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Home , Arrondissement of Prades, Assignan, Aubun, Banyuls AOC, Berlou, Capestang

- 235 LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

The 1990s saw an influx of Australian , who have since played a not insignificant role in the raising of standards; but the sale in 2003 of the Australian-owned Domaine de la Baume could signal a swing back to a more homegrown stimulus. Domaine de la Baume is not significant in terms of the total production of this region, but there is no denying that its purchase by BRL Hardy in 1990, at the beginning of Australia’s inexorable success on export markets, gave local producers a psychological boost. AT BAGES The Mediterranean coastal vineyards of the Côtes du Roussillon, IN A STRANGE WAY, the presence of a top Australian group was around , are reputed to be some of the hottest in . viewed as a seal of approval for local winemakers, just as the presence of Moët & Chandon in Australia had been seen by that country’s sparkling winemakers. It was all a matter of timing: Australian were Tarn du es Florac surging, French wines were slowing down, D911 or g N G Pont-St-Esprit 9 D LOZERE la Grand- 980 and the south was all potential, with very D996 Combe D9 N106 few taking advantage of it. le Rozier D904 BAGNOLS- SUR-CEZE And vins de pays were not, as yet, ALÈS MILLAU D6 D986 St-Jean- D907 a force to be reckoned with. du-Gard N86 Réquista BRL Hardy, or Hardy’s as it rn St-Rome- D981 Ta de-Tarn Uzès la Cavalerie GARD D999 le Vigan was known then, was St-Affrique A St-Hippolyte- VILLENEUVE-LES- 75 du-Fort N106 G D981 D999 110 ar leading the Australian D999 N do D999 n N100 Ganges Quissac A9 t V 6 l charge on global D8 AVEYRON i Alban u d 268 Gorges et Côtes a o r u Nîmes é N570 D986 r exports, and yet it de Millau H le St-Martin- Tarascon saw sufficient TARN Fayet D902 de-Londres Pic St-Loup Sommières Beaucaire Langlade D D40 99 12 D9 848 A54 Clairette de promise in a small D D32 St.-Drézéry St-Christol 113 Lacaune Vérargues N Bellegarde St-Saturnin Montpeyroux domaine in an D922 Lunel Vauvert 1124 A75 286 Castries 72 ARLES D622 Clairette du Gignac N5 Bédarieux Lunel-Viel Languedoc St-Georges- la Méjanelle St-Gilles BOUCHES CASTRES Ag Clermont- D979 out D908 d'Orques 10 D570 D907 l'Hérault D621 702 Cabrières D62 DURHONEN568 Faugères Aigues-Mortes R MAZAMET h D622 112 D35 N ô Labastide-Rouairoux Saint- n Chinian HÉRAULTN113 e D118 Pézenas D629 N112 D36D909 D907 St-Chinian Mèze les N9 799 O Pinet Frontignan Saintes-Maries- Martys r Port-St-Louis- 286 N112 b de-la-Mer D624 Côtes du Saint-Jean BÉZIERS SÈTE du-Rhône N312 Cabardes de Minervois D51 D11 15 et de l'Orbiel Caunes D5 A61 N113 Minervois al i 54 n Mid A9 A 6 a du Golfe du Lion D C u Cap d'Agde Trèbes d Prouille e Valras-Plage Lezignan- Corbières la Clape PARIS N623 see also D119 A61 LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, p.55 Mirepoix D613 69 Quatourze This is the largest wine-producing region in H D611 e r s Côtes de u France, with vineyards stretching from the 799 ie la Malepère rb Villerouge- ARIÈGE O Termenes Camargue to the Spanish border, including 772 3 Lavelanet Arques D61 596 what used to be the Midi. D27 D117 and A9 Grand Rousillon Port- Villages entitled to add their names to the Coteaux du Languedoc Côtes du Roussillon Villages D117 D118 St-Paul-de Villages entitled to add their names to Aude Fenouillet Maury Latour-de-France the Côtes du Rousillon appellation 1843 PERPIGNAN Canet-Plage and Banyuls Ille-sur-Têt D617 Minervois Têt Prades Limoux N116 D612 Coteaux du Languedoc PYRENÉESORIENTALES Other AOC regions Pic du ch 3 Costières de Nîmes Département boundary D618 Te N114 Port- Mont-Louis 2784 1256 Height above sea level (meters) N116 Corbières 2702 Prats-de- D115 Mollo-la-Preste Cerbère 0 10 20 30 miles La Jonquera Port-Bou A17 Côtes du Roussillon 0 10 20 30 40 50 km 236 FRANCE unknown part of France to be sidetracked into purchasing it cheaper than and far superior to medium-priced wines bearing outright. The next few years saw the rise of vins de pays, the most famous French . particularly d’Oc, including those of Domaine de la When BRL Hardy sold Domaine de la Baume to Les Grands Baume, which became a commercial success on the UK market, Chais in 2003, the Australians left this wine region in a far better against the tide for most other inexpensive French wines. During commercial position than they found it 13 years earlier; so the this time, there was an internationalization of varieties and French in general, and Les Grands Chais in particular, have no wine styles in the south of France, and, barring some unfortunate excuse if they fail to take Languedoc-Roussillon to the next level experiments in the late 1970s and the 1980s, this development of success. That will require a twin philosophy that does not was far from regrettable. restrict the planting of classic and yet encourages a Some French producers had started putting their own houses resurgence of the most interesting local varieties. in order long before the BRL Hardy purchased Domaine de la Baume. Indeed, a number of domaines began bottling their own wines in the late 1970s, when the government’s vins de pays FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY program was encouraging quality-conscious growers to reduce yields. The problem was that there were never enough LOCATION AND “quality-conscious” growers. But those who were formed a HA crescent of vineyards situated JVINIFICATION new generation of elite winemakers. They combined modern in southern France between the This remains the great vin Rhône to the east and the ordinaire region of France, where technology with the best traditional practices, including the use to the southwest. everything is mechanized and the of some aging with new , to create exciting new wines in the vines of the plain are farmed like CLIMATE early 1980s. As other growers observed the vastly increased prices wheat or corn. There is a trend FThe Mediterranean-influenced that their pioneering neighbors were attracting, more of them toward developing single-domaine climate is generally well suited to vineyards that have potentially switched from selling in bulk to domaine-bottling, and it was the cultivation of the vine, although expressive , growing classic this potential that attracted the Australians. it is subject to occasional stormy varieties and combining various It was thus the French who created the newfound pride in weather. Two winds dominate: the traditional methods with modern cold and parching Mistral, which this region, but it was the Australians who grabbed the limelight, techniques. Limoux still practices blows down from the heights of the the ancient méthode rurale—in focusing international attention on the fabulous potential. It is Alpine glaciers, and the wet and Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale almost possible to give consumers an iron-clad guarantee that if warm Marin, which comes in from AOC (see below)—although the they buy ultrapremium cuvées from Languedoc-Roussillon they the sea and can cause rot at majority of the wines are pure time. There are many microclimates will not only be delighted with the wines, but they will also be and sold under in this collection of isolated vine- the new crémant appellation. growing areas. GRAPE VARIETIES ASPECT RECENT LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON GAspiran Noir, Gris, EFamous for its unending tracts Aubun (syn. Counoise), 2003 Higher-altitude appellations, such as Pic-St.-Loup, have fared of flat, vin ordinaire vineyards that (known in some areas stretch across the vast plains; the as Malvoisie or ), Cabernet best, but it will be a mishmash of good, bad, and ugly elsewhere, best sites of Languedoc-Roussillon, with a very small scattering of stunning reds. Franc, , , however, mostly occupy south-, Carignan Blanc, Cinsault, Clairette, southeast-, and east-facing 2002 The year of the floods, with only those areas that escaped , , , Grenache and hillsides, or nestle beneath Blanc, Grenache Gris, Lladoner (essentially western and southern extremities, and higher-altitude protective overhanging cliffs. vineyards) managing to produce a decent quality. Pelut, Listan Negra (the black version of ’s ), , 2001 The best year all around since 1998, with excellent quality DIn general terms, the plains and Macabéo, , , achieved in all styles. valleys have rich alluvial , while Mourvèdre, d’Alexandrie, the hillsides are schist or limestone Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat 2000 A good, but not great, year in which Roussillon generally fared and the garrigues, or former Doré de Frontignan, Muscat better than Languedoc. moorlands, are comprised of stony, à Petits Grains, Négrette, Oeillade, carbonaceous soils over fissured Picpoul, Picpoul Noir, , 1999 An average year except for Corbières and Minervois, which limestone. However, specific , , , Ugni excelled and in some cases produced wines of the decade. situations vary enormously. Blanc, (syn. Rolle).

THE APPELLATIONS OF LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Note In the following entries, a wine described as BANYULS AOC fruitiness, which is the nearest France gets to vin doux naturel a (or VDN) is made from very The most southerly appellation in France, the the great wines of Portugal’s Douro region. It ripe grapes and fortified with pure grape spirit after vineyards of this vin doux naturel are literally lacks the fire of a great port, but has its own its fermentation has reached 5 or 6 percent. It has immense charm. After 15 to 20 years in bottle a the natural sweetness of the grape. To be labeled a stone’s throw from those of Spain. The vines are grown on precipitous slopes of schist great Banyuls develops a curious but wonderful “Rancio” a VDN must be stored in oak casks complexity that falls somewhere between the “according to local custom,” which often means where man and mule have great difficulty in maintaining a foothold, mechanization is out porty-plummy, dried-fruit spice of a mature exposing the barrels to direct sunlight for a port and the coffee-caramel, nutty- minimum of two years. This imparts the distinctive of the question, yields are extremely low, and raisiny smoothness of a fine old tawny. rancio flavor that is so prized in Roussillon. ripeness very high. You will often see “rimage” Depending on the color of the original wine, the on labels; this word is derived from the Catalan k10–40 years wine technique used, and how long it has been rime, or “grape,” and refers to the vintage. aged, the style of the wine produced varies; it WHITE/ROSÉ/TAWNY Like all VDNs that may can be red, white, rosé, or tawny. RED This is the deepest and darkest of all be made in red, white, and rosé style, they can VDNs. A rich, sweet, red Banyuls (without too all turn tawny with time, particularly “rancio” much barrel-age) has a chocolaty, bottled- wines. LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON 237 gAll wines: a minimum of 50% Grenache, allowing Limoux to capitalize on its historical plus Grenache Gris, , value and individual wines’ reputation. Macabéo, Tourbat, Muscat Blanc à Petits gMauzac Grains, Muscat d’Alexandrie, and a tSieur d’Arques (Dame d’Arques) maximum 10% (in total) of Carignan, Cinsault, and Syrah CABARDÈS AOC k10–20 years An obscure appellation north of Carcassonne, tLe Dominican (Hanicotte) • C. V. l’Étoile these wines were once sold as Côtes du (Extra Vieux) • Du Mas Blanc • De la Cabardès et de l’Orbiel VDQS, but this hardly Tour Vieille • Du Traginer Y (Rimage tripped off the tongue, thus the shortened form Mis Tardive) was in common usage long before the appellation was promoted to full AOC status BANYULS GRAND AOC in 1999, when the encépagement changed. The requirements are the same as for Banyuls RED The best wines have elegant fruit and a RED These deep, dark, and powerful wines AOC, but a minimum of 75 percent Grenache leaner, more -like balance than most have a full and concentrated fruit flavor, with a is required. The grapes must be destemmed and of the warmer, spicy-ripe southern French reds. soft, spicy aftertaste. macerated for a minimum of five days and the gAt least 40% Grenache and Syrah, plus a gAt least 60% (in total) of Grenache, wine matured in oak for at least 30 months. minimum of 40% , Cabernet Mourvèdre, and Syrah (no variety may The wines are similar in character to those of Sauvignon, and Merlot (Aubun and Carignan exceed 90%), plus Cinsault and no more the basic, although not at all ordinary, Banyuls are no longer allowed) than 30% Carignan (Grenache Gris is no longer allowed) appellation, but in terms of classic port styles, k3–8 years they veer more toward the tawny than vintage. k2–10 years ROSÉ A rich, fruity, well-colored rosé. tL’Abbé Rous (Christian Reynal) • L’Étoile WHITE These wines had to be sold as Vin gAt least 40% Grenache and Syrah, plus a (Réserve) • Cellier des Templiers de Pays de la Côte Vermeille until 2002, when minimum of 40% Cabernet Franc, Cabernet white Collioure was first allowed. BANYULS GRAND CRU Sauvignon, and Merlot (Aubun and Carignan are no longer allowed) gMinimum of 70% in total of Grenache Blanc “RANCIO” AOC and/or Grenache Gris, plus a maximum of kBetween 2–3 years See Banyuls Grand Cru AOC 30% in total (and individually a maximum tChâteau de La Bastide (L’Esprit) • Claude et of 15%) of Malvoisie, , Marsanne, Michelle Carayol (Cabrol Vent d’Est) • Rousanne, and Velmentino BANYULS “RANCIO” AOC Château de (L’Esprit) • Château k1–3 years See Banyuls AOC Ventenac (Le Carla) ROSÉ I have not encountered these wines. BLANQUETTE CLAIRETTE gAt least 60% (in total) of Grenache, Mourvèdre, DE LIMOUX AOC DE BELLEGARDE AOC and Syrah (no variety may exceed 90%), plus Cinsault and no more than 30% Carignan Although this always has been a surprisingly When compared with all the best vins de pays, (Grenache Gris is no longer allowed) good traditional method wine for such sunny this appellation, which is dedicated to the southern vineyards, the best Blanquette de lowly, intrinsically flabby Clairette grape, does kUpon purchase Limoux have improved by leaps and bounds not deserve to be a VDQS, let alone an AOC. tChâteau des Abelles • Du Mas Blanc (Les over the past decade, moving away from a WHITE Unimpressive dry white wines. Junquets) • Mas Cornet • Celliers des Templiers (Abbaye de Valbonne) • De la somewhat rustic bubbly to a much finer style, gClairette although not to the degree of finesse possible Tour Vieille (Puig Oriol) • Du Traginer in a Crémant de Limoux. Some may regret its kBefore Christmas of the year of production (Octobre) loss of individuality (more so for the Crémant CLAIRETTE appellation) and this is to a certain extent a true CORBIÈRES AOC loss, but Limoux must adopt a more refined DU LANGUEDOC AOC When this appellation was elevated to full AOC style if it is to compete in the international The appellation of Clairette du Languedoc status in December 1985, its area of production premium sparkling-wine market. Although we covers three basic wine types. These are was practically halved to its current realm of should not overstate the case, the best of these natural, fortified, and rancio. The rancio must 57,000 acres (23,000 hectares). The top estates wines still retain a sufficiently distinctive style be aged in sealed casks for at least three years, often use macération carbonique, followed by to stand out in any blind tasting. This has been and can be produced in both natural and 12 months or so in new oak and the results can assured by the component, which rose fortified styles. be stunning. The only problem appears to be from optional to a minimum of 90 percent WHITE The is fuller and richer the difficulty of projecting any characteristic when the Crémant appellation was introduced. than Bellegarde, but has more alcohol and style, especially as there is such a great diversity SPARKLING WHITE These wines used to less sweetness in its rancio form. The fortified of terroirs in the appellation. have the distinctive aroma of fresh-cut grass, version is off-dry to medium-sweet, with a This has led to the unofficial formation of but are now developing finer, more flowery, resinous flavor that is stronger in rancio 11 internal zones: (central-north of autolytic aromas. character than the natural white. Corbières, Mourvèdre apparently does well); gMauzac, , gClairette Durban (wedged between the two hilly k1–3 years (up to 12 for vintages) k1–3 years for naturally fermented wines, halves of Fitou, this zone is cut off from any tAntech (Flascon des Maïstre) • Robert 8–20 years for fortified wines and Mediterranean influence); Fontfroide (extending (Dame Robert, Maistre Blanquetïers) • Sieur rancio wines from the northern tip of Durban to the western d’Arques (Aimery Princesse) tSaint Rome (Moelleux) outskirts of Narbonne, this zone has a very low rainfall and is well suited to Mourvèdre); BLANQUETTE MÉTHODE CLAIRETTE DU LANGUEDOC Lagrasse (protected limestone valley vineyards ANCESTRALE AOC “RANCIO” AOC immediately west of Boutenac); Lézignan (a low plateau of gravelly vineyards in the most See Formerly called Vin de Blanquette, but still Clairette du Languedoc AOC northerly zone of Corbières); Montagne d’Alaric produced by the ancient méthode rurale, this (northerly zone just west of Lézignan, with wine was apparently invented by the monks at COLLIOURE AOC vines growing on well-drained slopes of gravel the abbey of St.-Hilaire in 1531. An obscure but exciting appellation for over limestone); Quéribus (most southerly zone, SPARKLING WHITE These succulently sweet unfortified wines from normally harvested with vineyards on high, stony slopes); St.-Victor sparkling wines are a hedonist’s dream and grapes grown in Banyuls, the eponymous (the very heart of Corbières); Serviès (the should be far more commercially available. The wine of which is made from only the ripest, northwestern perimeter, the wettest zone, with ancient méthode rurale should be perfected so late-picked (but not botrytized) grapes. The calcareous-clay soils particularly well suited to that prestige cuvées can be sold at a premium, encépagement changed in 2003. Syrah); Sigean (the coastal strip of Corbières, 238 FRANCE where Syrah performs best); Termenès (the Cinsault, a minimum of 25% Grenache, and represent at least 10% of the entire blend), western perimeter, between Serviès and at least 20% (in total or each) of Mourvèdre no more than 40% of either Carignan or Quéribus, with the highest vineyards in and Syrah Cinsault, plus a maximum of 10% (in total) the appellation). The encépagement changed k2–3 years (average wines), 3–8 years Bourboulenc, Carignan Blanc, Clairette, in 2003. (better cuvées) Counoise, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabéo, Picpoul, Picpoul Noir, Marsanne, RED These wines have an excellent color, a WHITE Fresh, soft, but uninspiring. These Roussanne, , Terret Noir, Ugni full, spicy-fruity nose, and a creamy-clean, soft wines may be sold from December 1 following Blanc, and Vermentino palate that often hints of cherries, raspberries, the harvest without any mention of primeur and vanilla. or . k1–2 years gA minimum of 50% of Grenache, Lladoner gBourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc tDe l’Aiguelière • Mas de Bayle (Grande Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus Carignan, (maximum 30%), Ugni Blanc, plus Macabéo, Cuvée) • Château Chenaie (Le Douves Picpoul Noir, Terret, and a maximum of 20% Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino Blanches) • Château La Clotte-Fontaine (Mouton) • Château des Crès Ricards (Les Cinsault (Macabéo and Bourboulenc are no k1–2 years longer allowed) Hauts de Milési) • Dupéré-Barrera (Chien ROSÉ Good-value dry wine with a delightful k2–5 years (3–8 years in exceptional cases) de Prairie) • Château Daurion (Prestige color and ripe fruit. These wines may be sold Elevé en Fûts de Chêne) • C. V. La WHITE Soft, almost clinically clean, dry wines from December 1 following the harvest without Fontesole (Prieuré Saint-Hippolyte) • De that have acquired a more aromatic character in any mention of primeur or nouveau. Ganoupiac (Les Cresses) • Château Gres recent vintages—Château Meunier St.-Louis is gA maximum of 40% (each) of Carignan and Saint Paul (Antonin) • Mas Haut-Buis probably the best example—but many of the Cinsault, a minimum of 25% Grenache, at (Costa Caoude) • Virgile Joly (Virgile) • wines should be more expressive. There have least 20% (in total or each) of Mourvèdre Château de Lascaux (Les Secrets) • Mas been some successful experiments with oak and Syrah, plus up to 10% (in total) of Lumen (La Sylve) • Paul Mas • Château de fermentation. These wines may be sold from Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Montpezat (La Pharaonne) • Château de la December 1 following the harvest without any Ugni Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Macabéo, Négly (L’Ancely) • Peyre Rose Y • Prieuré mention of primeur or nouveau. and Rolle St.-Jean de Bébian • De Roquemale • C. V. g Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Macabéo, kWithin 1–2 years de Saint-Saturnin • Mas de la Seranne (Les Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino, plus tChâteau Amphoux (Les Galion des Crêtes Griottiers) • Le du Serres (Le Florilège) a maximum of 10% Clairette, Muscat Blanc à • De Serres Cabanis (Bos de Canna) • Les Petit Grains, Picpoul, and Terret Elevé en Fûts de Chêne) • Barbe-Caillette (Haut Jovis) • Château Grande Cassagne • Souls • Château Le Thou (Georges et Clem) k 1–3 years Château Lamargue (Aegidiane) • Château ROSÉ The best of these dry wines have an La Tour de Beraud • Château Tuilerie (Carte COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC attractive color and a pleasant, floral aroma, but Blanche) • Château de Valcombe (Garence) (VILLAGE NAME) AOC are nothing special. Except where stated, the wines bearing the gA minimum of 50% of Grenache, Lladoner COTEAUX names of the following villages conform to the Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus Carignan, DU LANGUEDOC AOC requirements of Coteaux du Languedoc AOC. Picpoul Noir, Terret Noir, a maximum of This appellation consists of a collection of areas 20% Cinsault, and no more than 10% strung out across three départements, which LES ASPRES AOC Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Macabéo, gives rise to a variation in style, but the quality Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino, plus New red-wine-only appellation as from the 2004 is remarkably consistent. After a decade of vintage, Les Aspres must be produced from at a maximum of 10% Clairette, Muscat Blanc à exciting developments, it is now the Petit Grains, Picpoul, and Terret least three varieties, with a minimum of 50 time for white wines to buzz. percent Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah (the last k1–3 years RED Full and honest red wines that make two varieties must represent at least 20 percent of tClos de L’Anhel • Des Chandelles • Clos excellent everyday drinking. These wines may the entire blend), plus a maximum of 20 percent Canos (Les Cocobirous) • Desmoiselles be sold as primeur or nouveau from the third Carignan. Too early to provide a critique. (Blanc de Blancs) • C. V. de (Elevé Thursday of November following the harvest. en Fûts de Chêne) • Château de gA minimum of 50% Grenache (itself limited CABRIÈRES AOC Mansenoble (Marie-Annick, Réserve) • C. V. to maximum of 40%), Lladoner Pelut, This is a single commune of steep schistous du Mont Ténarel d’Octaviana (Sextant) • Mourvèdre, and Syrah (these last two must slopes in the center of the Clairette du Château de Romilhac (Privilège) • Rouire- represent at least 10% of the entire blend), Languedoc subappellation. Cabrières’s Ségur (Vieilles Vignes) • Château la Voulte- no more than 40% of either Carignan or production is dominated by the local Gasparets (Romain Pauc) Cinsault, plus a maximum of 10% (in total) coopérative. This village produces mostly rosé: Counoise, Grenache Gris, Terret, and a fine, firm, and racy wine that contains more COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES AOC Picpoul Noir Cinsault than other Languedoc rosés. A little k1–4 years red is also produced, and its vin vermeil, so- WHITE Getting better by the day, some called because of its vivid vermilion color, wonderfully fresh, aromatic, dry white wines is best known. are being made by the appellation’s younger tDu Temple (Jacques de Molay) vignerons, often with a little new oak and not infrequently from very old vines. These wines LA CLAPE AOC may be sold from December 1 of the vintage These red, white, and rosé wines come from indicated without any mention of primeur vineyards on a limestone outcrop extending or nouveau. across five communes of the Aude département gBourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, where the appellations of Coteaux du Formerly a VDQS called Costières du Gard, Picpoul, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Languedoc and Corbières overlap. One of these wines have never been special, but most plus a maximum of 30% Macabéo, Terret only two whites allowed under the Coteaux have been better than many a lackluster wine Blanc, Carignan Blanc, and Ugni Blanc du Languedoc Villages appellation, it must be from far more famous appellations, and in this (growers may no longer plant Carignan made from at least 60 percent Bourboulenc and respect Costières de Nîmes well deserved its Blanc, Macabéo, or Ugni Blanc) Grenache Blanc. White La Clape can be full, promotion to AOC status in 1986. But since then ROSÉ These dry wines have good fruit and fine, and golden or firm, with an attractive the grape varieties permitted for all three styles— are far more enjoyable than many a pricey Mediterranean spice, and is generally more red, white, and rosé—have altered so radically rosé. These wines may be sold as expensive than the red. But the latter is easily that you have to wonder why they bother to primeur or nouveau from the third Thursday best, with its full, rich flavor and vin de garde have any controls whatsoever. of November following the harvest. style. The rosé is refreshing, light, and well RED Simple, light, fruity wines are the norm, gA minimum of 50% Grenache (itself limited worth seeking out. yet the best are round, aromatic, and spicy. to maximum of 40%), Lladoner Pelut, tFerri Arnaud (Romain Elevé en Fûts de gA maximum of 40% (each) Carignan and Mourvèdre, and Syrah (these last two must Chêne) • Château de la Négly (La Falaise) • LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON 239

Château Pech Redon • Château Rouquette- Clos Marie • Morties (Que Sera Sera) • Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache, sur-Mer (Henry Lapierre) Château Taurus-Montel (Prestige Elevé and Lladoner Pelut (Syrah is no en Fûts de Chêne) longer allowed) COTEAUX DE LA MÉJANELLE AOC k3–7 years See La Méjanelle AOC QUATOURZE AOC ROSÉ These attractive dry wines are totally These sandy-soil vineyards just south of different from the reds, due to the greater use COTEAUX DE ST.-CHRISTOL AOC Narbonne overlap the Corbières appellation, but and mellow effect of Grenache. See St.-Christol AOC the wines, mostly red with some rosé, are rather gA minimum of 70% Cabernet Franc, stern and four-square, although the best can fill Cinsault, and Grenache, plus optional COTEAUX DE VÉRARGUES AOC out and soften up with a few years in bottle. I Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, have tasted nothing recommendable from this and Syrah (Lladoner Pelut is no longer See Vérargues AOC village since the last edition. allowed, and growers must not plant any more Syrah) GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER AOC ST.-CHRISTOL AOC k1–3 years New red-wine-only appellation as from the Just north of Lunel, the calcareous-clay soil of tChâteau de Barthe • Girard (Neri) • 2002 vintage, Grès de Montpellier effectively St.-Christol produces ripe, spicy, well-balanced Château Guilhem (Prestige) • Château encompasses the Coteaux du Languedoc red and rosé wines that may also be sold as Guiraud Villages designations of St.-Christol, St.-Drézéry, Coteaux de St.-Christol AOC. The local St.-Georges-d’Orques, and Vérargues. It must coopérative dominates production. be produced from at least 70 percent in total CÔTES DU CABARDÈS ET DE tDe la Coste (Sélectionné) • Guinand (Elevé of Grenache (itself a minimum of 20 percent), L’ORBIEL VDQS en Fûts de Chêne) • Gabriel Martin • C. V. Mourvèdre, Syrah, and up to 30 percent Carignan. See de St.-Christol Cabardès AOC Too early to provide a critique. CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON AOC LA MÉJANELLE AOC ST.-DRÉZÉRY AOC Both red and rosé wines are allowed under this Situated south of Corbières, this large appellation This appellation, which may also be sold as village appellation north of Montpellier, but I began to shrug off the sort of reputation that Coteaux de la Méjanelle, covers four communes have encountered only reds, and those have typified the wines of the Midi long before in an area once part of the Rhône delta—river- been of a very modest quality. Languedoc. Although the latter region tends to smoothed boulders litter the vineyards. grab most of the headlines these days, Roussillon Rosé is permitted, but La Méjanelle produces ST.-GEORGES-D’ORQUES AOC still offers a tremendous choice of richly mostly red wines of a dark, rich, and well- flavored wines of exciting value and quality. Just west of Montpellier, the St.-Georges- structured vin de garde style. Château de RED The best of these wines have a good color d’Orques appellation extends over five Flaugergues consistently ranks as the best. and a generosity of southern fruit, with the communes and produces mostly red wines of tChâteau de Flaugergues (Sommelière) tiniest hint of vanilla and spice. They may be very good color, plenty of fruit, and no little sold as primeur or nouveau from the third finesse for this unpretentious Languedoc Thursday of November following the harvest. MONTPEYROUX AOC appellation. A small quantity of rosé is also This village is located on schistous hills next made, the best having a bouquet of dried gA blend of at least three of the following to St.-Saturnin, just north of the Clairette du flowers and some summer fruits on the palate. varieties, no two of which may exceed 90% of the total: Carignan (60% maximum), Languedoc subappellation. The style of all but tChâteau de l’Engarran (Quetton Saint- Cinsault, Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, Macabéo the best of these red and rosé wines is firm Georges) • Château Icard (Elevé en Fûts de (10% maximum), Mourvèdre, and Syrah and somewhat rustic, but they are honest and Chêne) • Les Quatre Pilas pleasing, and those recommended below rank (there must be at least 20% of Syrah and/or Mourvèdre) among the finest in Languedoc. ST.-SATURNIN AOC tD’Aupilhac • Des Grecaux (Hêméra) • k3–8 years Named after the first bishop of Toulouse, these Château de Lancyre (Vieilles Vignes) WHITE The best of these floral wines were fat, red and rosé wines come from three communes and all too often lacked acidity, prior to the in the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains, change of encépagement in 2002. (So was 2003, PICPOUL-DE-PINET AOC just west of Montpeyroux, where deep-colored, but that was the vintage, rather than the Covering six communes, this white-wine-only fine, and full-flavored red wines are possible, mix.) They may be sold as primeur or nouveau appellation must be made, as the name if not always evident. Production is dominated from the third Thursday of November following suggests, from 100 percent Picpoul, which in by the coopératives of St.-Félix-de-Lodez and St.- the harvest. Pinet produces a lively young wine that quickly Saturnin, the former specializing in a pleasant, tires, and thus must be drunk as young as slightly pétillant rosé, while the latter makes a gAt least 50% of Grenache, Macabéo, and possible. Gaujal is undoubtedly the best. vin d’une nuit, a light-bodied red that has been Tourbat, plus a minimum of 20% Marsanne, tChâteau Font-Mars • C. V. de macerated for only one night. Roussanne, and Vermentino (all varieties obligatory) (Ressac Prestige) • Des Lauriers tLucian • C. V. de St-Saturnin k1–2 years PIC-ST.-LOUP AOC VÉRARGUES AOC ROSÉ Fresh and attractive dry wines, these rosés may be sold as primeur or nouveau Red and rosé wines from 12 communes in Vérargues produces large quantities of quaffing, from the third Thursday of November Hérault and one in Gard, all in the vicinity but otherwise unexceptional, red and rosé following the harvest. of the pic, or peak, of Pic St.-Loup, including wines from nine communes, four of which also some high-altitude locations that must rank constitute the Muscat de Lunel appellation. They gA blend of at least three of the following among the coolest vineyards in southern France. are also sold as Coteaux de Vérargues AOC. varieties, no two of which may exceed 90% of the total: Carignan (60% maximum), Permitted grape varieties for Pic-St.-Loup break tChâteau du Grès-St.-Paul from the norm—red wines must be made Cinsault, Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, Macabéo from a blend of at least two of the following: (10% maximum), Mourvèdre, and Syrah Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah (no minimum CÔTES DE LA MALEPÈRE VDQS (furthermore, there must be at least 20% or maximum restrictions), plus up to 10 percent Between the Razès coopérative and Domaines of Syrah and/or Mourvèdre) Carignan and Cinsault (Counoise, Grenache Virginie (Des Bruyère), this is becoming one of k1–2 years Gris, Terret Noir, Picpoul Noir, and Lladoner the fastest-rising, value-for-money, superb- tAlquier (Des Filles) • Mas Amiel • Mas des Pelut are not allowed). The grapes for rosé are quality appellations in Languedoc-Roussillon. Baux (Soleil) • De Casenove • C. V. the same, except that Carignan is excluded and Should be made an AOC. • Mas Crémat (Dédicace, La Llose) as much as 30 percent Cinsault may be used. RED Well-colored wines of medium to full • Cazes Frères Z • Jaubert-Noury (Château tDevois du Claus (Elevé en Fûts de Chêne) • body, with elegant, deliciously spicy fruit. Planères) • Joliette Y (André Mercier) • Foulaquier (Les Chalades) • Mas Gourdou gA minimum of 50% Merlot, at least 20% (Le Vignon) • Du Mas Rous (Elevé (Les Roches Blanches) • De l’Hortus • Cabernet Franc and Malbec, plus optional en Fûts de Chêne) • Mosse (Tradition) • 240 FRANCE

C. V. de Passa (Mas d’en Badie) • Piquemal CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON and Chenin Blanc, including at least 20% of • Primo Palatum • Pujols (La Montadella) • VILLAGES AOC the latter, plus a maximum of 20% in total Château de Rey (Les Galets Roulés) • of Mauzac and , with the latter Sarda-Malet • Sol-Payre (Scelerata Ame This relatively recent (1997) red wine district is restricted to no more than 10% Noire) restricted to vines growing in the villages of Tautavel and . It conforms to the tDe l’Aigle • Sieur d’Arques • Veuve Tailhan requirements of Côtes du Roussillon Villages, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON except for some of the encépagement, the FAUGÈRES AOC VILLAGES AOC stipulation that at least 50 percent of the Although fair-sized, Faugères is an obscure and This appellation encompasses exclusively red Carignan content must be vinified by overlooked appellation, probably due to the fact wines from 25 villages along the Agly River and macération carbonique (see Côtes du Roussillon that it was formerly known for eau-de-vie and its hinterland, in the best area of the Côtes du Caramany for explanation), and the fact that the fortified Muscat, with red wine a postwar Roussillon. The encépagement changed in 2003. wines may not be released for sale prior to development. Despite the similarity between the October 1 following the year of harvest. schistous, hillside vineyards and grape varieties RED Just as good value as basic Côtes du RED Rich, well-colored wines that deserve their here and in neighboring St.-Chinian, the two Roussillon, the best can have even more appellations make distinctly different wines. character and finesse. own village designation. RED These rustic wines have a deep color and gA blend of at least three of the following gAs for Côtes du Roussillon Villages except that Macabéo is not allowed, and there must are heavy with the spicy, warm flavors of varieties, no two of which may exceed 90% Cinsault and Carignan. of the total: Carignan (60% maximum), be at least 20% Grenache and Lladoner Cinsault, Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, Macabéo Pelut, and no more than 50% Carignan k3–10 years (10% maximum), Mourvèdre, and Syrah k3–15 years ROSÉ Small production of attractively colored, (furthermore, there must be at least 30% of tDes Chênes (La Carissa) • Fontanel (Prieuré ripe, and fruity dry rosés. These wines may be Syrah and/or Mourvèdre) Elevé en Fûts de Chêne) sold as from December 1 following the harvest k3–10 years without any mention of primeur or nouveau. tChâteau Aymerich (Général Joseph CÔTES DU gA maximum of 40% Carignan, and no more Aymerich) • Château de Caladroy (La ROUSSILLON VILLAGES than 20% Cinsault, plus at least 20% Juliane) • Clot de L’Oum (Saint Bart Vieilles LATOUR-DE-FRANCE AOC Grenache and/or Lladoner Pelut, a minimum Vignes) • Clos des Fées • Força Real (Hauts of 15% Syrah, and at least 5% Mourvèdre This is a fine-value red wine that conforms to de Força) • Gardiés • Haute Coutume (furthermore, Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, the requirements of Côtes du Roussillon (Schistes de Trémoine) • Mas de Lavail Mourvèdre, and Syrah represent at least Villages. Virtually the entire production of (Tradition) • Château Planezes (Elevé en 50% of the entire blend) Latour-de-France used to be sold to, and Fûts de Chêne) • Des Schistes (Tradition) k3–10 years through, the national -shop group tAlquier • Château des Estanilles • Abbaye Nicolas, which was a great advantage when this de Sylva Plana CÔTES DU village obtained its own appellation, as its ROUSSILLON VILLAGES seemingly cheeky name was already known the FITOU AOC CARAMANY AOC length and breadth of the country. When it was made an AOC in 1948, Fitou RED Full in color and body, these fine-value This supervalue red wine conforms to the was fast asleep, but wine buyers beat a path wines have a fruity flavor. requirements of Côtes du Roussillon Villages, to its desolate door in the early 1980s, making except for a minimum Syrah content and the k3–15 years it the fastest-rising star in the Mediterranean stipulation that the Carignan must be vinified by tDe L’Ausseil (La Capitelle) firmament. It seems to have returned to its macération carbonique. (This strange criterion dozing state. The encépagement changed stems from the fact that, in 1964, the local CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX AOC in 2001. coopérative claimed to be the first in France to This provisional was introduced RED Even at the lowest level, these wines have use this technique.) in 1989 to allow producers to decide the future a fine color and a spicy warmth of Grenache RED Simply the fullest, richest, and longest- name of their appellation: Blanquette de Limoux that curbs and softens the concentrated fruit and living wines of Roussillon, despite the or Crémant de Limoux. The former relied tannin of low-yielding Carignan. macération carbonique, which just goes to primarily on the Mauzac grape and, upon gA minimum of 30% Carignan, plus prove how useful that process can be when introducing the Crémant appellation, at least Mourvèdre, Syrah, and at least 30% used to lift the natural fruit of a wine instead of 90 percent content of this local variety became Grenache and Lladoner Pelut; within this dominating it with pear-drop aromas. compulsory. In contrast, the newly created Carignan, Grenache, and Lladoner Pelut gAs for Côtes du Roussillon Villages except Crémant de Limoux had a minimum content of must account for at least 70% of the entire that there must be at least 25% Syrah Chenin Blanc, albeit a more modest percentage. blend; and until 2007 there must be at least k3–15 years The choice was not merely about a name, but 10% Cinsault, while as from 2008 there must tC. V. Catalans what direction and style the wine should follow. be at least 10% Mourvèdre (Macabéo and It was thought that Mauzac-based Blanquette Terret Noir are no longer allowed) de Limoux would take the slow lane while k3–6 years (4–10 years in exceptional cases) CÔTES DU Chardonnay-influenced Crémant would be in ROUSSILLON VILLAGES the fast lane. By law, they should have made tBertrand Bergé • Château des Erles • C. V. AOC this decision by the end of 1994, but Crémant de Mont Tauch (Seigneur de Don Neuve) • de Limoux did not take off as anticipated. Just Château de Nouvelles • De la Rochelière This relatively recent (1996) red wine district is (Noblesse du Temps) • De Roland restricted to vines growing in the villages of a year before the deadline, only one-twentieth Lansac, Lesquerde, and Rasiguères. It conforms of Limoux’s sparkling-wine harvest had adopted FRONTIGNAN AOC to the requirements of Côtes du Roussillon the Crémant appellation. The lawmakers face a See Muscat de Frontignan AOC Villages, except for some of the encépagement dilemma, since two names are being used for and the stipulation that the Carignan must be one wine and there is much less support for the vinified by macération carbonique (see Côtes du new appellation than expected. However, both GRAND ROUSSILLON AOC Roussillon Caramany for explanation). styles deserve to exist. The largest appellation producing the least RED Rich, well-colored wines that deserve their SPARKLING WHITE Chardonnay tends to be amount of wine, Grand Roussillon is a VDN own village designation. the main base, with just enough Mauzac that encompasses 100 communes, yet produces retained to assure a certain style, and Chenin as little as 330 cases (30 hectoliters) of wine gAs for Côtes du Roussillon Villages except Blanc is used as a natural form of acid per year. This has nothing to do with low that Macabéo is not allowed, and there must adjustment. The wines are generally more yields or a strict selection process—the be at least 30% Syrah and Mourvèdre refined than Blanquette de Limoux, and the appellation is apparently used as a sort of k3–15 years best have a finesse that the more traditional sous marque or dumping ground for the tSemper (Voluptas) • C. V. de Tautavel products cannot match. inferior wines produced by the better VDNs (Tradition) gA maximum of 90% in total of Chardonnay within its boundaries. LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON 241 gMuscat d’Alexandrie, Muscat Petits Grains, Petits Grains, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Muscat à Petits Grains, Picpoul, Terret Grenache (Gris, Blanc, and Noir), Macabéo, Tourbat, and a combined maximum of Blanc, and Vermentino Tourbat, plus up to 10% (in total) of 10% of Carignan, Cinsault, Syrah, and kWithin 1 year Listan Negra Carignan, Cinsault, Syrah, and Listan tDes Aires Hautes • Borie de Maurel (Sylla) • k10–30 years Le Cazal (Le Paps de Zarat) • Château GRAND ROUSSILLON tMas Amiel • Jean-Louis Lafage (Prestige d’ (Oppius) • Primo Palatum • Du “RANCIO” AOC Vieilli en Fûts de Chêne) • Pouderoux Roc (Passion) • La Tour Buisse See Grand Roussillon AOC MAURY “RANCIO” AOC MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE AOC LIMOUX AOC See Maury AOC Located in Le Petit Causse, the central-northern Until 1993, Mauzac was the only grape allowed MINERVOIS AOC zone of Minervois, La Livinière was in 1999 the for the still-wine version of Blanquette de first cru in this appellation to be recognized in Limoux, but new regulations reduced this to North of Corbières and adjoining the western its own right. The vines grow on the best areas a minimum of 15 percent and allowed the extremity of the Coteaux du Languedoc, the of the Petit Causse, the sheltered, limestone inclusion of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. At rocky Minervois area has the typically hot and cliffs that skirt the foot of the Montagne Noir the same time, Limoux became the first French arid air of southern France. Elevated to full at a height of 460 feet (140 meters). AOC to insist upon barrel fermentation and AOC status in February 1985, its vineyards are RED Where there is sufficient finesse to match some fabulous successes quickly established divided into zones. As in Corbières, these are the structure of these wines, they represent an enviable reputation for the Chardonnay- not official, but one day they may in part or some of Minervois’s best vins de garde. whole join La Livinière, which was recognized dominated wines of this appellation. The only gA minimum of 40% Grenache, Lladoner as a cru in its own right in 1999. The zones are: question now is will Limoux have equal success Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah (these last two L’Argent Double (rough, rugged vineyards amid with Chenin Blanc? A new red Limoux was must represent at least 10% of the entire rocky outcrops in the arid heart of Minervois); introduced in 2004. blend, and at least 20% as from 2006), plus La Clamoux (a cooler western area with a touch optional Aspiran Noir, Carignan, Cinsault, RED Newly introduced in 2004. more rainfall than most Minervois zones, with Picpoul Noir, and Terret Noir gMinimum of 50% Merlot, plus Cabernet Grenache and Syrah doing well, particularly Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, on the higher-altitude vineyards); La Clause k2–10 years Grenache, malbec and Syrah. The Carignan (rugged, mountain climate and stony, terra rosa tClos de L’Escandil • C. V. des Crus de Haut- must not exceed 10% and is due to be soil combine to produce rather rustic vins de Minervois (Gaïa) • Château Faiteau phased out by 2010. there must be at garde in the north of Minervois); Les Côtes least three varieties, no two of which Noires (under a harsh mountain climate, MUSCAT may exceed 90% of the total blend. these high-altitude vineyards situated in the DE FRONTIGNAN AOC northwestern corner of Minervois are better k3–6 years It is claimed that the Marquis de Lur-Saluces suited to the production of rather WHITE Although every wine must contain at visited Frontignan in 1700 and it inspired him than of red); Le Petit Causse (when it can get least 15 percent Mauzac, you will encounter to make sweet wines at Château d’Yquem in enough moisture, Mourvèdre does well on supposedly pure Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc , but Muscat de Frontignan is no these baking-hot, sheltered, limestone slopes varietal wines (and Mauzac, of course). This longer botrytized—it is a . Muscat in the arid heart of Minervois—La Livinière is explained by the law that de Frontignan may either be a vin doux naturel is located at the heart of Le Petit Causse); requires that a pure varietal wine must contain (VDN) or a vin de liqueur (VDL). In the latter, Les Serres (very dry, stony vineyards over at least 85 percent of the grape named. the spirit is added to the grape juice before any limestone subsoil, mostly planted with Chardonnay are sherbetty-fresh with a fermentation whatsoever can take place. If the Carignan). The encépagement for red and zesty style at minimum; the best are beautifully label does not differentiate between the two, rosé changed in 2003. rich, with succulent, lemony-oaky fruit and the small green tax mark on the cap should mouth-watering acidity. The pure Mauzac from RED At worst, these wines are rough and ready bear the letters VDN or VDL. for an AOC, but some of the best domaines also Rives-Blanques makes me wonder whether it WHITE The VDNs are delightful, golden- produce vins de pays that are better than the would not be better for producers to focus on colored, raisiny-rich, sweet, and delicious wines Minervois of other properties, thus their this, their local grape, rather than resign that have a succulent, honeyed aftertaste with Minervois can be very good indeed. themselves to making yet another Chardonnay a somewhat fatter style than those of Beaumes, in a world awash with that variety. This was gA minimum of 40% Grenache, Lladoner although many lack its finesse. The VDLs are not initially my view. Tasted when first released, Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah (these last two much sweeter. the Chardonnay clearly outshines the Mauzac, must represent at least 10% of the entire gMuscat Doré de Frontignan thus it is little wonder that the Cuvée blend, and at least 20% as from 2006), plus vacuums up so many medals for Rives- optional Aspiran Noir, Carignan, Cinsault, k1–3 years Blanques. However, follow them in bottle for Picpoul Noir, and Terret Noir tChâteau des Aresquiers • Château de just 12 months, and the Mauzac evolves into k1–5 years la Peyrade the more expressive wine. WHITE Less than one percent of Minervois is gA minimum of 15% Mauzac, plus white. A simple, dry, and fruity wine fermented MUSCAT DE LUNEL AOC Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc at cooler temperatures than was once standard, k1–2 years it is now fresher and more aromatic. tD’ (Gravas) • Rives-Blanques gBourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Macabéo, (Dédicace) • Sieur d’Arques (Toques et Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, plus not Clochers) more than 20% Clairette, Muscat à Petits Grains (itself limited to a maximum of 10%), MAURY AOC Picpoul, and Terret Blanc Despite the long list of possibilities, these kWithin 1 year fortified wines are mostly pure Grenache, a ROSÉ Most of these are good-value wines fact that is recognized by the gradual increase with a pretty pink color and a dry, in the compulsory percentage of this grape—the fruity flavor. minimum was just 50 percent 10 years ago. gA minimum of 40% Grenache, Lladoner RED/WHITE/ROSÉ/TAWNY Pale and intricate Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah (these last two wines, they have a combination of tangy, toasty, must represent at least 10% of the entire berry flavors and nutty-raisiny richness. blend, and at least 20% as from 2006), plus gAt least 75% Grenache (a minimum of 70% optional Aspiran Noir, Carignan, Cinsault, for pre-2000 vintages), a maximum of 10% Picpoul Noir, and Terret Noir, with no more Macabéo (15% for pre-2000 vintages), plus than 10% Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Muscat à Blanc, Macabéo, Marsanne, Roussanne, 242 FRANCE

Situated on limestone terraces northeast of merge into one tawny style with time. The have been awarded their own designation: St.- Montpellier, this undervalued VDN approaches whites do not, of course, have any tannic and St.-Chinian , but it is too Frontignan in terms of pure quality. astringency and are more oxidative and raisiny, early to make a critique. Moves are under way WHITE/ROSÉ Lighter than Frontignan, these with a resinous, candied-peel character. to introduce a white style of St.-Chinian. wines nevertheless have fine, fragrant Muscat gGrenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabéo, RED Relatively light in color and weight, these aromas of great delicacy and length. Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat wines have an elegance that belies their gMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat Rosé à d’Alexandrie, Muscat Romain, Tourbat (the Mediterranean origin. Petits Grains Muscat varieties must not exceed 20% of the gAt least 50% in total of Grenache, Lladoner k1–3 years entire blend in total or separately) Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus a k tLacoste (Clos Bellevue, Passerillé) • C. V. du 10–20 years maximum of 40% Carignan and no more Muscat de Lunel (Prestige) tDu Mas Alart (Ambré Hors d’Age) • Des than 30% Cinsault Chênes • Cazes Frères Z • Gardies • k2–6 years MUSCAT DE MIREVAL AOC Château de Nouvelles (Tuilé) • Sarda-Malet ROSÉ Dry and delicately fruity rosés with an This is a little-seen VDN appellation. (La Carbasse) • Château de Sau (Ambré attractive, fragrant bouquet and flavor. May be Hors d’Age) • Terrassous (Ambré Vinifié en WHITE Light and sweet wines that can have a sold from December 1 following the harvest Fûts de Chêne) • Arnaud de Villeneuve without any mention of primeur or nouveau. better balance and (relatively) more acidity than (Ambré Hors d’Age) those from neighboring Frontignan. Mireval gAt least 50% in total of Grenache, Lladoner wines can have more elegance, although they RIVESALTES “RANCIO” AOC Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus a may lack the raisiny-rich concentration. maximum of 40% Carignan and no more See Rivesaltes AOC gMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains than 30% Cinsault k k1–3 years ST.-CHINIAN AOC 1–3 years tClos Bagatelle • Berloup (Vignes Royales) • tChâteau d’Exindre (Vent d’Anges) • Du Mas Upgraded from VDQS in May 1982, the Neuf Mas Canet Valette • De Canimals Le Haut • excellent-value appellation of St.-Chinian is the Mas Champart • Château La Dournie • MUSCAT DE RIVESALTES AOC nearest that native southern French grapes come Fontaine Marcousse • Des Jougla (Vieihs to resembling Bordeaux. Similar grapes from Arrasics) • Navare (Olivier) This appellation should not be confused with comparable schistous hillsides in neighboring the blended Rivesaltes VDNs that bear no Faugères make an entirely different, far more VIN DE FRONTIGNAN AOC mention of the Muscat grape. rustic wine that lacks the finesse of St.-Chinian, See Muscat de Frontignan AOC WHITE/ROSÉ Rich, ripe, grapey-raisiny wines let alone Bordeaux. As from 2004, two crus that are very consistent in quality. gMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat d’Alexandrie MORE GREEN WINES k1–3 years In addition to the producers recommended in this directory that are either biodynamic or organic, ZtCazes Frères Z • Des Chênes • there are also the following. No negative inference of quality should be taken from the fact that Cornelianum • Jean Estavel (Prestige) • they are not featured among my recommended producers. There are a number that have been Lafage • Laporte • Château de Nouvelles • recommended in other editions, and still make some fine wines, but have been culled out to Sarda-Malet • Des Schistes • Arnaud de make room for others. Villeneuve Biodynamic (St Jean de Minervois), Croix de Bel-Air MUSCAT DE ST.-JEAN-DE- Beau-Thorey (Corconne), De Bila-Haut (Latour (Marseillan), De Montjouy (Florensac), CV de MINERVOIS AOC de France), De Combebelle (), Montpeyroux (Montpeyroux), Ochre Rouge (Dions), Château du Parc (Pezenas), This tiny subappellation of Minervois produces Jean-Claude Daumond (), De Pastouret (Bellegarde), Château Pech-Latt a little vin doux naturel that used to be grossly Fontedicto (Caux), De Malaïgue (Uzés), Des (Lagrasse), De Petit Roubié (Pinet), Château underrated but has gained excellent distribution Perrières (Manduel), Le Petit Domaine de des Auzines (Auzines), Bannières (Castries), on export markets over the past seven years. Gimios (St Jean de Minervois), St Julien (), Sylvain Saux () Du Mas Barjac (Monteils), Bassac WHITE/ROSÉ These golden wines have a (), De Malavieille (Merifons), Organic balanced sweetness and an apricot flavor. Peyre-Rose (St Pargoire), De Picheral (Mus), gMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat Rosé à Cabanis (Beauvoisin), De Caillan (), Château (Roubia), La Solana (Festes), Petits Grains De Camplazens (), Château de Des Soulié (), St Alban (Neffies), Caraguilhes (St Laurent de la Cabrerisse), De k1–3 years Château St Auriol (Lézignan-Corbières), Clairac (Cazouls lès Béziers), Combes-Giraud tDe Barroubio • La Muscat (Petit Grain) De St Blaise (Cessenon), Ste Marie des Pins (), Costeplane (Cannes et Clairan), CV (), Des Syles (Béziers) La Triballe les Côteaux de (Creissan), Jean RIVESALTES AOC (), De Valescure (Aimargues), Bigou (Rouvenac), Blanquette Beirieu Abbaye de Valmagne (), Château This appellation represents half of the vin doux (Roquetaillade), Bourguet (Béziers), Alain Ventaiolle (Ventenac-Cabardes), Château naturel produced in France. Optional legally Bousquet (St Etienne de Gourgas), Couderc Veredus (), Zumbaum-Tomasi defined terms include ambré for an oxidative (Neffies), Mas Coutelou (), Du (Claret), De l’Ametlier (Pézenas), Anthéa style of tawny colored Rivesaltes; tuilé for an Farlet (Meze), La Fon de Lacan (St Pargoire), (Sallès d’Aude), La Batteuse (Antugnac), oxidative red; and grenat for a reductive-style Jacques Frélin Vignobles (Villeneuve lès Château Bel Air La Côte (Beauvoisin), red that must not be bottled any later than Béziers), Grand Bourry (Le Cailar), La Château Belaussel (Lagrasse), Belles Croix March 1 of the second year. Hors d’age requires Grangette (Castelnau de Guers), De Gressac Robin (Guzargues), Château Bousquette a minimum of five years’ aging. (Verfeuil), Mas de Janiny (St Bauzille de la (Cessenon-sur-), De Brau RED/ROSÉ The warm, brick-red glow of these Sylve), Mas Jullien (Jonquières), CV La (), De Buzarens (Assas), wines belies their astringent-sweet, chocolate, and Clairette (Bellegarde), La Tour (Beaucaire), Arnaudiés (Ceret), Batlle-Jacquet (Fourques), cherry-liqueur flavor and drying, tannic finish. Du Lac (), CV Languedoc Carle-Courty (), Henri-Albert Foxonet Roussillon (Montpellier), Bernard Legoy gA minimum of 50% (for oxidative style) or (), Joliette (Espira de l’Agly), (Condat-en-Combrailles), CV Les Gres 75% (for reductive style) Grenache, plus Franck Jorel (St Paul de Fenouillet), Château (Vendargues), De Litenis (St Jean de Fos), Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Tourbat, de L’Ou (Montescot), Laguerre (St Martin de Lou Pas d’Estrech (St Christol de Rodières), with a maximum of 10% Carignan, Cinsault, Fenouillet), Le Casot de Mailloles (Banyuls- (Pennautier), Louvet/Cellier du Palomino, and Syrah sur-Mer), Lenan (), Nivet-Galinier Languedoc Vins Distribution (Narbonne), k10–40 years (Toulouges), Jean-Michel Paraire (Fourques), Château Maris (La Livinière), Maurel Vedeau Olivier Pithon (Calce), De la Rourède WHITE/TAWNY Because much of the red (Servian), Antoine Maurel (Conques-sur- (Fourques), Du Soula (St Martin de version can be lightened after lengthy Orbiel), De Mayrac (Couiza), De Montahuc Fenouillet), Clos St Martin (Bompas) maturation in wood, all Rivesaltes eventually