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Languedoc: Potential Realized With Old Vines, Authentic and Superlative Growing Conditions, the Word is Out BY kristen bieler

mediterranean SEA

t’s ironic that the region in France arguably best suited for -grow- ing—and its largest region by a lot—has long been held responsible Ifor the country’s worst . Yet the Languedoc’s centuries-old reputation for bad bulk has been seriously chal- ($40), it’s an exceptionally dense, con- lenged in the past decade by ambi- centrated red that has already sold out. tious local vintners as well as a slew of roussillon has Roussillon is not a well-established imported talent. much in common source for dry ; it’s known for “I have been stunned by the quality sweet, fortified vin doux. The fact that relative to the price of the wines with spain just Roussillon is left off of the region’s ab- from the Languedoc,” says Michael across the border; breviated name (technically, it’s the Madrigale, at New York’s both are hot and Languedoc-Roussillon) further dimin- Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud. “I’ve long ishes its profile, when in fact this area is known about the great wines from Mas dry, with generating much of the excitement for Jullien, Granges des Pères and Domaine as the main grape Languedoc as a whole. In many respects, Peyre Rose, but now it seems the quality Roussillon has more in common with is everywhere. It’s difficult to keep up.” Spain just across the border. Both are On both lists, Madrigale has about 25 among others) made his first Languedoc hot, dry regions with Grenache as the different Languedoc wines. wines in 2007 from neglected 70-year leading grape. Consumers are taking note, too: old , Grenache, and Grenache Rhône Valley based Imports of Languedoc AOC wines to Gris near the tiny town of Michel calls Roussillon “as the U.S. grew by 38% in 2010. While Maury. Production of his Clos Thales close as you can get to Spain” while still that growth is mostly in the value sector, label is small—as few as 28 cases for being in France. He started buying up there is a small, but high profile number some single- wines—but the at- land in the Banyuls 15 years of new boutique bottlings coming out of tention he has received from critics and ago, intrigued by the soil he found— this vast Mediterranean region, in large retailers created big buzz for the region “it was like Hermitage, one of the only part due to the transplant community and others have followed. places in France where in such a small of maverick from all Dave Phinney, creator of Napa Val- place you have four geological types over France and the world, including ley’s Orin Swift and The Prisoner labels, with schist, gniess, clay, and in higher several Americans. purchased 200 acres near Maury where elevations, granite,” he explains. “My he constructed an ultra-modern wine- idea was to invest in some of the vine- Old Vines Attract making facility. His first wine—made in yards on amazing soils, farm biodynami- New Investors 2009 from old Grenache vines that were cally and bring down the yield.” His first Lured by Roussillon’s ancient vines, soon to be torn out—is called D 66, after reds under his Bila-Haut label are made Abe Schoener of California’s Scholium the region’s department number. Classi- from single vineyard blends of , Project (famous for his small lot cuvées fied as a humble Vins de Pay des Côtes Grenache and Carignan and hit the of Syrah, Verdehlo and Petite Sirah,

Catalanes with a less humble price tag U.S. market in 2011. Photo courtesy of Sud de France, Festival winefocus

Locals Embrace A Modern Style Roussillon old-timer Château de Jau, built in 1792 in the southernmost foot- hills of the Corbières Mountains, is still owned by founding Dauré family. Com- mercial Director, Tom Warner has spent over a decade in the region and has seen

its transformation first hand: “Langue- Vineyards in La Clape with doc is one of the largest wine-producing winemakers, the group self-imposed the Mediterranean in the distance. regions in the world. Because it was so rigorous vineyard management and dominated by the cooperative winemak- vinification standards in 1992. They from an 86-acre estate to a 440-acre ing system, it underperformed for de- have been forward-thinking marketers, enterprise with 2,000 additional acres cades. In the last 15 years, winemakers as well: VVO’s flagship brand, St. Martin, under contract—generates nearly $30 have recognized the potential here and was one of the first French labels to list million in annual sales. Perhaps more the focus is now on answering interna- variety rather than appellation, and its impressive, however, is the way Mas has tional consumer demand with a fresher, Cuvée Mythique, a wine created for the embraced both the traditional and the fruitier more vibrant style of wine.” U.S. market in 1990, was an instant modern: “From the Old World, I learn Though Château de Jau’s wines have success in spite of its $25 price tag. to adopt a ‘peasant mentality’ when it never been of the mass-market type, the VVO is introducing another premium comes to vineyard management and re- embraced a more modern style wine, Château de Lunes, in the U.S. specting the terroir. What I learn from with their le Jaja de Jau line of varietal this month. the New World is how to evolve with wines launched in 1991 (SRP: $9-$10) Consisting of 1,500 growers and 60 the tastes of today’s consumer.” which are “ready-to-drink with good domaines, VVO owns more vineyard “The Languedoc is an indulgent color and low tannins,” Warner says. land “than the surface area of Paris,” place blessed by the gods—one doesn’t (The Dauré family also owns a win- reports CEO Bertrand Girard, and have to work to grow here, the ery in Chile, where they learned a lot produces 70 million bottles annually. vines grow so easily on their own,” he about New World .) At the “There were 500,000 hectares of vines explains. “We lack a fine wine culture family’s second estate, Les Clos de in the Languedoc 30 years ago—today but we are learning fast. Winemakers Paulilles in Banyuls—the largest pri- there are 220,000,” says Girard. “Vine- here have the opportunity to produce vate estate in that region—Warner has yards are smaller and yields are rela- the best value wines for money in the decreased production of vin doux and tively low—people don’t realize that the world, particularly in the $10 to $20 upped the output of dry reds by 40%, Languedoc overall has lower yields than range.” Another missing piece of the also to be in tune with demand in the many places in the world, including puzzle is marketing, believes Mas, in- international market. Chile, Australia and California.” sisting that the Languedoc must follow At VVO’s brand new $20 million in the footsteps of Australia and Chile The Co-op Comeback high-tech winery, the focus is on “fruit when it comes to branding. In this vein, Massive cooperative long de- extraction and a rounder taste profile— Mas in 2005 launched Arrogant Frog, fined the Languedoc’s winemaking land- the sort of wines that young consumers a line of whimsically labeled varietal scape, but in today’s fiercely competitive expect,” says Girard. “We know how wines priced at $10; it now accounts for market, they have been forced to evolve to produce classic wines for the French 30% of his production. or shut down. “The flagging coopera- market that our fathers want to drink, Château d’Aussières also straddles tives still making traditional wines are but for the rest of the world, we had the old-new divide. The 1,300-acre es- disappearing,” says Warner. “Today’s to adjust.” tate in Corbières has made wine since consumer knows what he wants and Roman times; the Barons de Rothschild there is no longer room for big co-ops At the Crossroads of of legendary Château Lafite fame -pur that haven’t changed.” Old and New chased it in 1999. The estate has land Les Vignerons du Val d’Orbieu Jean-Claude Mas, a fourth generation in AOC Corbières and some in Vins de (VVO) was one of the first cooperatives winemaker, took the helm at his family’s Pays territory—the Rothschilds planted to commit to quality production. 19th-century estate, Domaines Paul Mas, traditional grapes like Carignan, Gren- Founded in 1967 by a small group of in 2000. His wine empire—which went ache and Syrah in the former, and in- Photo courtesy of Gilles Deschamps winefocus

ternationals , and Cabernet in the latter. “When we started, it was a difficult sell,” recalls Eric Kohler, the winemak- er/director. “Today we see a lot of rec- ognition for these wines and sales are rapidly increasing.” The estate makes 12,000 cases of the top wine, 30,000 of the second wine; of the VdP, volumes are an impressive 80,000 cases. The tions are not a viable sell in the states.” Languedoc’s reputation as primarily Colombo’s La Violette wines from the a region for value wines isn’t entirely Languedoc—a and a Syrah— bad, says Kohler. “Being known for very were introduced in 2003 and retail for high quality with very reasonable prices just under $14. makes for a very strong business.” Warner is convinced the Mediter- ranean varieties will only become more International important as the region’s reputation im- vs. Native Grapes proves: “We have come full circle from Domaines Paul Mas and Château simple wines from our native grapes d’Aussières take a two-pronged ap- to exploring Chardonnay, Sauvignon proach typical of medium-sized pro- Blanc and Merlot, and then realizing Jean Claude Mas (left) crafts two tiers of wines with very different styles; the sub-region ducers in Languedoc: craft two tiers that the climate here is ideal for our tra- of Malepère. of wines. One is fashioned primarily ditional grapes and the consumer likes on local grapes—Carignan, Grenache, these well-made, fruit-dominant spicy lation system so we are competing with Mourvèdre and Syrah that thrive in the Mediterranean wines.” international wines—France’s problem hot Mediterranean sun—with a focus for the past 20 years has been that it’s on terroir; and the second is a line-up Building Regional competing against itself.” of competitively-priced international Awareness varietal wines which emphasize fruit. Part of the problem is that until recently, The Year of Languedoc Mas believes there is room for both: “If the Languedoc didn’t have a clear or For Bill Terlato of Terlato Wines Inter- you are at a scale like us, the bread and helpful appellation system. In attempt national, who recently partnered with butter will always be our international to raise the status of certain high-per- Michel Chapoutier to produce a red varietal range, Arrogant Frog,” says Mas. forming regions, in July, a new appella- and white blend in Languedoc under “We also produce beautiful traditional tion system for the region was confirmed the Marius label, it’s simply a question wines under the Paul Mas label—these by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des of quality and price: “We blind taste wines will always be a smaller part of the Vins du Languedoc (CIVL). It desig- against a range of competitive prod- market, but they help us build our im- nates wines as “Grands Crus du Langue- ucts within the relative price range, age” says Mas. “They appeal to consum- doc” and “Grands Vins du Languedoc” which we believe is more important ers with palate maturity, the leaders of using already established regions. AOCs and relevant than the varietal or re- the wine business.” which are fully approved as Grands gion of origin. The Marius wines repre- Ian Ribowsky, portfolio manager Crus are Corbières Boutenac, Minervois sent a remarkable quality and value for for Jean-Luc Colombo’s wines (another la Livinière, Saint Chinian Berlou and the price.” Rhône-based winemaker lured by the Saint Chinian Roquebrun; there are six Combine that with the new inter- sunny south) believes varietal wines are more waiting approval. est Mas has witnessed in the U.S. from an easier proposition in the U.S. until Described as a “marketing effort consumers and distributors. “France has Languedoc become more which will shape the region for the next become sexy again,” he believes—and highly regarded; “France clearly sees 15 years and an effort to provide clarity with the outstanding 2011 , the the opportunity to move toward varietal to the consumer as to what Languedoc Languedoc is on track for an even bigger wines that over-deliver. Their tradition- AOC wines have to offer,” it is a criti- boost in the next year. “If we can’t make al wines are still important but only for cal move in the right direction, believes great wines this year, we should all plant the more visible ones as many appella- Warner: “We need to simplify our appel- tomatoes,” Mas concludes. n