipi- The goal at Antex Knitting Mills is to service the knit Pamina. ent Jason Tirtorahardjo looked A new addition to this year’s to the legacy of fabric needs of the apparel industry with high quality, show was also included on the designer . competitively priced fabrics, backed by outstanding runway—a segment dedicated The hand-painted and hand- exclusively to denim. After dyed approach to his designs customer service and technical expertise. FIDM started its Business of elevated basic T-shirts, pants Denim program in 2017, the and shorts but also added second class of students repre- unique details to a white Antex’s product line includes: senting the program—Bianca –style dress and

Matchmaster prints Betdashtoo, Edith Baeza, Isa- ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES a light-pink spaghetti-strap Antex Premier Performance bella Barreiro Seiden, Joseph Barbara Bundy baby-doll dress. Gonzalez, Shannon Reddy and Kneeling down to meet her Dry Inside Performance Cotton Xinyu Liu—will graduate this June. In addi- little models as they started down the runway, Pyrosafe by Antex flame retardant knits tion to traditional washes in indigo hues, these Emi Ishizeki designed childrenswear inspired Advanced Business of Denim students fea- by designer Coco . The tured on-trend denim in patchwork, tie-dye, Rose Morbit Bolognone Scholarship winner neon colors and bright white. created tailored jumpers and slacks in addition “The Advanced Study Program in the to more feminine, bouncy dresses adorned

At last! Flame retardant clothing with Business of Denim is designed to facilitate a with bows, tulle and ruffles. the comfort of your favorite T-shirt! unique for students in the areas of Inspired by work he performed with the 3750 S. BROADWAY PLACE, LOS ANGELES, CA 90007 denim design and development, product ap- Scripps Center regarding the effects of art on The ONLY Flame Resistant plication, industry sustainability, and denim patients suffering from Alzheimer’s disease COTTON KNITS that Comply with NFPA 2112 TEL (323)NFPA 232-2061 70E finishing and production,” Barbara Bundy, and dementia, Kyle Denman presented fash-

Charles Javer at 213-713-2347 or [email protected] MADE IN THE USA FIDM’s vice president of education, said in a ions that included a black avant-garde piece 3750 S. Broadway Place, Los Angeles, CA 90007 323-232-2061 www.pyrosafebyantex.com WWW.ANTEXKNITTING.COM statement. “Students are prepared to enter and with a cylindrical face-covering headpiece FOR MORE INFORMATION succeed in the international world of denim and matching top, worn with a floor-length from fiber origin through product life.” bubble skirt. The winner of the FIDM Debut PLEASE CONTACT [email protected] The school’s Advanced Fashion Design and Jerry Epstein Scholarships, Denman also students created collections in categories from created edgy but wearable looks such as black

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 12–18, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06-7.FIDM.indd 6 4/11/19 6:01 PM FASHION ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES BENJAMIN SHMIKLER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES BENJAMIN SHMIKLER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES Joseph Gonzalez Heewon Moon Adam James Kyle Denman Jason Tirtorahardjo Andrea Isaza Emi Ishizeki Mitchell Carr

straight-leg pants with dramatic red hip-to-shin embellish- pieces that were strong yet feminine. In addition to eve- ments. ning and military-style , the FIDM Merit As a Guess Scholarship winner, Kai Erven was inspired Scholarship winner unveiled a long-sleeve, high-neck, by space and , particularly Elon Musk’s Tesla black faux-leather mini-dress embossed with metal nail- and SpaceX. With a collection that relied on a lot of black head details. and brown, in addition to metallic touches and hardware em- Creating high-end mens- and womenswear, the Karen bellishments, Erven created utilitarian men’s and women’s Kane Scholarship winner Heewon Moon favored asym- pieces in slim pants, hoodies, jackets and a brown knee- metrical design details, such as a sleeveless length skirt whose fabric zipped off in two places, creating that featured pieces of fabric folded into fan shapes that two additional, shorter lengths. overlapped for a ruffle effect. A men’s coat in white featured For the John and Victoria Hill Scholarship winner, Anna dropped and an asymmetrical hem. Reinherz was inspired by icons from the 1980s, such as For Scholarship winner Mitchell Carr, the Grace Jones and Joan Collins, for her collection of trench- resilience of bumblebees and his own strength to over- coat dresses, pencil skirts, slim-leg pants and with come injuries sustained in a car accident inspired his col- strong shoulders in fuchsia and mustard tones. One below- lection of womenswear. Featuring skirts in lace and tulle, the-knee trench dress in a striking pink hue was comple- loose styles in pants and romantic off-the-shoulder tops mented by a leopard-print to cinch the . with ruffle details, Carr also designed a yellow Taught to sew by his grandmother, Adam James was with a top; a shiny, black-beaded, fringe off-the- inspired by his family’s machinery business to create shoulder detail; and a black tulle overlay. ● BENJAMIN SHMIKLER/AB IMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES Kai Erven Sofia Elin

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 12–18, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

06-7.FIDM.indd 7 4/11/19 6:03 PM T-SHIRTS AS YOUR BRAND EVOLVES Tech Experience Inspires Brandon Kawai to Become a Clothing Designer

The casual fashion style of the tech in- long-sleeve work shirt made of Japanese in- dustry and its leaders has been critiqued as digo denim. It for $350. being too basic, but Brandon Kawai saw The basics line features tees made of a nothing but possibilities for this particular softer, ringspun cotton and retails for $40. style when he interned two years ago at a For more information, visit www. startup tech company in downtown Los An- kawailosangeles.com.—Andrew Asch geles. The idea of outfitting entrepreneurs in- spired Kawai more than developing the next cool app. So in 2018 he charted a new career direction when he introduced his basics and fashion brand called Kawai, which made its wholesale debut at the LA Men’s Market in March. Kawai wanted his self-named brand to offer T-shirts, and jackets that were casual and comfortable but different from other labels. “I wanted to make clothes for the young L.A. entrepreneur. They could be enough to wear to work or to go to happy hour at a place like Perch after- wards,” Kawai said, referring to the high- end bar and nightclub in downtown Los Angeles. “Kawai’s clothes are made in Los MAKE YOUR BRANDING SOLUTIONS Angeles. This city made me into who I am.” As a kid in Fullerton, Calif., he learned about putting clothes together from his mother and grandmother, who sewed gar- PROGRESSIVE ments while he sketched clothes. When he got his driver’s license, he would drive to Los Angeles’ Fairfax Avenue to out WWW.PROGRESSIVELABEL.COM the flagship stores for streetwear brands in- (323) 415-9770 cluding The Hundreds and Diamond Sup- LOS ANGELES • MEXICO • HONG KONG ply Co. When he got serious about fashion, he LABELS • HANGTAGS • PATCHES • RFID • HARDWARE • LOOKBOOKS • & MUCH MORE searched the Internet for Los Angeles pat- ternmakers who could help create the cloth- ing he sketched. His first foray into fashion was making denim trucker . When his

Get Inspired! Hundreds of Stocked Novelty Knits, Wovens, Linings and More! One Roll Minimum. www.cinergytextiles.com Tel: 213-748-4400 [email protected]

fraternity brothers at California State Uni- STUDIO 93,LLC versity, Fullerton and high school friends purchased the caps, he took it as a sign that Regular & Deadstock he was on his way to a solid business. Wholesale Fabric Supplier Kawai broadened his collection to in- clude jackets with Japanese silhouettes, End to End Apparel denim work shirts, sweatpants and T-shirts. Manufacturing Services The line’s silhouettes are oversized. The T- shirts have a boxy fit with drop shoulders. On some shirts, the brand’s name is em- S T U D I O 9 3 broidered. On others, Kawai screen-prints graphics. But he doesn’t want the embroi- dery or graphics to dominate the clothes. Wide range of fabrication “Embroidery and screen-printing are tools and colors to choose from! to enhance the garments,” he said. “I want the silhouettes to do the talking. I want peo- Affordable prices and flexible ple to say, ‘That’s a Kawai shirt because of quantities! the way it is cut and the fabrics.’” The Kawai label is divided into two lines. Kawai’s Collection 1 offers finer fabrics, such as a French terry shirt that retails for 213-277-9988 www.studio93.info [email protected] $110. The higher-end collection features a

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 12–18, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08.t0sirts.indd 8 4/11/19 6:07 PM TECHNOLOGY L.A.-Based Omnichain Solutions Puts New Tech in Supply-Chain Game Apparel News Group

Across the street from the hipster hangout The chain. Leading companies listed as participating Line Los Angeles in L.A.’s Koreatown area, a on BITA’s board include FedEx, UPS and Daim- group of supply-chain industry veterans are work- ler. Soni serves on the board of BITA. 74 1945-2019 ing on a way to mesh their established practices of Omnichain hosts and produces a cloud-based Seventy-four years of news, their business with the new world of blockchain. platform where companies can develop and work fashion and information The tech company Omnichain Solutions, on their operations. People participating on the

founded by Pratik Soni and Ray Young, official- network can gain access on any electronic device. CEO/PUBLISHER ly started business last year with the mission of Omnichain’s mix of blockchain and supply TERRY MARTINEZ shaking up the supply-chain business with block- chain has been received warmly by members of chain. Blockchain gained a cachet when the sys- the tech crowd. Last year it was honored by the tem started about a decade ago in the Wild West tech journal Red Herring as one of the Top 100 EXECUTIVE EDITOR DEBORAH BELGUM world of cryptocurrency. winners. The juried award is given RETAIL EDITOR Blockchain is basically a time-stamped immuta- Pratik Soni Ray Young to private technology ventures the magazine be- ANDREW ASCH ble ledger of data on a computer network not owned invoices. lieves demonstrate high marks for and ASSOCIATE EDITOR DOROTHY CROUCH by a single entity. Its advocates consider it to be one Soni said that EDI can limit the number of par- business strategy. CONTRIBUTORS of the most secure forms of recordkeeping. ties communicating on a network. A blockchain can Soni claimed that it is harder to keep track of re- ALYSON BENDER VOLKER CORELL Since blockchain systems are set up on peer- expand it. “All data will flow seamlessly through tail operations since basic retail channels have ex- JOHN ECKMIER JOHN McCURRY to-peer networks, the only way to change a ledger the supply-chain upstream and downstream,” he panded and diversified in the past 15 years. Bricks- ESTEVAN RAMOS is to request approval from everybody else on the said. “It’s a more proactive approach to supply and-mortar operations typically are part of the same TIM REGAS N. JAYNE SEWARD network. Many believe that blockchains encourage chain when you need to know how much fabric to retail conglomerate as e-commerce, social-media HOPE WINSBOROUGH honesty and increased communication. buy. Or if you need to know how much inventory to commerce and mobile-phone commerce. NATALIE ZFAT \WEB PRODUCTION Soni said that his company is the first to offer a meet a future demand.” He contends that retail operations and their sup- MORGAN WESSLER well-rounded, holistic blockchain platform and is Blockchain’s detailed ledger makes it easy to ply chains can become unwieldy without a tool that CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR exactly what the supply chain needs to improve ef- trace when an event took place or where something can give executives a clear and commanding view LOUISE DAMBERG DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING ficiency and communication. was produced. It’s become a hip topic in business of their operations. The increased communications TERRY MARTINEZ “If you look at the supply-chain industry in gen- circles, and it is gaining a lot of momentum. Re- provided by his platforms, he maintains, can in- SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE AMY VALENCIA eral, no matter what vertical you’re in, whether it’s tailers such as Walmart worked with a blockchain crease productivity and can cut the time a product ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fashion or medicine, the supply-chain industry has platform developed by IBM last year to track let- reaches market by five days. LYNNE KASCH Omnichain has been working with fashion cli- BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT not innovated since 1985 with the advent of EDI,” tuce and other leafy greens from farm to store shelf. MOLLY RHODES Soni said of Electronic Data Interchange, a form Trade associations such as the Blockchain in ents such as RomperJack as well as the SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST of electronic communication that has been used Transport Alliance started operations in August company Breda and the dairy-free snacks com- SERGIO ESPELETA GUILLEN ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS by major retailers to record purchase orders and 2017 to put together industry standards for block- pany Ruby Rockets.—Andrew Asch ASHLEY KOHUT CHRIS MARTIN RACHEL MARTINEZ SALES ASSISTANT RETAIL PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE JEFFERY YOUNGER & RESOURCE SECTION Macy’s Hopes New Concept Will Reinvent Its Retail Experience JUNE ESPINO PRODUCTION MANAGER KENDALL IN Macy’s Inc. is rolling out a new store within a Great Recession and a mounting challenge from EDITORIAL DESIGNER JOHN FREEMAN FISH store called Story at Macy’s, which is debuting at digital commerce. FINANCE 36 Macy’s locations across the country. The shop Story relied on whimsy and novelty to attract DAVID MARTINEZ is the latest chapter in Macy’s multiyear effort to consumers. According to the company’s website, CREDIT MANAGER reinvent its 640 department stores. it sold like a retailer but changed frequently like RITA O’CONNOR The Story unveiling started on April 10 at se- an art gallery and curated themes like a magazine. lect Macy’s across the country, including Cali- Story reinvented the look of its stores and how PUBLISHED BY fornia locations at South Coast Plaza in Costa it changed its merchandise every month to two TLM PUBLISHING INC. Mesa, Fashion Island in Newport Beach, Union months. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: Square in San Francisco and Westfield Valley The first theme for Story at Macy’s is Color. California Apparel News Fair in Santa Clara. David Stark Design and The shop will feature clothes from children’s Waterwear Production crafted unique looks at the stores, brands Primary and Levi’s Kids. Other brands Decorated EXECUTIVE OFFICE which average 1,500 square feet and feature de- will include Crayola crayons, MAC ’ California Market Center 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777

tails such as faux-fur columns. The idea behind CARLOS DELGADO/AP IMAGES FOR MACY’S “Make Your Own” palette stations and candy bars Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 the store is that the store designs and merchandise A new Story at Macy’s at South Coast Plaza from Compartes. (213) 627-3737 change every two months. In a recent statement, Shechtman said that Sto- Fax (213) 623-5707 Classified Advertising Fax In recent years, Macy’s has been experiment- undisclosed amount from Story Founder Rachel ry was to be driven by a new sense of shopping. (213) 623-1515 ing with other retail concepts. In 2015, it intro- Shechtman, who was hired to be Macy’s brand “The Story at Macy’s experience feels a lot like a www.apparelnews.net duced its off-price Backstage stores in more than experience officer and to shape the Macy’s expe- real-life version of scrolling through Instagram. [email protected]

120 Macy’s. Beauty store Bluemercury joined rience outside of Story shops. You discover things you weren’t looking for but PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Macy’s in 2015 and has expanded as stand-alone Shechtman gained notoriety when she started are inspired by all the fun finds—the second you stores as well as Bluemercury sections inside Ma- Story in ’s Chelsea neighborhood in see it, you need it! We aspire to create that feeling cy’s stores. There are currently 163 Bluemercury 2011. Her novel merchandising sense inspired a with the breadth of the narrative-driven merchan- stores. bricks-and-mortar retail market still reeling from dise edit we are bringing to life with the launch of Macy’s acquired Story in May 2018 for an the effects of a deep industry downturn during the Story at Macy’s across the country.”—A.A. Resource Guide includes Antex Premier Performance, a line of high-performance, the knowledge, ability, and resources to plant more efficiently and technical fabrics with moisture management, anti-microbial, stain T-SHIRTS effectively than we would on our own. At our website, www.dohp.com, PERFORMANCE/ACTIVE/ resistant, or UV finishes; and Matchmaster Prints by Antex California, one can find where we’ve planted, how many we’ve planted, and a link offering design and development of custom prints. Please contact to our non-profit partners. We believe that one day when we’re all gone, ATHLEISURE RESOURCES [email protected]. D.O.H.P. Sustainable T-Shirts it will be our children who will take over and care for the soil—thus our 29835 Cantera Drive name, Decorate Our Home Planet. Antex Knitting Mills Hayward, CA 94544 Hyosung/Creora Contact: David Galindo div. of Matchmaster www.creora.com (510) 754-8523 Hyosung is a comprehensive fiber manufacturer which produces https://dohp.com/ Dyeing & Finishing Inc. world-class products, providing innovation and solutions to the textile [email protected] 3750 S. Broadway Place industry. Only by Hyosung, creora® is the world’s largest spandex IG: @d_o_h_p Los Angeles, CA 90007 brand, suppling the broadest range of stretch fiber offerings supported Products and Services: Decorate Our Home Planet is a men’s green (323) 232-2061 by exceptional technology and quality. Mipan® nylon and specialty streetwear company that seeks to redefine the term “sustainable Fax: (323) 233-7751 provide functional and sustainable fiber solutions that are apparel.” We use Earth-friendly materials in the construction of all [email protected] essential to today’s dynamic textile market. Hyosung is honored to of our garments, such as recycled plastic bottles, recycled cotton, Contact: Bill or Anna Tenenblatt have five of its fabrics nominated for 2019 ISPO Textrend in the Street and organic hemp, all while maintaining a high standard of design, This listing is provided as a free service to our Products and Services: Antex Knitting Mills, a privately owned verti- Sport, Eco Era, and Base Layer categories. Among them is our thermal comfort, and durability. D.O.H.P. strives to keep our entire supply chain advertisers. We regret that we cannot be responsible for regulating scuba fabric, using our aeroheat thermal technology and local because we believe that American workers’ well-being is just as cal knitting, dyeing, and printing company in Los Angeles, announces any errors or omissions within the Resource Guide. capability of providing full-package garments produced in California creora® Power fit high power and heat-resistance spandex, which has important as the environment. In addition, D.O.H.P. plants 3 trees for or Central America to meet your varied needs. Antex’s product line been elected Top 10 of the Street Sport category. every garment manufactured as a means of giving back to the planet. We’ve partnered with tree-planting, non-profit organizations that have

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 12–18, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

09.tech.advert.indd 9 4/11/19 6:31 PM CLASSIFIEDS

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For classified information, contact Jeffery Younger at 213-627-3737 ext. 280 or [email protected]

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•WE BUY ALL FABRICS AND GARMENTS FOR LEASE WE BUY ALL FAB RICS AND GAR MENTS. No lot too small or large. In clud ing sam ple room Hyperlink CREATIVE OFFICE SPACE in ven to ries , , Denim, Knits, Prints, LA FASHION DISTRICT Solids Ap parel and home fur nish ings fab rics. your ad f We also buy ladies', men's & chil dren's 213-627-3754 gar ments. Con tact: Michael or best result STONE HAR BOR (323) 277-2777

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