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Home , Aegean islands

CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS vi

1 THE BEST OF THE GREEK 1

1 The Best of Ancient ...... 1 6 The Best Museums...... 7 2 The Best of Byzantine & 7 The Best Resorts & Hotels ...... 7 Medieval Greece...... 4 8 The Best Restaurants ...... 8 3 The Best Beaches ...... 4 9 The Best Nightlife ...... 9 4 The Best Islands ...... 5 10 The Best Shopping...... 10 5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All...... 6

2 GREEK ISLANDS IN DEPTH 12

1 Greece Today ...... 13 4 The Gods & Goddesses...... 23 2 Looking Back at Greece ...... 14 5 The Lay of the Land ...... 25 Dateline...... 14 6 Eating & Drinking in Greece ...... 25 3 Greece’s Art & Architecture...... 22

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE GREEK ISLANDS 30

1 When to Go...... 30 5 Health ...... 50 Greece on the Web ...... 31 6 Safety ...... 52 Greece Calendar of Events ...... 32 7 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 54 2 Entry Requirements ...... 36 8 Sustainable Tourism...... 59 3 GettingCOPYRIGHTED There & Getting 9 Special-Interest MATERIAL Trips & Around ...... 38 Escorted Tours ...... 60 Taxi Tips...... 44 10 Staying Connected...... 65 4 Money & Costs...... 47 11 Tips on Accommodations ...... 68 What Things Cost in Greece...... 50 12 Fast Facts: Greece ...... 69 iv 4 SUGGESTED GREEK ISLAND ITINERARIES 75

1 The Greek Islands in 1 Week...... 76 4 In the Footsteps of the 2 The Greek Islands in 2 Weeks ...... 78 Apostle Paul ...... 84 3 The Greek Islands with a Family . . .82

5 CRUISING THE GREEK ISLANDS 87

1 Choosing the Right Cruise 7 Large & Midsize Ships ...... 98 for You...... 87 8 Small & Yachtlike Ships ...... 112 2 Calculating the Cost ...... 89 Booking Your Private 3 Booking Your Cruise...... 90 Yacht Charter ...... 118 4 Cruise Preparation Practicalities . . .93 9 Best Shore Excursions 5 Embarkation ...... 95 in Greece ...... 121 Dealing with Seasickness ...... 96 10 Best Shore Excursions in ...... 125 6 End-of-Cruise Procedures ...... 97

6 ATHENS 127

1 Orientation ...... 128 A Day Trip to the Temple of 2 Getting Around ...... 135 Poseidon at Sounion...... 185 Fast Facts: Athens ...... 138 7 Organized Tours...... 186 CONTENTS 3 ISLANDS GREEK Where to Stay...... 142 8 Shopping ...... 187 4 Where to Dine ...... 156 9 Athens After Dark ...... 188 Quick Bites in Syntagma ...... 167 10 Piraeus: A Jumping-Off Point to the Islands ...... 195 5 The Top Attractions ...... 172 6 Ancient Monuments ...... 184

7 THE SARONIC GULF ISLANDS 201

1 ...... 202 3 (Idra) ...... 212 2 ...... 208 4 ...... 217

8 222

1 Iraklion (Heraklion) ...... 225 3 Rethymnon (Rethimno) ...... 250 2 Chania (Hania/Xania/Canea) . . . . 239 4 Ayios Nikolaos ...... 258 v 9 THE 265

1 (Thira) ...... 268 5 ...... 309 2 ...... 285 6 (Mikonos) ...... 321 3 ...... 288 7 ...... 341 4 ...... 296 8 ...... 344 The Cave of Andiparos ...... 302 9 Siros () ...... 353

10 THE 360

1 (Rodos) ...... 362 3 ...... 387

2 Simi ()...... 382 4 ...... 397 GREEK ISLANDS Local Industries ...... 385

11 THE NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS 408

1 ...... 409 3 Lesvos (Mitilini) ...... 427 2 Hios () ...... 420

12 THE 436 CONTENTS

1 ...... 436 3 (Skiros)...... 454 2 ...... 447 The Famous Carnival of Skyros. . . . .457

13 THE 462

1 Corfu (Kerkira)...... 464 2 Kefalonia (Cephalonia) ...... 477

14 THE 486

1 Making Your Way in Greek...... 486 2 Useful Words & Phrases ...... 488

INDEX 492

General Index ...... 492 Accommodations Index...... 502 LIST OF MAPS

Greece ...... 2 Rethymnon ...... 251 Greek Ferry Routes ...... 43 Ayios Nikolaos ...... 259 The Greek Islands in 1 Week ...... 77 The Cyclades ...... 267 The Greek Islands in 2 Weeks . . . . . 79 Santorini ...... 269 The Greek Islands with a Family . . . 83 Delos ...... 343 In the Footsteps of the The Dodecanese ...... 361 Apostle Paul ...... 85 Rhodes Attractions ...... 363 Athens Accommodations ...... 144 Rhodes Accommodations & Accommodations & Dining Dining ...... 371 South of the Acropolis ...... 154 The Northeastern Aegean Athens Dining ...... 158 Islands ...... 411 Athens Attractions ...... 174 Vathi ...... 413 Piraeus ...... 197 The Sporades ...... 437 The Saronic Gulf Islands ...... 203 The Ionian Islands ...... 463 Crete ...... 223 Corfu Town ...... 465 Iraklion ...... 227 Kefalonia & Ithaka ...... 479 Chania ...... 241