Grenache: Best Practices and Potential for South Africa
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Grenache: Best Practices and Potential for South Africa Dissertation submitted to the Cape Wine Academy in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the diploma of Cape Wine Master by July 2014 i I, Martin Gomez Fernandez, declare that this dissertation is my own, unaided work. It is submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the diploma of Cape Wine Master to the Cape Wine Academy. It has not been submitted before for qualification of examination in this or any other educational organization. Signed: _________________________________________ April 2015 ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS First and foremost, I am very grateful to my mentor Dr. Winifred Bowman CWM. Winnie, without your support I’ll have never walked this road. I’ll always be very greatful of your help and love. Thanks to my wife Ana and my parents Cruz and Martin for your patience and endless love. Thanks to Karin Visser for the many hours spent tasting wines together. Thanks to all the instructors I’ve had during my certificate and diploma courses at the Cape Wine Academy for sharing their passion and knowledge. Thanks to Fiona McDonald for your help making this text sharper and your good advice on the tasting exam. Thanks to all the Grenachistes, wine producers and viticulturalists, who so willingly welcomed me, contributed their wisdom, spent time with me tasting and shared their love for this grape variety: Adi Badenhorst, AA Badenhorst Family Wines, Paardeberg, Malmesbury, Swartland, South Africa Albert Jané and Elvira, Acústic Celler, Tarragona, Spain Angel Benito, Bodegas Pedro Benito Urbina, Navarra Brian Conway, Izway, Barossa, Australia Bryn Richards, Chapel Hill Winery, McLaren Vale, Australia Charl du Plessis, Spice Route, Swartland, South Africa Charles Visser, Chief Viticulturalist, Vititec, South Africa Chester Osborn, D’Arenberg, McLaren Vale, Australia Chris Williams, The Foundry, Stellenbosch, South Africa Conrad Vlok, Strandveld Wines (Pty) Ltd, Elim, South Africa David Sadie, David & Nadia Sadie, Swartland, South Africa Daniel Ramos, Zebreros, Sierra de Gredos, Spain Eben Sadie, Sadie Family Wines, Swartland, South Africa Edmund Terblanche, La Motte Private Cellar, Franschhoek, South Africa Emmanuel Pageot, Domaine Turner Pageot, Languedoc, France Erica Joubert, Franki’s vineyards, Malmesbury, South Africa iii Dr. Fernando Zamora, Espectacle del Montsant and Clos Mogador, Priorat and Montsant, Spain Frank Massard, Epicure Wines, Terra Alta, Spain Greg Harrington MS and Brandon Moss, Gramercy Cellars, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, US Guillaume Demoulin, Chateau Trinquevedel, Southern Rhone, France Jan Boland Coetzee, Vrisienhof, South Africa Javier Eraso, Vitis Navarra, Navarra, Spain Jean Louis Gallucci, Chêne Bleu, SCEA Domaine de la Verriere, Crestet, France Jeff Grier CWM, Domaine Grier, Roussillon, South of France and South Africa Johan Delport, Waverley Hills Organic Wines, Tulbagh, South Africa Jonas Tofterup, Hammeken Cellars SL, Campo de Borja, Spain José Manuel Lacarte, Agromillora Iberia, S.L, Spain José Ramón Lissarrague, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Spain Julien Barrot, Domain La Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France Julien Ditté, Amistat, Rousillon, France Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, Domaine of the Bee, Rousillon, France Kevin Glastonbury, Yalumba Wine Company, Barossa Marc Isart, Bernabeleva, Vinos de Madrid, Spain Marlene Angelloz, Grenache Association, Seguret, France Nathalie Cellier, Domaine des 3 Cellier, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhône Valley, France Norrel Robertson MW, El Escoces Volante, Calatayud, Spain Pablo Eguzkiza, Compañía de Telmo Rodriguez, Castilla y Leon, Spain Razvan Macici, Nederburg, Paarl, South Africa Roger Burton, Tierhoek, Piekenierskloof, Cistrusdal Mountain, South Africa Sébastien Magnouac and Walter McKinlay, Domaine de Mourchon, Seguret, France Stephan Asseo, L’Aventure, Paso Robles, United States Taras Ochota, Ochota barrels artisan wines, South Australia, Australia iv Tim Smith, Tim Smith Wines, Nuriootpa, Barossa Valley South Australia Troy Kalleske, Kalleske Wines, Barossa Valley, Australia Warren Ellis, Neil Ellis Wines, Piekenierskloof, South Africa Willie Brand/Gavin Brand, Cape Rock Wines, Olifants River, South Africa My role in writing this thesis has been to gather, collect and synthesise the work and ideas of passionate winegrowers, viticulturalists, winemakers, scientists and researchers who have worked with Grenache and understand the complexity of producing great wines, from the vineyard to the bottle, while enjoying the immense pleasure that this grape variety give us in the glass. v SUMMARY Though not a well known variety for many consumers, the global interest in Grenache is gaining momentum. Much of this interest has been driven by the increase in producers crafting top quality Grenache wines from countries such as France, Spain, Australia and the United States. Its image problem has had less to do with the grape variety and more with how it has been managed in the vineyard. When over-cropped, Grenache produces thin wines that are somewhat dilute, lacking in colour, acid and structure. Grenache is a subtle grape variety which, when properly managed, is able to produce concentrated, delicate, fresh, juicy and complex food friendly wines that can compete against the best. Its versatility is an asset and it is a grape variety that should be used to introduce new generations to the charms and enjoyment of wine drinking. This Grenache renaissance is being driven by many young producers re-examining Mediterranean grape varieties as a way of returning to terroir expression and to differentiate their product positioning when viewed against most of the indistinguishable wine made from the classic international grape varieties the world over. Places like Priorat, Navarra, Sierra de Gredos in Spain, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara and Washington in the United States, McLaren Vale and Barossa in Australia in addition to the traditional Southern Rhône and Rousillon areas have elevated the quality perception of Grenache with careful viticulture and winemaking, crafting wines that are true reflections of their places of origin. This interest is also igniting in South Africa with some 30+ producers producing in excess of 100 Grenache-based wines – mostly blended – from the 350 hectares of Grenache planted in South Africa. The consensus among many of the winemakers and viticulturalists interviewed is that it is a grape variety with good potential in South Africa due to the Mediterranean warm climate, dry land and granitic soils. The certainty of climate change and global warming makes it imperative that the South African industry to select the right cultivars with an eye to planting for the future. Confidence is high among producers and many are bullish, believing that South Africa could become a world leader in producing quality Grenache. Although the potential is great, the challenges remain daunting; amongst other stumbling blocks are the lack of consumer education about the grape variety in the local market, limited export markets for Grenache-based wines, a limited amount of old vine Grenache available in South Africa, limited experience with the varietal and the need for considerable patience to produce outstanding wines from old vines. Based on the input from renowned winemakers and viticulturalist from South Africa and abroad, this research compiles some of the key viticultural and winemaking best practices followed by world class producers. The idea should not be to replicate what’s working elsewhere, but to utilise all that know how to better select planting locations and accelerate the learning curve in order to find a true South African Grenache style. Some basic recommendations are also made to the industry regarding potential ways of improving the image of Grenache among consumers, the media and the wine trade. I hope that anyone thinking about the future of South African wine, would consider Grenache as an exciting possibility for the future. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS DECLARATION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. iii SUMMARY ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..………………………. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… vii INDEX OF TABLES……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. xi INDEX OF FIGURES ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… xii 1. Introduction to Grenache Noir ....................................................................................................... 1 1.1. Mutations and Crosses ................................................................................................................ 2 1.2. Synonyms .................................................................................................................................... 2 1.3. Scope of this Dissertation ........................................................................................................... 3 1.4. Research Methodology ............................................................................................................... 4 1.5. Contribution to the Industry ....................................................................................................... 4 2. History of Grenache ........................................................................................................................ 5 3. Grenache Today .............................................................................................................................. 7 3.1.