Contents

Introduction 1 The Redingote and Killarney 19 Late 1860s Fashions 1 Embroidery 19 The Advent of Harper’s Bazar 2 Lace Rouleaux, Appliqué, Etc. 19 The Patterns in This Book 3 Varieties 19 How to Enlarge the Patterns 6 Paletot with Flowing Sleeves 20 November 2, 1867 8 Alexandra Paletot 22 Don Caesar Paletot 25 Bonnets 8 Elegant Paletot 27 Trimmings 8 Round Hats 8 November 23, 1867 29 Dresses 8 Bonnets 29 The Corsage 8 Fabrics 29 Sleeves 9 Round Hats 29 Skirts 9 Trimmings 29 Walking Dresses 9 Veils 30 Sacques and Paletots 9 Miscellaneous Items 30 Cloaks 9 Black Lace Fichu 31 The Breton Jacket 10 Lace Cravat 32 Colors 10 November 30, 1867 33 Silk Dress Goods 10 Knitting 33 Woolens 10 Lingerie 33 Trimmings 10 Novelties 33 Laces 11 Crochet Stitches 34 Gloves 11 Trimmings for Hoods and Capes 35 Crinolines 11 Knitted Fanchon 37 Peplum 12 Gored Morning Dress 38 November 9, 1867 15 Gray Grosgrain Silk Dress 41 New Styles and Colors 15 Peplum for Gray Grosgrain Silk Dress 43 Materials 15 Bismarck Poult-de-Soie Dress 44 Street Dresses 15 Lilac Taffeta Dress 44 Indoor Toilettes 16 Brown Irish Poplin Dress 45 Morning Dresses 16 Green Taffeta Dress 45 Trimmings 16 December 7, 1867 46 Jackets 16 Furs 46 Caps 16 Shoes 46 Bonnets 17 Collar for Young Lady 47 à la Blanchisseuse Dress Looped Up 17 December 14, 1867 48 November 16, 1867 18 Evening Toilettes 48 Cloakings 18 Gaze de Chambray, Tulle, Etc. 48 Modes 18 Velvet, Satin, and Brocade 48

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Trousseaux 48 Bodice with Lappets 83 Opera Cloaks and Hats 49 Pompadour Waist with Yoke 85 Coiffures 49 Pompadour Waist with Bretelles 88 Varieties 49 Pompadour Basque Waist 89 Morning Dress with Jacket 50 White Poplin Pelerine 91 Crinoline 52 Low-Necked Under Waist 92 December 21, 1867 54 Gored Flannel Underskirt 93 Coiffures and Chignons 54 Bedouin 95 Cravat of Tatting and Velvet Ribbon 58 Scarf Bedouin 97 Talma 100 December 28, 1867 60 Cashmere Baschlik 102 Diamonds and Pearls 60 Mantilla Veil 104 Opals, Emeralds, Etc. 60 Neapolitan Coral 60 February 1, 1868 105 Byzantine Mosaics 60 Evening Attire 105 Enameled Painting and Etruscan Gold 60 Baschliks 105 Cameos, Onyx, and Sardonyx 61 Belt with Sash 106 Necklaces, Lockets, Etc. 61 Lace Scarf 108 Fichu with Belt 62 Knitted Corset 111 Crocheted Corset 64 February 8, 1868 113 January 11, 1868 66 Lingerie 113 Swansdown Opera Cloaks 66 Collar with Lappets 114 Skating Costumes 66 Cravat Collar with Lappets 114 Dress with Double-Breasted Waist 67 Cravat Collar with Ribbon Loops 115 Waist with Rolling Collar 70 Collar with Tabs 115 Under Waist 72 Bavette Collar 116 Corset Cover 74 Bavette Collar with Chemisette 117 Collar and Chemisette 119 January 18, 1868 75 Cravat Collar 120 Bonnets 75 Street Suits 75 February 15, 1868 121 Miscellaneous Items 75 Skating Suits 121 Crocheted Garter 76 Varieties 121 Skirt Trimming 122 January 25, 1868 77 Mourning Goods 77 February 22, 1868 123 Corded Materials 77 Kid Gloves 123 Crêpe Cloths 77 Varieties 123 English Serge and Mohair Fabrics 77 Crocheted Tatting 124 Mourning Silks 77 February 29, 1868 128 Second Mourning 78 Bonnets 128 Bonnets and Veils 78 Velvet and Satin Hoods 128 Shawls and Cloaks 78 Walking Dresses 128 Trimmings, Collars, Etc. 78 Varieties 128 Varieties 79 Rush Headdress 129 Pompadour Gored Dress 80 Oak Leaf Bandeau 130 Bodice for Young Lady 82 Blackberry Wreath 130 viii Contents

Black Velvet Headdress 131 April 11, 1868 172 Headdress of Lace and Pansies 131 Milliners’ Openings 172 Rosette Headdress 132 Black Lace 172 Opera Coiffure 133 Ornaments and Flowers 172 Spanish Mantilla 134 French Bonnets 173 Bretelles with Belt 136 Round Hats 173 Peasant Waist with Bretelles 138 Dressmakers’ Openings 173 Black Satin and Lace Bertha 140 Collar of Watered Ribbon 174 White Lace and Pink Satin Bertha 142 Black Satin and Lace Waist 175 White Lace and White Satin Bertha 144 Polonaise or Redingote 178 Low-Necked Waist 146 Polonaise Paletot 181 Jacket with Fur Trimming 148 April 18, 1868 182 Talma 150 Dress Goods 182 March 7, 1868 152 Thin Goods 182 Among the Jewels 152 Chameleons 183 Lapis Lazuli and Cameos 152 Morning Dresses 183 Mosaics and Enamel 152 Petticoats 183 Simulated Braid Trimming 153 Collars, Collarettes, and Cuffs 183 Cravat End with Rosette 154 Varieties 184 Hairdressing 155 April 25, 1868 185 March 21, 1868 158 Sacques, Pelisses, and Mantillas 185 Spring Bonnets 158 India Cashmere Shawls 185 Mantilla Veils 158 Cloak and Dress Trimmings 186 Ornaments 158 Looping Up Garments 190 Cloth and Silk Wrappings 158 Sash End 192 Trimmings 159 Sash End 194 Spring Silks 159 Belt with Tabs 195 Percales and Cambrics 159 Undine Paletot 195 Novelties in Lace 159 Watteau Paletot 197 March 28, 1868 160 Polonaise Paletot 199 The Marie Antoinette Dress 160 May 9, 1868 201 The Corsage 160 Parasols and Trimmings 201 The Sleeve 160 Mode Poult-de-Soie Parasol 201 The Skirt 161 Light Green Parasol 202 The Chemise Russe and Robes 161 Black Silk Parasol 203 Low-Necked Evening Waist 162 Parasol Trimmings 205 Marie Antoinette Fichu 164 Making Bonnet Frames and Bonnets 210 Styrian Jacket 166 Metternich Bonnet 214 April 4, 1868 168 Augusta Bonnet 215 Suits 168 Marie Antoinette Bonnet 216 Parasols 168 Pompadour Bonnet 217 Lace Collars, Fichus, Etc. 168 Watteau Bonnet 219 Tatted Collar 170 Trianon Hat 220 Crocheted Collar 171

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May 16, 1868 221 House Dresses 254 Summer Bonnets 221 Lighter Mourning 254 Mourning Bonnets 222 Underskirts 254 May 23, 1868 223 Styles and Trimmings 255 Shawls and Mantles 255 Japanese Foulards 223 Bonnets and Veils 255 Satin and Serge 223 Collars, Etc. 255 Country Suits 223 Parasols, Gloves, and Shoes 256 Dress Materials 223 Jewelry 256 Hints About Dressmaking 224 Waist and Lingerie Trimmings 257 The Cardinal Pelerine and Sleeveless Waist with Simulated Braid Trimming 260 Jackets 224 Waist with Simulated Fichu 262 Lingerie 224 Waist with Simulated Bodice 263 Spring Shoes 224 Tucked Waist Trimmed with Bows 264 Buttons for Trimming 225 Waist with Bretelle Trimming 265 Georgine Walking Dress 227 Waist with Bretelles 266 Norderney Walking Dress 228 Chemise Russe with Embroidery 267 Vienna Walking Dress 232 Muslin Underskirt with Train 269 Brown Linen Legging 234 Embroidered Lace Veil 271 Plaid Linen Legging 235 June 27, 1869 272 May 30, 1868 236 Dress and Outer Wear Trimmings 272 Beaded Border 236 July 4, 1868 277 June 6, 1868 237 Summer Bonnets 277 Riding Habits 237 Round Hats 277 The Corsage 237 Varieties in Dress 277 The Sleeve 237 Morning Dress 279 Trains, Trousers, Etc. 238 White Satin Ribbon Sash 281 Summer Dresses 237 Black Grosgrain Sash 282 Organdy Robes and Embroidered Peasant Waist with Tunic and Sash 283 Muslin 239 Illusion Chemisette 285 Varieties in Lace 239 Muslin and Tatting Chemisette 285 Waist with Fichu 240 Black Silk Apron 286 Waist with Simulated Fichu 242 Black Silk Apron 287 White Cashmere Baschlik 244 Helgolander Garden Hat 288 Summer Sun Bonnet 246 Talma with Sash Ends 289 Garden Hat 248 July 11, 1868 291 June 13, 1868 250 Wrappings 291 Bridal Toilettes 250 Lace Garments 291 Trousseau Dresses 250 Carriage Wrappings 292 Underlinen 251 Seaside and Yachting Jackets 292 Beaded Bandeau 252 Traveling Wrappings 292 Border 253 Tatted and Crocheted Insertion 293 June 20, 1868 254 July 18, 1868 294 Mourning Dress Goods 254 Ladies’ Hairdressing 294 Materials for Suits 254 x Contents

“Boiled” Hair 294 September 5, 1868 344 Hints About the Coiffure 294 Crinolines 344 Amazon Coiffure 294 Open Fronts 344 Marie Antoinette Coiffure 295 French Hoops 344 Headdresses 295 Panniers 345 Caps 295 Corsets 345 July 25, 1868 296 Miscellaneous 346 Fringes for Sashes and Paletots 296 Looping Up Dresses 347 Collar with Bow and Revers 298 Making Corsets 348 Collar with Frill 298 Brown Drilling Corset 350 Collar with Chemisette Front 299 White Drilling Corset 353 Pointed Fichu 300 Corset Without Gores 355 Chemise Russe with Linen Trimming 301 English Leather Corset 358 White Swiss Muslin Chemise Russe 302 Cap of Ribbon and Lace Rosettes 361 Chemise Russe with Long Sleeves 303 Guipure Lace Cap 362 Chemise Russe with Short Sleeves 304 Lace Cap Trimmed with Ribbon 363 Black Guipure Chemise Russe 305 Pompadour Fichu 364 Chemise Russe with Pleated Baschlik Mantilla 366 Trimming 307 September 12, 1868 368 Foulard Écru Chemise Russe 308 Colors 368 White Alpaca Chemise Russe 310 Woolen Goods 368 Walking Suit with Fichu 311 Bonnets 368 Riding Habit 313 Trimmings 368 August 8, 1868 315 Round Hats 369 India Goods 315 Miscellaneous Items 369 White Dresses 315 September 19, 1868 370 Short Muslin Dresses 316 Silks 370 Hints About Sleeves 316 Serge and French Chintz 370 Bathing Costumes 316 Costumes 370 Net Breakfast Cap with Cape 317 Mantles and Cloaks 370 Breakfast Cap with Ribbon Trimming 318 Trimmings 371 Fichu with Revers 319 Bonnets and Hats 371 Bretelle Bodice 321 Tatted Cravat End 372 Bustle 323 Tatted Cravat End 373 Bathing Cloak 324 Tatted Cravat End 374 Bathing Cap 326 Medallions for Cravats 375 Bathing Cap 326 September 26, 1868 376 August 15, 1868 327 Dress Goods 376 Netting Work 327 Evening Dresses 376 August 22, 1868 337 Poplins, Etc. 376 Tatted Collar 337 Morning Robes 376 Crocheted Collar 339 Cloakings 377 August 29, 1868 341 Underlinen 377 Buttonholes for Underclothing 378 Trimmings for Blouses and Waists 341

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Buttons for Underclothing 381 October 17, 1868 416 Trimmings for Underclothing 382 New Bonnets 416 Crocheted Edgings for Underclothing 384 Hats 416 Needleworked Figures for Bonnet Frames and Lining 417 Lingerie and Underclothing 385 Silk, Satin, and Velvet 417 Chemise Yoke 386 Ornaments 417 Pompadour Chemise 387 Tirettes for Looping Up Skirts 418 Chemise with Small Sleeves 389 Needlework and Crocheted Edging 419 Drawers with Round Belt 390 Needlework and Crocheted Edging 420 Nightdress with Revers 392 Trimmings for Dresses and Skirts 421 Belted Nightdress 392 October 24, 1868 424 Muslin Peignoir 394 Dress Waists 424 October 3, 1868 396 Open Waists 424 Chignons 396 Low Corsages 424 Kid Gloves 396 Sleeves 424 Veils 396 Trained Skirts 425 Collars and Neckties 397 Panniers and Tunics 425 Shoes 397 Short Dresses 425 Miscellaneous 397 Trimmings 426 October 10, 1868 398 Morning Dresses 426 Fall Mantles 398 Trimmings for Blouses and Jackets 426 Plush Jackets 398 Pleated Mull Chemisette 427 Cloth Cloaks 398 Embroidered Chemisette 427 Trimmings 398 Maria Theresa Dress Waist 428 Carriage Wrappings and Shawls 398 October 31, 1868 430 Plaids 399 Edgings and Insertions 430 Striped Dresses and Petticoats 399 Embroidered Purse 436 Corsets 399 November 7, 1868 437 Swiss Aprons 399 Furs 437 Tortoiseshell and Jet 399 Fur Hats and Trimmings 437 Handkerchief Border 400 Tatted Fanchon 438 Handkerchief Border 401 Hortense Collar 402 November 14, 1868 440 Marquise Collar 402 Winter Cloaks 440 Pointed Collar with Cuffs 403 Materials 440 Standing Collars 403 Trimmings 441 Adeline Collar 404 Carriage Wrappings and Opera Duchesse Collar 405 Cloaks 441 Louise Collar 406 Shawls 442 Collar with Rounded Bavettes 407 Cloak Trimmings 443 Jabot and Cap 409 Camargo Paletot 446 Nilsson Hat 411 Watteau Paletot 449 Low-Necked Pleated Waist 412 Adeline Paletot 453 Walking Dress with Watteau Paletot 414 Mousquetaire Paletot 455 Burnoose for Elderly Lady 457 xii Contents

November 21, 1868 460 Styles of Making Dresses 492 Winter Bonnets 460 Varieties 493 Headdresses 461 Opera Bonnets and Wrappings 493 November 28, 1868 462 Cravat End in Mignardise and Crochet 494 Knitted Fichu Mantilla 462 Cravat End in Braid and Lace Stitch 495 Ophelia Bonnet 464 Madelon Bonnet 465 December 26, 1868 496 Stuart Bonnet 466 Jewelry 496 Galotti Bonnet 467 Diamonds and Pearls 496 Lucretia Bonnet 468 Turquoise, Coral, Etc. 496 December 5, 1868 469 Perforated Gold and Enamel 496 Byzantine Mosaics and Cameos 496 Dress Goods for Mourning 469 Lockets and Necklaces 496 Half Mourning 469 Slipper Design in Application 497 Cloaks and Suits 469 Bonnets and Veils 470 Appendix A: Dressmaking and Collars and Handkerchiefs 470 Pattern Alterations 499 December 12, 1868 471 Dressmaking 499 Wedding Dresses 471 Taking the Measures 500 Flowers, Veil, Etc. 471 Increasing or Diminishing the Pattern 502 Jewelry 472 Cutting the Waist and Skirt 503 Outdoor Toilettes 472 Making the Waist 503 Morning and Afternoon Dresses 472 Making the Skirt 506 Evening Dresses 473 Sewing Seams 508 Hoopskirt 474 Making Pocket Slits 509 Horsehair Bustle 476 Covering Buttons 510 Pannier Bustle 477 Appendix B: Metric Conversion Trimmings for Underskirts 478 Table 512 Underskirt with Train and Bustle 479 Appendix C: Resources 514 Underskirt Trimmed with Satin 481 Bridal Toilettes 482 Index A: Patterns and Instructions High Waist with Fichu and Peplum 486 by Garment Type 515 High Waist with Fichu and Peplum 488 Index B: Patterns and Instructions Designs for Embroidering Lace 490 by Construction Technique 520 Figured Lace Veil 491 Index C: Fashion Columns 527 December 19, 1868 492 Evening Dresses 492 Trains and Crinolines 492

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