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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Replica Styles from 1795–1929
Replica Styles from 1795–1929 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing $2.00 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing Replica Styles from 1795–1929 Published by Lavender’s Green © 2010 Lavender’s Green January 2010 About Our Historic Clothing To our customers ... Lavender’s Green makes clothing for people who reenact the past. You will meet the public with confidence, knowing that you present an ac- curate picture of your historic era. If you volunteer at historic sites or participate in festivals, home tours, or other historic-based activities, you’ll find that the right clothing—comfortable, well made, and accu- rate in details—will add so much to the event. Use this catalog as a guide in planning your period clothing. For most time periods, we show a work dress, or “house dress.” These would have been worn for everyday by servants, shop girls, and farm wives across America. We also show at least one Sunday gown or “best” dress, which a middle-class woman would save for church, weddings, parties, photos, and special events. Throughout the catalog you will see drawings of hats and bonnets. Each one is individually designed and hand-made; please ask for a bid on a hat to wear with your new clothing. Although we do not show children’s clothing on most of these pages, we can design and make authentic clothing for your young people for any of these time periods. Generally, these prices will be 40% less than the similar adult styles. The prices given are for a semi-custom garment with a dressmaker- quality finish. -
The Bread-Winners
READWINN'^t' -\ ^^?^!lr^^ <^.li i^w LaXi Digitized by the Internet Arcinive in 2011 with funding from The Institute of Museum and Library Services through an Indiana State Library LSTA Grant http://www.archive.org/details/breadwinnerssociOOhayj THE BREAD-WINNERS 21 Social Sttttra NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE Ck)p7right, 1883, by The Century Company. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by HARPER & BROTHERS, In the Oflace of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washingtoa All righit teterved. THE BREAD-WINNEUS. A MORNING CALL. A French clock on the mantel-piece, framed of brass and crystal, wliicli betrayed its inner structure as tlie transparent sides of some insects betray tlieir vital processes, struck ten with the mellow and lingering clangor of a distant cathedral bell. A gentleman, who was seated in front of the lire read- ing a newspaper, looked up at the clock to see what hour it was, to save himself the trouble of counting the slow, musical strokes. The eyes he raised were light gray, with a blue glint of steel in them, shaded by lashes as black as jet. The hair was also as black as hair can be, and was parted near the middle of his forehead. It was inclined to curl, but had not the length required by this inclination. The dark brown mustache was the only ornament the razor had spared on the wholesome face, the outline of which was clear and keen. The face suited the hands—it had the refinement and gentle- ness of one delicately bred, and the vigorous lines and color of one equally at home in field and court; 6 THE BREAD-WINNERS. -
Sample Elementary Exam Paper 1
THE HERALDRY SOCIETY EXAMINATIONS BOARD ELEMENTARY EXAMINATION SPECIMEN PAPER 1 THREE HOURS ALLOWED INSTRUCTIONS TO CANDIDATES All questions carry equal marks Answer ALL THREE questions in Part A, and answer TWO of the three questions in Part B. A proportion of marks not exceeding 10% will be awarded for presentation of answers, in particular respecting legibility of writing and the clarity (not artistry) of illustrations. Part A 1. BLAZON the ten shields drawn and tricked on the attached sheet. 2.i DRAW and TRICK the following three shields -- a) Sable, on a Chevron between three griffins’ heads erased Or as many estoiles Gules. b) Argent, three spearheads in fess Gules, a chief Azure. c) Or crusilly Azure, a chevron counter-compony Argent and Sable. 2.ii DRAW and HATCH the following two examples -- d) Per saltire nebuly Ermine and Azure, five annulets in cross Or. e) Or two bendlets sinister Vert between in chief a lion’s face Azure and in base a fleur-de-lis Gules. THE HERALDRY SOCIETY EXAMINATIONS BOARD ELEMENTARY EXAMINATION SPECIMEN PAPER 1 (continued) 3. DRAW IN COLOUR the full achievement of Peter 6th Baron Carrington of Upton K.G. : -- Arms: Or, a chevron cotised between three demi-griffins the two in chief respectant Sable. Crest: An elephant’s head erased Or, eared Gules, charged on the neck with three fleurs-de-lis two and one Azure Supporters: Two griffins wings elevated Sable, the dexter charged with three fleurs-de-lis palewise Or, the sinister with three trefoils slipped palewise of the last Motto: TENAX IN FIDE PART B -- Answer only TWO of the following three questions (4, 5, 6) 4. -
How the Experience of Cyberspace Contributes to the Emerging Story of Self in Young People
Morph Constructing identity: how the experience of cyberspace contributes to the emerging story of self in young people. Jill Lesley Clough Thesis submitted towards the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the School of English Literature Language, and Linguistics Newcastle University April 2013 Awarded October 2013 Supervisors: Professor Linda Anderson, Professor Jackie Kay Abstract for Morph. Constructing identity: how the experience of cyberspace contributes to the emerging story of self in young people. This thesis develops from the belief that young people construct identities for themselves which inevitably surprise their parents, particularly where so much of their coming-of-age is influenced by hidden virtual experiences. The novel which explores this is Morph. Joey, the protagonist, is uneasy about her gender. She has a loving family, intelligence, a satisfying way of life, but loathes her body. She investigates alternative futures, initially online. Her closest friend also has a secret, revealed after a suicide attempt that Joey averts: sexual abuse by her father. Each has to discover how to live with the evolving sense of self. If Joey wishes to change gender her character may alter, too; she finds she can be violent when confronting the abusive father. The story is told through Joey’s eyes and activities in cyberspace, which she thinks of as a free place, parallel to the mountains over which she loves to run. She feels at ease in both places. Eventually she decides to live as both male and female (Other) because she does not have a ‘condition’ needing to be cured. Classification in the natural world allows for infinite variety, and she want similar opportunities for herself. -
Anne Lister's Use of and Contributions to British Romanticism
THE CLOSET ROMANTIC: ANNE LISTER’S USE OF AND CONTRIBUTIONS TO BRITISH ROMANTICISM ___________ A Thesis Presented to The Faculty of the Department English Sam Houston State University ___________ In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts ___________ by Michelina Olivieri May, 2021 THE CLOSET ROMANTIC: ANNE LISTER’S USE OF AND CONTRIBUTIONS TO BRITISH ROMANTICISM by Michelina Olivieri ___________ APPROVED: Kandi Tayebi, PhD Committee Director Audrey Murfin, PhD Committee Member Evelyn Soto, PhD Committee Member Chien-Pin Li, PhD Dean, College of Humanities and Social Sciences DEDICATION For Jasmine, who never gave up on me, even when I did. We made it. iii ABSTRACT Olivieri, Michelina, The closet romantic: Anne Lister’s use of and contributions to British romanticism. Master of Arts (English), May, 2021, Sam Houston State University, Huntsville, Texas. In this thesis, I explore Anne Lister as a Romantic writer. While much criticism has focused on Lister’s place in queer history, comparatively little has examined her writing itself. Thus, this thesis aims to place Lister’s writings within popular Romantic genres and in conversation with other Romantic writers. Chapter I is an introduction to Anne Lister and the scholarship that has surrounded her since the first collection of her diaries was published in the 1980s and establishes the arguments that will be made in each chapter. In Chapter II, I examine how Lister uses Romantic works and their writers to construct her own personal identity despite her lack of participation in either the written tradition or in the major social movements of the period during her lifetime. -
I's the Merb'y: Masculinity, Mermen and Contemporary Newfoundland
I’S THE MERB’Y Masculinity, Mermen and Contemporary Newfoundland [Received 22nd April 2018; accepted 29th July 2018 – DOI: 10.21463/shima.12.2.17] Philip Hayward University of Technology Sydney <[email protected]> Cory W. Thorne Memorial University of Newfoundland <[email protected]> ABSTRACT: In late 2017 initial, low-key publicity for a charity calendar featuring a range of bearded Newfoundlanders posing as mermen resulted in international media coverage that discussed and commended the non-stereotypical images produced for the project. This article situates the calendar’s imagery within the history of regional folklore concerning mermen and mermaids, the socio-cultural character of the island of Newfoundland and, in particular, the milieu of its port capital, St. John’s. Through these perspectives, the article analyses aspects of masculinity present in an island society that has experienced significant transitions in recent decades in relation to the decline of its fishery, the increasing work- related mobility of former fisherpeople, increasing ethnic diversity and immigration, and the breaking down of once strongly held attitudes of Newfoundland as being isolated, homogenous and tradition-based. In terms of Island Studies discourse, this has involved the island’s transition from being a relatively autonomous aquapelagic assemblage to an increasingly post-aquapelagic one firmly incorporated within a nation-state. Long viewed as a quintessential “folk setting”, Newfoundland is in a state of change that includes the gradual modification of regional stereotypes of masculinity. The revised images and roles presented in the calendar can be seen to represent new, more fluid definitions of masculinity appropriate for an increasingly more cosmopolitan — yet proudly unique — island society. -
Catalogue Vintage Clothing Steve Graham
Steve Graham Phone 0354274595 http://www.stevegrahamauctioneer.com P.O. Box 40 Mount Macedon Vic 3441 Catalogue Vintage Clothing Sunday 25 Oct 2015 Starting at: 10:00 AM To be held at our Auction Rooms: 64 Urquhart Street Woodend Inspection: Friday & Saturday 1pm-5pm Sunday from 8.30am Terms: Cash Eftpos C/card 15% Buyers Premium Lot Lot 1 2 Boxes of Material 30 5 Assorted Ladies Hats & Pr of Shoes 2 2 Boxes of Material 31 Qty of Ladies Hats 3 Box of Ladies Shoes & Boots 32 Levi's, Beutron & Wool signs 4 Art Deco Light Fittings 33 Qty Ladies Hats 5 2 Boxes of Material 34 8 Vintage Display Stands 6 Vintage Suitcase with Old Hats, Sewing 35 large plush velvet fringed cloth/spread Books, Patterns etc 36 Timber 'Open' Sign 7 Suitcase of remnants & fabric 37 Large Koala 8 Box of Mens Sweaters & Jumpers inc Sportscraft 38 Vintage Suitcase 9 2 Boxes of Ladies Vintage Belts 39 Childs display bust 10 1950's Spencer's 40 Large Koala 11 Box of Handbags inc evening 41 Globite Vintage Suitcase 12 Box of Ladies Gloves inc Leather & Suede 42 large plush velvet fringed cloth/spread 13 Box of 1950's millinery netting 43 1930's Novalty Printed Day Dress w/ Beach Cape 14 2 Boxes of Hats & Caps, Silk Scarves 44 1950's Overcoat with Fur Collar 15 Box of 60's - 80's shoes 45 2 x Jackets & 2 Cardigans c1950's inc 16 Box of vintage remnants 1930's - 1960's L'afficiel 17 Box of Chrome Hat Stands 46 1950's Black Jacket with fur collar 18 2 Boxes of men's leather & assorted belts 47 1930's Silk Evening Gown - Burgundy 19 Box of Linen, Lace, Materials 48 1930's -
Historic Costuming Presented by Jill Harrison
Historic Southern Indiana Interpretation Workshop, March 2-4, 1998 Historic Costuming Presented By Jill Harrison IMPRESSIONS Each of us makes an impression before ever saying a word. We size up visitors all the time, anticipating behavior from their age, clothing, and demeanor. What do they think of interpreters, disguised as we are in the threads of another time? While stressing the importance of historically accurate costuming (outfits) and accoutrements for first- person interpreters, there are many reasons compromises are made - perhaps a tight budget or lack of skilled construction personnel. Items such as shoes and eyeglasses are usually a sticking point when assembling a truly accurate outfit. It has been suggested that when visitors spot inaccurate details, interpreter credibility is downgraded and visitors launch into a frame of mind to find other inaccuracies. This may be true of visitors who are historical reenactors, buffs, or other interpreters. Most visitors, though, lack the heightened awareness to recognize the difference between authentic period detailing and the less-than-perfect substitutions. But everyone will notice a wristwatch, sunglasses, or tennis shoes. We have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past; otherwise we are not preserving history but instead creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Realistically, the appearance of the interpreter, our information base, our techniques, and our environment all affect the first-person experience. Historically accurate costuming perfection is laudable and reinforces academic credence. The minute details can be a springboard to important educational concepts; but the outfit is not the linchpin on which successful interpretation hangs. -
THE I-STUBBLEPRO TOOL TIPS Ultimate Precision Shorter Beard & Designer Stubble Trimmer
THE i-STUBBLEPRO TOOL TIPS ultimate precision shorter beard & designer stubble trimmer. VSM7896A HEY YOU! TAKE A BOW FINE SIR. THINGS ARE LOOKING UP & YOU’VE JUST MADE A QUALITY PURCHASE WITH THIS NEW GROOMING TOOL. WE KNOW YOU’VE GOT THIS, BUT BEFORE YOU JUMP INTO USING YOUR NEW SIDE KICK, HERE’S A FEW TIPS & TRICKS TO KNOW BEFORE LETTING YOUR CREATIVITY RUN LOOSE. HIT UP VSFORMEN.COM.AU FOR MORE GROOMING & INSPIRATION OR FOLLOW US ONLINE 2 THE i-STUBBLE PRO / TOOL TIPS 3 THE i-STUBBLE PRO / TOOL TIPS IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS - This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. - Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance. - This appliance is only to be used with the power supply unit provided with the appliance. - This appliance must only be supplied at safety extra low voltage corresponding to the marking on the appliance. When using electrical appliances, especially when children are present, basic safety instructions should always be followed, including the following: Polythene bags over product or package may be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this wrapper away from babies and children. This bag is not a toy. DANGER: When the unit is used in a bathroom, unplug it after use since the proximity of water presents a hazard even when the appliance is switched off WARNING: Do not use or leave the AC power adaptor in a position where it can become wet or there is a danger of it falling into a basin or other vessels containing water. -
Women's Collection by Dorfman Pacific | Winter 2020
WOMEN’S COLLECTION BY DORFMAN PACIFIC | WINTER 2020 CALLANAN™ | AEGEAN | SCALA™ | SCALA™ KIDS | DPC® | FALL/WINTER 2020 For so long, people thought Dorfman was about selling hats. But really, we’re about our hat community. You see a hat is just an accessory, but our millinery community is fostered by the artisans that hand make our hats, local shops that display our creations, and our customers’ stories who wear them with distinction. This is coupled with our relentless commitment to service instilled by our founder, Jack Dorfman. Fashion trends are in a constant state of motion, but happy retail partners and valued customers are a constant for us. RIVERSIDE • LW749-ASST • PG 65 THE TREK • MC146 • MEN’S FW20 PG 78 An American Headwear Company Since 1921. Page 2 HANDMADE SINCE 1921 CONTENTS CALLANAN™ WOOL FELT ........................................................................... 6 WOOL BLEND ........................................................................ 8 HEADBANDS ......................................................................... 22 WEATHERED COTTON ........................................................ 24 BOILED WOOL ...................................................................... 24 SCALA™ WOOL FELT CLOCHE ........................................................... 31 WOOL FELT WESTERN ......................................................... 38 WOOL FELT SAFARI .............................................................. 38 WOOL FELT BOATER ........................................................... -
A Critical Study of Transsexual Transition in a Familial Context
1 Straddling the scalpel of identity: a critical study of transsexual transition in a familial context Claire Elizabeth Jenkins Doctor of Philosophy Sociological Studies December 2012 2 Acknowledgements Many have helped me. Firstly I would like to thank my immediate family, my ex-wife and my four children, for sharing in my transition which was the genesis of this research. I very much appreciate the invaluable help given by Dr Emily Gray in formulating my original research proposal. Perlin Dobson and David Jackson, my dear friends, have consistently supported me through transition to submission. David read many of my drafts and gave me critical feedback. Perlin gave emotional support when times were difficult. I am very appreciative of the invaluable advice and support given by Kevin Mahoney of Sheffield University Careers Service. These friends together with Nirmal Fernando, David Jones, Professor Stephen Whittle, Dr Roshan das Nair, Jayne Tulip and Imogen Hale were especially helpful when I experienced a major setback. They helped me to re-continue afterwards. I would also like to more formally thank my supervisors, Dr Victoria Robinson, Dr Lorna Warren and Professor Jenny Hockey, who taught me much about sociological writing and thought and who gave extensive critical feedback. Dr Warren has especially helped me regain academic confidence during 2012. I am also grateful for the informed critiques received from Professor Ruth McDonald, Professor Brendan Gough and David Miers. I am especially grateful to Brenda Stephenson and Dawn Montiel for the proof reading early drafts. I would also like to thank Duncan Macmillan House Staff Library and Nottingham Trent University Library Staff for supporting me locally through book acquisition, loans and for obtaining journal articles.