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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Cora Ginsburg Catalogue 2015
CORA GINSBURG LLC TITI HALLE OWNER A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework 2015 by appointment 19 East 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] NEEDLEWORK SWEET BAG OR SACHET English, third quarter of the 17th century For residents of seventeenth-century England, life was pungent. In order to combat the unpleasant odors emanating from open sewers, insufficiently bathed neighbors, and, from time to time, the bodies of plague victims, a variety of perfumed goods such as fans, handkerchiefs, gloves, and “sweet bags” were available for purchase. The tradition of offering embroidered sweet bags containing gifts of small scented objects, herbs, or money began in the mid-sixteenth century. Typically, they are about five inches square with a drawstring closure at the top and two to three covered drops at the bottom. Economical housewives could even create their own perfumed mixtures to put inside. A 1621 recipe “to make sweete bags with little cost” reads: Take the buttons of Roses dryed and watered with Rosewater three or foure times put them Muske powder of cloves Sinamon and a little mace mingle the roses and them together and putt them in little bags of Linnen with Powder. The present object has recently been identified as a rare surviving example of a large-format sweet bag, sometimes referred to as a “sachet.” Lined with blue silk taffeta, the verso of the central canvas section contains two flat slit pockets, opening on the long side, into which sprigs of herbs or sachets filled with perfumed powders could be slipped to scent a wardrobe or chest. -
The Basques of Lapurdi, Zuberoa, and Lower Navarre Their History and Their Traditions
Center for Basque Studies Basque Classics Series, No. 6 The Basques of Lapurdi, Zuberoa, and Lower Navarre Their History and Their Traditions by Philippe Veyrin Translated by Andrew Brown Center for Basque Studies University of Nevada, Reno Reno, Nevada This book was published with generous financial support obtained by the Association of Friends of the Center for Basque Studies from the Provincial Government of Bizkaia. Basque Classics Series, No. 6 Series Editors: William A. Douglass, Gregorio Monreal, and Pello Salaburu Center for Basque Studies University of Nevada, Reno Reno, Nevada 89557 http://basque.unr.edu Copyright © 2011 by the Center for Basque Studies All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America Cover and series design © 2011 by Jose Luis Agote Cover illustration: Xiberoko maskaradak (Maskaradak of Zuberoa), drawing by Paul-Adolph Kaufman, 1906 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Veyrin, Philippe, 1900-1962. [Basques de Labourd, de Soule et de Basse Navarre. English] The Basques of Lapurdi, Zuberoa, and Lower Navarre : their history and their traditions / by Philippe Veyrin ; with an introduction by Sandra Ott ; translated by Andrew Brown. p. cm. Translation of: Les Basques, de Labourd, de Soule et de Basse Navarre Includes bibliographical references and index. Summary: “Classic book on the Basques of Iparralde (French Basque Country) originally published in 1942, treating Basque history and culture in the region”--Provided by publisher. ISBN 978-1-877802-99-7 (hardcover) 1. Pays Basque (France)--Description and travel. 2. Pays Basque (France)-- History. I. Title. DC611.B313V513 2011 944’.716--dc22 2011001810 Contents List of Illustrations..................................................... vii Note on Basque Orthography......................................... -
Fashion Arts. Curriculum RP-54. INSTITUTION Ontario Dept
DOCUMENT RESUME ED 048 223 SP 007 137 TITLE Fashion Arts. Curriculum RP-54. INSTITUTION Ontario Dept. of Education, Toronto. PUB LATE 67 NOTE 34p. EDRS PRICE EDRS Price MF-$0.65 HC-$3.29 DESCRIPTORS Clothing Instruction, *Curriculum Guides, Distributive Education, *Grade 11, *Grade 12, *Hcme Economics, Interior Design, *Marketing, Merchandising, Textiles Instruction AESTRACT GRADES OR AGES: Grades 11 and 12. SUBJECT MATTER: Fashicn arts and marketing. ORGANIZATION AND PHkSTCAL APPEARANCE: The guide is divided into two main sections, one for fashion arts and one for marketing, each of which is further subdivided into sections fcr grade 11 and grade 12. Each of these subdivisions contains from three to six subject units. The guide is cffset printed and staple-todnd with a paper cover. Oi:IJECTIVE3 AND ACTIVITIES' Each unit contains a short list of objectives, a suggested time allotment, and a list of topics to he covered. There is only occasional mention of activities which can he used in studying these topics. INSTRUCTIONAL MATERIALS: Each unit contains lists of books which relate either to the unit as a whole or to subtopics within the unit. In addition, appendixes contain a detailed list of equipment for the fashion arts course and a two-page billiography. STUDENT A. ,'SSMENT:No provision. (RT) U $ DEPARTMENT OF hEALTH EOUCATION & WELFARE OFFICE OF THIS DOCUMENTEOUCATION HAS BEEN REPRO DUCED EXACT' VAS RECEIVED THE PERSON OR FROM INAnNO IT POINTSORGANIZATION ()RIG IONS STATED OF VIEW OR DO NUT OPIN REPRESENT OFFICIAL NECESSARILY CATION -
1914 Girl's Afternoon Dress Pattern Notes
1914 Girl's Afternoon Dress Pattern Notes: I created this pattern as a companion for my women’s 1914 Afternoon Dress pattern. At right is an illustration from the 1914 Home Pattern Company catalogue. This is, essentially, what this pattern looks like if you make it up with an overskirt and cap sleeves. To get this exact look, you’d embroider the overskirt (or use eyelet), add a ruffle around the neckline and put cuffs on the straight sleeves. But the possibilities are as limitless as your imagination! Styles for little girls in 1914 had changed very little from the early Edwardian era—they just “relaxed” a bit. Sleeves and skirt styles varied somewhat over the years, but the basic silhouette remained the same. In the appendix of the print pattern, I give you several examples from clothing and pattern catalogues from 1902-1912 to show you how easy it is to take this basic pattern and modify it slightly for different years. Skirt length during the early 1900s was generally right at or just below the knee. If you make a deep hem on this pattern, that is where the skirt will hit. However, I prefer longer skirts and so made the pattern pieces long enough that the skirt will hit at mid-calf if you make a narrow hem. Of course, I always recommend that you measure the individual child for hem length. Not every child will fit exactly into one “standard” set of pattern measurements, as you’ll read below! Before you begin, please read all of the instructions. -
Historic Costuming Presented by Jill Harrison
Historic Southern Indiana Interpretation Workshop, March 2-4, 1998 Historic Costuming Presented By Jill Harrison IMPRESSIONS Each of us makes an impression before ever saying a word. We size up visitors all the time, anticipating behavior from their age, clothing, and demeanor. What do they think of interpreters, disguised as we are in the threads of another time? While stressing the importance of historically accurate costuming (outfits) and accoutrements for first- person interpreters, there are many reasons compromises are made - perhaps a tight budget or lack of skilled construction personnel. Items such as shoes and eyeglasses are usually a sticking point when assembling a truly accurate outfit. It has been suggested that when visitors spot inaccurate details, interpreter credibility is downgraded and visitors launch into a frame of mind to find other inaccuracies. This may be true of visitors who are historical reenactors, buffs, or other interpreters. Most visitors, though, lack the heightened awareness to recognize the difference between authentic period detailing and the less-than-perfect substitutions. But everyone will notice a wristwatch, sunglasses, or tennis shoes. We have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past; otherwise we are not preserving history but instead creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Realistically, the appearance of the interpreter, our information base, our techniques, and our environment all affect the first-person experience. Historically accurate costuming perfection is laudable and reinforces academic credence. The minute details can be a springboard to important educational concepts; but the outfit is not the linchpin on which successful interpretation hangs. -
HISTORY and DEVELOPMENT of FASHION Phyllis G
HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION Phyllis G. Tortora DOI: 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10020a Abstract Although the nouns dress and fashion are often used interchangeably, scholars usually define them much more precisely. Based on the definition developed by researchers Joanne Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach Higgins, dress should encompass anything individuals do to modify, add to, enclose, or supplement the body. In some respects dress refers to material things or ways of treating material things, whereas fashion is a social phenomenon. This study, until the late twentieth century, has been undertaken in countries identified as “the West.” As early as the sixteenth century, publishers printed books depicting dress in different parts of the world. Books on historic European and folk dress appeared in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. By the twentieth century the disciplines of psychology, sociology, anthropology, and some branches of art history began examining dress from their perspectives. The earliest writings about fashion consumption propose the “ trickle-down” theory, taken to explain why fashions change and how markets are created. Fashions, in this view, begin with an elite class adopting styles that are emulated by the less affluent. Western styles from the early Middle Ages seem to support this. Exceptions include Marie Antoinette’s romanticized shepherdess costumes. But any review of popular late-twentieth-century styles also find examples of the “bubbling up” process, such as inner-city African American youth styles. Today, despite the globalization of fashion, Western and non-Western fashion designers incorporate elements of the dress of other cultures into their work. An essential first step in undertaking to trace the history and development of fashion is the clarification and differentiation of terms. -
Miss Lisa Brown's Guide to Dressing for a Regency Ball – Gentlemen's
MMiissss LLiissaa BBrroowwnn’’ss GGuuiiddee ttoo DDrreessssiinngg ffoorr aa RReeggeennccyy BBaallll –– GGeennttlleemmeenn’’ss EEddiittiioonn (and remove string!) Shave Jane Austen & the Regency face every Wednesday and The term “Regency” refers to years between 1811 Sunday as per regulations. and 1820 when George III of the United Kingdom was deemed unfit to rule and his son, later George Other types of facial hair IV, was installed as his proxy with the title of were not popular and were “Prince Regent”. However, “Regency Era” is often not allowed in the military. applied to the years between 1795 and 1830. This No beards, mustaches, period is often called the “Extended Regency” goatees, soul patches or because the time shared the same distinctive culture, Van Dykes. fashion, architecture, politics and the continuing Napoleonic War. If you have short hair, brush it forward into a Caesar cut style The author most closely associated with the with no discernable part. If your Regency is Jane Austen (1775-1817). Her witty and hair is long, put it into a pony tail engaging novels are a window into the manners, at the neck with a bow. lifestyle and society of the English gentry. She is the ideal connexion to English Country Dancing as Curly hair for both men and each of her six books: Pride and Prejudice , Sense women was favored over straight and Sensibility , Emma , Persuasion , Mansfield Par k hair. Individual curls were made and Northanger Abbey, feature balls and dances. with pomade (hair gel) and curling papers. Hair If you are unable to assemble much of a Regency wardrobe, you can still look the part by growing your sideburns The Minimum and getting a Caesar cut If you wish to dress the part of a country gentleman hairstyle. -
Comparing the Basque Diaspora
COMPARING THE BASQUE DIASPORA: Ethnonationalism, transnationalism and identity maintenance in Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Peru, the United States of America, and Uruguay by Gloria Pilar Totoricagiiena Thesis submitted in partial requirement for Degree of Doctor of Philosophy The London School of Economics and Political Science University of London 2000 1 UMI Number: U145019 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Dissertation Publishing UMI U145019 Published by ProQuest LLC 2014. Copyright in the Dissertation held by the Author. Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest LLC 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Theses, F 7877 7S/^S| Acknowledgments I would like to gratefully acknowledge the supervision of Professor Brendan O’Leary, whose expertise in ethnonationalism attracted me to the LSE and whose careful comments guided me through the writing of this thesis; advising by Dr. Erik Ringmar at the LSE, and my indebtedness to mentor, Professor Gregory A. Raymond, specialist in international relations and conflict resolution at Boise State University, and his nearly twenty years of inspiration and faith in my academic abilities. Fellowships from the American Association of University Women, Euskal Fundazioa, and Eusko Jaurlaritza contributed to the financial requirements of this international travel. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Magical Clothing Fo R Discerning Adventurers
Magical Clothing fo r Discerning Adventurers Anja Svare Sample file Introduction Table of Contents I really like making magic items. General Clothing 3 Now, there’s nothing wrong with how 5e presents the majority of magic items. But the tend to get a little stale. Potions are all essentially the same, scrolls don’t really have much interest Outerwear 6 other than what spell they contain, you’ve got a few interesting things that aren’t weapons or armor, but that’s about it. Most of those will either break a game because of their power, or Headwear 12 they should require a massive quest of campaign-level, world- spanning heroics to obtain. There just aren’t a lot of items that everyday adventurers want, Footwear 14 that won’t break the bank so to speak, and are things that are actually useful. Everybody wears clothes (I don’t want to think about nude D&D), and everybody loves magic items for their Accessories 16 character.. Combining the two seemed like a good idea, but I didn’t want Special Orders 20 to go with just pants, shirts, etc. I scoured the internet for medieval period clothing, and narrowed down a list of items that were common across a wide range of times and places throughout Europe during the Middle Ages. Now, I did come Glossary 22 across some interesting clothing items that fell outside that range or geography, and a few are included here. None of the items presented here are gender specific. I intentionally left any mention of that out of each item. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth.