Department of English Language and Literature

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MASARYK UNIVERSITY

FACULTY OF EDUCATION

Development of English Terminology of Male Fashion

Master’s thesis

Brno 2018

Author: Supervisor: Bc. Jan Chalupa Mgr. Radek Vogel, PhD.

Prohlášení

Prohlašuji, že jsem závěrečnou diplomovou práci vypracoval samostatně, s využitím pouze citovaných pramenů, dalších informací a zdrojů v souladu s Disciplinárních řádech pro student Pedagogické fakulty Masarykovy university a se zákonem č. 124/2000 Sb., o právu autorském, o právech souvisejících s právem autorským a změne některách zákonů (autorský zákon), ve znění pozdějších předpisů.

Declaration

I hereby declare that I worked on the thesis on my own and that I used only the sources listed in the bibliography.

Brno 30.3. 2018 ……………………………………..

Jan Chalupa

Acknowledgements

I would like to express my gratitude to Mgr. Radek Vogel, PhD. for his patience, guidance and precious advice during writing this thesis as well as the help with the topic.

Abstract

Although many research studies were devoted to etymologically themed works, there is no publication that is concerned specifically with male fashion. Therefore, this thesis focuses on the development of the terminology of male fashion. The aim of this thesis is to ascertain the etymological background of the terms of male fashion concerning the language origin, time period and word formation. The first part of the thesis is devoted to outlining the related of linguistic concepts, followed by a brief history of the English language and a brief history of fashion. The last chapter is devoted to the analysis of the terminology that is based on the corpus included in the appendix.

Key words development, etymology, male fashion, word formation, the English language

Abstrakt

Přestože mnoho výzkumů a publikací by věnováno etymologickým tématům. Není zde publikace, která by se věnovala pouze pánské módě. Tato práce se proto zaměřuje na etymologický vývoj terminologie pánské módy. Cílem práce je zjistit etymologický původ termínů pánské módy v angličtině s ohledem na jazyk, ve kterém vznikly, časové období a způsob slovotvorby. V prvních částech je definovaná terminologie lingvistických pojmů, následnována historií vývoje anglického jazyka a stručnou historií pánské módy. Poslední kapitola se věnuje samotné analýze pojmů, která vychází z korpusu, který je uveden v přílohách.

Klíčová slova vývoj, etymologie, pánská móda, slovotvorba, anglický jazyk

Table of contents

1 Introduction ...... 10 2 Terminology ...... 12 2.1 Morpheme, morph, allomorph ...... 12 2.2 Bound and free morpheme ...... 12 2.3 Affixes ...... 13 2.4 Root, stem, base and lexeme ...... 13 3 Word formation ...... 15 3.1 Derivation ...... 15 3.2 Compounding ...... 15 3.3 Reduplication ...... 16 3.4 Borrowing ...... 17 3.5 Conversion ...... 17 3.6 Shortening ...... 18 3.6.1 Blending ...... 18 3.6.2 Clipping ...... 18 3.6.3 Back formation ...... 18 3.6.4 Acronyming and initialism ...... 19 3.7 Onomatopoeia ...... 19 3.8 Calque ...... 19 4 History of the English language ...... 21 4.1 Historical development of the English language ...... 21 4.1.1 Old English ...... 21 4.1.2 Middle English ...... 23 4.1.3 Early Modern English ...... 25 4.1.4 Modern English ...... 26 4.2 Language that influenced the English language ...... 27 4.2.1 French ...... 27 4.2.2 Spanish ...... 27 4.2.3 Latin ...... 28 4.2.4 Greek ...... 28 4.2.5 Hindi ...... 28 4.2.6 Italian ...... 28

5 History of fashion ...... 30 5.1 Ancient world ...... 30 5.2 Middle Ages ...... 31 5.3 15th century ...... 32 5.4 16th century ...... 33 5.5 17th century ...... 34 5.6 18th century ...... 36 5.7 19th century ...... 37 5.8 20th and 21th century ...... 38 5.8.1 Before World War One ...... 38 5.8.2 Between the Wars ...... 39 5.8.3 After World War Two ...... 40 6 Corpus analysis ...... 42 6.1 Head ...... 42 6.1.1 Language origin ...... 42 6.1.2 Time period ...... 48 6.1.3 Word formation ...... 50 6.2 Torso ...... 53 6.2.1 Language origin ...... 53 6.2.2 Time period ...... 60 6.2.3 Word formation ...... 63 6.3 Legs ...... 67 6.3.1 Language origin ...... 67 6.3.2 Time period ...... 70 6.3.3 Word formation ...... 70 6.4 Feet ...... 72 6.4.1 Language origin ...... 72 6.4.2 Time period ...... 75 6.4.3 Word formation ...... 77 7 Conclusion ...... 81 Bibliography ...... 83 Appendix ...... i Corpus ...... i

1 Head ...... i 2 Torso ...... xiv 3 Legs ...... xxvii 4 Feet ...... xxix

List of abbreviations * - probable reconstruction of the language / - or (a) – sometimes with additional letter a abrv. - abbreviation adj. - adjective aka – also known as AmE – American English AN – Anglo-Norman Anglo-Ir. – Anglo-Irish Arab. - Arabian borr. - borrowing Ca. – Catalan Celt. - Celtic cf. – confere (compare) dim. – diminutive ecclesLa – Ecclesiastical Latin e.g. – exempli gratia (for example) Fr. – French fem. – feminine Ge. – German He. – Hebrew i.e. – id est (that is) It. – Italian Ir. - Irish La. - Latin lME – late Middle English masc. – masculine MDu – middle Dutch ME – Middle English medLa – medieval Latin MFr – Middle French MHG – Middle High German MLG – Middle Low German n. - noun p. - page obs. - obsolete OE – Old English OFr – Old French OHG – Old High German ON – Old Norse ONFr – Old North French OProv – Old Provenҫal

orig. – originally OSp – Old Spanish perh. – perhaps PIE – Proto-Indo-European Pers. – Persian Port. – Portuguese prob. – probably Prov. - Provenҫal Sp. – Spanish SW - southwest v. - verb US – United States of America WG – West Germanic

1 Introduction

Male fashion has been developing since the ancient times. Although it has been part of the lives of men for several centuries it was not receiving much attention from the point of etymology and morphology. Many etymologically related works has been published yet no work has been done specifically in relation to male fashion. There are publications related to fashion as such with little notes about the etymological background of a few items. However, there is no academic work related to etymology of male fashion that would provide with such data. Hence this thesis deals with this phenomon and analyses the terminology of male fashion concerning the language origin, time period, word formation and attempts to shed light on this topic that has been overlooked. Since the etymological background is not based only on the language origin, the categories of the time period and word formation are included since it provides with a larger picture of how the terminology of male fashion is formed. The second chapter defines the linguistic concepts that are important for a reader to understand the process of word formation. It deals with the topic of basic linguistic units such as a morpheme, morph or affix and states the definitions that are used throughout the work and chiefly in the corpus when analysing the terms. The third chapter describes the individual word formation processes that occur in the language. The most frequent processes of word formation are introduced, from derivation and compounding to borrowing or conversion. These terms are crucial for the thesis since one of the criteria of analysis is word formation. The next chapter covers the origins of the English language. This chapter briefly describes the development of the English language from the period of Old English to period of Modern English that is used nowadays. The chapter is followed by the basic description of languages that influenced English in terms of male fashion. The fifth chapter briefly outlines the history of fashion, how it changed or what was important for each period. The most typical types of clothing are mentioned since the terms from various publications were selected for the corpus analysis. The last chapter is devoted to analysis itself. It is divided into four parts and each part is devoted to one part of the body. Each body part has its own subcategories which are usually fabrics and accessories related to the particular body part. Then the part of the body is analysed in terms of language origin, time period and word formation.

For results there are used graphs that is accompanied by the explanation or further information. If necessary, there is a short summary is provided at the end of the chapter.

2 Terminology

This chapter deals with the terminology that is needed to be defined and understood in word formation of the English language. Hence the chapter deals with linguistic concepts such as morpheme, morph, allomorph, root, stem, base, lexeme and affixes since these are the primary concepts for word formation and its understanding.

2.1 Morpheme, morph, allomorph

Generally there is a conclusion that a morpheme is an abstract minimal unit of meaning or grammatical function and thus not further analysable (Jasenská, 2015, p. 28; Bauer, 1983, pp. 13-14; Lyons, 1968, p. 181). A morpheme is not identical to a word, a morpheme can be a root, prefix or a suffix. In this thesis the term “word” will be used in the meaning as the lexical word. Therefore, it differs from a morpheme. A word can be inserted into the sentence with relative freedom whereas a morpheme, when it is bound, creates a part of the word and not the word itself, that is possible only when it is a free morpheme. (Vogel, 2014, p. 11) Ex. unhappy – un- is a morpheme, that is not a word but a prefix denoting negativity. The morph is the actual realization of the morpheme. It is a segment that represents the actual morpeheme (Bauer, 1983, p. 15; Matthews, 1974, p. 83). Allomorphs are morphs with the same meaning but a different form of a single morpheme. (Jesenská, 2015, p. 30) The example may be an allomorph of a plural morpheme. In the word “books”, it is realised by a morph /–s/, in the word “dogs”, it is realised by a morph /–z/ and in the word “watches”, it is realised by /–iz/. All /–s/, /-z/, /-iz/ are the allomophs of the plural morpheme.

2.2 Bound and free morpheme

A free morpheme is a morpheme which can occur in the isolation. A morpheme that cannot occur in a one word form is a bound morpheme. (Bauer, 1983, p. 17; Kroeger, 2015, p.13) Free morphemes can be divided into two groups – lexical and grammatical (functional1).

1 Jesenská, 2015, p.34 12

Free lexical morphemes are those morphemes with a meaning (root morphemes), they are usually realised by a lexical word. This group includes nouns, verbs, adjectives and adverbs (open class). Free grammatical morphemes are those morphemes that do not have the content meaning but can occur on their own. For example determiners, pronouns, prepositions (closed class). (Jesenská, 2015, p. 34) Bound morphemes can be divided into two groups as well – lexical (derivational2) and grammatical (inflectional3). Bound grammatical morphemes influence the grammatical category of a word. This group includes markers of plurality (suffix –s,-es), marker of the comparative and superlative (-er,-est) or regular past tense. Bound lexical morphemes can create new words by adding any form of affix (suffix, prefix or infix).

2.3 Affixes

Affixes are bound morphemes which do not realise an unanalysable lexeme. Affixes can be divided into prefixes, suffixes and infixes. Thery are attached to the free morpheme functioning as a base, root or a stem of the word. (Bauer, 1983, p. 18.) Prefixes are attached before the base. Suffixes are attached after the base and infixes are attached inside of the base.

2.4 Root, stem, base and lexeme

According to Jesenká (2015) “the root and base are terms from derivational morphology, while stem is the unit from inflectional morphology” (p. 37). Whereas for Bauer (1983) a root, stem and base does not specifically belongs into any kind of morphology as Jesenská does (p. 20). A root is not further analysable (Bauer, 1983, p. 20), so agrees Arnold (1973, p. 31) and Jesenská (2015, p. 37). It is a part of a word that remains after the all inflectional and derivational parts are removed.

2 Jesenská, 2015, p. 35 3 Jesenská, 2015, p. 36 13

A stem is dealt with only if we talk about inflectional morphology (Bauer, 1983, p. 20; Jesenská 2015, p. 37). It can contain more than one root (jackboot, undercut) and inflectional affixes are added. In case of jackboot, there is a jackboot and jackboots. A base is a form to which any affixes can be added, either inflectional or derivational. It means that any root or stem can be designated as a base. It is a “derivationally analysable form to which derivational affixed are added can only be referred as a base” (Bauer, 1983, p. 21). According to Jesenská (2015), it is a word or a lexeme to which any affix can be added, she gives examples such as: the base of sharpen is sharp but for sharepener it is sharpen (pp. 37-38). A lexeme is a smallest contrastive unit in a semantic system, it is a meaningful spoken form that is an items of vocabulary. (Vogel, 2014, p. 15)

3 Word formation

This chapter deals with the phenomenon of word formation. This chapter presents several types of word formation. Each chapter thus presents the way of creating neologisms in the English language. The terms dealt in this chapter are derivation, compounding, conversion, borrowing, shortening, back formation, onomatopoeia, reduplication and calque.

3.1 Derivation

A process of forming a new word by adding an affix to the root. From the point of the class changing we can divide derivation into class maintaining (it means that a noun stays a noun after the affixation) or class changing (it means that an adjective can become a noun). (Jesenská, 2015, p. 46) In terms of a derivation we distinguish mainly three types of affixation. In prefixation is used a prefix (a bound morpheme) that is put in front of the stem or root. It is usually a class maintaining process. In infixation, there is used an infix that occurs within a root or stem. In suffixation, a suffix is put behind the root or stem and can be often class changing. In terms of suffixation there is a neglected group called diminutives. As the term suggests in refers to a smallness of something. Although it is not very frequent in English, in terms of fashion the reader may encounter this phenomenon several times (beanie, suffix –ie.). (Jesenská, 2015, p. 51; Arnold, 1973, p. 48) In terms of fashion terminology, this is more often with the modern terms of male fashion.

3.2 Compounding

Compounding is very frequent in English since English is mostly an analytic language, (in terms of fashion terminology as well) and highly productive (Plag, 2003, p.172). When compounding, two (sometimes more) free morphemes are put together to form one word as one lexeme. It means that the created compound is recursive. Compounds can be, for example, nouns, adjectives, adverbs and numberals. (Bauer, 1983, pp. 28-29; Marchand, 1960, p. 11) There are several classifications of compounds. Nevertheless only three that are relevant are listed.

The first classification is subordinate and coordinate compounds. In the subordinate compounds one element (the modifier) modifies the other element (head). This is the most frequent in the male fashion (bearskin, cowhide, sunglasses). In the coordinate compounds the bases have the equal significance. The second classification is among the solid, hyphened and open compounds. Solid compound are those compounds that are spelt as a one word (undercut). The hyphenated compounds are those that are connected by a hyphen. And the open compounds are formed by two or more words (e.g. oxford shoe). (Jesenská, 2015, p. 65; Vogel, 2014, p. 18) Sometimes the word may belong into the all of the groups due to the fact that spelling has not been established yet. In terms of noun compouds (that are relative for vocabulary of male fashion) we can divide compounds into two groups: endocentric (contain a semantic head and function in the same way as the head) and exocentric (contain no semantic head and their function is not the same as their head). Both of these groups can be divided formally and semantically. (Bauer, 1983, p. 30; Jesenská, 2015, pp. 62-63) Formally endocentric compounds remain in the same world class, such as bedroom or nightlife. Semantically endocentric compounds keep the semantic relation to the base. Formally exocentric compounds belong into a different word class than its head (turncoat – no kind of coat). Semantically exocentric compounds refer to semantically different donotations than their elements. (Jesenská, 2015, pp. 62-63) For the purpose of this thesis there should be a focus on the endocentric compounds.

3.3 Reduplication

Marchand (1960, p. 45) as well as Jesenská (2015, p. 68) and Bauer (1983, pp. 212-213) consider reduplication as a kind of a compound. Bauer (Ibid.) calls them rhyme motivated and ablaut motivated compounds. Since this is a process of word formation occurring in the corpus, a chapter is devoted to this phenomenon. Reduplications are formed by repeating the element. They are equal in significance and they are often synonymous. This repetion naturally serves as an emphasis and in English it is often restricted to sound words. (Marchand, 1969, p. 45)

Hladký (1998, p. 35), Vogel (2015, p. 21) as well as Mattiello (2013, p. 141) differentiate three types of reduplication: repetitive reduplication (tick-tick), repetitive reduplication with extention (clickety click) and non-repetitive reduplication (flim-flam).

3.4 Borrowing

A borrowing or a loanword is a word that is used by the receiving language from one language and incorporated into vocabulary without translation (Crystal, 2013, p. 126), it is a word adopted with little or no modification (loanword, n.d.). A borrowing is “a consequence of cultural contact between two language communities” (Kemmer, 2017). Hence borrowings occur between the languages that influence each other, it can be via trade, war occupation or being a lingua franca. Although nowadays English is the language that usually lends words into other languages, English itself has many borrowings from languages such as Latin, Greek, French, Spanish and much more. More about borrowings from different languages is dealt in the chapter History of English language.

3.5 Conversion

The conversion is the word formating phenomenon when a word changes its word class without adding any suffix, prefix or infix which means without changing any form (Bauer, 1983, p. 32). In other words, it is a “process of word formation which involves a change in the functioning of a word from one word class to another, usually without any morphemic changes” (Jesenská, 2015, p. 71). Sometimes it is also called zero derivation (Bauer, 2005, p. 131; Marchard, 1960, p. 293) since the word is derived but no affixes are added. According to Jesenská (2015, pp. 71-73), there are two types of conversion: major and minor. The major conversion occurs when a lexeme is converted into another word class. E.g. verbs into nouns, nouns into verbs or noun into adjectives. There can also be some exception, there may be either phonetic changes (use /ju:s/ and /ju:z/) or stress shift or spelling changes (defence vs. defense). The minor conversion takes place when a free functional morpheme is converted into the lexical. E.g. a preposition into a verb, a conjuction into a noun or a prefix into a noun. The most frequently created lexical items by conversion are nouns and verbs, thus the major conversion. That is also relevant for this thesis.

3.6 Shortening

By many authors this phenomenon is called differently. Jesenká (2015) calls it shortening and then it is divided into small groups of word formation while Bauer (1983) uses no hypernym for these phenomena and deals with them separately as well as Maschard (1960). This thesis follows the division of Jesenská since the author thinks that it is more relevant for this thesis. All of the shortening are the products of linguistic economy of the language.

3.6.1 Blending

The blending is a process of fusion or joining of two lexical items into one new naming unit (Jesenská 2015, p. 77; Böhmerová, 2010, p. 64). Bauer (1983, p. 234) also emphasises that there is no transparent analysis into morphemes. That might cause an issue when attempting to recover the original morphemes. All new words are content word and the words formed by blending are usually nouns. Jesenská (2015) also classifies blends by several criteria but it is not relevant for this thesis, hence it is avoided. Examples of the blends (words creating by blending) are: chunnel (channel + tunnel), vlog (video + blog), blog (web page + log).

3.6.2 Clipping

Maschard (1960, p. 357) defines clipping is “a reduction of a word to one of its parts”. That might not be complete since there is no change in the meaning of a new word in terms of word class and form (Jesenská, 2015, p. 82; Bauer, 1983, p. 233). The clipping may result the change of stylistic register. It is also unpredictable which part of the word will be shortened There are also clipped compounds. However, they are not common very much. A few examples of clipping: app from application, bus from autobus or flu from influenza.

3.6.3 Back formation

Back formation (Maschard, 1960, p. 305; Bauer, 1983, p. 230) is word formation in which the part of the word that can be considered as a suffix (sometimes a prefix) is removed and thus a new word is formed. It is applied to form a verb from a noun

18 in 87% of back formation cases (Pennanen, 1975, p. 217). Some of the authors use the term back derivation (Marchand, 1960, p. 305). However, Bauer (1983, pp. 230- 231) argues that this is not a correct term since “it is not always a derivational process”. Marchand also differentiates two types of back formation – peddle from peddler and televise from television. That is not relevant for this thesis thus the author sticks to the basic definition by Bauer. A several examples of back formation may include edit from editor, televise from television or laze from lazy.

3.6.4 Acronyming and initialism

Acronyms are words that are formed by the initial letters (or sometimes from syllables) of the previous naming unit that is usually an open compound. The acronym is read as a word. E.g. NATO, PIN, UNSECO, Benelux. (Bauer, 1983, p. 237) Initialisms are pronounced as a sequence the letters, that is the main difference to the acronyms. Examples may be EU, BBC or CNN. According to Bauer (1983, p. 238), the acronyms are relatively hard to distinguish from initialisms since it is unpredictable whether the abbreviation can be read as a word or not. Both acronyms and initialism are usually shortening of a brand or company. In fashion, the acronyms may be used for the designation of a product that is typical for a particular brand.

3.7 Onomatopoeia

The word that are motivated by the real sound (Jesenská, 2015, p. 20). The onomatopoetic expression attempts to phonetically imitate, resemble or suggest the sound that it describes (Onomatopoeia, n.d.). These sounds may be from nature, from animals (woof-woof, meow) or from natural phenomenon, like water – splash. Besides, it may be human activities or machines (boom, crash) (Jesenská, 2015, p. 20).

3.8 Calque

A calque (a loan translation) is “an expression adopted by one language from another in a more or less literally translated form” (Loan translation, n.d.). Nowadays calques are very often to happen to have their origin in English complex

19 naming units. Nevertheless, even the English language had time periods when it borrowed the words and then it used them according to the nature of its users, i.e. translated them word by word, hence this phenomenon is included.

4 History of the English language

The English language is a West Germanic language that originates in Anglo- Frisian dialects brought to Britain from the 5th to 7th century AD by Germanic tribes from nowadays northwest Germany, west Denmark and the Netherlands. These dialect started to displace the Celtic languages that predominated by then. (Crystal, 1994, p. 300; Crystal 2003, p. 6) In the first part, this chapter deals with the explanation of the historical development of the individual historical periods such as Old English, Middle English, Early Modern English and Modern English. The second part is devoted to a brief description of the languages that influenced English in terms of male fashion. Since vocabulary of male fashion is affected by the English language itself as well as by the other languages, both chapters are included.

4.1 Historical development of the English language

This chapter deals the historical development of the English languages. It gives a brief description of the language of a certain period with time situating since it is important for the analysis of the corpus.

4.1.1 Old English

Old English dates from the 5th century to the 12th century (Baugh, 1951, p. 46). It is important to mention that when we talk about Old English, we talk about several dialects of English. The most prominent dialects in the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms were West Saxon, Northumbrian, Kentish, and Mercian that happened to be the predecessor of Middle English (Crystal. 2013, p. 29). Hence Old English has many variants and it unifies throughout the time. Old English can be divided into periods: Prehistoric Old English (c. 450 to 650), Early Old English (c. 650 to 900), Late Old English (c. 900 to 1066). (Momma & Matto, 2011; Lever, 2016) Unlike Modern English, it was a synthetic language, i.e. it took inflections in the cases of the nouns and conjuctions in cases of verbs (Baugh, 1951, p. 50). That was reflected in the grammar that was different from today’s English. Neverteless, adjectives, prepositions, articles were before nouns as today. The main syntactic difference was in the placing of the verb that might have occurred before the subject

21 or the very end of the clause (cf. Latin). There was a grammatical gender as in today’s German or French. Besides this, the word order could vary (due to inflections, cf. today’s English). (Crystal, 2013, p. 20) Unfortunately, there is no certain evidence of the sounds in the Old English, thus all based on theories derived from phonetic rules, estimations and literary material, such as poetry (Crystal, 2013, p. 18). Nevertheless, some authors provide with the rules of pronunciation of Old English (Mitchell and Robinson, 1992, pp. 13-15; Baugh, 1951, pp. 47-50). Due to surviving documents, there is evidence of the orthography of Old English. Old English firstly used a runic alphabet and then adapted in the 9th century a modified Latin alphabet. This Latin alphabaet was enriched by a few runic symbols such as ð or þ, today’s th sounds. Besides this, there were long vowels, for example ǣ, ī or ȳ. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 17-18) The vocabulary of Old English had three main influences – the Celtic language, Old Norse and Latin. The Latin is connected with the arrival of Christian missionaries from Ireland. New vocabulary was mainly connected with the church or teology, in other cases it gave to a word a new meaning. After the arrival of spoken Latin in the 10th century after the Benedictin monastic revival, the new vocabulary was broaden even by terms of the everyday matter, scholarly or technical vocabulary, such as scola (school), planta (plant) or hymnus (hymn). (Crystal, 2013, p. 24). The next language that affected Old English was Old Norse. It was the result of Viking raids in Britain and the period when Danes controlled the eastern parts of England. Old Norse enriched Old English by new personal names as well as words from everyday life. Words of Scandinavian origin are typical for their beginning with the sk-. Old Norse also affected personal pronouns such they, he, she or the verb to be. (Crystal, 2013, p. 25; Baugh, 1951, p. 83) The effect of Old Norse was not only on vocabulary, Old English also gained the typical feature of today’s English – the third personal suffix –s and the participal ending –and that involved into –ing (Baugh, 1951, p. 93). The last language that affected Old English was the Celtic language. Its influence on the English language was subtle, Old English only adopted place naming (Kent, Devonshire), dialect naming (Deira). In these names, the designations are completely or half of the Celtic origin. (Baugh, 1951, p. 68) There is also a typical feature of Old English. Kennings are words that coin the meaning indirectly and often in a compounding form. The meaning is not evident

22 and a kenning works at a level of metaphor. Kennings are for example whaleroad (sea), bonehouse for skeleton or heaven’s kingdom for a god. (Crystal, 2013, p. 23) The oldest surving texts from the period of the Old English are, for example, Caedmon’s Hymm and Beowulf.

4.1.2 Middle English

The beginnings of Middle English are dated to the Norman conquest in 1066 when the Normans started to influence the language (Baugh, 1951, p. 98), hence Middle English dates from the 12th century to the middle of the 15th century. The Normans used chiefly French and French became the language of the upper class in comparison to Old English that was used by the masses of peasants. There happened to be bilingualism in the country (Crystal, 2013, p. 30), though due to the intermarriages the languages started to fuse and thus came the beginnings of Middle English (Baugh, 1951, p. 108; Crystal, 2013, p. 30). During the 12th century English started to be used among the upper class. After the loss of territory by John the King of England in France, the English nationalism grew. French was not necessary and required due to the loss of the estates in France. Moreover, the middle class was on the raise, thus the English language started to be used for example on the ground of the Parliament. (Crystal, 2013, p. 31; Baugh, 1951, p. 116; Ibid., p. 130) Middle English can be divided into these periods: Early Middle English (1066 - 1350) and Late Middle English (1350 – 1485). (Momma & Matto, 2011) The grammar of Middle English started to be more analytic but the change occurred throughtout the whole period of Middle English, not an instant process. The English started to be a language with a given word order. The classic SVO (Subject-Verb-Object) scheme started to be applied. The inflections started to disappear and therefore the position of prepositions became more prominent. The prepositions started to take place of cases. Howoever, the endings of the verbs remained. Middle English started to apply the only negative in the clause, unlike Old English that had two or three negatives. This process was not completed even in Early Modern English. Moreover, the marking of infinitive with to started to appear in the period of early Middle English. It had the aim of the purpose but it has lost its semantic meaning. Middle English also gave the foundations of progressive forms, perfective aspect

23 and passive or do as an auxiliary verbs. Also the dual pronouns disappeared and words lost their grammatical gender. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 44-45; Baugh 1951, pp. 146-154) The pronunciation of Middle English was influenced by French, for example /h/ at the beginning of the word ceased to be pronounced. The sound /v/ started to be important since it gained a position of a distinctive feature (from the /f/ sound) while in Old English it was just an allomorph. The same happened with /s/ and /z/ sounds. The /ŋ/ sound started to distinguish meaning as it is known today. Other important changes happened, such as the loss of gemination, it meant that two consonant were pronounced as one. In the period of Middle English the process of changing the pronunciation of vowels started. It is called Great Vowel Shift. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 42-43) The spelling changed in Middle English as well. The main differences from Old English were writing sh instead of sc for the /ʃ/ sound, disappeareance of /h/ at the beginning of the words connected with pronunciation, or /tʃ/ sound started to be written as ch or sch and not as c as in Old English. The last change that should be mentioned is adding the vowel into the words with long vowels, thus Old English sē happened to be written as see. (Crystal, 2013, p. 42) The vocabulary of Middle English was mostly influenced by the French language (Old French or Middle French). Since the range of new vocabulary is wide and the aim of this thesis is not to present all new words, the author sticks to naming the areas of the language where French influenced the English language the most. These areas were government a administration, church and ecclestical affairs, law, army and navy, art, learning, medicine, social life, meals, home, general phrases and the most relevant for this thesis – fashion. From the mentioned areas it is seen that many of them are abstract. New words duplicated the English words, they either replaced the Old English equivalents or the English words gained completely new meaning throughout the time. (Baugh, 1951, pp. 157-160; Crystal, 2013, p. 46-47) Besides French, there was also Latin that still influenced vocabulary of the English language. These words were chiefly gained by the written form. This happened predominantly in the fourteenth and fifteenth century. That might be probably in connection with expansion of the religious orders. (Baugh, 1951, pp. 171- 172; Crystal, 2013, p. 48) The most famous piece of writing of the period of Middle English is The Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer. This piece of literature was also important

24 for the next development of the English language since Early Modern English developed mainly from it. The Canterbury Tales were written in the London dialect, this dialect proceeded from the Mercian dialect of Old English (as mentioned before).

4.1.3 Early Modern English

The period of Early Modern English is marked by the invention of the press. It enabled the spread of the language and thus the formation of its standard. It had the result that the language developed. The dating of Early Modern English may vary, some of the scholars say it began before the invention of the press, some of them claim it was after the invention. The author sticks with the theory of dating the period after the invention of the press since it had a huge impact on the development of the English language. (Baugh, 1953, p. 187) Thus Early Modern English is dated from 1485 – 1600 (Crystal, 2013, p. 56). One of the main features of Early Modern English is the beginning of fixing the orphography. Due to Richard Mulcaster’s Elementarie, the process of the spelling regulation began. As Crystal (2013, p. 66) states, for a word fellow there were several spelling varations as felow, felowe, fallow or fallowe. With emerge of dictionaries (e.g. Elementrie, Johnson’s Dictionary), the spelling of words started to be more rigid. One of the features was there was regulated the usage of v and u in words, these letters were interchangeable in Middle English. The school textbooks were written and published and people started to used the regulated orthography so by the 18th century there was a notion of the correct spelling. (Crystal, 2013, p. 67; Baugh, 1951, pp. 189-190, pp. 193-198) Considering the pronunciation, it underwent the development same as the spelling. There was the ongoing Great Vowel Shift that influenced the pronunciation as well as orthography. In the 17th century started the distinction between /ʌ/ and /ʊ/ in words with the letter u like sun and pull. There were many other pronunciation changes but based on the nature of the thesis they will not be dealt with in such extent. (Crystal, 2013, p. 69; Baugh, 1951, pp. 222-224) The grammar of Early Modern English continued with the changes of Middle English. The double negative was still common yet not in such extent. But the inflections in conjuctions started to disappear. The impact of Renaissance caused the complexity of syntactic relations within a sentence inspired by Latin.

The distinction between thou/you started to disappear, both started to be used for second person singular. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 70-71; Baugh, 1951, pp. 227) The vocabulary was influenced by the Renaissance movement as well. Due to this movement the English language was influenced by Italian, that penetrated into English directly or via French. Among these influential languages also were Latin and Greek. Besides this, English also obtained words from Spanish and Portuguese and other languages such as Dutch or Hindi. The vocabulary of the English language in the period of Early Modern English was also influenced by William Shakespeare. He contributed with idioms, new meanings or even new words (hyphenated compounds). There also happened a process of grammatical conversion with some verbs. As mentioned above, some of the words changed their word class and enriched the vocabulary by gaining a new meaning. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 60-63; Baugh, 1951, pp. 210-218)

4.1.4 Modern English

To say that Modern English in the 18th century is the same as it is known today would not be accurate. The following paragrapgh thus demonstrate the main differences from today’s English. The main difference was in the vocabulary. Examples may be the past participles of the verbs such as shoot – shotten, snow – snown or spit – spitten. The words that are known now had a different meaning. Some of the words gained a new meaning yet the spelling is still the same. Due to this, the works of some authors may be confusing for contemporary readers. When we talk about the change of meaning we do not have to go back in time, an example may be Tolkien’s usage of gay as “happy”, in contrast to today’s meaning of being “homosexual.” (Crystal, 2013, p. 77) Another change in English was that there started to be created its national variations. The most influential was American English that attempted to separate from British English. Due to this, Noah Webster completed a dictionary that contained words not found in British English and the period of independent American English began (Crystal, 2013, p. 81). There also were formed several variaties of English such as Australian, South African, Indian, Canadian or Black. (Crystal, 2013, pp. 95- 103; Baugh, 1951, pp. 336-343)

Each variation of English brought new items of vocabulary from the territory it settled. Thus English created the large vocabulary that is known nowadays. Today we also talk about the fact that English replaced Latin as lingua franca. This affects English as much as the previous periods since English is exposed to more people and thus the language can change rapidly.

4.2 Language that influenced the English language This chapter presents the a brief description of languages that influenced the English language in terms of fashion and overall development. The author selects the languges that were the most frequent. These languages are French, Latin, Spanish, Dutch, Greek, Italian a Hindi.

4.2.1 French

French is one of the most spread Romance languages. It developed from the Vulgar Latin of the Roman Empire. It evolved to Old French and had considerable influence on the English language. There were several dialects in Old French. During the 12th and 13th century the Francien dialect became predominant and gave the foundations to modern French. From then on, this standard started to replace all the dialects and became the official language of France. French is considerably influenced by Latin. Their vocabulary is very similar. However, the grammar has been simplified to the form of today. (Sala & Posner, 2017a)

4.2.2 Spanish

Modern Spanish, as French, is a Romance language. As French it developed from Vulgar Latin of the Roman Empire from which it developed to the Castilian dialect. This dialect emerged in Cantabria in the 9th century in north central Spain. After the merge of kingdoms of Aragorn and Castile, the Castilian dialect became the official language of the Spanish Empire. After the conquest of America, Spanish spread around the world. There it was in a direct contact with the English language and thus influenced it. Spanish was considerably influenced by the Latin language in terms of vocabulary. (Sala & Posner, 2017b)

4.2.3 Latin

Latin is a Indo-European language and the ancestor to modern Romance languages. Latin was originally spoken by a small tribe that lived along the Tiber river and with power of the Roman Empire it spread throughout Europe. In several parts of Europe, its spoken form – Vulgar Latin evolved into new languages. Latin survived until the Middle Ages when it became the language of the clergy of the Roman Church and the educated strata of people. In the Roman Church it remained until today. Nowadays, it is an official language of the Roman Church. Latin influenced English by the time the Roman Empire occupied the British Isles and then in the Middle Ages directly or via French. The last period of its considerable influence was in the Renaissance alongside with Italian. (Sala & Posner, 2017c)

4.2.4 Greek

The Greek language is one of the oldest languages. Greek underwent several stages, from Proto-Greek through Ancient Greek and Medieval Greek to Modern Greek. The Greek language gave the foundations to the European civilisation through the Greek society. By these terms connected to the social life such as democracy. The main influence of the Greek language was in the period of Early Modern English and before since Greek influenced also other languages such as Latin and via these languages its vocabulary penetrated. (Lejeune & Newton, 2018)

4.2.5 Hindi

The Hindi language is a Indo-European language and now the official language of India. Hindi developed from Saskrit, one of the oldest languages that probably influenced the whole Indo-European branch. There are several dialects of Hindi divided into Hindi zone and belt. Hindi started to influence the English language in the period British ascendancy over India. Mainly from the 17th century to the 19th century. (The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica, 2017; Hindi, n.d.)

4.2.6 Italian

Italian is a Romance language arousing from Latin as all the Romance languages. Modern Italian is based on the dialect of Florence from which it developed.

Its phonological and grammatical system is simplified from Latin and very similar to other Romance languages in terms of gender, agreement of adjectives and nouns or articles. The Italian language influenced the English languages chiefly in the period of the Renaissance and then in the 19th and 20th century after the foundation of Italian quarters in the US. (Italian language, 2017)

5 History of fashion Since the thesis deals with the development of male fashion, a chapter is devoted to the historical development of menswear. This chapter briefly describes the history of male fashion with the emphasis on the western world, i.e. the fashion that was predominant in Europe and subsequently in America or penetrated the “western” world to an extent that it started to be worn and became a part of various fashion trends. This chapter briefly describes the trends in certain periods and the main pieces of clothing that had an impact on what was worn during a certain period. The chapter is divided into historical periods and since the modern history it is divided into centuries.

5.1 Ancient world The first civilications that will be dealt with are the Egyptian and the Greek and the Roman. The Egyptian clothing was adjusted to the warm weather that prevails until today, thus men dress lightly. Men usually did not wear anything over their torso. The upper class and pharaons wore a form of a kilt with the length to their knees, the lower classes, such as working men, wore only a piece of cloth that covered their private parts. About 1500 BC, the Egyptian men started to wore tunics. The natural fabrics were used. On their feet, Egyptian men usually wore sandals. (Laver, 1969, pp. 16-18) The Greek men’s clothing developed as well as the whole Greek culture from the Minoans, the Mycenaeans and ancient Greeks. From these cultures Greeks adopted the usage of clothing not only as covering of the body but also for decoration and enhancement the wearer in terms of beauty or a social aspect. Greek men usually wore a rectangular pieces of fabric, usually from linen or wool (Laver, 1969, p. 25). This rectangular piece of fabric resembled a cloak. The most common piece of clothing was a chlamys. Among other pieces of clothing that was worn very often was a chiton or himation. Concerning the headdress, the caps were usually functional, not fashionable. Nevertheless, wreaths were worn to indicate honour. Greek men could grow a beard according to their preference. The Greek men wore sandals, shoes or boots or in certain periods they were also barefoot. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp.119-157) The men of the Roman Empire adopted the culture of the Greeks and Etruscans. Generally, there can be said that the Romans cared about the way they were dressed.

In fact, they cared to an extent that they had rules about what to wear, we might call it an etiquette nowadays since there were restrictions about the colours or pieces of clothing that should or should not be worn in certain situations. Since the Romans conquered various parts of Europe of a cold climate, they adopted braccae. Another typical piece of clothing of Romans was a dalmatica, toga or tunica (Laver, 1969, p. 37). Concerning the haistyles Roman wore long hair and a long beard before the introduction of the razor. After it, the wore shorter hair, a hairstyle called Ceasar, popular until today. braids, curls or wigs were also worn. In terms of beards, before the razor the full beard was worn and after the introduction the clean shaved look was preferred. The Romans were the first one who developed an elaborated range of footwear. (Laver, 169, p. 37; Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 165-204)

5.2 Middle Ages

Even for the fashion the Middle Ages was the period of transition and transformation. The trends started to birth, although the actual development started with the Renaissance movement. The clothing of the Roman Empire was abandoned or altered due to practical and philosophical reasons. New tribes relied on different kinds of fabrics, chiefly wool. People usually wore more layers. They had a very light undertunic and over it a heavier piece of clothing that could protect them from the adverse weather conditions. Both sexes wore a belt that protected them from the wind and helped them keep warm. There was also used fur that could provide a good isolation during cold day but only the upper classes could afford soft and valuable furs like ermine. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 297-300) The turn came at the eleventh century when the upper class started to spend more on fashionable clothing. Due to the crusades, knight and merchants brought new fabrics and innovations into the western fashion. An example may be the beginning of professional tailoring. It resulted in upper classes having their clothes made bespoke, i.e. an item of clothing tailored precisely for their body. This expansion of tailoring provided the ground for the fashion of Renaissance and expansion of the extreme fashion in the fourteenth century. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 327; Laver, 169, p. 58) Unfortunately not much preserved about the clothing of people in early Middle Ages. The majority of paintings are of the religious character and thus it does not say

31 much about the everyday clothing. Another phenomenon that should be mentioned is that men wore an armour to a considerable extent. However, the armour does not belong into fashion and will not be dealt with in this thesis. In the next paragraphs there are introduced the most important pieces of clothing that were introduced in the Middle Ages. The bliaut and the cote were the most common types of clothing in the early Middle Ages. In the thirteenth centrury the hose replaced breeeches and became more common among the people. There happened to be new garments such as the houppelande, mantle, pourpoint or tabard. Concerning the headwear in the Middle Ages, there were several types of hairstyles and headdresses. But there is more known about the hairdresses than hairstyles due to people’s fondness of headwear rather than hairstyle. Although it is known from paintings that men acquired rather shorter hairstyles. The most common hairstyle was the bowl cut and tonsure. The most common headdresses were a coif and a beret. Another piece of clothing that became popular in the Middle Age was the hood. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 285-318) The footwear in the Middle Age period was as well as all the clothing the fusion of Roman influence and barbarian tribes. Generally, there can be said that shoes were made of leather and with the progress of tailoring became tailored bespoke as well as the clothing for the upper parts of the body. The most common shoes were poulaines, sometimes called cracowes. They were very fashionable among the young men. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 325-327; Laver, 1969, p. 71) The items that developed in the Middle Ages and should be mentioned are the gloves. They started to be produced around the twelfth century. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 322-323)

5.3 15th century The fifteenth century continued in the transformation that began at the end of the fourteenth century. The fashion of the fifteenth century is the key to understanding the western fashion since there happened to be the considerable turn in the behaviour of the people in terms of fashion. Before the fifteenth century and the Renaissance only the royal families could afford the various clothing. Since people started to acquire wealth, they started to be dressed more extravagantly and there happened to be a phenomenon that is called a trend nowadays. The trendsetters of the fifteenth century was Burgundy and Florence. They had an 32 amount of merchants and nobles who could afford better clothing and Europe would follow them. In the early fifteenth century there preserved wearing of the houppelande, tunic, or pourpoint. The last named evolved into a doublet that dominated in the fifteenth century (Laver, 1969, p. 81) and created a bridge between the long robes of the Middle Ages and the short and more fitted garments of the Renaissance. There was a first indication of the codpiece. At the end of the century also the padding appeared to make appearance of broader shoulders. The trend that began in the fifteenth century became really widespread in the sixteeth century. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 449-455) In terms of headwear, men generally were clean shaved, in England there was even a law that forbidded to grow a moustache. Concerning hair, there prevailed the tradition of the Middle Ages with the bowl cut. However, the bowl cut started to recede and Italian men wore curly hair and thus later in the fifteenth century Europe started to follow and men had longer hair. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 457- 458) The footwear of the fifteenth century also experienced an expansion. The shift came in the 1470’s to broad, chunky shoes started to be made. Sometimes men wore the hose so they did not need shoes or they wore the pattens. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 463-464)

5.4 16th century The 16th century meant the pivotal change not only in the fashion but also in the society as such due to the arrival of the Renaissance and Humanism. The Humanism was characteristic by the turn to the human being (Grudin, 2017). It was also reflected in fashion that became more colourful and elaborated. There was also a new influence on the fashion and it was the discovery of new lands such as America and India. European monarchs ruled all over the world and therefore started to think about how they could present their wealth and position. Hence they started to dress extravagantly in terms of fashion of that time. An example may be King Francis I of France who introduced lace into the fashion of men. Another monarch who dressed very fashionably was Henry III of France. There also were produced first books about fashion and etiquette. For instance, a book called The book of the Courtier, originally in Italian as Il Cortegiano, gave advice on manners, horse riding and fashion.

During this period many of notable pieces of clothing were created. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 466-471) A newly introduced item was the codpiece. The codpiece to be used in the fourteenth century but it was used predominantly in the fifteenth and especially in the sixteeth century. It was a a short jacket that provided a space for the genitals. Another piece of clothing that was often wore in the sixteenth century was the hose and breeches. They became more close-fitting in this century. There also was a mandalion. It was a cloak worn over the doublet or jerkin. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 473-482) The sixteenth century also introduced a few new accessories in the men’s fashion. The first was the bombast. Moreover, there were ruffs that were one of the most distinctive features of the sixteenth century. The last item that was introduced in the sixteenth century were the sleeves. Sometimes sleeves were automatically attached to the piece of clothing and sometimes it was a separate part of the outfit. Thus it was interchangeable and more of the outfit could be created. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 473-485) In terms of the headwear, namely hairstyle, there ws a trendsetter King Francis I of France who had his hair short. Even Henry VIII, the king of England, followed his style. Beards were trimmed and not too long in the upper class, the lower class had their beards untrimmed or poorly trimmed. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 487-489) There came also a new innovation – hankerchief. Hankerchiefs were known before but since the sixteenth century it was a piece of cloth used for decoration. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 498) The footwear methods advanced in the sixteenth century. Shoes were made of leather, sole were made of wood or cork. The shoes and boots became fancier in the design. It was seen predominantly upon the shoes of the upper class. They were rather fashionable than for a practical purpose. Pattens and pantofles were worn. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 501-504)

5.5 17th century The fashion of the seventeenth century was dominated by France and Spain. Both of the counties rose in power and formed the map of Europe. After the Thirty Years’ War, France under Louis XIV became the European power and dictated trends 34 in fashion. England was undergoing the civil war and due to the government of the Protestants, the simple clothing was more common at that period. Generally, the trends in Europe changed rapidly. The course of the fashion went from restrictive to comfortable (loose doublets or woman’s bodices) and back again to restrictive. There was a general tendency to look higher (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 547). The fashion was set by the royal familes and noblemen. However, there started to be the middle class that began to have an influence on fashion. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 511-512; Laver, 1969, p. 103) Due to the influence of the middle class, clothes started to be more elegant and less extravagant. Ornaments were present but only decorative and not in an excessively amount. Neverthless, Louis XIV of France kept the fashion restrictive and stiff. At his court he kept the set of rules. It is said that even the etiquette4 comes from the French court of the period of Louis XIV. The breeches were still worn and quite popular. The newly introduced item was the justacorps. It was the most commonly worn piece of clothing in the seventeenth century. It created a transition from the form-fitting doublet to the loosely fitting frock coat of the nineteenth century that was a precursor of a modern-day suit coat. Another new piece of clothing was the waistcoat. Its length was only to the waist, hence the name. It was in contrast to the majority of the clothing that were made below the waistline. It was the precursor of the tendency to make the attire for the upper body shorter. The waistline was complemented by the baldric. It was essential to the soldiers since it was used for carrying the sword. Today it seems just a military attire but in the seventeenth century almost every men carried a sword. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 514-527) The well-groomed hair was important for men in the seventeenth century. At the beginning of the century men wore long hair with lovelocks (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 487). Lovelocks were a small lock of hair cascaded from the top of the head down to the shoulder. They were longer than the rest of the hair. The facial hair was also quite long. Men wore moustaches or full or pencil lined beards. Inspired by the court of Louis XIV, men started wear wigs. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 529-534)

4 The set of rules defining how people should behave and dress in certain situations. 35

A cane started to be used as an accessory, same as gloves that usually form a stylish outfit. The walking sticks were carried before the seventeenth century but in this century they started to be specially crafted and designed. Another item introduced in the seventeenth century was a cravat, the ancestor of a modern necktie. It was introduced in the middle of the century. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 536-543) The shape of the shoes started to change from the slip-ons to more fitting. The shoes also started to be more of a square shape than being round. Shoes also started to have heels up to several centimeters. The used material was still leather, the upper class used different materials for decorations. The frequently worn footwear were boots. High-heeled shoes started to be worn since they were popularised by the court of Louis XIV. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 545-547) Shoes were decorated with ribbons, different types of fastenings such as buckles or straps. There also were shoes roses that decorated the shoe. They were two ribbons twisted in a way that they formed a rosette. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 549- 550)

5.6 18th century The eighteenth century was marked by the significant changes. The economy changed as well as the administration of certain countries. The main event that affected the development of clothing was the Industrial revolution and in terms of state affairs the main events were the American and French Revolution. The middle class of workers and shopkeepers was formed. Merchants who started to influence the economy in the previous century had more wealth due to trade with the US and as a result of this they were capable of competing with noble houses in wealth, thus they could afford better clothing. The French revolution had the main effect on the clothing in Europe at the end of the century. This revolution shifted the fashion power from France to England. Besides this, it affected the trend that was called à la victim (like a victim) according to which people were dressed like victims of the French Revolution that were executed (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 563). The United Kingdom’s culminated political and economic power also projected in the clothing. Thus by the end of the century, England became the center of fashion. Since the middle class participated in fashion, there was a general tendency to simplier and less decorative clothing. By the end of the eighteenth century the unadorned clothing became so fashionable

36 so that the royal family started to wear it. The only difference between the clothing of the royal family and the normal people was in the quality of fabric. It implies that the royal familes ceased to be the trendsetters in fashion. Overall, the clothing started to be simplified. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 551-557). Breeches started to be displaced by trousers that were worn by working men also in the seventeenth century but only at the end of the century they became fashionable. They were firstly worn as the idea of equality of the French Revolution. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 573) The wigs were still vital for the majority of the century. In comparison to the previous century, there were smaller and shorter. By the the end of the century they were abandoned (Laver, 1969, p. 152). In the eighteenth century men accessorised themselves with the items of the previous century. There also were new items that enriched their outfits. Men started to carry a pocket watch. The footwear of the eighteenth century usually signalled the status of its wearer, the main indicator of the status was the buckle. This trend, however, died out by the end of the century with the French Revolution. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 586-597)

5.7 19th century If the eighteenth century was marked by significat changes then the nineteenth century totally changed the wardrobe of the western fashion. During the century, the manufactures were established and new discoveries such as the railway was made. That enabled the affordable clothing for more people. All that was supported by transportation routes to the United States that emerged into the great economic power and participated on the clothing industry. The establishement of manufactures also created a new working class as well as a wealthy middle class. Also new fashion magazines were established by the end of the century so the trends stopped being set by monarchs or noblemen. In general, people became richer and had more leisure time and it was reflected also in the clothing. By the end of the century, first retail shops were introduced. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 599-602) The main colour for men’s attire became plain and black and this endured until present day. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 605-607) Since people could enjoy the leisure time, people started to enjoy recreational swimming, thus the swimming costume emerged. The first swimming costume looked almost like

37 everyday clothes since it covered practically the whole body. Another new article were jeans, especially blue jeans. Firstly it was a worker’s attire. During the nineteenth century there emerged several types of new coats. There was still a frock coat or newly a peacoat. There was introduced a blazer. It was a blue jacket with golden buttons. It started to be worn at sport activities. There also was a Norfolk jacket that became popular for men of all classes. Newly there was a dinner jacket, it became the formal attire for the upper class. From the dinner jacket emerged the mess jacket and tuxedo. In the mid-nineteenth century a new new type of suit was introduced – a ditto suit. All of the parts (jacket, trousers, waistcoat) of the ditto suit were made of the same fabric. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 609-624; Laver, 1969, p. 158) In the nineteenth century there also emerged new accessories for men. An example may be an ascot. After the peak in popularity in the 1890’s it started to be displaced by bowties. There newly emerged a monocle. The single eyeglass that was worn by men of the upper class. It was usually worn for creation of the superior look. Monocles were never regarded as solution for vision problem, it was worn only for a fashionable effect. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 642-651) Men started to wear various types of boots and shoes. At the beginning of the century the tall boots were worn, they later developed into half-boots that covered a leg up to the half of the calf. It demonstrated the tendency of shortening the boots. The slippers that were made of satin were worn for formal occasion, usually with the dinner jacket. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 643-658)

5.8 20th and 21th century The twentieth century is one of the most complicated phases of human history. Since this period was affected by the wars that influenced not only the society as such but also the clothing, this period is devided into three phases: before World War One, between the wars and after World War Two.

5.8.1 Before World War One The first decades in the twentieth century meant the transition in the world of fashion. The seasonal trends emerged as well as the fashion shows. The fashion ceased to be concern of the upper class only. Besides all of this, with the development of manufactures, ready-to-wear clothing started to be. It allowed the mass production and

38 thus also the interest in fashion of lower classes. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 663-664) Men’s attire for nonmanual work was the sack suit. From the new clothing, a tweed jacket was introduced. Another piece of clothing that became popular was the trench coat, a water repellent coat. For the first time there was a focus on the underwear. Before the twentieth century the underwear was in the form of the union suit. Newly there emerged a new way of fastening of clothing – the zipper. This device became more popular throughout the century. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 670-692) Men were usually clean shaved except for the old men who wore beards or moustaches. Men still wore a several types of hats and caps. The top hat, bowler or panama hat were worn. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 699-700) The most common accessories at the beginning of the twentieth century were the pocket watch and walking stick. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 706-707) Concerning the footwear, there were made rubber soles for the first time. Shoes made due to the manufacturing more affordable and there was a larger offer of shoes. For instance, newly introduced converse shoes were made for athletics and for formal occasions there were oxfords. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 718)

5.8.2 Between the Wars The period between the wars was an economic roller coaster. The European countires were recovering from the war. The United States were on the rise, they supplied Europe and became the strongest economy in the world. It reflected in the widening of the middle class and higher standards of living. However, in the thirties the Gret Depression striked and influenced the economy of the entire world. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 721; Ibid. 781) The style of men’s clothing changed after the war. Clothing became looser. Men’s ties started to be decorated unlike the ascot that was in one colour and new lighter fabrics were introduced. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 726-727) In the thirties, due to the depression, first cheap imitations started to be produced. Nevertheless, the Second World War disrupted the fashion development. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 789) The looser garments started to be produced. New trousers emerged and they were called oxford bags since they were very loose and worn at Oxford university. In the twenties, pyjamas became popular and started to be worn as the sleeping attire.

There were also newly introduced plus-fours, a variation of traditional knee pants. Sportwear, namely poloshirts started to be produced (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 790). In the thirties, the suit was the basic attire of a male. In terms of the causal attire, the thirties brought the t-shirt. So far it was used as an undergarment. With the outbreak of the war, the military uniform became the most common attire of the man. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 794-809) The hairstyle of men did not change drastically in the twenties. During the thirties the typical hairstyle was waivy hair called the pompadour and shaved face. From the hats and caps, a derby and fedora became popular.

5.8.3 After World War Two The world was devastated by the Second World War and divided into two blocks. One under the dominance of the United States and the second under the Soviet Union. In the United Stated the economy started to boom in the fifties. With the rise of new devices like television, fashion could spread among more people and thus started to influence the lives of people. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 847-850) The second part of the century is marked by several new movements, from hippies to metal, punk or skate subcultures and some of these subcultures contributed in fashion. Many social movements were established and movie stars or musicians started on influence fashion (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 889-892). Since the eighties the world started to be shaped in the way we know it today (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 969). New technologies were discovered and since the nineties there was the internet that could spread fashion faster than ever before. The clothing in the fifties was marked by the rise of ready-to-wear clothing. Due to the manufacturing of military clothing, the production of clothing was simplified. The sixties and seventies were the decades of changes. Young people tried to keep up with the latest trends. The main change in comparison to the previous decades was that the designers created a new line of clothing, the rich bought the original and retail shops sold the less expensive copies. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 847-850) In the sixties there were many subcultures or groups that started to wear differently to express their opinion. For instance hippies or the Peacock Revolution. In the seventies the rules about clothing started to be more benevolent and men wore t-

40 shirts in the streets. Musicians wore ripped jeans and it influenced also the fashion of this period. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 895-898) In the eighties and nineties the fashion was influenced by the music bands. In the nineties there was a general tendency to wear loose garments that provided comfort and casuality. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, pp. 975-979) In the next century the fashion started to be influenced by fashion bloggers as well as the brands and musicians. After the Second World War there were introduced many new items, namely the jeans, t-shirt and leather jacket. The aim was to be dressed outside of the accepted norm. (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 865) New materials were introduced so there were plastic shoes, usually in a form of sandals (Ibid. p. 884). After the dramatic changes in the sixties by the hippies movement, the eighties and nineties were typical for their baggy pants (Pendergast & Pendergast, 2013, p. 982). The next century returns to slimmer clothing. Generally, in the twenty-first century there is a tendency to wear slimmer trousers and the upper garment that creates wider shoulders. It is applicable to suits as well as common clothing.

6 Corpus analysis This chapter is devoted to the analysis of the corpus that is listed in the Appendix section. The author asks three main research questions: Q1: In terms of language origin: What is the language that the majority of fashion vocabulary comes from? Q2: In terms of time period of origin: Which period was the majority of the fashion vocabulary formed in? Q3: In terms of word formation: How is the vocabulary of fashion chiefly created? The author attempts to support or rebut the general tendency that the English terminology English of fashion is predominantly from the French language. Each chapter consists of the graphs that gives the actual value of the phenomenon and the percentage ratio of the identified phenomena. The graphs are accompanied by an explanation.

6.1 Head This chapter analyses the terms of the corpus that are connected to the head, as a part of a body.

6.1.1 Language origin This chapter deals with terminology related to legs from the perspective of the language origin. The aim is to find the original languages where the words come from. In the case of compounds, they are not futher analysed but the first usage is seeked. In terms of domestic (English) words, if the period of is not given, the author uses the first mention of usage in the particular form in accordance with the classification given in the chapter History of English. If the word could originate in two languages, both languages are included. In the case that the word is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came from into English. The periods of Early Modern English and Modern English are fused into one period of Modern English. The analysis of the corpus of headdress section brought these results.

70 62 60 50 40 27 30 20 12 6 8 5 10 2 1 2 1 3 2 2 1 1 2 1 4 2 1 1 3 1 1 1

Irish

Latin

Hindi

Celtic

Greek

Malay

Italian

Arabic

French

English

Yiddish

Turkish

Persian

Punjabi

Catalan

Russian

Spanish

Hebrew

Scottish

German

Armenian

EnglishUS

Hybridorigin Anglo-Norman Unknownorigin Table 1. The number of occurrences based on the language origin criterion.

English English US 1% 1% 1% Unknown origin 1% 1% Latin 1% 1% 1% 1% Hybrid origin 1% 2% 1% 3% 3% Celtic 1% Hindi 2% French 1% 41% Catalan Spanish Turkish 18% Italian Irish Punjabi German 8% 5% 4% Greek Persian 1% Arabic 1% 1% Anglo-Norman Hebrew Armenian Yiddish Malay Russian Scottish Table 2. The percentage ratio of the occurrences according to the language origin criterion

As we can see from Table 1 in terms of fashion items related to the head, the English language is the prominent source, with 62 occurrences, which equals 41% of occurrences from all languages. It is the majority of the occurrences. The second most frequent language is French, followed by terms of hybrid origin. This speaks against the assumption that the French language is the main source of the terms in fashion since it is represented only by 18% of the terms.

Nevertheless, French follows the English as a source. Since the English and French languages comprise the majority of the corpus, they are further analysed.

1; 2% 8; 13%

Middle English 30; 48% Old English 23; 37% Modern English Unknown Period

Table 3. The English language in the headdress section according to the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

Concerning the English language (the first number gives the number of occurrences and the second number is the percentage ratio), the majority of terms are, however, of the unknown period. The terms from the unknown period are usually compounds. Compounds such as double terai hat that is named after the region in Nepal that was under control of Britain in the modern period or Gandhi cap that named after the person who lived in the 19th and 20th century, that is the modern era of the English language. So analogically the majority of terms of the unknown period could be included in the period of Modern English, yet there is no publication to claim so. Therefore the author sticks to the designation of the unknown period. Regarding the French language, the results were as seen in Table 4.

2; 7%

13; 48% Middle French 12; 45% Modern French Old French

Table 4. French language in the head section according to the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

The French language follows the scheme of the English language. However, in contrast to the English language in the percentage ratio, predominant is the old variation, i.e. Old French that covers 48% of the ratio. In contrast

44 to Old English that covers only 13% of the ratio. Middle French is represented only by two occurrences. This might be due to the fact that French influenced English in the Middle Ages (thus the varion of Old French) whereas English vocabulary was formed mainly in the modern period. The part of the head section also is comprised of the hairstyles and beards section and the fabrics and accessories section.

1; 1% 1; 1% 1; 1% English 2; 3% 6; 8% English US 8; 10% 1; 1% Unknown origin 3; 4% Latin 57; 71% Hybrid origin Hawaiin Hebrew French Iroquoian

Table 5. Hairstyles and beards, occurrences and the percentage ratio according to the language origin criterion.

The dominant language in terms of hairstyles and beards as it is seen in Table 5 is the English language with 57 occurrences, which is 71% of the all terms. The second frequent terms were of hybrid origin with 8 occurrences (10%) followed by French with 6 occurrences (8%). The surprising fact is that there occurred languages like Hawaiin or Iroquoian even though with only one entry. This section follows the same pattern with English as the predominant language. French with only 6 occurrences is not of much influence on terminology. The English language is further analysed.

3; 5% 4; 7% Middle English 27; 48% Old English 23; 40% Modern English Unknown Period

Table 5. The English languge in the hairstyles and beards section according to the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

The results in the haistyles and beards section are similar to the head section. As can be seen in Table 3 of the head section, in the hairstyles section the predominant role is played by the unknown period followed by the Modern English period (See Table 5). The last segment of the head corpus was the fabrics and accessories section.

1; 2% 1; 2% 1; 2% English 2; 3% 1; 2% Scottish 3; 5% 1; 2% 1; 2% Sanskrit 22; 39% French Hindi Italian 21; 37% Origin unknown Hybrid origin Dutch 1; 2% Anglo-French 1; 2% Persian

Table 6. Fabrics and accessories, occurrences and the percentage ratio according to the language origin criterion.

This section is still predominanted by the English language. However, French has only one occurrence less than the English language. This implies to the fact that the fabrics and accessories could be more frequently from the French language. The English and French language are further analysed due its prominent occurrence.

4; 18% 5; 23% Middle English Old English 7; 32% 6; 27% Modern English Unknown period

Table 7. The English language in the fabrics and accessories section, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

As it can be seen, all the periods are distributed evenly. The very slight dominance is held by Modern English but that is visible only in the ratio. However, no period is clearly predominant. The next language was French with twenty-one occurrences.

1; 5%

5; 24% 7; 33% Middle French Modern French Old French 8; 38% Old North French

Table 8. The French language in the fabrics and accessories section, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

Concerning the French language, the majority of terms originate in modern French. However, Old French has only one occurrence less. The surprising is the occurrence of Old North French. If it was counted together with Old French, the number would be equal to modern French.

Generally, there can be said that terms related to the head are predominantly from the English language followed by the French language. Both of these languages, however, have in common the fact that terms usually stem from the modern period of the language (see Table 3, Table 5 and Table 8). This may be due to the fact that 47 the fashion of the upper body developed mainly in the later years with the development of fashion described in the chapter History of fashion. Concerning the French language, in the fabrics and accessories section its occurrence is more prominent than in previous two sections and the number of occurrences almost equals to the occurrences of the English language.

6.1.2 Time period This chapter deals with the time period in which the terms were formed. If the date is not stated directly, OE is classified as before the twelfth century, ME as the fourteenth century, lME as the fifteenth century and Early Modern English as the sixteenth century. If the word had a different meaning in the past, the chosen date designates when the word was used in relation to fashion. The headdress section was firstly analysed and brought these results.

before 12th century 1; 1% 13th century 9; 6% 6; 4% 11; 7% 14th century 55; 36% 11; 7% 15th century 4; 3% 16th century 17th century 5; 3% 18th century 45; 30% 19th century

5; 3% 20th century 21th century Unknown Period

Table 9. Occurrences and the percentage ratio in the headdress section from the time period perspective.

As it is seen, the most frequent are the terms from the unknown period. It implies the connection with the previous criterion of language origin where the terms of unknown origin were very frequent. If the unknown period is ignored, there can be seen that the majority of terms were formed in the nineteenth century followed by the fourteenth and sixteenth century. Nevertheless, the nineteenth century with 45 occurrences, which is 30% of all terms,

48 represents the majority. This result corresponds with the results gained in the previous subchapter. The next category analysed based on the time period criterion is the hairstyles and beards section.

1; 1% 3; 4% 2; 3% 4; 5% 4; 5% before 12th century 13th century 2; 3% 14th century 15th century 41; 51% 9; 11% 16th century 17th century 13; 16% 18th century 19th century 20th century 21th century Unknown period 1; 1%

Table 10. Occurrences and the percentage ratio in the hairstyles and beards section from the time period perspective.

The hairstyles and beards section follows the scheme of the headdress section. The most prominent are the terms with the unknown period with 41 occurrences, which equals to 51% of all terms. However, the predominant century after the terms with unknown period of origin is the twentieth century with 13 occurrences that stands in contrast to the headdress section.

before 12th century 1; 2% 2; 4% 13th century 1; 2% 8; 14% 9; 16% 14th century 4; 7% 2; 4% 15th century 16th century 8; 14% 9; 16% 17th century 18th century 5; 9% 7; 12% 19th century 20th century 21th century Unknown period

Table 11. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms of the fabrics and accessories section based the time period criterion.

As it is seen from the graph, it is different from the previous two graphs. The majority of terms in fabrics and accessories thus comes from the sixteenth (blue) and fourteenth (green) century. This is followed by the unknown period but after that with only one occurrence less there is the seventeenth century.

Generally, the corpus related to the head was formed predominantly in the modern era. However, the great number of terms is of the unknown period and thus the results may be inaccurate concerning all the terms. However, there could be assumed which period the term is from, e.g. Garibaldi beard is named after the Italian revolutionist, yet there is no definite time period from which it started to be used. It may be the nineteenth as well as the twentieth century. Since this guessing could be more inaccurate and it is avoided. For it could deform the results more than the designation of the unknown period. The change occurs in the fabrics and accessories section where many terms originate in the fourteenth century in contrast to previous two sections that predominantly stem in the nineteenth and twentieth century.

6.1.3 Word formation This chapter deals with word formation of terms in the head section. The methodogy of classifying terminology is crucial, thus there are a few clarification of how the terms are classified. If the term comes from the language that uses a different script, it is classified as an adapted loan since it had to be adjusted to the script the English language uses. If two word formations are possible, both of them are included. In the case the term is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came into English. If the word is a compound, neither the modificator nor the base is further analysed. The only distinction that is made is the solid, hyphenated and open compound. The terminology of headdress is analysed, followed by the hairstyles and accessories and fabrics. Concerning the headdress, the majority of terms are the compounds (namely 42% of all term). The majority of compound (see Table 13) are open compounds.

Compounds are followed by the domesticated loans with 38 occurrences. The terms of domesticated loans may vary in the extent they were domesticated. From the term basinet that from OFr bacinet, that is just slightly phonologically adapted to the term crown that is almost unrecognizable from AN cor(o)une and OFr corone. Since the term crown underwent a long period of domestication, it seems like a domestic word even though it is a domesticated loan.

3; 2% Domestic 10; 7% 4; 3% 9; 6% 2; 1% Domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 38; 25% Borrowings

Compounds 63; 42% 22; 14% Shortening

Derivation

Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Table 12. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the headdress based on the word formation criterion.

60 52 50

20 10 10 1 0 Solid Hyphenated Open

Table 13. Occurrences of the compounds in the headdress section based on the word formation criterion.

Another section is hairstyles and beards (see Table 14). Concerning this section, the pattern is almost the same. The compounds form the majority of all the terms (53 occurrences, 67%), followed by the domesticated loans and domestic terms

(both with 6 occurrences). The compounds are predominantly open (see Table 15), as an example may be introduced anchor beard, Caesar cut , chin curtain beard or circle beard.

Domestic 3; 4% 3; 4% 1; 1% Domesticated/phonologically 1; 1% 2; 2% adapted loans 6; 8% 6; 8% 4; 5% Borrowings Compounds

Shortening

53; 67% Derivation

Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Unknown formation

Table 14. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the hairstyles and beards based on the word formation criterion.

40 38

15 12 10

5 3

0 Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 15. Occurrences of the compounds in the hairstyle and beard section.

Among the terms of fabrics and accessories there happens to appear a change. Even though compounds are still frequent, the majority of terms are domesticated loans or borrowings. Even in terms of compounds (see Table 17) there happens to appear a change. The majority are not the open compounds but it it almost evenly divided between solid and open compounds.

domestic 1; 2; 3% 1; 2% 2% 1; 2% domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 7; 13% borrowings

15; 28% compounds shortening 20; 37% derivation 7; 13% conversion

Derived from the proper name

unknown formation

Table 16. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the fabrics and accessories in the head section based on the word formation criterion.

9 8 8 7 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 17. Occurrences of compounds in fabrics and accessories of the head section based on the word formation criterion.

The head section is formed predominantly from compounds. That can be applicable to headdress and hairstyles and beard. However, the fabrics and accessories are in terms of the word formation chiefly domesticated loans or borrowing that stands in contrast to previous two sections.

6.2 Torso This chapter analyses the terms of the corpus that are connected to the torso, as a part of a body.

6.2.1 Language origin This chapter deals with terminology related to legs from the perspective of the language origin. The aim is to find the original languages where the words come 53 from. In the case of compounds, they are not futher analysed but the first usage is seeked. In terms of domestic (English) words, if the period of is not given, the author uses the first mention of usage in the particular form in accordance with the classification given in the chapter History of English. If the word could originate in two languages, both languages are included. In the case that the word is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came from into English. The periods of Early Modern English and Modern English are fused into one period of Modern English The analysis of the corpus of the torso clothing brought these results.

70 63 60

50 44 40 30 20 10 10 7 7 7 1 1 2 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0

Table 18. The number of occurrences in the torso clothing section according to the language origin criterion.

1; 1% 1; 1% 1; 1% 1; 1% 1; 1% English 7; 5% 1; 1% 1; 1% 1; 1% English US 3; 2% Anglo-Norman 1; 1% Latin Hybrid 63; 41% Italian Hindi 44; 29% French Eskimo Portuguese Spanish Greek 7; 5% 7; 5% 10; 6% Yoruba American Spanish Dutch Kiswahili 1; 1% Japanese 2; 1% 1; 1% Burmese Aleut

Table 19. The percentage ratio and occurrences in the torso clothing section according to the language origin criterion.

As it is seen from the both of the graphs. The terms in the torso clothing section chiefly originate in the English or French language. The English language with 63 occurrences is the dominant language, followed by French (44 occurrences). Another categories that were significant in relation to origin were terms with hybrid origin. That may be for example baja jacket that is named by the Spanish area Baja in California. Another significant language is Latin or Hindi with words like cummerbund (from Hindi kamarband ) or dungarees (from Hindi dongerijns). Although these terms are considered as a normal part of the English language, they originate in a different language. In this chapter, there also appear various types of languages, such as Japanese, e.g. kimono from Japanese kimono (17c), literally "a thing put on” or Eskimo, e.g. anorak, from Greenland Eskimo anoraq. The hypothesis that French is chiefly the language of origin is not proven. Nevertheless, the most frequent languages are English and French. Therefore, they are analysed deeply.

6; 10% 6; 9% 5; 8% Middle English Modern English

46; 73% Old English Unknown Period

Table 20. Occurrences and percentage ratio of the terms in the English language in torso section according to the language origin criterion.

As it is projected in Table 20, the majority of English terms that are related to the torso clothing originate in Modern English (46 occcurences) followed by another periods divided by six and five occurrences. The second language with the most terms was French.

1; 2% 5; 11% Middle French 20; 46% Modern French 18; 41% Old French Old North French

Table 21. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms of the French language in the torso section according to the language origin criterion.

The terms in the torso clothing section that had origin in French chiefly came from Old French. With 20 occurrences that equals to 46% of all terms. It is followed by modern French with 18 occurrences that is 41% of all terms that originate in the French language. Middle French is represented by 5 occurrences and Old North French by one occurrence that together equal 13%. The next analysed area is the section of fabrics.

English 1; 1% 1; 1% 2; 2% Latin 1; 1% 1; 1% 1; French 1; 1% 1; 1% 4; 3% 1; 1% 1% Malay Spanish 3; 2% 2; 2% 3; Dutch 9; 7% 2% 42; 34% Middle Dutch Unknown origin Hindi Italian Bengali Punjabi 46; 37% Portuguese 3; 2% Anglo-French Sanskrit Scottish 1; 1% Chinese Old Provençal Table 22. Fabrics in torso section, occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms according to the language origin criterion.

As it is seen, the most occurrences (46) are represented by French and after that English (42). It stands in contrast to previous graphs concerning the language origin where English was the dominant language. On contrary to previous results it supports the theory that French is the language the majority of fashion vocabulary comes from. English is followed by the category of the unknown origin with 9 occurrences. The interesting occurrence is the word velvet that comes from Old Provençal veluet. Besides, there appear various types of languages, such as Scottish, Protuguese, Dutch or even Middle Dutch. The next languages that have up to three occuurrences are Latin, Spanish, Hindi, Italian or Hindi. The French and English are further analysed since they have the largest number of occurrences.

5; 11% 15; 33% Middle French Modern French 26; 56% Old French

Table 23. The French language in the fabrics section, occurrences and percentage ratio of the terms according to the language origin criterion.

As the Table 23 indicate, the majority of the occurrences are from the period of modern French (26), almost twice the following Old French (15). The least occurrences (5) is from the period of Middle French. The next language is English.

1; 2%

7; 17%

17; 40% Middle English Modern English 17; 41% Old English Unknown Period

Table 24. The English language in the fabrics section, occurrences and percentage ratio of the terms according to the language origin criterion.

While French mainly originated in the modern period, English terms of fabrics are originated evenly from Old English and Modern English, both with 17 occurrences. Middle English has seven occurrences and one occurrence is of the unknown period. The last part of the torso section that is dealt with is the accessories section.

1; 2% 1; 1% 1; 2% English 1; 1% 1; 2% 1; 2% 2; 3% French 1; 1% 3; 5% Anglo-French 2; 3% Latin 29; 46% Anglo-Norman Flemish Greek 20; 32% Arabic Scottish English US Tahitian Unknown origin

Table 24. Accessories in torso section, occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms according to the language origin criterion.

The majority (46% and 29 occurrences) of terms related to accessories are from the English language. It is followed by French with 20 occurrences that equals to 32% of the terms related to the accessories. All other languages have up to three occurrences. They are for example Latin, Greek, Scottish or Tahitian that enriched the English language with a word tattoo. Since English and French are dominant in this area, they are further analysed.

4; 14% 3; 10% Middle English 10; 35% Modern English 12; 41% Old English Unknown Period

Table 25. The English language in the accessories section, occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms according to the language origin criterion.

The most of terminology related to the accessories in terms of the English language originate in Old English that with 12 occurrences (41%) is followed by Modern English with 10 occurrences (35%).

2; 10%

6; 30% Middle French 12; 60% Modern French Old French

Table 26. The French language in the accessories section, occurrences and ratio of the terms based on the language origin criterion.

In contrast to English, the terminology that comes from French chiefly originates in Old French (12 occurrences) that is followed by Modern French (6 occurrences) and Middle French.

In general, concerning the terminology of the torso area, French is of more prominent role than in the head section. However, only in the fabrics section it predominated English. In other parts, such as accessories and torso clothing, the English language is the predominant source. The terminology originates chiefly in modern periods in terms of both languages. However, in the accessories section the old variations dominate (see Table 25 and Table 26). Regarding French as the main source of the terminology of fashion. It was not proven. Nevertheless, French dominated in the fabrics section.

6.2.2 Time period This chapter deals with the time period in which the terms of the torso section were formed. If the date is not stated directly, OE is classified as before the twelfth century, ME as the fourteenth century, lME as the fifteenth century and Early Modern

English as the sixteenth century. If the word had a different meaning in the past, the chosen date designates when the word was used in relation to fashion. The torso clothing section brought these results.

7; 4% 5; 3% before 12th century 18; 12% 13th century 16; 10% 7; 5% 14th century 29; 19% 15th century 11; 7% 16th century 15; 10% 17th century 37; 24% 10; 6% 18th century 19th century 20th century 21th century

Table 27. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms of the torso clothing section from the time period perspective.

The terminology related to the torso clothing section, as it is visible in Table 27, is predominantly formed in the nineteenth (37 occurrences) and the twentieth century (29 occurrences). Together it gives 43% of all terms related to the torso clothing. It is followed by the unknown period and the seventeenth and fourteenth century (18, 16 and 15 occurrences respectively). These results imply that the majority of termilonogy of today’s clothing was formed in the modern era. The rest of terminology was formed spasmodically in the fourteenth and seventeenth century. If we look at the fabrics in the torso section. The results are almost similar.

1; 1% before 12th century

14; 12% 17; 14% 5; 4% 13th century 14th century 11; 9% 30; 26% 15th century 6; 5% 16th century

11; 9% 17th century 14; 12% 9; 8% 18th century 19th century 20th century 21th century

Table 28. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms of the fabrics in the torso section from the time period perspective.

The majority of terminology in the fabrics section (Table 28) was formed in the nineteenth century (30 occurrences). However, in comparison with the torso clothing section, the twentieth century is not so dominant and shares the position with the eighteenth century (both 14 occurrences). There is another contrast, terminology that originates before the twelfth century contains 17 occurrences in contrast to the torso clothing section (cf. in Table 27) with only 7 occurrences. These results imply that the terminology of fabrics was formed early and then as it can be seen from the graph, the development was distributed evenly in the centuries. Nevertheless, the modern era, i.e. eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth century brought an expansion in terms of fabrics. The last section that is analysed in the torso section from the time period perspective is the section of accessories. It provides interesting data.

1; 2% before 12th century 13th century 6; 9% 12; 18% 8; 12% 3; 5% 14th century 15th century 7; 10% 13; 19% 16th century 6; 9% 17th century 7; 10% 4; 6% 18th century 19th century 20th century 21th century

Table 29. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the terms of the accessories in the torso section from the time period perspective.

As we see from the chart, the majority of the terminology is from in the period before the twelfth century and in the fourteenth century. That is surprising when we know that the general knowledge about fashion is that accessories were featured later with the development not only the industry but also with the wealth of the people. Nevertheless, e.g. bracelet from OFr bracelet (14c.), broach from OFr broche (14c), button from OFr boton (14c) or ring from OE hring demonstrate that many of accessories were used already in stated periods. The possible explanation may be that as many items in fashion, even accessories go “in” and “out” of style and thus they are or they are not used.

Overall, the period the terms of the torso section chiefly originates in the modern era, i.e. the nineteenth and twentieth century. However, in terms related to the fabrics and accessories there appears to be a slight tendency to the past. The periods are distributed more evenly and older periods contain more terms. In terms of accessories, the periods of the fourteenth century and before the 12th century are predominant.

6.2.3 Word formation This chapter deals with word formation of terms in the torso section. The methodogy of classifying terminology is crucial, thus there are a few clarification of how the terms are classified. If the term comes from the language that uses a different

63 script, it is classified as an adapted loan since it had to be adjusted to the script the English language uses. If two word formations are possible, both of them are included. In the case, the term is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came into English. If the word is a compound, neither the modificator nor the base is further analysed. The only distinction that is made is the solid, hyphenated and open compound. Firstly the torso clothing section is analysed, followed by fabrics and accessories.

Domestic 2; 1% 1; 1% Domesticated/phonologically 9; 6% 7; 4% adapted loans 6; 4% 1; 1% Borrowings Compounds 50; 32% Shortening 52; 34% Derivation

27; 17% Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Unknown formation

Calque

Table 30. The torso clothing section from the word formation perspective, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

As we can see, the majority of the chart is taken by compounds that cover 34% with 52 occurrences. It is followed by the domesticated words with 50 occurrences and the borrowings are last considerable group with 27 occurrences. The compounds as we see in Table 30 are mostly open with 61% (32 occurrences) of all compounds, followed by the solid compounds with 33% (17 occurrences). A very interesting group is the domesticated loans. They are no further distinguished. However, in this category, there can be found terms with little alteration such as garb from MFr garbe to cummerbund from Hindi kamarband whose form does not remind of the Hindi language. Besides, there appears an interesting kind of word formation and that is a calque. However, there is no full calque. An example may be surcoat – half-calque and borr.

64 from OFr surcote. As we can see, the word is only a half-calque, i.e. only the half of the term is directly translated. In this case from French. Another example is pea jacket that is a half calque from Dutch pijjjekker. Moreover, there are terms derived from the proper names such as blazer or cardigan.

Solid Hyphenated Open

Table 31. Compounds in torso clothing section, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

The next part that is analysed is the fabrics section.

Domestic

1; 1% Domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 1; 1% 18; 15% 19; 16% Borrowings 7; 6% Compounds 4; 3%

16; 14% 35; 29% Shortening

Derivation 18; 15% Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Unknown formation

Table 32. Fabrics in the torso section from the word formation perspective, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

Terms of the fabrics are frequently domesticated loans. Even there are many types of loans such as gauze - from Fr. gaze with minimal alteration to mohair - from MFr mocayart that is almost unrecognizable from its original form. There are many

65 domestic terms (19 occurrences) as well as borrowings (18 occurrences). Compounds in fabrics are not very frequent. However, if there is a compound, it is usually a solid compound (see Table 32). The interesting finding is that many fabrics’ names are derived from the proper names. Examples may be cashmere named after the Himalayan kingdom, damask named after Damascus, denim whose name is derived from Fr. serge de Nîmes or the term georgette that is named after Georgette de la Plante, a French dressmaker.

5; 31%

10; 63% 1; 6%

Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 33. Compounds in fabrics of torso section, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

The accessories copy the pattern of the fabrics. As we can see in Table 34, the domesticated loans are the most frequent with 27 occurrences (41%). Followed by domestic terms (12 occurrences) and borrowings (7 occurrences). As it is seen in Table 35, compounds are only solid or open. An example maybe cufflink that sometimes is considered as word of a single base.

Domestic

2; 3% 3; 4% Domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 7; 11% 12; 18% Borrowings

8; 12% Compounds Shortening 7; 11% 27; 41% Derivation

Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Unknown formation

Table 34. Accessories in torso section from the word formation perspective.

0 Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 35. Occurrences of compounds in accessories.

Generally, the torso section in terms of word formation is predominantly formed by domesticated loans. Nevertheless, also in the torso clothing section it is closely followed by compounds. In terms of fabrics and accessories, the domesticated loans are of the largest proportion in the chart. In terms of compounds, the torso section is formed predominantly by solid compounds.

6.3 Legs This chapter analyses the terms of the corpus that are connected to the legs, as a part of a body.

6.3.1 Language origin

This chapter deals with terminology related to legs from the perspective of the language origin. The aim is to find the original languages where the words come from. In the case of compounds, they are not futher analysed but the first usage is seeked. In terms of domestic (English) words, if the period of is not given, the author

67 uses the first mention of usage in the particular form in accordance with the classification given in the chapter History of English. If the word could originate in two languages, both languages are included. In the case that the word is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came from into English. The periods of Early Modern English and Modern English are fused into one period of Modern English The analysis of legs clothing brought this data.

1; 2% 1; 2% 1; 2% 1; 2% 2; 4% English 1; 2% English US Latin 6; 12% Hybrid French 32; 64% 2; 4% Spanish 1; 2% Unknown origin 2; 4% Japanese Hindi Old Norse

Table 36. The legs clothing from the language origin perspective, the occurrences and percentage ratio.

The majority of the terms originate in the English language with 32 occurrences, which covers 32% of all terms. The next language with a considerable number of occurrences was French, although with only 6 occurrences it is negligible in comparison with English. Other languages like Spanish, Hindi, Latin or Japanese have up to 2 occurrences. Since the English language forms the majority of the terminology, it is further analysed. As can be seen in Table 37, the most terms originate in Modern English, which covers almost 60% of all English terms. It is followed almost evenly by Middle and Old English as well as made in an uknown period.

4; 13% 4; 12%

5; 16%

19; 59%

Middle English Modern English Old English Unknown period

Table 37. The English language in the legs clothing section based on the language origin criterion, the occurrences and the percentage ratio.

In terms of fabrics as stated in Table 38, predominant are the fabrics with unknown origin followed by French and Spanish origin, both with one occurrence.

2,5

2 2

1,5

1 1 1

0,5

0 Spanish French Unknown origin

Table 38. The occurrences of fabrics in legs clothing section based on the language origin criterion.

The accessories section has only two entries and both terms originate in the English language (before the twelfth century and the thirteenth century), therefore there is no need for a chart to illustrate data.

6.3.2 Time period This chapter deals with the time period in which the terms of the legs section were formed. If the date is not stated directly, OE is classified as before the twelfth century, ME as the fourteenth century, lME as the fifteenth century and Early Modern English as the sixteenth century. If the word had a different meaning in the past, the chosen date designates when the word was used related to the fashion. The first section that is analysed it the legs clothing. As we can see in Table 38, the majority of the terms originate in the twentieth century (17 occurrences, which is 33% of all terms in legs clothing). In comparison to previous parts of clothing analysed based on the time period it is a shift forward since in the headdress and torso clothing sections the nineteenth century was predominant. The next period worthy of mentioning is the nineteenth century with 8 occurrences. Since the fabrics and accessories contain only four and two terms, there is no chart. Nevertheless, in fabrics section the twentieth century is dominant with 2 occurrences, another two periods gained only one term each (unknown period and seventeenth century). In the accessories section, hem originates in the twelfth century and brim in the thirteenth century.

before 12th century 13th century 8; 16% 3; 6% 3; 6% 4; 8% 14th century 3; 6% 15th century 2; 4% 16th century 17; 33% 3; 6% 17th century 18th century 8; 15% 19th century 20th century 21th century Unknown period

Table 38. Legs clothing based on the time period criterion the occurrences and percentage ratio.

6.3.3 Word formation This chapter deals with word formation of terms in the legs section. The methodogy of classifying terminology is crucial, thus there are a few clarification about how the terms are classified. If the term comes from the language that uses a different script, it is classified as an adapted loan since it had to be adjusted the the

70 script the English language uses. If two word formations are possible, both of them are included. In case the term is etymologically uncertain, the decisive is the language it came into English. If the word is a compound, neither the modificator nor the base is further analysed. The only distinction that is made is the solid, hyphenated and open compound. Firstly the legs clothing section is analysed. As we can see from Table 39, the most of the terms are compounds. In Table 40 we can see that the compounds that are related to legs clothing are chiefly open compounds (11 occurrences, for example bermuda shorts, oxford bags, skinny jeans). Compounds are followed by domesticated loans such as garter from ONFr gartier or pantaloons from MFr pantalon. The type of formation that is represented in legs clothing more than in the previous chapter is the shortening. As an example may be introduced pants that short for pantaloons, shorts that is shortening (namely blending) for short pants or tights whose named is derived from the adjective due to its properties as well as it is shortened form of the tight-fitting breeches. The fabrics in the legs section contain only four terms and each of them is different in terms of word formation. Shortening, derivation from the proper name or borrowing is included. Word formation of one item is not certain. The accessories are both (brim, hem) domestically formed.

Domestic

1; 2% Domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 3; 6% 5; 10% 4; 8% Borrowings 9; 18% 5; 10% Compounds

Shortening 21; 42% 2; 4% Derivation

Conversion

Derived from the proper name

Table 39. The legs clothing section based on the word formation criterion, the occurrences and the percentage ratio.

12 11

10 8 8

2 2

0 Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 40. Occurrences of compounds in the legs clothing section.

6.4 Feet This chapter analyses the terms of the corpus that are connected to the feet, as a part of a body.

6.4.1 Language origin This chapter deals with terminology related to legs from the perspective of the language origin. The aim is to find the original languages where the words come from. In the case of compounds, they are not futher analysed but the first usage is seeked. In terms of domestic (English) words, if the period of is not given, the author uses the first mention of usage in the particular form in accordance with the classification given in the chapter History of English. If the word could originate in two languages, both languages are included. In the case that the word is etymologically uncertain, decisive is the language it came from into English. The periods of Early Modern English and Modern English are fused into one period of Modern English The analysis of the corpus of footwear section brought these results. As Table 41 depicts, the most frequently the terms originate in the English language. An example may be oxfords or derbies. English with 33 occurrences covers 58% of all terms and as it is evident from the chart. It accounts for the majority of all terms concerning the footwear.

In Table 42, there can be seen that majority of terms that stem in the English languages come from Modern English, namely 49% of all terms followed by the terms made in the unknown period. English is followed by French with eight occurrences. The rest of the terms contain up to three terms per language.

2; 3% 1; 2% 1; 2% 1; 2% 2; 3% 1; 2% English 1; 2% German 1; 2% 3; 5% Old Norse 1; 2% French

8; 14% 33; 58% Celtic Latin Hybrid English US 1; 2% Japanese 1; 1% Spanish

Table 41. The footwear based on the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

2; 6% 3; 9%

12; 36%

16; 49%

Middle English Modern English Unknown period Old English

Table 42. The English language in the legs clothing section based on the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

In terms of fabrics, the majority (69%) stems in English (see Table 43), followed by Spanish and there is even with one occurrence of a term from Old Provençal.

The suprising fact is that fabrics, that originate in English, come chiefly from the period of Old English (7 occurrences from total 9 occurrences).

1; 8% 1; 8%

2; 15% English Spanish 9; 69% French Old Provençal

Table 43. The fabrics in footwear from the language origin perspective, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

8 7 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 1 0 Old English Middle English Modern English

Table 44. The English language in the fabris of feet section based on the language origin criterion.

Concerning accessories it summarises the main occurrence of languages thoughout the corpus based on the language origin criterion. As it is seen in Table 45, the only languages occurring are English and French. The English is the dominant language with 69% followed by French with 31%.

4; 31% English 9; 69% French

Table 45. Accessories in footwear based on the language origin criterion, occurrences and the percentage ratio.

6 5 5

3 2 2 1 1 1

0 Middle English Old English Unknown period Modern English

Table 45. The English language in the accessories of feet section based on the language origin criterion, the occurrences.

Generally, even there, in the footwear (as well as fabrics and accessories) the English language was the main language of origin, followed by the French language and Spanish in terms of occurrences. Concerning the terminology originated in the English language, it is predominantly from Old English (7 occurrences from 9 in fabrics section and 5 occurrences from 9 in the accessories section).

6.4.2 Time period This chapter deals with the time period in which the terms of the feet section were formed. If the date is not stated directly, OE is classified as before the twelfth century, ME as the fourteenth century, lME as the fifteenth century and Early Modern English as the sixteenth century. If the word had a different meaning in the past, the chosen date designates when the word was used related to the fashion.

The footwear is analysed firstly. Although the unknown period covers 26% with 15 occurrences, the nineteenth century has only 3 occurrences less and thus it is the dominant period in terms of the footwear. Followed by the twentieth century with 11 occurrences. Both of the periods altogether form the majority in the chart and thus there can be said that the majority of terminology concerning the footwear was formed in the modern era. (see Table 46)

2; 4% before 12th century 6; 11% 3; 5% 13th century 15; 26% 14th century 3; 5% 15th century 4; 7% 16th century 11; 19% 17th century 12; 21% 18th century 1; 2% 19th century 20th century 21th century Unknown period

Table 46. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the footwear based on the time period criterion.

In the fabrics section there are only three periods respresented (see Table 47). The majority of the occurrences are in the column of the period before the twelfth century followed by the fourteenth and nineteenth century, both with three occurrences.

8 7 7 6 5 4 3 3 3 2 1 0 before 12th century 14th century 19th century Table 47. The occurrences of the accessories in the feet section from the time period perspective.

The terminology of the accessories section predominantly originates in the fourteenth and before the twelfth century (five and four occurrences respectively). Followed by the seventeenth, nineteenth and twentieth century, each per one term. This corresponds with the previous accessories areas where the majority of the terminology originates in the Middle Ages, i.e. from before twelfth until fifteenth century. (see Table 28 or p. 70)

6 5 5 4 4

3 2 2 1 1 1 1

0 before 12th 14th century 17th century 19th century 20th century Unknown century period

Table 48. The occurrences of the accessories in the feet section from the time period perspective.

6.4.3 Word formation This chapter deals with word formation of terms in the feet section. The methodogy of classifying terminology is crucial, thus there are a few clarification of how the terms are classified. If the term comes from the language that uses a different script, it is classified as an adapted loan since it had to be adjusted the the script the English language uses. If two word formations are possible, both of them are included. In case the term is etymologically uncertain, the decisive is the language it came into English. If the word is a compound, neither the modificator nor the base is further analysed. The only distinction that is made is the solid, hyphenated and open compound. Concerning the analysis of the footwear - the majority, that is 46% of the terms, are compounds. An example maybe Chelsea boots or dress shoe. As the examples suggest, the majority (79%) of all compounds are open compounds (see Table 50). The second frequent category is the domesticated loans (see Table 49). The interesting phenomenon that appears only in the category of footwear is the reduplication realised

77 by flip flops. It is the only occurrence of this phenomenon in the corpus of male fashion. Another larger group of terms is that derived from the proper names, an example may be derbies, oxfords or bluchers. As it is seen, they are names of the cities or people. The chart of fabrics of the footwear is different. The main phenomena are domestically originated words (54%), followed by the domesticated loans (23%), for the rest of the results see Table 51. As we look at table 52, the pattern of the fabrics in the feet section is repeated. The domestically originated words are predominant (55%), followed by the domesticated loans (18%). The only term derived from the proper name is velcro, which is derived from the name of the French company.

Domestic

Domesticated/phonologically 1; 1% 1; 2% 3; 5% adapted loans Borrowings 6; 10% 4; 7% 13; 22% Compounds

Shortening 4; 7% Derivation 27; 46% Conversion

Derivated from the proper name Reduplication

Onomatopoeia

Table 49. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the footwear based on the word formation criterion.

4; 15% 2; 7%

21; 78%

Solid Compound Hyphenated Compound Open Compound

Table 50. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the the compounds based on the word formation criterion.

domestic

domesticated/phonologically 1; 8% adapted loans 1; 8% borrowings 1; 7% compounds

7; 54% shortening 3; 23% derivation

conversion

Derivated from the proper name reduplication

Table 51. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the fabrics section in the footwear based on the word formation criterion.

domestic

1; 9% 1; 9% domesticated/phonologically adapted loans 1; 9% 6; 55% borrowings 2; 18% shortening

Derivated from the proper name

Table 52. Occurrences and the percentage ratio of the accessories section of the footwear based on the word formation criterion.

7 Conclusion The aim of this thesis was to analyse the etymology of male fashion in terms of the language origin, time period and word formation and provide results of these findings. The results of the analysis are following. The clothing of the head section, namely headdresses and hairstyles, is predominantly formed by terms originating in the English language which is in contrast of the claim that terminology of fashion is from the French language. The explanation of this phenomenon may be found in the following factors. The majority of terms were formed in the modern era, that is the 19th or 20th century and if we look at the word formation, most of the terms are compounds. That shows the tendency in English to form the compounds in the modern era and for their simplification to put only the modifier before the base, hence many of them originate in the English language. However, the fabrics and accessories tend to be of the French origin as well as English origin. As it can be seen in the time period criterion, most of the terms of fabrics originate in the earlier centuries in comparison to the terms of the headdresses and hairstyles section. Moreover, in the fabrics section there are not so many compounds as in the previous sections. In the torso section, the torso clothing is also formed mostly by English terms but the French role is more dominant. That is projected also in the time period and word formation and although modern era is still dominant and covers almost half of all the terms, many of the terms are domesticated loans, predominantly from the French language. Neverthless, the turn happens to appear in the fabrics section and the majority of terms is of French origin. That corresponds with the time period as well as the word formation since both of these categories are dated before the 18th century (chiefly before the 12th century and 14th century) and they are domesticated words or borrowings. The legs clothing in the legs section follows the pattern of the headdresses and hairstyles. The majority of terms are of English origin, dated from the 19th or the 20th century and compounds. Although the number of entries in the fabrics and accessories section is minimal, there can be seen that they come from the older periods (in terms of accessories before the 12th century and 14th century) and they are not compounds. In the feet section it can be generally said that most of the terms originate in the English language. It follows the same pattern as in the headdresses or hairstyles 81 section. The majority are compounds and from modern era period (i.e. 19th and 20th century). Despite the fact that fabrics and accessories are predominantly of English origin and formed domestically, they are mostly from the older periods (Old English or Old French). There have been also found two major tendencies in the developement of male fashion. As a keen reader may have observed, the terminology of clothing that covers head and limbs (legs and feet) is rather of English origin, they are more frequently compounds with formation in the modern era. The second tendency is that terminology of fabrics and accessories stems from different languages (predominantly French) and they comes from older periods, such as before the 12th and 14th century even in terms of English origin. It is probably caused by the fact that people initially clothed their torso and with the development of society and industry they paid attention to other parts of the body The French language was generally not proven as the major source of terminology of male fashion in the general perspective. However, in terms of languages aside from the English language, the French plays the dominant role in the contemporary English fashion terminology.

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Spivack, E. (2013, May 16). Where'd You Get Those Creepers? Retrieved March 1, 2018, from https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/whered-you-get- those-creepers-63707339/ The city in Pakistan that loves a British hairstyle. (2017, May 3). Retrieved from http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-40059831 The Gurkha Hat. (n.d.). Retrieved March 1, 2018, from https://thegurkhamuseum.co.uk/the-gurkha-hat/ The meaning of the soul patch: A brief history. (n.d.). Retrieved March 21, 2018, from https://triviahappy.com/articles/the-meaning-of-the-soul-patch-a-brief-history Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation. Wada, Y. I. (2012). Memory on Cloth: Shibori now. New York, NY: Kodansha USA. What you must know about the Zappa Beard! (2018, January 09). Retrieved March 1, 2018, from https://www.beard.org.in/beard-styles/zappa-beard-styles Wikipedia. The Free Encyclopedia (n.d). Retrieved March 21, 2018, from www.wikipedia.org Wiktionary. The Free Dictionary (n.d.). Retrieved March 1, 2018, from https://en.wiktionary.org/ Woolnough, R. (2008). The A to Z Book of Menswear: Everything You Wanted to Know about Mens Clothing but Were Afraid to Ask. Bermuda: Bespoke Solutions. Yates, J. (2004, December 19). Paragauda. Retrieved March 21, 2018, from http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/secondary/SMIGRA*/Para gauda.html

Appendix Corpus The corpus is alphabetically ordered in sections head, torso, legs and feet.

1 Head 1.1 Headdress Albanian hat (aka chapeau albanois) – compound. A hat worn in Albania from 15th to 18th century. For hat see hat. (Gjergji 20) ammana – origin unknown. A large wound turban worn by Muslims. (Hat Glossary) Anthony Eden hat – a hat named after Anthony Eden. A silk-brimmed, black felt Homburg. (wikipedia) apex – borr. from La apex (17.c). (NSOED 93) Asian conical hat – compound. Named after its shape and area where it comes from. For hat see hat. (wikipedia) Astrakhan cap – named after the city where the fur for the cap is made. For the correct name - see karakul. (wikipedia) balaclava helmet – compound (19c). Named after a village near Sevastopol, Crimea. Used seeperately. (NSOED 171) bald – ballede, of uncertain origin (14c). Perhaps with ME -ede adjectival suffix, from Celtic bal "white patch, blaze". (etymonline) Balmoral bonnet – compound (19c). Named after a royal residence in Scotland. A round flat cap worn by some Scottish regiments. For bonnet see bonnet. Also used separately. (NSOED 175) bandana – prob. from Hindu. bẵdhnŭ (18c) – method of tie-dyeing. From Sanskrit badhnati "binds" (because the cloth is tied in different places like modern tie-dye), from PIE root *bhendh- "to bind." A coloured silk or cotton handkerchief or headscarf with white or yellow spots. (NSOED 176; etymonline) Bardococulus – origin unknown, prob. from La. A hooded cape worn by both sexes in Roman and Saxon times. (Hat glossary) barret – from Fr. barrete (19c). from It. barreta. A small flat cap. (NSOED 185) barretina – borr. from Ca. barretina. (wikipedia) baseball cap – compund. Prob. named after the sport it is used for (19c). For cap see cap. (Merriam-Webster) basinet (aka bascinet, basnet) – From ME from OFr bacinet – dim. of bacin (14c). A light steel helmet with a visor. (NSOED 188) Basque beret – compound (19c). Worn by Basque peasantry, thus prob. the name. For beret see beret. (NSOED 189) baudekin – ME from OFr, from medLa baldachinus. (NSOED 194; baudkyn) beanie – orig. from US (20c). Prob. from bean and adding a suffix -ie. (NSOED 197, etymonline) bearskin – compound. from OE berascin; bear (n.) + skin (n.). (etymonline) beaver hat – compound. Prob. named after its material – beaver fur. See hat. (wikipedia) beret – from Fr. béret (19c) from SW Fr. and OProv dialect berret from medLa birretum, diminutive of Late La birrus. A round felt or cloth cap that lies flat on the head. (NSOED 216; etymonline)

i bicorn – from lME from Fr. bigorne, from Prov. bigorna, from La. bicornis that means two- horned. A two-horned shaped hat. (NSOED 224) billycock - from 'William Coke' who ordered the first hard felt hat of the 'bowler' shape. (Hat glossary) biretta (aka birretta) – from It. berretta or Sp. birreta (16c), from OProv. berret that is based on late La. birrus which is perh. of Gaulish origin, or from Greek pyrros "flame-colored, yellow." or orig. a hooded cape or cloak, perh. of Celt. origin. Nowadays a square cap. (NSOED 232; etymonline) blue bonnet – compound (16c). A soft woollen hat worn by peasants or soldiers in Scotland. Due to the colour, perh. the name. See hat. (NSOED 248) boater (aka straw boater, basher, skimmer) – modE., derivation from boat (19c). So called for being suitable to wear while boating. (NSOED 251; etymonline) bobble hat – compound (19c). See hat. (wikipedia) bongrace – from Fr. bonnegrace (16c). (NSOED 258) bonnet – from Scottish bonat, comes from OFr bonet, short for chapel de bonet (14c), from medLa. bonitum, bonetum and from shortening of medLa. abonnis. A head-dress of men and boys, usually soft and brimless. (NSOED 258; etymonline) bowler (aka coke hat, billycock, boxer, bun hat, derby) – Named after William Bowler, English hatterwho designed it in 1850 (19c). Used also as bowler hat. (NSOED 269) broadbrim hat – Compound. Named after its physical appearance. A hat with a broad brim. Used separately. (NSOED 286) Busby wig – (18c). Used separately. (NSOED 305) Prob. the name's original sense came from association with Richard Busby, headmaster of Westminster School in the late seventeenth century.(Busby) byco(c)ket – from lME, historical. From OFr bicoquet – a ornate military head-dress. (NSOED 310) calotte – prob. from Fr. related to caul (14c). (NSOED 321; etymonline) calpa(c)k (aka kalpac, kalpak, or qalpaq) - from Turkish kalpak (16c). (NSOED 322) campaign hat – compound. Some were worn with campaign cords, mainly as a form of decoration. A broad-brimmed felt or straw hat, with a high crown, pinched symmetrically at the four corners. (Merrriam-Webster) Canterbury cap – compound. Since the highest from the Church of England is the Archbishop of Canterbury, prob. thus the name. A square cloth hat with four ridges. See cap. (wikipedia) cap – from late OE cæppe - general Germanic borr. from late La. cappa, perh. from caput, from PIE root *kaput- "head". A covering for the head. (NSOED 331; etymonline) cap of maintenancea (aka chapeau gules) – compound. Given by the Pope to the British monarchs as a symbol of sovereignty, prob. from the old meaning of maintenance - Action of providing a person with the necessities of life. The French name due to its appearance – red hat. (wikipedia) capirote – borr. from Sp., from OSp capirón - head covering. A pointed hat of conical form that is used in Spain. (Roberts 309) cappeline – borr., origin unknown. (Hat glossary) caubeen – from Anglo-Ir. dialect and Canadian dialect (19c). From Ir. “old hat” cáíbín, the dim. of cába. (NSOED 354) cavalier hat – compound. Named after its wearers. A wide-brimmed hat popular in the seventeenth century. (Cunnington & Cunnington & Phillipson 24, 65–69.)

ii chapeau (de-bras) – borr. from OFr chapel (12c), from La cappelum. (NSOED 372) chaperon – lME, borr. from OFr chaperon (15c), the dem. of chape. An obs. form of cap, hood. (NSOED 373; etymonline) chaplet - lME. from OFr chapelet and ONFr capelet (14c), the dim. of chapel, from Proto- Romance dim. of cappa. (NSOED 373; etymonline) cheerer – derivation, cheer + er. The top hat with a rather low crown and curled brim, usually brown, which was favoured by gentlemen farmers in the late 19th, early 20th centuries. (Hat glossary) coastguard - a small boys' hat in straw or felt, with turned-up brim and ribbon streamers, in imitation of those worn by coastguard men. (19c), thus the name. (Hat glossary) cocked hat – compound (17c). Named after its cocked brims. The proper name tricorn. See hat. (Merriam-Webster) coif – ME, from OFr coife (15c) from late La. cofia “helmet” of WG origin (OHG kupphia, MHG kupfe "cap"). A close-fitting cap covering the top, back and the sides of the head. (NSOED 436; etymonline) cointoise – origin unknown, prob. from Fr. A pendant scarf made from a hat or helmet. (Amphlett 39) Coolie hat – see Asian conical hat. copotain (aka Pilgrim hat) – borr., origin unknown (16c). (Copotain) coronet – lME, from OFr coronette (15c), the dim. of corone “crown” from La corona. (NSOED 515; etymonline) cowboy hat – compound. A name comes from its wearers (19c). See hat. (Merriam-Webster) cowl – from OE cugele, cūle that corresponds to MLG, MDu cōghel and OHG cucula, cugula, chugela, (now Ge. Kugel), from ecclesLa. cuculla, from La cucullus “hood of a cloak”. In ME reinforced from OE kugle that is prob. from OFr coule. A hooded sleeveless garment worn by monks. (NSOED 536) crown - ME, from AN cor(o)une and OFr corone, from La corona “wreath”, from Greek korōnē “something bent” from suffixed form of PIE root *sker- "to turn, bend". (NSOED 558; etymonline) an item of .دستار dasta(a)r – borr. A transcription from Punjabi: ਦਸਤਾਰ, dastāar, from Persian headgear associated with Sikhism and is an important part of the Sikh culture. (wikipedia) deerstalker (aka Sherlock Holmes hat) – The designation comes from the fact it is typically worn in rural areas, often for hunting, especially deer stalking. As Sherlock Holmes hat known for it was worn by this famous character. A hat of which the sides of the panels are cut (19c). (Merriam-Webster) Demi-Castor – compound. A hat made of beaver of inferior quality of beaver, thus the name. (demi-castor) derby – named after a town Derby (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 641) diadem – from OFr diademe (13c) and directly from La. diadema, from Greek diadema, from diadein "to bind across," from dia- "across", from PIE root *dē- "to bind". (etymonline) double terai hat – compound. A version of the slouch hat worn by Gurkhas and named after the Terai region in Nepal. Double Terai hat is a version of the Terai slouch hat, but with a double thickness crown and brim, designed to give extra sun protection. See terai hat. See hat. (wikipedia) dunce cap – compound. A word dunce “a person who shows no capacity for learning” from this prob. the designation. A hat that is given to unruly schoolchildren to wear. (NSOED 764) iii fedora – orig. US from Fédora, the title of a drama by Victorien Sardou (19c). The Russian fem. of Fedor, from Greek Theodoros, literally "gift of god," from theos "god" (from PIE root *dhes-. A low soft felt hat with a curled brim and the crown creased lengthways. (NSOED 928; etymonline) fez (aka tarboosh) – borr. from Fr. fez (19c), from Turkish fes, probably ultimately from Fez, the city in Morocco, where this type of cap was principally made. (etymonline; NSOED 940) flat cap – compound. The designation due to its shape. A cap with a flat crown (16c). For cap see cap. (NSOED 968) forage cap - forage caps were small cloth caps worn by British cavalrymen when undertaking work duties such as foraging for food for their horses, thus the name. (Carman 59) galero – from La. galerum. A broad-brimmed hat with tasselated strings worn by clergy in the Catholic Church. (Merriam-Webster) Gandhi cap – compound. It takes its name after the Indian leader Mahatma Gandhi, who first popularised its use during the Indian independence movement. A white coloured sidecap, pointed in front and back and having a wide band. (Merriam-Webster) Gaucho hat – compound. Named by a herdman of south America pampas (19c). (NSOED 1067) gibus – (19c) named by the French inventor of this hat. (NSOED 1087) glengarry bonnet – compound. Prob. named after the Glengarry Fencibles. A traditional Scots cap made of thick-milled woollen material, decorated with a toorie on top, frequently a rosette cockade on the left side, and with ribbons hanging down behind. Also used separately (19c). (Merriam-Webster) Gurkha hat (Hat Terai Gurkha) – compound. Named after Gurkha regiment – Gurkhas the soldiers of Nepalese nationality recruited in the British Army, Nepalese Army, Indian Army or Gurkha Contingent in Singapore. The designation Terai gained after the Terai region in Nepal, a location linked to the events surrounding the Gurkha War (prob 19c). (The Gurkha Hat) hat – from OE hætt that corresponds to ON hottr “hood, cowl”, from Proto-Germanic *hattuz "hood, cowl", from PIE root *kadh- "cover, protect". (NSOED 1195; etymonline) havelock – named after Sir Henry Havelock (19c). (NSOED 1199) headscarf - compound. Named after its usage. A scarf worn instead of a hat. (Headscarf) helmet - lME (15c), perh. the dim. of ME helm or from MFr helmet. A piece of armour for a head. (NSOED 1216; etymonline) homburg – (19c). Named after the town in western Germany. A soft hat with a curved brim and dented crown, first worn and made in Homburg. Also used separately. For hat see hat. (NSOED 1250; etymonline) hoo – from OE hūfe, from MLG and MDu hūve and OHG hūba, from Germanic origin. A covering for a head. (NSOED 1257) hood – from OE hōd, from OFris hōd, MDu hoet and OHG huot, from Proto-Germanic *hodaz (source also of Old Saxon, OFris hōd "hood," MDu hoet, OHG huot "helmet, hat,"), from PIE *kadh- "to cover". (NSOED 1257; etymonline) houve – arch. see hoo. (NSOED 1257) Jewish hat – compound. Prob. named after its wearers. See hat. Jinnah cap – compound. Named after the founder of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah. See cap. (Merriam-Webster)

iv kalimavkion (aka kalymmavchi or kamilavka) – borr. from Greek καλυμμαύχιον, καλυμαύχι or Russian камилавка. an item of clerical clothing worn by Orthodox Christian and Eastern Catholic monks. (wikipedia) kalpak – See calpac. 19c). Named after the breed of sheep from) قراقلی karakul – borr. transcription from Persian which wool it is made. (NSOED 1472) kausia – borr. from ancient Greek καυσία (19c). A low broad-brimmed felt hat worn in ancient Macedonia. (NSOED 1474) keffiyeh (aka kufiya, ghutrah, shemagh, ḥaṭṭah, mashadah, chafiye, dastmal yazdi, cemedanî) – (kūfiyyah”, meaning "from the city of Kufa" (19c). (NSOED 1477“ كوفية from Arabic kepi - from Fr. képi (19c.), from German Swiss käppi, diminutive of German Kappe "a cap," from Late La. cappa "hood, cap". Soldier's peaked cap. (NSOED 1479; etymonline) kerchief – ME from AN courchief and OFr cuevre-chief, from couvrir. A cloth or a scarf used to cover the head.(NSOED 1480; etymonline) kevenhuller - origin unknown. A type of a tricorne hat, very large and heavy. 18th cent. (Hat glossary) kippa (aka kippah)– from Heb. kippah (20c). A skullcap usually of crocheted thread, worn by Orthodox Jew males. (NSOED 1493) knit cap – Compound. Prob. named after the manner it is sewed. See cap. .(kūfiyya, “keffiyeh”), perhaps via Swahili kofia (“hat”) (19c) ُكوفِيَّة kufi – prob. from Arabic (Merriam-Webster) lithām. A mouth-veil which the Bedouin have traditionally used to“ لثام litham – from Arabic cover the lower part of their face. (Merriam-Webster) military beret – compound. Prob. named after the area where it is worn. See beret. mitre – ME, borr. from OFr mitre, from La. mitra "headband, turban," from Greek mitra “belt, turban”, perh. from PIE root *mei- "to bind, attach", perh. of Asian origin. (NSOED 1797) modius – lME, Borr. from La modius. A tall cylindrical headdress. (NSOED 1805) Monmouth cap – compound. Named after Monmouth, a town in Gwent, Wales. See cap. (NSOED 1815; Merriam-Webster) Montenegrin cap – compound. Named after the nationality. A cap traditionally worn in Montenegro by the Montenegrins and Serbs of Montenegro See cap. (wikipedia) morion – borr. from Fr. (18c), from Sp. morrión, from morro, from Proto-Romance. (NSOED 1803) mounteere cap (aka Montero Cap) – compound. Named prob. after Sp. montero “hunter”. A type of cap formerly worn in Spain for hunting. (Merriam-Webster) nemes – origin unknown. Prob. from Egyptian. A striped headcloth worn by pharaohs in ancient Egypt. (Bard 412) nightcap – compound. From night + cap (n.)(14c). A covering for the head, worn in bed. (etymonline) pagadi (aka pagri) – borr. from Hindu पगड़ी. The term for turban in the Indian Subcontinent. (wikipedia) Pahlavi hat – compound (18c). Named after the main form of the middle Persian language - Iranian language spoken in Persia 3c.-10c. See hat. (etymonline; NSOED 2070) Palestinian keffiyeh – compound. Worn as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism, thus the name. A gender-neutral chequered black and white scarf that is usually worn around the neck or head. See keffiyeh. (wikipedia)

v panama hat – compound (19c). Called this way in AmE because it was distributed north from Panama City. A traditional brimmed straw hat of Ecuadorian origin. (etymonline) papakha (aka Astrakhan hat) – Borr. a transcription from Armenian փափախ and Azerbaijani (papak”. (wikipedia“ پاپاق papaq, of Turkic origin (From Ottoman Turkish patrol cap (aka field cap) – Compound. Prob. named after being used when patrolling or being in the field. (wikipedia) peaked cap – Compound. Prob. named after the appearance of the visor. See cap petasus (aka petasos) – borr. from La (16c), from Greek petasos (πέτασος). A hat with a low crown and broad brim, worn in ancient Greece. (NSOED 2176) phakiolion – from Greek. A headdress. (Phakolion) Phrygian cap – compound. Named after the ancient country of Asia Minor. See cap. (Merriam- Webster) Pickelhaube (aka Pickelhelm) – from German, Pickel, "point" or "pickaxe", and Haube, "bonnet". a spiked helmet worn in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries by German military, firefighters, and police. Although typically associated with the Prussian Army, which adopted it in 1842–43. (Knötel & Knötel & Sieg 129) pileus – borr. from La from pileus, from Greek pilos (16c). A felt cap without a brim. (NSOED 2176) pith helmet (aka the safari helmet, sun helmet, topee, sola topee or topi) – compound. Named after the material. In other cases by its usage (19c). See helmet. (Merriam-Webster) pointed hat – compound. Prob. named by its appearance. porkpie (hat) – compound. Named after its resemblance to porkpie. A hat with a flat crown and a brim turned up all round (19c). Also used separately. See hat. (my+wiki+ NSOED 2294) shovel hat – compound (19c). Prob. named after the shape, resembling a shovel. See hat. (NSOED 2842) .from MGH ,שטרײַ מל shtreimel (aka steiml) – borr. (20c). A transcription from Yiddish streimel “stripe“. A fur hat worn by many married Haredi Jewish men. (NSOED 3090) side cap (aka garrison cap, flight cap, pilotka, wedge cap or field service cap) – compound. Named after its appearance or the field where it appears. A foldable military cap with straight sides and a creased or hollow crown sloping to the back where it is parted. See cap. (wikipedia) skufia (also skufiya or skoufos) - borr., a transcription from Greek σκούφια (or σκούφος). an item of clerical clothing worn by Orthodox Christian and Eastern Catholic monastics. (wikipedia) skullcap – compound. From skull + cap (17c). A small close-fitting peakless cap. (NSOED 2887) slouch hat – compound. A name refers to the fact that one side droops down as opposed to the other which is pinned against the side of the crown (19c). See hat. (wikipedia) snapback – compound. Prob. the name due to either the sound “snap” and place “back” of the size-changing mechanism or naming after the central player in American football. A type of baseball cap that has a size-changing mechanism at the back of the hat. Due to the sound “snap” and place “back” of the mechanism the name. sombrero – borr. from Sp. sombrero (16c), from Sp. sombre “shade”, from from Late La. subumbrare. (NSOED 2944; etymonline) songkok (peci, kopiah) - borr. (19c). The designation prob. from Malay. (NSOED 2947) Sou'wester – reduced form of south-wester (19c). A water proof hat with broadrim covering the back. Also sou’wester hat. (NSOED 2959) vi

.”spodik”, from Polish spodek “saucer“ סּפאָ דיק spodik (aka spodek) – Borr. from from Yiddish A tall fur hat worn by some Hasidic Jews, particularly members of sects originating in Congress Poland. (wikipedia) Stetson (hat) – compound. Named after John Batter Stetson, the hat manufacturer (19c).. See hat. (NSOED 3055) stocking cap – see knit cap (19c). strapback – compound. Named after the strap that is used for size changing at the back of the cap. (Co je Strapback) strawhat – compound, straw + hat. Named after the material (20c). See hat. (NSOED 3087) streiml – see shtreimel. tagelmust (also known as cheich, cheche and litham) - Prob. from Arabic. (wikipedia) tainia – borr. from ancient Greek ταινία or or La. taenia. A headband, ribbon, or fillet. (Hurschmann & Höcker) tam o' shanter – compound (19c). Shortened, named by Tam of Shanter, a hero from a poem by Robert Burns. A round woollen bonnetor a cloth cap of Scottish origin. Also tam o' shanter bonnet. (NSOED 3214; etymonline) terai hat – compound (19c). A version of the slouch hat worn by Gurkhas and named after the Terai region in Nepal, Hindu origin. (NSOED 3251) tiara – from La., from Greek tiara, partly through It, early form tiar (17c). A headdress formerly worn in Persia. A threecrowned diadem worn by popes. (NSOED 3303; etymonline) toorie bonnet – Compound. Named after the physical appearance, Scottish origin. a bonnet with a toorie, that comes from Scotties. (Merriam-Webster) top hat (aka beaver hat, high hat, silk hat, cylinder hat, chimney pot hat or stove pipe hat) – compound. From top (n.) + hat (19c). Named after its physical appearance or material. A silk hat with a high cylindrical crown. (NSOED 3339; etymonline) toque (tuque) - from MFr toque (16c), from Sp. toca, possibly from Arabic *taqa, from Old Persian taq "veil, shawl." (etymonline) tricorn (aka cocked hat) from Fr tricorne or La tricornis “three-horned” (19c). A hat with the brim turned up on three sides. (NSOED 3390) trilby - from the name of Trilby O'Ferrall, the heroine of the novel by George du Maurier published in 1894 (19c). A soft hat with a narrow brim and indented crown. (NSOED 3393; etymonline) trucker hat – compound. Named during the 1960s as a promotional give-away from U.S. feed or farming supply companies to farmers, truck drivers, or other rural workers A style of baseball cap with a mesh back and a foam front, typically adorned with a company logo or humorous slogan (20c). (Hsu; Merriam-Webster) turban – from Fr. tolliban, tulban, turban (16c), It. tolipano, Sp., It., Port. turbante, from Turkish tülbend, from Pers. dulband. A man’s headdress, consisting of length of cotton or sill wrapped round the head or cap. (NSOED 3423) Tyrolean hat (aka Bavarian hat or Alpine hat) – compound (19c). Named after being orig. worn in Tyrol in the Alpine area. See hat. (NSOED 3443) ushanka - borr. A transcription from Russian уша́нка, "ear flap hat". (wikipedia) wreath – from OE wriϸa, from wriϸan, from from Proto-Germanic *writh-, from PIE *wreit- "to turn, bend". A circular band of interwoven flowers, leaves etc. worn on head as an ornament. (etymonline; NSOED 3727) (See kippah. (wikidictionary .יאַ רמלקע yarmulke – borrowed from Yiddish zucchetto – from It. zuchetta (19c), the dim of zucca “gourd”, perh. from Late La. cucutia. A skullcap worn by Roman Catholic ecclesiastics. (etymonline; NSOED 3765)

vii

1.2 Hairstyles and Beards 5 o'clock shadow - US, from an advertising copy written by Jules B. Singer of the Federal Advertising Agency for the Gem brand of safety razors, made by the American Safety Razor Company. Ungroomed facial hair. (wikidictionary) afro – from La. Āfr-, Āfer "of Africa" + -o- (20c). Named after a style of hair naturally grown to people of African origin. See hair. Also used separately as afro. (etymonline) anchor beard – compound. Named after resembling an anchor. See beard. (Centeno) backcomb – compound, back + comb (19c). Named after the method the hairstyle is achieved – combing backwards. (NSOED 165) Balbo beard – compound. Named by Italo Balbo (20c). An extended version of the Van Dyke. (Balbo beard) bang – conversion from bang (v.), orig. US. attested from 1832 of horses (bang-tail), (19c), perhaps from notion of abruptness (as in bang off "immediately, without delay," though this expression is attested only from 1886). (etymonline; NSOED 177) barbule – from La. barbula "little beard". A small beard. (wikidictionary) beard – from OE beard "beard," from OFris berd and MDu. bært and OHG bart, from WG *barthaz, relating to Slavonic brada, seemingly from PIE root *bhardhā- "beard". A mass of hair growing on the chin.(etymonline; NSOED 198) bowl cut (aka bowl haircut) - Short haircut where the hair is cut with a straight fringe on the front and the rest of the hair is the same length all the way around or is cut short on the sides and back, like by the rim of a bowl, thus the name. (Bowl Haircut) braid – from OE bregdan (influenced by Old Saxon bregdan) to weave”;, from Proto-Germanic *bregthan from PIE root *bherek- "to gleam, flash". A thing plaited or interwoven from hair. (NSOED 272; etymonline) bun – from OFr buignete, named by the resembling the bun, the bakery product (19c). (etymonline) butch cut – compound. Prob. named by young men who wore it, butch derived by back formation from butcher. A type of haircut in which the hair on the top of the head is cut short in every dimension. See cut. (NSOED 307) buzz cut – compound (20c). From buzz (n.), perhaps from the sound of the barber's electric clipper. See cut. (etymonline) Caesar cut – compound. Named after Gaius Julius Caesar. (wikipedia) Cadiz Beard or Cads Beard - named after the Cádiz Expedition in 1596. It resembles a large and discussed growth upon the chin. (wikipedia) Chinstrap beard – compound. Named after its appearance. A type of facial hair that extends from the hair line of one side of the face to the other, following the jawline. See beard. (wikipedia) chin curtain beard – compound. Named metaphorically after its appearance. a particular style of facial hair that grows along the jaw line and covers the chin completely. See beard. (wikipedia) circle beard – compound. The name comes from its shape. See beard. (Centeno) conk - derived from congolene, a hair straightener gel. A hairstyle popular among African- American men from the 1920s to the 1960s. (Jazma Hair Inc.) cornrows (aka corn-rows) - as "a row of (Indian) corn," by 1971 as a style of hair braids. An ancient traditional African style of hair grooming. (etymonline)

viii crew cut – so called because the style originally was adopted by boat crews at Harvard and Yale.a closely cropped style of haircut for men (20c). See cut. (etymonline; NSOED 548) curl – (17c) by conversion from curl (v.), prob. from OE, from MDu. (etymonline; NSOED 573) curtained hair - origin unknown. Prob. because hair cover forehead as a curtain (from side to side). A hairstyle featuring a long fringe divided in either a middle parting or a side parting, with short (or shaved) sides and back. See hair. (wikipedia) cut - from cut (v.) by conversion, meaning "piece cut off" (16c). A hairstyle. (etymonline) dreadlocks – compound. from dread + locks. The style supposedly based on that of East African warriors. So called from the dread they presumably aroused in beholders, but Rastafarian dread (1974) also has a sense of "fear of the Lord," expressed in part as alienation from contemporary society. (etyomonline) ducktail (aka duck's tail, the ducktail, the duck's arse or duck’s ass) – compound. Named after its resemblance to a duck tail (20c). (NSOED 760) edge-up (Line-Up or Shape-Up) – from and idiomatic expression edge up - To get your hair outline fixed (usually for black people hair). A form of hairstyle that involves cutting along the natural hairline. (Edge up) fauxhawk – compound, faux + hawk. A mohawk, but instead of a "real" mohawk where you shave the sides of your head, you just glue up the middle part of your regular hair so that it is in the style of the Mohawk (21c). (Fauxhawk) flattop – compound, flat + top, orig. US (20c). A type of short haircut where the hair on the top of the head is usually standing upright and cut to form a flat-appearing deck, thus the name. This deck may be level, or it may be upward or downward sloping. (wikidictionary; NSOED 968) fringe – ME, from OFr fringe (19c), from Proto-Romance alteration of La. fimbria. Due to it appearance as ornamental bordering of threads left loose. (NSOED 1030) frizz – by conversion from frizz (v.), from OFr friser (17c). (NSOED 1031) frosted tips – compoud. Named prob. its appearance. A men's hairstyle in which the hair is cut short and formed into short spikes with hair gel or hair spray. (wikipedia) Garibaldi beard – compound. Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi. See beard. (Centeno) goat beard - compound Named after resembling a goatee. It is also very similar to the 'Pick-a- devant and the Barbula style of beards. (Centeno) goatee – derivation, goat + ee. A beard resemebling that of a goat (19c). (NSOED 1110) hair – from OE hǣr, hēr, from Germanic, in ME influenced by OFr haire, from Proto- Germanic *khæran, perh. from PIE *ghers-. (NSOED 1174; etymonline) hairwaves - compound, hair + wave. Brushing techniques are applied to produce an effect reminiscent of "oceanic waves", thus the name. (wikipedia) handlebar moustache - Compound. Named for their resemblance to the handlebars of a bicycle (19c). See moustache. (Merriam-Webster) horseshoe moustache – compound. Named after esembling an upside-down U or a horseshoe. See moustache. (wikipedia) hi-top fade – compound. A style of haircut where hair on the sides is cut off or kept very short while hair on the top of the head is very long, thus the name, due to its appearance. (wikipedia) hulihee – prob. from Hawaiian “Turn and flee”. A type of beard distinguished by its fat chops connected at the moustache. (wikipedia)

ix imperial beard – compound. It gained the popularity in France during the period of the Second Empire, where it got the name imperial. See beard. (Centeno) jewfro – From Jew and afro. An afro when worn by Jews. Its name is inspired by the Afro hairstyle, which it resembles. (Shkolnikova) Jheri curl (aka Jerry curl or Jeri Curl) – compound (20c). Named by the hairdresser Jheri Redding. (Eisenberg) lovelock – compound, love + lock (16c). The designation may have originated as an alternative to the love token worn by knights during the medieval period. The lovelock was a long lock of hair, often plaited (braided) and made to rest over the left shoulder (the heart side) to show devotion to a loved one. (Merriam Webster) mohawk (also referred to as a mohican) – from Iroquoian Mohowawogs, prob. named by Mohawk people, indigenous people of North America (17c). (NSOED 1806) mop-top – named prob. due to resemblance to a mop or just a mop as an untidy hair. A bowl shaped, and shaggy haircut. (wikipedia) moustache – from Fr. moustache (15c), from It. mostaccio, from Medieval Greek moustakion, diminutive of Doric mystax (genitive mystakos) "from PIE root *mendh- "to chew".(etymonline; NSOED 1844) mullet – shortening, perh. from mullet-head "stupid, dull person" (20c). A hairstyle short on top and long in back. (etymonline) mutton chop whisker (aka muttonchops) – compound (19c). A whisker being named after being shaped like this. Also used separately. (NSOED 1869; Merriam-Webster) The Hebrew .פֵּאָ ה payot (aka pe'ot, peyot; or payos, peyos, peyois, payois) – Borr. from Hebrew word for sidelocks or sidecurls, from pe'ah "corner, side, edge". (wikipedia) pencil beard – named so since the beard resembles a pencil by its thickness, like moustache. See beard. (Pencil Beard) pencil moustache – compound. Prob. named after resembling a pencil by its thickness. See moustache. periwig – variation of perwyke, popular corruption of perruck, from MFr perruque (16c). a head covering made from human hair, animal hair, or synthetic fiber. (etyomonline) Pompadour – named after Jeanne-Antionette Poisson, Marquise de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV (19c). (etymonline) ponytail – compound, pony + tail (20c). its name from its resemblance to the tail of a pony. (NSOED 2288) queue - from OFr queue. Earlier "put hair up in a braid" (1777). A hairstyle most often worn by Chinese men. (NSOED 2447) quiff - unknown origin (19c). Perh. connected with quiff "a puff or whiff of tobacco smoke". A curl or lock of hair over the forehead. (etymonline) rattail – compound, rat + tail (18c). Named after being similar to a rat tail. (NSOED 2480) regular cut – compound. Origin unknown. Prob. named so becauseit was a common haircut since the Roman times. A men's and boys' hairstyle that has hair long enough to comb on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra-long back and sides. (Thorpe) samurai bun - compound. A bun worn by Samurai class in Japan, prob. thus the name. shenandoah – prob. named after orig. a place name in Dutchess County, N.Y., from Oneida (Iroquoian) family name Skenondoah. (etyomonline) side whiskers – compound (18c). Named so after its appearance – whisker on the sides of the face. Whiskers or sideburns on a man's cheeks. (Side Whiskers)

x sideburns (aka sideboards or side whiskers) – Compound, side + burn (19c). The term sideburns is a 19th-century corruption of the original burnsides, named after American Civil War general Ambrose Burnside. Patches of facial hair grown on the sides of the face. (Goolrick 29) skin fade – compound. A type of fade hairstyle that is long on top and shaved at the sides, thus the name. (The city in Pakistan that loves a British hairstyle) slick-back hair – compound. Hair slicked to the back of the head, prob. thus the name. soul patch – compound (20c). Prob. from a movie National Lampoon, where a character has “a little Dizzy Gillespie under-the-lip beard he called his soul patch. A small tuft of facial hair directly below a man's lower lip. (The meaning of the soul patch) spade beard – alternative name for Shenandoah (16c). Named after being in a shape of pioneer’s spade. (Cummings and Cunnington and Cunnington,) stiletto beard - compound. Prob. named after its resemblance to a stiletto. The stiletto beard is similar to the full beard only it comes to a point at your chin rather than being more square like the full beard. stubble – ME (14c), from AN stuble, OFr estruble, from from Vulgar La. stupla, reduced form of La. stupula. A short bristly growth of unshaven hair on a cheek or chin. (NSOED 3105; etymonline) Teddy Boy cut – compound. Prob. named after Teddy boys, the British subculture. the hair was cut relatively long in comparison to regular styles of that period. It was typically brushed back and heavy grease used. See cut. tellum - tellum" is "mullet" spelled backwards, thus the name. A hairstyle similar to the mullet. (wikipedia) temple fade (aka Brooklyn Fade, Low Fade, or Blow Out) – origin unknown. A type of a fade haircut. (wikipedia) tonsure – lME (14c), from OFr or La. tonsura, from tonsus, past participle of tondere "to shear, shave, clip, crop," from PIE *tend-, from root *tem- "to cut". Shaving of the head or part of it. (etyomonline; NSOED 3336) toothbrush moustache – named after being similar as brushes on the toothbrush. A short bristly moustache trimmedto a rectangular shape. (NSOED 3338) undercut – compound, under + cut. Prob. named after hair being cut on the sides and on the back, the top left on. Hair on the top of the head is long and parted on either the side or center, while the back and sides are buzzed very short. (Douglas) Van Dyke beard – (aka Vandyke, Vandyck, Van Dyck or Van Dijk) compound. A style of facial hair named after 17th-century Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck. See beard. Also used separately. (Peterkin 172–173) Verdi beard – compound. A beard is named by Giuseppe Verdi. See beard. (Verdi Beard) walrus moustache – compound. A long thick drooping moustache resembling the whiskers of a walrus, thus the name. (NSOED 3617) whiskers – orig. a playful formation, from ME. “wisker "anything that whisks or sweeps" (17c), an agent noun from whisk, a verb. (etymonline) wig – abbr. for periwig. Zappa beard – Compound. Named after Frank Zappa. See beard. (What you must know about the Zappa Beard!)

1.3 Head Accessories and Fabrics aigrette – see egret.

xi aviator (sun)glasses – compound. Orig. developed in 1936 by Bausch & Lomb for pilots to protect their eyes while flying, thus the name aviator. (Rubino) bobble – derivation, from bob + le (19c). (NSOED 252) brim – from ME brymme (13c) "edge of obscure origin, perh. akin to ON. barmr "rim, brim," prob. related to dialectal German bräme "margin, border, fringe," from PIE *bhrem- "point, spike, edge”. (etymonline) browline glasses – The name derives from the fact that the bold upper part of the frames frame the lenses in the same way that eyebrows frame the eyes. See glasses. (wiki) bandhani – borr., the term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root bandh ("to bind, to tie". A type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. (Wada 28) buckram - from OFr boquerant (13c), from Bukhara, city in central Asia. (etyomonline; NSOED 293) budge - from MFr bougette (15c), dim. of OFr bouge, from La. bulga "leather bag”, of Gaulish origin, from PIE *bhelgh- .Lamb's skin with the wool dressed outside. (etymonline) chintz - plural of chint (18c), from Hindi chint, from Sanskrit chitra-s "clear, bright". Cotton cloth printed with flowers or other colourful patterns. (etymonline) chou (aka choux) – from Fr. “cabbage” (19c), from La. caulis. A rosette or ornamental knot. (etymonline) clip-on glasses – compound (19c). Glasses that can be clipped on to eyeglasses for protection from the Sun, thus the name. (wikipedia) cockade - from Fr. cocarde (17c), orig. bonnet à la coquarde. clasp, button, etc. used to secure the cock of a hat. (NSOED 430; etymonline) collar - from OFr coler (16c), from La. collare, from collum, from PIE *kwol-o- "neck". A neck armor, gorget, something worn about the neck. (etymonline, NSOED 438) dimity - from It. dimiti (15c), plural of dimito, from medLa dimitum, from Greek dimitos "of double thread," from di-, from PIE root *dwo- "two" + mitos "warp thread, thread". (etyomonline) earring – from ME erering (17c), from OE ēarhring (“ear-ring”), from ear + hring. (etymonline; NSOED 774) egret - from OFr aigrette (14c), from Old Provençal aigreta, diminutive of aigron "heron," perhaps of Germanic origin (etymonline; NSOED 789) esparterie – origin unknown. A type of cloth made from willow. (Esparterie) favorites – (17c) from MFr The small curls arranged on the fore head at the time of Charles I and Charles II. (NSOED 925) felt – from OE felt "felt," from West Germanic *feltaz "something beaten, compressed wool, from Proto-Germanic *felt- "to beat," from PIE root *pel-. An unwoven fabric matted together by rolling or beating while wet. (etyomonline; NSOED 932) fillet – (14c). From OFr filet, from Proto-Romance dim. of La. filum ”thread”.(etymonline) flip-up sunglasses – Compound. Sunglasses add the benefits of sunglasses to corrective eyeglasses, allowing the wearer to flip up the tinted lenses for indoor use, thus the name. (wikipedia) frieze – from OFr fries (16c), probably ultimately from a German or Dutch word meaning "to curl". A type of coarse woolen cloth with a nap on one side. (etymonline) glasses - from plural of glass, OE glæs (17c), from Proto-Germanic *glasam "glass", from PIE root *ghel- "to shine". (etyomonline; NSOED 1097)

xii goggles - from ME gogelen "to roll (the eyes) about" (18c), influenced by ME gogel-eyed "squint-eyed,"being used incorrectly in a translation from La., of uncertain origin. (etymoline) hatpin – compound. From hat + pin. A decorative and functional pin for holding a hat to the head, usually by the hair. (Merriam-Webster) hairpin – compound. Hair + pin (18c). A long device used to hold a person's hair in place. (Merriam-Webster) headband – compound (16c). A clothing accessory worn in the hair or around the forehead, usually to hold hair away from the face or eyes. (Merriam-Webster) horn-rimmed glasses - Compound. Orig. made out of either horn or tortoise shell, thus the name. (Merriam-Webster) jabot – borr. from Fr. jabot (19c) "frill on a shirt front", a word of unknown origin. (etymonline) karakul – see karakul in head section. lorgnette – borr., derived from the Fr. lorgner (18c), to take a sidelong look at, and Middle French, from lorgne, squinting. (Merriam-Webster) mandarin collar – compound (20c). Derived from being worn by mandarin bureaucrats. A short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. (wikipedia) mask – from MFr masque (16c), from It. maschera, from medLa. masca "mask, specter, nightmare," of uncertain origin, perh. from Arabic maskharah "buffoon, mockery," from sakhira "be mocked, ridiculed." (etymonline; NSOED 1707) monocle - from Fr. monocle (19c), noun use of adjective monocle "one-eyed, blind in one eye", from late La. monoculus "one-eyed," from Greek monos "single, alone", from PIE root *men- "small, isolated" + Latin oculus "eye", from PIE root *okw- "to see". (etymonline) muslin - from Fr. mousseline, from It. mussolina, from Mussolo, Italian name of Mosul, city in northern Mesopotamia (modern Iraq) where muslin was made (17c). (etymonline) neckband – compound, neck + band. from ME nekbande, from nek, nekke neck + bande strip. (Merriam-Webster) partlet (partlett) – from MFr patelette (16c); perh. a dim. form of pert and Scottish patelet. A sleeveless garment worn over the neck and shoulders, or to fill in a low neckline. (Merriam-Webster, Cumming & Cunnington & Cunnington 150) piercing – derivation, from pierce + -ing (14c) . A hole made in the body so that jewellery can be worn through it (wikidictionary) pince-nez – from Fr., literally "pinch-nose" (19c), from pincer "to pinch" + nez "nose," from La. nasus, from PIE root *nas- "nose.". A style of glasses that are supported without earpieces, by pinching the bridge of the nose. (etymonline; NSOED 2214) plug – probably from Dutch plug (prob. 21c). (Merriam-Webster) plume - from OFr plume (14c) directly from La. pluma. (etymonline) ruff - prob. a shortened form of ruffle (16c), from MFr roffle, earlier romfle, from It. ronfa, perh. a corruption of trionfo "triumph". (etymonline; NSOED 2644) sarsenet – from Anglo-French sarzinett (OFr sarrasinet), (14c), probably a diminutive (with - et) of Sarasin, Sarazin "Saracen," meaning Turkish or Arab. A type of fine soft silk fabric. (etymonline) scarf – prob.from ONFr escarpe "sash, sling" (16c), prob. is identical with OFr escherpe "pilgrim's purse suspended from the neck," perh. from Frankish *skirpja or some other Germanic source or from medLa scirpa "little bag woven of rushes," from La. scirpus "rush, bulrush," of unknown origin. (etymonline; NSOED 2706)

xiii

šâl” (17c). A square or rectangular piece of cloth worn as a covering“ شال shawl - from Persian for the head, neck, and shoulders. (NSOED 2816) slide – from OE slidan, from Proto-Germanic *slidan (18c). (NSOED 2897) steinkerk - particular kind of neck-cloth, twisted (17c). Named from the battle in Belgium. (Merriam-Webster) shutter shades – compound. Instead of having lenses, the design is characterized by its "shutter" motif, which is part of the frame, thus the name (wikipedia) sunglasses – compound. sun + glasses (19c). Glasses that are worn to protect eyes from the sunlight. See glasses. (etymonline) tassel - from OFr tassel "tassel, fringe, hem; a fastening, clasp" (14c), from Vulgar La. *tassellus, said to be from La. taxillus "small die or cube," a dim. of talus "knucklebone ankle". (etymonline; NSOED 3225) teashades (aka John Lennon glasses or national health glasses) – Origin unknown. Psychedellic wire-rim sunglasses worn by 1960's drug-culture hep-cats. (wikipedia) tippet - (14c), perh. from OE tæppet "carpet, hanging" (14c) or from AN tip + et. (etymonline; NSOED 3318) toupee - from Fr. toupet (18c), dim. formed from OFr toup "tuft, forelock, topknot", from Frankish *top or another Germanic source. Orig. an artificial curl or lock on the top of the head. (etymonline; NSOED 3350) trim - from trim (v.). by conversion, prob. from OE trymian, trymman "strengthen, fortify” (16c), from trum "strong, stable," from Proto-Germanic *trum-, from PIE *dru-mo-, suffixed form of root *deru- "be firm, solid, steadfast." (etymonline; NSOED 3393) visor - from Anglo-French viser, OFr visiere "face, appearance" (14c), from La. visus "a look, vision," from past participle stem of videre "to see", from PIE root *weid- "to see". A front part of a helmet. (NSOED 3590; etymonline) vizard - altered form of vysar, viser and visor (16c), influenced by confusion by ending –ard (etymonline; NSOED 3594) Wayfarer - from way (n.) + fare (v.) (20c) From ME weyfarere, equivalent to way + farer. Relating to OE weġfarend (“wayfarer, traveler”) (etymonline) wing collar – A small standing collar with the points pressed to stick out, resembling "wings", hence the name. Used in shirts intended to be worn with men's evening dress (Merriam- Webster)

2 Torso 2.1 Torso Clothing A-shirt – a abbr. for an athletic shirt. (wikidictionary) abacost – from Fr., abbr of à bas le costume “down with the (western) suit” (20c). (NSOED 2) alb - late OE albe, from late La. alba, fem. of albus "white," from PIE root *albho- "white" (etymonline; NSOED 47) anorak - from Greenland Eskimo anoraq (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 83) attire – by conversion from attire (v.), from from OFr atirer (14c). (etymonline; NSOED 144) baja jacket – prob. named by Baja California, Mexico. bandi – a transcription from Hindi बꅍधति. (wikipedia) banyan (aka banyan shirt) – from Portuguese banean (17c), from Gujarati vāṇiyo. (etymonline; NSOED 179)

xiv blazer – named by a ship Blazer which crew worn this kind of a jacket (19c) or in this sense British university slang, from blaze, in reference to the red flannel jackets worn by the Lady Margaret. (etymonline; NSOED 240) bliaut (aka bliaud) - from OFr bliaut, blialt, from Frankish *blidat. (Merriam-Webster) blouse - from French blouse (19c), origin unknown. Perhaps akin to Provençal. (NSOED 247, etymonline) blouson - from Fr. from blouse (20c). (NSOED 247) bolero (aka bolero jacket) – borr. from Sp. (18c), probably from bola “ball” (etymonline; NSOED 255) bomber jacket – named the the bomber, the fighter in which it was worn (20c). (wikipedia) camp shirt – prob. named after wearing it assigns a person to a camp, club (20c). cape – borr. from Fr. cape (16c), from Sp. capa, from late La. cappa "hooded cloak". (etymonline, NSOED 332) capot – from Fr., masc. from capote (17c). (NSOED 333) capote – from Fr., dim of cape (18c). (NSOED 333) car coat - made to be worn by automobile drivers and passengers, hence the name (20c). (wikipedia) cardigan - from James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, English general distinguished in the Crimean War (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 338) cassock - from MFr casaque (16c), prob. ultimately from Turkish quzzak "nomad, adventurer” or perh. from Arabic kazagand, from Persian kazhagand. (NSOED 347; etymonline) chasuble - from OFr chesible (14c), from medLa casubla, from late La. *casubula. (NSOED 377; etymonline) chemise – from late OE cemes and from OFr chemise, directly from Late La. camisia "shirt, tunic". (etymonline; NSOED 381) Chesterfield coat - named after George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield (19c). (Centeno (a); Cumming and Cunnington and Cunnington 46) chiton - from Latinized form of Greek khiton (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 390) chlamys – from Greek khlamus (17c). (NSOED 390) churidars (aka churidar pyjamas) - from Hindi cūṛīdār (19c). (Churidars) cloak - from ONFr cloque (13c.), from medLa clocca (NSOED 419; etymonline) coat - from OFr cote (14c) from Frankish *kottaor some other Germanic source, the ultimate origin is unknown. (NSOED 427; etymonline) cope – (13c), from medLa capa, varation of late La. cappa “cap” (NSOED 507) costume - from Fr. costume (18c.), from It. costume, from La. consuetudinem. (etymonline; NSOED 521) cote (aka cotte) - from OFr cote, cotte (15c). (Merriam-Webster) cotehardie – ME, borr. from OFr, compound cote “coat” + hardie ”bold”. (NSOED 522) covert coat – compound. A name gained by the covert cloth. See coat. (Schneider) cummerbund - from Hindi kamarband (17c), from Persian kamar "waist" + band "something that ties”, from Avestan banda- "bond" from PIE root *bhendh- "to bind." (NSOED 569) cutaway – A coat tapered from the front waistline to form tails at the back, hence the name (19c). (Merriam-Webster) dalmatic – from ME dalmatyk (12c), from OE dalmatice, from Late La. dalmatica, from La., feminine of dalmaticus Dalmatian, from Dalmatia. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 588) dashiki – from Yoruba, of West African origin (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 595) dhoti - from Hindi dhōti (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 658)

xv dinner jacket – compound, a jacket for formal evening dinner wear, hence the name (19c). (Merriam-Webster) ditto suit - ditto suit, as it was called, featured a jacket, vest, and trousers made from the same fabric (19c). (Bigelow) dolman – from Fr. doliman (16c), from Turkish dolama. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 724) donkey jacket - named by being worn when working on donkey engines (20c). (George Key and the donkey jacket) doublet - from OFr doublet (14c), from dim. of duble "double, two-fold," from La. duplus (etymonline; NSOED 734) dufflecoat – compound, duffle + coat (17c), from Dutch duffel, from Duffel, town in Brabant where the cloth was originally sold. (etymonline; NSOED 762) dungarees – named by being made from dungaree (cloth), from Hindi dongerijns, the proper name of the city. (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 765) duster – derivation, dust (by coversion from dust (v.)) + er. (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 768) Eisenhower jacket - after Dwight D. Eisenhower, born 1890 American general and 34th U.S. president (20c). (Merriam-Webster) ensemble - from Fr. ensemblée (18c), from Late La. insimul "at the same time”, from in- intensive prefix + simul "at the same time". (etymonline; NSOED 826) field jacket – compound, military jacket issued for wear in the field, hence the name. See jacket. (Merriam-Webster) fleece jacket – compound, named by the material fleece. See jacket. (wikipedia) flight jacket – compound, so called from its similarity to aviators' jackets of World War II (20c). See jacket. (Merriam-Webster) frock - from OFr froc (14c), of unknown origin, perh. from Frankish *hrok or some other Germanic source. (etymonline; NSOED 1031) frockcoat (aka frock coat) – compound, frock + coat (19c). Prob. not related to a frock. (NSOED 1031) fustanella – borr. from It. (19c), from Greek phoustani, Albanian fustan. (NSOED 1047) gabardine - from Sp. gabardine (16c), from MF. galverdine, from a Germanic source. (etymonline; NSOED 1049) garb - from MFr garbe (16c), or directly from It. garbo, from OHG gar(a)wi or some other Germanic source, from Proto-Germanic *garwi-. (etymonline; NSOED 1061) garment – reduced form of garnement (16c), from OFr garnement, from garnir. (etymonline; NSOED 1062) gilet – from Fr. (19c), from Sp. gileco, jaleco, chaleco, from Arabic jalīkah, from Turkish yelek “waistcoat, vest”. (NSOED 1089) gipon – from ME gipoun, from MFr jupon, from OFr gippon or juppon. (NSOED 1091) gown - from OFr goune (14c), related to Late Latin gunna. (etymonline; NSOED 1123) greatcoat (aka watchcoat) – compound, great (adj.) + coat (n.) (17c). Due to its size. (Merriam- Webster) guayabera – borr. from American Sp. guayabera (20c). (Merriam-Webster) Hawaiian shirt (aka aloha shirt) – compound, a shirt of a style originating in Hawaii, hence the name (20c). (Merriam-Webster) Henley (aka Henley shirt) - From the town of Henley in England (19c), where the rowers wore shirts of this type. (Centeno) himation - from Greek (19c), dim. of heimat-, heima garment; akin to Greek hennynai (NSOED 1235; Merriam-Webster) hoodie – Derivation, hood (n.) + derivative suffix –ie (20c). A jacket with a hood. (etymonline; NSOED 1257) xvi houppelande – lME, borr. from OFr hoppelande, of uncertain origin. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 1269) jacket - from OFr jaquet (15c), dim. of jaque, of uncertain origin. Probably it is from Jacque, the male proper name, the generic name of a French peasant. (etymonline; NSOED 1435) jerkin - of uncertain origin, perh. related to Dutch jurk "a frock" (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 1444) jersey – named after New Jersey (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1445) jumper - of uncertain origin, perh. from Fr. jupe "skirt" or a derivation by conversion from jump (v) + derivative suffix -er. (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 1463) jumpsuit – compound, jump + suit (20c). Worn by parachutists for jumping, hence the name. (Merriam-Webster) jupe – from ME juype (13c), from OFr jupe from Arabic jubbah. (NSOED 1464; etymonline) jupon – from ME iopoun, iupone, iopon, from MFr jupon, from OFr jupe. (Merriam-Webster) justacorps (justaucorps) – from Fr, from juste au corps “close to the body” (17c). (NSOED 1466) kanzu – borr. from Kiswahili (20c). A white or cream-coloured robe worn by men in the African Great Lakes region. (NSOED 1471) kimono - from Japanese kimono (17c), literally "a thing put on”. (etymonline; NSOED 1488) kirtle – from OE cyrtel, related to ON kyrtill "tunic”, prob. from La curtus "short", from PIE root *sker- "to cut". A man's tunic. (etymonline; NSOED 1493) kurta – borr. from Hindi कु रिा (20c). A traditional article of clothing worn in Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. (Merriam-Webster) leather jacket – named so by the material. A jacket worn on the top of the apparel. (Merriam- Webster) leotard - named for Jules Léotard. A close-fitting one-piece garment (19c). (NSOED 1567; etymonline) loros – from Greek λῶρο (lōros). A long, narrow and embroidered scarf, which was wrapped around the torso and dropped over the left hand (wikipedia) lounge suit – Compound. Originally used for clothes less formal than frock coats or dinner jackets, now used for ordinary business suits, prob. worn when in lounges (20c). See suit. (Merriam-Webster) lungi – borr. from Burmese, from Hindi लुगԂ ़ी .”luṅgī” (17c). A garment worn around the waist by many people, especially men, in Southern India, Bangladesh, Burma, and Pakistan. (NSOED 1645) mackintosh - named for Charles Macintosh (19c). A waterproof outer coat. (etymonline; NSOED 1656) Madiba shirt - It is named after Mandela's clan name "Madiba". A shirt with a batik pattern of the kind often worn by Nelson Mandela. (wikipedia) mandilion - From MFr mandillon, from mandille + -on (16c). A loose outer garment resembling a cassock or coat, often sleeveless. (NSOED 1684) maniple - from the ME maniple, from OFr maniple, manipule, from La. manipulus. an ornamental band or scarf worn upon the left arm as a part of the vestments of a priest in the Roman Catholic Church. (NSOED 1687) manteel – from Fr. mantilla, from Sp. mantilla (15c). (NSOED 1689) mantelet – lME, from OFr, dim. of mantel. A kind of short loose sleeveless cape, cloak. (NSOED 1689)

xvii mantle – from OE mentel," from La. mantellum "cloak"perhaps from a Celtic source. A loose, sleeveless cloak. (etymonline; NSOED 1689) mantelleta – borr. from It., prob. from medLa. mantellum (19c). (NSOED 1689) Mao jacket (aka Mao suit) – compound. Named after Mao Zedong, Chinese Communist leader. A type of jacket popularized in China in the 20th century, with two breast pockets and two waist pockets. See jacket. (Wikidictionary) maphorion – borr., a transcription from Greek μαφόριον, A garment covering the head and shoulders. (Maphorion) morning coat – compound (17c). A man's formal coat worn as the principal item in morning dress, thus the name. (wikidictionary) mess jacket – compound (19c). Named after being used for dinners in in the Officer's Mess. This came from the OFr mes, “a dish”. See jacket. (Mess) Nehru jacket (suit) – compound. Named for Jawaharlal Nehru (20c). A hip-length tailored unisex coat with a mandarin collar. Also used separately. (etymonline, NSOED 1900) Norfolk jacket – compound. Named after a county Norfolk (19c). A men’s loose belted jacket. See jacket. (NSOED 1939) omophorion - From Byzantine Greek ὠμοφόριον (ōmophórion), (19c), from Ancient Greek ὦμος (ômos, “shoulder”) + φέρω (phérō, “carry”). the distinguishing vestment of a bishop. (NSOED 1995) orarion – graecized orarium (18c). A deacon’s stole. (NSOED 2013) overcoat – compound, over + coat (19c). A large coat worn over ordinary clothing. (etymonline) outercoat – Compound. outer + coat (20c). A top coat or overcoat. (Merriam-Webster) paletot - from Fr. paletot. A loose outer jacket, cloak, coat, overcoat, greatcoat. (Merriam- Webster) pallium – ME, From La. pallium “a cloak”. A woollen liturgical vestment resembling a collar and worn over the chasuble. (etymonline; NSOED 2077) paludament – from La. paludamentum (17c). A military cloak. (NSOED 2080) parka - from Aleut parka (18c), from Russian parka. A pelt or jacket made from pelt," (etymonline; NSOED 2103) pea jacket (aka peacoat) – compound or calque, loan-translation (18c). Prob. derived from the Dutch word pijjekker or pijjakker — which referred to a jacket made from a heavy blue twill fabric, from Dutch pij + coat, from North Frisian pijekkat, from Dutch pijjekker, from pij "coarse woolen cloth" + jekker "jacket. A coat of heavy, navy-coloured wool, originally worn by sailors of European navies. (Merriam-Webster; Schneider) pelisse – from OFr pelisse (18c), from medLa. Pellicia, from La. pellis “skin”. A long fur-lined mantle or cloak. (NSOED 2142) perizoma – from La. perizoma. A loincloth worn by men and women in ancient Greece. (wikid) petticoat – compound, from petty (adj.) + coat (n.) (15c). From pety coote, literally "a small coat”. Orig. a padded coat worn by men under armour. (etymonline; NSOED 2178) polo shirt – compound. Orig, it was a kind worn by polo players, hence the name (19c). A casual top with buttons and a protruding collar. (etymonline) poncho - from American Sp. poncho (18c), from Araucanian (Chile) pontho "woolen fabric," perh.influenced by Sp. poncho (adj.). A south American cloak. (etymonline; NSOED 2286) pourpoint – ME, borr. From OFr A doublet of the 16th and 17th centuries worn by civilians. (NSOED 2314) pullover – compound, pull (v.) + over (adv.) (19c). So called in reference to the method of putting it on. (etymonline)

xviii pyjamas - from Hindi pajama, probably from Persian paejamah, literally "leg clothing” (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2429) raglan – an overcoat named for British general Lord Raglan (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2466) raincoat – compound, rain (n.) + coat (n.) (19c). A waterproof coat to be worn in the rain, hence the name. (etymonline) redingote - from Fr. redingote, from English riding coat (18c). A man’s double-breasted greatcoat. (NSOED 2514; etymonline) regalia – borr. from La. regalia (16c). A finery, magnificent dress, or lavish or flashy costume. (etymonline) robe - from OFr robe (13c), from a Germanic source, from West Germanic *raubo "booty". A long, loose outer garment. (NSOED 2613; etymonline) sack suit – compound. Sack, sac, sacque, etc. all refer to the way the back of the jacket is cut; i.e. "sack cut". This simply means the back is formed of two pieces only, cut relatively straight down, instead of being made up of four curved pieces with hidden pockets in the tails as on more formal and traditional coats such as tail coats, morning coats, and frocks. See suit. (Merriam-Webster, What is a sack suit) safari jacket (aka bush jacket) – compound (20c). A usually khaki-coloured jacket, usually with a belt, that has large pockets and was originally designed to be worn on safari, hence the name. See jacket. (wikidictionary) saie - From Vulgar La. *sagia, from La. sagum, from Gaulish *sagos, or from Ancient Greek σάγος (ságos). A short garment worn by ancient Persians, Romans, and Gauls in combat. (wikidictionary) shirt – from OE scyrte, from Proto-Germanic *skurtjon, from PIE root *sker- (1) "to cut". A garment for the upper body. (NSOED 2830; etymonline) sleeveless shirt – compound. Prob. named so since it has no sleeves. See shirt. slop – from ME (14c), slop sloppe, slope, from OE *slop. (etymonline) spencer - named for George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer (18c). A woolen outer tail-coat. (wikipedia) smoking jacket – compound (19c). An overgarment designed to be worn while smoking tobacco, usually in the form of pipes and cigars, thus the name. See jacket. (smoking jacket) sport jacket (aka sportcoat) – compound, US origin. A tailored jacket that is not part of a suit; especially one of a sturdy fabric originally designed for outdoor sports, hence the name. See jacket. (wikidictionary) smock frock – Compound, smock + frock (19c). A loose outer garment. (NSOED 2913) suit – from AN suite (14c), OFr suite, from Proto-Romance, from La. sequi. (NSOED 3135; etymonline) surcoat – borr. from OFr surcote (14c), from sur- "on, upon, over, above"+ cote. An outer coat. (etymonline; NSOED 3156) sweater – derivation, sweat (v) + derivative suffix -er, (19c). Clothing worn to produce sweating and reduce weight A woolen vest or jersey, originally worn in rowing. (NSOED 3171; etymonline) sweater vest – compound (20c). A sleeveless sweater, resembling a vest. See vest. (Merriam- Webster) swimwear (swimdress) – compound, swim + wear. An attire for swimming (20c). (NSOED 3175) t-shirt (aka tee shirt) – Named so because of its T shape (20c). A light short-sleeved garment. (NSOED 3413; etymonline)

xix tabard – from OFr tabart (13c), of unknown origin. A coarse, sleeveless upper garment. (NSOED 3196; etymonline) tailcoat – compound, tail (n.) + coat (19c). A man’s tail skirted coat. (NSOED 3204) texan tuxedo – compound, texan + tuxedo. So-called due to its stereotypical association with the Southwestern US. An outfit comprising a matching denim jacket and jeans . (MailOnline) toga – borr. from La. toga (17c), from togere, from PIE *tog-a- "covering," (etymonline; NSOED 3328) topcoat – compound, top (adv.) + coat (19c). An overcoat. (NSOED 3339) tracksuit – compound, track (n.) + suit (20c), prob. used for sports (on tracks). A sport wear. trenchcoat – compound, trench (n.) + coat (20c). Prob. trench for water to be waterproof. (Schneider) tunic - from MFr tunique, or directly from La. tunica (15c). An undergarment worn by either sex. (etymonline; NSOED 3421) turtleneck (aka poloneck) – compound, turtle + neck (19c). Prob. from resembling a neck of a turtle. A high collar garment. (NSOED 3430) tuxedo – from Tuxedo Park in NY, a rural resort development for wealthy New Yorkers (19c). A dinner jacket. (etymonline; NSOED 3431) ulster - after the Ulster Overcoat Company of Belfast, Northern Ireland (19c), from Anglo- French. A long, loose overcoat made of wool or other rough material. (etymonline) ulsterette – Compound, ulster (n.) + derivative suffix -ette. A lighter version of ulster coat. (Merriam-Webster) uniform - from MFr uniforme (14c.), from La. uniformis "having only one form or shape”. (NSOED 3488; etymonline) unitard - from uni- "one" + ending from leotard (20c). A tight-fitting one piece garment. (etymonline; NSOED 3492) vest - from Fr. veste (17c), from It. vesta, veste from La. vestis, from vestire "to clothe", from PIE *wes- "to clothe”. (etymonline; NSOED 3570) vestment – borr. from OFr vestment (12c), from La. vestimentum. (etymonline; NSOED 3570) waistcoat – compound, from waist (n.) + coat (16c). A coat around a waist. (NSOED 3611; etymonline) windbreaker – A derivative compound, wind + break +er (20c). A type of jacket to keep off the wind, hence the name. (etymonline; NSOED 3691) zoot suit – Compound. Zoot may be a Caló slang pronunciation of suit, thus the name and making the term a tautology and reduplication. An outfit featuring a suit with broad shoulders, a long coat, and baggy trouser (20c) (Merriam-Webster)

2.2 Torso Fabrics acrylic – from acrolein, from La. acer (20c) “sharp” + olere “to smell”. (wikidictionary) antelope - from OFr antelop (15c), from medLa. antalopus, from Late Greek antholops. (etymonline) bobbin lace – compound. Borr. from Fr. bobine, recorded in English since 16c. See lace. (wikidictionary) basket weave – compound (19c). a textile weave resembling the checkered pattern of a plaited basket, hence the name. (Merriam-Webster) batik - from Malay (Austronesian) mbatik (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 192) batiste – from Fr. batiche (17c). (NSOED 192)

xx bengaline – borr. from French bengaline, from its resemblance to a kind of fabric imported from Bengal (19c) (Merriam-Webster) bouclé – from Fr. “buckled” (19c). (NSOED 266) bourette - from Fr. bourette (19c). (etymonline) broadcloth – compound, from broad+ cloth (15c). So called from its width. (etymonline; NSOED 286) brocade - from Sp. brocado (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 286) buckram – see buckram. buckskin – Compound, buck + skin (18c). A skin of a buck. (etymonline) burlap - from ME borel, from OFr burel (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 302) cambric - from Dutch Kamerijk or Flemish Kameryk, Germanic forms of French Cambrai, name of the city in northern France (14c). (NSOED 322; etymonline) cashmere (aka cashemere wool) - from the old spellings of Kashmir, the Himalayan kingdom, from Sanskrit (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 346) challis - of unknown origin, perhaps from the surname (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 369) cheese-cloth – Compound, from cheese + cloth (17c). Orig. cloth in which curds were pressed, hence the name. (etymonline) chiffon – borr. from Fr. chiffon (18c), dim. of chiffe. (etymonline; NSOED 385) cloth – from OE claþ, from Proto-Germanic *kalithaz. (etymonline; NSOED 422) corduroy - probably from cord + obsolete duroy (18c), name of a coarse fabric made in England, which is of unknown origin. Folk etymology is from *corde du roi "the king's cord". (etymonline; NSOED 511) cotton - from OFr coton (13c), ultimately from Arabic ḳuṭn, qutn, a word perhaps of Egyptian origin. (etymonline; NSOED 523) covert cloth – unknown origin, gained the name since it afforded protection to the hunter. (Centeno (a)) crepe - from Fr. crêpe (18c), from OFr crespe, from La. crispa, fem. of crispus "curled, wrinkled, having curly hair," from PIE root *sker-. (etymonline; NSOED 547) crepe de chine – borr. from Fr. Chinese crepe (19c). (NSOED 547) cuir bouilli – lME, borr. from Fr. cuir “leather” + bouilli “boiled”. (NSOED 566) damask – lME, from ME damaske, cloth from La. Damascus (14c). (etymonline; NSOED 589) denim - from Fr. serge de Nîmes, a town in southern France (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 632) duffle - from Dutch duffel, from Duffel (17c), town in Brabant where the cloth was originally sold. (etymonline; NSOED 762) dungaree - from Hindi dungri from the name of a village (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 765) dupion - from Fr. doupion (19c), It. doppione, from doppio (“double”), from La. duplus. (NSOED 766) elastane – derivation, from English, elastic + -ane (20c). (elastane) ermine – borr. from OFr ermine (12c). (etymonline; NSOED 846) faille – borr. from OFr (16c). (NSOED 907) feather – from OE feðer, from Proto-Germanic, *fethro, from PIE *pet-ra- (etymonline; NSOED 926) felt – see felt in head section. fiber – (14c) from medLa fibre, from Latin fibra, perh. related to La. filum. (etymonline; NSOED 940) flannel – from flaunneol (14c), probably related to ME flanen, traced to Welsh gwlanen from gwlan, from Celtic *wlana, from PIE *wele- (1) "wool". (etymonline, NSOED 946)

xxi flax – from OE fleax, from Proto-Germanic *flakhsan, prob. from Proto-Germanic base *fleh-, from PIE root *plek- "to plait." (etymonline; NSOED 970) fleece – from OE fleos, flies, from West Germanic *flusaz, which is of uncertain origin. (etymonline; NSOED 971) fur - probably from OFr forrer, fourrer (14c), from Frankish *fodr or another Germanic source, from Proto-Germanic *fodram, from PIE root *pa- "to feed, protect". (etymonline; NSOED 1044) fustian - from OFr fustaigne, fustagne (13c), from medLa fustaneum, perh. from La. fustis. (etymonline; NSOED 1047) gabardine – see gabardine in torso section. gauze - from Fr. gaze, which is of uncertain origin (16c) or Gaza in Palestine. (etymonline; NSOED 1068) georgette - named after Georgette de la Plante, French dressmaker (20c). (NSOED 1080) gingham – from Dutch gingang (17c). (NSOED 1090) Glenurquhart plaid – compound, name is taken from the valley of Glenurquhart in Inverness- shire, Scotland (20c). (Merriam-Webster) gold – from OE gold, from Proto-Germanic *ghultham, from PIE root *ghel- "to shine". (etymonline; NSOED 1114) grosgrain (aka grogram) - from MFr gros grain (16c). (etymonline, NSOED 1149) hemp – from OE hænep, from Proto-Germanic *hanapiz, prob. a very early Germanic borrowing of the same Scythian word that became Greek kannabis. (NSOED 1218; etymonline) homespun – compound, home + spun (16c). Spun at home (etymonline; NSOED 1252) houndstooth – compound, hound + -'s + tooth, from its appearance (20c). (etymonline) jacquard – named by Joseph Marie Jacquard (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1436) jersey – named after being from Jersey, one of the Channel Islands (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1445) jute – from Bengali jhuto, ultimately from Sanskrit juta-s (18c). (etymonline, NSOED 1467) khadar – borr. from Punjabi khaddar, Hindu khādar, khādī (19c). (NSOED 1483) lace - from OE laz, from Vulgar La. *lacium, from Lat laqueum, prob. from It. base *laq- "to ensnare". (NSOED 1515; etymonline) linen - from conversion of the adjective līnen from OE, from Proto-Germanic *linam, prob. an early borrowing from La linum. (etymonline; NSOED 1596) lycra – origin unknown. A proprietary name, origin unknown (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 1651) madras - the etymology is uncertain, prob. by a proper name after a seaport in India, prob. from Portuguese (19c). (NSOED 1659 ; etymonline) marquisette – borr. from Fr. marquise, dim. (20c). (NSOED 1701) matelassé – borr. from Fr. matelassé (19c). (NSOED 1713) melton - from Melton Mowbray, central England, where this material was made (19c). (NSOED 1739) merino – borr. from Sp. merino (18c), possibly from Arabic merini, a Berber family or tribe of sheep farmers in northwest Africa. (etymonline; NSOED 1747) mesh – prob. from late OE max (14c), earlier mæscre, from Proto-Germanic *mask-, from PIE root *mezg- "to knit, plait, twist". (etymonline; NSOED 1750) miniver - from OFr menu vair "minor fur” (14c). (etymonline; NSOED 1782) mohair - from MFr mocayart (16c.), It. mocaiarro, both from Arabic mukhayyar "cloth of goat hair". (etymonline; NSOED 1806)

xxii moleskin – Compound, mole + skin (17c). A skin from a mole, hence the name. (NSOED 1808) muslin – see muslin. nylon - from random generic syllable nyl- + -on, common ending in fiber names, said to be ultimately from cotton (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 1959) oilskin – Compound, oil + skin. Cloth waterproofed with oil, hence the name (18c). (NSOED 1988) otter – semantic change, from an animal. From OE otr, otor, from Proto-Germanic *otraz, from PIE *udros, literally "water-creature". (NSOED 2033; etymonline) oxford cloth – compound. Named after the town in England (19c). (NSOED 2060) padding – derivation, pad + ing, verbalization of a noun pad (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2067) paisley – named after Paisley, town in southwest Scotland (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2072) pelt - of uncertain origin, perhaps a contraction of pelet, from OFr pelete "fine skin, membrane" dim. of pel "skin" (16c), from La. pellis "skin, hide", from PIE root *pel- "skin, hide". (NSOED 2143; etymonline) pile - from Anglo-French pyle or MDu pijl (14c), both from La. pilus "a hair". (etymonline; NSOED 2209) pill – from late OE, from La. pilare. (NSOED 221) plaid - from Scottish, from Gaelic plaide, of unknown origin (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 2232) plissé – borr. from Fr., from plisser (19c). (NSOED 2252) plush – from MFr pluche (16c), contraction of peluche, from OFr peluchier "to pull, to tug, to pluck" , from Vulgar La. *piluccare "remove hair". (etymonline; NSOED 2260) pointelle - from Fr. (19c). (NSOED 268) polyester – compound, poly + ester (20c). (NSOED 2279) polyurethane – compound, poly + urethane (20c). (NSOED 2284) pongee – from Chinese pen-chi (18c).(NSOED 2287) poplin - from Fr. papeline (18c), probably from Provençal papalino, fem. of papalin, from medLa papalis (NSOED 2291) pvc - initialism (acronym) from polyvinyl chloride (20c). (etymonline; Britannica) rayon - chosen by National Retail Dry Goods Association of America, probably from Fr. rayon "beam of light, ray" (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 2486) sable – from fur or pelt of the European sable, hence the name, from ME. (15c). (etymonline; NSOED 2066) sateen – derivation, glossy cloth resembling satin, perh. influenced by velveteen, where the ending is a variant of –ine (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2690) satin – borr. from OFr satin (14c), perh. from Arabic (atlas) zaytuni, literally "(satin) from Zaitun," a Chinese city, perhaps modern Quanzhou in Fukien province. (etymonline; NSOED 2691) satinette – from satin + ette (18c) or from Fr. satinet, dim. of satin. Due to resemblance to satin (etymonline; NSOED 2691) seal – named by the animal, from OE (18c). (NSOED 2477) seersucker - from Hindi sirsakar (18c), East Indian corruption of Persian shir o shakkar "striped cloth" (etymonline; NSOED 2758) serge -from OFr serge (14c), from Vulgar La. *sarica, from Latin serica (vestis) "silken (garment)," from serica, from Greek serike, fem. of serikos "silken". (etymonline; NSOED 2784) shantung - named by Shantung province, in China (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2811) sharkskin – Compound, shark + skin (19c). A skin from a shark. (Merriam-Webster)

xxiii sheepskin (aka sheep leather) – Compound, sheep + skin (13c). Skin from sheep. (Merriam- Webster) silk - from OE seoloc, sioloc, from La. sericum, from Greek Serikos (NSOED 2862) silkoline – blending, silk + oline (crinoline) (19c). Due to resemblance to silk. (NSOED 2863) silver – from OE seolfor, Mercian sylfur, from Proto-Germanic *silubra, from a common Germanic/Balto-Slavic word (etymonline; NSOED 2864) snakeskin – compound, snake+skin (19c). A skin from a snake. (Merriam-Webster) spandex - proprietary name, an arbitrary formation from expand + commercial suffix –ex or anagram from expands (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 2963) taffeta - also taffata, from OFr taffetas (14c), from It. taffeta or medLa. taffata, ultimately from Persian taftah "silk or linen cloth". (etymonline; NSOED 3202) tartan – perh. from MFr tiretaine (15c), from OFr tiret, from medLa. tyrius "cloth from Tyre". (etymonline; NSOED 3224) terry (aka terry cloth) - origin unknown or perh. modification of Fr. tiré, past participle of tirer to draw (18c). (etmyonline; Merriam-Webster; NSOED 3258) tricot - from Fr. tricot (19c), from tricoter, of uncertain origin, probably a variant of OFr estriquer "to smooth,"from a Germanic source. (etymonline; NSOED 3390) tricotine – derivation, from tricot + ine, from Fr., proprietary name. (19c). (NSOED 3390; Merriam-Webster) tulle - from Tulle, town in central France (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 3418) tweed – orig. a misreading of tweel or river Tweed (19c). (etymonline, NSOED 3432) twill – from Scottish and northern English variant of ME. twile (14c), from OE twili "woven with double thread”. (etymonline; NSOED 3434) vair – borr. from OFr vair "two-toned squirrel fur; fur garments" (12c.), from La. varium. (etymonline; NSOED 3539) velour - from Fr. velours "velvet" (18c), from OFr velor, from Old Provençal velos, from La. villosus (etymonline; NSOED 3556) velvet - prob. from Old Provençal veluet (14c), from Vulgar La. *villutittus, dim. of Vulgar La. *villutus "velvet”, from La. villus (etymonline ; NSOED 3557) velveteen – Compound, from velvet + commercial suffix –een (18c). An imitation of velvet. (etymonline; NSOED 3557) vinyon – blending, vinyl + rayon (20c). (NSOED 3583) viscose – derivation, from La. viscouse + ose (19c). (NSOED 3588) weft – from OE weft, wefta "weft", related to wefan "to weave", from Proto-Germanic *weftaz. (etymonline; NSOED 3650) wool – from OE wull, from Proto-Germanic *wulno, from PIE *wele- (1) "wool". (etymonline; NSOED 3715) worsted – from ME. (13c), from Worstead (OE Wurðestede), town in Norfolk where the cloth originally was made. (etymonline; NSOED 3724)

2.3 Torso Accessories aglet (aka aiguillette, aguillette, aiglet) - from MFr aiguillette (15c), dim. of aiguille "needle," from Late Latin acucula. (etymonline; NSOED 41) applique – borr from Fr. appliqué (18c). (etymonline; NSOED 100) ascot (aka ascot tie) – named after the town in Berkshire, England (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 125)

xxiv badge – from Anglo-French bage (14c.) or Anglo-Latin bagis or by back-formation from badger. (etymonline; NSOED 168) baldric - from OFr balder (14c), bably from La. balteus. (NSOED 172) bead - from OE gebed, from Proto-Germanic *bidam, from PIE *gwhedh- (etymonline; NSOED 196) belt – from OE belt, from Proto-Germanic *baltjaz. (etymonline) bombast – corrupted from earlier bombace "raw cotton" (16c), from OFr bombace "cotton, cotton wadding," from late La. bombacem. (etymonline) boutonniere – borr. from Fr. boutonnière (19c), from bouton "button". (etymonline; NSOED 268) bracelet - from OFr bracelet (14c.), dim. of bracel, from La. bracchiale (etymonline; NSOED 271) braid - by conversion from braid (v.), from from OE bregdan (16c), from Proto-Germanic *bregthan, from PIE root *bherek- "to gleam, flash". (etymonline; NSOED 272) broach – from OFr broche (14c), from Vulgar La. *brocca (ODEE 51, etymonline) brooch – from OFr broche (13c). (etymonline; NSOED 288) buckle - from OFr bocle (14c), from La. bucculain, from late La., dim. of bucca. (etymonline; NSOED 293) button - from OFr boton (14c), from bouter, boter, ultimately from a Germanic source, from Proto-Germanic *buttan, from PIE root *bhau- "to strike." (etymonline; NSOED 308) chain - from OFr chaeine (14c), from La. catena, perh. from a PIE root *kat- "to twist, twine". (etymonline; NSOED 367) cane – borr. from OFr cane (14c), from La. canna, from Greek kanna, perh. from Babylonian- Assyrian qanu "tube, reed" which may come from Sumerian-Akkadian gin "reed". (etymonline) cincture – borr. from La. cincture (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 402) cravat – from Fr. cravate (17c), from Cravate "Croatian," from German Krabate, from Serbo- Croatian Hrvat "a Croat" (NSOED 542; etymonline) cuff – from cuffe (14c), perh. somehow from medLa. cuffia, otherwise origin unknown. (etymonline; NSOED 566) cufflink – compound, cuff + link (19c). (Merriam-Webster) embroidery - from AN embrouderie (14c). (etymonline; NSOED 805) fastener – derivation, from fasten + er (18c). (etymonline; NSOED 921) fibula - borr. from La. fibula (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 941) flap - flappe "a blow, slap, buffet, by conversion from flap (v.) (15c). (etymonline) foliage - from MFr feuillage (15c), from OFr feuille "leaf, foliage”. (etymonline; NSOED 991) frill – perh. from Flemish frul (16c). (NSOED 1030) gauntlet - from OFr gantelet, dim. of gant (15c.). (etymonline; NSOED 1068) girdle – from OE gyrdel, related to OE gyrdan "to gird," from PIE root *gher-. (etymonline; NSOED 1092) gloves - from OE glōf (12c); akin to Old Norse glōfi “glove”. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 1104) gusset – (16c), from OFr gosset, apparently from gousse "shell of a nut," a word of unknown origin. (etymonline) handkerchief – compound, from hand + kerchief, from ME. (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 1183) jabot - from Fr. jabot, of unknown origin (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1433)

xxv jewel – (13c) from Anglo-French juel, from OFr jouel "ornament; present; gem, jewel", from medLa. jocale, from La. jocus "pastime, sport," in Vulgar La. "that which causes joy". (etymonline) lapel – derivation, from lap + -el, dim. suffix (18c). (etymonline; NSOED 1531) mitten - from OFr mitaine (14c), from OFr mite "mitte”, from medLat. mitta, which are perh. from Middle High German mittemo, OHG mittamo "middle, midmost". (etymonline) necktie - from neck + tie (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1896) padding - named after the cloth, see padding. paragauda - from Greek παραγῶδης, from Persian the border of a tunic. (wikidictionary; Yates) pin - late OE pinn, from Proto-Germanic *penn, from La. pinna "a feather, plume” (etymonline; NSOED 2213) pleat - lME, from OFr pleit.(16c). (etymonline; NSOED 2248) pocket square – compound, a handkerchief that was prob. folded as a square into a pocket. pocket watch – compound, a watch that is kept in a pocket, prob. hence the name. pteruges - from Greek, meaning “feathers”. The decorative skirt of leather or fabric. (wikipedia) raglan sleeves - it is named after Lord Raglan, the 1st Baron Raglan, same as the coat (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2466) ring – from OE hring, from Proto-Germanic *hringaz "something curved, circle"from nasalized form of PIE root *sker-. (etymonline; NSOED 2603) rosette – borr. from Fr. rosette (18c), diminutive of rose "rose". (etymonline; NSOED 2629) ruffle – by conversion from ruffle (v.), from ON hrufla or Low German ruffelen, both of unknown origin (18c). (etymonline; NSOED 2644) sash - from Arabic shash "muslin cloth" (16c). (etymonline; NSOED 2690) seam – from OE seam, from Proto-Germanic *saumaz, from PIE root *syu- "to bind, sew". (etymonline; NSOED 2745) shoulder pad – compound, pad that is used to improve the shoulder line. (Merriam-Webster) slashing – (17c) derivation, slash + ing. (etymonline) sleeve – from OE sliefe (West Saxon), slefe (Mercian), prob. literally "that into which the arm slips”, from Proto-Germanic *slaubjo, related to OE slefan, sliefan "to slip on "from PIE root *sleubh- "to slide, slip." (etymonline; NSOED 2896) snap fastener – named by the sound it makes as snapback. (Merriam-Webster) steinkirk - from Fr., from the battle of Steenkerke, Belgium, 1692 (17c). (Merriam-Webster) stole – from OE stole, from La. stola, from Greek stole "a long robe, from PIE root *stel- "to put, stand”. (etymonline; NSOED 3069) strap - from Scottish and/or nautical variant of strope (17c), probably from OFr estrop, from La. stroppus, ultimately from Greek strophos. (etymonline; NSOED 3085) stud - from OE studu (13c), from Proto-Germanic *stud- "staff, stick”. (etymonline; NSOED 3106) suspenders - from American English, by conversion from suspend (v.) and derivative suffix +er (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 3162) tail – from OE tægl, tægel, from Proto-Germanic *tagla- (19c). tassel – see tassel. tattoo – from a Polynesian noun. such as Tahitian and Samoan tatau, Marquesan tatu "puncture, mark made on skin" (18c). (etymonline, NSOED 3227) tie – from OE teag, from Proto-Germanic *taugo, from PIE root *deuk-. (etymonline; NSOED 3306)

xxvi tiepin – compound, tie + pin. A pin used for holding ties (18c). (Merriam-Webster) watch – from OE wæcce, from Proto-Germanic *wakjan, from PIE root *weg- "to be strong, be lively”. (etymonline; NSOED 3632) zipper - by conversion from zip (v.) and derivative suffix +er. The trademark taken out on the name, od unknown origin (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 3762)

3 Legs 3.1 Legs Clothing bell-bottomed jeans – compound. Named after the resemblance to a bell. See jeans. (NSOED 210) bermuda shorts – compound. From the type of garb worn by U.S. tourists there (20c). See shorts. (etymonline) boardshorts - swimming shorts of a kind originally designed for water sports such as surfboarding, hence the name (20c). (Merriam-Webster) braccae – from La., bracae, plural of braca, from Gaulish brāca, of Germanic origin. (Merriam-Webster) breeches - from OE brec, from Proto-Germanic *brokiz, perh. from PIE root *bhreg- "to break". (etymonline; NSOED 279) briefs – derivation from brief (adj.), from ME. (20c). (etymonline, NSOED 282) capri pants – compound. From Capri, Italian island; so called perhaps because they were first popular in Capri (20c). See pants. (etymonline) cargo pants – compound. Named after its purpose (20c). See pants. (Loschek 107) chausses – from Fr. (15c), plural of chausse, from medLa. calcea, from La. calceus. (Merriam- Webster; NSOED 378) chinos – trousers named by the cloth – chinos (20c). (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 388) codpiece – compound, from ME codd in ME. "testicles"+ piece (15c). (NSOED 432; etymonline) cords – abbr. for the trousers made of corduroy. (Merriam-Webster) culottes - from Fr. culotte "breeches" (20c), dim. of cul from La. culus. (etymonline; Merriam- Webster; NSOED 567) drawers – derivation, draw + er (14c). Named by the movement that done when putting on the trousers. (Merriam-Webster) flares – meaning "a gradual widening or spreading" is from 1910; hence flares, shortened from "flared trousers" (20c). (etymonline) gaiter - from Fr. guêtre (18c), of uncertain origin; prob. ultimately from Frankish *wrist or a similar Germanic source, from Proto-Germanic *wirstiz. (etymonline; NSOED 1052) galligaskins – perh. of MFr garguesques, greguesques (16c), borrowed from Spanish gregüescos, from griego "Greek". (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 1054) garter - from ONFr gartier (14c), from garet/jaret "bend of the knee", perh. from Gaulish. (etymonline; NSOED 1063) hakama - from Japanese (19c). (NSOED 1174) hip-huggers – derived compound, named after being close-fitting trousers that rest on the hips (20c). (Merriam-Webster) hose - from late OE hosa "covering for the leg" (13c.), from Proto-Germanic *huson-from PIE root *(s)keu- "to cover, conceal".(etymonline; NSOED 1265) hotpants – US slang, prob. from arousing sexual passion (20c). (NSOED 1267)

xxvii jeans – from Geayne, short for Gene fustian (15c), from MF. jean fustian "fustian (a type of twilled cotton cloth) of Genoa," the Italian city, from OFr Jannes "Genoa," from La. Genua. (etymonline; NSOED 1442) jodhpurs - from Jodhpur, former state in northwestern India (19c). (etymonline, NSOED 1451) khaki pants – compound, named by the cloth, from Persian. See pants. (etymonline) kilt - from ME verb kilten (18c), from a Scandinavian source. (etymonline, NSOED 1488) Knickerbockers (knickers) - so called for their resemblance to the trousers of old-time Dutchmen in Cruikshank's illustrations for Washington Irving's "History of New York" - Diedrich Knickerbocker (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 1498-1499) leg warmer – compound, 1974, from leg + derived noun from warm (v.). Named by its purpose (20c). (etymonline; NSOED 1561) legging – derivation, from leg + ing (18c). (etymonline; NSOED 1562) loincloth – compound, loin + cloth (19c). A garment that covers the loin. (etymonline, NSOED 1621) oxford bags - trousers with very large baggy legs, favoured by members of the University of Oxford (20c), hence the name. (Longden 4–9) pantaloons – from MFr pantalon (16c), from Old It. pantaleone, pantalone, originally from San Pantaleone, Christian martyr. (etymonline; NSOED 2086) pants - short for pantaloons, colloquial singular pant is attested from 1893 (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2087) petticoat breeches - elaborate breeches with legs resembling skirts worn by Englishmen in the late 17th century, prob. hence the name. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 2178) phat pants – compound, phat in hip-hop slang, "great, excellent" or a variant of fat, which is prob. the reason since the pants are increasingly wide down the legs (prob. 20c). (etymonline) plus-fours – compound, so called because originally they were designed with four inches of excess material so as to hang in a fold below the fastening beneath the knee (20c). (NSOED 2260) puttee - from Hindi paṭṭī (19c), from Sanskrit paṭṭikā. (etymonline; NSOED 2427) shorts – short for "short pants” (20c). (etymonline) skinny jeans – compound, jeans that are tapered to be on the skin, hence the name. See jeans. (me) skirt - from ON. skyrta (14c). lower part of a dress. (etymonline, NSOED 2885) slim-fit pants – compound. Pants that are very narrow in their fit. See pants (me) slops – perhaps from OE oferslop. (etymonline) stocking – derivation, from stock + ing, from stock, from OE stocu (15c). (etymonline; NSOED 3068) sweatpants – compound, from sweat + pants. Worn especially for exercise – sweating (20c). (Merriam-Webster) swimshorts – prob. blending, swimming+ shorts. Shorts for swimming. tights – derived from the adjective due to its properties, shortened from tight-fitting breeches (19c). (etymonline) trousers - earlier trouzes, from trouse (17c), from (Scottish) Gaelic or Middle Irish triubhas "close-fitting shorts," of uncertain origin. (etymonline; NSOED 3405) undergarment – compound, from under + garment (16c). (etymonline) underpants – compound, from under + pants (20c). (etymonline) underwear – compound, from under + wear (19c). (etymonline)

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3.2 Legs Fabrics corduroy – see corduroy in torso fabrics. chino (chino cloth) – origin unknown, perh. from Am. Sp. “toasted” (20c). (NSOED 388; Merriam Webster) denim – see denim in torso fabrics. neoprene – blending, neo + prene (chloroprene, isoprene), (20c). (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 1904)

3.3 Legs Accessories brim – see brim in head section. hem – from OE hem, from Proto-Germanic *hamjam, from PIE *kem- "to compress" (etymonline; NSOED 1217)

4 Feet 4.1 Footwear balmoral boot – compound. Named after Balmoral Castle, Scotland (19c). See boot.(Merriam- Webster) bluchers (blucher shoe) - from Field Marshal Gebhard Leberecht Blücher (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 248) boat shoe – compound. A low-cut shoe with a slip-resistant sole, hence for a boat (20c). See shoe. (Merriam-Webster) boot - from ON bóti or OFr bote (14c), from Provençal, Sp., and medLa., all of unknown origin, perh. from a Germanic source. (etymonline; NSOED 261) boothose (boot stocking) – compound, boot + hose. (Merrriam-Webster) brogue - (18c), perh. from the meaning "rough, stout shoe", the type worn by rural Irish and Scottish highlanders, from Gaelic or Irish, from Old Irish broce "shoe", or bróg, from ON. brók. (etymonline; NSOED 287) brothel creeper – compound, brother creeper, named after having thick crepe soles or dance tune popular in 1953 and called "The Creep” (20c). (Spivack) buskin - of unknown origin (16c), perh. immediately from OFr broissequin. (etymonline; NSOED 306) button boot – compound. Named by the way of fastening (19c). See boot. (15 Incredible Shoe Styles History Has Forgotten) caliga – borr. from La. (Merriam-Webster) Chelsea boots – compound (20c). Named after the London borough. See boot. (Merriam- Webster; NSOED 381) chukka boot - compound. Prob. comes from the game of polo, where a chukka is a period of play. (NSOED 399; Woolnough 72) clogs – from ME clogge (14c), origin unknown. (etymonline; NSOED 420) combat boot – compound (20c). Orig. designed for soldiers, hence the name. See boot. (NSOED 445; Merriam-Webster) converse (all stars) shoe – compound (20c). Prob. named after the brand. See shoe. cowboy boot – compound (19c). Named after cowboys. See boot. (Merriam-Webster; NSOED 536) crocs - from the name of the American shoe company, Crocs Inc. (wikidictionary)

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Cromwell shoe – compound. The name was a nod to military leader Oliver Cromwell, who was incorrectly believed to have outfitted his soldiers with buckled shoes. See shoes. (15 Incredible Shoe Styles History Has Forgotten) derbies (derby shoes) – compound (20c). Prob. named after 12th Earl of Derby. See shoe. (Schneider; NSOED 641) dress shoe – compound. Formalwear, prob. thus named as dress. See shoe. dress socks – compound. Worn in accompaniment to dress shoes and they are also used in formal wear when worn in accompaniment to a tuxedo, hence the name. (Macias) Kalso earth shoe – named having a sole that was thinner at the heel than at the forefoot and after its designer Anna Kalsø. (Our story) espadrille - from Fr. espadrille (19c), from Provençal espardillo, from La. spartum, from Greek sparton, from PIE *spr-to-. (etymonline; NSOED 850) flip-flop – reduplication (20c), imitative of the sound of walking in them. (etymonline; NSOED 976) galosh – perh. from OFr galoche (14c.), from Late La. gallicula, dim. of gallica. (etymonline; NSOED 1056) geta - borr. from Japanese 下駄 (19c). (NSOED 1085) huarache - from Sp. huarache, guarache (19c), from Purepecha kwarachi, kuaráči (Gold; NSOED 1273) jackboot – compound, jack + boot (17c). (etymonline; NSOED 1435) jodhpur boot – compound. Named from the fabric of throusers that were usually worn with it (20c). See boot. (NSOED 1451) jockey boots – compound (17c). Named after the rider of the horse. (etymonline) loafer – proprietary name for moccasins (19c). (NSOED 1611) moccasin - from an Algonquian language of Virginia, probably Powhatan makasin (17c), from Central Atlantic Coast Algonquian *mockasin, similar to Southern New England Algonquian *makkusin, Munsee Delaware mahkusin, Ojibwa makizin (etymonline, NSOED 1801) monk shoe – compound, named after being resemble to monk shoes from Middle Ages. See shoe. (me) monkstrap – compound, monk + strap. So called since it resemble old monk shoes and has a buckle and a strap instead of shoelaces. (Merriam-Webster) opera shoe (court slippers) – compound. Footwear used dancing or music, hence the name opera shoe or opera slipper. See shoe. (me) over-the-knee boots – compound, named after its physical appearance. See boot. (me) oxfords (oxford shoes) – compound, named after Oxford (19c). See shoe. (Merriam-Webster) pampootie – origin unknown, prob. from papoosh, that is from French, from Persian pāpūsh (19c). (NSOED 2080; Merriam-Webster) pantofle – from Fr. pantoufle, from It. pantafola, of unknown origin (15c). (NSOED 2087) patten – OFr patin (14c), prob. from pate, from Gallo-Roman *pauta, ultimately perh. imitative of the sound made by a paw. (etymonline; NSOED 2125) poulaine (cracow shoe) – from Fr. “Poland” in solier a la Polaine “shoes in Polish style” (16c). (NSOED 2312) sabaton – lME, ultimately from Provençal sabato (14c), equivalent of French savate. (etymonline; NSOED 2659) saddle shoe – compound. Named by saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot (20c). See shoe. (Saddle shoe)

xxx sandals - from OFr sandale (14c), from Latin sandalium, from Greek sandalion, dim. of sandalon "sandal". (etymonline; NSOED 2682) shoes – from OE sćōh , from Proto-Germanic *skokhaz, somehow connected with PIE root *skeu- "cover". (etymonline; NSOED 2833; Merriam Webster) skate shoe – compound. Prob. named by the sport it was used for. See shoe. slipper (aka slip-on) – derivation, from slip (n.) + er, slip (n.) by conversion from a verb, from ME. (15c). The notion being of a shoe that is "slipped" onto the foot. (etymonline; NSOED 2901) sneakers – derivation, sneak + er (19c). So called because the shoe was noiseless. (etymonline; NSOED 2320) sock - from OE. socc, from La. soccus, prob. a variant of Greek sykchos, perhaps from Phrygian or another Asiatic language. (etymonline; NSOED 2932) spectator shoe (co-respondent shoe) – compound. These shoes were often worn to spectator sports like cricket. See shoe. (15 Incredible Shoe Styles History Has Forgotten) stocking – see stocking in Legs section. tabi – borr. from Japanese (17c). (NSOED 3196) trainers – derivation, from train (v.) + er (20c), named after the purpose - training. (NSOED 3363) turnshoe - a piece of leather, sew it on one side, and turn it inside out, hence the name (16c). (Meriam-Webster) valenki – borr. from Russian (20c). (NSOED 3540) wellington - named for Arthur, 1st Duke of Wellington (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 3655) winkle-pickers – compound, from winkle + picker, slang expression. (NSOED 3696)

4.2 Footwear Fabrics bast – from OE bæst, of uncertain origin. (etymonline; NSOED 190) brass – from OE bræs, perh. akin to Fr. brasser. (etymonline; NSOED 275) cork - from Sp. alcorque "cork sole" (14c), prob. from earlier Sp. corcho, from La. quercus "oak". (etymonline) cowhide – compound, from cow + hide (14c). Hide from a cow. (NSOED 536; Merriam- Webster) esparto – from Sp. (19c), from La. spatrum, from Greek sparton. (NSOED 851) leather – from OE leðer, from Proto-Germanic *lethran, from PIE *letro- "leather". (etymonline; NSOED 1557) rubber – derivation, agent noun from rub (v.) + er (19c). The meaning "elastic substance from tropical plants" (short for India rubber). (etymonline; NSOED 2640) silk – see silk in torso section. steel – from OE stēli, stǣli, style, from noun use of Proto-Germanic adjective *stakhlijan, from PIE *stek-lo. (etymonline; NSOED 3045) straw – from OE stēeaw, from Proto-Germanic *strawam from PIE root *stere- "to spread". (etymonline; NSOED 3086) suede - from gants de Suède literally "gloves of Sweden", from Fr. Suède "Sweden" (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 3132) velvet – see velvet in torso section. wood – from OE wōd or wudu, earlier widu, from Proto-Germanic *widu-, from PIE *widhu- "tree, wood". (etymonline; NSOED 3713)

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4.3 Footwear Accessories buckle – from ME bukel, from AN bucle and OFr bocle (14c), from La. buccula, dim. of bucca "cheek". (etymonline; NSOED 293) cleat – from clete, from OE *cleat, from West Germanic *klaut. (etymonline; NSOED 415) fastener – see fastener. heel – from OE hēla, from Proto-Germanic *hanhilon, from PIE *kenk-. (etymonline; NSOED 1211) ribbon - from ribane, from OFr riban (14c), variant of ruban, of unknown origin. (etymonline; NSOED 2592) shoe rose – compound. A cloth made into the shape of a rose worn on a shoe, hence name. (me) shoelace – compound, shoe + lace (17c). A strip of leather used for lacing shoes, hence the name. (NSOED 2833) sock – see sock in feet section. sole –from OFr soule (14c), from Vulgar La. *sola, from La. solea (etymonline; NSOED 2938) spats – abbr. of spatterdash, from spatter + dash (19c). (etymonline; NSOED 2968) spur – from OE spura, spora, from Proto-Germanic *spuron, from PIE *spere- "ankle". (etymonline; NSOED 3008) tassel – see tassel in head section. toe sock – compound. Socks knitted so that each toe is individually encased the same way as fingers within a glove, prob. hence the name. See sock. tongue – from OE tunge (14c), from Proto-Germanic *tungon. (NSOED 3335) velcro – (20c), proprietary name (Britain), from French vel(ours) cro(ché) "hooked velvet." (etymonline)

xxxii